Nice work overall, I'm laying a bunch myself right now. If you want to get a nice finish use something like the 5000 plus high strength mix, I switched to it and my finishes are beautiful. Also, if you're doing anything large like 100 forms or more buy a cement mixer. I got mine for 220 bucks and I feel like I'm saving so much doing it myself it's well worth it and also easy to sell when I'm done You can mix well in it then pour into a five gallon bucket and walk to and dump in form. I've been using two forms for speed and it works well when laying patios especially.
@@Tsibbbs hmmmmm I'm not sure what you're asking exactly but I used Sakrete 5,000 Plus High Strength Concrete Mix. I'm sure the Quikrete version is fine if that's what's in your area (concrete supplies are regional based on quarries etc). Any higher quality mix is probably fine, you just don't want the cheapest stuff with large, uneven chunks of aggregate and very little Portland cement in the mixture which is what gives you "cream" when you float the concrete. Buy a cheap bag and a good quality one and compare on test forms, you will be amazed at the difference in quality and ease of finishing. I recommend finishing first with a mag float then second with a finishing trowel. Remove form, and clean up edges using a masonry trowel or really any small trowel. The key to quick edge cleanup is a steep trowel angle.. almost 90 degrees, and a steady, fast hand. I've laid over 300 forms at this point so I've learned a lot haha.
@@Tsibbbs also helpful to use some sort of form release agent on your forms, I use WD 40.. that helps keep very clean edges that require less cleanup work.
Awesome. I plan to do this over in Hungary, need to make a car park area. This looks awesome and gives a nice effect when finished. Maybe I'll cement the area first and then once dried and level use this or similar over the top.
The form is only 2 inches thick, you need at least 4 inches to carry the weight of the car, so it doesn't crack. I used about 3/4s of a bag of 90 pounds of cement for one form.
quick tip: ALWAYS wear a safety mask with concrete dust. The dust is very bad for the lungs and you never want to accidentally breathe it in. A simple fine mesh mask will help protect your lungs.
I have the same old I got it from Lowe's for $14 I used 80 pound bags of concrete I did two bags at a time with one bag of red dye that I got from Home Depot but two of the 80 lb bags will do right at three of the mode it looks good and I love the process one thing I noticed you were doing that I did when I first started the first couple ones is leaving the mold down for a couple minutes with the 80 lb bag you're supposed to use 3 oz of water per bag but I was doing for an ounces per bag and as soon as you're done putting the concrete in the mold you can pull it right up you don't have to wait so with 280 lb bags I was using 8 oz of water
I did not joint mine.its holding up well the bad thang and no joint is grass trying to grow up when dirt gets built up. Has to be killed fast to not cause problems.
I just got done watching another video, the guy has his comment section turn off, a sign of he knew he screwed up but act like it didnt take place. By far you did a lot better job.. Only one thing that bothers me with your project. I would have laid a base of sand or pea gravel from past experience project I did..
I have watched so many of these videos. I have yet to take the plunge into such a task. I've seen on the Quikrete channel that they don't use anything underneath, no sand or no gravel. Question, how did yours not work? Thank you in advance.
I like your bucket method! Glad I found your video! A wheelbarrow is not really logical for our home so I'm glad to have found your method. Is that metal mixing tool intended for mixing? What's it called or where would I find it at Home Depot?
Hi I've been thinking of doing this, but I heard you saying it is harder on a slope, it didn't seem to slope that much, I have a steeper slope than that can you tell me how it becomes difficult on a slope please.
Having your cement mixture right so it will not flow underneath on a slope is critical do not make it too wet you have to pack it in there so gravity won't be trying to level it out in your mold.
I'm sorry I just couldn't watch this with the frame in a frame plus all the special effects. It was just too weird. How about a simple, straight forward video with clean and easy to understand info. Perhaps if you turn your phone sideways it will give you a nice landscape view and fill the frame.
Yes in most cases u want a isolation barrier between the ground and mold sand or gravel. the reason I did not use on this application was I was afraid it would under cave.A great deal of water still comes beside the walk way . It is holding up well tho. joining it is optional as well take note if you don't join it you will need to pressure wash it once a year and kill the grass that comes up in the collected cracks I was early just checking to see how versatile the design was and i love it
I like the chicken foreman in the background! Makin' sure you do good work. LOL.
You never proclaimed to be an expert. You showed us how “you did your walkway”--so thank you for the tips of do’s and don’ts.
get rid of the segmented camera lens
Irritating on a diy video....
Nice work overall, I'm laying a bunch myself right now. If you want to get a nice finish use something like the 5000 plus high strength mix, I switched to it and my finishes are beautiful. Also, if you're doing anything large like 100 forms or more buy a cement mixer. I got mine for 220 bucks and I feel like I'm saving so much doing it myself it's well worth it and also easy to sell when I'm done You can mix well in it then pour into a five gallon bucket and walk to and dump in form. I've been using two forms for speed and it works well when laying patios especially.
What percentage 5000 what percentage pro finish
@@Tsibbbs hmmmmm I'm not sure what you're asking exactly but I used Sakrete 5,000 Plus High Strength Concrete Mix. I'm sure the Quikrete version is fine if that's what's in your area (concrete supplies are regional based on quarries etc). Any higher quality mix is probably fine, you just don't want the cheapest stuff with large, uneven chunks of aggregate and very little Portland cement in the mixture which is what gives you "cream" when you float the concrete. Buy a cheap bag and a good quality one and compare on test forms, you will be amazed at the difference in quality and ease of finishing. I recommend finishing first with a mag float then second with a finishing trowel. Remove form, and clean up edges using a masonry trowel or really any small trowel. The key to quick edge cleanup is a steep trowel angle.. almost 90 degrees, and a steady, fast hand. I've laid over 300 forms at this point so I've learned a lot haha.
