Hopefully this helps people with choosing the right battery for their fpv race drone and a special thanks to my patreon supporters. Also there are a bunch of links to batteries in the description if you just want some recommendations.
UAVfutures thanks Stu! I haven't been able to buy lipos off BG for bout 2 months but after using your link I can again. It said was unable to ship to my address but is all good now. Must be your influence. Cheers mate
Great explanation of what the numbers mean, but I was hoping you would be advising on what size (mah) battery you would recommend, I am building a 3" 130 and wondered what a good battery capacity would be, thanks for the great videos!
So, you advise the newbies to "go grab the highest affordable to you C rating battery". And then they hit the throttle on their quads and they fry the ESCs, the board and the BECs, the VTX etc... If you are going to do a video about batteries in general, especially for quad newbies, state all the facts, the calculations with the AMPs they offer and support this video's title "How to choose the right battery". Don't just say "Go get high C rating because the battery is better". It's cost ineffective and dangerous.
The S stand for series, meaning 2 or more cells in series. you can also get cells in parallel in some packs. The C rating is a multiplication of the Ah rating. 1.3Ah times 100C is 130Amps.
I am running a 6-inch tri-blade quad with a 30a ESC and Racestar BR2403s. How do I know which C rating is suitable for any setup, let alone mine? I assume a 75c to 100c would be suitable for this setup.
I know this is an old video, BUT I've watched 3 or 4 videos on batteries, And your video is the only one that got the information into my thick head !! So thank you for your patience teaching this old dog A new trick.
As a relatively new pilot I really like the MultiStar 1400mAh 4S 40-80C. They have really nice punch and have lasted perfect since I got them 7 months ago and they are only about $19 USD
Stu, thanks for the work you do on this channel. I'm picking this hobby back up because of the enthusiasm and knowledge you deliver in these videos. I wouldn't have bothered starting to research/buy/build/sim again without this channel for sure.
I am new to drone racing, but I have a lot of experience with batteries, having served on submarines and worked with directed energy weapons. As some comments have already mentioned, the 's' in 4s stand for series and a ‘p’ would represent parallel, identifying how the cells are connected to each other. Since most racing drone batteries appear to be a single string of batteries (for example 4s1p), it appears that the 1p is omitted on the packaging for convenience. With respect to the ‘c’ rating, the ‘c’ stands for capacity. For LiPo batteries, the capacity is typically based on a 1 hour discharge rate, so a 1500 mAh battery should take 1 hour to fully discharge at a rate of 1500 mA. The ‘c’ rating of the LiPo is the maximum current that can be safely drawn from the battery without damaging it. A 25C battery can draw a current of 25 X its capacity, but at higher discharge rates, you won’t get the rated capacity of the battery because the internal resistance of the battery increases with temperature and temperature will increase with current. So if you are ripping around at full speed and drawing maximum current from your LiPo all of the time, you may only get half of the rated capacity.
Main deficiency of this video is that it doesn't cover the weight of our batteries. Additional weight of our batteries we have to fly around all the time we are in the air with our quads. And additional weight consumes additional watts!
This one came just when I needed it. As usual - not ordering anything without watching your reviews. Thanks for the video. How about a video on choosing right lipos for goggles aswell?
The S stands for "series" as in how many cells are connected in series; it's not because 'C' is already taken. You could easily have a 2 cell lipo where the cells are in parallel and only has 3.7 volts nominal instead of 7.4. Usually you see something like '4S1P' to designate how many cells are in series and how many cells in parallel, with the total number of cells being the product of the two numbers.
