THANK YOU for making your videos!!! You demonstrate extreme knowledge and a genuine concern and interest in the subject matter. Being a mechanic you would think I wouldn't be "afraid" to just work on my car myself, but not doing much with the car has made me unfamiliar with what's involved. You demonstrate just how simple it can be with the proper knowledge, tools, and patience giving me the confidence to do it myself.
Absolutely the best Y/T video on this subject, bar none! There's a lot of half-assed 'mechanics' posting videos on this subject! You've saved me a LOT of trouble, so very glad I found this one!
Great video! I'm about to attempt mine. I'm not sure if it's the same issue, but my clunking sound happens at low speed while driving straight, on not so smooth roads.
@@Travellization Man, I replaced just about everything: CV axles, wheel hubs, upper, lower, rear, front control arms, bushings, struts, stabilizer, tie rods, engine mounts, you name it. While all those things did give me a great new and tight suspension, the noise did not go away (entirely). I think all that stuff did help. But, the final (next) thing was the rack and pinion. Instead, I decided to just trade in at that point for a new car. I figured I was paying the same amount of money per month on maintenance but all my own time and labor. I bought a 2017 Fusion Hybrid. The car is great. I recommend doing that. But, if you want to go down the rabbit hole, try starting with the rack and pinion. P.S. My issue was definitely not the pinging/spring pop he describes in this video. It was a clunk at low speeds, and not necessarily while the wheels were turning. Probably a combination of the CV axle and the rack and pinion. Good luck!
Hey Mac. Great videos. It's not only nice of you to post them, but really cool that you take the time to read the comments and actually respond. Thank you! I just replaced a blown strut in an '07 Escape. When I took it apart I had a cracked top bearing (gray plastic disc). I replaced the whole mount with a KYB. I wanted to go Fomoco but couldn't get one on the spot. The new mount kit came with a rubberized cup/spacer, giving it a sloppy fit. Now the top end clicks and ticks from that bearing binding up when I cut the wheel. I Did the job three times. New complete KYB mount kit with rubber cup, Old ford mount with new kyb disc bearing omitting KYB rubber cup. The third way was just re-using the old cracked bearing and old Ford mount plate. Using the old, worn, rusty parts was the only way it's quiet. What gives? is aftermarket really that crappy? BTW, I made sure to mark positions on the top plate, even lining up the old impressions in the rubber spring cushions.
kewrock I have seen it many times where we install complete struts and they are back only weeks later sometimes less so yes it is very common especially kyb it seems.
Thanks so much for this, it worked like a charm! Removing both lower fork bolts(*both sides of the car) made it even easier to get the fork off the bottom of the strut. I would have surely removed the stabilizer links and that would have made for a very unhappy afternoon. Thanks again!
Be careful with having background music.. unless it isn't copyrighted. Lol youtube is all about throwing around the strikes these days. Thanks for the information and how-to. Got my car back on the road!
Thanks for a great video- replacing front struts on a 2010 Fusion hybrid- the Motorcraft loaded struts have an extra bolt on top with an E-torx head. The original struts do not have this bolt, just the 3 studs. There is a hole in the frame where the extra bolt sits but it is covered by the top plate- not deep enough to fit. The bolt seems to lock the upper bearing to the spring mount. I assume I remove this e-torx bolt for my car? These are the listed Ford OEM parts (ASTL-22, ASTL-23). Thanks for any guidance!
I have a 2010 Flex Ecoboost: I hear a loud BANG! sometimes on front passenger side when I go over a decent-sized bump- I’ve replaced both control arms, end links, sway bar bushings. On regular roads it’s as if there is no problem, but these moments feel like something catastrophic occurred. Could this be a failed strut? Strut mount, like this?
Excellent video. I installed Ford Performance struts/shocks and BMR SP763 lowering springs on my 15 Mustang GT myself. At end turn range I get pops and creeks. Especially slow parking lot speeds and turning over unlevel surfaces. It is coming from the driver side only. The car has 33,000 miles. I'm going to check to see if the bearing assembly is turning. Could I have misaligned the strut bearing assembly?
Thanks for this video. My daughter's away at college... just got her an '09 Fusion early Oct...now w/ 117k miles. Got alignment in November due to slight pull to the left. It has less expensive Hankooks from previous owner, and the fronts are right at needing replacement (low tread), but the rears have plenty of tread but there's some cupping on their inboard edges (not real noisy...I notice but daughter doesn't). On these cars, is it a no-brainer it's time to replace the rear shocks before the tire noise gets worse, or could it be just the tires not balancing well? I do my own suspension work. What about the front struts? Should I go ahead & replace them, too? KYB currently has a $40 rebate available if buy all 4 at the same time. Before I saw the rebate, my plan was to replace the rear struts and the 2 front tires, then get the remaining tread life out of the rear tires but I'll have them dismounted and swap sides to hopefully quiet them. Any advice is appreciated (btw, in Alabama, roads r decent and no salt).
