FX3'S New update - Base ISO 800(CINE EI only) & 12800 :) Here's the official Sony Cine article for you SLOG overexposers out there ;) sonycine.com/articles/how-correctly-expose-s-log3---a7s-iii---fx3---fx6---fx9/
@@sobolevskys recent fx3 update they had changed it to 800 base iso. Cine EI mode. They finally made the two cameras a little different even if they have the same sensor. Source: my fx3. Check out all the videos about the new FX3 update as well.
@@hootu yeah, if I’m not mistaken, a7siii is still 640 unless they changed it to 800 on a recent update. The FX3 used to be 640 but they changed it with the new update.
There is kinda misunderstanding regarding the topics at hand... first is the "overexposure". Technically speaking, if we are to go by what Sony recommends for Slog3 which is exposing middle grey to 41%, exposing the skin to 65-70 IRE is already overexposing it already to more than 1 stop, and even reaching 2 stops overexposure. The reason why we "don't want" to overexpose is because by exposing the middle grey to more than 41%, we are not maximizing the dynamic range of the camera anymore. But if you watch other videos such as Gerald Undone, they measured the A7s3 and A74 at around 13 stops of dynamic range. That's a lot of dynamic range compared to Canon's which is only at around 11 stops in these camera price range. So with that, its really fine to overexpose it in relation to Sony's recommended exposure of middle grey which is at 41%. Why would you still want to overexpose it? The reason for overexposure is the noise floor. Exposing your middle grey to 41% willl most likely put your shadows into the noise floor, thus the final output will be noisier especially that exposing a human subject at 41% will mean you need to adjust the exposure on post, thus being more noisier. If you expose it at 1.7 stops higher than 41%, at around 55% IRE on the skin tone, you are now exposing your shadows farther from the noise floor, thus your image being clean. And yes, you are misunderstanding the 1.7 stops overexposure that many of the youtubers are talking about. It is actually pertaining to the middle grey which I talked about. So when they say overexpose Slog3 at 1.7 stops higher, they are not pertaining to the metering of your camera, but rather they are talking about Sony's recommended exposure of middle grey. Second is what Joel Mulder have explained regarding the exposure of skintones, which depends on the ethnicity so depending on the ethnicity of the human subject, it goes around 45IRE to around 70IRE as what Joel Mulder have mentioned
yep... and how often do we need 13 stops of DR? How many scenes need to keep middle grey point to 41% & maximize for stops above and below middle grey? Almost never. In this regard, exposure is an art and not a science
@@TylerMcCool Please re-read my comment. I even said that its fine to overexpose it... BUT, you really dont need to with the newer Sony 10bit cameras, as long as you can properly expose the image using native ISO. Properly exposing the image using native ISO would mean that you will be get the cleanest possible image because native ISO is the cleanest and with proper exposure, you won't raise up the exposure on post, which would result to raising the noise floor on post. The only reason why you would overexpose an image (again, not by raising ISO cause that will raise the noise floor)) a stop higher than middle grey is because when lowering exposure on post, you would also lower the noise floor. Anyways, to answer your question regarding the "need to keep", its really not the need, but rather, by capturing your images using these guidelines, you will have more information captured and you will not be that limited on color grading because you will have more leeway on post
you read my comment as a critique? ok.. and yes I'm aware, been shooting on fx9 commercially going on 3 years @@426Studios (many people have a very wrong idea when it comes to what is 'overexposed') best
@@426Studios Agree with your comment. I find that the video is a little bit misleading. Another thing is relying on the metering numbers is a no no. Histogram is more accurate because it reads the whole image. In a pinch, you can go past zebra and still have the histogram within the safe range.
But for run and gun shooting where you may have to use ISOs higher than the base ones and you introduce more noise, if your trying to reduce that noise level in your shadows in post, would you still recommend to overexpose?
Sony A7 IV User: I'd say the best way to expose SLog3 is setting your Zebra to 94+. As long as you stay under this level you'll have an awesome image. ISO 800, 3200, 12800 are the best values. Then play around between +1.0 and +2.0. For High Contrast Sceneries I like to go up to +1.7 or +2.0 (not blinking) so I have much more information in the shadows. If there are people in the image try to expose them correctly because the viewer will pay most of the attention to them. Of course 4K 4:2:2 is a must. Framerate depends on the project you're shooting. 24fps for most cinematic look, 25 or 30 for broadcast (depends on where you are living), 60 for ultra smooth actions (nice for dance performances)
25 it's the same as 24, you can't tell the difference. both are "Cinematic", broadcast look start at 30fps not 25. You just decide between 24/25 purely based on your location that you are living.
@@jmfrokka2354 94 is the value where SLog3 clips. If your monitor doesn't support 94 zebra level find your best work around yourself. I'd just set the cameras Zebra to 94+. Expose the image in the camera correctly. Use the monitor to check your frame, not to check your exposure.
I am new to videography, but I am a professional photographer. I’m trying to teach myself videography and since I have the Sony A7iv why not learn with it. Now I am using LumaFusion on my iPad Pro with the M1 chip and I watched another video that shows to do your exposure at least +1.7 to +2.0 and I was not liking the results after color grading. And now since watching this video I just tested it out and I am really happy with the results with skin tones using +0.7. And your video really showed on all three exposures the difference so I couldn’t wait to try it out. I’m so glad I found your video thank you so much for taking the time. It’s greatly appreciated
Keep in mind that the Base ISO will differ depending on which camera you're using. On m A1, the two base ISOs are 800 and 4000. If you're not sure, go to a dim room, and look at the shadows as you crank the ISO from 800. At a certain point, it should clean up and that's your second base. This is helpful because shooting at 4000 is going to produce much cleaner results than shooting at 3200.
Keep in mind skintone IRE depends on the kind of skintone. Darker skintones will have a lower ideal IRE (as low as 42), while lighter skintones can be up to around 78. It also depends on reflectance, which is something to keep in mind.
@@k-qp2nv being “mixed race” says nothing about skin tone. One can be mixed race African American and have a dark complexion, or not. Or one can be mixed race East Asian European and have an entirely different complexion. Light doesn’t care about which country your parents are from, only how much melanin is in your skin, so use an appropriate value between IRE 42-ish and 78-ish.
I recently came across your RUclips video on exposing S-Log3, and I wanted to take a moment to express my gratitude. Your insights and explanations were incredibly informative, and I feel like I've gained a much better understanding of how to make the most out of S-Log3. Your enthusiasm and clear communication style really made the topic accessible, and I appreciate the effort you put into breaking down the complexities of S-Log3. It's evident that you're passionate about sharing your knowledge, and it's been incredibly helpful for someone like me who is still navigating the intricacies of this feature. Your video has given me a renewed sense of hope and confidence when working with S-Log3, and I can't thank you enough for that. Consider me a new subscriber - I'm looking forward to more insightful content from your channel! Once again, thank you, Victor! Keep up the fantastic work.
The best SLOG3 explanation I've come across! Feel more confident with exposing in this picture profile as things were always a hassle previously. Thank you for this video!
OMG... finallyyyy... I find a video where I really understand exposure on Sony a74 while using slog3.. I even bought a few LUTs and still couldn't get desired results and after watching and understanding this.. BOOM... I finally get the desired results.. Thank you so much...
I’ve used it before, and I believe my problem is what I’ve came to your channel for. Understanding how to expose for it. I’ve been trying to wing it a bit of what I know a little that I’ve learned, but you’ve broke it down so much better than what I’ve heard recently. Thanks so much, Victor! Really appreciate you!
Thanks very much. I came to an A7iv from a BMPCC 4k and blindly followed online advice to aim for +1.7. The footage always seemed a bit too hot for my liking in post and now I understand that in 10bit I can back-off the exposure and get a better end result.
Subbed! Been exposing my shots in +1.7 ~ +2.0 forever and was never satisfied with it on post-editing. Little did I know newer Sony cameras has more dynamic range from +0.3~+1.0.
