Don't forget as a photographer, your priority is to capture the subject! I shoot a lot of events (parties, concerts, etc) where often the lighting is trash and using a flash can be distracting. I always use A but I also set higher limits on ISO so I can keep a higher shutter speed to capture faster movements. The noise may bug me, but my clients love how in the moment and action focused my stuff is. One helpful thing is that Lightroom's AI noise filter is actually quite good now so it compensates well for the extra noise.
I have no problem going to ISO 25600 on Sony and 51200 on Nikon. Just use an appropriate RAW processor for denoising. I'm using DXO PR3 and it does a phenomenal job.
Also I see people who post noisy, high clarity, low exposure, over edited pictures on Instagram and people praise the pics while the photographers like us think its trash. People that don't know about exposure, iso, bokeh, etc. don't care.
I shoot with an A7iv. My Memory Recall settings are 1) AP. SS min 1/125, ISO min 100 max 6400 (daytime shooting). 2) AP. SS min 1/250 ISO min 100 max 12800 (nightime shooting). 3) MANUAL. Exposure Composition when needed. I primarily shoot with the Zeiss Batis 40mm f2. These settings have worked very well for me. Just thought I'd pass on the info. Aloha Jason, mahalo for another great video.
I'm always in Aperture priority with ISOASS turned on which limits how low the shutter speed can go. I shoot in a lot of dark places and with my 85mm, it can be quite difficult when the shutter speed is dropping to 1/20 and such. ISOASS allows me to keep it at 1/60, 1/120 as minimum etc and then auto ISO takes up the slack. Its a winning formula. I'm also permanently at -2ev, never have to move it.
Oh that’s cool, never tried ISOASS, my issue is I don’t want my shutter going crazy either, like I don’t want my camera to say “oh ok let’s go to ISO8000 and shutter speed 1/800
@@PuReXtremeGaming Because it always meters too bright and overexposes stuff. Once you full well a pixel you can't retrieve data. Its much easier to recover stuff from shadows
I shot alot in aperture priority when I first got into photography and learning. I only shoot manual now just cause I just dont want the camera choosing anything for me. Id rather deal with my mistakes in not changing settings than getting upset the camera didnt meter the way I thought it would.
As much as I agree that pros will use Ap or shutter priority most of the time, beginners are not pros yet. For their journey in the study and practice of photography I think it is still better that they learn in manual mode first. Then when they really understand what they are doing in manual mode then using Ap or shutter priority to facilitate getting the shots they want in a more streamlined way is a better way of learning and developing a better sense for photography. Jumping straight to Ap without spending some time practicing in manual mode first is like trying to learn a pop song on piano without going through the fundamentals of learning how to play basic notes and scales first. I shoot in Ap primarily now but I spent the first three years of shooting photography only shooting in manual mode, because of this I feel I am better at recognizing when Ap, shutter priority, or manual mode will be better and am comfortable going into full manual when either Ap or shutter priority is not going to work for a specific situation (for example with studio strobes I prefer to be shooting manual mode).
I am a retired professional photographer (Master of Photography, Photographic Craftsman, CPP) and this is the best explanation of the reason for the different mode settings on the camera. Why, back in my day (insert old man voice here), the Hasselblads we shot with didn't even have a built-in light meter. Yep, manual everything, and the ISO was the ASA rating of the film. It's a good time to be a "brave shooter" these days. ;-)
I learned with an all manual film camera years ago. Murphy's Law dictates that if I am in A mode, I'll soon be confronted with a situation where I want to control the shutter; if I am in S mode, I'll want to control the aperture. I am normally in M mode so I can control both. ISO is usually fixed at base, although I'll occasionally use auto-ISO but will [hopefully] monitor it carefully.
@@inquisitvem6723 Yes but if ISO is auto then is it really Manual mode? 🙂. That's actually how I usually have my camera behave at power up and soon fix to what is appropriate.
Love this video. As someone who is a self-taught photographer I’ve been working on learning how to keep my images crisp and not blurry. Your breakdown on shutter speed is very helpful and I’ll be sure to use all of the other great tips given in this video. 🙏🏾
depending on the occasion (private or paid work) i use aperture priority or manual. What both have in common: Auto ISO - especially in manual. Cause lets face it: you controll shutter speed for freezing action / movement (or dont if you're goin for that), you adjust your aperture to controll depth of field, and maybe the light itself... which will leave you with ISO as the "only" variable. So i let the camera decide. Only if want to underexpose to save the sky or want a silhouette i start to controll iso manually (or use Exposure Compensation if i'm lazy) for private use or on vaccations, i mostly use aperture prio with auto ISO set to a minimum shutter speed... works like a charm. and maybe you see a pattern here: the only thing i will ALWAYS stay in controll of is aperture - cause in my opinion this has the most impact into the look and feel of an image. just my 2 cents EDIT: 3200 max for APS-C? thats lowballing for todays cameras, my limit is 12800 on a Fuji X-H2 - yes its stupid high, but the noise pattern of this camera has a certain look that i like, especially if i go for black and white images. And with the new AI noise reduction options we have today, its even less of a problem...
Great video! I almost exclusively shoot Manual for my landscapes, and of course astro, but when shooting wildlife I actually turn on auto ISO, and set the minimum and maximum ISO value that I’m comfortable with. I’ve found this is absolutely the easiest and most effective way to deal with frequently changing lighting conditions while still allowing me to control the shutter speed (important for moving subjects) and aperture (to maintain desired depth of field). I’ve used the custom programs to save specific camera settings for landscapes and wildlife so I can easily jump back and forth between the setups.