Thank you for this great technical tutorial. To your knowledge, is there a way to add positive chamber to these 06 Milian, Fusion, Lincoln vehicles? Thanks.
Excellent video. Thanks for doing this. I may pick up a set of spring compressors next. Just bought a rear-brake piston depress kit. Are the rears as easy to do as the fronts? Are the Motorcraft struts a good replacement, or do you recommend another brand? Back when I was into mustangs (had a 2003 Premium GT) Tokiko blues or Bilsteins were recommended. Thank you!
The rear brakes are just as easy as the front except for the special tool for the pistons. Motorcraft struts are quite good but bilsteins are really good too.
Great video, this will help me with my wife's Milan, it growls when it turns, I am guessing the bearings are out. I doctored them by spraying lithium down into the top but it no longer helps, lol. However I will be using loaded struts, so even easier.
For an '09 Fusion, would you go with KYB or Motorcraft for the rear struts? The KYB are $12 each less expensive. My son's '07 Mazda 6 uses the same rear struts, and when I replaced them, KYBs are what came off it from the factory. I replaced them with Sachs, but now I can't seem to find those in-stock anywhere.
Ok so when I did my strut on my 07 Escalade the top strut had that same bearing it was rusted to pieces ..the new strut assembly did not come with one ..I can buy a bearing online my question would be ok to just remove the upper strut stem nut ,while it is on my truck for few minutes while I slip in the bearing then re tourque to spec. Remeber all I’m trying to do is put in the new bearing not remove the whole upper strut mount I have done that already any help would be appreciated great video in depth .
Thanks so much for the video- bought the "quick struts" and was an easy change thanks to you!! Replaced struts and rear shocks in a half day, but still have a "squeak" on the front driver side...thinking a ball joint issue. 2009 Ford Fusion with 130,000 miles. Any videos to help with that?
The last time I changed one of those I was on tour so I only have a quick tip video on them. What I can tell you is the lower ball joint at the knuckle presses into a sleeve and it will be stuck very tight. Its best to remove the lower arm and sleeve together and separate them on the bench. Also those sleeves are different sizes for the front and rear lower ball joint so don't mix them up outside they look the same but inside the taper is different.
Hi,great video. I would like your opinion on this. The MONROE 172261 Quick-Strut is listed on some sites as to fit only the 3.0 V6 while some other sites list both the 3.0 V6 and the 2.3L I4. Like you said in another comment maybe the coil spring strength is the only difference. The weight difference from what have found is only 184lbs. The V6 weighing 335lbs. and the I4 weighing 3175lbs. The struts themselves(MONROE 72261 OESpectrum Strut) have the same model number listed for both engine sizes. FCS 1335543L and FCS 1335543R is the only other brand that list the 2.3L I4 quick mounts for the same price. So my question is: Wouldn't the Monroes work fine if it maybe has a slightly higher coil spring rating? Also,what is your opinion on the FCS brand? Engineered in Michigan but made in China.
Do you bother putting the car on the alignment rack after struts on these cars. Looks like nothing really changes, is the camber adjustable like the old Tauruses and Mustangs on top with breaking the plates off and moving them? Sucks they still use that pinch bolt design style, I always heat them up after previously breaking many on the older Tauruses in the rear. Its nice to see the entire front suspension doesn't have to be disassembled like the older Tauruses.
I have had my struts and strut bearings replaced with OEM parts. I had the shop compress the springs for me and swap out components and keep my factory springs. I noticed while installing my assemblies back into the vehicle on the driver side the hole on top of the strut bearing plate does not match the hole on the body like you suggested due to the bearing plate installed on my spring. I have noticed a sproing noise but its very faint coming the driver side. Do I need to compress the spring and place the alignment hole correctly? If it is not done what will be the outcome. Thanks
Hi, what is the number part of de strut bearing? I have a Fusion 2008 V6, Replace all lower and upper control arm and tie rods, after 6 months, a noise appears for left side. The left upper control arm is Dorman, the rest of the control arm are Motorcraft and the tie rods inner and external are Moog. The noise maybe come from the Doorman control arm? After 10000 miles? Thanks a lot Franklin
Springs scare the crap out of me, ever since I saw the window regulator spring from a 77 Chrysler Newport coupe suddenly unwind. I was glad no body parts were in the way.
