I've watched a million videos on SLOG3 and how to expose it properly over the past week, and this video is easily the best I've seen set. A lot of detail included but told in very simple terms, cheers mate!
Overall a good video. A couple minor corrections. 1: every gamma curve uses different zebra values, not just slog3. 2: the histogram is AWESOME when used with zebras. Lets you easily ETTR (expose to the right), which a good thing. When you do that you're capturing more data in the top end frequencies, which REQUIRE more data. The histogram should never "pile up" at either end if possible. When you use it in tandem with zebras as a safety, is SUPER fast to get a great exposure, because you can see the histogram move left or right as you shift exposure in real time. Zebras have your back. If you're run and gun, instead of setting zebras differently for skin, etc, you leave zebras at 94+ (for slog3), and expose as bright as you can up until the BRIGHTEST THING IN THE FRAME THAT YOU WANT TO RETAIN DETAIL IN shows zebras. Remember, sometimes it's normal and perfectly fine to let things clip. By doing this you not only retain highlights, but you keep a LOT more flexibility and dynamic range down in the shadows. Much better to pull things down than push them up. Good video, keep up the good work, brutha!
@@seandewispelaere Not tough at all. Just look at it. If the big blob is further to the left increase your exposure until it's closer to the right but not crushed up against it. Very simple.
@@natepotter6911 what if you have a very contrasty scene? like just a white table with a black object for example it will spike up at both sides which confuses me even more lol
@@LS-is5ob that's where you use zebras to keep the brightest thing that you CARE ABOUT to not blow out. Simple. Re-read what I described above. There are stills some times where you will want to set custom zebras, but I rarely need to with the technique I'm describing. ETTR is your friend because the high end contains more data. You should NEVER use the MM display. All cameras have a finite dynamic range, you just have to pick your battles.
@@natepotter6911 thank you! I’m new to slog 3 since i just bought my first 10bit camera and one thing i noticed that with your tip and seans combined, is that i get a lot less noise/color noise in the shadows, even when pushing the colors quite heavily :)!
Also a quick comment on the "pulling back the iso one click" if you are using the base iso of 800 and 12800, Sony fx3) and you are utilizing an ND filter you don't have to touch the iso if you use your filter to bring down the zebras. I've learned so much from this video. Thank you!
I have been shooting slog 3 for many years and find it depends on the situation, when in lower light seems over exposing a little more helps with not having so much grain. Actually when I started using false color years ago my footage was way way better and more accurate.
@@seandewispelaerei started using False colors only last week 😅 It helped me build my own LUT without blowing out highlights. Actually I think it was you in one of your videos that spoke about false colors in one of your videos that got me to try it
@@Kawabata_Akira it's a setting that helps show exposure levels using color tones. I use my program called Dehancer in my editor. My camera monitor also displays false colors to check for proper exposure.
I think this video is a good help in simple terms... Those numbers are IRE values if anyone wants to look up/ learn more. Those values differ between camera/sensor, settings like S-LOG3 and rec709. What I learned from this video is the max IRE of 94 before loss of detail to white. very helpful.
I was searching the whole internet for the exposure and slog3 conversion and this is exaclty what i wanted. What a life saver video, thanks Sean❤ your contenta are just🔥 you got a sub
The fact that you showed me a method that INSTANTLY worked blows my mind 😂 I watched the top 10 videos on this topic and not a single person showed me the zebra method the way you did. It’s criminal how simple this was. Thank you and I look forward to finallyyyy getting good Slog 3 videos on my Sony A1!
You’re making content creation easier for everyone thank you! Expose to your subject! Maximum dynamic range isn’t always necessary - Thats my takeaway from this video. I just exposed to the white of my drawing paper with this 👍🏿
This video is everything I've been looking for the last two weeks. I can't wait to see what else is in your channel. I've been shooting photography for about 2 years now. I do inexpensive videography for clients, but I've been shooting with an iPhone on a gimbal. This week I picked up a Sony a7iv for a great deal and I've been wearing google out trying to soak up all the I can on Picture Profiles and shooting with SLOG3 and trying to teach myself how to properly color grade in post. I'm really glad I found your channel and I look forward to seeing what other knowledge you have to share.
I learned how to shoot in slo3 last year and it took me probably days and hours and hours to find all the information you put into a single video...this was FANTASTIC, Sean! THANK YOU! You've def earned my sub!
Just got my a7cii yesterday and im off to relearning how to use these new range of sony cams. Came across a dozen videos online, none as helpful and clear as yours. Appreciate you mate!
I always appreciate your approach to teaching us the best methods for exposure. Thank you for explaining your process and how it can work for us. This is a great video! Very helpful!!