A mode is pretty much what I use for 95% of my shooting. I consider control of depth of field top priority almost over everything else and prefer the other settings to adjust automatically around this 👍🏽
A professional photographer is someone who makes the majority of their income from taking photos, but doesn't automatically make them expertly skilled at their profession.
When i shoot video with my family...(vacation, birthday) i take my Sony...put slog3, aperture priority, +0.7 or +1 ev compensate... And the results are Amazing and easy....
I've been toying around with this and basically figured out the exact same thing. I've only had my camera (a6700) for a little over a week now, so I'm still figuring out what it can/can't do, but it does start to get noticeably noisy around 6400 ISO. Pups catching treatos mid-flight also start to get blurry at any shutter speed under 1/100. I got the best kit lens Sony offered (Sony 18-135 f3.5-5.6) and it really struggles to get a crisp action image even in a well lit living room sometimes (it's a nice outdoor lens though). I picked up a Sigma 30mm f1.4 and a Sony 15mm f1.4 and that helps a LOT. I can drop the ISO down to reasonable levels while still keeping a high enough shutter speed to prevent motion blur by opening that aperture way up!
As a new photographer in the last 4 months (Sony A7IV) this video was beyond helpful. Super thanks!!! Also, i captured a few pics yesterday and have been in awe. This video just motivates me more!!😎
I just had a very bad trip in an event photo because of Av mode , Av mode require your camera is high end. Some camera does not have Minimum Shutter Speed function so shutter speed go to low and causes blur photos. Most important, in Av mode you receive the set up for ambient ligh, not for model. Lighting for model depends on flash lighting not on Av mode.
If you shoot AV mode the camera will blow out the highlights so you have to manually adjust the exposure compensation via a dial. If you shoot in manual and know your aperture already, you also have to adjust a dial (either ISO or shutter speed). It’s the same result as far as I’m concerned, either way you have to manual a dial, only one approach requires less dial operations as your camera is no longer guessing what’s important and blowing highlights whenever you change composition.
This is why I keep shooting manual even when not using speedlight. Still so much to configure and think about, based on what you need to avoid or want...avoid blur, overexposure etc. Why the roundabout, just learn manual and enjoy! 😊
Non sense set the iso to auto with aperture priority and you are done lol. At most you have to just set ONCE or adapt how fast you want your iso limits and shutter speed to be if 1/FL or faster depending on lighting conditions ie fastest in indoor events since no one wants that blurry people. Set that again ONCE and then shoot the night away. Compare that in going to manual where you Control 3 variables for every shot is hilarious
@@elo0915 in manual you don't get to control 3 settings (variables) but only what is needed based on the situations unless the others are needed to help with exposure. Manual gets me the images exposed just the way I want. 😂
I agree. Manual is the only way for me. The truth is, it's the same workflow. If Aperature is important to me, I just set it and manipulate the other two settings. Same with shutter speed. You're often adjusting two of the 3 variables at any given time as 1 of the 3 typically is an absolute for what you're trying to accomplish.
There is only one "proper" exposure based on available light and artistic expression. How you get to it is not important. Typically, however, it is best if you can get to it as quickly and easily as possible. For me lately that has been Flv mode on Canon. But who cares? Whatever works for you! I do think, however, that some people shoot manual just because they think that's what "pros" do. Increasingly, that's no longer the case.
I prefer to be in control of 2 of my settings for almost all situations. I use manual mode with auto ISO a lot. If I see my ISO getting too high I will decide if I can lower the shutter speed, open the aperture or both.
Jason, I love your energy and charisma. I didn't subscribe on the first video of you, but kept coming back. Now i got that subscription set to All. Thanks for the amazing fun filled contents!
Aperture priority For portraits and non moving subjects Shutter priority for fast moving subjects, Auto ISO or sometimes i will change it manually. It Depends on the lighting.
Why not shoot in manual mode with iso set to auto (3200max) Then decide your aperture (low number for background blur/portraits or higher number like f11 or 16 for landscape) then set your shutter speed to double your focal length.
My camera is antique to digital standards. I shoot with an Olympus e-3, and it's from 2008. 10 MP Four Thirds, and extra noise at higher ISO. I see no point in upgrading to a newer system as I have a wide assortment of lenses for the original Four Thirds. This camera doesn't have an auto mode that I can find, so when I am doing birds I use shutter, and landscapes I use aperture. I rarely use manual mode. When I was researching for an inexpensive full kit to put together, I wish I was a little more patient and went with just one good lens and a more modern camera, but I was just amazed at the condition of all this stuff because they weren't used for a long time. The original Four Thirds was only around for a little bit compared to MFT. I spent about $300 on a 50-200 f2.8-3.5 and another $300 on a 70-300 f3.5-4 I think... Significantly cheaper than buying a new system, but challenging. It still gets great pictures, just have to dial in the settings more often and keep the ISO lower than what you'd expect.
I shot in ONLY manual for many years when I used a DSLR. It's only with mirrorless that I shoot aperture priority most of the time. One reason was because the Canon 5D series cameras actually had better manual control that a Sony A7 series camera does. It's was just SO fast to switch settings on those old Canons, including the ISO, so I was fine with controlling all three values. Also, with a DSLR you were just looking through a mirror, so I was also doing exposure compensation in my head anyway with every shot. I was very good at doing this all very quickly in those days.