Bought a brand new whole strut assembly for an older Taurus and they are noisy. I sprayed the mounts down with silicon spray and it helped a lot. The suicide sticks scare me. Hope they aren't the $12 HF specials! The ones I rent seem beefier and have a locking pin. These seem to flex under tension. In a class I took I saw someone tightening them up and they moved toward each other and make the spring bow out. Scary. Whoever works with them should be extremely cautious.
alb12345672 The spring compressors you talk of are beffier but more bulky and not useful for most situations we have those too. These do not bend they are meant to flex in the upper and lower ears to allow them to hook better at all angles.
I'm on my 3rd set of quick struts from monroe. Only the right front clunky over light bumps. So I put the old strut assembly back on and knocking goes away. sigh.
So that part you took off at 5:19 is called the damper right? I had that fall off my 2010 fusion, people are telling me I need to replace the hole control arm? I dont knlw if that's true, also can that falling off have something to do with clunking and squeaking noises? Thanks!
That nut on top of the strut at 7:26 that you said "not to touch" in the middle of three other nuts moves around in my car when i turn the wheel and at times it scrapes against the metal part of the mount of the car. It does not look normal and i get a lag when i turn on rights or change lanes on the freeway. I even was able to unscrew it with my finger... please i would like some advice on what to do. thanks
Hey man I really like your videos its very helpful to me personally although, I have a 07 Escape XLT that's not driving it like it used to in terms of hard acceleration. I was thinking its probably going into limp mode. Especially driving at high speeds it would not rev up like it used to. To make it simple it feels sluggish and not tourqy enough, unlike before. now driving it, I noticed recently the check engine light would sometimes Flash just in battery mode, not one started (cranked). i just replaced the whole right front axle because the tone ring was broken off. Here are some codes that are coming up: C1234 wheel speed RF input signal missing, U2023 malfunction received from external node. so I don't know if it's a bad sensor or bad abs module. I really thought fixing the Broken tone ring would have solved it but it did not. therefore I'm asking you as a Ford mechanic for your input or any best advice, before taking it to the dealer? Thanks!
im getting an annoying squeaking sound coming form the top of my strut. when i push down n the side of the car i can see the rubber inside the top of the strut squeezing and i think thats making the noise. is the rubber meant to be seen to squeeze or is it meant to be solid. annoying thing is i recently replaced my struts but not the top mount and bearings.
I replaced struts and strut mounts on my 06 fusion, all motorcraft and still hear clunking noise. I however, didn't mark anything when replacing them. Could that be the cause?
Hi....really need your assistance. I have a 2009 ford focus, there are noises coming from under the foot both on driver and passenger side any time it goes on a bump no matter how little.This noise is a clunking noise. Below are all what have changed on the car: The inner tie rod Sway bar link shock absorber Complete control arm anti roll bar busing. Kindly advice on what the problem is
I've been to 2 Ford dealers who can't figure this out. Can anyone recommend a dealer and mechanic in Chicago area that can diagnose and fix this issue? Please.
Hey, haven't been on FFC in a while. I don't have speakers on this computer so I can't hear your audio. Is this a clunk sound as you rotate the steering wheel? I have one presenting on my 2010 that is usually when I first start driving, such as pulling out of my driveway or backing out of a parking stall. Thanks again for the helpful videos. Made a big difference when I replaced my filler neck (only to discover the problem was the purge solenoid...)
+FordTechMakuloco ok, finally watched it on my phone. mine typically only does once pop per trip, not on every bump. I'll check my dashcam, see if there's an example. car's not driveable at the moment, I've got the dash torn apart adding an arduino.
I have a noise in the rear sounds like strut ,when I say everything I mean the lot even took sway bar off still no luck,it started after getting new tyres,can if not adjusted properly the rear control arms witch have a eccentric bolts cause this knock if not adjusted properly, replaced,struts springs top mounts rubber seats,sway bar bushings end links knuckel control arms eccentric bolts,trailing arms and checked and torqued all things to specs,or could car have been alined not being under laiden,manual say to have car on the ground so suspensions have pressure, only on uneven ground this noise like strut is loose,going over speed humps its OK,I've checked all no luck do you have any idea
Are Monroe quick struts any good? My fusion has 175k with oem suspension parts. Debating on the quick struts but wondering if their strut mounts are worth a darn along with the steel quality in the springs it comes with.. In your experience do you suggest quick struts?
I can hear it creaking really bad when it’s warm out. I want to know how much this costs. I told myself when I got my 2010 I was going to try and let a mechanic fix it. Too modern for me So cost?