Your thumbnails are works of art and these vids are so informative! Preordered the FX30 and am super excited to take my vids here on RUclips to the next level. Will be watching lots of your videos while I learn everything about this new camera
Thank you, Kelsey! The FX30 is a great upgrade!! If you do have any specific questions outside of what is covered in the videos, feel free to reach out :)
@@VictorLafortezadoes this discussion apply to the fx30? Cause a lot of the videos on RUclips say to overexpose 1.7+2.0 for that camera but I haven't exactly been happy with how far I need to push my footage back in post it feels unnecessary tbh especially in day light
@@paperstacksfilms fx30 you’d still need to exposure to the right at 1.7. Check out my comparison between the fx30 and a6700 to see an extensive test of how to expose slog3 on both cameras
This is super helpful, especially seeing them side by side -- you can really see the image quality and clarity/accuracy difference between the three. Always struggled with getting SLOG3 exposed properly (A73), but now have the 4, so I'm going to try these recommendations!
If you still use the A7III always use slog2 instead, there is no increase in dynamic range between the two and the 8 bit codec is not suitable for slog3. That in combination with ITU709Matrix will give you the best color and dynamic range on the A7III ;) (Check out Caleb Pikes video for why).
Well this is an eye opener ! I have also been trying to keep the exposure at 1.7 to 2.0, and have always been blowing out the highlights and to be honest, it drove me crazy to the point I resorted to S-Cinetone as I was missing out on footage of my newly born daughter. Yes I a novice, but everything else is going perfectly I just couldn't nail SLOG3. THANK YOU !! I will give this a go ..
And there you have it. I did a load of footage this BH weekend just gone, kept it to between MM0 and +1.0 max, edited the footage in FCPX using a good simple converter LUT and it looks perfect ! colours are good, no blown out highlights and this goes for indoors AND outdoors. This is the best footage I have achieved since trying SLOG3 four months ago, so this just proves it ! well it does to me anyway. Good luck everyone !
Have been trying out Slog3 more recently and always struggling to expose it. I was always going crazy to achieve +1.7 and I'm glad to know it's not neccessary!
It's amazing how I've watched hundreds of videos on exposing slog3 properly and this is the first video that I feel really gave practical information that I can actually use to get things exposed properly on the fly. Almost every other video basically just says get an external monitor.
Really glad to hear that! An external monitor is great but not everyone has it and i wanted to share the knowledge I have to expose it just with the camera 🙌🏽
I’m not a Slog user. I shoot lumix Vlog but learning is learning, great information and examples from you that will help me and anyone else continuing to grow
I haven't used SLOG3 just yet, just getting down all the movements and basics of videos. This video helped a ton, especially for someone who is still kind of new to video.
Step by step brother!! Once you nail those movements and basics, get to some color grading stuff like the black magic free training. SLOG3 is quite a beast to master. Keep at it mate!
Hey victor. This helps when you have the camera right in front of you and using a window. What if you have a softbox and LED you are lighting yourself with. How do you know how bright to make the LED, vs changing the aperture or shooting wide open at 1.4 and trying to expose for t talking heads with actual light
I pretty much do the same thing with my talking heads with actual lights! You basically try to make sure you're not wide open unless you really want a shallow depth of field with your talking heads. With enough light usually it should read around +1 on the metering. Depends on which light you use but for a 60w light its usually around 50-60% with a softbox. You can see it on my other recent videos.
I always stick to SLOG3, but have always been exposing to +2. Honestly haven’t been getting the best results in terms of grading. I’ll give +0.7 a shot!
I've stupidly overexposed my new A7iv like my old A7iii 8 bit by 1-2 stops over... looked too bright and amateurish. With this guide I've nailed it and even sometimes exposed for the highlights (meter even went to -0.3 to -0.7 at times) but it gave it that old school moody look. Thank you again for this video! Wished it came out way earlier to help me
Great video dude! Glad I subbed! I've only started using SLOG3 and still learning to use it. Grateful for content creators like you to show us ways to expose SLOG3!
I ended up setting my A7IV exposure to +1.7 because I watched a few RUclips videos… was working with really overexposed imagery but coming from 8bit it was still impressive the amount I could fix in post.
This is by far the most comprehensive explanation i watched. It almost answers all I needed to know. I only have one unanswered question. Which metering mode do you use and to which situation will you use it. Thanks in advance for the answer 😊😊
Sure this may be helpful when it comes to color correcting and save time if someone isn't good at it, but in reality overexposing all the way to zebra limit for slog3 and then backing off (sometimes this even puts exposure above +2) gives you the most latitude and can generate the exact same result as the comparison videos with the +0.7. It's all about how good someone is in post, but this is a good tutorial for people who aren't at least at the intermediate level in color correcting or grading (since they wont need to spend as much time to make skin tones or whatever they are exposing for look good).
As mentioned in the video this is more like a guideline and made for beginners to expose well in their attempt to use slog3. It’s 100% to expose to the right before but not needed anymore with newer Sony cameras. It also comes down to taste. You simply change where the latitude is covered from where you expose it. If you expose to the right (i.e. +2) you’ll get more latitude for shadows but cut down the latitude for highlights. The latitude range almost never changes unless you clip one end, it gets translated to how you expose. For me, this is the best way I like the highlights. A camera cannot generate more dynamic range by just overexposing, you always pick and choose what you value more - shadows or highlights. To actually get the full latitude of a camera that’s where you put in the lighting conversation. I’ve gotten great results pushing and pulling in post like my other videos. You could say otherwise and I know over exposing still works with good post production skills. At the end of the day, it’s an easier method to get into slog3 workflow and it’s not as daunting for beginners anymore.
@@VictorLaforteza With respect to log curves, this is true to an extent, but for more advanced users, we can pry apart that compressed highlight range and "get more data" out of it (a better way of saying this might be to "unpack it" better) than a beginner. But this is definitely an easier method for beginners; I can't argue with that. 👍
great video. love it. i have zv-e1. I wonder, whether I shoot portraits, or indoors or outdoors landscapes, should I always keep my zebras at 70% ? yesterday I shot some landscapes with 95% Zebra and notice that sky and highlight areas have lost their color and details. please guide if you can. thank you.
Try dialing down the exposure just before the zebras show up! That way you're exposing the the top range of the highlights instead of it losing details due to over exposure
to be honest i tried anything below +1.7 and its still dark i still recommend +1.7 or +1.3 exposure compensation. family and friends told me my footage looks dark and claustrophobic
Hi Victor, I’m New shooting in my SonyFX30 can you tell me how to set shortcuts to control Shutter speed, ISO and Zebras so I can expose Correctly. Thank you so much I enjoyed your video!
I have a dedicated video for it! "cinematic settings for FX30" :) also this video only applies to the full frame cameras. You'd still need to expose to the right with the FX30 with roughly +1.3 or +1.7
Thank you very helpful! I was constantly trying to get to 1.7 but then id change situation and it would immediately be overexposed.. nice to know I can get away with having metering on a lower level
I’ve always loved s-log 3 and getting that perfect exposure at night was sometimes a challenge. So using the highlight metering mode is something new to me but I’ll definitely be using that for night time. Thanks so much!
Dude, thank you for explaining this. I’ve had a real hard time as a beginner in video understanding this. But you helped me get a handle on it. What seems to be nice about slog3 is it’s a lot of set it and forget it. Set your iso and shutter speed, and only worry about your aperture and nd filter to get proper exposure. I do kind of wish the a7iv had a slightly higher base iso for night time shooting for slog3, like 6400 or something. Either way, it still looks amazing.
I'm glad it helped you, Eric! It's definitely a beast to master but with more time and testing, it's one of the best profiles to use! I wish it had 6400 as well for it's 2nd base ISO but 3200 can work with a fast prime lens! But again that's another limitation that requires $$$ to be fixed.
@@VictorLaforteza That’s quite true! I’ve found my 24-70 2.8 works pretty good in most low light situations at 3200 with the giant sensor, but I think eventually I’ll get a prime with an even faster aperture for those situations!
