As a small, skittish bird photographer, I will go so far as to say, a loud, slappy mechanical shutter is not good. But an electronic shutter that lets you adjust down to a very faint shutter sound is the best. A totally silent shutter, SUCKS ! My Canon R5 gave no option for sound with ES and I hated it. Only a little flicker around the frame through the viewfinder, to know you were even taking a photo. Not enough feedback for me. I ended yup shooting with mechanical shutter, which was louder than I preferred, but better than dead silent.
For the banding lines w/ silent shutter, if you can use shutter speeds lower than 1/60, you should be fine. It happens when there are LED lights, because of their blinking frequency. If your speed is lower than that frequency, you'll get it lit for every row of pixels. But, if you need faster speeds, yeah: just disable silent shutter.
1/50 for PAL. By the way LEDs are just one type of light where this happens. Many neon lights do it as well. And of course there are also constantlit LEDs. You just need to be aware that some lights are flickering in the frequency of the AC power ;)
Try to adjust it between multiples of 50 or 60 : 1/50 or 1/60 1/100 or 1/120 1/150 or 1/180 etc ! This will get the rid of any led banding issue ! And don’t use Silent (electronic) shutter on fast moving objects : it will deform them on the pictures since it’s using the rolling shutter
Silent shutter is great for street photography under certain conditions. Like with all features, learn how they work so you know when it will work for you vs. against you. I use it when I'm making street photos in a confined space, like on a bus or tram, or in a coffee shop.
I will just add another important points: 1. not to forget fast moving subjects gets distorted with e shutter, 2. I hear electronic curtain causes bad bokeh balls, 3. use sky or wall with small aperture like f22 to see all dust on sensor(your nightmare), disable sensor protection when off if you need to clean sensor, then turn it on back, 4. new cameras can stack a lot of photos even with raws and its not like a phone to easily pinch and see sharpness, so sigle take can save a lot of your time, 5. sometimes getting focus and sharp picture is hard on phone, apsc, not to mention fullframe will make it way harder, getting further or decrease aperture to slower one like f10 can help, 6. turning off wifi can increase battery life.
I don’t agree on your 5th point modern cameras already have best of the best autofocus system. Depends on your lens and. The manufacturer you choose for. F10 for sharp photo ? 😂 seems like you haven’t upgraded from dslr yet!?
the 5th point is just... wrong? i only ever miss focus if i either mess up myself or shoot a very challenging subject. You really dont need to stop down to achieve good focus
@@VishwasRavindran92 maybe I did say 8t wrongly, I mean to get all you want in focus, since area of focus is thinner with bigger sensor and aperture, better bokeh tho. As for eye AF, it's obviously OK, but for objects without eyes and getting them sharp whole, not getting almost everything bokeh like, not easy. Example group shots.
@@Ethefake I already answered that here, look. But another example, kit lens, old camera, getting focus, you only need slow aperture and everything is in focus 8f eyes AF isn't there, or to focus near when it's impossible with big aperture...
1:39 “Tip Number 2” is amazing! @JasonVong I have had my Sony A7IV for 2 years, and just now, because you posted this, I NOW have set that (Face/Eye Frame Disp.) set to ON, and now I unlock all the awesome eye autofocus features the camera has which i was I was unaware I wasn’t taking advantage of. Thanks for such a timely post!
@@JasonVong i couldn’t get my Zhiyun Weebill 3S with AI transmount to show a menu or way to engage Object Tracking which the Weebill 2 had. Im hoping this setting you uncovered for me will magically make that setting show up and that i can select a subject and track it from the MasterEye controller. I don’t suppose you know about that crap as well as do Sony do you? Hey I would love a companion to this and your Focus video on 10 bit color selection for these cameras, specifically how to just shoot and edit/develop/post without color grading and Luts, tell me about HLG - HDR video and photography, i especially like whatever HDR capture/processing can be done in camera, not everyone loves the sitting in front of a color wheel part of the motion picture sharing process. Thank you Jason!
I know you in the past recommend no Picture Profiles, but i believe that is just an 8bit video and it’s not taking advantage of the HDR capabilities that an A7IV has?
