6:23 ball joint 7:45 tie rod end 8:21 stabilizer link 9:00 lower control arm 9:23 power steering mount 9:32 CV joint 9:50 upper control arm 10:18 spring / strut (absorber) 12:35 strut rods bushing 13:30 loose bolts, screws 14:08 upper strut mount 14:25 engine mount 16:10 exhaust mount thank me later ;)
I have never met a mechanic as thorough and detailed minded with the patience and ability to explain in (an almost poetic way 😉) so people can and will understand and want to listen..! Excellent job my friend...!!! Golf clap!👏🏁😂😉
I have serviced my own car since I was eighteen. I'm still doing servicing now I'm sixty five. Different cars though. This man knows what he is talking about.
You are a special breed, my man! The only person I know that would spend that much time & effort tracking down & diagnosing an issue is....me. Seriously, it’s been 20 years since I’ve been able to find a mechanic willing to spend more than 15-20 mins “inspecting” my car. This last one (at a dealership) didn’t even test drive my car and sent me an “inspection report” with a bunch of green check marks (meaning: everything is a-okay 100% 👌). They installed unbalanced wheels on my car last month, just before an 8 hour road trip at interstate speeds. My car’s been steering itself to the left ever since & started making that rusty hinge squeaky bed sound on acceleration & braking. Looks like I’m spending my weekend fixing it myself. But, back to you....this video has a ton of great information & the kind of tips/tricks that usually have to be learned the hard way. Thank you for taking the time to share & for caring so much about what you do. That seems to be getting increasingly more difficult to find.
For a quick test, if you lower the driver's window, then open the driver's door fully, you can grab the top area of the door firmly and push it down, using the door as a "lever" to move the car up and down on the suspension, and if there are suspension noises, you will probably hear them immediately (thanks to the Car Wizard Channel for this tip). Engine mount noises can be heard and/or felt if you put the car in gear, and while pushing the brake pedal firmly, accelerate slightly then let off, so the car doesn't move, and you can feel a bump when you let off on the gas, when the engine falls back on the broken mount. If the hood is open, you or your buddy will be able to see one side of the engine rise and fall as you do this. Because engines only rotate in one direction, the torque of the engine pushes down on one side engine mount and pulls up on the other side engine mount. Some vehicles have several engine mounts in different locations, so the effect of the torque on the mounts can vary.
Your a great teacher. I have a college degree in Automotive Technology AAS. Your easy to listen to and not an egomaniac. I haven't worked in a professional garage in 30 years. But trouble shooting never changes. Keep up the great work.
I'm so happy you found the problem. So many times garages just start trial and error replacements at owner expense, and the problem STILL isn't fixed. I've also had shops find the problem, or make a problem, send it back until the owner is so frustrated with being nickle and dimed, and then the shop offers to 'take the car off your hands' for a song and then resells it. The corner shop did that to a friend and almost to me until I figured it out. One of the first clues was his two mechanics would shoot each other an embarrassed and uncomfortable look like: "He's doing it to another customer". I'd talk to them, but they wouldn't meet my eyes and couldn't give me straight answers about the repairs.
I never take the time to leave a comment on any videos I watch. I have watched several of your trouble shooting videos over the years and you are very knowledgable and take the time to explain things very well. Thank you and keep up the good work!
Great video, Eric! I'm a pretty experienced amateur mechanic (been working on cars for 50 years) and have done a lot of work on suspension, brakes, steering and the like, but I still learned a LOT from this video! The orange dust trick, for example - very cool! Also, it was densely packed with information. Nothing worse than spending time watching people turn a wrench over and over until they remove an oil pan - the time spent watching this video was all useful! Thanks!
hi Eric, thank you for another great video. one thing i have found that works well for diagnosing movement was to lift the vehicle by the frame till the tire is about 2 inches off the ground and the place a small block of wood (i use a foot long piece of 2x4) up next to the tire and then get a long pry bar and lever the tire up and down (simulating the bumps while driving). i then look and listen for failed ball joints etc, i try it while steering is all the way in each direction and also straight. i just thought i would mention this as i find it easier than trying to pry right on the ball joint to check, and you can look at multiple components at the same time. hope someone might find this useful. As for my problem i had checked all the usual suspects and couldnt find the problem but after your video i looked again and it turned out to be the power steering rack mount cracked on one side. I never thought to look there. I learned something new today, thanks again.
You are a smart man - I never thought of that. It may well lead me to the answer behind a really annoying crackling/popping sound on right turns.... I might just get a long 2x4 and see if I can recreate the noise...
SUPER HELPFUL! I had to use a new mechanic to fix a noise. He said it was my CV axle.I was confused because I just got the right one changed out. He said it was the left one that needs it now. I hear the noise on the right though. EricTheCarGuy confirmed that if the noise is on the left, it's the right one that needs changed. If the noise is on the right, it's the left one that needs changed. Phew! Thank goodness I now don't feel like I'm getting ripped off. THANK YOU for being so thorough!! Yay!
OK. I've been watching Eric's videos for awhile. But it just struck me that this guy is a mechanical freaking genius. Suspension is very complicated to wrap your head around.
God video-and I like his honesty " I spent days looking for a noise" Haven't we all buddy. Many years ago I was working in haulage and one guy was having trouble with a Volvo F86 articulated semi - an intermittent click from the streering. The unit was nearly brand new, about 6 months old or so. Ended up with everybody in the place trying to find it, including the manager. There were 6 of us in the pit once, and after changing the steering box it seemed ok, but on one turn it clicked again. One guy in a rage hit the spring hanger bracket with his hammer- and he noise disappeared! It was a dry shackle pin transmitting the noise and vibration through the chassis and up to the steering wheel. Only thing Eric forgot was to say that noises (and vibration)travel through metal a lot and can easily appear to be from a different source.
I drive an 04 X5 and this is the most expensive car I’ve ever owned (as In constant repairs) so I think this video is great for trying to find and fix issues yourself. Ive been taken too many times by repair men (being a woman) so am trying to learn some things on my own. Keep making great videos! Thanks!
Great job Eric. Its good that you've shown a problem that you thought was a typical suspension issue, but that turned out to be an engine mount. An inexperienced person may not find this as they are just focused underneath the car. Also, thank you for going over all the potential areas that may be a problem and discussing it instead of just finding the problem and ending it there.
Thank you Eric! Diagnostics are the most important part of any repair. The repair itself is secondary. Poor diagnostics leads to multiple repairs. The definition of a 'backyard mechanic' is one who replaces parts until the problem is solved.
The engine mounts for the 3G TLs are notorious for failing prematurely. I replaced all mounts when I bought my 04 TL at 150,000 miles. That side mount is approx $50 OEM, but the front & rear mounts are a bit pricey at around $130 or so each. This TL does not seem well taken care of, judging from the interior dust, worn out serp belt and that side mount.
