I have another question for you :) Your Zebra Values for C1 and C2 are ment to use with the gamma assits turned on, right? So in this case, the zebra values on the pure log-footage would be different, same story, when you are using the pantom luts for example, right? Can you provide, which C1 and C2 values you use for monitoring with the pantom neutral lut? thanks a lot!!
Zebras only monitor the log profile so they will show at the correct value no matter if you use gamma assist or not at 52ire. If you were to use zebras on rec709 not slog footage then light skin tones should be around 65 ire@@eike.zender
Finally - someone did it - they finally articulated the problem with relying solely on the In Camera Meter - you're a Godsend Jacques! Great stuff brother :)
Thanks for this. I think the most important thing you touched on was exposing with the camera meter! 99% of people get it wrong and you gave a much more accurate & practical use case for it! Using these methods and Joels (Phantom) LUTs = perfection!
Lekka bru, so glad to hear that! I also got confused by the meter readings so I simply had to figure it out. Thanks for taking the time to comment, hope you have an awesome festive season!
This is incredible. I think you used the least amount of words possible to teach this. Your words to knowledge ratio has to be 1:100, mind blown. Thanks so much!!
Excellent video, thanks! I'd been over-exposing 1.3 to 1.7 stops every time I shot in S-Log3, just because that's what most people say to do, but in my office set-up I'd always be struggling to bring back my highlights far enough. Exposing by eye using a monitor LUT is definitely bringing better results, will be testing out the spot metering soon though. Thanks again, great work 👊
Thanks bro, I fully understand what you mean! I also had the same experience and eventually started relying more on my eyes. I guess it's a combination of things, so for now I first try the camera's tools and then double check it with my eyes.
Jacques, this video is brilliantly concise and phenomenally well put together. I can clearly see the sheer amount of work that was invested. Striving for perfection indeed. Good to see Paige in the video as well!
Great video 🔥 Easiest way I found is get the Phantom Luts and just expose normally or at .7 When you drop the Phantom Luts its so easy. You dont have to go fo much adjustments. Trust me Phantom Luts is the way to go.
@@armando.visuals It definitely can be, sometimes I can get clean lowlight footage. Just depends on the location and lighting. What helped me last night during my low light video test was setting my zebras to 93.
Thank you for this video. When exposing do you set your ISO to auto in order to have control on your MM or the oppsite ? Other youtubers say that we should always aim at ISO 800 to achieve best results.
thank you so much for explaining the problem with multi-meter .. and also thanks for the tips for using zebras on different situations.. best tutorial of exposing slog3 on RUclips.. (y)
this is what I wanted to hear. I always set my exopose between 1.7-2.0 before. but sometimes it feels like clips is under exposed on subject. now I know cleary. I should watch it one more time. or two times. haha thanks for the tutorial
I have watched many fx3 creator videos, Your definitely clearly the best shot. These are some nice scenes. I have been watching crap footage examples for weeks. :)
Great tutorial. The grey card is just not a practical option for a lot of us in real world run and gun scenarios. I'm new to the A7Siii but have found the meter is far from reliable and I jump between that, zebras, and just eyeballing it. Like the other comment above, would love to see your approach on the FX6. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
You're most welcome, thanks for taking the time to comment. I fully agree with you, I really do use all these methods together and eyeballing is often the winner :)
Thank you! I always thought I am the only one exposing at average +1.7 at the EV but I guess I was doing it right all the time even tho it didn't feel quite right. Would be nice to "recalibrate" the EV that instead of +1.7 you can set this value to 0.
This is exactly what I needed! Your channel is a Godsend bro! Excellent production quality, easy to understand explanation, and cinematically engaging at the same time🔥👌🏾
I'll take your advice when i'll upgrade to 10 bit camera. I only have 8 bit cameras and when I shoot slog 3 i might get some banding when grading. Nice video.
Yeah man S-Log3 is really difficult with 8 Bit but if you nail the colour and exposure spot on you should be able to get away with it 95% of the time! Just stick to 4K 24/25P
This was amazingly helpful! One last question I have is regarding to the differences between SLOG 2 and 3. Personally, I used to shy away from using SLOG 3 because it was my understanding that it was harder to grade and more prone to noise if not perfectly exposed. Is this something you would personally agree on, from your own experience?
Enjoyed this video. Always love seeing other workflows! Just a note that to get maximum dynamic range, you'd actually want to ETTR, not expose in the manner you're suggesting. Love your end look though! I was never fully happy with Phantom LUTs and ended up with Leeming LUTs as my go-to for technical conversions, which require an ETTR method to squeeze out the full range.