Tip#3 .... When reviewing a photo on the camera, if you "zoom" into the photo (hit the magnifying button), itll zoom to the area the camera grabbed focus
Seriously Jason. I like not only the useful information you are posting. But also, the sense of humor that comes with it. You make the video useful and fun at the same time! Thank you
Technically, silence shutter is not the problem. Silent mode forces electronic shutter. If you don't want binding, your shutter speed needs to be in sync with the light. So the problem is the shutter speed.
I was pretty well aware of most of these, but changing the folders to the date and having a hot key for staring the photos are going to be HUGE time savers for me. Thank you for always putting out easy to follow and useful content.
If you use playmemories for download nd only download it will download automatically by date and only the newest ones if you used it to download the others , far faster than your trick.
Thank you, Jason! This is such invaluable information! I used your old settings video back when I got my a6400 a few years ago, and now looking at this updated version as I'm setting up my new (happy birthday to me🎉) a6700 camera. Thank you for sharing your many years of experience with the community.
The setting to turn off Audio signals in the 1.0 menu is actually in page 2, Custom Operation2 listed as Audio signals. The one you showing in the left at 1:36 is just silent shooting, which caused banning as mentioned by you in the beginning :D
This is a camera feature I regret not using in my early years in photography. It’s good for capturing candid and spontaneous expressions of people without the wait for the click.
AWESOME VIDEO JASON, I’m a long time Sony mirrorless shooter and I think half of your Settings you wish you knew sooner were ones I was unaware, all of the settings you point out are very useful. Thank you.
Incredibly helpful. After shooting with Canon for 30 years I switched to Sony just over a year ago. Trying to figure out where everything is has been daunting. I learned tip 1 the hard way. Thank you!
I prefer to use small point center tracking focus for scenes like you described with the shrine. It means I can leave Eye AF on and focus and recompose if I don't want to focus on a person's eye.
Silent shutter, auto flicker or just know your country electricity frequency, it's just between 2. 50hz or 60hz. Also for most non flagship highest end Sony camera, jello effect due to slow readout
Thank Jason for such an INFORMATIVE video. The sections that HELP me the MOST are: Silent Shutter, Face/Eye Frame Display, Focus Frame Display, Date Form, and Lens Compensation. On question please, I suspect the Lens Compensation feature works only with Sony lenses. Is that right?
It does work with some 3rd party lenses. IIRC Tamron has a few lenses that encouraged using lens compensation. Breathing Compensation is only for Sony lenses
Thanks a lot for the helpful tips and especially for including both menu systems! I happen to own an a7CII and an a7RIV, so I actually needed both. You saved my a lot of time!
This my homie right here, but don't be ma at me my guy I have to slightly make a disagreement with proper explanation. Silent shutter is awesome but you have to treat it like a video mode... in photography. To make it make sense here lol... Natural light like you said agreed... inside anywhere, you have to use shutter angle so like our U.S. peeps 1/60 and my U.K. peeps 1/50. For U.S, you need to shoot 1/60, 1/120, 1/180 or 1/200 for certain cameras. UK 1/50, 1/100, 1/150, 1/200 ... etc. Don't shoot too far past max shutter speed/HSS, it freaks and the lines just multiplies lol. With agreeance, get on location early like you're supposed to anyways and test your settings to see where things work and not then when this roll out, you can dial in and enjoy your shoot.
Great job on the video Jason! Thanks for making it. Nice work adding some content in for the folks with the older menu system. Love those special edition Peak Design anchors in alpha orange. Got a set for myself the last Sony event we did at the store I work at here in Vegas.
Hi Jason, I have followed your channel long time. It's really helpful and easy to understand. One question want to ask you long time. I have seen your video sometime will connect a mobile with Sony camera by a type C cable as a monitor. May I know the method? Or it's not a mobile? Or it needs a third party app? If you can make a video to share this, it will really graceful for beginners. Thank you
At 8:51, tip 8, I delete obvious defective photos and then wait until I can get to a bigger screen to access whether the photo is suitable; many times the little, itty bitty, the details are too small. Overall good tips.
The focus point on reviewing the focus may not be visible in menu1 users, but as soon as you zoom in on a preview, it will automatically zoom in on the focus point of that photo.
Thanks so much for sharing your great tips!!! I love all of them, but especially like the setting up a custom button for rating images. I had no idea I could do that. This is definitely going to save me some time.