Hey Stew I love your videos! I'm still a novice pilot but have been soldering since I was 11yrs old and bought my first "real" RC car the RC-10. I feel like you the olny thing that was missed. Was finding out the maximum amp draw a battery can discharge. Which is the C rating but what does that really tell you? Not much really unless you take it's C rating and multiply that by amp hours(not mah). Now you know if you are coming close to being able to feed those hungry motors or if you could still get a little more out of them by increasing the C rating of your battery or if you are just wasting money getting a higher C rated battery. Having extra amp draw won't hurt your components it won't draw what it doesn't need. Having to much voltage is what will fry them. Thanks for all of the proper information and truthful reviews you put out there! Regards Murry
Good info for newbs. I've been using Turnigy Graphene 65C for about a year and can strongly recommend them although they are relatively heavy. At least 400 cycles on mine and still as new. Recently I have tried some Dinogy Mega Graphene 2.0 75C 4S and 5S 1350mAh and I have to say they are superb. Notably punchier and higher capacity than Turnigys. If they last 400+ cycles they will be great value. They are also relatively light. Infinity 70C Graphene Tech's are very nearly as good as the Dinogy...My experience of graphene batteries means I buy nothing else...30 years electric RC experience...
Thanks again Stu for the great informative video. The charging video you linked is my go to gospel. Now that parallel charging is becoming more common, could you do a 'to the point' video as a part 2 of this video? A no fuss version of your old one? On this topic i have a question for the Q&A: Q1. Is is possible to safely parallel discharge your batteries? Q2. If so, is it as important that they are of the same mah/brand/C rating and current voltage (not cell; thats a no brainer)? I figure if the charger is balancing as it discharges, and usually at a much lower rate (roughly 0.2A/cell), then it shouldn't matter the starting voltage or mah rating; should it?
Great general video but it would be great to dig deeper in regards to making sure the battery you choose being 100% compatible with your setup. I’m constantly trying to remember the “math” for the ESC, and I still don’t understand how prop size can affect things.
Minor correction, 4s is not just about cell count but also their configuration. 4s means 4 cells in series, 4p means 4 cells in parallel. You could also have a 4s2p battery pack, which means there are two packs of 4 cells in series connected in parallel. This last example would give the same voltage as a regular 4s but with twice the capacity and would total 8 cells.
Hey, thanks for making this video! I'm actually getting into DIY drones for the first time and wanted some help in understanding what I want to get for the battery pack. This has been so helpful!
Nice review Stu, for the cell count, it may be worth mentioning that if you count the number of wires in the balance plug, it will be one more wire than the cell count (some batteries don't actually list the # of cells and with a opaque case, you can't see the individual cells. Also, maybe worth mentioning that each cell is 3.7V (nominal) so people can add that to figure out themselves (oh don't forget the discharged and fully charged range too for charging)
1s, 2s, 3s, 4s..etc.. the S stands for SERIES. Say it's a 4s battery.. Right, that means: 4 batteries wired in series. Technically it's a 4s1p Pack. We don't experience it looking for quad racing batteries, but there are 4s2p, 3s3p battery packs and many more configurations. . those mean 4 in series, 2 parallel, 3 series 3 parallel, respectively. just a heads up. love your channel.
I have been tossing round the idea of upgrading from 3s to 4s because I am still learning and since I have a few 3s batteries Ido not really want to spend the money and buy all new 4s batteries. Possibly after the holidays I will have some cash free to spend on things like batteries. I also need to find a few decent parallel boards in order to charge them more efficiently. Thanks for the help here Stew as always very informative :) Oh and I just realized you are almost to the 100k mark, very nice ;)
Yea I am going to get a stack of 4s after Christmas, maybe I will get lucky and they will all be on sale then. Right. There are other things I need to get first though I am sure, like a better FPV camera, Transmitter that actually works more often than it doesn't. Things like that lol, but thanks for the advice I will be getting some for sure.
I'm sure you torture batteries, would love to know in your experience on which ones seem to take a beating and hold up the best. Thank you and happy flying.
You can think of mah as the size of your gas tank. The more gas you have the longer you can fly, but the larger your gas tank the heavier it gets. Heavier gas tank means that you need 40% throttle to hover rather than 30%, meaning you use your gas faster. Basically the current ideal is 1300 - 1500mah. Maybe in years to come if batteries get lighter (or motors get more efficient) we might find the ideal shifts to 1500mah - 1800mah.
Hi Stu, you didn’t explain (or didn’t know?) that you should multiply the C rating by the capacity. So a 5.0Ah 20C battery can only supply 100A where a 1.3Ah battery needs to be around 65C to supply about the same current safely.