Thanks for your vids; I'm new to Sony and the ZVE1 and they have been helpful. Two questions on how you manage exposure for SLog3.... 1) How do you approach a shot that doesn't have any stark white; say you are shooting a fence or something. Do you still push it to 94, then back off a click and then reduce it to suit your tastes in post; or do you eyeball the brightest object and guess/estimate the IRE and convert it to a SLog3 equivalent. I know you can pull out grey cards and all that; but what do you do in real life when you have time pressure; say shooting non-repeatable scenes and you have to get it in the can one take and at the speed of life? 2) When filming scenes that have significant shifts in lighting; say walking through a yard with shadows, following a person from a lit room onto a dark patio.... How do you manage setting exposure accurately and smoothly in a continuous shots when the scene is changing with smooth changes?
@@JimPaul0627 I’ve had some success with SCinetone in various automatic modes. The slog seems to lock out auto or else I’m missing something (which is totally possible given only a few days of use from a long time Canon user).
Sean...I don't shoot video very often so I tend to forget where I have my settings. I was doing a shoot mid-day sun and we decided to do some video, I shot in S-Log3. I had my Zebras set to 56+\- 3 (unknowingly, I adjusted my VND accordingly). I had forgotten that this is the setting for skin tones, but I adjusted it to not clip the sky (94+). Of course, the video was underexposed. However, it actually turned out fine when I fixed the exposure in post. One thing that I really cool that I don't hear a lot of people talk about with the newer Sony's (i.e. A7iv and newer) is Flexible Exposure Mode. This is a great run & gun tool.
Lots of GREAT info in here. For simplicity, I still prefer to shoot in a modified PP. Lately, I've even reverted to (audible gasp) 8-bit to save on storage space. I've found zero difference in 10-bit vs. 8-bit for non-LOG footage. But for those that want to maximize dynamic range, SLOG3 is amazing.
Best channel by far. Everything I know pretty much learned from you videos, just wanted to say a big thank you! And just an idea for maybe a few minutes Christmas video? I personally dealing with real estate videos.Myself included, but I know, there are thousands and thousands of people waiting for a "how to properly expose slog 3 for real estate" video, where you have overexposed windows and mixed lighting sometimes. It would benefit a lot of people. Thanks again, keep up the good work!
Dude….I’ve been watching this channel for a while. You’re work is killer. This video is literally just what I needed. Works like a charm. I can’t thank you enough Bro. Superb presentation.
This was very clear and detailed. In most situations I like to use false color just because it allows me to see different exposure values at once. I also tend to follow the Sony recommended values for skin tones with cacausian skin topping out at 52 or 53% especially for interview/talking head settings. I find 70 to be too high in most situations. Great video overall! 👍 👍
one of my favourite channels on RUclips! I've been using Canon for a while and love my R8 but I also just got a Sony ZVe10 and wanted to try out the Sony APSC System. This helped a lot, thank you!
This video was needed I started my sports channel and bought the Sony a7iv tried shooting at low light with ISO 350 and the footage came out soo grainy I couldn't even fix it in post, now I just film at Auto as I'm too scared to mess it all up again. I did manage to get decent quality shooting at iso 450 and you definitely get more flexibility with colour grading shooting at that settings, I will keep experimenting until I get it right, thanks for the video and keep up the great content. 💥
Crazy video!!!! How well have you explained it man! Love it. Will complete watching most of your channel videos by tomorrow. Cheers, You've got a new fan!❤
I kinda do something similar for exposure. I use the histogram & adjust until it isn't clipping or stacking to the right while leaving the zebra at 100. Haven't had issues but will try this out
Thank you for this. I have been shooting for years and is so intimidated by S-Log 3. I’ve shot in it before but in post, when I edit it doesn’t look good.
The reason people suggest you overexpose SLOG 3 is so that the noise is less noticeable. For example: If I overexpose a video on my a6700 by 2 stops without clipping highlights at iso 800, (adjusting everything else to overexpose), and then bring the exposure down by two stops in the first node in Davinci Resolve. I will have a cleaner image than exposing for the middle. I'm not sure why you had to do all those extra adjustments to get it to look the same. In resolve all I have to do is set up a colour managed workflow and choose my input colour space, then use the hdr wheels to bring the exposure down by however many stops I overexposed.