A brilliant video, thank you - the two tips I wished I knew sooner was the electronic shutter and the focus point. I started doing a lot more wildlife photography this year and so have had my shutter on silent permanently- this now explains some strange results on moving subjects! Also the focus point is really helpful, as I often can’t understand why the focus is wrong. Having now tried this, I see that I have accidentally moved the focus point location! I would love to be able to lock that of have a small fixed centre focus option.
for tip 3 on old sony 1.0 menus simply go to the photo and click the zoom in button. It should automatically take u to where there focus point is in the photo.
Silent shutter is amazing, i use it all time and has nothing to do with the banding lines, those are caused by your shutter speed being faster than the current lighting. so the light is flickering. The solution is to decrease your shutter speed to the point where you have no banding lines. Really has nothing to do with not making a sound at least on my A7r2
I recently started shooting in silent with my a7riii during a recent astro. I mostly do landscape/Astro. Decided to try silent to reduce mechanical clicks. Your thoughts?
0:55:00 uhhhh I wish I knew… i ruined quite a few photos in a great place going silent, and I finally saw this banding issue. Many thanks! The A7Cii does the anding vertically on my Sigma lens and it’s highly noticeable with artificial light in evening or darker areas being lit by artificial lighting.
Silent shutter also drops your bit depth (and corresponding color progressions and dynamic range), I think from 12 to 10 bit. Disappointed you failed to bring that up.
@JasonVong I recently bought an A7C mark II, and I noticed that it gets very hot especially in the lens mount area. The seller says it's normal, do you agree?
Another tip. Dont use 1080p video recording rather record in 4K and export with 1080p afterwards the quality will be much better even at the end the video has the same pixel count. The difference is in the compression which is much worse when recorded in 1080p.
Silent shutter on the a7iv can cause warping on fast moving objects in action shots like a warped looking gulf club when someone takes a swing at the ball...
Never use tip nr 5! You lose MPx. Use instead Clear Image Zoom. At least with Jpegs. It might be enough to crop 1,2 or 1,3 times to get rid of the vignetting AND you won't lose any pixels. As an example the tiny and cheap APS-C lens 10-18/4 can be used like 13-21mm on FF cameras by putting it to 1,3x in Clear Image. Obviously it's better to use a sharper lens than that, but it was an example.
Not really because first you can frame in live which is different both in photo but especially in video. Secondly you can apply clearzoom on top of the crop footage. On my a7c apsc gives 10mp, i used it for wildlife to be sure i get the closeup i want. 10mpbs is good enough for printing. And lastly i use it a lot in video, it allows avoiding distortion to do close shot by using a 35mm lens like a 50mm at the correct 50mm distance but getting closer like you want with the 35mm without the distortion you would get otherwise.
Can you elaborate on the file naming? Sony has this weird naming for folder, they're not in chronological order. Date Form: The folder name form is as follows: folder number + Y (the last digit)/MM/DD. Example: 10040405 (Folder number: 100, date: 04/05/2014) The folder number really messes up with the search. I have not found a way around it.
I used to shoot exclusively on mechanical shutter to avoid the banding issue... That is until my mechanical shutter broke! I guess I rapid-fired too much. Now I pretty much use electronic shutter unless I need to use my flash.
Jason your Raw pics will be displayed with pre view I don’t see that on my MacBook. Any idea why is that? MacBook is 2024 Modell and I use a alpha 7c r 🤔
Hi, My display screen on the a6700 displays completely different colours during still photography than the images I shoot. The actual images are great and the awb works great 8/10 times but the live image on the camera display is a bit contrasty and a bit cyan. I checked to see if it had to do with the picture profiles in video mode but that doesn't seem to be the case. Any recommendations of why the colours look completely different on the display screen?
As a wildlife photographer silent shutter is a must unless you like scaring away your subjects. 🤣
How much wildlife lives indoor with LED lighting though "🤣"
Was never any issue with my dslrs and shooting without silent shutter on a mirrorless is way quieter and hasnt been any issues for me either.
As a small, skittish bird photographer, I will go so far as to say, a loud, slappy mechanical shutter is not good. But an electronic shutter that lets you adjust down to a very faint shutter sound is the best. A totally silent shutter, SUCKS ! My Canon R5 gave no option for sound with ES and I hated it. Only a little flicker around the frame through the viewfinder, to know you were even taking a photo. Not enough feedback for me. I ended yup shooting with mechanical shutter, which was louder than I preferred, but better than dead silent.