Can you please do a guide on FX6 too? The menue and tools are way different than FX6. Which slog3 is better? Slog3-Cine or just S-log3? A general guide. Would really appreciate it since there are almost zero proper guides online on FX6
So you are using Spot-Metering everytime? When you are with your zebras at 50 +/-2 are you aiming on the skin? And with 70 at the highlights? And always spotmetering? Thanks for the video! And your work!
Thanks for this crystal clear explanation Jacques!! Pardon my beginner question but: When people say X stops over exposed, you mean turning the exposure Dial with the camera set on Shutter priority Auto? If I'm shooting in full manual, the exposure dial doesn't do anything!
You're welcome Arnaud! Yeah if you shoot manual the EV dial isn't relevant so the X Stops referred to are either measured with the Meter or just based on IRE values.
Hi Jacques. Thanks for sharing your views on exposing and grading SLOG3. These tips are precise, to the point and super helpful. The best part is that you've explained things using real world examples. Thanks a heap man! Cheers from Aus.
But how do you expose if you are outside and film while walking around. And ur multimeter is like really jumping up and down multiple stops all the time? Pls someone help!
I’m planning to rent one of these, and I won’t have long enough to figure out all of its complexities. I’m planning on getting footage of a lake at night (hopefully with a full moon in the shot). With regard to the aperture setting, ISO setting, and shutter speed, what would you recommend for crystal clear footage with no grain and the sharpest possible focus for everything in the frame? Also, if you set all the settings to exactly the way you want them, will it stay on those settings if you turn the camera off/change out the battery/change the SD card/etc? Thank you. :)
Remember that gamut asist does not impact zebras, so the read values of the zebras are for s log where mid gray is at 41, caucasian skin tones in a broad cast scenarios sit at 50+/- 2 and a white piece of paper is at 61. On the other hand if you have a rec 709 display, the zebras will display off of the rec 709 so caucasian skintones around 60-70 for the higest point and so on, the values change so keep that in mind.
This is something I have to explain all the time to Photographers who turn to video. The average meter doesn’t tell you anything about the subject you want to expose. False color or zebras are much more accurate and reliable.
Hey! Great content - I do have a question which is confusing to me. Waveforms - when shooting in Slog3 (Sony) and Using the rec709 Lut monitor , do I based the Waveform of the Slog3 or the Lut?
Thanks so much Shahir! I'll try do a video on that next year, but I'm editing on the M1 Macbook Air (I had the mini but sold it to be more mobile) they're both so fast and works great with HEVC files
In a7s3, in .slog 3, the noise comes from overdoing it or by reducing it further? To avoid noise, how much distance should be kept from this km to km and how much should be kept from this distance during day time and shut at night….
Brilliant video as always Jacques! The best channel ever bro well done!! I was wondering what you thought of the HLG2 and HLG3 profiles? With your immense knowledge and understanding of Sony colour science receiving your insight and best way to get the best out of these profiles would be soooo AWESOME! They seem more forgiving and easier to film with and grade, but that's just my opinion would love yours.
Thanks David, you are most kind! I actually tried out HLG3 for a while but I found that the best skintone come out of PP-Off and S-Log3. HLG is not a bad option but with the new firmware I actually prefer S-Cinetone overall except S-Log3 which I mostly shoot on these days.
@@jacques_crafford I'm shooting in 8bit on A7III, A6600 and A6400 nog steeds troue my maat🙂so I'm comfortable with HLG2 or HLG3 just not sure if I should be adjusting anything in the picture profile. Thank you Jacques
This is a great Video, but I will be honest, I am still struggling with Exposure and using SLOG3 through to an Atomos Ninja V. Just as Famau Media has commented, I have been following the exposure to +1.7 and +2.0 and I have been having terrible results. I am a novice, I will admit, and I am trying to learn all of this as quickly as possible having purchased the A7S iii and Atomos Ninja V, when perhaps I should have started and learned the skills on lesser gear. I will admit I am falling back to using S-Cinetone to avoid missing some key recording moments in my life, especially filming my young daughter as it's so key not to miss these things, thus the reason I invested in the best Camera and Monitor. I am still not getting this right, and still have issues with using the MM and the Ninja V Zebras and False Colours (don't get me started on how much I DO NOT understand this! lol). I will keep playing your video again and again and hopefully one day will just crack this SLOG3 approach. I have the gear, I just would almost want 1:1 training in various situations, but have yet to find anyone who can provide that. thanks again for such a great Video. Onwards and upwards !!
