I don’t normally comment on videos but a video with all this info together, told quickly and concisely is just what I was looking for. Well done. You earned a sub!
Using s log 3 with s gamut 3 cine on my smartphone using mcpro 24FPS application, loving the dynamic range and less noise and 0 banding. Sony imx 682 image sensor in my realme 7 already has the reddish tint so I face no green tint issue while grading faces☺️
I just watched this video so I am sorry if I am late in commenting but I wanna just correct some misconception. First is the green tint issue. There is no green tint issue on Slog3 provided that you used a good accurate lighting such as Nanlite and Aputure lights, you have the right white balance setting on your camera, and your scene really doesnt have that issue at all like for example light bouncing off a green leaf so of course your subject will have a green tint, and you used CST or ACES transform if you are on Davinci Resolve, or if you are on Premiere or FCP, then you should use the LUT provided by Sony themselves because it will correctly map your image from Slog3 to Rec 709. You dont need to adjust the color phase setting. As for setting the right white balance, just match the setting to your light source so for example if your light source is 5600k then set your camera to 5600k, if its tungsten then set it to around 3000-3600k. Setting custom white balance and point it to what you think is a white object such as walls can be very bad because most likely those objects are not pure white. The safest bet is to just know what is the light source of your scene because most likely you wont have a pure white object for the custom white balance to work properly. I'm not sure about Alister Luts though I think it can be a very good show LUT for your camera monitor, but the safest bet during post is just to use Sony's Slog3 to Rec 709 LUT or their other transform LUTs depending on what color space output you would need, perhaps DCI-P3 output. Sony's LUTs are the safest bet to have an accurate starting point in post because they themselves are making the camera and know fully the color science because they made it therefore they could correctly map it. As for the saturated red, that shouldn't happen if you used Sony's LUT, unless the object is really a highly saturated red in real life. There shouldn't be any issues if you are using Sony's LUT, or if you are in Davinci Resolve the ACES transform or Color Space Transform (CST) because as what I've said, they should properly mapped it to the desired output color space. It should properly show you how the scene really was if you properly shot it so if the reds on your scene is really not highly saturated then it shouldn't be that saturated when its being transformed. Of course, the LUTs should be during the end of your pipeline because all LUTs are destructive in nature if you grade after applying the LUT.
as expected from you, this really is one of the best and easiest to understand videos on properly exposing slog3 that I've seen. perfect for me since i'm still learning how to properly take advantage of slog3.
Still on an 8-bit camera here, lately I've been using S-log3, but withe the 709matrix color profile and it grades beautifully! Have actually had less banding and cracking issues than with S-log2.
I've always used a custom Cine4 PP when I used to shoot on the a6300 and the A7III because of the 8-bit colors like you mentioned, and still do with the A7SIII, but after watching this video I might give S-log 3 a try.
Pro tip: Set the detail level to +3 and de sharpen it a lil bit in the post. Because I have tested software sharpening and sony's sharpening. Sony's one is actually good. I don't know why people hate it.
I use cine4 on my sony a7III, a6400 and a7 IV. As a wedding videographer there are a lot of times that you can't really take a lot time to expose properly because things are happening really fast sometimes. So in my opinion, if you don't expose SLOG properly, there will be too much noise. With cine4, you have a bit of room to tweak it a little bit and you expose to what you see= faster edition. I would love to do it in S-LOG. I do not use CINETONE because it's harder to match my b/c cameras to my main camera (a7 iv). If the others had cinetone, I would use cinetone.
I used to use Cine4 as well, and I also shoot weddings occasionally, but since I’ve learned how to work with slog - the results are miles better and I use it all the time.
Color phase rotates the hue, it doesn't just "add magenta". A positive value will move reds toward magenta, yellows toward red, purple toward blue, blue toward cyan etc.
Hey man just a tip, you can set a custom zebra setting at the exact zebra clipping point for slog 3. Make a custom zebra set for lower limit 91 (if I remember my settings correctly)
Very straightforward tutorial, thank you! If I'm understanding right, the best use of LUTs isn't to apply drastic filters to your image, but instead to do these two things: A) In post, easily convert your log footage into a more manageable color space like Rec 709 while still keeping the extra image data that log affords. B) While shooting, using in-monitor LUTs made for log to get a less flat, easier to see image, while also helping you expose to the optimal level. Am I getting this right, or am I way off base? Thanks again! I just started using the A7SIII with the Ninja V for work and want to make sure I'm getting the most out of them.
