Dear Mr Panzer,the little brackets on the bottom of the bays(bottom of car you called hatches) are to mount a vibrating tool. It makes the contents of car,corn,oats ect. fall out of hatches when they get stuck,whether from wetness or freezing,ect. the cars are lined with a special coating and cannot be scratched.in the old days they would beat on the car with (BFHs)BIG HAMMERS. The stencil above bracket tells you info about this. Also there are stencils on cars telling what kind of shoe sole to wear inside car. The roof hatches on top of car are almost all made of fiberglass so they dont rust,and the latches and hinges on them are made of stainless or galvanized metal,so they "white rust" The running boards now days are made of galvanized metal. I worked on a RIP track for a long time.(RIP= Repair In Place) (or Cripple Track) Great job on your weathering and models, I watch them all!
I really enjoyed this video. Very informative and helpful. As I am also an armor modeler, I have also enjoyed your armor modeling videos. Thank you for sharing this video. Larry
I always look forward to these weathering videos. The car looks incredible. I know the brush chipping must have taken some time but the results are worth it. Thanks for the techniques, they really help. All the best - John
Apologies for the lighting being a little poor at some points in this video. Parts of this were filmed at a temporary bench setup while I was moving to a new house. Another of my covered hopper weathering videos can be found here: ruclips.net/video/x_S6XFcLJUI/видео.html
Awesome work you did. I hope to one day be able to weather as good as you do. Wish me luck as I'm going to get my hands wet and try to weather some old cars.
Fantastic. I love the simplicity of your techniques, they really look convincing. It gives confidence for those of us (like me) who are new to weathering to give it a go.
Wow. What a transformation. Incredible work. I don’t watch your tank videos but I can see why you’re so popular. Great video editing and explanation of each step. You must have quite the collection of paints and small tools. Excellent results.
Thank you Mark! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Yes, I have accumulated a lot of paints and products over the years but honestly most of them aren't required and they collect dust on my bench.
Nice job Panzermeister and these particular Ribbed Hoppers are my favorite to weather! I think mainly bcuz my flat brushes fit perfectly in those panels when doing the rust effects! Thanks again for sharing your videos along with your time and effort! Enjoying your videos back here in Delmar, Delaware.
Fantastic video! Love your techniques! I can’t wait to get harvest done and get back to the workbench and borrow your ways to weather. Thanks for making model RR weathering videos.
Very cool procedure! Such train cars are ideal for heavy weathering effects, since these things literally sit in the open for years and see heavy use, unlike tanks, which do not really last long enough to show such extreme weathering effects.
Thank you Michael! Yes, these subjects really let me go freely with the weathering. Maybe I should do a wrecked tank too...sitting out for 50 years in the Golan Heights or something.
Amazing work!! You have given me the motivation to weather again, I love the peavey logo fading technique with the micro sol and blade, will definitely try it myself on some CNW cars I have on my NS layout.
While I do really like your military stuff I don't appreciate the MRR too. Your work has a big following on the (now old) MRH forum Thanks for all the vids!
With the angles and all the lights on my workbench, yes you can see that blur somewhat. But on my model railroad you don't notice it. I will keep that in mind for next time...thank you!
Me too, I do understand. So but my solution is to just collect freight cars, in sales mostly, weather them up and place them into little dioramas that can go on shelves or into bookcases. Many hours of fun can be had for little money. Its maybe not for everyone, but it scratches my itch..
My setup is very small! 2.5 by 9 feet shelf layout. It's still a work in progress but I'll likely do some scenery videos on it too when I get to that point.
I just pre ordered the das werk stug 3 in 1/16 scale it was only a little more them a dragon kit cheaper then the good ones now days can't wait to get it you should do a video on one once they come in
I may do a video on it, however I already have a lot of projects in the works and I am more interested in 1/35 scale. The Das Werk kit is just the Takom Blitz kit upscale anyways, so I've already built it in 1/35.
Very nice. I watched this one months ago but saw it shared on a website so I figured I’d watch again since I finally broke out my weathering tools after a year long hiatus. Care to do a SOO line or Family Lines car next? I have a ton of those to do thanks to the recent Tangent release!
I actually did a Tangent SOO hopper for a client a few months ago, but I didn't film it. I have some photos though. Next hoppers I have are grey trinitys, so the weathering techniques are the same as they would be on a grey or beige 4750.