Hi, Victor. I'm one of the new guys you mentioned: New to videography & new to the a7iv. And as you predicted, I learned a lot from this video so that I think I can give SLog3 a try now. But admittedly, it was too daunting before I watched your "this-is-how-you-do-it" video. I noticed from your YT Channel Home that you are doing a lot of a7iv topics, which I need desperately, so I subscribed & belled. Thanks for pulling me out of the fog and into S-log. Yeah, you can quote me on that- AFAIK, it's original. :-)
Definitely a tough one for new Sony owners! It’s a process to learn and the best part is the journey of getting there! Glad the video was helpful! Any questions at all, just ask! You can also join the discord group where our little community is situated 🙌🏽
This was super helpful Victor, such an easy explanation with examples. I'm currently using SLOG3 on my A7IV mainly during outdoor docu shots and indoor talking heads and your video helped me to better understand what I'm doing behind the camera. Thx - Balint
@@danielerskine6216 I have set the temperature threshold to high in the settings and I never had a problem with overheating since then. Also, I rarely use 60 fps on my works. But when I do, I usually use the 20mm f1.8 and the crop is not a problem anymore.
This should be used if you want the best exposure out of camera with little post work. The whole point of Slog is to get the cleanest noise free image. That’s why you over expose and then bring it down in post to bury the noise. This is also why the dynamic range has to be excellent as to save the highlights which you then recover in post and also why it’s tricky to sometimes get the correct exposure cause you may clip the highlights. Don’t think you should be using slog if you’re not willing to put the post work in. S Cinetone is best alternative 👌🏻
You simply don't need to over expose that much anymore as the noise floor is much better on newer Sony cameras. You can see the official Sony Cine guide here -sonycine.com/articles/how-correctly-expose-s-log3---a7s-iii---fx3---fx6---fx9/ "The a7S III/FX3/FX6/FX9 are all low noise cameras. There is no need to expose these cameras any brighter than the Sony recommended levels for most normal scenes" 👍I've been exposing normally since the a7siii and I've never had issues with noise. The dynamic range is retained rather than shifted all the way to the highlights.
@@VictorLaforteza I wonder if A7RV with sort of more punishing sensor noise wise (to much pixels) will also be this forgiving. I Love WYSIWYG concept and S-log while i love HDR scares crap out of me having to expose a scene all the way to 'to white' to then draw back, you dont even see if it was good.
thank you, I've been looking for a solution for shooting in slog, I always shoot slog with auto ISO and expose it to +2, but in post I'm not satisfy with the out come. I will this method and thank you for sharing.
Hi Victor, I would like to ask you a question. I am an FX30 owner and shoot football sports videos. Out of many slog tutorials this one is helping me the most! So in the meantime: thank you! My question is this: putting an exposure between +0.03 and +1 (on the MM) and following your advice, I go very high with the ISO (however there is not much noise). How far do you advise me to go in terms of iso in order not to "damage" the fotage?
in my experience at around 3200 is my max. I'd always use 800 or 2500 though for the best image possible! For the FX30, it actually needs more light in. I'd say expose for +1 to +1.3 most of the time and then bring it down in post to balance the exposure.
Well i'm using the New Sony FX30 and i use Slog3 as well i love it.. If you don't expose correctly with it and then try to apply your Slog3 to rec709 Lut, then it will look bad and make it harder to exposure and color grade, but i normally look at the waveform and make sure the highest it goes is no higher then 65 to70 percent. this way i can recover if something was wrong.. although i wish there was a slog3 to rec709 that wasn't so harsh because it think that LUT over does it, and doesn't look exactly like it was looking when i applied the monitor LUT to see what it will look like when i apply my LUT in Adobe Premier Pro, for some reasly actually applying the LUT in Premier is a bit more harsh on shadows. As i said i wish they was a LUT out there that was like Rec709 but not so harsh on the shadows..
Dude same here, I hate Sony's conversion kit for slog3 it comes out way to contrasty. I end up going with the arri standard 709 lut in premiere gives me a better starting point with the image. I have been struggling with skin tones and trying to get the mm to 1.7-2.0 while not overexposing the image. It's not easy. I'm still getting used to colorgrading with 10bit so I might try using this technique but I feel like getting better at colorgrading is the better bet because the overexposjre rule is to allow the most latitude in post
I shoot real estate and have been exposing to 1.7. It causes the windows to be blown out. I'd basically retain more of the highlights from the windows with just shooting at 0-0.7??
How about using Zebras at 95 to pick up clipped areas of the scene (supposedly SLog3 clips at 94) ? That is my favored technique- making sure I do not blow out any areas that I need detail in? I tend to overexpose a bit if possible to allow me to pull the exposure down in post to reduce shadow noise.
Extremely helpful. Many thanks! I’d appreciate some insight on real estate videography, for interiors; WB and recommended settings. I’m planning to buy the a7iv just for videos. Thanks again.
So if you DO have an 8 bit camera (zv-e10) should we still overexpose to 1.7-2 (not blinking) then? Super new to all of this and trying to figure out how to shoot in slog 3 on my camera in a vlogging situation where I'm dealing with different lighting and conditions
Wonderful video Victor! Thank you for providing your knowledge! Just bought a Sony A7s III and will start using S-LOG3 for the first time ever. Very excited to start this journey,.
Very welcome man! Make sure to use ISO 640 or 12800 since that’s the Base SLOG3 ISO for the a7siii! I forgot to include it in the video 😅😅 enjoy slog3! Practice lots!
@@VictorLaforteza Wonderful! Thank you so much for much! Subscribed! Keep those awesome videos coming! Would love to see more videos showing how to work with the Siii :) Maybe an entire workflow video from Setting up the camera, exposing, shooting, editing. =) Thank you!
Hi Victor, how much overexposure for the a6700? I am trying to achieve the look you have when you made your video's on instagram using the 6700. Also would i use 70 zebras on the 6700? Thanks so much🙏🏻
Forgot to add to the initial comment to still expose around +1.3 and +1.7 for the a6700. You can also follow some fx3 tutorials for flexible iso. It’ll be the same as the a6700
This explanation helped me quite a bit. A related question, about zebra settings: You describe a 70 +-5 setting with an example of lighter skin. What should be the baseline for dark skin?
I'd say 55-60 +-5 would give you a good baseline. I often times just try to expose 70 +-5 regardless as I can just bring it down in post for darker skin to match it's actual IRE levels.
Really cool video. When it comes to exposing Slog 3, it seems to be some sort of question of faith. So far, I always tried to follow the guidelines of the phantom luts. For skintones it's 56 Ire +-3, some others tweaked those settings even lower to 50 +-2 . Others add 15% to you standard IRE value. I don't know ... I will test your approach, cause 70 IRE does make sense. Another question: what kind of overlay do you use in this video to get this RGB effect on the corners? Thank you 💓
Yeah it's all about testing! Sony's official for skintones is 56 as well! I just like the flexibility in post especially for run and gun or time constraint shoots. Definitely test what works best for your workflow! :) The RGB effect is a prism blur on davinci resolve. I covered it in one of the editing videos "how to get the film look"
@@VictorLaforteza thank you so much for your fast and detailed answer. Didn't know, that 56 is the official Sony number. Well...I think I have to switch to DaVinci Resolve :)
I literally just bought my first ever camera for doing song covers in RUclips, and I'm planning to use it in slog3, I don't know, I don't have any lut packs and I'm super intimidated by using slog3, color correcting, etc.
You don't need that for cover songs to post on RUclips. High dynamic range is good for short films or advertising. If you're just planning to do cover songs only then an iphone will do the job or a 500$ canon will do it efficiently as long as you take care of lighting, hell an image with a videocam can look good if the light was good . I think you should spend more time on audio and decorations if you insist on recording it with a sony camera
10:50 Why would you increase the aperature? Isn't it better to have the lowest aperature possible (f1.4 in this case) with non native ISO rather than letting in less light? Why do you stick to 800/3200 so strictly?
You’ll introduce more noise and less dynamic range going outside 800/3200 for the a7iv. Depends on what you’re filming but filming at 1.4 has a super shallow depth of field. You don’t need to follow these guidelines so strictly. I’m just showing the best possible image and why they are. You can use non native ISOs especially if you’re shooting events with no control over lighting. I do it all the time for events and Denoise in post. It’s just best practice to stick with native ISO values imo.
Hi, thanks for sharing. Sorry, I am not sure if I am understanding this correctly. I am wondering why you reduced the exposure futher to match the display with gamma assist switch on? I thought this adjustment was for camera display only, ie only affecting the screen brightness?
for Gamma display assist it is actually showing you what it would look like at the end. It's applying a Sony REC.709 LUT and any adjustments will be reflected on the final image. Hope that helps!
is it the lens you're using to shoot your talking head thats causing the edges and corners to have a chromatic blur? i like that look if you can share some details. thanks!