Of course) these are basically the same cameras in different bodies and a couple of different features, but the color, sensor, internals - all the same
"I use zebras at 95 because at 100 the camera won't show you the zebras for some reason" It's because you passed the max clipping point for slog 3 and sony stops to show you zebras. You could read more about it here: helpguide.sony.net/di/pp/v1/en/contents/TP0000909109.html So, for slog 3 the clipping point is 94% and for slog 2, for example, it is 106%
@@antonisdavis2288 Hi! If I remember correctly he speaks about 55% (which is 1.3 steps overexpose of a gray card (which should be originally at 41% for s log 3 if you take a look at the sony help guide above). 65% might be a skin tone exposure (he shows how to use zebras for different skin tones on some of his videos). But in my comment above I speak about the maximum values for slog 3 and why you cannot see zebras if you set zebras on 100%. Sorry for my English if I wrote it a bit unclear! P.S. From my little experience it's fine to expose using 95% (or maybe a bit less, like 90% to be more safe) if you shoot nature outside and you have a bright source somewhere (like sky). It won't so good as if you expose it really correctly, but you need to keep in mind that you need to use gray cards for correct exposure every time when lighting is changed. And it means you will spend a couple of minutes for almost every shot outside. So, from my point of view (but definitely I might be wrong) you can use zebras on 95% for travel videos since you usually don't have time to expose properly your shot, especially if you don't shoot a person as a main object in your frame. But everyone choose whatever it works for him :) If you have good results in the end and you are not going to sell your footage, so why not? :)
Hi, for setting the custom white balance, would I need a card to do so with if nothing is white in the scene. I was lost abit that bit when you set the custom value. Thanks
Greet video. Just wanted to ask what’s the best Zebra level for skin tones in slog3 .? You mentioned 75 ire in your slog2 video would the same apply for slog3 .? Or is it different.
@@NOlimitsON thanks for the reply i rewatched the video . You didn’t mentioned it here . You mentioned it in your other video (Cleaner image at any iso) which I just saw but I am glad everyone can see it in the comments now.
when you're color grading this footage in post, do you do any log to rec709 lut first and then add the allister lut? if so what's the best slog3 to rec709 do you recommend?
So basically when shooting slog: -Try to use native iso -Always expose to +2 EV? I got the atomos shinobi 5`` for the a7IV, when loading/activating a LUT in the shinobi for filming in slog3 do I need to pay attention that the LUT is a -2EV version? Or do LUT creators provide that as standard for slog3 anyways? Tanks for your content!
Hi, thanks for a well produced tutorial. Alister’s LUTs downloads have a bunch of options; the ones I have downloaded today have different names than the ones you are using. Is there any info you can provide to point to right download link?
Hey there! Such a great and efficient video! Just a question...on the Sony ZV-E1 when activating LOG-shooting, you are not allowed to select a PP or adjust the color phase. Does that mean it's better to not use the Alister LUT and rather go with the 709 from sony? Thanks for your time!!
Thank you so much for this in-depth video, Aran. At 2:30, I saw you brought down the brightness of the entire shot. Did you bring the exposure down across the board. Wouldn't it be better to bring down the Gamma/ mid tones instead to prevent the shadows from being crushed? I am genuinely curious because I shoot most of my videos slightly overexposed (+0.7) to retain detail in the shadows and mid-tones. I generally just bring the Gamma wheel down a bit and put the highlights to around -20 to make the image look less bright.
I have watched a lot of videos on this topic and many of them touched upon the points you've mentioned, but none did so with such efficiency and accuracy. Very concise and thorough explanation, thank you for this! One question, which I think I already know the answer to but want to confirm if I am correct. When I set the zebras to the IRE for skin tones (75%ish depending on skin tone), I'm following the same process as exposing at 95% IRE for non-human subjects? Set the zebra level to around 75% and once the zebras show on the persons skin, dial it back 1/3 of a stop. Is that the gist of it?
I’ve seen some videos that said slog is not good to shoot at night which left me confused because if I’m shooting the rest of my footage on slog 3 how will I match the two and what should I shoot at?
Watch the video once again and the one that’s in the description about iso performance in different picture profiles. You’ll understand that slog3 is the best profile for low-light
hello and thank you for the video! i have a question : i have a sony alpha 7S mark II but if I set my camera on slog3 my iso starts at 1600. i deduce i can't operate at your Iso due to the model of the machine. have any suggestion about manteining the quality using another PP? thx
Hey) thank you Simone! Sony a7s2 native iso is 1600, it can’t go lower in slog3, but I recommend shooting on Slog2 on this camera and all 8bit cameras - I even have a separate video about it)) check it out on my channel
Short and to the point...thank you. Using Zebras for exposure gets alittle more complicated if you are outside or your subject has a bright background because you will most certainly have zebras displayed on the background if you are using Multi Metering Mode because camera is metering all of the image. Which exposure metering mode do you use? are you constantly changing modes as you go?
Oleg, the luts in this video link are named differently than what are shown in your video. Alister_V-Look_-2p00 (Download) vs Alister_V-Look_V3_-2p00 (This video). It is possible that Alister has moved or changed what you linked, can you provide your luts used from your computer in this demonstration as a fresh download link? It would be best to link a zip file of what you used from your computer, as we don't know the status of these new luts (updated or modified) since posting. I would like to do testing on my footage. Thank you.