I am definitely going to try some of this on my Tiger 1 tracks and lower hull. I really like the idea of using just an airbrush for weathering. Maybe you could do a video of experimenting with air brush weathering ?
All those mixes are an approximation to give the viewers a starting point for their own mixes. Each paint itself isn't the same consistency so it might require a little more or less thinning for example.
I have never weathered a car before so this was very educational. I started to Model O scale, can you give me a list of what I need to purchase to start?
Luckily RUclips helps me keep track of new comments on old videos! The wheel tread is essentially half-masked as you said, and that is purely a result of the angle I spray paint on them. First I spray the wheel face directly face-on, so no paint gets on the tread. Then, I spray the rear face and axle. I do this at about a 60° angle so the lip of the wheel will mask about half of the tread closest to it. The other outer half is not blanketed from the spray angle so it gets painted. (I actually paint the rear face and axle by sticking the bearing end of the axle straight down into my paper towel I use to catch overspray, and then I hold the other bearing end in the tip of my left index finger -- almost like I'm balancing a top. Then I spray downwards and spin the axle with my left thumb. This spins the wheel so I get all of the rear face and axle, and the angle is about the 60 degrees I explained. I have to then flip the wheel around and do the same for the other rear face of the opposite wheel). It's kind of a happy accident sort of thing I figured out. Hopefully my explanation makes sense!
Hello Evan, thanks (yet again) for such an in-depth tutorial. I find all of your tutorials immensely useful and enlightening. And very well structured and produced. I hope your move is going well. It can be pretty stressy, right? I also hope you are considering to pick up the big Das Werk Stug III which should be available in about 2 or 3 months time. You are the first person I thought about when I heard about it. I know you are a massive Stug III fan and can only imagine what you would make out of that kit :-) All the best and take care.
Move is all finished now! Yes it was a little stressful and I did lose the decals for a current project. Hopefully I can find them soon... As for the DW StuG, I am not sure. It will require a lot of work and aftermarket. I may wait for the [Trumpeter] 1/16 StuG release that should be out soon after DW's kit.
Before the fading, I would mask some of the labels and instructions, as those are usualy kept clean or even replaced from time to time. I have seen many cars like that dirty af but clean rectangles around the labels and warning/instructions signs. Also putting on some graffiti would be cool :D
Nope, I use Tamiya paints which are very durable. These are alcohol-based acrylics and they are as strong as the dullcote itself. So with Tamiya there is no need to seal it down. Now, if you're using water-based acrylic paints like Vallejo or Mig Ammo or anything similar, then you should seal them with a varnish like dullcote.
I did not choose it, it was given to me. I had a Paasche airbrush before but I like the 105 much better. It's super reliable and I can get some excellent camouflage out of it. As for a compressor, well I still have a super basic one. Would recommend getting a proper one.
I airbrushed them with a mix of Tamiya XF-68 and XF-72. I have shown that in my other model railway weathering videos...the gondola one should be helpful for you.
I just tear off a little chunk. Sometimes it's easier to hold it in tweezers. Make sure you unload most of the paint out of the sponge before you apply it!
Could you explain how you got the shiny worn truck wheel segment where the wheel runs on the tracks? Was that just some tape on the original wheel before the weathering airbrush coat?
I just painted the wheel surface, the rear of the wheel, and axle with the airbrush. The edges didn't get directly painted, and they should be shiny anyways.
@@Panzermeister36 Ok, look at 00:39 seconds and I see a rusted outer segment of the wheel edge and a shiny inner segment which is where the wheel runs on the rails. I assumed you taped the inner edge segment to keep it shiny when you painted the wheel, right?
In my previous covered hopper weathering video (on the MILW one) I showed painting the wheels and trucks in greater detail. That should show you my technique.
Do you think there is a possibility of you using only acrylics for airbrushing a model sometime? i dont mean tamiya acrylic i mean more like vallejo and mig / ak acrylic colors? would be interesting to see how you use them for airbrushing!
Honestly, probably not. Vallejo airbrushes very poorly compared to others on the market and I would struggle to get good results (I'm not the most skilled airbrusher and I've built up a lot of experience with Tamiya). I'm not interested in making a video on something that would be awkward and not enjoyable to me. Now I very well might try using acrylic washes more in the future rather than oils/enamel washes if that's more what you're thinking about. If Vallejo/Ammo are the acrylics you like to use, you should be able to use them the same way I used Tamiya acrylics in my videos. You can find colour conversion charts online to find equivalent colours to what I use.