Can you set your Zebras at 100% - and then dial up your exposure until you see zebras on an area that you still want to preserve detail?? That will let you over-expose the most while not loosing detail in blown out highlights... Just a thought
Hello Victor! Thank you for making great content. I recently purchased a Sony FX30 and the profile picture PP8 (which is the S-Log3 according to all the videos I have been watching) has disappeared. I am very new to this but do you know (or anyone seeing this comment) what is the alternative? THANK YOU!
it's called LOG shooting mode now! it should be under settings. Make sure to pick "flexible ISO" with the FX30 you still need to expose to +1.3 to +1.7 though as it needs more light in.
Victor, very helpful! Question. Is there a Native ISO for the FX30, irrespective of whether it's in Cine EI or SLOG 3? For example, if I'm punting to PP 11 (Cinetone) do I need to stay in a native ISO or can I use whatever ISO I desire for the situation at hand?
Very informative video!. And your footage always look sweet. Do you have advice for what would be the best high ISO value for underwater footage on the Sony A1?. I think the base goes to 100-400 and 500-a lot. I am going to go need to go pretty high because the low light, wondering if there are steps or values better than others.
Thank you! Unfortunately I have no experience with underwater :( I would say use the second base ISO and have a fast lens maybe 1.8 or 1.4 to get more light in
Hey there I am new to videography! In your daytime example, you set it to a lower exposure (800) since you don't need that much light sensitivity. Why is it that F16 is too high, I am trying to understand why we don't want to leave the F number at such a level. In your night time example, could you not have increased the aperture until you got the metering to +0.7. Why did you change the ISO to 3200 instead of cranking up the aperture. I think I need some understanding on when to adjust Aperture vs. ISO. Also, can we use these same concepts to do expose photography too? In case of photography how would you play with the shutter speed since there is no rule with the frames per second? I am absolutely loving the style of videography you do!
good questions! High aperture will introduce diffraction which will make the image softer! So ideally you gotta check when that starts to happen to a lens. It's different on every lens. for night time, you definitely can put the aperture to wide open but that means your depth of field will also be shallow so then we move on to the next best best thing would be the 2nd base ISO of 3200. Photography has more options since the shutter is now available to play with. Similar concepts but more forgiving if you go off from the guidelines. Hope that helps!
@@pavithbaskaranpb highlights are harsher in contrast to everything else at night. Since The sun is gone, there's nothing making the light even across the board.
Ahh dude! This was brilliant. Shooting an event next week that will be indoors at night, was nervous to use s-log3 but will give it a practice over the next few days! Appreciate the video!
@@VictorLaforteza what's your thoughts on 8bit slog2 compared to 10bit s-log3? I've got the a7c and was considering using it on a gimbal in slog2 to have a good variety of shots so I don't have to chop and change my fx3 rig to fit it on a gimbal.
@@gedreeves It's doable but definitely tough... I mean it's okay but you'll have to spend some time in post to match both cameras. HMMMM might be a good video idea to cover... I have to do some testing!
Wow this was so good!! Love you explained it. It helped me wrap my head around it ! I haven’t brought slog 3 to my event shootings becuase I play it safe. But excited on locking down that new beast setting !
You said there is no 120 or 48 on mirrorless cameras? But there is a setting for variable shutter speed down on decimal level? Shouldn’t then 24/48 or 60/120 be the optimal shutter speed?
Some cameras don’t have variable shutter. You don’t have to be so accurate since you won’t even notice the difference in shutter angle as they’re so close together so rounding is enough without the use of variable shutter speed.
I’ve been using slog 3 on my a7iv and I’ve been so close to getting the look I need maybe I need to use the conversion lut from Sony to the exact look or does it not matter?
Yes yes yes! You no longer should be over exposing +2 stops on the newer sony 10bit cameras. Honestly? If it looks good on your camera screen with gamma assist on, you will be ok in post. Just expose for the skin tones. This video is spot on!
FX3'S New update - Base ISO 800(CINE EI only) & 12800 :) Here's the official Sony Cine article for you SLOG overexposers out there ;) sonycine.com/articles/how-correctly-expose-s-log3---a7s-iii---fx3---fx6---fx9/
Are You sure ? FX3 and a7sIII are the same sensors, for a7sIII first of dual ISO is 640
@@sobolevskys recent fx3 update they had changed it to 800 base iso. Cine EI mode. They finally made the two cameras a little different even if they have the same sensor. Source: my fx3. Check out all the videos about the new FX3 update as well.
@@VictorLaforteza so A7S3 is 640 and 12800. My friend kept telling me its 800 and 12800.
@@hootu yeah, if I’m not mistaken, a7siii is still 640 unless they changed it to 800 on a recent update. The FX3 used to be 640 but they changed it with the new update.
love your explanation man! do you plan to make another video on CINE EI log shooting wit the update?
There is kinda misunderstanding regarding the topics at hand... first is the "overexposure". Technically speaking, if we are to go by what Sony recommends for Slog3 which is exposing middle grey to 41%, exposing the skin to 65-70 IRE is already overexposing it already to more than 1 stop, and even reaching 2 stops overexposure. The reason why we "don't want" to overexpose is because by exposing the middle grey to more than 41%, we are not maximizing the dynamic range of the camera anymore. But if you watch other videos such as Gerald Undone, they measured the A7s3 and A74 at around 13 stops of dynamic range. That's a lot of dynamic range compared to Canon's which is only at around 11 stops in these camera price range. So with that, its really fine to overexpose it in relation to Sony's recommended exposure of middle grey which is at 41%. Why would you still want to overexpose it? The reason for overexposure is the noise floor. Exposing your middle grey to 41% willl most likely put your shadows into the noise floor, thus the final output will be noisier especially that exposing a human subject at 41% will mean you need to adjust the exposure on post, thus being more noisier. If you expose it at 1.7 stops higher than 41%, at around 55% IRE on the skin tone, you are now exposing your shadows farther from the noise floor, thus your image being clean. And yes, you are misunderstanding the 1.7 stops overexposure that many of the youtubers are talking about. It is actually pertaining to the middle grey which I talked about. So when they say overexpose Slog3 at 1.7 stops higher, they are not pertaining to the metering of your camera, but rather they are talking about Sony's recommended exposure of middle grey. Second is what Joel Mulder have explained regarding the exposure of skintones, which depends on the ethnicity so depending on the ethnicity of the human subject, it goes around 45IRE to around 70IRE as what Joel Mulder have mentioned
yep... and how often do we need 13 stops of DR? How many scenes need to keep middle grey point to 41% & maximize for stops above and below middle grey? Almost never. In this regard, exposure is an art and not a science
@@TylerMcCool Please re-read my comment. I even said that its fine to overexpose it... BUT, you really dont need to with the newer Sony 10bit cameras, as long as you can properly expose the image using native ISO. Properly exposing the image using native ISO would mean that you will be get the cleanest possible image because native ISO is the cleanest and with proper exposure, you won't raise up the exposure on post, which would result to raising the noise floor on post. The only reason why you would overexpose an image (again, not by raising ISO cause that will raise the noise floor)) a stop higher than middle grey is because when lowering exposure on post, you would also lower the noise floor. Anyways, to answer your question regarding the "need to keep", its really not the need, but rather, by capturing your images using these guidelines, you will have more information captured and you will not be that limited on color grading because you will have more leeway on post
you read my comment as a critique? ok.. and yes I'm aware, been shooting on fx9 commercially going on 3 years @@426Studios (many people have a very wrong idea when it comes to what is 'overexposed') best
@@426Studios Agree with your comment. I find that the video is a little bit misleading. Another thing is relying on the metering numbers is a no no. Histogram is more accurate because it reads the whole image. In a pinch, you can go past zebra and still have the histogram within the safe range.
But for run and gun shooting where you may have to use ISOs higher than the base ones and you introduce more noise, if your trying to reduce that noise level in your shadows in post, would you still recommend to overexpose?