No, please keep those dumbing down explanation of your videos because I think a lot of us needs them explained that way. I’m annoyed at those bloggers talking about the how to’s without considering that there are people like me who’s got no single clue about a lot of things with cameras. I so appreciate this “dumbing down” explanation. And now I’m slowly getting it after a loooonnngg time watching from others. Hey, even the book called “…for dummies” are still hard to understand.
Very valuable feedback! Thank you for letting me know because I often get comments from very experienced folks watching saying I’m not using the right terminologies but the right terminologies often require a long explanation that makes the video incredibly dry. I think photography should just be fun and easily accessible and then encouraged for further research once someone has been enjoying the hobby for a long time.
What? Just go full manual! You have EVF. You can easily see how the image looks like in real time. With AV mode- you will have to keep adjusting the the Exposure Compensation Dial. Well, you might as well shoot full manual! Set the aperture and you only need to change either the Shutter dial or the Iso dial. It takes the same amount of effort ! And at least your exposures are more consistent for a given setting. Not jumping all over the place with AV mode.
I use the Sony A7 IV and i use the auto modus very often. You can change all values and the camera adjust like in the A / S / P Modus depending wich dial you used. For a shooting while traveling you can set everything very fast and get a nice shot. First i thought i already changed the mode but then realised that it does this in auto.
Absolutely agree with you. I rarely shoot any fast moving subjects and today's cameras are so good with metering, focusing, etc that I stopped using manual mode many years ago. So I very rarely use anything other than aperture priority and auto ISO with a sensible minimum shutter speed.
Interesting comments. I have been using Manual mode forever. Primarily landscape where only birds or waves are the subject of motion. What about P mode. Programmed mode? In landscape, the lighting changes radically.
I actually liked this video..... its nice to see these in the mix..... I know your pro sony... but I really enjoy these videos the most ...... very educational
great tips. On a7iv and a7rv, i am always using mode A for portrait and sport with min shutter speed set either to 1/250s or 1/1000s with a custom button. iso auto max 1600. i use a preset "3" for manual exposure 1/60sec F/2.8 iso fix 400 (decouple exposure comp and iso in menu for manual mode so easy to adjust iso with second wheel) for quick setup for low light photo and flash photo. I am not fan of S mode changing aperture and sometimes side effects with iso...
Your videos are more inspirational and have more learning effect than any book or video. Thank you for your content and for sharing your experience with us.
I had been shooting in manual mode all the time until I went on trip to the mountains, I ended up using aperture priority 99% of the time. It's really convenient.
Super thanks. I really enjoy your channel a LOT. I switched over to Sony cameras this past year and used your channel to gain a lot of knowledge on the Sonys. Your sense of humor resonates with me which adds to the material you present. Keep it up!!!
Super appreciate the donation! Welcome to Sony and my channel! I’m planning to make more of these kinds of videos in 2024 so definitely leave me any feedbacks!
Awesome video mate. The min & max ISO for both modes I never knew were a thing and same with changing the exposure comp. Keen to get out and see how much nicer it is!
I never understood why there is a min auto ISO setting. It's always the base ISO 100, why would ever want anything different? The only Auto ISO settings that make sense are max ISO and min SS.
You are ahead of many youtubers. I like how realistic you are in your videos. I'm in subscriber now. I use M A S all depend on the scene and location exactly as you have explained.
I, too, don't shoot always in M. unless I use my flashgun. I prefer S mode or complete auto mode most of the time. I use Sony A7c and that do not have easy way to control iso. if i press iso button, shutter value and aperture value disappear from the screen. If anyone know how to keep S and A value visible while changing iso, please comment. I had Nik. D5200, which has the most convenient buttons for shooting in manual.
In my case, I normally do wildlife photography where freezing the subject use to be the most important thing. So I normally use the shutter speed priority and it's wonderful.
I use the option to set the lowest shutter speed the camera is allowed to use. So the camera knows where it can get light from slower shutter and when it needs to start bumping up the ISO.
Definitely will try these settings when I shoot next. I’m still learning on my Canon M50 and learned with Manual like other videos so much emphasize on but watching this makes sense to try in certain situations 👍🏽👍🏽 plus giving me a better understanding of what my camera can do. TY
no one is using Manual mode , only those that shoot specific subject and lighting that does not change like say Astrophotography and if you use Manual lenses , you use Manual mode even if you put it in TV mode and you cant use Aperture mode i think , depends on the camera . Every mode has its use , and one uses manual mode if you know exactly what you want , down to the depth of field . But then you put ISO on AUTO . Because that is the only thing you can change , your Aperture is defined by DOF you want , your Shutter speed by the effect you want to get , slow or fast , so only thing you can change is ISO , and since camera will determine how much light there is it can do ISO , so you set it on AUTO . But that is if you can , sometimes even on lowest setting its too much light then you need shades for your lens . Every scenario needs specific approach , so every mode has its use . I would say for beginners to set it on Green , let the camera think about settings you think about light , composition , and story .
My main issue with using manual mode is that my camera often goes extremely bright or dark on the exposure meter right after I activate it. Even when it's nice outside, or there's enough light showing even indoors where I shouldn't be seeing darkness in my camera. And the main way to fix this is increasing the shutter speed all the way up, which doesn't make much sense to me. I normally prefer aperture priority because not only does everything look right and the shutter speed is chosen automatically, I also get to adjust the exposure compensation dial when necessary, especially if the scene looks too dark or maybe the brightness is higher than I would like.