For the banding lines w/ silent shutter, if you can use shutter speeds lower than 1/60, you should be fine. It happens when there are LED lights, because of their blinking frequency. If your speed is lower than that frequency, you'll get it lit for every row of pixels. But, if you need faster speeds, yeah: just disable silent shutter.
1/50 for PAL.
By the way LEDs are just one type of light where this happens. Many neon lights do it as well. And of course there are also constantlit LEDs.
You just need to be aware that some lights are flickering in the frequency of the AC power ;)
Try to adjust it between multiples of 50 or 60 : 1/50 or 1/60 1/100 or 1/120 1/150 or 1/180 etc ! This will get the rid of any led banding issue !
And don’t use Silent (electronic) shutter on fast moving objects : it will deform them on the pictures since it’s using the rolling shutter
Silent shutter is great for street photography under certain conditions. Like with all features, learn how they work so you know when it will work for you vs. against you. I use it when I'm making street photos in a confined space, like on a bus or tram, or in a coffee shop.
I'm sorry but as a street photographer who's main focus is stealth/subtlety, silent shutter is a must.
I will just add another important points:
1. not to forget fast moving subjects gets distorted with e shutter,
2. I hear electronic curtain causes bad bokeh balls,
3. use sky or wall with small aperture like f22 to see all dust on sensor(your nightmare), disable sensor protection when off if you need to clean sensor, then turn it on back,
4. new cameras can stack a lot of photos even with raws and its not like a phone to easily pinch and see sharpness, so sigle take can save a lot of your time,
5. sometimes getting focus and sharp picture is hard on phone, apsc, not to mention fullframe will make it way harder, getting further or decrease aperture to slower one like f10 can help,
6. turning off wifi can increase battery life.
Airplane mode definitely helps with battery life.
I don’t agree on your 5th point modern cameras already have best of the best autofocus system. Depends on your lens and. The manufacturer you choose for. F10 for sharp photo ? 😂 seems like you haven’t upgraded from dslr yet!?
the 5th point is just... wrong? i only ever miss focus if i either mess up myself or shoot a very challenging subject. You really dont need to stop down to achieve good focus
@@VishwasRavindran92 maybe I did say 8t wrongly, I mean to get all you want in focus, since area of focus is thinner with bigger sensor and aperture, better bokeh tho. As for eye AF, it's obviously OK, but for objects without eyes and getting them sharp whole, not getting almost everything bokeh like, not easy. Example group shots.
@@Ethefake I already answered that here, look. But another example, kit lens, old camera, getting focus, you only need slow aperture and everything is in focus 8f eyes AF isn't there, or to focus near when it's impossible with big aperture...
1:39 “Tip Number 2” is amazing! @JasonVong I have had my Sony A7IV for 2 years, and just now, because you posted this, I NOW have set that (Face/Eye Frame Disp.) set to ON, and now I unlock all the awesome eye autofocus features the camera has which i was I was unaware I wasn’t taking advantage of. Thanks for such a timely post!
No problem! It’s weird some cameras have it on by default and some off. It’s incredibly handy to have on!
@@JasonVong i couldn’t get my Zhiyun Weebill 3S with AI transmount to show a menu or way to engage Object Tracking which the Weebill 2 had. Im hoping this setting you uncovered for me will magically make that setting show up and that i can select a subject and track it from the MasterEye controller.
I don’t suppose you know about that crap as well as do Sony do you?
Hey I would love a companion to this and your Focus video on 10 bit color selection for these cameras, specifically how to just shoot and edit/develop/post without color grading and Luts, tell me about HLG - HDR video and photography, i especially like whatever HDR capture/processing can be done in camera, not everyone loves the sitting in front of a color wheel part of the motion picture sharing process.
Thank you Jason!
I know you in the past recommend no Picture Profiles, but i believe that is just an 8bit video and it’s not taking advantage of the HDR capabilities that an A7IV has?
Tip#3 .... When reviewing a photo on the camera, if you "zoom" into the photo (hit the magnifying button), itll zoom to the area the camera grabbed focus
Seriously Jason. I like not only the useful information you are posting. But also, the sense of humor that comes with it. You make the video useful and fun at the same time! Thank you
I‘m a wedding photographer and No.1 just saved my life! Thank you so much!