@@Menosfilms thanks for the response man! it was one of the last things I needed to figure out b4 trying all this for the first time lol, really appreciate it had me stumped (new to this game)
This is all well and good unless you don't want noise in your shadows. Your method here requires using ISO values between the base ISOs (800 or 12800). That results in a lot of noise in the shadows. I think some of the other Alpha series cameras have internal noise reduction, but on the FX3, for example, avoiding a lot of noise means staying at 800 or 12800. Moreover, if you have to shoot at 12800 to properly expose a fairly dark scene, you'll still see some noise in the shadows unless you overexpose by about two stops and sacrifice some detail in the highlights. So on the FX3 this might be a good approach for situations where you have a fast prime lens and can stay at 800 ISO, but otherwise it means too much noise.
Quick note on the overexposing method: using ISO in camera isn’t technically changing your exposure. This won’t increase the amount of light hitting the sensor. Raising ISO in digital cameras is considered a post process and isn’t much different than lifting the exposure slider in your editing software of choice. Sony cameras do tend to look better if you actually overexpose a bit but at the end of the day, finding the right workflow for you is definitely what’s most important and your method looks great!
Good stuff. On my watching list. I need to learn once and for all. For some reason even after applying the LUTs my skin lacks detail and looks weird. I will follow your method and see if I can finally nail S-Log exposure and post.
Hey Sean. Love your channel! JUST FYI: I signed up for your free exposure guide. In case anyone is having the same issue, in Mac Mail, your emails are going to the junk folder.
Thank you, I'm glad to hear that you like the channel. VERY odd on that, I took at look at my deliverability stats on the backend and everything looks good but I imagine there would be a situation like this or two that come up. I appreciate the heads up on this, Rich, thank you
Thank you for the detailed explanation. As a beginner, I've been having trouble with my footage. After setting up the custom zebras, do you set your metering mode to multi or spot? Also, do you use the same method in run-and-gun situations?
I tend to leave things at defaults as much as I can and customise only what I need. So instead of overwriting PP1 I checked my Sony's settings and PP8 already is defined as S-Log3+Cine. 🙂
In a run-n-gun situation, I tend over expose SLog3 by +1.7 using the spot metering (spot on your target subject) in-camera has always worked for me. The Zebras seem like a better option, but if you have to update zebra values using that chart everytime you are changing subjects then it's not efficient for me, also, changing ISO values degrades the picture quality as opposed to sticking to the base ISO (like when using the FX3 with CineEI Slog3) and increasing/decreasing lighting (assuming that you can control the light)
Great content which I have ever seen from RUclips. You have done a clear and simple explanation about the point. Will it be a good idea to set these zebra values in a Sony a7riii, which is an 8 bit camera Is Zebra values same for Slog 2 and Slog3 or Is it different for both?. Great information. Love from India Thank You so much for the video
A great video, thank you. You asked for some comments so here goes. 1) I want to deliver to HDR, seems crazy to downscale to Rec.709, and have the right equipment, how can I get a LUT for that for the SLog 3 setting? Is it not available due to camera screen not being HDR capable? 2) Try low light using HLG 3 and in general, the ease of use and delivery is light years easier. Your thoughts on this would be great. An excellent methodology. I’d love to see you do a run and gun setup and process, best Profile and exposure settings and techniques. Lastly, going back to my dislike of downscaling to Rec.709, I’m surprised at the slow take-up of HDR given the following: a) RUclips and Vimeo have really upgraded their ability to detect the user device capabilities to display HDR or only Rec.709 b) Most phones, iPads, tablets, TV’s can now display HDR c) Editing in HDR is now possible using similar devices All of the above said, am I missing something, probably. Brilliant work by you, thank you.
Thank you , I'm glad you liked it. Appreciate the notes/questions as well. A few thoughts: - I don't have a ton of experience with HDR so I won't have a lot to say here, but it sounds like you have a really strong base - Regarding run and gun, I use the exact methods from this video. In my experience, memorizing the chart along with the right custom buttons/settings on the camera results in some really fast and accurate adjustments?
@@seandewispelaere thanks for taking the time out to reply, I would never expect one because there are so many comments and I’m assuming you do have a life outside of RUclips. Keep them coming mate.
Great video but have two questions for studio talking head shoots: 1. Would holding a WB card in front of your talent’s face and zebra exposing to bright white 85 work rather than second guessing skin tone colour? 2. Under controlled studio lighting are there still advantages to film in s-log3 rather than s-cinetone?
Just load neutral -2EV LUT to your camera and you’ll always will nail the exposure I do not know how FF Sony cameras handle normal “0EV”exposed slog3, but crop sensor like FX30 is VERY NOISY at 0EV in the shadows. So -2EV LUT is very handy every time I use SLOG3
Thanks for this. Great explanation. I've watched a number of videos and this is one of the best on this topic. Are you applying the LUTS to an adjustment layer(s) or directly to the clip?