Eric, thanks for this very detailed, very much common sense presentation. you are a very honest and patient technician which in our industry is hard to find ( based on many customer complaints). keep up the great work and equally great videos! Al from Detroit Mi.
There's an absolute plethora of valuable advice here. And it all comes from a guy who really knows what he's talking about. Best of all - we get all that advice for free! Gotta love ETCG!!!
Thank you very much for taking so much time and efforts making this video. Very informative. Very enlightening. For a newbie like me, it is very educational. Now I have some basic idea of what to look for if I hear car noises. You are a great teacher. Thanks again.
Very comprehensive and informative video - even for a novice like me who knows very little about cars. I know lots about computers but little about cars - seems interesting though You covered every noise there is and every part it could be, explained very well. I'll bookmark this video for future wheel noise diagnosis. I was trying to find out what my car noise problem was so I could estimate how much it was gonna cost me. Thanks to your video I'm fairly sure it's a cv joint. When I turn right the grinding noise is loud but goes away when I turn left, so it's the left cv joint. Thanks alot! I wish you were local so you could fix my ride. You seem like a cool and smart dude!
Moral of this video, noises could be coming from your seat's tracks and mechanics would be like "yeah, that's definitely a bad control arm bushing" I've had that happen two times to me. Which is exactly why I went completely DIY style got myself a whole bunch of tools. Your videos help a lot. Much obliged and appreciated.
I wish people who are having suspension issues is recommended this video first. I saw many videos but this video helped me find my issue, which was the ball joint squeaking.
My 2002 Honda Civic started to rattle recently as I was driving, and the brakes made a grinding noise. I had installed them in the front and the back, and they worked fine. As it turned out, a front brake caliper mounting bolt fell out, and all the noise was caused by the loose caliper vibrating. I put some threadlocker on a new bolt, and the noise is gone. My point is that the problem may be a simple and inexpensive one. As Eric shows, you need to be patient and do a lot of checking in different places to find out what's wrong.
Taking notes and holding a meeting to show this to my tire techs. Beautiful demonstration with old and new school knowledge. Great job everyone should watch this
Great vid! It explained things that I'd never have thought of, and for damned sure a lot of things that a run of the mill mechanic wouldn't think of either to be honest. I've run across my share of those over the years to know! Very thorough, easy to understand in laymans terms, and how much more info could you possibly want for exactly what the vid is titled..."...Suspension Noises 101", NOT your final exam to be ASE certified! I'd give this 5 thumbs up but alas, I can only give one. Thanks for all the info and for taking the time to teach the ones that want to learn when you really didn't have to, and by some remarks they don't appreciate it anyway but I'd say most of us do. Thanks again and keep on keepin' on!
Great tutorial! This car, trouble shooting tutorial is definitely in my top 5. If you have the time, please consider filming a tutorial on the removal and replacement of the tie rod boot, inner and outer tie rod for the 1997 Honda CRV series; i.e. where to locate floor jack and jack stands under the vehicle, how to remove rings on the boot, etc. If you already have a video that demonstrates this work, let me know. Cheers m8
Love this guy and anyone who shares their knowledge and wisdom with the world with the intentions of helping and empowering others is literally mf Legend in my opinion.
After installing new ball joints and tie rods, I was hearing a thumping noise. I went underneath shook everything as hard as I could including coil and strut assembly. I tested the balls joints by trying to separate the arm and ball joints with a crowbar (as shown @ 7:20). Since my ball joints were bolted on, it turned out some of the bolts on the passenger side were not sufficiently tight. Tightened all and applied blue thread locker and noise gone.
@@Benni711 Shared burden is lighter and joy greater. We all are unique and contribute in a unique ways to the whole picture of life. Why would any one would like to see hot, skinny with boobs chick in garage? Accept guys who work in garage. I understand just kidding having fun...
Eric. Got a 2007 Honda Accord with almost the exact same "noise" issue. It's the motor mount. But, one of the 17mm bolts won't move (the front one), I tried everything to get it out. Nothing works. Impact wrenches, impact sockets, breaker bars, 3in1 oil, torch, hammer, a "bolt remover" socket, alls it did was round over the bolt head. No room to get a power tool in there to cut off the bolt head. I'm stuck on this. Only thing left to do is drill a hole & use an "easy out". Got a clue? I'm all out of ideas.
This video was very helpful. I have a 08 TL. And (like always) there is something I have to fix. I used to have a noise coming and it was my sway bar links. Had lot of mechanics looks at it and they couldn’t find the issue. Took the shot and went to the dealer at they charged me $140 diagnostic fee but did find out the sway bar link is broken both side. Noise was gone and it was a fair price plus it was oem. Now I have a noise where I’m driving and let’s say a wall or border is on the side of the highway I hear a weird noise like a clicking. I have new tires and my tires are balanced. I have replaced motor mounts and transmission mount. My steering wheel shakes around 60-90 mph. I have no clue what it is. I will do a check on what you said on the other things but it’s driving me nuts.
I just changed my front motor mount and it rides great I still here a little bit of sound on the right side I will check it out soon but the video was very informative THANKS..
This is a great video Eric because it explains the noises by actually listening to the noise that you recorded. I have a suggestion that would help others diagnose any problem whether it's a suspension noise or not. In your case, you found it was an engine mount so it wasn't really a suspension issue. So my suggestion is that as a general practice, before you actually fix ANY noise, that you first take the vehicle out for a drive and record any of the sounds you're hearing. That way, AFTER you've fixed the issue and possibly made a video out of that repair, it would be very helpful to the viewer/listener if you could put in the clip about what the issue sounded like before you fixed it. The reason being is that there are several videos out there that basically tell you how to fix the problem once the problem is identified. The problem is that many viewers will hear a noise, but they have no clue as to what's causing it. So if you played the audio of the noise during your repair of the issue (because you prerecorded the noise/s) then I think it would help viewers hear what the problem actually sounded like. I have a 2006 Ford Five Hundred that is making some different sounds at high speeds and as might be expected, they are not the noises you recorded this video. Right now, I don't know what the noise is for sure but I think it's a CV joint. But as a viewer, all I can do is go by the sound I heard....see where I'm going? So if the video showed the sound/s you can hear for a CV joint I think it would help viewers and make your videos that much better. Keep up the good work!
2003 Pontiac Grand am with a 3.4L V6 This past week i completely replaced 2 Wheel hub bearings/ 2 rotors/ 1 set of front brake pads/ 2 calipers / 2 Lower Ball Joints / 2 Outer Tie Rod ends, and 1 CV Shaft and still have squealing and a rubbing sound when braking, the booths on the old CV Shaft are hard and the New shaft is soft rubber, could that make the weird sounds. the machanic i think he took me for a ride cost me almost $ 2500. Eric i wish you were here in Canada.