If I am shooting in SLOG 3 on A7SIII and recording on Ninja V, should my Zebra values be the same on both the camera and the monitor? Say if my C1 Zebra value on A7SIII is 85 should it be also set to 85 on the Ninja? Thank you.
Hey Sam I would say yes although I don't ever use Zebras on the Ninja V, maybe I should try it out but as far as I know they work on IRE values which is universal.
Love the videos dude. If im shooting on the go, say travel films, could I use a Rec709 LUT in camera just to help me get the correct exposure quickly and then use the phantom luts in post?
Hi! The settings for zebra are for shooting in the slog3 on monitor, and what about if I use your lut in my camera display assistant? Which settings I should to set up? Thank you!
Hi Jacques. Have you tried the slog 3 correction lut from sony? I wonder how come it look SO different from the Phantom neutral look. The Phantom lut is much flatter
Hi man! Great content 💪🏻 One question, if the clipping point for highlights in slog3 is at 94, why are u setting up zebras to 75? I’m struggling a bit in run&gun situations where you cannot control light and exposure with the right amount of time. Thks in advance!
Hey Jac, at 7:02 you say you would bring the highlights up to 95 IRE if you want more detail in the shadows. But doesn't SLOG3 clip at 94 IRE? So wouldn't anything at 94 IRE or above be clipped? I'm confused.
Yes you are right, I should have phrased it better. What I meant is that 95 is where I stop to go down, so my limit is 94 but when I hit 95 I know I should go down. With False Colour I just watch out for the orange!
At 2:30 I’m assuming you overexposed that image to get that look? I always run into trouble for spots like that. Also I could never get the white balance to look like this when shooting. I just got a color checker 😂
With your IRE set around 50 for skintones you basically shoot SLOG at average of +1EV metering, giving you 5 stops of overexposure latitude and a tiny bit more noise in the shadows which is totally fine. I do the same ;) Though I've set it to 53%
Exactly, I think 53% is very good because I tend to push mine just a little bit further also, depends on the lighting. Thanks for taking the time to give your feedback, much appreciated!
@@PrincessAndJuan It's not that simple. 1. First of all exposing skintones is a matter of artistic choice. How will you want them to look in the final image? Dark? Neutral? Overexposed? 2. Many films often have skintones exposed ≈ a stop under. This is not a rule. Many films have them exposed level too. Remember one setting and thinking you've understood the process won't work. You need to study photography, do your own tests/shoots and know the latitude of your camera. Look zone metering theory also! Best of luck!
Hey Jacques! I have a question, how would you go about exposing slog3 on the a7sIII using the Ninja V. Would you even recommend using a monitoring LUT, if yes which one? Or should I set the Ninja V monitoring to native, Rec709 or PQ? And how would you set up the zebras on the Ninja V after that? Would mean the world to me, thank you for your amazing Videos!
Cool man, glad you asked! I mostly expose without the LUT and then just use the Neutral Phantom LUT to monitor but to be honest, I mostly use the waveform in full screen and look on the camera screen when it comes to exposure. Then I switch back to the monitor LUT.
YEs you said it. When I hear people giving straight values fit all makes my skin itch. Zebras are a good tool to compare against the meeter to know that the meter gets it wrong a lot.
Only a pleasure mate! You should definitely see them. When shooting darker skintones you might have to adjust the threshold to 35-40 but in all cases only see zebras on the brightest part of the skin.
@@jacques_crafford it's me again :D I'm courios why we shoulndt just use the zebras at 70, as this is where the skin tones sit? In this case I just could dial in the exposure by avoidng the zebras to appear. What do you think? Thank you mate and all the best
Thank you very much! Sadly I don't have premiere anymore but I will upload a video about how I colour grade in DaVinci, it will be using the same principles as Premiere.
Thanks awesome video!! Idk why I just got a ninja v for the a7siii and when I try to preview with phantom luts it looks completely broken, how do you get your luts to display properly? Thanks so much again for the video!
this is really a nice explanation and detail video, appreciate it and thanks for the tips, what is your ''one click conversion" ? and also are you just on default SLog3 Sgamut3 CINE?
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
All clips graded with PHANTOM LUTS: bit.ly/3cqdikV
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I use a Sony a7iii which LUT pack would u suggest.
the one for FS7, FS5 and other Legacy Alpha cameras@@GEFitness
I have another question for you :) Your Zebra Values for C1 and C2 are ment to use with the gamma assits turned on, right? So in this case, the zebra values on the pure log-footage would be different, same story, when you are using the pantom luts for example, right? Can you provide, which C1 and C2 values you use for monitoring with the pantom neutral lut? thanks a lot!!