I had a bad experience with 3 batches of newly bought Tattu 1550mAh 14.8V 75C 4S1P Lipo Battery Pack recently. The inner resistance in Ohm was above 10 per cell resulting in a speedy breakdown of Voltage during the flight. In my feeling batteries with these high Ohm ratings need to be sorted out. Fortunately the dealers returned the money, however, in my understanding it's a quality issue with the manufacturer. Stew, I suggest you look into the Ohm settings per cell as well in the future.
G'day Stew! 1st off, I still get excited every time I see the new intro. Love it!!! 2nd, could you explain how a batteries rating coorilates with esc's and motor ratings? I know you touch on it in several videos but I'm still very nervous about getting components that require more/less power. Don't wanna burn anything up. Haha
I run the GNB blue label on my arfun pro it is a 2s 550mah battery and it is fantastic it says 80c 160c I run them hard and average around 90 cycles before they go bad I have not tried there red label batteries but the blue label are great for micros
mxwizzard the blue labels are the best micro batts on the market by my experience and many others. I have yet to try the 110c and 120c miniquad batts, but if they're anything like the 80c micro batts -- they're excellent.
Im a bit surprised you did not mention tatuu batteries. I live in Colorado and do allot of freestyle in the mountains so I need a punchy battery with low sag.For the price range I. truly think the 1350 tatuu r line can't be beat. Of course this is all preference
Found this very useful. The only thing that wasn’t mentioned was weight differences but I think I can figure that out for myself. Plus it’s probably not so important in bigger builds, I’ve only built tiny whoops so far where every gram counts lol
Don't you think you could add a constant amp load to a battery and then check the voltage drop and some how use that to calculate discharge of the battery? I've always wondered that
Yes, at the cost of carrying more weight or reducing max voltage. Either reduces the maximum thrust or increases the mass. Ends up having a less reactive drone that can fly for longer
You forgot to mention that the same C rating on a 1.5Ah and a 1.3Ah is different. The 1.5Ah will provide ~15% more amperage than the 1.3Ah for the same C rating. This is why it's acceptable to get a bit lower C rated large capacity battery. (amperage should equal Amp-hours times C rating)
amperage is current expressed in amps and wattage is power expressed in watts. Isn't this acceptable language to use? I can even find these terms in a dictionary. I just figured talking about it in a unit specific way would help clear up confusion since C rating isn't a universal measurement of current
It's called 2s, 3s etc because the cells are in a Series circuit. S=series. Though rare, there are also Parallel battery circuit alternatives. (I.e. 3s2p)
Hiya Stew, as a fellow Aussie, do u have any recommended lipo sources (particularly for small 2-3s micros) down here? There's always hobbyking I guess, but we seem to be limited on good sources with our shipping limitations... Thx for keeping us all up to date with all the new directions in quadgoodness!
Can you go a little further into the battery breakdown. As in relation to the esc that you have in your quad. I would hate to see people go buy a big battery and see their quad go up in flames.
Maybe it was worth mentioning that the S in 4S means 4 cells in Series, and that the C rating is a multiplier that, times the capacity, gives you how many amperes you can pump from the battery pack. Strange that you left out these critical pieces of information
Before i got an fpv drone i was running a traxxas slash with a castle motor and 2s batteries were always like $50+ and i got into fpv and it was so much cheaper
Great info! and good recommendations/advice. This lines up pretty much with all the other info I had to scour for while I was purchasing parts for my first drone.
Sup my friend thanks for the video I have a question i have the turnigy battery pack the one you are showing in the video and the package what is covered the battery inside is inflated is that bad?
FIRST! Oh and by the way...in case you didn't know, "s" stands for series as in the number of cells in series. ^ just thought I'd join in and copy literally every comment here.
C ratings are complete rubbish as everyone should know by now. Buy on brand and weight of the battery versus the stated capacity. A decent 1300 4S should weigh at least 165-170g. A decent 1500 should weigh 180-190g. There are exceptions based on quality and XT60 length, but it's a good rule of thumb. You'll some brands underspec their batteries as they weigh hefty like a Turnigy Graphene.