Seriously? Nowadays manual with auto iso is the way to go. It is like combining Aperture and Shutter priority. One mode to rule them all. Also you stick with one mode and you do not risk to forget the dial in the wrong place at the wrong time.
For the last 15 years I shot in aperture priority. Before that, it was P mode. Now I have switched to TAv mode or for some cameras, it would be manual with auto ISO. You can Ap and Shutter without having to worry about lighting! I wished I started way before now.
80% of the time i'm on M, rest is either A or P. I've realised that often when i'm shooting fast action i'm switching back to manual to not be bothered by constant need for exposure correction. Sound counterintuitive but even with todays technology, light meters are only some scripts that don't know what your next move is.
I don't know why anybody would set ISO manually, unless you are shooting with flash or some other special cases. The only rational mode is A (or P if you don't care about aperture) with Auto ISO and setting the min shutter speed lets you control the motion blur and camera shake.
In 2024 this is changing rapidly. With advances being made in camera technology, shooting in manual with auto-ISO is very quickly becoming the norm for many shooters.
Unless you're in a studio and NEED to shoot manual for the strobes... you really never would shoot manual... Aperture priority 99% of the time and Shutter priority if you're shooting sports/wildlife
Jason, one thing I would add about the reciprocal of the focal length as minimum shutter speed for handheld, is that a lot of cameras (in some cases, lenses) have built-in image stabilization. I know the pitfall in this, but for the most part those work quite well to give you an extra couple of stops in handheld capability, especially if they stabilize on multiple axes. (axises? whatever). I am currently looking at a full frame camera with up to 7 stops IS, which in independent tests worked out to a realistic 5 stops, and thinking about never buying a flash for it.
Aloha JV, I started using AP about three or four years ago after you did a video on the a6400 or ZV1. It has been a godsend. Mahalo for all you do. You know like getting me into the Ricoh GR3 Dairy Edition and the X100V for creative outlet shooting 😂 I love you my wallet and other half hate you 😂😂😂😂
Yes, you do need to know how to work manual, but 9/10 these newer high end cameras will know whats best. Same AI that helps you in Lightroom is also helping you in-camera. Just make sure you have a compatible camera and lens system.
I use shutter priority 95% of the time for sports and event - I need to know that I set the minimum speed I need to freeze action - outdoors or even more importantly indoors in low light.
After years of ALWAYS using manual mode I pretty much now just sit in aperture priority 80% and shutter the other 20%.. I just some some great surfing in Tahiti last month all in shutter priority and got a ton of great shots. Manual is now just for down time creative shots that I have a ton of time to fuss around with.
Hello 👋 Jason let me tell you I love your videos because they are entertaining, informative, interesting, and instructive, you have a particular way to explain how the camera works 😃😃
Idk man when i was working as photographer i always used manual often with auto iso but not always (like if you're shooting a basket event and the lighting is always the same why you should change the iso). It doesn't take that much time to turn a dial
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Don't forget as a photographer, your priority is to capture the subject! I shoot a lot of events (parties, concerts, etc) where often the lighting is trash and using a flash can be distracting. I always use A but I also set higher limits on ISO so I can keep a higher shutter speed to capture faster movements. The noise may bug me, but my clients love how in the moment and action focused my stuff is. One helpful thing is that Lightroom's AI noise filter is actually quite good now so it compensates well for the extra noise.
Amen on just getting the shot!
I have no problem going to ISO 25600 on Sony and 51200 on Nikon. Just use an appropriate RAW processor for denoising. I'm using DXO PR3 and it does a phenomenal job.
Also I see people who post noisy, high clarity, low exposure, over edited pictures on Instagram and people praise the pics while the photographers like us think its trash. People that don't know about exposure, iso, bokeh, etc. don't care.
It's funny. I can't stand noise in my photos, but the people who buy them totally do not care.
I shoot with an A7iv. My Memory Recall settings are 1) AP. SS min 1/125, ISO min 100 max 6400 (daytime shooting). 2) AP. SS min 1/250 ISO min 100 max 12800 (nightime shooting). 3) MANUAL. Exposure Composition when needed. I primarily shoot with the Zeiss Batis 40mm f2. These settings have worked very well for me. Just thought I'd pass on the info. Aloha Jason, mahalo for another great video.
@thedarksurfer this is a great tip man! I just upgraded from an A7C to A7RV and these tips are brilliant.
Did you put these in the c1, c2, etc. in program memory? So you basically use aperture mode mostly? Except 3rd situation where you use manual
@@inquisitvem6723 You program them on the top dial in the 123 settings. I use AP probably about 60% of daytime and about 90% of nightime.
Pro here, and I never, repeat, never use anything but M
I'm always in Aperture priority with ISOASS turned on which limits how low the shutter speed can go. I shoot in a lot of dark places and with my 85mm, it can be quite difficult when the shutter speed is dropping to 1/20 and such. ISOASS allows me to keep it at 1/60, 1/120 as minimum etc and then auto ISO takes up the slack. Its a winning formula. I'm also permanently at -2ev, never have to move it.
any idea how to set that on an A7iii/A7c
@@DDHDTV there's setting something called iso auto minimum shutter speed in the menu
Why the -2 EV? Isn't a standard ev best and u can adjust it or
Oh that’s cool, never tried ISOASS, my issue is I don’t want my shutter going crazy either, like I don’t want my camera to say “oh ok let’s go to ISO8000 and shutter speed 1/800
@@PuReXtremeGaming Because it always meters too bright and overexposes stuff. Once you full well a pixel you can't retrieve data. Its much easier to recover stuff from shadows
I shot alot in aperture priority when I first got into photography and learning. I only shoot manual now just cause I just dont want the camera choosing anything for me. Id rather deal with my mistakes in not changing settings than getting upset the camera didnt meter the way I thought it would.