@@Panzermeister36 oh okay understandable! i have gotten used to vallejo for airbrushing and it actually works quite nicely but not as durable as tamiya tho. Thanks for the great answer!
Yeah, for some people it works and for others it's a struggle. Others say the same about the paints I use :) It's all just personal preferences and touch, plus how your airbrush handles paint. If it works for you then you can use it in place of my work with Tamiya.
I tried the starship filth and applied it the same way and it did not by any means look like what you did with it. It dried immediately and left a deep blackened stain and would not come off at all
Did you apply it over a matte varnish or something? Oil paint should not dry immediately -- the whole point of it is that it has a much longer working (drying) time than acrylic paints.
If the dullcote was applied before the oils, then that will be the issue. You can't blend the oils over such a matte/rough finish. I only applied a matte varnish at the end of the weathering process in the video for this reason. I'm sorry for not making that clear in the video.
Yeah, it's all the same effects in the end. Chipping, scrapes, dirt, grime...I use a lot of same techniques and products across both scales, I just try to keep it finer on the 1/87 so it doesn't look out of scale.
When are you picking your tau army and give them this treatment! There are a lot of people that see you and Night Swift videos because they of weathering technics...
My Tau army was painted long ago when I was in high school, but I did buy some more Warhammer recently to weather in videos ;) some time this year I'll make a video.
Car looks like a filthy rolling rust bucket. Great job!
No exaggeration, you're the Michaelangelo of weathering. 💯+
Wow, thank you!
It's amazing how this went from looking like a cheap toy to a highly detailed and realistic model simply because of the weathering. Fantastic job.
Thank you! I appreciate the comments you've posted on my channel recently. Take care :) glad you're enjoying my work.
Dear Mr Panzer,the little brackets on the bottom of the bays(bottom of car you called hatches) are to mount a vibrating tool. It makes the contents of car,corn,oats ect. fall out of hatches when they get stuck,whether from wetness or freezing,ect. the cars are lined with a special coating and cannot be scratched.in the old days they would beat on the car with (BFHs)BIG HAMMERS. The stencil above bracket tells you info about this. Also there are stencils on cars telling what kind of shoe sole to wear inside car. The roof hatches on top of car are almost all made of fiberglass so they dont rust,and the latches and hinges on them are made of stainless or galvanized metal,so they "white rust" The running boards now days are made of galvanized metal. I worked on a RIP track for a long time.(RIP= Repair In Place) (or Cripple Track) Great job on your weathering and models, I watch them all!
I really enjoyed this video. Very informative and helpful. As I am also an armor modeler, I have also enjoyed your armor modeling videos.
Thank you for sharing this video.
Larry
Cheers Larry!
A cool and refreshing subject!
Thank you VMS!
*Very nice weathering step by step video, this is not a toy anymore!*
Thank you very much!
Excellent weathering!
I always look forward to these weathering videos. The car looks incredible. I know the brush chipping must have taken some time but the results are worth it. Thanks for the techniques, they really help. All the best - John
Thank you John! Glad to hear from you. I've enjoyed your videos too; modern era switching layouts are my interest point in model railroading.
Apologies for the lighting being a little poor at some points in this video. Parts of this were filmed at a temporary bench setup while I was moving to a new house.
Another of my covered hopper weathering videos can be found here: ruclips.net/video/x_S6XFcLJUI/видео.html
Awesome work you did. I hope to one day be able to weather as good as you do. Wish me luck as I'm going to get my hands wet and try to weather some old cars.
Brush chipping streaks look great. Worth the time spent 👍
Very effective weathering - love the techniques. The car came out looking great - well done! Best, John
Thank you John!
Fantastic. I love the simplicity of your techniques, they really look convincing. It gives confidence for those of us (like me) who are new to weathering to give it a go.
Dude, was wondering what happened to you. You got me back into models after 30+ years.
I'm still around! I was moving and starting a new job. More videos to come soon...
Wish we could post pics... I would love to share what you and a few other have inspired...
You can send me an email with your work! I'd love to see it :)
Panzermeister36@gmail.com
Great job! Thx for the step by step!
Wow. What a transformation. Incredible work. I don’t watch your tank videos but I can see why you’re so popular. Great video editing and explanation of each step. You must have quite the collection of paints and small tools. Excellent results.