What would your suspicion be for a squeaky mattress like noise from the passenger front suspension? This is assuming the shocks are in perfect order btw.
Thanks for the video. This actually helped me diagnose my bad passenger side engine mount on my 2006 Accord EX. I was having the exact same noises. It was driving me crazy because I had already rebuilt the suspension. Last thing I did was put in new HONDA strut assemblies and the noise seem to get worse, so for a while I thought I got a be strut mount on one of the assemblies. After watching this video.. it all made sense. Ordered new OEM engine mount and noise it gone!! Thanks Eric!
This video is very helpful. I have a terrible noise and it is actually the motor mount as he mentioned. Thank you for the help. What kind of camera do you use?
I found a new one! The other day i took a sharp u turn, suddenly i hear a skeaky sound in the driver side. I check everything, long story short, the squeaky sound was made by the bottom of the driver seat, the SOB sounded like a squeaky ball joint!
+Kamran Khan I removed those out of my 04 TL and threw them in the trash bin (except for the one that goes on top of the intake plenum). Those plastic don't do much; not much sealing against dust, and making it difficult to check all fluid levels.
I think I have a bad engine mount on my Celica gt..... I just changed the suspension putting adjustable coilovers on the car and still is making the same sound it made before I changed suspension.... Now this video is going to have me check both right and left engine mount... Thank Eric the car guy.
?EricTheCarGuy. I have a 2006 Hyundai Tucson. My mechanic says he doesn't have the tools to drop the sub frame so he can replace the sway bar bushings. I was gonna remove the bottom bolt & just pry the bushing holder open & tap out the old bushing, then tap the new ones in. Will that work? You're about the smartest guy I know on RUclips... Thanks, Dan
Daniel Jenn I tryed to replace lower control arm bushing on a 98 camry LE 4cyl nope I couldn't get them back in because they need to be pressed it anyways I brought it to a machine shop when they tryed to press them in ( the guy even made a holder out of steel pipe he did all that he could have done imo) but they just blew out the rubber bushings they where moog btw. Anyhow I ended up returning those bushing to advanced auto parts thank God they did except the return surprisingly and then had to buy both complete lower control arms only about $100 each ouch!
We put the ball joints in. Some parts stores loan you the tools needed. I had bought a kit to do ball joints. The sway link was bad but the sway bar busing on the Tucson's are tough to do. I'm going to buy a set of long open/boxed end wrenches & heat the one up with a torch so it can be bent at about 30 degrees so we can get the upper sway bar bushing holder bolt out. Once they're both out, I know how to put a smaller size grade 8 bolt in from the other way. But the control arms, sometimes they're easier just to buy new & bolt them back in. I'm working on 3 vehicles, so I'm on a budget so to speak, so any time I can get away with just getting the part needed, I'll take the time to do the work.
I have a Mark VI Jetta GLI with 5000 miles on it that started making a sound like waving around a plastic bag whenever I go over small bumps in the road at around 40 mph. Checked the tires, checked for anything loose, and I can't find anything. Anyone have any ideas?
Hello Eric, I've got a 2000 Expedition 5.4l AWD w/ 125,000 miles and on flat/downhill driving where a lot of acceleration is not needed, it drives fine.. But, when going up hill or you just decide to give it some gas to go a little faster, there is an awful clunking/banging noise that seems to come from the driver front tire area. I recently put a used tire on that end, so I have moved it to the rear and it did not remedy the noise at all. My friends told me it was probably the bearing going bad in it, so I had the bearing hub assembly replaced. It seemed to drive quiet for aprox 50-100 miles and now it is back to making that same noise. I took it to my mechanic today, who by the way use to be the lead mechanic at our local ford dealership. He decided after 20 years of working at that dealership to open his own shop. Every time I've taken any of my vehicles up to him, he knew exactly what it was. Today was a different story as he had no idea either. His idea was to go under the expedition and take something out to switch it from AWD to 2WD and see if the noise goes away. Me personally, I was thinking it to be something around the axel or something another like that, but I dont have near the experience as him. Today when driving it back to my warehouse, I noticed that when you go to give it gas like going up a hill or to speed up, it pulls to the right quite significantly. Then when you let off the gas enough for the noise to go away, it drives straight as an arrow. There are no check engine lights on and I'm dumbfounded. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mike
Thank you very much for all the info and showing all the possible defective part/parts. I just replaced an outer shaft on the front left thinking that would get rid of the problem . Of course it didnt. There is a sort of grinding noise coming from the left/center .it gets more intense and louder as you increase the speed. I was told I have a rack and pinion leak....however i have not seen any oil whatsoever....no leaks period. ??? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thank you again for the great video !!!!!!!!
So glad you're on the job. Need some advice. The front end of my Toyota w/133k makes a thud (not a metal on metal) when the tire rotates. the faster the rotation the faster the sound, I checked the sway bar, links and others and no play. What could it be...? It stated after the snow chain came off and was hitting around .
I have a 2011 Chrysler 200, and the front driver strut didnt make much noise, but the bolt in the center of the top actually popped up and put a dent in my hood. My question is would I be able to change it out? or would it be dangerous with that bolt like it is? Also thanks for all of your videos as they have helped me so much in just diagnosing issues without paying a ton of fees.
Thank you. You solved my mystery problem. Same exact noise in my 08 Honda accord, just got it cheap but could not figure out thud from right front wheel area. Went trough all suspension and could not find anything until I come across your video. Come to find out it's very common problem with the v6 hondas. Thanks again
When I was in the Honda scene many years ago, this man saved me THOUSANDS of dollars in shop charges. It took me longer than a shop but I got many many projects completed purely because of Eric's videos
Diagnosis is everything ..it all starts with a diagnosis . Once you know what's wrong , then the " fix " is easy . Eric, thanks for a great vid,,,thanks for taking your time in educating and sharing ; and you do this from goodness of your heart . For a newbie like me, vid was very educational . Even if you're not going to do the work yourself , self-education equips one to ask better questions when at the mechanic shop and protects you from having your "ignorance " exploited by a shifty mechanic. If I could would take my car to your shop . , thanks again and all success in your life
Excellent video. I've been able to determine what I think the culprit is on my 2008 TL now. After some great information from videos like these. Creaking noise front Driver side wheel. I believe it's a bad Ball joint. It happens when turning a lot. Grinding metal noise. I'll also inspect my Tie Rod's and I've also got to fix a broken sway bar stabilizer link in the rear!