As much as I agree that pros will use Ap or shutter priority most of the time, beginners are not pros yet. For their journey in the study and practice of photography I think it is still better that they learn in manual mode first. Then when they really understand what they are doing in manual mode then using Ap or shutter priority to facilitate getting the shots they want in a more streamlined way is a better way of learning and developing a better sense for photography. Jumping straight to Ap without spending some time practicing in manual mode first is like trying to learn a pop song on piano without going through the fundamentals of learning how to play basic notes and scales first. I shoot in Ap primarily now but I spent the first three years of shooting photography only shooting in manual mode, because of this I feel I am better at recognizing when Ap, shutter priority, or manual mode will be better and am comfortable going into full manual when either Ap or shutter priority is not going to work for a specific situation (for example with studio strobes I prefer to be shooting manual mode).
Knocked it out if the park with this one. I love the knowledge amd I loved the fast editing. Great job Jason.
I am a retired professional photographer (Master of Photography, Photographic Craftsman, CPP) and this is the best explanation of the reason for the different mode settings on the camera. Why, back in my day (insert old man voice here), the Hasselblads we shot with didn't even have a built-in light meter. Yep, manual everything, and the ISO was the ASA rating of the film. It's a good time to be a "brave shooter" these days. ;-)
I learned with an all manual film camera years ago. Murphy's Law dictates that if I am in A mode, I'll soon be confronted with a situation where I want to control the shutter; if I am in S mode, I'll want to control the aperture. I am normally in M mode so I can control both. ISO is usually fixed at base, although I'll occasionally use auto-ISO but will [hopefully] monitor it carefully.
If you’re in manual mode , are you still able to put iso in auto?
@@inquisitvem6723 Yes but if ISO is auto then is it really Manual mode? 🙂. That's actually how I usually have my camera behave at power up and soon fix to what is appropriate.
Love this video. As someone who is a self-taught photographer I’ve been working on learning how to keep my images crisp and not blurry. Your breakdown on shutter speed is very helpful and I’ll be sure to use all of the other great tips given in this video. 🙏🏾
Setting the ISO higher in Aperture Priority to get a faster shutter rate is a great tip.
You just set Auto ISO with min shutter speed, you don't ever need to fiddle with the ISO manually.
yea 1000 is a good spot
Or just learn how to use a camera
Keep these short but informative tutorial videos coming, Jason!
YES! A lot of great info in a short time! :)
depending on the occasion (private or paid work) i use aperture priority or manual. What both have in common: Auto ISO - especially in manual. Cause lets face it: you controll shutter speed for freezing action / movement (or dont if you're goin for that), you adjust your aperture to controll depth of field, and maybe the light itself... which will leave you with ISO as the "only" variable. So i let the camera decide. Only if want to underexpose to save the sky or want a silhouette i start to controll iso manually (or use Exposure Compensation if i'm lazy)
for private use or on vaccations, i mostly use aperture prio with auto ISO set to a minimum shutter speed... works like a charm.
and maybe you see a pattern here: the only thing i will ALWAYS stay in controll of is aperture - cause in my opinion this has the most impact into the look and feel of an image.
just my 2 cents
EDIT: 3200 max for APS-C? thats lowballing for todays cameras, my limit is 12800 on a Fuji X-H2 - yes its stupid high, but the noise pattern of this camera has a certain look that i like, especially if i go for black and white images. And with the new AI noise reduction options we have today, its even less of a problem...
Great video! I almost exclusively shoot Manual for my landscapes, and of course astro, but when shooting wildlife I actually turn on auto ISO, and set the minimum and maximum ISO value that I’m comfortable with. I’ve found this is absolutely the easiest and most effective way to deal with frequently changing lighting conditions while still allowing me to control the shutter speed (important for moving subjects) and aperture (to maintain desired depth of field). I’ve used the custom programs to save specific camera settings for landscapes and wildlife so I can easily jump back and forth between the setups.
A mode is pretty much what I use for 95% of my shooting. I consider control of depth of field top priority almost over everything else and prefer the other settings to adjust automatically around this 👍🏽
A professional photographer is someone who makes the majority of their income from taking photos, but doesn't automatically make them expertly skilled at their profession.
When i shoot video with my family...(vacation, birthday) i take my Sony...put slog3, aperture priority, +0.7 or +1 ev compensate... And the results are Amazing and easy....
I've been toying around with this and basically figured out the exact same thing. I've only had my camera (a6700) for a little over a week now, so I'm still figuring out what it can/can't do, but it does start to get noticeably noisy around 6400 ISO. Pups catching treatos mid-flight also start to get blurry at any shutter speed under 1/100. I got the best kit lens Sony offered (Sony 18-135 f3.5-5.6) and it really struggles to get a crisp action image even in a well lit living room sometimes (it's a nice outdoor lens though). I picked up a Sigma 30mm f1.4 and a Sony 15mm f1.4 and that helps a LOT. I can drop the ISO down to reasonable levels while still keeping a high enough shutter speed to prevent motion blur by opening that aperture way up!