Sony A7 IV User:
I'd say the best way to expose SLog3 is setting your Zebra to 94+. As long as you stay under this level you'll have an awesome image. ISO 800, 3200, 12800 are the best values. Then play around between +1.0 and +2.0. For High Contrast Sceneries I like to go up to +1.7 or +2.0 (not blinking) so I have much more information in the shadows. If there are people in the image try to expose them correctly because the viewer will pay most of the attention to them.
Of course 4K 4:2:2 is a must. Framerate depends on the project you're shooting. 24fps for most cinematic look, 25 or 30 for broadcast (depends on where you are living), 60 for ultra smooth actions (nice for dance performances)
25 it's the same as 24, you can't tell the difference. both are "Cinematic", broadcast look start at 30fps not 25. You just decide between 24/25 purely based on your location that you are living.
So if I have an external monitor which doesn't have a 94+ setting, would it be okay to set it to 98 + or - 4?
@@jmfrokka2354 94 is the value where SLog3 clips. If your monitor doesn't support 94 zebra level find your best work around yourself. I'd just set the cameras Zebra to 94+. Expose the image in the camera correctly. Use the monitor to check your frame, not to check your exposure.
I am new to videography, but I am a professional photographer. I’m trying to teach myself videography and since I have the Sony A7iv why not learn with it. Now I am using LumaFusion on my iPad Pro with the M1 chip and I watched another video that shows to do your exposure at least +1.7 to +2.0 and I was not liking the results after color grading. And now since watching this video I just tested it out and I am really happy with the results with skin tones using +0.7. And your video really showed on all three exposures the difference so I couldn’t wait to try it out. I’m so glad I found your video thank you so much for taking the time. It’s greatly appreciated
I’m glad it helped out a lot! That’s right, the key thing is test test test to see how everything reacts!
Keep in mind that the Base ISO will differ depending on which camera you're using. On m A1, the two base ISOs are 800 and 4000. If you're not sure, go to a dim room, and look at the shadows as you crank the ISO from 800. At a certain point, it should clean up and that's your second base. This is helpful because shooting at 4000 is going to produce much cleaner results than shooting at 3200.
Yup! 100% I made this video with the a7iv audience at 5k subs and didn’t expect it to be shown more to others 😅
@@VictorLaforteza Hehehe
Keep in mind skintone IRE depends on the kind of skintone.
Darker skintones will have a lower ideal IRE (as low as 42), while lighter skintones can be up to around 78.
It also depends on reflectance, which is something to keep in mind.
This isn’t talk about as much. You really have to dig through RUclips to get this type of info about skin tones.
Yep agreed 👏🏾
what about mixed race people?
@@k-qp2nv being “mixed race” says nothing about skin tone.
One can be mixed race African American and have a dark complexion, or not. Or one can be mixed race East Asian European and have an entirely different complexion.
Light doesn’t care about which country your parents are from, only how much melanin is in your skin, so use an appropriate value between IRE 42-ish and 78-ish.
well being half white half blacj usually means "mixed" and usually the skintone is neither dark or light,, biology@@joelmulder
I recently came across your RUclips video on exposing S-Log3, and I wanted to take a moment to express my gratitude. Your insights and explanations were incredibly informative, and I feel like I've gained a much better understanding of how to make the most out of S-Log3.
Your enthusiasm and clear communication style really made the topic accessible, and I appreciate the effort you put into breaking down the complexities of S-Log3. It's evident that you're passionate about sharing your knowledge, and it's been incredibly helpful for someone like me who is still navigating the intricacies of this feature.
Your video has given me a renewed sense of hope and confidence when working with S-Log3, and I can't thank you enough for that. Consider me a new subscriber - I'm looking forward to more insightful content from your channel!
Once again, thank you, Victor! Keep up the fantastic work.
Great to hear! Don’t miss out on the Sony cine article pinned comment on this video ! To take exposure to the next level
The best SLOG3 explanation I've come across! Feel more confident with exposing in this picture profile as things were always a hassle previously. Thank you for this video!
Glad it was helpful!
OMG... finallyyyy... I find a video where I really understand exposure on Sony a74 while using slog3.. I even bought a few LUTs and still couldn't get desired results and after watching and understanding this.. BOOM... I finally get the desired results.. Thank you so much...
I’ve used it before, and I believe my problem is what I’ve came to your channel for. Understanding how to expose for it. I’ve been trying to wing it a bit of what I know a little that I’ve learned, but you’ve broke it down so much better than what I’ve heard recently. Thanks so much, Victor! Really appreciate you!
Thanks very much. I came to an A7iv from a BMPCC 4k and blindly followed online advice to aim for +1.7. The footage always seemed a bit too hot for my liking in post and now I understand that in 10bit I can back-off the exposure and get a better end result.
Nah dead ass and the amount of big name RUclipsrs spreading that information online is crazy
First time using s-log with fx6. Learning the camera and best way to expose to get the best quality look and feel.
Subbed! Been exposing my shots in +1.7 ~ +2.0 forever and was never satisfied with it on post-editing. Little did I know newer Sony cameras has more dynamic range from +0.3~+1.0.
Hopefully this will give you better results!! Any questions feel free to ask! 🙌🏽🙌🏽
One of the most useful video I've seen in a while, exactly what I was looking for, many thanks!
Your thumbnails are works of art and these vids are so informative! Preordered the FX30 and am super excited to take my vids here on RUclips to the next level. Will be watching lots of your videos while I learn everything about this new camera
Thank you, Kelsey! The FX30 is a great upgrade!! If you do have any specific questions outside of what is covered in the videos, feel free to reach out :)
@@VictorLafortezadoes this discussion apply to the fx30? Cause a lot of the videos on RUclips say to overexpose 1.7+2.0 for that camera but I haven't exactly been happy with how far I need to push my footage back in post it feels unnecessary tbh especially in day light
@@paperstacksfilms fx30 you’d still need to exposure to the right at 1.7. Check out my comparison between the fx30 and a6700 to see an extensive test of how to expose slog3 on both cameras
I must have seen countless videos all with differing ways to expose - Thank you for your clear and easy to understand explanation!
Boss, very clearly you explain sony a7iv slog 3 and cinematic settings. It's just wow. ❤️
Glad you found it helpful!
Wow. That was too hard for me to understand, after many videos, until I ran on this video. Great,simple and all details covered!
Thank you and Kiu!
Glad you found it helpful! If you have any further questions, feel free to ask!
This is super helpful, especially seeing them side by side -- you can really see the image quality and clarity/accuracy difference between the three. Always struggled with getting SLOG3 exposed properly (A73), but now have the 4, so I'm going to try these recommendations!
Not a problem!! Test test test is key 🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽
If you still use the A7III always use slog2 instead, there is no increase in dynamic range between the two and the 8 bit codec is not suitable for slog3. That in combination with ITU709Matrix will give you the best color and dynamic range on the A7III ;) (Check out Caleb Pikes video for why).
Well this is an eye opener ! I have also been trying to keep the exposure at 1.7 to 2.0, and have always been blowing out the highlights and to be honest, it drove me crazy to the point I resorted to S-Cinetone as I was missing out on footage of my newly born daughter. Yes I a novice, but everything else is going perfectly I just couldn't nail SLOG3. THANK YOU !! I will give this a go ..
Same here
And there you have it. I did a load of footage this BH weekend just gone, kept it to between MM0 and +1.0 max, edited the footage in FCPX using a good simple converter LUT and it looks perfect ! colours are good, no blown out highlights and this goes for indoors AND outdoors. This is the best footage I have achieved since trying SLOG3 four months ago, so this just proves it ! well it does to me anyway. Good luck everyone !
Have been trying out Slog3 more recently and always struggling to expose it. I was always going crazy to achieve +1.7 and I'm glad to know it's not neccessary!
How's this been working for you? Did you adjust to a lower zebra level too, or are you just exposing lower?
You still have to exposure to 2.0 on SLOG 3. Even in your example looks better when you exposure to 2.0. Just make sure its not blinking.
I don't think so. In his example, the color information is worse. It does show that overexposed highlights have a good range of recoverability.
It's amazing how I've watched hundreds of videos on exposing slog3 properly and this is the first video that I feel really gave practical information that I can actually use to get things exposed properly on the fly. Almost every other video basically just says get an external monitor.