I replaced my strut bearings on my bmw because they were all kinds of ripped but the popping is still there. Nothing is moving but sounds like the spring flexing when i turn left and right or hard into a turn flexing the car please help my local bmw show replaced the power rack 2,900$ and that wasn't it now im still stuck with the popping and pissed at them.
as I said this noise only started after getting new tyres and a alignment. its sounds like sway bar link or strut top mount but I've replaced all and double checked every thing,I've researched hyundais and other cars but most noises are sway bar bushings end links,need help
I have an 07 fusion. Can a bad strut leak causing what I can only describe as black grease. The grease is getting flung at the edge of the wheel area under the door. The sound it makes is like the sound you make when joking about people having sex in a old bed (sorry. couldn't think of anything else). I hear the sound at slow speeds and the sound gets worse after I fill up with gas. I tried the bounce test I always hear about but it seems fine. Upper and lower control arms have been replaced. Could it be something in the strut or assembly? I'm at a loss.
Well that's my first...never done a mkz strut bearing but a lot of montegos/Taurus... Did I spy a wds? what the hellll,,,don't tell you guys still use it?
i added a slim peice of teflon sheet 3 mm thick to add some way so it can turn on its axes better.. then painted the area. to slow any rust that might form later on
I have a 08 fusion. has a noise when you tap the gas, release the clutch. and sometimes when you shift. it doesn't affect driveability, has a few people including me stumped.
I can't find it by itself anywhere, but it comes in this kit KYB SM5540 Kit or other similar kits on rockauto.com and Amazon, except the Monroe one doesn't seem to include it. I hereby declare you my friend, so here's my rockauto friends & family 5%-off discount code 5770162034534958.
Bro, I want front RH and LH shock absorber with coil spring for my Ford fusion 2009 1.4diesel tdci If it is available please send to me I will pay the amount Because its production was Stop
That yellow piece is a culprit in most cases. It is a stupid design and worst, there is no cap on the top of a strut under the hood leaving the jounce bumper vulnerable to damage. Do not ever use wd-40 spray at the tensioner nut on the top since wd-40 will flow down to bump stopper dissolving all the grease inside it.
This may be the stupidest question ever, but if the upper and lower control arm ball joints are the swivel points, why is the strut expected to swivel? Why would the strut have bearings in it at all? I'm having squeaks and groans and creaks when hitting bumps (constant ee-er, ee-er, ee-er) and when turning the wheel but wondered if it was ball joints and came across this.
Excellent question. The struts in these cars don't turn since they are not attached to the steering knuckle. They're more like a coil-over shock. Seems like there's no need for a bearing on top of them.
Why screw around the aftermarket offers complete replacement components. Have a strut bearing fail have a broken spring have a leaking strut? these failures come one after the other. Kick it in the ass replace the assembly you get a new bearing shock and spring done.
THANK YOU for making your videos!!! You demonstrate extreme knowledge and a genuine concern and interest in the subject matter.
Being a mechanic you would think I wouldn't be "afraid" to just work on my car myself, but not doing much with the car has made me unfamiliar with what's involved. You demonstrate just how simple it can be with the proper knowledge, tools, and patience giving me the confidence to do it myself.
Thanks for always showing the least amount of steps for part removal. Your videos are appreciated.
I looked all over the internet and this was the only place I could find those torque specs. Thanks a million!
Nice glad I could help
Pedro san juan pls makuloco answer Pedro because I'm having the same problem pls
Absolutely the best Y/T video on this subject, bar none! There's a lot of half-assed 'mechanics' posting videos on this subject! You've saved me a LOT of trouble, so very glad I found this one!
I been following this gentleman for a couple years he's a car mechanic genius 🏆..
This explains the clunky pop I have on the passenger side of my 2011 Fusion!
Great videos Brian. I appreciate all you do for the community!! Keep it up
Great video! I'm about to attempt mine. I'm not sure if it's the same issue, but my clunking sound happens at low speed while driving straight, on not so smooth roads.
I am having the same issue with my 2014 fusion energi. were you able to figure out what was causing that clunk sound ?
@@Travellization Man, I replaced just about everything: CV axles, wheel hubs, upper, lower, rear, front control arms, bushings, struts, stabilizer, tie rods, engine mounts, you name it. While all those things did give me a great new and tight suspension, the noise did not go away (entirely). I think all that stuff did help. But, the final (next) thing was the rack and pinion. Instead, I decided to just trade in at that point for a new car. I figured I was paying the same amount of money per month on maintenance but all my own time and labor. I bought a 2017 Fusion Hybrid. The car is great. I recommend doing that. But, if you want to go down the rabbit hole, try starting with the rack and pinion. P.S. My issue was definitely not the pinging/spring pop he describes in this video. It was a clunk at low speeds, and not necessarily while the wheels were turning. Probably a combination of the CV axle and the rack and pinion. Good luck!
Hey Mac. Great videos. It's not only nice of you to post them, but really cool that you take the time to read the comments and actually respond. Thank you!