It really depends on the camera. FS7 Overexpose, FX6 overexpose about .5 to 1 stop, especially with iso 12000 I would go close to 1 stop if possible. If there is strong backlight then don't go past .5. FX9 overexpose about .5 to 1 similar with the FX6 watch how bright the background is. A7S3 overexpose .5 stops unless you have a bright background, if you do, don't over expose. Same with A74 but it handles highlights better than A7S3. The reason you over expose all of these cameras is to get a clean noise level. Sony cameras have really good highlight retention, better than most including Canon but the shadows can be noisy if not over exposed so to get the most out of it, overexpose. Now the Sony Burano you don't have to over expose. This camera is the only one that truly breaks the mold. It's super clean and has awesome highlight roll off and great shadow detail. It also has great recovery so far only beaten by the Arri 35 according to the Cinema5D test. With the Burano you expose normally unless you want to push or pull one way for extreme scenes.
@@seandewispelaere you give me more confidence shooting in LOG. I always go back n forth between no picture profile and Slog-3 and now I have more confidence to shoot all my productions in LOG
I like the better, HS quality format. It is H265 which chokes my PC, so I record proxy files in-body 👍🏻 Also, with HS you can do 10 bit without having to do 4:2:2, which the extra data gets thrown out anyway, in broadcast or YT
What no one tells you about 10bit, you need specific software to grade that footage. The price is also high if you're used to using software's like Davinci
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I've watched a million videos on SLOG3 and how to expose it properly over the past week, and this video is easily the best I've seen set. A lot of detail included but told in very simple terms, cheers mate!
Dang that was really cool of you to say. Happy to hear that you found it so helpful ✅
This is the best SLog3 explanation I have ever heard. Literal game changer.
Overall a good video. A couple minor corrections. 1: every gamma curve uses different zebra values, not just slog3. 2: the histogram is AWESOME when used with zebras. Lets you easily ETTR (expose to the right), which a good thing. When you do that you're capturing more data in the top end frequencies, which REQUIRE more data. The histogram should never "pile up" at either end if possible. When you use it in tandem with zebras as a safety, is SUPER fast to get a great exposure, because you can see the histogram move left or right as you shift exposure in real time. Zebras have your back. If you're run and gun, instead of setting zebras differently for skin, etc, you leave zebras at 94+ (for slog3), and expose as bright as you can up until the BRIGHTEST THING IN THE FRAME THAT YOU WANT TO RETAIN DETAIL IN shows zebras. Remember, sometimes it's normal and perfectly fine to let things clip. By doing this you not only retain highlights, but you keep a LOT more flexibility and dynamic range down in the shadows. Much better to pull things down than push them up.
Good video, keep up the good work, brutha!
Thanks for the note and agreed about different values per profile, BUTTTT I'm going to be a very, very tough sell on the histogram for the beginner :)
@@seandewispelaere Not tough at all. Just look at it. If the big blob is further to the left increase your exposure until it's closer to the right but not crushed up against it. Very simple.
@@natepotter6911 what if you have a very contrasty scene? like just a white table with a black object for example it will spike up at both sides which confuses me even more lol
@@LS-is5ob that's where you use zebras to keep the brightest thing that you CARE ABOUT to not blow out. Simple. Re-read what I described above. There are stills some times where you will want to set custom zebras, but I rarely need to with the technique I'm describing. ETTR is your friend because the high end contains more data. You should NEVER use the MM display. All cameras have a finite dynamic range, you just have to pick your battles.
@@natepotter6911 thank you! I’m new to slog 3 since i just bought my first 10bit camera and one thing i noticed that with your tip and seans combined, is that i get a lot less noise/color noise in the shadows, even when pushing the colors quite heavily :)!
Also a quick comment on the "pulling back the iso one click" if you are using the base iso of 800 and 12800, Sony fx3) and you are utilizing an ND filter you don't have to touch the iso if you use your filter to bring down the zebras. I've learned so much from this video. Thank you!
I have been shooting slog 3 for many years and find it depends on the situation, when in lower light seems over exposing a little more helps with not having so much grain. Actually when I started using false color years ago my footage was way way better and more accurate.
I like false color a lot, good points here - thanks for sharing
@@seandewispelaere Thanks for the content , great stuff
@@seandewispelaerei started using False colors only last week 😅
It helped me build my own LUT without blowing out highlights. Actually I think it was you in one of your videos that spoke about false colors in one of your videos that got me to try it
hi, what's false color?
@@Kawabata_Akira it's a setting that helps show exposure levels using color tones. I use my program called Dehancer in my editor. My camera monitor also displays false colors to check for proper exposure.
I think this video is a good help in simple terms...
Those numbers are IRE values if anyone wants to look up/ learn more. Those values differ between camera/sensor, settings like S-LOG3 and rec709.