I have found a massive difference in 1s tiny whoop style drone c ratings. Nine eagles 300mah 45-90c is incredible compared to same brand 260mah 35-70. The weight difference is so small it makes no noticeable difference but that 90c I believe it 100% comparatively to the 70c. 40 mah difference plays is but the nine eagles is the only 1s in any size I've found with a 90c. With 19,000kv 75,000rpm (blade efficiency is a concern I have as blade count /pitch can only do so much) we need feathering props ;) but anyways with the little guys I personally find a huge difference. I've got about 8 different 1s options retro fitted into my eachine e010s and I'm just loving the 90c. I'm a believer. But yeah you get into 3s there's so much junk kinda like he said with the 210c or whatever it was... Yeah... Right...
I am going to get a Happymodel Mantis for my first drone. I see the battery is really bad and I am still not sure if i should get a high mAh 2s such as this 7.4v 5000mAh LiPo i found. Is it safe?
Good day stu. Have you tried the china hobby line g+ lipo s? Their newest one are supposedly 100c and they are really well priced. I just got 3 4s 100c for 60 bucks. Haven't flown them yet but I don't get to put batteries thru the paces like you. They don't say Graphene but I'm hoping that is what g+ series are. Thought maybe you could give them a look. Cheers
Hey ... Have it ever happened to you - because I hear it a lot - "be aware, LiPo's can be dinosaurs", ... like overheating / over changing a battery, battery court fire and so on. ... and ... Do you have any recommendations to look out for?
So I heard ... I'm new to the hobby and the only thing I need now is a good and reliable Charger. And some LiPos. And I need to find and figure out the "What Not To Done" so I know the risk :)
I am totally new to the hobby and did a bit of research but I missed the info about C rating. I bought some 4s. 14.8v batteries but they are 50c. Will they still be strong enough to lift a 4 inch drone? Any help is appreciated!
Hi Stu I am probably the worst pilot that I know and crash a lot. I find that my batteries get beaten up more than my props ;) Although I've never had a fire or a problem with charging/balancing. When I have a battery that comes back from the field bent like a banana or crushed to 2/3rds of its original size i usually toss it. My question to you is how much of a beating can a lipo take until it is unsafe and how much can you manipulate it if it is damaged. None of my batteries have been pierced.
I get mine pretty much exclusively from hobby king and they range in price from $7 to $27 (I hang out for the sales). I have about 6 left, all have some sort of damage, I have thrown out 4 so far, not happy about that, its why I want to know about how far I can safely push them. The ones that I have range from 1Ah to 2.2Ah all at or above 35C in 3S and 4S voltages.
Hopefully this helps people with choosing the right battery for their fpv race drone and a special thanks to my patreon supporters. Also there are a bunch of links to batteries in the description if you just want some recommendations.
UAVfutures thanks Stu! I haven't been able to buy lipos off BG for bout 2 months but after using your link I can again. It said was unable to ship to my address but is all good now. Must be your influence. Cheers mate
man i couldnt find any better video tht explains so well!! thnx stew keep it up
Great explanation of what the numbers mean, but I was hoping you would be advising on what size (mah) battery you would recommend, I am building a 3" 130 and wondered what a good battery capacity would be, thanks for the great videos!
So, you advise the newbies to "go grab the highest affordable to you C rating battery". And then they hit the throttle on their quads and they fry the ESCs, the board and the BECs, the VTX etc... If you are going to do a video about batteries in general, especially for quad newbies, state all the facts, the calculations with the AMPs they offer and support this video's title "How to choose the right battery". Don't just say "Go get high C rating because the battery is better". It's cost ineffective and dangerous.
Thanks stu these sort of vids are really good, lol ive gotten alot of stuff from your vids like this cheers
2 years later this video is still helping fpv newbs... Thanks brother
The S stand for series, meaning 2 or more cells in series. you can also get cells in parallel in some packs. The C rating is a multiplication of the Ah rating. 1.3Ah times 100C is 130Amps.