I just replaced a blown strut in an '07 Escape. When I took it apart I had a cracked top bearing (gray plastic disc). I replaced the whole mount with a KYB. I wanted to go Fomoco but couldn't get one on the spot. The new mount kit came with a rubberized cup/spacer, giving it a sloppy fit. Now the top end clicks and ticks from that bearing binding up when I cut the wheel. I Did the job three times. New complete KYB mount kit with rubber cup, Old ford mount with new kyb disc bearing omitting KYB rubber cup. The third way was just re-using the old cracked bearing and old Ford mount plate. Using the old, worn, rusty parts was the only way it's quiet. What gives? is aftermarket really that crappy? BTW, I made sure to mark positions on the top plate, even lining up the old impressions in the rubber spring cushions.
kewrock I have seen it many times where we install complete struts and they are back only weeks later sometimes less so yes it is very common especially kyb it seems.
As a Mopar fan, I love that he has Mopar sprays in the background at 8:19...
+Matthew Taus Yep that's all we are given as we are a dual dealer so its in stock.
Thanks so much for this, it worked like a charm! Removing both lower fork bolts(*both sides of the car) made it even easier to get the fork off the bottom of the strut. I would have surely removed the stabilizer links and that would have made for a very unhappy afternoon. Thanks again!
Also, I'm loving the Christian music in the background!
Be careful with having background music.. unless it isn't copyrighted. Lol youtube is all about throwing around the strikes these days. Thanks for the information and how-to. Got my car back on the road!
Great video...really liked the music in the background!
As opposed to the horrid RAP crap!
Thanks for a great video- replacing front struts on a 2010 Fusion hybrid- the Motorcraft loaded struts have an extra bolt on top with an E-torx head. The original struts do not have this bolt, just the 3 studs. There is a hole in the frame where the extra bolt sits but it is covered by the top plate- not deep enough to fit. The bolt seems to lock the upper bearing to the spring mount. I assume I remove this e-torx bolt for my car? These are the listed Ford OEM parts (ASTL-22, ASTL-23). Thanks for any guidance!
Hi. KYB is OEM good replacement? I think replace rear shock on Fusion 2008 with KYB shock absorber.
I have a 2010 Flex Ecoboost: I hear a loud BANG! sometimes on front passenger side when I go over a decent-sized bump- I’ve replaced both control arms, end links, sway bar bushings. On regular roads it’s as if there is no problem, but these moments feel like something catastrophic occurred. Could this be a failed strut? Strut mount, like this?
Thanks!! your video gives me the confidence to work on mine.
Excellent video. I installed Ford Performance struts/shocks and BMR SP763 lowering springs on my 15 Mustang GT myself. At end turn range I get pops and creeks. Especially slow parking lot speeds and turning over unlevel surfaces. It is coming from the driver side only. The car has 33,000 miles. I'm going to check to see if the bearing assembly is turning. Could I have misaligned the strut bearing assembly?
Best video I've seen for struts/springs....ever..Thnx Bubb!!
Thanks for this video. My daughter's away at college... just got her an '09 Fusion early Oct...now w/ 117k miles. Got alignment in November due to slight pull to the left. It has less expensive Hankooks from previous owner, and the fronts are right at needing replacement (low tread), but the rears have plenty of tread but there's some cupping on their inboard edges (not real noisy...I notice but daughter doesn't). On these cars, is it a no-brainer it's time to replace the rear shocks before the tire noise gets worse, or could it be just the tires not balancing well? I do my own suspension work. What about the front struts? Should I go ahead & replace them, too? KYB currently has a $40 rebate available if buy all 4 at the same time. Before I saw the rebate, my plan was to replace the rear struts and the 2 front tires, then get the remaining tread life out of the rear tires but I'll have them dismounted and swap sides to hopefully quiet them. Any advice is appreciated (btw, in Alabama, roads r decent and no salt).
Thank you for this great technical tutorial. To your knowledge, is there a way to add positive chamber to these 06 Milian, Fusion, Lincoln vehicles? Thanks.
Excellent video. Thanks for doing this. I may pick up a set of spring compressors next. Just bought a rear-brake piston depress kit. Are the rears as easy to do as the fronts? Are the Motorcraft struts a good replacement, or do you recommend another brand? Back when I was into mustangs (had a 2003 Premium GT) Tokiko blues or Bilsteins were recommended. Thank you!
The rear brakes are just as easy as the front except for the special tool for the pistons. Motorcraft struts are quite good but bilsteins are really good too.
Great video, this will help me with my wife's Milan, it growls when it turns, I am guessing the bearings are out. I doctored them by spraying lithium down into the top but it no longer helps, lol. However I will be using loaded struts, so even easier.
Great video! One question please.
Was the wheels alignment necessary after this job?
For an '09 Fusion, would you go with KYB or Motorcraft for the rear struts? The KYB are $12 each less expensive. My son's '07 Mazda 6 uses the same rear struts, and when I replaced them, KYBs are what came off it from the factory. I replaced them with Sachs, but now I can't seem to find those in-stock anywhere.
for the most part also applies to a 1st Gen Mazda6
I like your background music!