Great video. I came across this after researching online about thumping noise. I had 4 tires replaced on my 2012 Toyota Highlander in April. Since then I had to have a total alignment 3 times. The tires were replaced again due to road noise, and then I had thumping noise. It was determined that one tire was deformed and it was replaced. Now I have slight rattling coming from the rear as if something is loose. Also, there is this "rusty' sound as mentioned earlier in this video coming from the front left when I turn the steering wheel to the left. I had absolutely none of these problems prior to changing the tires. 3 different shops had my car for full days and they cannot tell me anything. All of this in not even two months. Any help or advice is appreciated.
Thank you Eric! This video helped me find a knocking sound that's been getting worse (and driving me crazy!) for the past year. I checked all the things like ball joints, tie rod ends, control arms, stabilizer links, and struts. Even replaced some of them. Never thought to check the engine mounts. Had a bad lower driver side mount concealed by a splash shield on my 2001 Honda CR-V. It was utterly destroyed. Replaced both the left and right one and my car sounds like it did when I bought it new 17 years ago. I've been a subscriber since I found your channel several months back, and this is one example why. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and tips. It's saved me allot of pain.
My SUV has a loud single clunk sound (front right) when turning. Turn left *pop*, then you won’t hear it again until you turn right. Then after that, you won’t hear it again until you turn left. Whatever is causing this has also affected the alignment. It pulls right, and you have to push left to correct. I’m thinking tie rod, but idk.. Thanks to this video, it has inspired me to dig into this project.
Old video but helped me solve my problem!!!! I replaced both axles and a wheel bearing trying to fix a clunking that sounded like the axles or transmission. was about to replace both uppers and tie rods. Turned out a huge chunk of the cat broke apart from the inside and was making the very strange clunking noise. Did not sound like the exhaust rattling at all! DONT FORGET THE EXHAUST!!! 98 accord 4 cylinder
You look like an honest guy to me, im from Las Vegas and cannot find an honest mechanic, I got 2 cars a 2008 sr5 Toyota runner, and an Oldsmobile 1997 , what do you suggest for a my Runner if I'm running, when I step on the brakes the wheel is vibrating, tx
Great job! I'm troubleshooting an annoying clunk noise in my little 2013 Scion iQ and found a TSB on it but no fix for it. (TSB says "may exhibit a rattle or clunk type coming from the front strut mount area.) Per your video, I cannot recreate the noise unless I'm driving with the windows down over rough roads and bumps hitting the right side seem to cause the clunk more than the left.
Thanks Eric for the advice. I have a Toyota Corolla with 100k miles. It has a low speed rattle over bumps. I will jack up the front and have a look. A previous owner had it to a main dealer and they suspected steering intermediate shaft worn.
Has any work been done lately, especially in the same area ? By an amateur ? Then OPQRST Onset, Provoke, Quality, Radiation, Site, Timing. Onset - When did it start ? What was happening then ? How did it start ? Provoke - What makes it better or worse ? Quality - What is the sound ? Clunk, chirp, squeal, scrape ? Radiate - Is the sound traveling ? (A shaky steering is maybe NOT the steering wheel) Site - What is the actual location ? Timing - When does it happen ? Bumps, high speed, turning, stopping ... Then inspection, percussion like the hammer, instrumentation like a stethoscope, other issues that might effect the current problem ?
i wish there were mechanic's like this in Barnsley England we get told we are hearing things and turn the radio up amazing work by the way im a subscriber from now on
FOR VOLVO OWNERS: On volvo cars and suv's made from around 1999-2009 like models such as xc90, xc70, v40, v60.. if you are hearing loud CLUNKING noise in the morning or whenever you turn the front wheel, or drive over a rough pavement or over small bumps and the clunking noise sounds like someone is hitting the insides of your wheel area with a hammer, then it's your upper front strut mounts and front strut bearings. Ebay sells TONS of these kits because it was obviously a weak, failure-prone part. They cost like $60 for cheap-o chinese made FCP Euro kits, comes in 4 pieces (2-bubber mounts, 2 galvanized steel bearing units). Takes like an hour to do both if you got access to an air or electric impact gun, some odd 18mm, 21mm, and 16mm sockets, and a spring compressor (you can rent them from autozone too), and a floor jack.
Very cool. I didn't think the video was too long because there were so many useful concepts for a guy like me who is really technical and into troubleshooting. This was my first ETCG video and I subscribed!
6:23 ball joint
7:45 tie rod end
8:21 stabilizer link
9:00 lower control arm
9:23 power steering mount
9:32 CV joint
9:50 upper control arm
10:18 spring / strut (absorber)
12:35 strut rods bushing
13:30 loose bolts, screws
14:08 upper strut mount
14:25 engine mount
16:10 exhaust mount
thank me later ;)
lol
Not all heroes wear capes
Love it.
Lower control arm lower control arms on a Ford F-150 96
5
this guy is giving all he got just to teach others. very informative. thank you
yes, you are right, this type of people is very rare to find.
But he's high, right?
He is awesome!!!
My car only makes a noise when I’m wearing white nikes and eating a chicken quesadilla with sour cream and when I have someone in the backseat
@@TrailVapor does it truly matter? "But" what, if we may?
I have never met a mechanic as thorough and detailed minded with the patience and ability to explain in (an almost poetic way 😉) so people can and will understand and want to listen..! Excellent job my friend...!!! Golf clap!👏🏁😂😉
I have serviced my own car since I was eighteen. I'm still doing servicing now I'm sixty five. Different cars though. This man knows what he is talking about.
I love a lady who fixes her own cars! Self sufficient, that's what it's all about. 💖
I'm here trying to troubleshoot an issue myself.
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@@ginaberrie2608😂😂😂😊😅🎉 😅😊99😮😂 🎉I think 😅43hj😊🎉🎉o😅r
You are a special breed, my man! The only person I know that would spend that much time & effort tracking down & diagnosing an issue is....me. Seriously, it’s been 20 years since I’ve been able to find a mechanic willing to spend more than 15-20 mins “inspecting” my car. This last one (at a dealership) didn’t even test drive my car and sent me an “inspection report” with a bunch of green check marks (meaning: everything is a-okay 100% 👌). They installed unbalanced wheels on my car last month, just before an 8 hour road trip at interstate speeds. My car’s been steering itself to the left ever since & started making that rusty hinge squeaky bed sound on acceleration & braking. Looks like I’m spending my weekend fixing it myself.
But, back to you....this video has a ton of great information & the kind of tips/tricks that usually have to be learned the hard way. Thank you for taking the time to share & for caring so much about what you do. That seems to be getting increasingly more difficult to find.
For a quick test, if you lower the driver's window, then open the driver's door fully, you can grab the top area of the door firmly and push it down, using the door as a "lever" to move the car up and down on the suspension, and if there are suspension noises, you will probably hear them immediately (thanks to the Car Wizard Channel for this tip). Engine mount noises can be heard and/or felt if you put the car in gear, and while pushing the brake pedal firmly, accelerate slightly then let off, so the car doesn't move, and you can feel a bump when you let off on the gas, when the engine falls back on the broken mount. If the hood is open, you or your buddy will be able to see one side of the engine rise and fall as you do this. Because engines only rotate in one direction, the torque of the engine pushes down on one side engine mount and pulls up on the other side engine mount. Some vehicles have several engine mounts in different locations, so the effect of the torque on the mounts can vary.