As a new photographer in the last 4 months (Sony A7IV) this video was beyond helpful. Super thanks!!! Also, i captured a few pics yesterday and have been in awe. This video just motivates me more!!😎
Let’s go!!!
I just had a very bad trip in an event photo because of Av mode , Av mode require your camera is high end. Some camera does not have Minimum Shutter Speed function so shutter speed go to low and causes blur photos.
Most important, in Av mode you receive the set up for ambient ligh, not for model. Lighting for model depends on flash lighting not on Av mode.
If you shoot AV mode the camera will blow out the highlights so you have to manually adjust the exposure compensation via a dial. If you shoot in manual and know your aperture already, you also have to adjust a dial (either ISO or shutter speed). It’s the same result as far as I’m concerned, either way you have to manual a dial, only one approach requires less dial operations as your camera is no longer guessing what’s important and blowing highlights whenever you change composition.
This is why I keep shooting manual even when not using speedlight.
Still so much to configure and think about, based on what you need to avoid or want...avoid blur, overexposure etc.
Why the roundabout, just learn manual and enjoy! 😊
Non sense set the iso to auto with aperture priority and you are done lol.
At most you have to just set ONCE or adapt how fast you want your iso limits and shutter speed to be if 1/FL or faster depending on lighting conditions ie fastest in indoor events since no one wants that blurry people. Set that again ONCE and then shoot the night away.
Compare that in going to manual where you Control 3 variables for every shot is hilarious
@@elo0915 if it was that simple you would not have written this long explanation. Nonsense. You know it's not that simple. 😂
@@elo0915 in manual you don't get to control 3 settings (variables) but only what is needed based on the situations unless the others are needed to help with exposure. Manual gets me the images exposed just the way I want. 😂
I agree. Manual is the only way for me. The truth is, it's the same workflow. If Aperature is important to me, I just set it and manipulate the other two settings. Same with shutter speed. You're often adjusting two of the 3 variables at any given time as 1 of the 3 typically is an absolute for what you're trying to accomplish.
There is only one "proper" exposure based on available light and artistic expression. How you get to it is not important. Typically, however, it is best if you can get to it as quickly and easily as possible. For me lately that has been Flv mode on Canon. But who cares? Whatever works for you! I do think, however, that some people shoot manual just because they think that's what "pros" do. Increasingly, that's no longer the case.
I prefer to be in control of 2 of my settings for almost all situations. I use manual mode with auto ISO a lot. If I see my ISO getting too high I will decide if I can lower the shutter speed, open the aperture or both.
Jason, I love your energy and charisma. I didn't subscribe on the first video of you, but kept coming back. Now i got that subscription set to All. Thanks for the amazing fun filled contents!
Aperture priority For portraits and non moving subjects
Shutter priority for fast moving subjects,
Auto ISO or sometimes i will change it manually. It Depends on the lighting.
Why not shoot in manual mode with iso set to auto (3200max) Then decide your aperture (low number for background blur/portraits or higher number like f11 or 16 for landscape) then set your shutter speed to double your focal length.
My camera is antique to digital standards. I shoot with an Olympus e-3, and it's from 2008. 10 MP Four Thirds, and extra noise at higher ISO. I see no point in upgrading to a newer system as I have a wide assortment of lenses for the original Four Thirds. This camera doesn't have an auto mode that I can find, so when I am doing birds I use shutter, and landscapes I use aperture. I rarely use manual mode. When I was researching for an inexpensive full kit to put together, I wish I was a little more patient and went with just one good lens and a more modern camera, but I was just amazed at the condition of all this stuff because they weren't used for a long time. The original Four Thirds was only around for a little bit compared to MFT. I spent about $300 on a 50-200 f2.8-3.5 and another $300 on a 70-300 f3.5-4 I think... Significantly cheaper than buying a new system, but challenging. It still gets great pictures, just have to dial in the settings more often and keep the ISO lower than what you'd expect.
An option could be spend 50$ for a Viltrox JY-43F and upgrade only the body
I agree with Jason... when there is time, Manual mode is great. When time is scarce.. then P (Program mode) or A modes are better.
I shot in ONLY manual for many years when I used a DSLR. It's only with mirrorless that I shoot aperture priority most of the time.
One reason was because the Canon 5D series cameras actually had better manual control that a Sony A7 series camera does. It's was just SO fast to switch settings on those old Canons, including the ISO, so I was fine with controlling all three values. Also, with a DSLR you were just looking through a mirror, so I was also doing exposure compensation in my head anyway with every shot. I was very good at doing this all very quickly in those days.
No, please keep those dumbing down explanation of your videos because I think a lot of us needs them explained that way. I’m annoyed at those bloggers talking about the how to’s without considering that there are people like me who’s got no single clue about a lot of things with cameras. I so appreciate this “dumbing down” explanation. And now I’m slowly getting it after a loooonnngg time watching from others. Hey, even the book called “…for dummies” are still hard to understand.
Very valuable feedback! Thank you for letting me know because I often get comments from very experienced folks watching saying I’m not using the right terminologies but the right terminologies often require a long explanation that makes the video incredibly dry. I think photography should just be fun and easily accessible and then encouraged for further research once someone has been enjoying the hobby for a long time.