@@NOlimitsON Those files names on alisters website also do not match what is presented in this video, I have checked. He might have modified or changed it.
Thank you so much. Can you elaborate on why slog2 works better for 8 bit? Using an a7c and not sure which picture profile will allow me the most flexibility in post
Hey)) Welcome) 8 bit is very limiting in terms of colours - only 16 million vs 1 billion on the 10 bit. So the less saturated the picture profile and the flatter the profile (S-log3 is much flatter, than S-log2), the more you need to push the colours and exposure in post - so you'll change colours more and you can have some banding in gradients of colours and some blocks of colour, because there is just not enough colour info, especially with heavy grades. So my advice is to use Slog2 on 8 bit (still exposing at +1.7 - +2 stops), and Slog3 on 10-bit cameras.
Should I use my exposure compensation wheel to +1.0-2.0 for slog3 in order to easily be overexposing? Or is that not a good recommended method for exposing in slog3??
I wouldn’t recommend using it often - the exposure metering can be misleading and you can over or under expose a lot. Better use zebras as I show in the video, my friend)
So for SLOG3 on a7siii for example if aperture is lowest (2.8 on my 12-24gm lens), shutter is 60 (30fps), and iso is 640 (recommended for a7siii), and the meter is showing 0 or negative number, which of the 3 above to I put higher to increase light and get to overexposure +1.7-2? I don’t want to touch aperture, so should I up the iso? Not shutter speed? Please help!
NO limits ON thank you so much it works just tested that :)! do you ever experience color banding in the floors/walls when using slog3? For some reason I am getting perfect exposure now, but with 4K 30fps XAVC S 10bit 4:2:2 I am getting some color banding in the walls/floors …. Any idea how I can fix this while recording?
@@41vids hey) you can have some banding in extreme colorgrades or after exporting the file in low bitrate for instance)) you can check my video on ProRes RAW (there actually 2), there I show the difference between 8 bit, 10 bit and 12 bit - and you can clearly see where the banding appears
Yes, you can use the LUTs, there some for S-Log2 as well. Yes the exposing to the right is working in a7III and S-Log2 as well, be be careful and use zebras at 90-95 to protect your highlights. I have a video A7s3, A73, Z-Cam E2, where we compare S-log3 and PP off and the amount of noise on different exposures, you can check that video out as well to see the results of exposing to the right.
Hey! Thanx! Well... in All-I codec it works ok, the XAVC-S 25p is also doing good, but if you wanna edit 50p or 100p 4K - I make proxies) But for most of the time I record in ProRes LT onto my Atomos Ninja V)))
Do I need a ND filter? Also are you using the exposure dial at all? I typically expose to +1.3-1.7 on the meter. I also noticed you use using FCPX, do you ever use the built in LUTs for SLOG 3?
Hey) No, I don't use built-in luts, because they tend to overexpose my image, I use Alister Chapman's. I don't use the exposure dial (only when shooting concerts, where the lighting changes a lot, but I have to shoot in 1 long take), I set the exposure manually almost all the time and expose at +2 using zebras or false colour.
Hey) I have a separate review and comparison of Atomos Ninja V and SmallHD Focus 5 if you are interested) But I didn't really get your question about differences)) Can you make it a little more clear?)
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Which picture profile do you use and why?
#Sony #Slog #Slog3 #Log #Sonya7s3 #Sonya7sIII #Slog3footage
cine2 a7iii
@@STEALTH5802 to be honest I don’t like the look of S-Cinetone 😅
@@NOlimitsON why you don't like I.mean whats is the difference between them s log 3 and s cinetone
@@Storiesbyharii dynamic range and color
I don’t normally comment on videos but a video with all this info together, told quickly and concisely is just what I was looking for. Well done. You earned a sub!
Thank you very much! I appreciate it!
This is one of the best videos on slog3 I’ve watched
Thanks mate) stay tuned)
Very informative in less than 5min!!! Great job again 👏🏻
Thank you! I appreciate it!
Just upgraded to the a7s III from the a6400, and this video is perfect for me! I appreciate your detailed explanations too.
Welcome mate)) stay tuned)
Using s log 3 with s gamut 3 cine on my smartphone using mcpro 24FPS application, loving the dynamic range and less noise and 0 banding.
Sony imx 682 image sensor in my realme 7 already has the reddish tint so I face no green tint issue while grading faces☺️
Finally someone who uses ire and false color rather than just +2 ev. Most RUclipsrs get it wrong and I just feel very sad for them.
Thank you for this positive reaction))
Great informative video! Comments are very productive and the author answers every question. Class act! 🔥
Thanks Alan! I appreciate it! Stay tuned!