Your a great teacher. I have a college degree in Automotive Technology AAS. Your easy to listen to and not an egomaniac. I haven't worked in a professional garage in 30 years. But trouble shooting never changes. Keep up the great work.
Just finding this video in 2020 - this gives me hope that I'll find the mystery noise that mechanics haven't been able to locate. Just subscribed!
I'm so happy you found the problem. So many times garages just start trial and error replacements at owner expense, and the problem STILL isn't fixed. I've also had shops find the problem, or make a problem, send it back until the owner is so frustrated with being nickle and dimed, and then the shop offers to 'take the car off your hands' for a song and then resells it. The corner shop did that to a friend and almost to me until I figured it out.
One of the first clues was his two mechanics would shoot each other an embarrassed and uncomfortable look like: "He's doing it to another customer". I'd talk to them, but they wouldn't meet my eyes and couldn't give me straight answers about the repairs.
Direct to the point with no aggravating background music. Thanks Eric.
I never take the time to leave a comment on any videos I watch. I have watched several of your trouble shooting videos over the years and you are very knowledgable and take the time to explain things very well. Thank you and keep up the good work!
Great video, Eric! I'm a pretty experienced amateur mechanic (been working on cars for 50 years) and have done a lot of work on suspension, brakes, steering and the like, but I still learned a LOT from this video! The orange dust trick, for example - very cool! Also, it was densely packed with information. Nothing worse than spending time watching people turn a wrench over and over until they remove an oil pan - the time spent watching this video was all useful! Thanks!
hi Eric, thank you for another great video. one thing i have found that works well for diagnosing movement was to lift the vehicle by the frame till the tire is about 2 inches off the ground and the place a small block of wood (i use a foot long piece of 2x4) up next to the tire and then get a long pry bar and lever the tire up and down (simulating the bumps while driving). i then look and listen for failed ball joints etc, i try it while steering is all the way in each direction and also straight. i just thought i would mention this as i find it easier than trying to pry right on the ball joint to check, and you can look at multiple components at the same time. hope someone might find this useful. As for my problem i had checked all the usual suspects and couldnt find the problem but after your video i looked again and it turned out to be the power steering rack mount cracked on one side. I never thought to look there. I learned something new today, thanks again.
I like that method Karlo, thanks for mentioning it.
4 years later👍
5...
You are a smart man - I never thought of that. It may well lead me to the answer behind a really annoying crackling/popping sound on right turns.... I might just get a long 2x4 and see if I can recreate the noise...
@@pingpong9656 did u find out what it was. The way you explained your problem, it sounds like mine
SUPER HELPFUL! I had to use a new mechanic to fix a noise. He said it was my CV axle.I was confused because I just got the right one changed out. He said it was the left one that needs it now. I hear the noise on the right though. EricTheCarGuy confirmed that if the noise is on the left, it's the right one that needs changed. If the noise is on the right, it's the left one that needs changed. Phew! Thank goodness I now don't feel like I'm getting ripped off. THANK YOU for being so thorough!! Yay!
OK. I've been watching Eric's videos for awhile. But it just struck me that this guy is a mechanical freaking genius. Suspension is very complicated to wrap your head around.
God video-and I like his honesty " I spent days looking for a noise"
Haven't we all buddy.
Many years ago I was working in haulage and one guy was having trouble with a Volvo F86 articulated semi - an intermittent click from the streering.
The unit was nearly brand new, about 6 months old or so.
Ended up with everybody in the place trying to find it, including the manager.
There were 6 of us in the pit once, and after changing the steering box it seemed ok, but on one turn it clicked again.
One guy in a rage hit the spring hanger bracket with his hammer- and he noise disappeared!
It was a dry shackle pin transmitting the noise and vibration through the chassis and up to the steering wheel.
Only thing Eric forgot was to say that noises (and vibration)travel through metal a lot and can easily appear to be from a different source.
I drive an 04 X5 and this is the most expensive car I’ve ever owned (as In constant repairs) so I think this video is great for trying to find and fix issues yourself. Ive been taken too many times by repair men (being a woman) so am trying to learn some things on my own. Keep making great videos! Thanks!
Great job Eric. Its good that you've shown a problem that you thought was a typical suspension issue, but that turned out to be an engine mount. An inexperienced person may not find this as they are just focused underneath the car. Also, thank you for going over all the potential areas that may be a problem and discussing it instead of just finding the problem and ending it there.
Thank you Eric! Diagnostics are the most important part of any repair. The repair itself is secondary. Poor diagnostics leads to multiple repairs. The definition of a 'backyard mechanic' is one who replaces parts until the problem is solved.
Amen
Every one of your videos I watched has been very informative and educational. This one is no exception. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
The engine mounts for the 3G TLs are notorious for failing prematurely. I replaced all mounts when I bought my 04 TL at 150,000 miles. That side mount is approx $50 OEM, but the front & rear mounts are a bit pricey at around $130 or so each.
This TL does not seem well taken care of, judging from the interior dust, worn out serp belt and that side mount.
Man this post is valuable even years later.
2021 and im learning how to check suspension this was extremely useful.
Eric, thanks for this very detailed, very much common sense presentation. you are a very honest and patient technician which in our industry is hard to find ( based on many customer complaints). keep up the great work and equally great videos! Al from Detroit Mi.
There's an absolute plethora of valuable advice here. And it all comes from a guy who really knows what he's talking about. Best of all - we get all that advice for free! Gotta love ETCG!!!
How do you even think to mention literally every possible scenario that may cause a phantom noise on our vehicles? Respect to you etcg1.💯
Thank you very much for taking so much time and efforts making this video. Very informative. Very enlightening. For a newbie like me, it is very educational. Now I have some basic idea of what to look for if I hear car noises. You are a great teacher. Thanks again.
Very comprehensive and informative video - even for a novice like me who knows very little about cars. I know lots about computers but little about cars - seems interesting though You covered every noise there is and every part it could be, explained very well. I'll bookmark this video for future wheel noise diagnosis. I was trying to find out what my car noise problem was so I could estimate how much it was gonna cost me. Thanks to your video I'm fairly sure it's a cv joint. When I turn right the grinding noise is loud but goes away when I turn left, so it's the left cv joint. Thanks alot! I wish you were local so you could fix my ride. You seem like a cool and smart dude!
Tq bro.
Hey Eric you have done it again, a lot of info on suspension noses you hit so many spots including the Orange dust. A wonderful video thanks.