Zebras only monitor the log profile so they will show at the correct value no matter if you use gamma assist or not at 52ire. If you were to use zebras on rec709 not slog footage then light skin tones should be around 65 ire@@eike.zender
Finally - someone did it - they finally articulated the problem with relying solely on the In Camera Meter - you're a Godsend Jacques! Great stuff brother :)
Yeeeew thanks Joel, really appreciate that coming from you! It's been bothering me for a long time so I hope this will shed some light on the issue :)
💯 brother!
Eloquently bro, thank you
Thanks for this. I think the most important thing you touched on was exposing with the camera meter! 99% of people get it wrong and you gave a much more accurate & practical use case for it! Using these methods and Joels (Phantom) LUTs = perfection!
Lekka bru, so glad to hear that! I also got confused by the meter readings so I simply had to figure it out. Thanks for taking the time to comment, hope you have an awesome festive season!
This is incredible. I think you used the least amount of words possible to teach this. Your words to knowledge ratio has to be 1:100, mind blown. Thanks so much!!
Aaaaaaw man that makes me so glad to hear, really means a lot! Thank you Zach, only a pleasure!
The grading looks so clean bro!
DUDE! Thanks for your support man, cant wait to see your South Africa video :) :) :)
Excellent video, thanks! I'd been over-exposing 1.3 to 1.7 stops every time I shot in S-Log3, just because that's what most people say to do, but in my office set-up I'd always be struggling to bring back my highlights far enough. Exposing by eye using a monitor LUT is definitely bringing better results, will be testing out the spot metering soon though. Thanks again, great work 👊
Thanks bro, I fully understand what you mean! I also had the same experience and eventually started relying more on my eyes. I guess it's a combination of things, so for now I first try the camera's tools and then double check it with my eyes.
Which monitor lut do you use?
@@jacques_crafford how are you getting that spot meter to move around? LOL
This is what I call high quality content! Thank you, Jacques!
Thank you so much Maxim, glad you enjoyed it!
It's such a hit and miss with some of the youtubers training the youth... but this video Is very comprehensive. Well done sir
Really glad you think so. Cheers! 🙏🏼
I'm commenting because I want this video to reach more people. GREAT VIDEO🙏
Thank you for the kind gesture! 🔥
Jacques, this video is brilliantly concise and phenomenally well put together. I can clearly see the sheer amount of work that was invested. Striving for perfection indeed. Good to see Paige in the video as well!
Yaaas yaaas thanks brother, that means so much to me! Also glad you introduced Paige, was awesome working with her!
Thanks so much for this. You're giving me the courage to break away from my S-Cinetone training wheels.... scary yet exhilarating...
Really happy to hear that you are inspired, thank you so much!
Yes that’s exactly me right now losing the S-Cinetone training wheels!!!! Great video!!
You made it all make sense! Exposing SLOG3 has always been a head scratcher for me but this made it all come full circle!
So glad to hear that, thanks Jade! Hope you get much better results going forward!
You make my favorite camera videos on youtube hands down. Thanks so much dude!
Woaaah that's a big compliment, thank you Jonah!
Shooting my short film this weekend and binging all your videos before I step on set!
That's a HUGE compliment. Thank you, hope the sort film was fun! 🙏
Great video 🔥 Easiest way I found is get the Phantom Luts and just expose normally or at .7
When you drop the Phantom Luts its so easy. You dont have to go fo much adjustments. Trust me Phantom Luts is the way to go.
Yeeew thanks Armando! I agree, I prefer shooting in that range, makes post so much easier :)
Is this lut good for low light shooting as well?
@@braxtonwoullard1188 yeah but the hardest thing is to expose SLOG3 i low light.
@@armando.visuals It definitely can be, sometimes I can get clean lowlight footage. Just depends on the location and lighting. What helped me last night during my low light video test was setting my zebras to 93.
Fantastic video man. I was hoping for an Slog-3 tutorial from one of my favorite RUclipsrs, and here it was!
Thanks Jonathan, so grateful for your support! I've been meaning to make this for a while!
Thank you for this video. When exposing do you set your ISO to auto in order to have control on your MM or the oppsite ? Other youtubers say that we should always aim at ISO 800 to achieve best results.