What I learned from this video is the max IRE of 94 before loss of detail to white.
very helpful.
Exactly what I need. Clear and simple explanation of Zebras because I think is the best camera tool to exposure our footage correctly.
Made my day reading this, glad it landed for you
I was searching the whole internet for the exposure and slog3 conversion and this is exaclty what i wanted. What a life saver video, thanks Sean❤ your contenta are just🔥 you got a sub
That’s awesome and welcome to the channel
The fact that you showed me a method that INSTANTLY worked blows my mind 😂 I watched the top 10 videos on this topic and not a single person showed me the zebra method the way you did. It’s criminal how simple this was. Thank you and I look forward to finallyyyy getting good Slog 3 videos on my Sony A1!
Can't be done more clear! Thanks a lot for such nice piece of information!!
Ahhh thank you so dang much
You saved me! Everything was looking flat after the the latest a7 update and turns out s-log assist is off by default now. Thank you!
You’re making content creation easier for everyone thank you! Expose to your subject! Maximum dynamic range isn’t always necessary - Thats my takeaway from this video. I just exposed to the white of my drawing paper with this 👍🏿
This video is everything I've been looking for the last two weeks. I can't wait to see what else is in your channel. I've been shooting photography for about 2 years now. I do inexpensive videography for clients, but I've been shooting with an iPhone on a gimbal. This week I picked up a Sony a7iv for a great deal and I've been wearing google out trying to soak up all the I can on Picture Profiles and shooting with SLOG3 and trying to teach myself how to properly color grade in post. I'm really glad I found your channel and I look forward to seeing what other knowledge you have to share.
Welcome to the channel, really glad you’re here 💯
I learned how to shoot in slo3 last year and it took me probably days and hours and hours to find all the information you put into a single video...this was FANTASTIC, Sean! THANK YOU! You've def earned my sub!
Just got my a7cii yesterday and im off to relearning how to use these new range of sony cams. Came across a dozen videos online, none as helpful and clear as yours. Appreciate you mate!
The absolute best, detailed, and easy to understanding SLOG3 video I've ever seen. Thanks so much!
I always appreciate your approach to teaching us the best methods for exposure. Thank you for explaining your process and how it can work for us. This is a great video! Very helpful!!
Thanks for the note, really appreciate you
Honestly this video helped me, and just use the same system everytime.
Thanks for your vids; I'm new to Sony and the ZVE1 and they have been helpful. Two questions on how you manage exposure for SLog3.... 1) How do you approach a shot that doesn't have any stark white; say you are shooting a fence or something. Do you still push it to 94, then back off a click and then reduce it to suit your tastes in post; or do you eyeball the brightest object and guess/estimate the IRE and convert it to a SLog3 equivalent. I know you can pull out grey cards and all that; but what do you do in real life when you have time pressure; say shooting non-repeatable scenes and you have to get it in the can one take and at the speed of life? 2) When filming scenes that have significant shifts in lighting; say walking through a yard with shadows, following a person from a lit room onto a dark patio.... How do you manage setting exposure accurately and smoothly in a continuous shots when the scene is changing with smooth changes?
My question also. Almost everything I shoot is moving through the environment with the camera on a gimbal.
@@JimPaul0627 I’ve had some success with SCinetone in various automatic modes. The slog seems to lock out auto or else I’m missing something (which is totally possible given only a few days of use from a long time Canon user).
Love the confidence and pace. As a new buyer to the Sony A line, this is awesome.
I just set to +1.7. Never had a problem.
the best video i've seen on this so far. deeply grateful
You summarized my issues within the first 30 second. Appreciate the content bro!
Sean...I don't shoot video very often so I tend to forget where I have my settings. I was doing a shoot mid-day sun and we decided to do some video, I shot in S-Log3. I had my Zebras set to 56+\- 3 (unknowingly, I adjusted my VND accordingly). I had forgotten that this is the setting for skin tones, but I adjusted it to not clip the sky (94+). Of course, the video was underexposed. However, it actually turned out fine when I fixed the exposure in post. One thing that I really cool that I don't hear a lot of people talk about with the newer Sony's (i.e. A7iv and newer) is Flexible Exposure Mode. This is a great run & gun tool.
Finally, I have found a channel that teaches me how to use my camera correctly. I am very grateful for this. Thank you very much! 🙏👏👍
Glad you found it helpful 🤙
Lots of GREAT info in here. For simplicity, I still prefer to shoot in a modified PP. Lately, I've even reverted to (audible gasp) 8-bit to save on storage space. I've found zero difference in 10-bit vs. 8-bit for non-LOG footage. But for those that want to maximize dynamic range, SLOG3 is amazing.