Moral of this video, noises could be coming from your seat's tracks and mechanics would be like "yeah, that's definitely a bad control arm bushing" I've had that happen two times to me. Which is exactly why I went completely DIY style got myself a whole bunch of tools. Your videos help a lot. Much obliged and appreciated.
I wish people who are having suspension issues is recommended this video first. I saw many videos but this video helped me find my issue, which was the ball joint squeaking.
Thank you for taking the time to research, film and share this information. It is appreciated. Peace Bro!
7:40 As always, excellent tutorial. My favorite part, "If you don't have any movement there, you don't have any movement there."
My 2002 Honda Civic started to rattle recently as I was driving, and the brakes made a grinding noise. I had installed them in the front and the back, and they worked fine.
As it turned out, a front brake caliper mounting bolt fell out, and all the noise was caused by the loose caliper vibrating. I put some threadlocker on a new bolt, and the noise is gone.
My point is that the problem may be a simple and inexpensive one. As Eric shows, you need to be patient and do a lot of checking in different places to find out what's wrong.
Taking notes and holding a meeting to show this to my tire techs. Beautiful demonstration with old and new school knowledge. Great job everyone should watch this
what about strut mount busings/bearings? thanks great job!
Awesome video. Trying to diagnose this issue on my VW Touareg and this was very helpful. Thanks!
dude you are my go to guy for car stuff! you have helped so much thanks!
Great vid! It explained things that I'd never have thought of, and for damned sure a lot of things that a run of the mill mechanic wouldn't think of either to be honest. I've run across my share of those over the years to know! Very thorough, easy to understand in laymans terms, and how much more info could you possibly want for exactly what the vid is titled..."...Suspension Noises 101", NOT your final exam to be ASE certified! I'd give this 5 thumbs up but alas, I can only give one. Thanks for all the info and for taking the time to teach the ones that want to learn when you really didn't have to, and by some remarks they don't appreciate it anyway but I'd say most of us do. Thanks again and keep on keepin' on!
Great tutorial!
This car, trouble shooting tutorial is definitely in my top 5.
If you have the time, please consider filming a tutorial on the removal and replacement of the tie rod boot, inner and outer tie rod for the 1997 Honda CRV series; i.e. where to locate floor jack and jack stands under the vehicle, how to remove rings on the boot, etc. If you already have a video that demonstrates this work, let me know.
Cheers m8
Love this guy and anyone who shares their knowledge and wisdom with the world with the intentions of helping and empowering others is literally mf Legend in my opinion.
This was very helpful, informative and logically laid out. Thank you for taking the time to make this. Stay dirty!
"And if you don't have any movement there? then you don't have any movement there. ." haha very good
I thought I was the only one......Best ism I ever heard.
After installing new ball joints and tie rods, I was hearing a thumping noise. I went underneath shook everything as hard as I could including coil and strut assembly. I tested the balls joints by trying to separate the arm and ball joints with a crowbar (as shown @ 7:20). Since my ball joints were bolted on, it turned out some of the bolts on the passenger side were not sufficiently tight. Tightened all and applied blue thread locker and noise gone.
Correct solution for a lady is to have join relation ship with some one who has a balls to fix your car. You testing wrong balls. ;O)
@@Benni711 Shared burden is lighter and joy greater. We all are unique and contribute in a unique ways to the whole picture of life.
Why would any one would like to see hot, skinny with boobs chick in garage? Accept guys who work in garage.
I understand just kidding having fun...
Eric. Got a 2007 Honda Accord with almost the exact same "noise" issue. It's the motor mount. But, one of the 17mm bolts won't move (the front one), I tried everything to get it out. Nothing works. Impact wrenches, impact sockets, breaker bars, 3in1 oil, torch, hammer, a "bolt remover" socket, alls it did was round over the bolt head. No room to get a power tool in there to cut off the bolt head. I'm stuck on this. Only thing left to do is drill a hole & use an "easy out". Got a clue? I'm all out of ideas.
This video was very helpful. I have a 08 TL. And (like always) there is something I have to fix. I used to have a noise coming and it was my sway bar links. Had lot of mechanics looks at it and they couldn’t find the issue. Took the shot and went to the dealer at they charged me $140 diagnostic fee but did find out the sway bar link is broken both side. Noise was gone and it was a fair price plus it was oem. Now I have a noise where I’m driving and let’s say a wall or border is on the side of the highway I hear a weird noise like a clicking. I have new tires and my tires are balanced. I have replaced motor mounts and transmission mount. My steering wheel shakes around 60-90 mph. I have no clue what it is. I will do a check on what you said on the other things but it’s driving me nuts.
I just changed my front motor mount and it rides great I still here a little bit of sound on the right side I will check it out soon but the video was very informative THANKS..
This guy is a good mechanic.
My cars noises never show their faces if I tell anyone lol
I knew it wasn’t just me I had my mechanic ride with me and not even a squeak I was pissed
Same here too..
😂😂
This is a great video Eric because it explains the noises by actually listening to the noise that you recorded. I have a suggestion that would help others diagnose any problem whether it's a suspension noise or not. In your case, you found it was an engine mount so it wasn't really a suspension issue. So my suggestion is that as a general practice, before you actually fix ANY noise, that you first take the vehicle out for a drive and record any of the sounds you're hearing. That way, AFTER you've fixed the issue and possibly made a video out of that repair, it would be very helpful to the viewer/listener if you could put in the clip about what the issue sounded like before you fixed it. The reason being is that there are several videos out there that basically tell you how to fix the problem once the problem is identified. The problem is that many viewers will hear a noise, but they have no clue as to what's causing it. So if you played the audio of the noise during your repair of the issue (because you prerecorded the noise/s) then I think it would help viewers hear what the problem actually sounded like. I have a 2006 Ford Five Hundred that is making some different sounds at high speeds and as might be expected, they are not the noises you recorded this video. Right now, I don't know what the noise is for sure but I think it's a CV joint. But as a viewer, all I can do is go by the sound I heard....see where I'm going? So if the video showed the sound/s you can hear for a CV joint I think it would help viewers and make your videos that much better. Keep up the good work!
Man. This video alone teaches us how to diagnose all suspension-related problems. Thanks, dude!
I can't understand the dislikes. I thought the guy was pretty thorough.
+Paul Bevillard I agree with you paul, the only way he could have done more, is if he came over to your house and did the actual repair...
+Paul Bevillard Some people just get mad when there's no titties.
+JeredtheShy You guys are hilarious.... And i agree to that, no reason for dislikes.
"We don't need no engine mount"???????? WTF IS IT FOR THEN? Surely it serves some purpose.
THE BRONZEVILLEBOXER He said it as a joke.