Wonderful explanation as always brother.
thank you so much for explaining the problem with multi-meter .. and also thanks for the tips for using zebras on different situations.. best tutorial of exposing slog3 on RUclips.. (y)
So glad to hear, only a pleasure! Thanks Nafis!
this is what I wanted to hear. I always set my exopose between 1.7-2.0 before. but sometimes it feels like clips is under exposed on subject. now I know cleary. I should watch it one more time. or two times. haha thanks for the tutorial
Yay so glad to hear you found it helpful, pleasure is all mine! Thanks for taking the time to comment
I have watched many fx3 creator videos, Your definitely clearly the best shot. These are some nice scenes. I have been watching crap footage examples for weeks. :)
Great tutorial. The grey card is just not a practical option for a lot of us in real world run and gun scenarios. I'm new to the A7Siii but have found the meter is far from reliable and I jump between that, zebras, and just eyeballing it. Like the other comment above, would love to see your approach on the FX6. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
You're most welcome, thanks for taking the time to comment. I fully agree with you, I really do use all these methods together and eyeballing is often the winner :)
Thank you! I always thought I am the only one exposing at average +1.7 at the EV but I guess I was doing it right all the time even tho it didn't feel quite right. Would be nice to "recalibrate" the EV that instead of +1.7 you can set this value to 0.
This applies to the FX6 as well im assuming. For all your videos with the fx3 right?
This is such an excellent breakdown. I've learnt heaps from this. Many thanks!!
Really happy to hear this. Thank you for taking the time to comment, your support means a lot to me! 🙏
Thank you so much for making this video! I was always confused on how to expose slog 3. This video really cleared my doubts! Can't wait for more! 💪
Yay thanks for your feedback, so glad I could help Imran!
This is exactly what I needed! Your channel is a Godsend bro! Excellent production quality, easy to understand explanation, and cinematically engaging at the same time🔥👌🏾
Thanks Joshua, you have no idea how much I appreciate your words. Thanks for your support!
Best Video I ve seen in this topic! And amazing footage to look at along the way. What a beautiful Model and scenery
Thank you so much, really glad to hear that! I feel like there's still lots to be said about it but this is a start!
That is so comprehensive. Lekker vid bru keep up this content
thanks a lot and I appreciate your kindness to make this video it’s very important to me thanks for your help
Thank you for the kindness of your comment. I really appreciate that.
Great video! But so you use the Zebra C1 for shooting people to expose correctly ? And C2 for when you are shooting objects?
I'm new to the Sony ecosystem and this is incredibly helpful. Thanks, Jacques!
So glad to hear that Will, thanks for taking the time to write this!
I'll take your advice when i'll upgrade to 10 bit camera. I only have 8 bit cameras and when I shoot slog 3 i might get some banding when grading. Nice video.
Yeah man S-Log3 is really difficult with 8 Bit but if you nail the colour and exposure spot on you should be able to get away with it 95% of the time! Just stick to 4K 24/25P
Hello, thank you for the super useful video! Tell me, is zebra 50 on the skin on the developed material or on the raw slog 3?
You're welcome! 50 is on Slog3 without a LUT
This was amazingly helpful! One last question I have is regarding to the differences between SLOG 2 and 3. Personally, I used to shy away from using SLOG 3 because it was my understanding that it was harder to grade and more prone to noise if not perfectly exposed. Is this something you would personally agree on, from your own experience?
Enjoyed this video. Always love seeing other workflows! Just a note that to get maximum dynamic range, you'd actually want to ETTR, not expose in the manner you're suggesting. Love your end look though! I was never fully happy with Phantom LUTs and ended up with Leeming LUTs as my go-to for technical conversions, which require an ETTR method to squeeze out the full range.
Yeah I got you man, I actually enjoy doing Color Space Transform in DaVinci but for quicker turnarounds, the Phantom Luts are simply amazing!
Can you please do a guide on FX6 too?
The menue and tools are way different than FX6. Which slog3 is better? Slog3-Cine or just S-log3?
A general guide. Would really appreciate it since there are almost zero proper guides online on FX6
Yeah sure, I'm planning on releasing a video next week? S-Log3.cine is the better choice!
So you are using Spot-Metering everytime? When you are with your zebras at 50 +/-2 are you aiming on the skin? And with 70 at the highlights? And always spotmetering?
Thanks for the video! And your work!
Thanks for this crystal clear explanation Jacques!!
Pardon my beginner question but: When people say X stops over exposed, you mean turning the exposure Dial with the camera set on Shutter priority Auto? If I'm shooting in full manual, the exposure dial doesn't do anything!
You're welcome Arnaud! Yeah if you shoot manual the EV dial isn't relevant so the X Stops referred to are either measured with the Meter or just based on IRE values.