Those weird banding lines are because your shutter speed is out of sync with the LED light frequency in the room.
Technically, silence shutter is not the problem. Silent mode forces electronic shutter. If you don't want binding, your shutter speed needs to be in sync with the light. So the problem is the shutter speed.
Yeah correct, but I also noticed how difficult it can be to always identify if there will be binding. To be sure: mech shutter.
Just a note, the 'beep' sound when focusing works ONLY when on AF-S (singe shot) and NOT when the camera is on AF-C (continues mode).
I was pretty well aware of most of these, but changing the folders to the date and having a hot key for staring the photos are going to be HUGE time savers for me. Thank you for always putting out easy to follow and useful content.
Could’ve used this video a week ago when I did silent shutter during a wedding ceremony I shot…. I have a lot of editing to do….
😢😢😢
Had exactly the same thing happen to me 2 years ago at a wedding shoot. Never make that mistake again
Denoise will save you!
the bending is not editable to me. made the same error a few weeks ago at an event
If you use playmemories for download nd only download it will download automatically by date and only the newest ones if you used it to download the others , far faster than your trick.
Thank you, Jason! This is such invaluable information! I used your old settings video back when I got my a6400 a few years ago, and now looking at this updated version as I'm setting up my new (happy birthday to me🎉) a6700 camera. Thank you for sharing your many years of experience with the community.
The setting to turn off Audio signals in the 1.0 menu is actually in page 2, Custom Operation2 listed as Audio signals. The one you showing in the left at 1:36 is just silent shooting, which caused banning as mentioned by you in the beginning :D
This is a camera feature I regret not using in my early years in photography. It’s good for capturing candid and spontaneous expressions of people without the wait for the click.
Jesus those two tips about the eye af and the AF in retrospec really are new to me. Thanks for this one !
These are really good tips, Jason! Though I’ve been a Sony shooter for years I only recently got an A7Rv and these really helped.
Hope you’ve been enjoying the a7RV. It’s a stellar camera with a nice articulating screen!
AWESOME VIDEO JASON, I’m a long time Sony mirrorless shooter and I think half of your Settings you wish you knew sooner were ones I was unaware, all of the settings you point out are very useful. Thank you.
"MEGAPICKLES" yes!
Incredibly helpful. After shooting with Canon for 30 years I switched to Sony just over a year ago. Trying to figure out where everything is has been daunting. I learned tip 1 the hard way. Thank you!
I prefer to use small point center tracking focus for scenes like you described with the shrine. It means I can leave Eye AF on and focus and recompose if I don't want to focus on a person's eye.
havent finished watching the whole video but really appreciate the two version menu showing part
I am from Vietnam. Very useful information, thank you. Wish the channel more and more development!
Silent shutter, auto flicker or just know your country electricity frequency, it's just between 2. 50hz or 60hz.
Also for most non flagship highest end Sony camera, jello effect due to slow readout
Thank Jason for such an INFORMATIVE video. The sections that HELP me the MOST are: Silent Shutter, Face/Eye Frame Display, Focus Frame Display, Date Form, and Lens Compensation.
On question please, I suspect the Lens Compensation feature works only with Sony lenses. Is that right?
It does work with some 3rd party lenses. IIRC Tamron has a few lenses that encouraged using lens compensation. Breathing Compensation is only for Sony lenses
@@JasonVong Thanks.
I use silent shutter for wildlife but if im at indoor event, ive put a small piece of black tape over the speaker so the shutter sound isnt too loud
As always, Jason, succinct, clear and funny; thank you.
Thanks a lot for the helpful tips and especially for including both menu systems! I happen to own an a7CII and an a7RIV, so I actually needed both. You saved my a lot of time!
This my homie right here, but don't be ma at me my guy I have to slightly make a disagreement with proper explanation. Silent shutter is awesome but you have to treat it like a video mode... in photography. To make it make sense here lol... Natural light like you said agreed... inside anywhere, you have to use shutter angle so like our U.S. peeps 1/60 and my U.K. peeps 1/50. For U.S, you need to shoot 1/60, 1/120, 1/180 or 1/200 for certain cameras. UK 1/50, 1/100, 1/150, 1/200 ... etc. Don't shoot too far past max shutter speed/HSS, it freaks and the lines just multiplies lol. With agreeance, get on location early like you're supposed to anyways and test your settings to see where things work and not then when this roll out, you can dial in and enjoy your shoot.