Really glad to hear that! An external monitor is great but not everyone has it and i wanted to share the knowledge I have to expose it just with the camera 🙌🏽
I’m not a Slog user. I shoot lumix Vlog but learning is learning, great information and examples from you that will help me and anyone else continuing to grow
I haven't used SLOG3 just yet, just getting down all the movements and basics of videos. This video helped a ton, especially for someone who is still kind of new to video.
Step by step brother!! Once you nail those movements and basics, get to some color grading stuff like the black magic free training. SLOG3 is quite a beast to master. Keep at it mate!
Hey victor. This helps when you have the camera right in front of you and using a window. What if you have a softbox and LED you are lighting yourself with. How do you know how bright to make the LED, vs changing the aperture or shooting wide open at 1.4 and trying to expose for t talking heads with actual light
I pretty much do the same thing with my talking heads with actual lights! You basically try to make sure you're not wide open unless you really want a shallow depth of field with your talking heads. With enough light usually it should read around +1 on the metering. Depends on which light you use but for a 60w light its usually around 50-60% with a softbox. You can see it on my other recent videos.
I always stick to SLOG3, but have always been exposing to +2. Honestly haven’t been getting the best results in terms of grading. I’ll give +0.7 a shot!
With the new Sony cameras, it’s a lot more forgiving and easier to get the final look you want! Enjoy slog3 more!! 🙌🏽
I've stupidly overexposed my new A7iv like my old A7iii 8 bit by 1-2 stops over... looked too bright and amateurish.
With this guide I've nailed it and even sometimes exposed for the highlights (meter even went to -0.3 to -0.7 at times) but it gave it that old school moody look.
Thank you again for this video! Wished it came out way earlier to help me
Amazing!! Glad this helped!!
Great video dude! Glad I subbed! I've only started using SLOG3 and still learning to use it. Grateful for content creators like you to show us ways to expose SLOG3!
Glad I could help!
I ended up setting my A7IV exposure to +1.7 because I watched a few RUclips videos… was working with really overexposed imagery but coming from 8bit it was still impressive the amount I could fix in post.
Definitely a lot more data in the video files on newer Sony cams!!
Do you have a video on the picture profile that you use in detail?
Ive used slog 3 before and ive had amazing results after colourgrading. but ive had to practice quite a bit before hand.
thanks for the video
This is by far the most comprehensive explanation i watched. It almost answers all I needed to know. I only have one unanswered question. Which metering mode do you use and to which situation will you use it. Thanks in advance for the answer 😊😊
Multi metering for day time and highlights only for night time :)
Sure this may be helpful when it comes to color correcting and save time if someone isn't good at it, but in reality overexposing all the way to zebra limit for slog3 and then backing off (sometimes this even puts exposure above +2) gives you the most latitude and can generate the exact same result as the comparison videos with the +0.7. It's all about how good someone is in post, but this is a good tutorial for people who aren't at least at the intermediate level in color correcting or grading (since they wont need to spend as much time to make skin tones or whatever they are exposing for look good).
As mentioned in the video this is more like a guideline and made for beginners to expose well in their attempt to use slog3. It’s 100% to expose to the right before but not needed anymore with newer Sony cameras. It also comes down to taste. You simply change where the latitude is covered from where you expose it. If you expose to the right (i.e. +2) you’ll get more latitude for shadows but cut down the latitude for highlights. The latitude range almost never changes unless you clip one end, it gets translated to how you expose. For me, this is the best way I like the highlights. A camera cannot generate more dynamic range by just overexposing, you always pick and choose what you value more - shadows or highlights. To actually get the full latitude of a camera that’s where you put in the lighting conversation. I’ve gotten great results pushing and pulling in post like my other videos. You could say otherwise and I know over exposing still works with good post production skills. At the end of the day, it’s an easier method to get into slog3 workflow and it’s not as daunting for beginners anymore.
@@VictorLaforteza With respect to log curves, this is true to an extent, but for more advanced users, we can pry apart that compressed highlight range and "get more data" out of it (a better way of saying this might be to "unpack it" better) than a beginner. But this is definitely an easier method for beginners; I can't argue with that. 👍
great video. love it. i have zv-e1. I wonder, whether I shoot portraits, or indoors or outdoors landscapes, should I always keep my zebras at 70% ? yesterday I shot some landscapes with 95% Zebra and notice that sky and highlight areas have lost their color and details. please guide if you can. thank you.
Try dialing down the exposure just before the zebras show up! That way you're exposing the the top range of the highlights instead of it losing details due to over exposure
Amazing video and perfectly explained, thank you so much!☺️
to be honest i tried anything below +1.7 and its still dark i still recommend +1.7 or +1.3 exposure compensation. family and friends told me my footage looks dark and claustrophobic
Still works for sure! Go for whatever works for ya 🙌🏽
Hi Victor, I’m
New shooting in my SonyFX30 can you tell me how to set shortcuts to control Shutter speed, ISO and Zebras so I can expose
Correctly.
Thank you so much I enjoyed your video!
I have a dedicated video for it! "cinematic settings for FX30" :) also this video only applies to the full frame cameras. You'd still need to expose to the right with the FX30 with roughly +1.3 or +1.7
Thank you very helpful! I was constantly trying to get to 1.7 but then id change situation and it would immediately be overexposed.. nice to know I can get away with having metering on a lower level
100%! Metering is a quick guide but it’s not accurate! Testing and knowing the limit of the footage is key 🙌🏽🙌🏽 these cameras are so good though
I’ve always loved s-log 3 and getting that perfect exposure at night was sometimes a challenge. So using the highlight metering mode is something new to me but I’ll definitely be using that for night time. Thanks so much!
Night time exposure for SLOG3 is quite tough. You wanna test test test until it makes sense!! Hopefully these guidelines help you out, Lennon!
So my question is if only have a73 and a6400 I should I follow this tips for slog 3 since it’s 8 bit
no, you'd have to expose the old way for these 8 bit cameras +1.7 to + 2.0 depending on the scenes
yessss! been waiting for this video!
Great tutorial thank you 🙏🏽🌷
Shoutout to you for the thumbnail design. Love the hint of the 70s film feel. Very very clickable :)
Dude, thank you for explaining this. I’ve had a real hard time as a beginner in video understanding this. But you helped me get a handle on it. What seems to be nice about slog3 is it’s a lot of set it and forget it. Set your iso and shutter speed, and only worry about your aperture and nd filter to get proper exposure. I do kind of wish the a7iv had a slightly higher base iso for night time shooting for slog3, like 6400 or something. Either way, it still looks amazing.
I'm glad it helped you, Eric! It's definitely a beast to master but with more time and testing, it's one of the best profiles to use! I wish it had 6400 as well for it's 2nd base ISO but 3200 can work with a fast prime lens! But again that's another limitation that requires $$$ to be fixed.
@@VictorLaforteza That’s quite true! I’ve found my 24-70 2.8 works pretty good in most low light situations at 3200 with the giant sensor, but I think eventually I’ll get a prime with an even faster aperture for those situations!
I feel like I've seen a few of these videos but this was actually way more helpful and in depth than anything. Great video.
Glad it was helpful!!! 🙌🏽
Hi, Victor. I'm one of the new guys you mentioned: New to videography & new to the a7iv. And as you predicted, I learned a lot from this video so that I think I can give SLog3 a try now. But admittedly, it was too daunting before I watched your "this-is-how-you-do-it" video. I noticed from your YT Channel Home that you are doing a lot of a7iv topics, which I need desperately, so I subscribed & belled. Thanks for pulling me out of the fog and into S-log. Yeah, you can quote me on that- AFAIK, it's original. :-)
Definitely a tough one for new Sony owners! It’s a process to learn and the best part is the journey of getting there! Glad the video was helpful! Any questions at all, just ask! You can also join the discord group where our little community is situated 🙌🏽
@@VictorLaforteza Already a Discord member, so I guess I can just log-in using your Discord link. Thanks!
hwo do you get glare out of glasses?
It's one of the toughest things to do but I usually just try to angle the light and the camera so that the glare doesn't show up.