2003 Pontiac Grand am with a 3.4L V6
This past week
i completely replaced 2 Wheel hub bearings/ 2 rotors/ 1 set of front brake pads/ 2 calipers / 2 Lower Ball Joints / 2 Outer Tie Rod ends, and 1 CV Shaft and still have squealing and a rubbing sound when braking, the booths on the
old CV Shaft are hard and the New shaft is soft rubber, could that make the weird sounds.
the machanic i think he took me for a ride cost me almost $ 2500.
Eric i wish you were here in Canada.
Try looking up grease/lube points, particularly where the caliper makes contact with the brake pads.
What would your suspicion be for a squeaky mattress like noise from the passenger front suspension? This is assuming the shocks are in perfect order btw.
Alexander Stewart my Nissan sentra 2008 does it in the back.
Thanks for the video. This actually helped me diagnose my bad passenger side engine mount on my 2006 Accord EX. I was having the exact same noises. It was driving me crazy because I had already rebuilt the suspension. Last thing I did was put in new HONDA strut assemblies and the noise seem to get worse, so for a while I thought I got a be strut mount on one of the assemblies. After watching this video.. it all made sense. Ordered new OEM engine mount and noise it gone!! Thanks Eric!
This video is very helpful. I have a terrible noise and it is actually the motor mount as he mentioned. Thank you for the help.
What kind of camera do you use?
I found a new one! The other day i took a sharp u turn, suddenly i hear a skeaky sound in the driver side. I check everything, long story short, the squeaky sound was made by the bottom of the driver seat, the SOB sounded like a squeaky ball joint!
Eric real talk, great personality and all 🤑 you're the best bro!
I hate those plastic covers for engine. It takes good amount of time to remove those covers and work on the engine.
+Kamran Khan
I removed those out of my 04 TL and threw them in the trash bin (except for the one that goes on top of the intake plenum). Those plastic don't do much; not much sealing against dust, and making it difficult to check all fluid levels.
+Kamran Khan Never spent more than a minute or two too remove an engine cover.
+DaTwistedOne1 Depends on what car you have and depends if you are using power tools.
worked on all different make,models, and years. rarely use anything other then a ratchet or screw driver to remove them.
worked on all different make,models, and years. rarely use anything other then a ratchet or screw driver to remove them.
I think I have a bad engine mount on my Celica gt..... I just changed the suspension putting adjustable coilovers on the car and still is making the same sound it made before I changed suspension.... Now this video is going to have me check both right and left engine mount... Thank Eric the car guy.
?EricTheCarGuy. I have a 2006 Hyundai Tucson. My mechanic says he doesn't have the tools to drop the sub frame so he can replace the sway bar bushings. I was gonna remove the bottom bolt & just pry the bushing holder open & tap out the old bushing, then tap the new ones in. Will that work? You're about the smartest guy I know on RUclips... Thanks, Dan
Daniel Jenn I tryed to replace lower control arm bushing on a 98 camry LE 4cyl nope I couldn't get them back in because they need to be pressed it anyways I brought it to a machine shop when they tryed to press them in ( the guy even made a holder out of steel pipe he did all that he could have done imo) but they just blew out the rubber bushings they where moog btw. Anyhow I ended up returning those bushing to advanced auto parts thank God they did except the return surprisingly and then had to buy both complete lower control arms only about $100 each ouch!
We put the ball joints in. Some parts stores loan you the tools needed. I had bought a kit to do ball joints. The sway link was bad but the sway bar busing on the Tucson's are tough to do. I'm going to buy a set of long open/boxed end wrenches & heat the one up with a torch so it can be bent at about 30 degrees so we can get the upper sway bar bushing holder bolt out. Once they're both out, I know how to put a smaller size grade 8 bolt in from the other way. But the control arms, sometimes they're easier just to buy new & bolt them back in. I'm working on 3 vehicles, so I'm on a budget so to speak, so any time I can get away with just getting the part needed, I'll take the time to do the work.
Me: "Please don't be an engine mount...please don't be an engine mount...please don't be an engine mount." Dammit. It was an engine mount.
Shit bro
I have a Mark VI Jetta GLI with 5000 miles on it that started making a sound like waving around a plastic bag whenever I go over small bumps in the road at around 40 mph. Checked the tires, checked for anything loose, and I can't find anything. Anyone have any ideas?
Awesome video.. Keep it up.. God bless you.. Thanks alot mate
Don't they have performance parts that can help stabilize your springs that you can install into the springs?
Hello Eric,
I've got a 2000 Expedition 5.4l AWD w/ 125,000 miles and on flat/downhill driving where a lot of acceleration is not needed, it drives fine.. But, when going up hill or you just decide to give it some gas to go a little faster, there is an awful clunking/banging noise that seems to come from the driver front tire area. I recently put a used tire on that end, so I have moved it to the rear and it did not remedy the noise at all. My friends told me it was probably the bearing going bad in it, so I had the bearing hub assembly replaced. It seemed to drive quiet for aprox 50-100 miles and now it is back to making that same noise. I took it to my mechanic today, who by the way use to be the lead mechanic at our local ford dealership. He decided after 20 years of working at that dealership to open his own shop. Every time I've taken any of my vehicles up to him, he knew exactly what it was. Today was a different story as he had no idea either. His idea was to go under the expedition and take something out to switch it from AWD to 2WD and see if the noise goes away. Me personally, I was thinking it to be something around the axel or something another like that, but I dont have near the experience as him. Today when driving it back to my warehouse, I noticed that when you go to give it gas like going up a hill or to speed up, it pulls to the right quite significantly. Then when you let off the gas enough for the noise to go away, it drives straight as an arrow. There are no check engine lights on and I'm dumbfounded. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
thanks Eric. great Info! God bless you.
"I'm just gonna try something here, as I pull out, and that's getting on it hard."
Is that right Eric??
Hold up let me try something “slams on the gas ⛽️ 💨” lol
Thank you for taking your time to show us! I have a hard time identifying all the suspension parts. Any ideas to learn them all ?
Thank you very much for all the info and showing all the possible defective part/parts.
I just replaced an outer shaft on the front left thinking that would get rid of the problem . Of course it didnt. There is a sort of grinding noise coming from the left/center .it gets more intense and louder as you increase the speed. I was told I have a rack and pinion leak....however i have not seen any oil whatsoever....no leaks period. ??? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thank you again for the great video !!!!!!!!
Eric. I can still hear that noise mate. If seems like the sway bar links bushings are bad.
Cheers mate!! Good tips and really helpful!
I saw the problem at 5:28. The engine was moving on that side.
Will only watch his car videos...he's the best of the best....keep up the good work...
I just got 95% smarter diagnosing abnormal car noises... super informative well worth the time. Thanks Eric for taking your time to do this.
I have a ford fiesta 2011 >> and I always hear a grinding noise on the driving side of the vehicle every time I make a left or right. turn>>
yes it was a bad wheel bearing on the right side>>
yes I second the motion. Wheel bearin.