I just watched this video so I am sorry if I am late in commenting but I wanna just correct some misconception. First is the green tint issue. There is no green tint issue on Slog3 provided that you used a good accurate lighting such as Nanlite and Aputure lights, you have the right white balance setting on your camera, and your scene really doesnt have that issue at all like for example light bouncing off a green leaf so of course your subject will have a green tint, and you used CST or ACES transform if you are on Davinci Resolve, or if you are on Premiere or FCP, then you should use the LUT provided by Sony themselves because it will correctly map your image from Slog3 to Rec 709. You dont need to adjust the color phase setting. As for setting the right white balance, just match the setting to your light source so for example if your light source is 5600k then set your camera to 5600k, if its tungsten then set it to around 3000-3600k. Setting custom white balance and point it to what you think is a white object such as walls can be very bad because most likely those objects are not pure white. The safest bet is to just know what is the light source of your scene because most likely you wont have a pure white object for the custom white balance to work properly. I'm not sure about Alister Luts though I think it can be a very good show LUT for your camera monitor, but the safest bet during post is just to use Sony's Slog3 to Rec 709 LUT or their other transform LUTs depending on what color space output you would need, perhaps DCI-P3 output. Sony's LUTs are the safest bet to have an accurate starting point in post because they themselves are making the camera and know fully the color science because they made it therefore they could correctly map it. As for the saturated red, that shouldn't happen if you used Sony's LUT, unless the object is really a highly saturated red in real life. There shouldn't be any issues if you are using Sony's LUT, or if you are in Davinci Resolve the ACES transform or Color Space Transform (CST) because as what I've said, they should properly mapped it to the desired output color space. It should properly show you how the scene really was if you properly shot it so if the reds on your scene is really not highly saturated then it shouldn't be that saturated when its being transformed. Of course, the LUTs should be during the end of your pipeline because all LUTs are destructive in nature if you grade after applying the LUT.
as expected from you, this really is one of the best and easiest to understand videos on properly exposing slog3 that I've seen. perfect for me since i'm still learning how to properly take advantage of slog3.
Raptor, thank you man! Appreciate it! Enjoy using slog3))
This video is super informative! Been looking for concise info about this stuff for a long time. Nice work
Thanks mate)) stay tuned!
Still on an 8-bit camera here, lately I've been using S-log3, but withe the 709matrix color profile and it grades beautifully! Have actually had less banding and cracking issues than with S-log2.
Cool! I have an s-log2 tutorial for 8-bit cameras as well
@@NOlimitsON I’ll have to check it out! Caleb Pike’s tutorial was a game-changer for me
Just started using SLOG3 and love it!
I’m glad)) stay tuned)
@@NOlimitsON 👍🏼
This tutorial was really helpful. Thanks
Welcome mate)
Thanks for this short but all you need to know Video! Love this camera.
Thanks! I appreciate it!
So much informations in 5 minutes! Thanks for this video this helps me out 😊🤗
You’re welcome)) stay tuned!
I've always used a custom Cine4 PP when I used to shoot on the a6300 and the A7III because of the 8-bit colors like you mentioned, and still do with the A7SIII, but after watching this video I might give S-log 3 a try.
Give it a try, you'll love it))
So when you use A7iii, what log pp you use? Slog 2? Thanks in advance
@@xiaoyiyingmusic for the A7III, I would use Cine4. I would avoid using log with 8-bit.
Pro tip: Set the detail level to +3 and de sharpen it a lil bit in the post. Because I have tested software sharpening and sony's sharpening. Sony's one is actually good. I don't know why people hate it.
going to try this out buddy
Welcome to Istanbul🖤
Straight to the point! So helpful
Welcome mate) stay tuned)
Super straight forward and informative information, love the way you teach. Subbed and liked!
Thanks mate! I appreciate it! Stay tuned!
I use cine4 on my sony a7III, a6400 and a7 IV. As a wedding videographer there are a lot of times that you can't really take a lot time to expose properly because things are happening really fast sometimes. So in my opinion, if you don't expose SLOG properly, there will be too much noise.
With cine4, you have a bit of room to tweak it a little bit and you expose to what you see= faster edition.
I would love to do it in S-LOG. I do not use CINETONE because it's harder to match my b/c cameras to my main camera (a7 iv). If the others had cinetone, I would use cinetone.
I used to use Cine4 as well, and I also shoot weddings occasionally, but since I’ve learned how to work with slog - the results are miles better and I use it all the time.
Color phase rotates the hue, it doesn't just "add magenta". A positive value will move reds toward magenta, yellows toward red, purple toward blue, blue toward cyan etc.
Correct
@@NOlimitsON hi, do you recomended that setting for a7iii on slog2?
@@paulamontenegro7778 hey) I do have a separate video on Slog2 for 8-bit cameras - check this out in my channel)
Hey man just a tip, you can set a custom zebra setting at the exact zebra clipping point for slog 3. Make a custom zebra set for lower limit 91 (if I remember my settings correctly)
Cool) thanks!