Great job on the video Jason! Thanks for making it. Nice work adding some content in for the folks with the older menu system. Love those special edition Peak Design anchors in alpha orange. Got a set for myself the last Sony event we did at the store I work at here in Vegas.
Hi Jason, I have followed your channel long time. It's really helpful and easy to understand. One question want to ask you long time. I have seen your video sometime will connect a mobile with Sony camera by a type C cable as a monitor. May I know the method? Or it's not a mobile? Or it needs a third party app? If you can make a video to share this, it will really graceful for beginners. Thank you
At 8:51, tip 8, I delete obvious defective photos and then wait until I can get to a bigger screen to access whether the photo is suitable; many times the little, itty bitty, the details are too small. Overall good tips.
Breeze Browser
its old af but wow it helps sorting and file management
The focus point on reviewing the focus may not be visible in menu1 users, but as soon as you zoom in on a preview, it will automatically zoom in on the focus point of that photo.
Thank you for the tip about shooting in low light on silent mode. I had low light inside a theater and noticed the banding when I got home.
Thanks so much for sharing your great tips!!! I love all of them, but especially like the setting up a custom button for rating images. I had no idea I could do that. This is definitely going to save me some time.
Tips 7 & 8 will come in clutch for me. Shooting pro wrestling events can be a nightmare to sort through lol😅
A brilliant video, thank you - the two tips I wished I knew sooner was the electronic shutter and the focus point. I started doing a lot more wildlife photography this year and so have had my shutter on silent permanently- this now explains some strange results on moving subjects! Also the focus point is really helpful, as I often can’t understand why the focus is wrong. Having now tried this, I see that I have accidentally moved the focus point location! I would love to be able to lock that of have a small fixed centre focus option.
My boy Vong never leads me wrong!!
Ive been watching your videos for quite sometime. And its this video that made me hit the subscribe button. Watching from the UK 🙂
for tip 3 on old sony 1.0 menus simply go to the photo and click the zoom in button. It should automatically take u to where there focus point is in the photo.
Silent shutter is amazing, i use it all time and has nothing to do with the banding lines, those are caused by your shutter speed being faster than the current lighting. so the light is flickering. The solution is to decrease your shutter speed to the point where you have no banding lines. Really has nothing to do with not making a sound at least on my A7r2
for astro and low if you stack your images turn on Silent shooting
disable all compensation and shot raw
I recently started shooting in silent with my a7riii during a recent astro. I mostly do landscape/Astro. Decided to try silent to reduce mechanical clicks. Your thoughts?
Another great video Jason. Keep up the good work. Have a lovely week.
OH MY GOD! Finally found out why are my photos are so fckd up! Because of silent mode! Thank you so much!
This was amazing & so fun to listen to! Thank you Jason, you just got a new subscriber 🥰
I have been using an a6100 for years I had no clue silent shutter caused those bands! thank you!
I had been looking for why they kept showing up for years
0:55:00 uhhhh I wish I knew… i ruined quite a few photos in a great place going silent, and I finally saw this banding issue. Many thanks! The A7Cii does the anding vertically on my Sigma lens and it’s highly noticeable with artificial light in evening or darker areas being lit by artificial lighting.
Some solid tips! I like the explanation of the file folder tip, I was stuck having the piles ups of footage as well!
I always leave the eye out of focus on and if I want to focus on something else I just touched the screen to track it
These are very helpful indeed. Thank you very much, Mr. Jason Vong.
Silent shutter also drops your bit depth (and corresponding color progressions and dynamic range), I think from 12 to 10 bit.
Disappointed you failed to bring that up.
Omg this was actually so helpful Jason thank you!
Very useful tips, Thanks Jason 😊👍❤
been doing this for 10+ years and still learning!
Silent shutter it great when doing video recording, especially at weddings
Vong's on fire lately! Thanks!
I always used silent shutter and never had a problem with it
Finally picking up my SONY A6700 camera next month.
Love all the Sony content. Thanks!