If you go to your mechanic, and he's hammering your tyre, try not laugh your ass off xD
Great video Eric. Thank you
So glad you're on the job. Need some advice. The front end of my Toyota w/133k makes a thud (not a metal on metal) when the tire rotates. the faster the rotation the faster the sound, I checked the sway bar, links and others and no play. What could it be...? It stated after the snow chain came off and was hitting around .
I have a 2011 Chrysler 200, and the front driver strut didnt make much noise, but the bolt in the center of the top actually popped up and put a dent in my hood. My question is would I be able to change it out? or would it be dangerous with that bolt like it is? Also thanks for all of your videos as they have helped me so much in just diagnosing issues without paying a ton of fees.
"That Detroit lean" hahahaha
Serpentine belt is lookin' a bit shabby too.
Thank you. You solved my mystery problem. Same exact noise in my 08 Honda accord, just got it cheap but could not figure out thud from right front wheel area. Went trough all suspension and could not find anything until I come across your video. Come to find out it's very common problem with the v6 hondas. Thanks again
thanks eric for all the tips, I’ve been working on cars for 50 years and taught me plenty....you are da man
When I was in the Honda scene many years ago, this man saved me THOUSANDS of dollars in shop charges. It took me longer than a shop but I got many many projects completed purely because of Eric's videos
Diagnosis is everything ..it all starts with a diagnosis . Once you know what's wrong , then the " fix " is easy . Eric, thanks for a great vid,,,thanks for taking your time in educating and sharing ; and you do this from goodness of your heart . For a newbie like me, vid was very educational . Even if you're not going to do the work yourself , self-education equips one to ask better questions when at the mechanic shop and protects you from having your "ignorance " exploited by a shifty mechanic. If I could would take my car to your shop . , thanks again and all success in your life
"I'm kinda scarred from it, actually". Classic Eric and worth watching the video!!! So many great points in this video! Well done!!!
Excellent video. I've been able to determine what I think the culprit is on my 2008 TL now. After some great information from videos like these. Creaking noise front Driver side wheel. I believe it's a bad Ball joint. It happens when turning a lot. Grinding metal noise. I'll also inspect my Tie Rod's and I've also got to fix a broken sway bar stabilizer link in the rear!
Your video helped me identify the failed engine mount on my car. Same type of noise, but I never would have thought to look at the mount. Thanks
Great video. I came across this after researching online about thumping noise. I had 4 tires replaced on my 2012 Toyota Highlander in April. Since then I had to have a total alignment 3 times. The tires were replaced again due to road noise, and then I had thumping noise. It was determined that one tire was deformed and it was replaced. Now I have slight rattling coming from the rear as if something is loose. Also, there is this "rusty' sound as mentioned earlier in this video coming from the front left when I turn the steering wheel to the left. I had absolutely none of these problems prior to changing the tires. 3 different shops had my car for full days and they cannot tell me anything. All of this in not even two months. Any help or advice is appreciated.
Thank you Eric! This video helped me find a knocking sound that's been getting worse (and driving me crazy!) for the past year. I checked all the things like ball joints, tie rod ends, control arms, stabilizer links, and struts. Even replaced some of them. Never thought to check the engine mounts. Had a bad lower driver side mount concealed by a splash shield on my 2001 Honda CR-V. It was utterly destroyed. Replaced both the left and right one and my car sounds like it did when I bought it new 17 years ago. I've been a subscriber since I found your channel several months back, and this is one example why. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and tips. It's saved me allot of pain.
My SUV has a loud single clunk sound (front right) when turning. Turn left *pop*, then you won’t hear it again until you turn right. Then after that, you won’t hear it again until you turn left. Whatever is causing this has also affected the alignment. It pulls right, and you have to push left to correct. I’m thinking tie rod, but idk.. Thanks to this video, it has inspired me to dig into this project.
Old video but helped me solve my problem!!!! I replaced both axles and a wheel bearing trying to fix a clunking that sounded like the axles or transmission. was about to replace both uppers and tie rods. Turned out a huge chunk of the cat broke apart from the inside and was making the very strange clunking noise. Did not sound like the exhaust rattling at all! DONT FORGET THE EXHAUST!!!
98 accord 4 cylinder
You look like an honest guy to me, im from Las Vegas and cannot find an honest mechanic, I got 2 cars a 2008 sr5 Toyota runner, and an Oldsmobile 1997 , what do you suggest for a my Runner if I'm running, when I step on the brakes the wheel is vibrating, tx
Great job! I'm troubleshooting an annoying clunk noise in my little 2013 Scion iQ and found a TSB on it but no fix for it. (TSB says "may exhibit a rattle or clunk type coming from the front strut mount area.) Per your video, I cannot recreate the noise unless I'm driving with the windows down over rough roads and bumps hitting the right side seem to cause the clunk more than the left.
Thanks Eric for the advice. I have a Toyota Corolla with 100k miles. It has a low speed rattle over bumps. I will jack up the front and have a look. A previous owner had it to a main dealer and they suspected steering intermediate shaft worn.
Has any work been done lately, especially in the same area ? By an amateur ?
Then OPQRST Onset, Provoke, Quality, Radiation, Site, Timing.
Onset - When did it start ? What was happening then ? How did it start ?
Provoke - What makes it better or worse ?
Quality - What is the sound ? Clunk, chirp, squeal, scrape ?
Radiate - Is the sound traveling ? (A shaky steering is maybe NOT the steering wheel)
Site - What is the actual location ?
Timing - When does it happen ? Bumps, high speed, turning, stopping ...
Then inspection, percussion like the hammer, instrumentation like a stethoscope, other issues that might effect the current problem ?
i wish there were mechanic's like this in Barnsley England we get told we are hearing things and turn the radio up amazing work by the way im a subscriber from now on
FOR VOLVO OWNERS:
On volvo cars and suv's made from around 1999-2009 like models such as xc90, xc70, v40, v60.. if you are hearing loud CLUNKING noise in the morning or whenever you turn the front wheel, or drive over a rough pavement or over small bumps and the clunking noise sounds like someone is hitting the insides of your wheel area with a hammer, then it's your upper front strut mounts and front strut bearings.
Ebay sells TONS of these kits because it was obviously a weak, failure-prone part. They cost like $60 for cheap-o chinese made FCP Euro kits, comes in 4 pieces (2-bubber mounts, 2 galvanized steel bearing units). Takes like an hour to do both if you got access to an air or electric impact gun, some odd 18mm, 21mm, and 16mm sockets, and a spring compressor (you can rent them from autozone too), and a floor jack.
Very cool. I didn't think the video was too long because there were so many useful concepts for a guy like me who is really technical and into troubleshooting. This was my first ETCG video and I subscribed!