I am running a 6-inch tri-blade quad with a 30a ESC and Racestar BR2403s. How do I know which C rating is suitable for any setup, let alone mine? I assume a 75c to 100c would be suitable for this setup.
@@suveersingh2871 so a 1300mAh 100C 4S, or up to a 2200mAh 60C 4S. Or somthing in the middle.
I know this is an old video, BUT I've watched 3 or 4 videos on batteries, And your video is the only one that got the information into my thick head !! So thank you for your patience teaching this old dog A new trick.
As a relatively new pilot I really like the MultiStar 1400mAh 4S 40-80C. They have really nice punch and have lasted perfect since I got them 7 months ago and they are only about $19 USD
Which one are you using or that ur refuring to
Stu, thanks for the work you do on this channel. I'm picking this hobby back up because of the enthusiasm and knowledge you deliver in these videos. I wouldn't have bothered starting to research/buy/build/sim again without this channel for sure.
I am new to drone racing, but I have a lot of experience with batteries, having served on submarines and worked with directed energy weapons. As some comments have already mentioned, the 's' in 4s stand for series and a ‘p’ would represent parallel, identifying how the cells are connected to each other. Since most racing drone batteries appear to be a single string of batteries (for example 4s1p), it appears that the 1p is omitted on the packaging for convenience. With respect to the ‘c’ rating, the ‘c’ stands for capacity. For LiPo batteries, the capacity is typically based on a 1 hour discharge rate, so a 1500 mAh battery should take 1 hour to fully discharge at a rate of 1500 mA. The ‘c’ rating of the LiPo is the maximum current that can be safely drawn from the battery without damaging it. A 25C battery can draw a current of 25 X its capacity, but at higher discharge rates, you won’t get the rated capacity of the battery because the internal resistance of the battery increases with temperature and temperature will increase with current. So if you are ripping around at full speed and drawing maximum current from your LiPo all of the time, you may only get half of the rated capacity.
I believe s stands for series that’s why 3 cell is 3 s bc there are 3 cells in series.
Actually it would be 3s1p even though it seems a bit strange :)
It is not strange, it's the same with 1s1p batteries, you need to spec how many are there.
Correct
Thanks! Just going through my video feed...scrolling. Watching what looks like it may be worthwhile to watch...
Stu, the “s” stands for series (as in 4 cells in series as opposed to parallel). Happy flying! :)
what did he say in the video though cause i am too lazy to watch?
Main deficiency of this video is that it doesn't cover the weight of our batteries. Additional weight of our batteries we have to fly around all the time we are in the air with our quads. And additional weight consumes additional watts!
This one came just when I needed it. As usual - not ordering anything without watching your reviews. Thanks for the video.
How about a video on choosing right lipos for goggles aswell?
any battery within voltage range is fine for a goggle, drones are just a bit different because they draw so so many amps
UAVfutures Any suggestions for HeadPlay V2?
The S stands for "series" as in how many cells are connected in series; it's not because 'C' is already taken. You could easily have a 2 cell lipo where the cells are in parallel and only has 3.7 volts nominal instead of 7.4. Usually you see something like '4S1P' to designate how many cells are in series and how many cells in parallel, with the total number of cells being the product of the two numbers.
The way you type "Mah" at the title bothers me
Mah!!! The meatloaf!!!
In the technical world, little things matter ;)
Yes it’s supposed to be mAh not Mah
Hey Stew I love your videos! I'm still a novice pilot but have been soldering since I was 11yrs old and bought my first "real" RC car the RC-10. I feel like you the olny thing that was missed. Was finding out the maximum amp draw a battery can discharge. Which is the C rating but what does that really tell you? Not much really unless you take it's C rating and multiply that by amp hours(not mah). Now you know if you are coming close to being able to feed those hungry motors or if you could still get a little more out of them by increasing the C rating of your battery or if you are just wasting money getting a higher C rated battery. Having extra amp draw won't hurt your components it won't draw what it doesn't need. Having to much voltage is what will fry them. Thanks for all of the proper information and truthful reviews you put out there! Regards Murry
Stew.....you have helped me so much and you don't even know....i love you stew
Oh man that 800mah 5s multistar from thumbnail. I have just 1 left. Such an awesome lipo for my 3”. Need moar.