Thank you Mark! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Yes, I have accumulated a lot of paints and products over the years but honestly most of them aren't required and they collect dust on my bench.
Well done. Another excellent railroad weathering tutorial. Thank you.,
Thank you!
Nice job Panzermeister and these particular Ribbed Hoppers are my favorite to weather! I think mainly bcuz my flat brushes fit perfectly in those panels when doing the rust effects! Thanks again for sharing your videos along with your time and effort! Enjoying your videos back here in Delmar, Delaware.
The car turned out real nice. You do such great work that I wish you'd upload a few more times a year.
Thank you. I'll try to feature more model railroading equipment in the future!
Fantastic video! Love your techniques! I can’t wait to get harvest done and get back to the workbench and borrow your ways to weather. Thanks for making model RR weathering videos.
Thank you! Take care :)
Very cool procedure! Such train cars are ideal for heavy weathering effects, since these things literally sit in the open for years and see heavy use, unlike tanks, which do not really last long enough to show such extreme weathering effects.
Thank you Michael! Yes, these subjects really let me go freely with the weathering. Maybe I should do a wrecked tank too...sitting out for 50 years in the Golan Heights or something.
Informative and entertaining as usual. Love your airbrush weathering - I will try it out on my next project. 😉
Amazing work!! You have given me the motivation to weather again, I love the peavey logo fading technique with the micro sol and blade, will definitely try it myself on some CNW cars I have on my NS layout.
Another great job Evan!
Thank you!
Thank you for the video regarding ho stuff. Much appreciated.
Wunderbar ,einfach nur wunderschön !!
Really really enjoy these videos man
Cheers
This is a great video thank you for sharing.
Thank you!
Cool weathering
While I do really like your military stuff I don't appreciate the MRR too. Your work has a big following on the (now old) MRH forum Thanks for all the vids!
I'm glad to hear that! I didn't know I was popular on that forum. I will have to take a look :)
Enjoy your tutorials, well explained with excellent video (even if the lighting was a bit messed up at times, lol 😉). Keep up the great work!
Thank you! 😊
Amazing work! I wish I had your patience and skill lol, thank you for the awesome videos!
Thank you :) You can do it!
What a beauty!
Cheers :)
Many thanks!
Your covered hopper looks very blue today.
Looks great! My only suggestion is you should weather underneath the walkways also. You can still see the bright blue
With the angles and all the lights on my workbench, yes you can see that blur somewhat. But on my model railroad you don't notice it. I will keep that in mind for next time...thank you!
Nice work dude
Nice techniques. Pretty similar to armor that you usually do. I wished I had room for an HO set up.
Me too, I do understand. So but my solution is to just collect freight cars, in sales mostly, weather them up and place them into little dioramas that can go on shelves or into bookcases. Many hours of fun can be had for little money. Its maybe not for everyone, but it scratches my itch..
My setup is very small! 2.5 by 9 feet shelf layout. It's still a work in progress but I'll likely do some scenery videos on it too when I get to that point.
I just pre ordered the das werk stug 3 in 1/16 scale it was only a little more them a dragon kit cheaper then the good ones now days can't wait to get it you should do a video on one once they come in
I may do a video on it, however I already have a lot of projects in the works and I am more interested in 1/35 scale. The Das Werk kit is just the Takom Blitz kit upscale anyways, so I've already built it in 1/35.
Very nice. I watched this one months ago but saw it shared on a website so I figured I’d watch again since I finally broke out my weathering tools after a year long hiatus. Care to do a SOO line or Family Lines car next? I have a ton of those to do thanks to the recent Tangent release!
I actually did a Tangent SOO hopper for a client a few months ago, but I didn't film it. I have some photos though. Next hoppers I have are grey trinitys, so the weathering techniques are the same as they would be on a grey or beige 4750.
I am definitely going to try some of this on my Tiger 1 tracks and lower hull. I really like the idea of using just an airbrush for weathering. Maybe you could do a video of experimenting with air brush weathering ?
I've been thinking about trying more airbrushed weathering after seeing Night Shift and his preweathering techniques. I'll give it a shot soon.
You have one heck of a talent and thank you for sharing. How do you get your percentages for the paints measured out?
All those mixes are an approximation to give the viewers a starting point for their own mixes. Each paint itself isn't the same consistency so it might require a little more or less thinning for example.