@@Tsibbbs also helpful to use some sort of form release agent on your forms, I use WD 40.. that helps keep very clean edges that require less cleanup work.
Very cool, and you made it look fairly simple, so thanks for the links too ! 🙂 looks really nice! Good job!..
Awesome. I plan to do this over in Hungary, need to make a car park area. This looks awesome and gives a nice effect when finished. Maybe I'll cement the area first and then once dried and level use this or similar over the top.
The form is only 2 inches thick, you need at least 4 inches to carry the weight of the car, so it doesn't crack. I used about 3/4s of a bag of 90 pounds of cement for one form.
quick tip: ALWAYS wear a safety mask with concrete dust. The dust is very bad for the lungs and you never want to accidentally breathe it in. A simple fine mesh mask will help protect your lungs.
Looks great! I appreciate the run through as I am always skeptical about the results of things like this.
I have the same old I got it from Lowe's for $14 I used 80 pound bags of concrete I did two bags at a time with one bag of red dye that I got from Home Depot but two of the 80 lb bags will do right at three of the mode it looks good and I love the process one thing I noticed you were doing that I did when I first started the first couple ones is leaving the mold down for a couple minutes with the 80 lb bag you're supposed to use 3 oz of water per bag but I was doing for an ounces per bag and as soon as you're done putting the concrete in the mold you can pull it right up you don't have to wait so with 280 lb bags I was using 8 oz of water
Also I'm not done yet I bought some stuff to put down on it that will give it a wet stone look
Great information thanks so much
Let’s see some pictures
I was wondering how people used these molds my wife’s wanted me to look into it ,I like the bucket idea less work on the back
Awesome video, very informative. Don't know if it's my phone, but screen had 3 views. Thanks
Great little production you’ve provided.
You might mention that a face mask to prevent inhalation of concrete cements would be advised.
Elliott Alderson ok thanks I'll keep in mind! glad u liked it!
Thank you!
Well done!
Very informative but the video format isn’t ideal and the music makes it hard to hear you. Full screen video would be awesome
Thanks for the advice next video full screen for sure
Awesome
Thank you
Can we see the finished product & your final thoughts and tips? Did you use a joint compound?
I did not joint mine.its holding up well the bad thang and no joint is grass trying to grow up when dirt gets built up. Has to be killed fast to not cause problems.
photos.app.goo.gl/4HmAC942rQdqDHC27
I'm doing some myself right now with European block pattern, planning on jointing with mortar then a light mist of water.
You have to remove the mold sooner than you do, if your cement doesn't keep its shape that means it was too liquid.
Is one bag filling one mold? Or is there extra?
60 pound bag is about spot on the 80 pound has extra
Good to know. The instructions say 80 lb bags per form. We bought 70, 60lb bags for a 12 x 12, 12 x 6 L shape extention for our back patio.
I just got done watching another video, the guy has his comment section turn off, a sign of he knew he screwed up but act like it didnt take place.
By far you did a lot better job..
Only one thing that bothers me with your project.
I would have laid a base of sand or pea gravel from past experience project I did..
I have watched so many of these videos. I have yet to take the plunge into such a task. I've seen on the Quikrete channel that they don't use anything underneath, no sand or no gravel. Question, how did yours not work? Thank you in advance.
Nice❣️
Work smart not hard. I like that mixing in the bucket idea.
I like your bucket method! Glad I found your video! A wheelbarrow is not really logical for our home so I'm glad to have found your method. Is that metal mixing tool intended for mixing? What's it called or where would I find it at Home Depot?
Thanks tina!Yes the metal mixing tool can be any heavy paint or sheet rock mud mixing pattle.
Whats that tool called that you used to mix the cement? it attached to the drill
Jarely Jones it was a sheet rock mud mixing tool from Lowe’s
Wear gloves. Stager your rows.
Hi I've been thinking of doing this, but I heard you saying it is harder on a slope, it didn't seem to slope that much, I have a steeper slope than that can you tell me how it becomes difficult on a slope please.
Having your cement mixture right so it will not flow underneath on a slope is critical do not make it too wet you have to pack it in there so gravity won't be trying to level it out in your mold.
I'm sorry I just couldn't watch this with the frame in a frame plus all the special effects. It was just too weird. How about a simple, straight forward video with clean and easy to understand info. Perhaps if you turn your phone sideways it will give you a nice landscape view and fill the frame.
How is it holding up? I been reading that some people put gravel and sand before putting the mold.
Johana Ince no and it turned out great no cracks yet👍 I had a good solid ground tho if it would have been soft I would have considered a good base
You don’t put sand underneath? Also, do you put grout in between when they dry?
Yes in most cases u want a isolation barrier between the ground and mold sand or gravel. the reason I did not use on this application was I was afraid it would under cave.A great deal of water still comes beside the walk way . It is holding up well tho. joining it is optional as well take note if you don't join it you will need to pressure wash it once a year and kill the grass that comes up in the collected cracks I was early just checking to see how versatile the design was and i love it
MR Now i completed it! I used the sand in between that you spray with water and then it hardens. It’s really easy, looks great
Is it 1 80 pound bag of concrete for every 3 molds?
The 60 lb bag does one mold
can't focus because of the crazy camera lens ...but thank you.
Sorry and yw!
Dangerously sharp….! No it’s not