I swear you're reading my mind because I was looking for batteries yesterday
Good info for newbs. I've been using Turnigy Graphene 65C for about a year and can strongly recommend them although they are relatively heavy. At least 400 cycles on mine and still as new. Recently I have tried some Dinogy Mega Graphene 2.0 75C 4S and 5S 1350mAh and I have to say they are superb. Notably punchier and higher capacity than Turnigys. If they last 400+ cycles they will be great value. They are also relatively light. Infinity 70C Graphene Tech's are very nearly as good as the Dinogy...My experience of graphene batteries means I buy nothing else...30 years electric RC experience...
Thanks again Stu for the great informative video.
The charging video you linked is my go to gospel.
Now that parallel charging is becoming more common, could you do a 'to the point' video as a part 2 of this video? A no fuss version of your old one?
On this topic i have a question for the Q&A:
Q1. Is is possible to safely parallel discharge your batteries?
Q2. If so, is it as important that they are of the same mah/brand/C rating and current voltage (not cell; thats a no brainer)?
I figure if the charger is balancing as it discharges, and usually at a much lower rate (roughly 0.2A/cell), then it shouldn't matter the starting voltage or mah rating; should it?
Great general video but it would be great to dig deeper in regards to making sure the battery you choose being 100% compatible with your setup. I’m constantly trying to remember the “math” for the ESC, and I still don’t understand how prop size can affect things.
Minor correction, 4s is not just about cell count but also their configuration. 4s means 4 cells in series, 4p means 4 cells in parallel. You could also have a 4s2p battery pack, which means there are two packs of 4 cells in series connected in parallel. This last example would give the same voltage as a regular 4s but with twice the capacity and would total 8 cells.
How much mah battery should We use for 2600kv brushless motor for a better flight
Hey, thanks for making this video! I'm actually getting into DIY drones for the first time and wanted some help in understanding what I want to get for the battery pack. This has been so helpful!
Remember its "C" rating times Mah to give you its amp rating so a 75C x 1.3 Ah = 97.5A and 60C x 1.5Ah= 90A
Question so more amps =better? (I'm still learning about drone electronics)
Nice review Stu, for the cell count, it may be worth mentioning that if you count the number of wires in the balance plug, it will be one more wire than the cell count (some batteries don't actually list the # of cells and with a opaque case, you can't see the individual cells.
Also, maybe worth mentioning that each cell is 3.7V (nominal) so people can add that to figure out themselves (oh don't forget the discharged and fully charged range too for charging)
Stew could you please do a video explaining the differences between flight controllers?
whats the difference between f4, f3, betaflight, kiss?
Ohhhh that chop stick has returned or I haven't seen it lately ahahaha
It is the chopstick of truth
@@OdgeBodge youth*
Yona Sun what
@@OdgeBodge 🤦♂️
Wow...! I like that new UAV intro..!
Cool...!
I cant believe u look at all these stew.
I love reading all the comments.
1s, 2s, 3s, 4s..etc.. the S stands for SERIES. Say it's a 4s battery.. Right, that means: 4 batteries wired in series. Technically it's a 4s1p Pack. We don't experience it looking for quad racing batteries, but there are 4s2p, 3s3p battery packs and many more configurations. . those mean 4 in series, 2 parallel, 3 series 3 parallel, respectively. just a heads up. love your channel.
I believe S stnds for series as in number of cells in series.for example the new 4S2P batteries are 4 cell in series 2 in parallel if im not mistaken
I have been tossing round the idea of upgrading from 3s to 4s because I am still learning and since I have a few 3s batteries Ido not really want to spend the money and buy all new 4s batteries. Possibly after the holidays I will have some cash free to spend on things like batteries. I also need to find a few decent parallel boards in order to charge them more efficiently. Thanks for the help here Stew as always very informative :) Oh and I just realized you are almost to the 100k mark, very nice ;)
Just do it I started on 4s just don't go full throttle!