I think it’s +94 based on Leeming lut info
Yep 94 was also suggested by Matt Whoismatt Johnson
Awesome vid. Quick, to the point.. very informative. 10 out of 10. Keep up the good work man. And thank you. 🎥🚀👍
Thanks Rich)) I’m glad you liked it! Stay tuned)
@@NOlimitsON will do!! 👍👍
hola yo uso el solcito cuando hay sol, o la nube cuando esta nublado, con eso obtengo las mejoras tomas.
Thank you for making this very nice tutorial - it has helped me a lot!
- Martin
Thanx for watching! I appreciate it!
Unrelated, but I loved your Istanbul footage. I'd like to see the whole video if you've published it on somewhere
Hi) thank you) it is published and called Istanbul 4K or something) you can look around the same date on my channel - you’ll find it)
@@NOlimitsON gotcha. Thanks!
感谢这个视频让我在slog上准确的曝光了，感谢！！！！
I use Cinetone....cuz Potatoe Jet said so...I'm pretty new to the A7S3 and sony in general having only shot with canons for the past 4 years.
Try slog3 - you’ll be pleased)
Thank you so much for your fine video. Have been using HLG3 BT2020, but now want to explore S-Log.
Welcome)) Thanx for watching!
Fantastic video brother 👊🏼
Thank you! Stay tuned!
Subscribed to your channel for correctly converting slog to rec709. Cheers mate
Thank you! Stay tuned! Greetings from Russia, mate!
Thats was very useful thanks a lot
Thank you Christoph! Stay tuned ☺️
great video man thanks a lot !
Thanks man - great Tutorial.
Thanks! I appreciate it
Very straightforward tutorial, thank you! If I'm understanding right, the best use of LUTs isn't to apply drastic filters to your image, but instead to do these two things:
A) In post, easily convert your log footage into a more manageable color space like Rec 709 while still keeping the extra image data that log affords.
B) While shooting, using in-monitor LUTs made for log to get a less flat, easier to see image, while also helping you expose to the optimal level.
Am I getting this right, or am I way off base? Thanks again! I just started using the A7SIII with the Ninja V for work and want to make sure I'm getting the most out of them.
Yes, Anthony, you’re correct😉 thank you! Stay tuned 💪🏼
@@NOlimitsON thank you!! I subbed and will stay tuned for more!
@@AnthonyValli thanks 💪🏼
Which Gerald Undone video are you referencing in this video? I couldn’t find it in the description.
This one - ruclips.net/video/1qJXvxDFcYE/видео.html
anyone know if these settings apply to the sony fx3?
Of course) these are basically the same cameras in different bodies and a couple of different features, but the color, sensor, internals - all the same
@@NOlimitsON nice, thanks for the headsup! 👍
@@Kevlexicon 😎😎😎
Thanks man! Great video. Much love to Turkey ❤️
Thank you)) Glad to hear that!
thanks for this simple sand useful video!
You are welcome)) Stay tuned)
Hi, it looks like the Alister chapman link takes you to the Venice Look LUTs and once you download those, they only have SLog2 LUTs?
Hey! On the website you can find luts for both slog2 and slog3
Krasavchik, Oleg)
спасибо!
Great info 👍🏻
Thanks mate) Stay tuned!
You can just use the trim function under the crop tool for skin tones instead mask tool. Saves a step
Thanks)) Never tried to do it like so))
how would you set the zebras for vlogging?
Hey) I’d set for 75 and expose for the skin ☺️
@@NOlimitsON thanks
What do you suggest for sony zv-1? I do what you say but i have to much exposure on my face when i vloggin.
Watch my video on S-Log2 and also you can use Movie Gamma and Movie Color for faster grading
Great video, nice
Thanks!
nice , thank you :)
Welcome) stay tuned mate)
Great video
Thank you!
"I use zebras at 95 because at 100 the camera won't show you the zebras for some reason"
It's because you passed the max clipping point for slog 3 and sony stops to show you zebras.
You could read more about it here: helpguide.sony.net/di/pp/v1/en/contents/TP0000909109.html
So, for slog 3 the clipping point is 94% and for slog 2, for example, it is 106%
Thanx!
hallo! ibyhink that Gearald Undone says to expose with zebras at 65, why you say at 95?
@@antonisdavis2288 Hi! If I remember correctly he speaks about 55% (which is 1.3 steps overexpose of a gray card (which should be originally at 41% for s log 3 if you take a look at the sony help guide above). 65% might be a skin tone exposure (he shows how to use zebras for different skin tones on some of his videos). But in my comment above I speak about the maximum values for slog 3 and why you cannot see zebras if you set zebras on 100%. Sorry for my English if I wrote it a bit unclear!