Ok so when I did my strut on my 07 Escalade the top strut had that same bearing it was rusted to pieces ..the new strut assembly did not come with one ..I can buy a bearing online my question would be ok to just remove the upper strut stem nut ,while it is on my truck for few minutes while I slip in the bearing then re tourque to spec. Remeber all I’m trying to do is put in the new bearing not remove the whole upper strut mount I have done that already any help would be appreciated great video in depth .
Thanks so much for the video- bought the "quick struts" and was an easy change thanks to you!! Replaced struts and rear shocks in a half day, but still have a "squeak" on the front driver side...thinking a ball joint issue. 2009 Ford Fusion with 130,000 miles. Any videos to help with that?
The last time I changed one of those I was on tour so I only have a quick tip video on them. What I can tell you is the lower ball joint at the knuckle presses into a sleeve and it will be stuck very tight. Its best to remove the lower arm and sleeve together and separate them on the bench. Also those sleeves are different sizes for the front and rear lower ball joint so don't mix them up outside they look the same but inside the taper is different.
Thanks, again, for the help!
Hi,great video. I would like your opinion on this.
The MONROE 172261 Quick-Strut is listed on some sites as to fit only the 3.0 V6 while some other sites list both the 3.0 V6 and the 2.3L I4. Like you said in another comment maybe the coil spring strength is the only difference. The weight difference from what have found is only 184lbs. The V6 weighing 335lbs. and the I4 weighing 3175lbs. The struts themselves(MONROE 72261 OESpectrum Strut) have the same model number listed for both engine sizes.
FCS 1335543L and FCS 1335543R is the only other brand that list the 2.3L I4 quick mounts for the same price.
So my question is: Wouldn't the Monroes work fine if it maybe has a slightly higher coil spring rating?
Also,what is your opinion on the FCS brand? Engineered in Michigan but made in China.
I am more in awe at the rust on that 3 year old car. Mine is 2006, 14 years old now and has no rust anywhere. I live in Wyoming too. We got winter.
Do you bother putting the car on the alignment rack after struts on these cars. Looks like nothing really changes, is the camber adjustable like the old Tauruses and Mustangs on top with breaking the plates off and moving them? Sucks they still use that pinch bolt design style, I always heat them up after previously breaking many on the older Tauruses in the rear. Its nice to see the entire front suspension doesn't have to be disassembled like the older Tauruses.
No this doesn't affect alignment at all.
I have had my struts and strut bearings replaced with OEM parts. I had the shop compress the springs for me and swap out components and keep my factory springs. I noticed while installing my assemblies back into the vehicle on the driver side the hole on top of the strut bearing plate does not match the hole on the body like you suggested due to the bearing plate installed on my spring. I have noticed a sproing noise but its very faint coming the driver side. Do I need to compress the spring and place the alignment hole correctly? If it is not done what will be the outcome. Thanks
Is there a good reason to do all this when loaded assemblies are pretty affordable?
Hi, what is the number part of de strut bearing? I have a Fusion 2008 V6, Replace all lower and upper control arm and tie rods, after 6 months, a noise appears for left side. The left upper control arm is Dorman, the rest of the control arm are Motorcraft and the tie rods inner and external are Moog. The noise maybe come from the Doorman control arm? After 10000 miles?
Thanks a lot
Franklin
Could you tell me if he also had it bind sometime when actually turning so he felt like it getting stuck sometimes when driving?
What about using a full strut assembly instead just changing the top bearing?? Do the back struts on the Fusion ever need changed??? Thanks.
Great video .....Would a 2014 Ford Taurus be similar?
great video with lighting and postioning....thamnks again....bob
Springs scare the crap out of me, ever since I saw the window regulator spring from a 77 Chrysler Newport coupe suddenly unwind. I was glad no body parts were in the way.
What’s your opinion of the build quality of Ford vehicles vs other makes?
Bought a brand new whole strut assembly for an older Taurus and they are noisy. I sprayed the mounts down with silicon spray and it helped a lot. The suicide sticks scare me. Hope they aren't the $12 HF specials! The ones I rent seem beefier and have a locking pin. These seem to flex under tension. In a class I took I saw someone tightening them up and they moved toward each other and make the spring bow out. Scary. Whoever works with them should be extremely cautious.
alb12345672 The spring compressors you talk of are beffier but more bulky and not useful for most situations we have those too. These do not bend they are meant to flex in the upper and lower ears to allow them to hook better at all angles.
I'm on my 3rd set of quick struts from monroe. Only the right front clunky over light bumps. So I put the old strut assembly back on and knocking goes away. sigh.