Yea I am going to get a stack of 4s after Christmas, maybe I will get lucky and they will all be on sale then. Right. There are other things I need to get first though I am sure, like a better FPV camera, Transmitter that actually works more often than it doesn't. Things like that lol, but thanks for the advice I will be getting some for sure.
I recently got the Eachine Wizard x220. I’m thinking of upgrading some of the components. What should I upgrade first?
I'm sure you torture batteries, would love to know in your experience on which ones seem to take a beating and hold up the best. Thank you and happy flying.
Stew, when are we going to see part 2 of the GEPRC Sparrow review? Anxious to see that little "bad boy" go.
wednesday
You can think of mah as the size of your gas tank. The more gas you have the longer you can fly, but the larger your gas tank the heavier it gets. Heavier gas tank means that you need 40% throttle to hover rather than 30%, meaning you use your gas faster. Basically the current ideal is 1300 - 1500mah. Maybe in years to come if batteries get lighter (or motors get more efficient) we might find the ideal shifts to 1500mah - 1800mah.
Hi Stu, you didn’t explain (or didn’t know?) that you should multiply the C rating by the capacity. So a 5.0Ah 20C battery can only supply 100A where a 1.3Ah battery needs to be around 65C to supply about the same current safely.
I had a bad experience with 3 batches of newly bought Tattu 1550mAh 14.8V 75C 4S1P Lipo Battery Pack recently. The inner resistance in Ohm was above 10 per cell resulting in a speedy breakdown of Voltage during the flight. In my feeling batteries with these high Ohm ratings need to be sorted out. Fortunately the dealers returned the money, however, in my understanding it's a quality issue with the manufacturer.
Stew, I suggest you look into the Ohm settings per cell as well in the future.
Congrats with new chop stick!
G'day Stew! 1st off, I still get excited every time I see the new intro. Love it!!! 2nd, could you explain how a batteries rating coorilates with esc's and motor ratings? I know you touch on it in several videos but I'm still very nervous about getting components that require more/less power. Don't wanna burn anything up. Haha
I know all of this already but I watched the whole thing anyway. Great job Stew!
Excellent video! Everyone should know what these terms are.
Can I put a racing battery in a toy rated drone and it have longer flight time?
I run the GNB blue label on my arfun pro it is a 2s 550mah battery and it is fantastic it says 80c 160c I run them hard and average around 90 cycles before they go bad I have not tried there red label batteries but the blue label are great for micros
mxwizzard the blue labels are the best micro batts on the market by my experience and many others. I have yet to try the 110c and 120c miniquad batts, but if they're anything like the 80c micro batts -- they're excellent.
Im a bit surprised you did not mention tatuu batteries. I live in Colorado and do allot of freestyle in the mountains so I need a punchy battery with low sag.For the price range I. truly think the 1350 tatuu r line can't be beat. Of course this is all preference
Found this very useful. The only thing that wasn’t mentioned was weight differences but I think I can figure that out for myself. Plus it’s probably not so important in bigger builds, I’ve only built tiny whoops so far where every gram counts lol
Can you please make na tutorial video that explain proper props direction and how to identify it. Thank you so much! 😊
Sorry if it's a newbie question, but how do you charge the batteries back up? Do they come with chargers?
S = series
P = parallel
The 2200 was a plane battery. For one motor it is fine and does have a high discharge rate.
So I just bought my first drone...I have been wondering if 45C is going to be enough for learning how to fly the drone???
Don't you think you could add a constant amp load to a battery and then check the voltage drop and some how use that to calculate discharge of the battery? I've always wondered that
Do a video on how to pick a good charger
Can you splice 2 batteries together in parallel to get the extra flying time?
Yes, at the cost of carrying more weight or reducing max voltage. Either reduces the maximum thrust or increases the mass. Ends up having a less reactive drone that can fly for longer
I'm trying to figure out what battery will give me a longer flight time it's the red cat carbon 210 race quad. Any suggestions?