P.S. From my little experience it's fine to expose using 95% (or maybe a bit less, like 90% to be more safe) if you shoot nature outside and you have a bright source somewhere (like sky). It won't so good as if you expose it really correctly, but you need to keep in mind that you need to use gray cards for correct exposure every time when lighting is changed. And it means you will spend a couple of minutes for almost every shot outside. So, from my point of view (but definitely I might be wrong) you can use zebras on 95% for travel videos since you usually don't have time to expose properly your shot, especially if you don't shoot a person as a main object in your frame. But everyone choose whatever it works for him :) If you have good results in the end and you are not going to sell your footage, so why not? :)
Hi, for setting the custom white balance, would I need a card to do so with if nothing is white in the scene. I was lost abit that bit when you set the custom value. Thanks
You’d better pick a card))
for a7iv which profile picture cn use for s log3
Any)) all picture profiles are just containers. So pick the one you want and change the settings as I show in the video
Greet video. Just wanted to ask what’s the best Zebra level for skin tones in slog3 .? You mentioned 75 ire in your slog2 video would the same apply for slog3 .? Or is it different.
Thanks) as I said in the video - it’s 70-75 zebra level for skin tone.
@@NOlimitsON thanks for the reply i rewatched the video . You didn’t mentioned it here . You mentioned it in your other video (Cleaner image at any iso) which I just saw but I am glad everyone can see it in the comments now.
@@AbdaliProductions 😎👍🏻
Are there any new external devices so you can get the 15 stops from the Camera?
You can get full dynamic range internally using S-Log3 S-Gamut3.Cine
does the plus 2 saturation apply to fx30 also ?
Sure
Thanks!)
Welcome, Alexandr!))
when you're color grading this footage in post, do you do any log to rec709 lut first and then add the allister lut? if so what's the best slog3 to rec709 do you recommend?
I don’t) I clearly showed a step by step process in the video
So basically when shooting slog:
-Try to use native iso
-Always expose to +2 EV?
I got the atomos shinobi 5`` for the a7IV, when loading/activating a LUT in the shinobi for filming in slog3 do I need to pay attention that the LUT is a -2EV version? Or do LUT creators provide that as standard for slog3 anyways?
Tanks for your content!
Hey) welcome) upload the -2EV Lut to Shinobi - that is very important! Otherwise - yes, you understood the recommendations correctly
Would love to see a video about Panasonic camera the Lumix s5
Maybe one day))
Hi, thanks for a well produced tutorial. Alister’s LUTs downloads have a bunch of options; the ones I have downloaded today have different names than the ones you are using. Is there any info you can provide to point to right download link?
Thanks! Here it is - disk.yandex.ru/d/ExuTgTHlwcbHkQ
@@NOlimitsON That is fabulous … thanks so much!
@@Roz-Inspire-Video welcome)) stay tuned
As of the new 2.0 update would you still recommend the +2 color phase on a picture profile? Or the new log mode?
I’d say it’s up to you, it can be easily corrected in post when you shoot 10-bit. I keep mine at +2 magenta
For skin tones what setting use
What r your thoughts on PP8.
Every PP is just a container - you can set any settings in it and use it))
I am currently using sony a7 R III, I have a lot of noise problem while using S log3 I use 8 stop ND filter for day light.
Hey) use Slog2 instead and watch my video on Slog2 with 8 bit cameras - you’ll definitely get much better results 😎
I believe you don't see zebras at 100 because Slog three clips white at 94 IRE
Hey there! Such a great and efficient video! Just a question...on the Sony ZV-E1 when activating LOG-shooting, you are not allowed to select a PP or adjust the color phase. Does that mean it's better to not use the Alister LUT and rather go with the 709 from sony? Thanks for your time!!
Hey) don’t worry, the hue shift issue is already fixed, so you can simply turn on the log shooting mode and work with it straight away
@@NOlimitsON Alright, I see. Thanks so much for the response!🙏
can´t I record slog with the lut burned on it on ninja v so my image is already color corrected when i open in computer?
As far as I know - you can not
Do you apply sharpness on slog3 footage in post? ,cause its -7 in default
I leave it at -7 and very rarely apply any sharpness in post - it’s already very sharp
@@NOlimitsON Ok,thanks 🙂🙏🏻
Excelent!
Thank you!)
Which Picture Profile Settings do you recommend for S Log 2? And which zebra Level? I’m asking for my A7iii
I’ll make a separate video about it, but in a few words I can say - use S-Log 2 - color phase +2, zebras at 90-95 and you’ll be airtight ☺️
@@NOlimitsON Thank you!
Great vid!! Which program are you editing / grading in?
Hey) thank you Scott! I use Final Cut Pro X
Thanks for the video....do you set zebra's for skin tones. Alistair Luts mentions skin tones to be at 55-60
Hey) thank you! I set it to be lower than 75 - it grades good)
Thank you so much for this in-depth video, Aran. At 2:30, I saw you brought down the brightness of the entire shot. Did you bring the exposure down across the board. Wouldn't it be better to bring down the Gamma/ mid tones instead to prevent the shadows from being crushed?