Me: Wait, it's *NOT* clickbait?
Jason: Never was.
🤜🤛
Thanks again Jason. Always learning from your video's.
@JasonVong I recently bought an A7C mark II, and I noticed that it gets very hot especially in the lens mount area.
The seller says it's normal, do you agree?
Another tip. Dont use 1080p video recording rather record in 4K and export with 1080p afterwards the quality will be much better even at the end the video has the same pixel count. The difference is in the compression which is much worse when recorded in 1080p.
Silent shutter on the a7iv can cause warping on fast moving objects in action shots like a warped looking gulf club when someone takes a swing at the ball...
Thank you Jason for the tips! 😎
some points were useful to me, good video
Been a Sony user for years - but some great new tips. Every day’s a school day! Thank you.
Best most helpful video you’ve ever done!
I wish I had seen these tips about 2 months ago when I moved from a Canon system to Sony Thanka
Sir, you're a gawd damn genius!
Never use tip nr 5! You lose MPx. Use instead Clear Image Zoom. At least with Jpegs. It might be enough to crop 1,2 or 1,3 times to get rid of the vignetting AND you won't lose any pixels.
As an example the tiny and cheap APS-C lens 10-18/4 can be used like 13-21mm on FF cameras by putting it to 1,3x in Clear Image. Obviously it's better to use a sharper lens than that, but it was an example.
Excellent video!!!!!
Excellent tips!!!!!!
Thanks for your work and for sharing!!!!! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
thanks boo. another great presentation.
Regarding tip.#5, why not leave it on auto?
Great Tips definitely didn't knew some of them . Thanks 🙏
Very useful tips, great video!
Thank you so much! This was incredibly helpful
Yes agree. Silent shutter. Not what I want. Nikon coolpix p510
Putting the camera in apsc mode will just crop. So you can really just crop it in post and its the same thing :)
Not really because first you can frame in live which is different both in photo but especially in video. Secondly you can apply clearzoom on top of the crop footage. On my a7c apsc gives 10mp, i used it for wildlife to be sure i get the closeup i want. 10mpbs is good enough for printing.
And lastly i use it a lot in video, it allows avoiding distortion to do close shot by using a 35mm lens like a 50mm at the correct 50mm distance but getting closer like you want with the 35mm without the distortion you would get otherwise.
Dude!! You really called out Micheal!! Damnnnn!!! 🫣
Tip 3 omg thank you so much!!!
Can you elaborate on the file naming? Sony has this weird naming for folder, they're not in chronological order.
Date Form:
The folder name form is as follows: folder number + Y (the last digit)/MM/DD.
Example: 10040405 (Folder number: 100, date: 04/05/2014)
The folder number really messes up with the search. I have not found a way around it.
You have sped my workflow. 😌
Unless you have a stacked/partially stacked sensor like the Nikon Z6iii/Z8
DOES A7C have a crop/trim image option?
great tips @JV!
I used to shoot exclusively on mechanical shutter to avoid the banding issue... That is until my mechanical shutter broke! I guess I rapid-fired too much. Now I pretty much use electronic shutter unless I need to use my flash.
I use electronic front curtain shutter (mechanical rear) on my A74.
Fantastic Video 🙌
Excellent Video
Never heard the newer touch menu are 2.0, and the one before 1.0. Because maaaaaaaany more iterations were before, what are threy then, V -3.0? :)
I use full mechanical always. These newer cameras with no mech shutter scare me.
Jason your Raw pics will be displayed with pre view I don’t see that on my MacBook. Any idea why is that? MacBook is 2024 Modell and I use a alpha 7c r 🤔
I used silent mode in wildlife without any issues. Photo and video. I don’t use it indoor or in city outside, just for wildlife.
Hi, My display screen on the a6700 displays completely different colours during still photography than the images I shoot. The actual images are great and the awb works great 8/10 times but the live image on the camera display is a bit contrasty and a bit cyan. I checked to see if it had to do with the picture profiles in video mode but that doesn't seem to be the case. Any recommendations of why the colours look completely different on the display screen?
V E R Y helpful! THX!
Thanks Jason! How many megapickles is a9iii with apsc mode?
I don’t have one on me to check rn but if it’s 24mp then I would assume 10mp just like the a7III
Some really helpful tips, thanks.