This was super helpful Victor, such an easy explanation with examples. I'm currently using SLOG3 on my A7IV mainly during outdoor docu shots and indoor talking heads and your video helped me to better understand what I'm doing behind the camera. Thx - Balint
Glad it was helpful! if you have any other questions, feel free to ask!!
With the A7IV , isn’t there problems using 4K like overheating , and crop? How do you work around these?
@@danielerskine6216 I have set the temperature threshold to high in the settings and I never had a problem with overheating since then. Also, I rarely use 60 fps on my works. But when I do, I usually use the 20mm f1.8 and the crop is not a problem anymore.
@@balintnagy3914 thank you!
This should be used if you want the best exposure out of camera with little post work. The whole point of Slog is to get the cleanest noise free image. That’s why you over expose and then bring it down in post to bury the noise. This is also why the dynamic range has to be excellent as to save the highlights which you then recover in post and also why it’s tricky to sometimes get the correct exposure cause you may clip the highlights. Don’t think you should be using slog if you’re not willing to put the post work in. S Cinetone is best alternative 👌🏻
You simply don't need to over expose that much anymore as the noise floor is much better on newer Sony cameras. You can see the official Sony Cine guide here -sonycine.com/articles/how-correctly-expose-s-log3---a7s-iii---fx3---fx6---fx9/ "The a7S III/FX3/FX6/FX9 are all low noise cameras. There is no need to expose these cameras any brighter than the Sony recommended levels for most normal scenes" 👍I've been exposing normally since the a7siii and I've never had issues with noise. The dynamic range is retained rather than shifted all the way to the highlights.
@@VictorLaforteza I wonder if A7RV with sort of more punishing sensor noise wise (to much pixels) will also be this forgiving. I Love WYSIWYG concept and S-log while i love HDR scares crap out of me having to expose a scene all the way to 'to white' to then draw back, you dont even see if it was good.
thank you, I've been looking for a solution for shooting in slog, I always shoot slog with auto ISO and expose it to +2, but in post I'm not satisfy with the out come. I will this method and thank you for sharing.
Everything about this video is just perfect; the information presentation, practicality, subtle background music❤ You earned my like and subscription!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for the sub!
How do you get the 60s/70s or 80s/90s blown highlights deep shadow look when dealing with exposure please ?
Thank you very helpful! I think the film overwinding sound effect in the film is very cool. Can you share how to get it?😁
I cant remember which music library but it is called projector sounds!
bought my A7IV last week, i will try this SLOG3 settings! Thank you!
Hi Victor, I would like to ask you a question. I am an FX30 owner and shoot football sports videos. Out of many slog tutorials this one is helping me the most! So in the meantime: thank you!
My question is this: putting an exposure between +0.03 and +1 (on the MM) and following your advice, I go very high with the ISO (however there is not much noise). How far do you advise me to go in terms of iso in order not to "damage" the fotage?
in my experience at around 3200 is my max. I'd always use 800 or 2500 though for the best image possible! For the FX30, it actually needs more light in. I'd say expose for +1 to +1.3 most of the time and then bring it down in post to balance the exposure.
Well i'm using the New Sony FX30 and i use Slog3 as well i love it..
If you don't expose correctly with it and then try to apply your Slog3 to rec709 Lut, then it will look bad and make it harder to exposure and color grade, but i normally look at the waveform and make sure the highest it goes is no higher then 65 to70 percent. this way i can recover if something was wrong..
although i wish there was a slog3 to rec709 that wasn't so harsh because it think that LUT over does it, and doesn't look exactly like it was looking when i applied the monitor LUT to see what it will look like when i apply my LUT in Adobe Premier Pro, for some reasly actually applying the LUT in Premier is a bit more harsh on shadows.
As i said i wish they was a LUT out there that was like Rec709 but not so harsh on the shadows..
Dude same here, I hate Sony's conversion kit for slog3 it comes out way to contrasty. I end up going with the arri standard 709 lut in premiere gives me a better starting point with the image. I have been struggling with skin tones and trying to get the mm to 1.7-2.0 while not overexposing the image. It's not easy. I'm still getting used to colorgrading with 10bit so I might try using this technique but I feel like getting better at colorgrading is the better bet because the overexposjre rule is to allow the most latitude in post
really good stuff! just got the a7 iv and this helped me a lot knowing how to exposure SLOG-3
I shoot real estate and have been exposing to 1.7. It causes the windows to be blown out. I'd basically retain more of the highlights from the windows with just shooting at 0-0.7??
How about using Zebras at 95 to pick up clipped areas of the scene (supposedly SLog3 clips at 94) ? That is my favored technique- making sure I do not blow out any areas that I need detail in? I tend to overexpose a bit if possible to allow me to pull the exposure down in post to reduce shadow noise.
I'm curious: What drove your decision to use an anamorphic lens flare filter? It's distracting when there are no light sources for the blooms.
nothing, it's just for fun
dude - this was so helpful, really appreciate you breaking down the scenarios and everything step by step! thank you!
Glad it helped dude!! Waiting for your next video 🙌🏽
Do you know how to expose fx6? I can't find the light meter. Maybe there isn't. Thank you!
When you vlog in low light, are you using metering mode: highlights only, even when you're in front the camera
I'd maybe switch it to multi metering again because you'd want the face to be brighter and leave the highlights blow out!
@@VictorLaforteza thanks!
Extremely helpful. Many thanks! I’d appreciate some insight on real estate videography, for interiors; WB and recommended settings. I’m planning to buy the a7iv just for videos. Thanks again.
Tks a lot for this video. I've been struggling with my sony a7iv exposure. I have one question: for the sky exposure, whats the value for the zebras?
Can you show us how to use waveform and histogram on A7S III?
Amazing! which ND filter do you recommend? Thanks a lot!
NiSi true colour VND :)
So if you DO have an 8 bit camera (zv-e10) should we still overexpose to 1.7-2 (not blinking) then? Super new to all of this and trying to figure out how to shoot in slog 3 on my camera in a vlogging situation where I'm dealing with different lighting and conditions
Yeah you’d still need to for 8 bit cameras! These only apply on the new full frame cams starting from a7iv!
@@VictorLaforteza cool! thanks so much!
Wonderful video Victor! Thank you for providing your knowledge! Just bought a Sony A7s III and will start using S-LOG3 for the first time ever. Very excited to start this journey,.
Very welcome man! Make sure to use ISO 640 or 12800 since that’s the Base SLOG3 ISO for the a7siii! I forgot to include it in the video 😅😅 enjoy slog3! Practice lots!
@@VictorLaforteza Wonderful! Thank you so much for much! Subscribed! Keep those awesome videos coming! Would love to see more videos showing how to work with the Siii :) Maybe an entire workflow video from Setting up the camera, exposing, shooting, editing. =) Thank you!
Bonsoir, realy nice vidéo, thank you sooo much....... how can i get the transition you using?
I combined it with some assets! But the main thing is film burn :) you can get it on any library!
Hi Victor, how much overexposure for the a6700? I am trying to achieve the look you have when you made your video's on instagram using the 6700. Also would i use 70 zebras on the 6700? Thanks so much🙏🏻
Forgot to add to the initial comment to still expose around +1.3 and +1.7 for the a6700. You can also follow some fx3 tutorials for flexible iso. It’ll be the same as the a6700
This explanation helped me quite a bit. A related question, about zebra settings: You describe a 70 +-5 setting with an example of lighter skin. What should be the baseline for dark skin?
I'd say 55-60 +-5 would give you a good baseline. I often times just try to expose 70 +-5 regardless as I can just bring it down in post for darker skin to match it's actual IRE levels.
Really cool video. When it comes to exposing Slog 3, it seems to be some sort of question of faith. So far, I always tried to follow the guidelines of the phantom luts. For skintones it's 56 Ire +-3, some others tweaked those settings even lower to 50 +-2 . Others add 15% to you standard IRE value. I don't know ... I will test your approach, cause 70 IRE does make sense.
Another question: what kind of overlay do you use in this video to get this RGB effect on the corners?
Thank you 💓
Yeah it's all about testing! Sony's official for skintones is 56 as well! I just like the flexibility in post especially for run and gun or time constraint shoots. Definitely test what works best for your workflow! :)
The RGB effect is a prism blur on davinci resolve. I covered it in one of the editing videos "how to get the film look"
@@VictorLaforteza thank you so much for your fast and detailed answer. Didn't know, that 56 is the official Sony number.