I am genuinely curious because I shoot most of my videos slightly overexposed (+0.7) to retain detail in the shadows and mid-tones. I generally just bring the Gamma wheel down a bit and put the highlights to around -20 to make the image look less bright.
Thanks)) if you wanna learn more about they it’s so important to expose slog correctly watch this video - ruclips.net/video/dYu8umm8MJo/видео.html
I have watched a lot of videos on this topic and many of them touched upon the points you've mentioned, but none did so with such efficiency and accuracy. Very concise and thorough explanation, thank you for this!
One question, which I think I already know the answer to but want to confirm if I am correct. When I set the zebras to the IRE for skin tones (75%ish depending on skin tone), I'm following the same process as exposing at 95% IRE for non-human subjects? Set the zebra level to around 75% and once the zebras show on the persons skin, dial it back 1/3 of a stop. Is that the gist of it?
Thanks mate) I appreciate it! Yes, you just expose as bright as possible, but so the skin doesn’t have any zebras on it.
0:33 Can i ask how you can record screen video like that; thank you!
Use Atomos ninja V recorder, set the camera hdmi settings to show display info and then press record on the recorder
@@NOlimitsON thank you so much.
Does anybody know if the tint fix useful for the a7IV?
I can’t say yet, since a7IV isn’t available in Russia yet…
hello. im new at this. does the camera produce mp4 as output? so you grade .mp4 files?
As far as I remember it's .mov - so I grade MOV files) But it doesn't really matter
I've checked, yes it's MP4, but still container doesn't matter))
I’ve seen some videos that said slog is not good to shoot at night which left me confused because if I’m shooting the rest of my footage on slog 3 how will I match the two and what should I shoot at?
Watch the video once again and the one that’s in the description about iso performance in different picture profiles. You’ll understand that slog3 is the best profile for low-light
hello and thank you for the video!
i have a question : i have a sony alpha 7S mark II but if I set my camera on slog3 my iso starts at 1600.
i deduce i can't operate at your Iso due to the model of the machine.
have any suggestion about manteining the quality using another PP? thx
Hey) thank you Simone! Sony a7s2 native iso is 1600, it can’t go lower in slog3, but I recommend shooting on Slog2 on this camera and all 8bit cameras - I even have a separate video about it)) check it out on my channel
@@NOlimitsON wonderful! Thank you i’ll give it a go!
@@GodHetfield you’re welcome) stay tuned ☺️
I use HLG2
Unfortunately that is one of the most non-correct profile in terms of colour accuracy...
Great video. Why is your shutters speed set at 1/100 when shooting 24 frames?
Thanx! Sometimes)) I forgot my ND-filters at home during this trip - so I cranked up the shutter speed a little sometimes
Short and to the point...thank you. Using Zebras for exposure gets alittle more complicated if you are outside or your subject has a bright background because you will most certainly have zebras displayed on the background if you are using Multi Metering Mode because camera is metering all of the image. Which exposure metering mode do you use? are you constantly changing modes as you go?
Thanks) I just use multi-metering from the whole sensor and often change zebras from 95 to 75 to expose the skin correctly
Oleg, the luts in this video link are named differently than what are shown in your video. Alister_V-Look_-2p00 (Download) vs Alister_V-Look_V3_-2p00 (This video). It is possible that Alister has moved or changed what you linked, can you provide your luts used from your computer in this demonstration as a fresh download link? It would be best to link a zip file of what you used from your computer, as we don't know the status of these new luts (updated or modified) since posting. I would like to do testing on my footage. Thank you.
I'd be happy to supply you my email, or write you directly.
Hey! The luts are easily searchable on Alister’s website though
@@NOlimitsON Those files names on alisters website also do not match what is presented in this video, I have checked. He might have modified or changed it.
Thank you so much. Can you elaborate on why slog2 works better for 8 bit? Using an a7c and not sure which picture profile will allow me the most flexibility in post
Hey)) Welcome) 8 bit is very limiting in terms of colours - only 16 million vs 1 billion on the 10 bit. So the less saturated the picture profile and the flatter the profile (S-log3 is much flatter, than S-log2), the more you need to push the colours and exposure in post - so you'll change colours more and you can have some banding in gradients of colours and some blocks of colour, because there is just not enough colour info, especially with heavy grades. So my advice is to use Slog2 on 8 bit (still exposing at +1.7 - +2 stops), and Slog3 on 10-bit cameras.
@@NOlimitsON I switched to the FX3/ninja v and circled back to this video. You saved me so much time
@@HiddenOaksMedia Nice to hear! Thank you!
Do you shoot in ProResRAW sometimes?
Rarely, but I have an in-depth video about it on my channel)
Should I use my exposure compensation wheel to +1.0-2.0 for slog3 in order to easily be overexposing? Or is that not a good recommended method for exposing in slog3??