What? Just go full manual! You have EVF. You can easily see how the image looks like in real time. With AV mode- you will have to keep adjusting the the Exposure Compensation Dial. Well, you might as well shoot full manual! Set the aperture and you only need to change either the Shutter dial or the Iso dial. It takes the same amount of effort ! And at least your exposures are more consistent for a given setting. Not jumping all over the place with AV mode.
Always excited for Jason's new vids. whatever it is!
Much appreciated!!
I use the Sony A7 IV and i use the auto modus very often. You can change all values and the camera adjust like in the A / S / P Modus depending wich dial you used. For a shooting while traveling you can set everything very fast and get a nice shot. First i thought i already changed the mode but then realised that it does this in auto.
I have been using Aperture priority for the past year. It’s awesome. I manually set my ISO and aperture and the camera does the rest.
Absolutely agree with you. I rarely shoot any fast moving subjects and today's cameras are so good with metering, focusing, etc that I stopped using manual mode many years ago. So I very rarely use anything other than aperture priority and auto ISO with a sensible minimum shutter speed.
Interesting comments. I have been using Manual mode forever. Primarily landscape where only birds or waves are the subject of motion. What about P mode. Programmed mode? In landscape, the lighting changes radically.
It’s like my grandpappy always said “you cant go wrong with vong”
Auto iso is my go to. Can just keep an eye on it and drop shutter speed if needed or use exposure compensation
I actually liked this video..... its nice to see these in the mix..... I know your pro sony... but I really enjoy these videos the most ...... very educational
great tips. On a7iv and a7rv, i am always using mode A for portrait and sport with min shutter speed set either to 1/250s or 1/1000s with a custom button. iso auto max 1600. i use a preset "3" for manual exposure 1/60sec F/2.8 iso fix 400 (decouple exposure comp and iso in menu for manual mode so easy to adjust iso with second wheel) for quick setup for low light photo and flash photo. I am not fan of S mode changing aperture and sometimes side effects with iso...
Thank you. A few of your videos have helped me a ton. Do you have any editing/post-processing classes you can recommend?
For photos, my friend @professorhines got some great editing stuff on his channel!
Very helpful video. I’ve never used Exposure Compensation on a regular basis. For ISO, I usually set the max at 6400.
In indoor low light it,s very difficult to shoot in Aperture mode for slow shutterspeed
A professionl photographer just isn't limited by rules
Your videos are more inspirational and have more learning effect than any book or video. Thank you for your content and for sharing your experience with us.
I had been shooting in manual mode all the time until I went on trip to the mountains, I ended up using aperture priority 99% of the time. It's really convenient.
Thank you Jason for another great video! Simple and straight to the point, easy to understand!
Super thanks. I really enjoy your channel a LOT. I switched over to Sony cameras this past year and used your channel to gain a lot of knowledge on the Sonys. Your sense of humor resonates with me which adds to the material you present. Keep it up!!!
Super appreciate the donation! Welcome to Sony and my channel! I’m planning to make more of these kinds of videos in 2024 so definitely leave me any feedbacks!
Awesome video mate. The min & max ISO for both modes I never knew were a thing and same with changing the exposure comp. Keen to get out and see how much nicer it is!
I never understood why there is a min auto ISO setting. It's always the base ISO 100, why would ever want anything different? The only Auto ISO settings that make sense are max ISO and min SS.
I don’t trust aperture priority to get the shutter speed right, to stop the action for street photography.
Why is nobody talking in this videos about the "ISO Auto Min. VS" Feature? This is so helpful and makes things so easy.
Bull. I use automatic ISO with a minimum of 400. That way I control shutterspeed AND depth of focus!
It’s better to describe the ISO as the sensor’s sensitivity to light. That transfers well from the days of film ASA or ISO.
You missed the most important Tipp on Sony cameras! Combining Aperture Priority with ISO Min SS that can be put in the function menu.
You are ahead of many youtubers. I like how realistic you are in your videos. I'm in subscriber now.
I use M A S all depend on the scene and location exactly as you have explained.
I, too, don't shoot always in M. unless I use my flashgun. I prefer S mode or complete auto mode most of the time. I use Sony A7c and that do not have easy way to control iso. if i press iso button, shutter value and aperture value disappear from the screen. If anyone know how to keep S and A value visible while changing iso, please comment. I had Nik. D5200, which has the most convenient buttons for shooting in manual.
Thank you very much for this very helpful video. This is exactly what I needed to get me started.
In my case, I normally do wildlife photography where freezing the subject use to be the most important thing. So I normally use the shutter speed priority and it's wonderful.
I use av for day, and manual at night with auto iso capped at 6400 with minimum 125 SS.
I use the option to set the lowest shutter speed the camera is allowed to use.
So the camera knows where it can get light from slower shutter and when it needs to start bumping up the ISO.
Definitely will try these settings when I shoot next. I’m still learning on my Canon M50 and learned with Manual like other videos so much emphasize on but watching this makes sense to try in certain situations 👍🏽👍🏽 plus giving me a better understanding of what my camera can do. TY
no one is using Manual mode , only those that shoot specific subject and lighting that does not change like say Astrophotography and if you use Manual lenses , you use Manual mode even if you put it in TV mode and you cant use Aperture mode i think , depends on the camera . Every mode has its use , and one uses manual mode if you know exactly what you want , down to the depth of field . But then you put ISO on AUTO . Because that is the only thing you can change , your Aperture is defined by DOF you want , your Shutter speed by the effect you want to get , slow or fast , so only thing you can change is ISO , and since camera will determine how much light there is it can do ISO , so you set it on AUTO . But that is if you can , sometimes even on lowest setting its too much light then you need shades for your lens .