No gasp needed, 8-bit can look incredible if you nail exposure and white balance which is good practice in general in my opinion
What pp are you using?
Share the lut ❤
Best channel by far. Everything I know pretty much learned from you videos, just wanted to say a big thank you! And just an idea for maybe a few minutes Christmas video? I personally dealing with real estate videos.Myself included, but I know, there are thousands and thousands of people waiting for a "how to properly expose slog 3 for real estate" video, where you have overexposed windows and mixed lighting sometimes. It would benefit a lot of people. Thanks again, keep up the good work!
Dude! This is an insanly well thought out way to teach this! Sending this to my video friends.
That's awesome!
Dude….I’ve been watching this channel for a while. You’re work is killer. This video is literally just what I needed. Works like a charm. I can’t thank you enough Bro. Superb presentation.
This was very clear and detailed.
In most situations I like to use false color just because it allows me to see different exposure values at once.
I also tend to follow the Sony recommended values for skin tones with cacausian skin topping out at 52 or 53% especially for interview/talking head settings. I find 70 to be too high in most situations.
Great video overall! 👍 👍
The simplest way to work with slog footage thanks for making this video MUCH APPRECIATED 🔥
I have one word for you : "You are amazing" sorry that was three, but I guess you deserve more than one 🔥
one of my favourite channels on RUclips! I've been using Canon for a while and love my R8 but I also just got a Sony ZVe10 and wanted to try out the Sony APSC System. This helped a lot, thank you!
Thank you, that was cool of you to say. Enjoy the e10 (love that camera)
Another excellent and well organized video, Sean! This is right up my alley 🤩 For each of your videos I learn something new. Thank you so much!!
Lars!!! Much love to you
THANKS for producing this.
No problem at all
I knew about zebras roughly but this really helped me understand exposure on my a7CII way more thank you!
This video was needed I started my sports channel and bought the Sony a7iv tried shooting at low light with ISO 350 and the footage came out soo grainy I couldn't even fix it in post, now I just film at Auto as I'm too scared to mess it all up again. I did manage to get decent quality shooting at iso 450 and you definitely get more flexibility with colour grading shooting at that settings, I will keep experimenting until I get it right, thanks for the video and keep up the great content. 💥
The best video i found on RUclips about this. Thanks a lot! Amazing job.
Crazy video!!!! How well have you explained it man! Love it. Will complete watching most of your channel videos by tomorrow. Cheers, You've got a new fan!❤
I kinda do something similar for exposure. I use the histogram & adjust until it isn't clipping or stacking to the right while leaving the zebra at 100. Haven't had issues but will try this out
Thank you for this. I have been shooting for years and is so intimidated by S-Log 3. I’ve shot in it before but in post, when I edit it doesn’t look good.
Let me know how this method treats ya (I think you'll be an SLOG3 fan in no-time...)
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥 It's very easy to follow! Great video. I can't wait until this process! Thank you!
You got this!
Wow, thanks for explaining that in such great detail and thanks for the free exposure guide. YOU ROCK!!
Thanks and it's good to hear that it was helpful
The reason people suggest you overexpose SLOG 3 is so that the noise is less noticeable. For example: If I overexpose a video on my a6700 by 2 stops without clipping highlights at iso 800, (adjusting everything else to overexpose), and then bring the exposure down by two stops in the first node in Davinci Resolve. I will have a cleaner image than exposing for the middle.
I'm not sure why you had to do all those extra adjustments to get it to look the same. In resolve all I have to do is set up a colour managed workflow and choose my input colour space, then use the hdr wheels to bring the exposure down by however many stops I overexposed.
Excellent, perfect, the best content on s log 3 I ve seen. Thank you
Oh?!?! Love to hear that
Hey, bro. This video is detailed and answers all my questions about the topic. It's exactly what I was looking for on RUclips.
That is great to hear, love that and happy that I was able to help
Super well explained, thank you very much for sharing
Thank you 🤙
Dude you are an absolute legend! Thank you
Thank you and got your back
WOW thank you so much bro, really helped. I've been with your channel from the start, you helped me setup my a7IV and not long ago my a6700.
Appreciate you big time, thanks for the note and for being a part of the channel
Using a lut on your monitor helps with exposure also false colors on with your lut applied and bam you get perfect exposures
Boom!
So in/on cam should you dial in exposure before activating the "imported sony lut" for your preview?
@@tictechtone I always have my lut on as I work my settings
@@Menosfilms thanks for the response man! it was one of the last things I needed to figure out b4 trying all this for the first time lol, really appreciate it had me stumped (new to this game)
Nice work Sean, you’re a good teacher, keep it up.