I wouldn’t recommend using it often - the exposure metering can be misleading and you can over or under expose a lot. Better use zebras as I show in the video, my friend)
So for SLOG3 on a7siii for example if aperture is lowest (2.8 on my 12-24gm lens), shutter is 60 (30fps), and iso is 640 (recommended for a7siii), and the meter is showing 0 or negative number, which of the 3 above to I put higher to increase light and get to overexposure +1.7-2? I don’t want to touch aperture, so should I up the iso? Not shutter speed? Please help!
@@41vids hey) I increase ISO up to 3200 if I need to brighten up the picture, and if it’s still not bright enough I skip to second native iso - 12800
NO limits ON thank you so much it works just tested that :)! do you ever experience color banding in the floors/walls when using slog3? For some reason I am getting perfect exposure now, but with 4K 30fps XAVC S 10bit 4:2:2 I am getting some color banding in the walls/floors …. Any idea how I can fix this while recording?
@@41vids hey) you can have some banding in extreme colorgrades or after exporting the file in low bitrate for instance)) you can check my video on ProRes RAW (there actually 2), there I show the difference between 8 bit, 10 bit and 12 bit - and you can clearly see where the banding appears
Hey do you know if there are LUTs for Premiere Pro as well? (I have the Sony a7rV and I m struggling to get the s log3 color cradet)😢😢😢😢
Hey) the LUTs can be used in any editing software like Premiere Pro, DaVinci, FCP C, Edius, etc.
Wht profile i use for a6400?
Slog2 - I have a video about Slog2 on 8-bit cameras like a6400, check it out on my channel ☺️
@@NOlimitsON thanks 😊
Hey thanks for this explanation, what is the native ISO when you shoot Proress Raw with ninja 5?
hey)) Basically it's the same as in S-log3 - 640 and 12800
Which software
Final Cut Pro X
How do you get the +2EV with only using 12800 iso on the low light shot? 🤔 must be using f1.8 lens i suppose?
I didn’t say I use only 12800 - sometimes I even use 104000 iso. And a fast lens helps too)
do I have to expose MM +2 in the A7III using the Slog 2? and can I use the luts with Slog 2?
Yes, you can use the LUTs, there some for S-Log2 as well. Yes the exposing to the right is working in a7III and S-Log2 as well, be be careful and use zebras at 90-95 to protect your highlights. I have a video A7s3, A73, Z-Cam E2, where we compare S-log3 and PP off and the amount of noise on different exposures, you can check that video out as well to see the results of exposing to the right.
For run and gun situations, do you use false color on the monitor?
Yeah, but I more trust zebras))
@@NOlimitsON thanks, that helps me leave behind my monitor (when i want to travel light)
Do you change your zebras when you are exposing for skin color?
I love the cinematic footage, you explain very well! How can the A7Siii files be edited on your pc? Does it work fluently without creating proxies?
Hey! Thanx! Well... in All-I codec it works ok, the XAVC-S 25p is also doing good, but if you wanna edit 50p or 100p 4K - I make proxies) But for most of the time I record in ProRes LT onto my Atomos Ninja V)))
@@NOlimitsON is prores LT the easiest to edit?
@@Ariel_emerald sure))
@@NOlimitsON Great video. But if you record in ProRes RAW your gyro or active stabilisation work on Sony A7s III?
@@robertk4444 no, unfortunately with raw you don’t get gyro data, I have 2 videos about ProRes raw on a7s3 - you can check them out on the channel 😉
Do I need a ND filter? Also are you using the exposure dial at all? I typically expose to +1.3-1.7 on the meter. I also noticed you use using FCPX, do you ever use the built in LUTs for SLOG 3?
Hey) No, I don't use built-in luts, because they tend to overexpose my image, I use Alister Chapman's. I don't use the exposure dial (only when shooting concerts, where the lighting changes a lot, but I have to shoot in 1 long take), I set the exposure manually almost all the time and expose at +2 using zebras or false colour.
What is your opinion on the ISO160 provided by Sony for s-log3 in a7siii? Is it exploitable? Can we use it and when?
It is usable, but you'll sacrifice dynamic range, so better use ND-filters when possible and keep the ISO at 640
i have a smallhd focus and shoot slog3 on7siii. which or what are the differences with you "Small HD' Alister luts? many thanks! great video
Hey) I have a separate review and comparison of Atomos Ninja V and SmallHD Focus 5 if you are interested) But I didn't really get your question about differences)) Can you make it a little more clear?)
@@NOlimitsON oh sorry man, you have downable luts for the SmallHd and i was wondering which one i would use for sLog3 for my Smallhd focus. thanks
@@NewYorkerPEACE Yeah, now I got you)) I esu Alister Chapman venice luts for Slog3 at -2 EV. The link is in the description and they are free))
@@NOlimitsON ok thanks mna
can we shoot 60fps in SLOG3,i saw some people recommend not to.What’s your opinion?
Of course we can))
Can somebody tell me what exactly are Stops and EV and how to recognise them on the screen just by viewing ?