Every scenario needs specific approach , so every mode has its use . I would say for beginners to set it on Green , let the camera think about settings you think about light , composition , and story .
Fantastic info especially for beginner like me. With the safe bet numbers for each mode… huge help thanks
My main issue with using manual mode is that my camera often goes extremely bright or dark on the exposure meter right after I activate it. Even when it's nice outside, or there's enough light showing even indoors where I shouldn't be seeing darkness in my camera. And the main way to fix this is increasing the shutter speed all the way up, which doesn't make much sense to me.
I normally prefer aperture priority because not only does everything look right and the shutter speed is chosen automatically, I also get to adjust the exposure compensation dial when necessary, especially if the scene looks too dark or maybe the brightness is higher than I would like.
I use aperture priority most of the time. Only for low light situation or shots with long setups
Great video!!! Extremely helpful
another shorty-meaty day! learned lots! thanks!
Auto iso, shutter speed and white balance can cause issues with keeping constancy. It causes edit workflow to be slow.
We are pros. Shoot aperture priority all the time unless it’s flash work.
Always helpful, thanks for this videos mate.
Seriously? Nowadays manual with auto iso is the way to go. It is like combining Aperture and Shutter priority. One mode to rule them all. Also you stick with one mode and you do not risk to forget the dial in the wrong place at the wrong time.
This is what I here came to say.
For the last 15 years I shot in aperture priority. Before that, it was P mode. Now I have switched to TAv mode or for some cameras, it would be manual with auto ISO. You can Ap and Shutter without having to worry about lighting! I wished I started way before now.
80% of the time i'm on M, rest is either A or P. I've realised that often when i'm shooting fast action i'm switching back to manual to not be bothered by constant need for exposure correction. Sound counterintuitive but even with todays technology, light meters are only some scripts that don't know what your next move is.
I don't know why anybody would set ISO manually, unless you are shooting with flash or some other special cases. The only rational mode is A (or P if you don't care about aperture) with Auto ISO and setting the min shutter speed lets you control the motion blur and camera shake.
Bruh. I just spent months of learning "Manual" , only to realize that 98.7% of photographers use Aperture mode instead. lmao
In 2024 this is changing rapidly. With advances being made in camera technology, shooting in manual with auto-ISO is very quickly becoming the norm for many shooters.
Right videos comes at right time. Thank you.
i got myself an a1 and 1.4/35. and i never made a real picture in my life. and you are about to teach me alot xD
Dumbing things down is very very helpful.
You have very good assistant. Great work I accidentally came to your channel it is great one !from Australia 🇦🇺
Unless you're in a studio and NEED to shoot manual for the strobes... you really never would shoot manual... Aperture priority 99% of the time and Shutter priority if you're shooting sports/wildlife
Good point. Unless you are in studio in controlled environment, where you can safely shoot M - any other setting is a fair game
Jason, one thing I would add about the reciprocal of the focal length as minimum shutter speed for handheld, is that a lot of cameras (in some cases, lenses) have built-in image stabilization. I know the pitfall in this, but for the most part those work quite well to give you an extra couple of stops in handheld capability, especially if they stabilize on multiple axes. (axises? whatever). I am currently looking at a full frame camera with up to 7 stops IS, which in independent tests worked out to a realistic 5 stops, and thinking about never buying a flash for it.
I just use M-mode, set ISO to AUTO, Exposure Comp to 0, then just adjust SS & Aperture.
Aloha JV,
I started using AP about three or four years ago after you did a video on the a6400 or ZV1. It has been a godsend. Mahalo for all you do. You know like getting me into the Ricoh GR3 Dairy Edition and the X100V for creative outlet shooting 😂
I love you my wallet and other half hate you 😂😂😂😂
Yes, you do need to know how to work manual, but 9/10 these newer high end cameras will know whats best. Same AI that helps you in Lightroom is also helping you in-camera. Just make sure you have a compatible camera and lens system.
I use shutter priority 95% of the time for sports and event - I need to know that I set the minimum speed I need to freeze action - outdoors or even more importantly indoors in low light.
I use both Aperture And Manual
How about if you use flash? Which one would you choose then?
Keep on “dumbing it down” for us beginners!
After years of ALWAYS using manual mode I pretty much now just sit in aperture priority 80% and shutter the other 20%.. I just some some great surfing in Tahiti last month all in shutter priority and got a ton of great shots. Manual is now just for down time creative shots that I have a ton of time to fuss around with.
HI this would work when you are using automatic lens,but not with an full manual lens. interesting video thanks
With the new noise reduction in lightroon or topaz I can set auto iso to 10000 iso. On a aps-c nikon D7200 and get good results.
Thank you Jason …
Helpful as always
Hello 👋 Jason let me tell you I love your videos because they are entertaining, informative, interesting, and instructive, you have a particular way to explain how the camera works 😃😃
Aperture Vong is never wrong
Idk man when i was working as photographer i always used manual often with auto iso but not always (like if you're shooting a basket event and the lighting is always the same why you should change the iso). It doesn't take that much time to turn a dial
Another excellent video, thank you
Would love to see something like this for video shooters and how you are shooting run and gun or changing natural light situations.
I’m shooting on a MFT. Should I be using your APSC settings as a baseline?