@@BigEightiesNewWave it was the hydraulic engine mount.
@@BigEightiesNewWave I used to be in the parts business and had nothing but complaints about kyb.
So that part you took off at 5:19 is called the damper right? I had that fall off my 2010 fusion, people are telling me I need to replace the hole control arm? I dont knlw if that's true, also can that falling off have something to do with clunking and squeaking noises? Thanks!
That nut on top of the strut at 7:26 that you said "not to touch" in the middle of three other nuts moves around in my car when i turn the wheel and at times it scrapes against the metal part of the mount of the car. It does not look normal and i get a lag when i turn on rights or change lanes on the freeway. I even was able to unscrew it with my finger... please i would like some advice on what to do. thanks
Hey man I really like your videos its very helpful to me personally although, I have a 07 Escape XLT that's not driving it like it used to in terms of hard acceleration. I was thinking its probably going into limp mode. Especially driving at high speeds it would not rev up like it used to. To make it simple it feels sluggish and not tourqy enough, unlike before. now driving it, I noticed recently the check engine light would sometimes Flash just in battery mode, not one started (cranked). i just replaced the whole right front axle because the tone ring was broken off. Here are some codes that are coming up: C1234 wheel speed RF input signal missing, U2023 malfunction received from external node. so I don't know if it's a bad sensor or bad abs module. I really thought fixing the Broken tone ring would have solved it but it did not. therefore I'm asking you as a Ford mechanic for your input or any best advice, before taking it to the dealer? Thanks!
im getting an annoying squeaking sound coming form the top of my strut. when i push down n the side of the car i can see the rubber inside the top of the strut squeezing and i think thats making the noise. is the rubber meant to be seen to squeeze or is it meant to be solid. annoying thing is i recently replaced my struts but not the top mount and bearings.
What happens if you don't line the holes to on the plug but still manage to get the strut assembly installed will it clunk or create additional issues
I replaced struts and strut mounts on my 06 fusion, all motorcraft and still hear clunking noise. I however, didn't mark anything when replacing them. Could that be the cause?
Looks like one of the easier struts to replace. No alignment required
Hi....really need your assistance. I have a 2009 ford focus, there are noises coming from under the foot both on driver and passenger side any time it goes on a bump no matter how little.This noise is a clunking noise. Below are all what have changed on the car:
The inner tie rod
Sway bar link
shock absorber
Complete control arm
anti roll bar busing.
Kindly advice on what the problem is
kosoko abayomi Have you greased the dust boots on the struts with silicone grease? They can make this same noise and it is common on this year focus.
I've been to 2 Ford dealers who can't figure this out. Can anyone recommend a dealer and mechanic in Chicago area that can diagnose and fix this issue? Please.
Ah ha! that was the problem. Thanks for the vid.
Hey, haven't been on FFC in a while. I don't have speakers on this computer so I can't hear your audio.
Is this a clunk sound as you rotate the steering wheel? I have one presenting on my 2010 that is usually when I first start driving, such as pulling out of my driveway or backing out of a parking stall.
Thanks again for the helpful videos. Made a big difference when I replaced my filler neck (only to discover the problem was the purge solenoid...)
+Ahanix yes it can pop when turning if it is bound up enough like this one was.
+FordTechMakuloco ok, finally watched it on my phone. mine typically only does once pop per trip, not on every bump. I'll check my dashcam, see if there's an example. car's not driveable at the moment, I've got the dash torn apart adding an arduino.
I have a noise in the rear sounds like strut ,when I say everything I mean the lot even took sway bar off still no luck,it started after getting new tyres,can if not adjusted properly the rear control arms witch have a eccentric bolts cause this knock if not adjusted properly, replaced,struts springs top mounts rubber seats,sway bar bushings end links knuckel control arms eccentric bolts,trailing arms and checked and torqued all things to specs,or could car have been alined not being under laiden,manual say to have car on the ground so suspensions have pressure, only on uneven ground this noise like strut is loose,going over speed humps its OK,I've checked all no luck do you have any idea
Whats that rubber piece called that goes on the lower strut manafold
Are Monroe quick struts any good? My fusion has 175k with oem suspension parts. Debating on the quick struts but wondering if their strut mounts are worth a darn along with the steel quality in the springs it comes with.. In your experience do you suggest quick struts?
Drew Young I do suggest quick struts but have never heard of anything good about monroes.
@@FordTechMakuloco hello sir my car also have creaking sound when i turned my wheel
I can hear it creaking really bad when it’s warm out. I want to know how much this costs. I told myself when I got my 2010 I was going to try and let a mechanic fix it. Too modern for me
So cost?
Is an alignment required after replacing the strut?
It is best yes.