Thanks Sean, excellent resource. You’ve earned my sub 🤙
Awesome and welcome to the channel
Great stuff hear Sean! thanks a ton for bringing so much knowledge and clarity to the topic.
This is all well and good unless you don't want noise in your shadows. Your method here requires using ISO values between the base ISOs (800 or 12800). That results in a lot of noise in the shadows. I think some of the other Alpha series cameras have internal noise reduction, but on the FX3, for example, avoiding a lot of noise means staying at 800 or 12800. Moreover, if you have to shoot at 12800 to properly expose a fairly dark scene, you'll still see some noise in the shadows unless you overexpose by about two stops and sacrifice some detail in the highlights. So on the FX3 this might be a good approach for situations where you have a fast prime lens and can stay at 800 ISO, but otherwise it means too much noise.
Always amazing. Thats Sean. Love the LUTS by the way. its a great buy and thanks for putting in the work. Cheers!
Made my day, thanks for this
Excellent video, very well explained and produced. Thanks
Perfect…..excellent work and I thank you for sharing it ❤
You got it!
Quick note on the overexposing method: using ISO in camera isn’t technically changing your exposure. This won’t increase the amount of light hitting the sensor. Raising ISO in digital cameras is considered a post process and isn’t much different than lifting the exposure slider in your editing software of choice. Sony cameras do tend to look better if you actually overexpose a bit but at the end of the day, finding the right workflow for you is definitely what’s most important and your method looks great!
🎉🎉Great info. Clear, simple and to the point. Thanks for sharing 🎉🎉
Thanks for watching - all the best
Thanks so much for this video! I really appreciate it.
I’m so glad you found the video helpful! Your support means a lot to me.
This was a fantastic video. Very well done. Tremendous value. Bravo.
Awesome - settings also works on ZV-E10 II :)
Good stuff. On my watching list. I need to learn once and for all. For some reason even after applying the LUTs my skin lacks detail and looks weird. I will follow your method and see if I can finally nail S-Log exposure and post.
Cool - let me know how that goes please
Hey Sean. Love your channel! JUST FYI: I signed up for your free exposure guide. In case anyone is having the same issue, in Mac Mail, your emails are going to the junk folder.
Thank you, I'm glad to hear that you like the channel. VERY odd on that, I took at look at my deliverability stats on the backend and everything looks good but I imagine there would be a situation like this or two that come up. I appreciate the heads up on this, Rich, thank you
Sean I am sharing this vid to my a6700 group. Thanks for putting it another banger!
That is so cool of you, glad you found it valuable
Wow it's blow my mind! I sooooo happy to se You'r channel and I limitedly subscribe! its so.... simple and fast! My MAN! Great work!!!!!
Thank you for the detailed explanation. As a beginner, I've been having trouble with my footage. After setting up the custom zebras, do you set your metering mode to multi or spot? Also, do you use the same method in run-and-gun situations?
Great vid thanks for sharing. Perhaps you can comment on how this would work in a low light setting as with slog3 a lot of grain is introduced.
Same exact methods for low light, works like a charm 🤙
Premier pro now has an option that automatically converts log to rec 709, super handy!
thanks a lot! I learned new things and follow your videos closely
Man this info is gold! Muchas gracias!
Great video! So when you are looking at the monitor with the zebras, is the monitor with zebras showing slog or with the lut applied?
Figure this out?
Bro, I definitely needed this. Thank you so much.
I really appreciate your videos thanks for sharing!
No problem - thanks for the note
I tend to leave things at defaults as much as I can and customise only what I need.
So instead of overwriting PP1 I checked my Sony's settings and PP8 already is defined as S-Log3+Cine. 🙂
Awesome tutorial - looking forward to giving this a go. Brilliant channel - subbed!
Thank You! Learning so much from you!
Appreciate you, Peter - glad I’ve been able to help 🤙
In a run-n-gun situation, I tend over expose SLog3 by +1.7 using the spot metering (spot on your target subject) in-camera has always worked for me. The Zebras seem like a better option, but if you have to update zebra values using that chart everytime you are changing subjects then it's not efficient for me, also, changing ISO values degrades the picture quality as opposed to sticking to the base ISO (like when using the FX3 with CineEI Slog3) and increasing/decreasing lighting (assuming that you can control the light)
Great content which I have ever seen from RUclips. You have done a clear and simple explanation about the point.
Will it be a good idea to set these zebra values in a Sony a7riii, which is an 8 bit camera
Is Zebra values same for Slog 2 and Slog3 or Is it different for both?.
Great information. Love from India
Thank You so much for the video
Such a good video man! I see you rocking that ASRV Hoodie aswell, bro got style!