Hi Jacques. Thanks for sharing your views on exposing and grading SLOG3. These tips are precise, to the point and super helpful. The best part is that you've explained things using real world examples. Thanks a heap man! Cheers from Aus.
Yeeew thanks Patrick, so glad to hear that man! I hope to make many more like this one! Cheers from South Africa
that is needed! this is the best tutorial on the subject. thanks for sharing, Jacques. I'm looking forward to your alphauniverse content!
Thanks Niklas, that means a lot to me! Hope you enjoy the grading tutorial!
But how do you expose if you are outside and film while walking around. And ur multimeter is like really jumping up and down multiple stops all the time? Pls someone help!
I was wondering the same thing
Yes. It’s not a problem if the MM fluctuate. It’s natural
Like he said. Use the spot metering and put it on the spot you want correctly.exposed.
spot metering to the subject instead of multi metering
Zebras for highlights
you're great teacher, 8 minutes watch your video save me months
Yay so glad to hear that! Thanks for your kind words
This video is amazing! could you tell me how to expose s-log 3 underwater more or less?
thanks in advance!
Man, u are awesome, great mind, most important information and easy ti understand, thx!
I purchased phantom luts using ur code Thank you my friend 😊😊
So you can only dial in exposure when iso is set to automatic? When I’m native iso it doesn’t allow you to manually under or over expose. ??
subscribed. because you showed how it performs with multiple skin tones
Thanks so much, glad I could help! Appreciate the support!
I’m planning to rent one of these, and I won’t have long enough to figure out all of its complexities. I’m planning on getting footage of a lake at night (hopefully with a full moon in the shot). With regard to the aperture setting, ISO setting, and shutter speed, what would you recommend for crystal clear footage with no grain and the sharpest possible focus for everything in the frame? Also, if you set all the settings to exactly the way you want them, will it stay on those settings if you turn the camera off/change out the battery/change the SD card/etc? Thank you. :)
Remember that gamut asist does not impact zebras, so the read values of the zebras are for s log where mid gray is at 41, caucasian skin tones in a broad cast scenarios sit at 50+/- 2 and a white piece of paper is at 61. On the other hand if you have a rec 709 display, the zebras will display off of the rec 709 so caucasian skintones around 60-70 for the higest point and so on, the values change so keep that in mind.
This is something I have to explain all the time to Photographers who turn to video. The average meter doesn’t tell you anything about the subject you want to expose. False color or zebras are much more accurate and reliable.
You betcha! Thanks for your support!
I love your videos man! Straight to the point and very informative.
Thank you so much!
That means a lot, thanks Joshy I will try to keep it that way!
This video saved my life
Yay so glad to hear! Thank you
Trying to figure out metering on the A7siii was driving me crazy. This has helped so much. Will be using your zebra approach. Thank you! 👊🏿
So glad to hear that bro, thanks for taking the time to give your feedback!
epic bru! been trying out slog 3 at work!
Lekka bru, where you working now! Sounds awesome, enjoy!
Hey! Great content - I do have a question which is confusing to me.
Waveforms - when shooting in Slog3 (Sony) and Using the rec709 Lut monitor , do I based the Waveform of the Slog3 or the Lut?
Hi Jacques Crafford, I've watch all your videos and love your work very much!
Could you show your work space & the pc/mac you use?
Thanks ❤️
Thanks so much Shahir! I'll try do a video on that next year, but I'm editing on the M1 Macbook Air (I had the mini but sold it to be more mobile) they're both so fast and works great with HEVC files
What a great video explaining metering! Thanks!
You're welcome thanks for taking the time to comment!
In a7s3, in .slog 3, the noise comes from overdoing it or by reducing it further? To avoid noise, how much distance should be kept from this km to km and how much should be kept from this distance during day time and shut at night….
Brilliant video as always Jacques! The best channel ever bro well done!! I was wondering what you thought of the HLG2 and HLG3 profiles? With your immense knowledge and understanding of Sony colour science receiving your insight and best way to get the best out of these profiles would be soooo AWESOME! They seem more forgiving and easier to film with and grade, but that's just my opinion would love yours.
Thanks David, you are most kind! I actually tried out HLG3 for a while but I found that the best skintone come out of PP-Off and S-Log3. HLG is not a bad option but with the new firmware I actually prefer S-Cinetone overall except S-Log3 which I mostly shoot on these days.
@@jacques_crafford I'm shooting in 8bit on A7III, A6600 and A6400 nog steeds troue my maat🙂so I'm comfortable with HLG2 or HLG3 just not sure if I should be adjusting anything in the picture profile. Thank you Jacques
thanks boss, is the Gamma Display Assist better than using a LUT? Does it replace the loaded LUT? thanks in advance.