I have never weathered a car before so this was very educational. I started to
Model O scale, can you give me a list of what I need to purchase to start?
Hey late viewer here lol. In case I missed it, I noticed your wheels are masked half the wheel tread?
Cool care to explain that nice touch.
_ Alex
Luckily RUclips helps me keep track of new comments on old videos!
The wheel tread is essentially half-masked as you said, and that is purely a result of the angle I spray paint on them. First I spray the wheel face directly face-on, so no paint gets on the tread. Then, I spray the rear face and axle. I do this at about a 60° angle so the lip of the wheel will mask about half of the tread closest to it. The other outer half is not blanketed from the spray angle so it gets painted.
(I actually paint the rear face and axle by sticking the bearing end of the axle straight down into my paper towel I use to catch overspray, and then I hold the other bearing end in the tip of my left index finger -- almost like I'm balancing a top. Then I spray downwards and spin the axle with my left thumb. This spins the wheel so I get all of the rear face and axle, and the angle is about the 60 degrees I explained. I have to then flip the wheel around and do the same for the other rear face of the opposite wheel).
It's kind of a happy accident sort of thing I figured out. Hopefully my explanation makes sense!
Hello Evan, thanks (yet again) for such an in-depth tutorial. I find all of your tutorials immensely useful and enlightening. And very well structured and produced.
I hope your move is going well. It can be pretty stressy, right?
I also hope you are considering to pick up the big Das Werk Stug III which should be available in about 2 or 3 months time. You are the first person I thought about when I heard about it. I know you are a massive Stug III fan and can only imagine what you would make out of that kit :-)
All the best and take care.
Move is all finished now! Yes it was a little stressful and I did lose the decals for a current project. Hopefully I can find them soon...
As for the DW StuG, I am not sure. It will require a lot of work and aftermarket. I may wait for the [Trumpeter] 1/16 StuG release that should be out soon after DW's kit.
@@Panzermeister36 Great!! Also, I did not know about the Trumpeter version, thanks for the heads up!!
Before the fading, I would mask some of the labels and instructions, as those are usualy kept clean or even replaced from time to time. I have seen many cars like that dirty af but clean rectangles around the labels and warning/instructions signs. Also putting on some graffiti would be cool :D
Thank you! I usually would apply some graffiti but my references for these CEFX ex-PVGX cars showed no tagging at all.
@@Panzermeister36 it looks great sir good work
What compressor do you use?
Hi Did you seal the acrylic with dull coat or anything before using the oils and thinners? great work!
Nope, I use Tamiya paints which are very durable. These are alcohol-based acrylics and they are as strong as the dullcote itself. So with Tamiya there is no need to seal it down.
Now, if you're using water-based acrylic paints like Vallejo or Mig Ammo or anything similar, then you should seal them with a varnish like dullcote.
Why did you choose the Badger 105 Patriot airbrush and what air compressor do you prefer?
I did not choose it, it was given to me. I had a Paasche airbrush before but I like the 105 much better. It's super reliable and I can get some excellent camouflage out of it.
As for a compressor, well I still have a super basic one. Would recommend getting a proper one.
How did you weather the coupler and the wheels? Would love to see a video on that - the coupler specially looks great.
I airbrushed them with a mix of Tamiya XF-68 and XF-72. I have shown that in my other model railway weathering videos...the gondola one should be helpful for you.
@@Panzermeister36 thanks for the reply! Recently discovered your channel and love it so far.
I know it's been awhile since you did this video but do you happen to know what size/type that brush is for the brush chipping? Looks pretty small
It's a 10/0 round spotter brush, Royal & Langnickel Zen73 series
Another awesome video. What are the sponges that you are using and where do you get them?
Thanks Mike! That is just generic foam packing sponge. Much like the foam in an Athearn Genesis box.
@@Panzermeister36 oh no way! I definitely have that around! Thanks!
I just tear off a little chunk. Sometimes it's easier to hold it in tweezers. Make sure you unload most of the paint out of the sponge before you apply it!
Where did you find you reference photos that you used as a guide for this car?
RR Pictures Archive website
Dude more weathers trains please!
I will make sure I do!
Hi were r u from ? Country! And your work is amazing! Do you do other people’s cars and stuff?
Hello Ken. I live in Canada. I do occasionally do commission work. You can contact me at Panzermeister36@gmail.com
Could you explain how you got the shiny worn truck wheel segment where the wheel runs on the tracks? Was that just some tape on the original wheel before the weathering airbrush coat?