Well...I think I have to switch to DaVinci Resolve :)
I literally just bought my first ever camera for doing song covers in RUclips, and I'm planning to use it in slog3, I don't know, I don't have any lut packs and I'm super intimidated by using slog3, color correcting, etc.
Practice and apply all the techniques needed from tutorials :) Learn it little by little and the results will be amazing!
You don't need that for cover songs to post on RUclips. High dynamic range is good for short films or advertising. If you're just planning to do cover songs only then an iphone will do the job or a 500$ canon will do it efficiently as long as you take care of lighting, hell an image with a videocam can look good if the light was good . I think you should spend more time on audio and decorations if you insist on recording it with a sony camera
10:50 Why would you increase the aperature? Isn't it better to have the lowest aperature possible (f1.4 in this case) with non native ISO rather than letting in less light? Why do you stick to 800/3200 so strictly?
You’ll introduce more noise and less dynamic range going outside 800/3200 for the a7iv. Depends on what you’re filming but filming at 1.4 has a super shallow depth of field. You don’t need to follow these guidelines so strictly. I’m just showing the best possible image and why they are. You can use non native ISOs especially if you’re shooting events with no control over lighting. I do it all the time for events and Denoise in post. It’s just best practice to stick with native ISO values imo.
@@VictorLafortezaI'll need to read up on the effects of non native ISO a little more. Thanks for the clarification.
@@tothespace2122glad to help! If you have any other questions feel free to ask
Hi, thanks for sharing. Sorry, I am not sure if I am understanding this correctly. I am wondering why you reduced the exposure futher to match the display with gamma assist switch on? I thought this adjustment was for camera display only, ie only affecting the screen brightness?
for Gamma display assist it is actually showing you what it would look like at the end. It's applying a Sony REC.709 LUT and any adjustments will be reflected on the final image. Hope that helps!
I JUST STARTED USING S-LOG 3 bought a Sony fx30 and did some low lighting work so here I am doing research because it came out grainy,
This is for full frame. You’d need to expose higher for fx30 :)
Amazing video. I'm getting the a7IV through my workplace and will definitely be referring back to this video when we start using it.
Awesome! Any other questions just ask!
is it the lens you're using to shoot your talking head thats causing the edges and corners to have a chromatic blur? i like that look if you can share some details. thanks!
Nope! It’s an effect on DaVinci resolve called prism blur :)
Can you set your Zebras at 100% - and then dial up your exposure until you see zebras on an area that you still want to preserve detail?? That will let you over-expose the most while not loosing detail in blown out highlights... Just a thought
Definitely can! Try to test it out and see where it clips out and what is saveable in post
Hello Victor! Thank you for making great content. I recently purchased a Sony FX30 and the profile picture PP8 (which is the S-Log3 according to all the videos I have been watching) has disappeared. I am very new to this but do you know (or anyone seeing this comment) what is the alternative? THANK YOU!
it's called LOG shooting mode now! it should be under settings. Make sure to pick "flexible ISO" with the FX30 you still need to expose to +1.3 to +1.7 though as it needs more light in.
@@VictorLaforteza THANK YOU!
love the tutorial. Still got the A7iii, i need to expose at +2 for slog3?
Yes! that's always good practice for a7iii SLOG2 / SLOG3!
Some people say 70 some say 41 middle gray when exposing. Which is better
41 true middle gray would be better I think
i have so many problems with slog 3 my videos have so mutch noise, i would try your setep !
Victor, very helpful! Question. Is there a Native ISO for the FX30, irrespective of whether it's in Cine EI or SLOG 3? For example, if I'm punting to PP 11 (Cinetone) do I need to stay in a native ISO or can I use whatever ISO I desire for the situation at hand?
Yes! Slog3 is 800 & 2500 on the fx30. I think s cinetone is something lower but I’m not quite sure! Like 100 but idk what the second base iso is
What would be the best ND Filter for shooting SLOG 3 on a Sony a7iv? There are so many choices. It is so confusing.
I usually use NiSi VND
I’ve been having so much trouble with slog3 thanks for explaining . Helped alot
Very informative video!. And your footage always look sweet.
Do you have advice for what would be the best high ISO value for underwater footage on the Sony A1?. I think the base goes to 100-400 and 500-a lot. I am going to go need to go pretty high because the low light, wondering if there are steps or values better than others.
Thank you! Unfortunately I have no experience with underwater :( I would say use the second base ISO and have a fast lens maybe 1.8 or 1.4 to get more light in
Hi Victor, great video! Can you please share the name of the font? :) Thx!
nt wagner!
Danke ! @@VictorLaforteza
Hey Victor, can I ask what filter you have on your camera? I like the diffusion + lens flare, are you adding anything in post?
I have black pro mist 1/8 and the lens flare and chromatic aberrations are lens reflection & prism blur on davinci resolve!!
Hey there I am new to videography!
In your daytime example, you set it to a lower exposure (800) since you don't need that much light sensitivity. Why is it that F16 is too high, I am trying to understand why we don't want to leave the F number at such a level.
In your night time example, could you not have increased the aperture until you got the metering to +0.7. Why did you change the ISO to 3200 instead of cranking up the aperture. I think I need some understanding on when to adjust Aperture vs. ISO.
Also, can we use these same concepts to do expose photography too? In case of photography how would you play with the shutter speed since there is no rule with the frames per second?
I am absolutely loving the style of videography you do!
good questions! High aperture will introduce diffraction which will make the image softer! So ideally you gotta check when that starts to happen to a lens. It's different on every lens.
for night time, you definitely can put the aperture to wide open but that means your depth of field will also be shallow so then we move on to the next best best thing would be the 2nd base ISO of 3200.
Photography has more options since the shutter is now available to play with. Similar concepts but more forgiving if you go off from the guidelines.
Hope that helps!
@@VictorLaforteza thanks so much for your response! Another question I had was how come we used .7 on day and .3 on night?
@@pavithbaskaranpb highlights are harsher in contrast to everything else at night. Since The sun is gone, there's nothing making the light even across the board.
Thanks for this - so helpful! Just wondering what font you're using for your on-screen text? Salamat!
NT Wagner!
@@VictorLaforteza awesome thanks so much!
Ahh dude! This was brilliant. Shooting an event next week that will be indoors at night, was nervous to use s-log3 but will give it a practice over the next few days! Appreciate the video!
It's quite tough at the start! Lots of testing until you get it right!
@@VictorLaforteza what's your thoughts on 8bit slog2 compared to 10bit s-log3? I've got the a7c and was considering using it on a gimbal in slog2 to have a good variety of shots so I don't have to chop and change my fx3 rig to fit it on a gimbal.
@@gedreeves It's doable but definitely tough... I mean it's okay but you'll have to spend some time in post to match both cameras. HMMMM might be a good video idea to cover... I have to do some testing!
@@VictorLaforteza haha awesome! Glad I could help 😁 I'm having a go now, seeing how different the picture looks.
Wow this was so good!! Love you explained it. It helped me wrap my head around it !
I haven’t brought slog 3 to my event shootings becuase I play it safe. But excited on locking down that new beast setting !
Honestly, that vintage film looks pretty rad 👌
thanks man! been really digging !
You said there is no 120 or 48 on mirrorless cameras? But there is a setting for variable shutter speed down on decimal level? Shouldn’t then 24/48 or 60/120 be the optimal shutter speed?
Some cameras don’t have variable shutter. You don’t have to be so accurate since you won’t even notice the difference in shutter angle as they’re so close together so rounding is enough without the use of variable shutter speed.
I’ve been using slog 3 on my a7iv and I’ve been so close to getting the look I need maybe I need to use the conversion lut from Sony to the exact look or does it not matter?
I was a little confused when you said change metering mode when in Manual mode. I guess it changes on its own.
Yes yes yes! You no longer should be over exposing +2 stops on the newer sony 10bit cameras. Honestly? If it looks good on your camera screen with gamma assist on, you will be ok in post. Just expose for the skin tones. This video is spot on!
THIS!!! It seems like its easier and easier to shoot beautiful images on sony cameras lately.