My man, thank you and I guess it takes one to know one re:ASRV
I tend to use Pike’s LUTs and the exposure LUTs help me. He also says to expose the skin to 41IRE
This is exactly what i need sir thankyou?
You got it!
great effort and great video! thank you
you made it easy to understand, thumbs up
Bravo et Merci!
A great video, thank you. You asked for some comments so here goes.
1) I want to deliver to HDR, seems crazy to downscale to Rec.709, and have the right equipment, how can I get a LUT for that for the SLog 3 setting?
Is it not available due to camera screen not being HDR capable?
2) Try low light using HLG 3 and in general, the ease of use and delivery is light years easier.
Your thoughts on this would be great.
An excellent methodology.
I’d love to see you do a run and gun setup and process, best Profile and exposure settings and techniques.
Lastly, going back to my dislike of downscaling to Rec.709, I’m surprised at the slow take-up of HDR given the following:
a) RUclips and Vimeo have really upgraded their ability to detect the user device capabilities to display HDR or only Rec.709
b) Most phones, iPads, tablets, TV’s can now display HDR
c) Editing in HDR is now possible using similar devices
All of the above said, am I missing something, probably.
Brilliant work by you, thank you.
Thank you , I'm glad you liked it. Appreciate the notes/questions as well.
A few thoughts:
- I don't have a ton of experience with HDR so I won't have a lot to say here, but it sounds like you have a really strong base
- Regarding run and gun, I use the exact methods from this video. In my experience, memorizing the chart along with the right custom buttons/settings on the camera results in some really fast and accurate adjustments?
@@seandewispelaere thanks for taking the time out to reply, I would never expect one because there are so many comments and I’m assuming you do have a life outside of RUclips. Keep them coming mate.
@@Coatsey007 All good and I love connecting with you guys 💯
Great video but have two questions for studio talking head shoots: 1. Would holding a WB card in front of your talent’s face and zebra exposing to bright white 85 work rather than second guessing skin tone colour? 2. Under controlled studio lighting are there still advantages to film in s-log3 rather than s-cinetone?
Thank you
1. I'd just expose the skin tone, but they'd both accomplish the same thing
2. I just like S-LOG3, both are great
Just load neutral -2EV LUT to your camera and you’ll always will nail the exposure
I do not know how FF Sony cameras handle normal “0EV”exposed slog3, but crop sensor like FX30 is VERY NOISY at 0EV in the shadows. So -2EV LUT is very handy every time I use SLOG3
Excellent video. Thank you!
Appreciate that and right back at ya
Thanks for this. Great explanation. I've watched a number of videos and this is one of the best on this topic. Are you applying the LUTS to an adjustment layer(s) or directly to the clip?
It really depends on the camera. FS7 Overexpose, FX6 overexpose about .5 to 1 stop, especially with iso 12000 I would go close to 1 stop if possible. If there is strong backlight then don't go past .5. FX9 overexpose about .5 to 1 similar with the FX6 watch how bright the background is. A7S3 overexpose .5 stops unless you have a bright background, if you do, don't over expose. Same with A74 but it handles highlights better than A7S3. The reason you over expose all of these cameras is to get a clean noise level. Sony cameras have really good highlight retention, better than most including Canon but the shadows can be noisy if not over exposed so to get the most out of it, overexpose. Now the Sony Burano you don't have to over expose. This camera is the only one that truly breaks the mold. It's super clean and has awesome highlight roll off and great shadow detail. It also has great recovery so far only beaten by the Arri 35 according to the Cinema5D test. With the Burano you expose normally unless you want to push or pull one way for extreme scenes.
this is a BANGER! thanks bro
Made my day 💯
@@seandewispelaere you give me more confidence shooting in LOG. I always go back n forth between no picture profile and Slog-3 and now I have more confidence to shoot all my productions in LOG
Have you thought of moving over to Davinci Resolve, as they have the best color grading of all the top editors?
Just curious and love your vids man!
Thanks Master!
You bet!
I like the better, HS quality format. It is H265 which chokes my PC, so I record proxy files in-body 👍🏻
Also, with HS you can do 10 bit without having to do 4:2:2, which the extra data gets thrown out anyway, in broadcast or YT
Great video! I do a lot of real estate videos, what would you recommend I keep zebra levels at to help keep details in bright windows?
What no one tells you about 10bit, you need specific software to grade that footage. The price is also high if you're used to using software's like Davinci
Thanks for the video! Very informative and kinda easy to understand. It feels like I'm your friend, I like that. :D
outstanding video!
Thank you!
Thank you for the info keep it comin !!
Will do 💯