I just painted the wheel surface, the rear of the wheel, and axle with the airbrush. The edges didn't get directly painted, and they should be shiny anyways.
@@Panzermeister36 Ok, look at 00:39 seconds and I see a rusted outer segment of the wheel edge and a shiny inner segment which is where the wheel runs on the rails. I assumed you taped the inner edge segment to keep it shiny when you painted the wheel, right?
Nope, no tape. That's just how the overspray must have formed when I sprayed the rear face of the wheels and the axle.
@@Panzermeister36 Cool! Looks really nice!
In my previous covered hopper weathering video (on the MILW one) I showed painting the wheels and trucks in greater detail. That should show you my technique.
That’s a weird looking tank
Jeez… are there any models that you don’t use XF-18 on? 😂😂😂
Looks amazing!
I'm sure the colour of this railcar would make Mig happy if it were on a Panzer :)
@@Panzermeister36 😂😂😂
Do you think there is a possibility of you using only acrylics for airbrushing a model sometime? i dont mean tamiya acrylic i mean more like vallejo and mig / ak acrylic colors? would be interesting to see how you use them for airbrushing!
Honestly, probably not. Vallejo airbrushes very poorly compared to others on the market and I would struggle to get good results (I'm not the most skilled airbrusher and I've built up a lot of experience with Tamiya). I'm not interested in making a video on something that would be awkward and not enjoyable to me.
Now I very well might try using acrylic washes more in the future rather than oils/enamel washes if that's more what you're thinking about.
If Vallejo/Ammo are the acrylics you like to use, you should be able to use them the same way I used Tamiya acrylics in my videos. You can find colour conversion charts online to find equivalent colours to what I use.
@@Panzermeister36 oh okay understandable! i have gotten used to vallejo for airbrushing and it actually works quite nicely but not as durable as tamiya tho. Thanks for the great answer!
Yeah, for some people it works and for others it's a struggle. Others say the same about the paints I use :)
It's all just personal preferences and touch, plus how your airbrush handles paint. If it works for you then you can use it in place of my work with Tamiya.
Nicely weathered HO scale thingy Panzermeister... and now get back to 1/35 AFV please 😅 (my apologies to all you train fans)
Yes, we're back to AFVs this week :)
Have you ordered the 1/16th Stug III?
I have not. Still pondering it. That kit requires a lot of work and I'll double its cost in aftermarket corrections...
@@Panzermeister36 Some Australian lads are already making 3D aftermarket option parts. Seen them after searching the kit on YT.
Yeah I'm helping some aftermarket companies with some details and corrections for this kit :)
Where's the graffiti? Lol. Looks good.
Thank you! I would usually add some, but my references for this railcar showed no tagging :)
I tried the starship filth and applied it the same way and it did not by any means look like what you did with it. It dried immediately and left a deep blackened stain and would not come off at all
Did you apply it over a matte varnish or something? Oil paint should not dry immediately -- the whole point of it is that it has a much longer working (drying) time than acrylic paints.
@@Panzermeister36 I actually laid it exactly how you did except I did spray a layer of dullcote before air brushing a fade coat
If the dullcote was applied before the oils, then that will be the issue. You can't blend the oils over such a matte/rough finish. I only applied a matte varnish at the end of the weathering process in the video for this reason. I'm sorry for not making that clear in the video.
Lol didn't know you did scale model trainsq
You work in 1/87th and 1/35th do you see where any of your modeling techniques in 1/35th would translate into 1/87th work????
Yeah, it's all the same effects in the end. Chipping, scrapes, dirt, grime...I use a lot of same techniques and products across both scales, I just try to keep it finer on the 1/87 so it doesn't look out of scale.
Hi
Hello!
Я работаю на железной дороги России) у нас такие тележки вагонов называют Барбер
Interesting....which part exactly do you call that?
@@Panzermeister36 тележки Barber S-2-R
When are you picking your tau army and give them this treatment! There are a lot of people that see you and Night Swift videos because they of weathering technics...
My Tau army was painted long ago when I was in high school, but I did buy some more Warhammer recently to weather in videos ;) some time this year I'll make a video.
That's not Milwaukee Road! 😉😆😂
I'm a heretic I know :)
@@Panzermeister36
We do accept old CN, CP and BCR....😉😆😂