This is a great Video, but I will be honest, I am still struggling with Exposure and using SLOG3 through to an Atomos Ninja V. Just as Famau Media has commented, I have been following the exposure to +1.7 and +2.0 and I have been having terrible results. I am a novice, I will admit, and I am trying to learn all of this as quickly as possible having purchased the A7S iii and Atomos Ninja V, when perhaps I should have started and learned the skills on lesser gear. I will admit I am falling back to using S-Cinetone to avoid missing some key recording moments in my life, especially filming my young daughter as it's so key not to miss these things, thus the reason I invested in the best Camera and Monitor. I am still not getting this right, and still have issues with using the MM and the Ninja V Zebras and False Colours (don't get me started on how much I DO NOT understand this! lol). I will keep playing your video again and again and hopefully one day will just crack this SLOG3 approach. I have the gear, I just would almost want 1:1 training in various situations, but have yet to find anyone who can provide that. thanks again for such a great Video. Onwards and upwards !!
What a great breakdown on exposing, thank you.
Thanks Antonio, grateful for your feedback!
If I am shooting in SLOG 3 on A7SIII and recording on Ninja V, should my Zebra values be the same on both the camera and the monitor? Say if my C1 Zebra value on A7SIII is 85 should it be also set to 85 on the Ninja? Thank you.
Hey Sam I would say yes although I don't ever use Zebras on the Ninja V, maybe I should try it out but as far as I know they work on IRE values which is universal.
@@jacques_crafford thank you for the reply man. I’ve been searching for a definite answer to this and can’t seem to find it anywhere :)
You're amazing ! Thanks for all the great videos. Learning a lot!
Thanks you are most kind, so glad to hear that!
I have the same headphones, book and hard drive sitting in my office lol. Great video!
Haha how cool is that! Thanks Joe!
AMAZING video and useful as always. Respect man for sharing amazing knowledge for free 🍻
Only a pleasure man, appreciate you taking time to write this!
Love the videos dude. If im shooting on the go, say travel films, could I use a Rec709 LUT in camera just to help me get the correct exposure quickly and then use the phantom luts in post?
Great video !! Love the shots with the rhino!! Regards to Ant
Thanks so much dude!
What's is picture profile did you used? and how did you customize on slog?
So for the examples you've shown, which method do you use the most when using an external recorder.... false colour, IRE, zebras or spot metering?
I use the Waveform, just because it's faster than False Color!
Hi! The settings for zebra are for shooting in the slog3 on monitor, and what about if I use your lut in my camera display assistant? Which settings I should to set up? Thank you!
Hi Jacques. Have you tried the slog 3 correction lut from sony? I wonder how come it look SO different from the Phantom neutral look. The Phantom lut is much flatter
Yes bro, I really dig it. It's got more colour for sure but I like the reds in the Phantom LUTs
Hi man! Great content 💪🏻
One question, if the clipping point for highlights in slog3 is at 94, why are u setting up zebras to 75? I’m struggling a bit in run&gun situations where you cannot control light and exposure with the right amount of time. Thks in advance!
Skin tone
Hey Jac, at 7:02 you say you would bring the highlights up to 95 IRE if you want more detail in the shadows. But doesn't SLOG3 clip at 94 IRE? So wouldn't anything at 94 IRE or above be clipped? I'm confused.
Yes you are right, I should have phrased it better. What I meant is that 95 is where I stop to go down, so my limit is 94 but when I hit 95 I know I should go down. With False Colour I just watch out for the orange!
At 2:30 I’m assuming you overexposed that image to get that look? I always run into trouble for spots like that. Also I could never get the white balance to look like this when shooting. I just got a color checker 😂
Great watch ! Can you do a video on false color one day, preferably w the atomos ninja V 🍻
Amazing video! One question you use auto iso ? our manual ISO filming with Slog3? Thank you :D
"I have A7SIII"
With your IRE set around 50 for skintones you basically shoot SLOG at average of +1EV metering, giving you 5 stops of overexposure latitude and a tiny bit more noise in the shadows which is totally fine. I do the same ;) Though I've set it to 53%
Exactly, I think 53% is very good because I tend to push mine just a little bit further also, depends on the lighting. Thanks for taking the time to give your feedback, much appreciated!
@@jacques_crafford yellow skitong is 55% +_1 == ninjiav green+1 .but whitepage =75?