I replaced my strut bearings on my bmw because they were all kinds of ripped but the popping is still there. Nothing is moving but sounds like the spring flexing when i turn left and right or hard into a turn flexing the car please help my local bmw show replaced the power rack 2,900$ and that wasn't it now im still stuck with the popping and pissed at them.
as I said this noise only started after getting new tyres and a alignment. its sounds like sway bar link or strut top mount but I've replaced all and double checked every thing,I've researched hyundais and other cars but most noises are sway bar bushings end links,need help
I have an 07 fusion. Can a bad strut leak causing what I can only describe as black grease. The grease is getting flung at the edge of the wheel area under the door.
The sound it makes is like the sound you make when joking about people having sex in a old bed (sorry. couldn't think of anything else). I hear the sound at slow speeds and the sound gets worse after I fill up with gas. I tried the bounce test I always hear about but it seems fine.
Upper and lower control arms have been replaced. Could it be something in the strut or assembly? I'm at a loss.
Well that's my first...never done a mkz strut bearing but a lot of montegos/Taurus...
Did I spy a wds? what the hellll,,,don't tell you guys still use it?
Yes we do for many things, especially the other Ford guy he likes it allot for certain things.
Nice job.
Great video thank you. Good, clear explanation and lighting. This was very helpful, you rock. \o/
Hit a speed bump hard and start hearing a cluking noise knew it wasn’t the axle because I just replaced them looks like my passenger shock is blown 😂
Great video. Thanks!
i added a slim peice of teflon sheet 3 mm thick to add some way so it can turn on its axes better.. then painted the area. to slow any rust that might form later on
Noise of strut bearing is loud? What part replace?
This is why I buy loaded struts f that Brian lol
This helped a lot. Thanks!
I have a 08 fusion. has a noise when you tap the gas, release the clutch. and sometimes when you shift. it doesn't affect driveability, has a few people including me stumped.
Engine mounts really late but that's what it was
I can not find the circle bearing that you're talking about anywhere... can anyone help me find them? post a link maybe?
I can't find it by itself anywhere, but it comes in this kit KYB SM5540 Kit or other similar kits on rockauto.com and Amazon, except the Monroe one doesn't seem to include it. I hereby declare you my friend, so here's my rockauto friends & family 5%-off discount code 5770162034534958.
You really should invest in a strut tamer spring compressor ... way quicker and safer.
Follow me on facebook I just received one. The dealer was way too cheap to purchase one.
That's really good news. I have one and am really happy that I will keep all my valuable fingers. lol
FordTechMakuloco wow atleast my dealer cares enough to buy one
Bro, I want front RH and LH shock absorber with coil spring for my Ford fusion 2009 1.4diesel tdci
If it is available please send to me
I will pay the amount
Because its production was Stop
ur Ford dealer looks just as old as the caddy dealer I work for
Well done.
Thanks! Very helpful.
This is all because of bad engineering. Look at the rust where the top of the strut bolts on. Water drains down and pools onto the bearing.
will that cause uneveñ tire wear
can you change just the bearing?
Yes
Forgot is add it is a 2007 Fusion SE with the 2.3L I4 engine.
Great video thanks for the infor
Awesome video.....!!!!
Awesome, thanks!!
The bong! Noise. Broken springs all day.
That yellow piece is a culprit in most cases. It is a stupid design and worst, there is no cap on the top of a strut under the hood leaving the jounce bumper vulnerable to damage. Do not ever use wd-40 spray at the tensioner nut on the top since wd-40 will flow down to bump stopper dissolving all the grease inside it.
This may be the stupidest question ever, but if the upper and lower control arm ball joints are the swivel points, why is the strut expected to swivel? Why would the strut have bearings in it at all? I'm having squeaks and groans and creaks when hitting bumps (constant ee-er, ee-er, ee-er) and when turning the wheel but wondered if it was ball joints and came across this.
Excellent question. The struts in these cars don't turn since they are not attached to the steering knuckle. They're more like a coil-over shock. Seems like there's no need for a bearing on top of them.
2011 ford fusion FWD 40k by the way.
I have question brother?
Is this expensive to fix?
The part is cheap the labor is what makes it expensive.
"bwong" good video
what is up with ford and suspension problems, seriously, all the time
These struts can't turn. The bottom of them is a fork bolted to the lower control arm.
Correct but the upper does turn and twist on turns due to the unique lower control arm design as shown in the video.
Nice Christian music :)
Why screw around the aftermarket offers complete replacement components. Have a strut bearing fail have a broken spring have a leaking strut? these failures come one after the other. Kick it in the ass replace the assembly you get a new bearing shock and spring done.
HMMM I never greased that yellow boot
my car is a Hyundai Accent 2000 hatch
Ron kentwell,stein let's give this guy a round of applause
Lots of GREASE for reassembly!