I thought Caucasian skin tones were in the low 60s in IRE. That's what a lot of people suggest. Why is this so ambiguous to me 😅
@@PrincessAndJuan It's not that simple. 1. First of all exposing skintones is a matter of artistic choice. How will you want them to look in the final image? Dark? Neutral? Overexposed?
2. Many films often have skintones exposed ≈ a stop under. This is not a rule. Many films have them exposed level too.
Remember one setting and thinking you've understood the process won't work.
You need to study photography, do your own tests/shoots and know the latitude of your camera.
Look zone metering theory also!
Best of luck!
This video is nicely put together, you got a new Sub here. Thanks for the excellent explanation.
Aaaaw thanks for your kind words, really appreciate it!
Hey Jacques! I have a question, how would you go about exposing slog3 on the a7sIII using the Ninja V.
Would you even recommend using a monitoring LUT, if yes which one?
Or should I set the Ninja V monitoring to native, Rec709 or PQ?
And how would you set up the zebras on the Ninja V after that?
Would mean the world to me, thank you for your amazing Videos!
Cool man, glad you asked! I mostly expose without the LUT and then just use the Neutral Phantom LUT to monitor but to be honest, I mostly use the waveform in full screen and look on the camera screen when it comes to exposure. Then I switch back to the monitor LUT.
@@jacques_crafford Thank you!
YEs you said it. When I hear people giving straight values fit all makes my skin itch. Zebras are a good tool to compare against the meeter to know that the meter gets it wrong a lot.
Very good Jacques 👏 but I think I don’t have a spot meter at my Fx6 🤔
Thanks mate, with the FX6 I just use the Waveform as that always gives me the best results!
@@jacques_crafford thanks 🙏 I will try it 👍🏻
Thanks again for the awesome information! You always put out such great videos!
Thanks for your wonderful support Timmy, really glad to hear you enjoyed it!
def gotta try out the spot metering!
Very impressive tutorial! Thanks!
So glad to hear that you're welcome!
Thank you for the video! But shall I see the zebras in C1, when exposing midtones/skin or should they slightly disappear? Thanks 😊
Only a pleasure mate! You should definitely see them. When shooting darker skintones you might have to adjust the threshold to 35-40 but in all cases only see zebras on the brightest part of the skin.
@@jacques_crafford Thank you so much - keep up the good work!
@@jacques_crafford it's me again :D I'm courios why we shoulndt just use the zebras at 70, as this is where the skin tones sit? In this case I just could dial in the exposure by avoidng the zebras to appear. What do you think? Thank you mate and all the best
heyy love your content but can you make a video how you color grade SL3 but using premiere? thanks
Thank you very much! Sadly I don't have premiere anymore but I will upload a video about how I colour grade in DaVinci, it will be using the same principles as Premiere.
@@jacques_crafford ok thanks so much
Thank you. Love your Channel. Looking forward to more content
Thanks Matt, so appreciate your kind words! Cant wait to share more :)
Great Content as always!
Thanks Henri, really appreciate it!
Clean and detailed. love it
Thanks a ton Nick!
Thanks awesome video!! Idk why I just got a ninja v for the a7siii and when I try to preview with phantom luts it looks completely broken, how do you get your luts to display properly? Thanks so much again for the video!
You're welcome Thomas! I'm not sure why that happens but you get a grading LUT and a viewing LUT and it might be that you're using the grading LUT.
@@jacques_crafford thank you!!
this is really a nice explanation and detail video, appreciate it and thanks for the tips,
what is your ''one click conversion" ? and also are you just on default SLog3 Sgamut3 CINE?
Thanks for your kind words! I'm using the Phantom LUTS for conversion bit.ly/3cqdikV Yes I always use the default SLog3 Sgamut3.cine :)
Hi Jacques, how about the zebra settings for slog 2 on a7iii? Can you share your advices?
Hey Joschija! I haven't played around with it yet but I'm guessing it will be exactly the same if you use the Phantom LUTS like I do
Dang man, what a great and helpful video! Thank you!
You're most welcome, thanks for taking the time to give feedback :)
Hi Jacques. Could you explain EI? Is there a recommended EI?
This is almost perfect. Should be an edit to add that IRE values vary for different skin tones. Not all subjects are pale white.
YOUR CONTENT IS AMAZING! THANK YOU :)
Thank you so much, really appreciate your feedback!
Wow just discovered your channel. This was extremely well done! 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Thank you so much! Really appreciate your comment! 🙏
Great tutorial! Do you load the Phantom LUTs on your camera to preview as you shoot??
Thanks Robert! Yes I do but only on the FX3, F30 and FX6, the A7sIII can't accept custom LUTs