You forgot to mention that the same C rating on a 1.5Ah and a 1.3Ah is different. The 1.5Ah will provide ~15% more amperage than the 1.3Ah for the same C rating. This is why it's acceptable to get a bit lower C rated large capacity battery. (amperage should equal Amp-hours times C rating)
amperage is current expressed in amps and wattage is power expressed in watts. Isn't this acceptable language to use? I can even find these terms in a dictionary. I just figured talking about it in a unit specific way would help clear up confusion since C rating isn't a universal measurement of current
It's called 2s, 3s etc because the cells are in a Series circuit. S=series. Though rare, there are also Parallel battery circuit alternatives. (I.e. 3s2p)
Hmm, my search for some Tattu R-Links didn't turn up anything ;)
the c rated mentioned in a pack is for one cell or for the whole pack?
Hiya Stew, as a fellow Aussie, do u have any recommended lipo sources (particularly for small 2-3s micros) down here? There's always hobbyking I guess, but we seem to be limited on good sources with our shipping limitations... Thx for keeping us all up to date with all the new directions in quadgoodness!
rich23d Phaser & Micromotor Warehouse are a start
If do you go HobbyKing, just make sure to select only the Australian warehouse. That way you can get cheap batteries and cheap postage.
Dizzy Fpv great! quite a few 2s options at phaser fpv, plus they stock diatone gt90 micro ccd cams for under AUD$35...
what battery are you using for your taranis QX7?
Suggestions for new motors on my 215 Freestyle/race quad
Can you go a little further into the battery breakdown. As in relation to the esc that you have in your quad. I would hate to see people go buy a big battery and see their quad go up in flames.
You taught me somethings new today. Thank you Sir, well explained
What are some good budget 5s batterys
Maybe it was worth mentioning that the S in 4S means 4 cells in Series, and that the C rating is a multiplier that, times the capacity, gives you how many amperes you can pump from the battery pack. Strange that you left out these critical pieces of information
Before i got an fpv drone i was running a traxxas slash with a castle motor and 2s batteries were always like $50+ and i got into fpv and it was so much cheaper
Good video and this will be a whole lot of help for newbies, especially newbies who are trying to get all of this figured out by interweb only
Hey Stu it's been a while since I've watched your video your still top on my watching
I want to make solar rc plane which kindi of battery should I buy.
Great info! and good recommendations/advice. This lines up pretty much with all the other info I had to scour for while I was purchasing parts for my first drone.
Sup my friend thanks for the video I have a question i have the turnigy battery pack the one you are showing in the video and the package what is covered the battery inside is inflated is that bad?
what do you think about square batteries out in the market now. Do they really help the CG of X quad?
If my drone doesn’t have a buzzer to signal that the battery is almost drained, how do i know when to land?
wow i was just thinking of asking u about this when u posted this stu!😄
Sir i am using br 2212 2450kv motors for my f330 frame quadcopter.suggest me which battery is reqmended for these motors
Thanks mate for doing the video, much respect Daz
Thank you so much for this video
FIRST! Oh and by the way...in case you didn't know, "s" stands for series as in the number of cells in series.
^ just thought I'd join in and copy literally every comment here.
C ratings are complete rubbish as everyone should know by now. Buy on brand and weight of the battery versus the stated capacity. A decent 1300 4S should weigh at least 165-170g. A decent 1500 should weigh 180-190g. There are exceptions based on quality and XT60 length, but it's a good rule of thumb. You'll some brands underspec their batteries as they weigh hefty like a Turnigy Graphene.
I have found a massive difference in 1s tiny whoop style drone c ratings. Nine eagles 300mah 45-90c is incredible compared to same brand 260mah 35-70. The weight difference is so small it makes no noticeable difference but that 90c I believe it 100% comparatively to the 70c. 40 mah difference plays is but the nine eagles is the only 1s in any size I've found with a 90c. With 19,000kv 75,000rpm (blade efficiency is a concern I have as blade count /pitch can only do so much) we need feathering props ;) but anyways with the little guys I personally find a huge difference. I've got about 8 different 1s options retro fitted into my eachine e010s and I'm just loving the 90c. I'm a believer. But yeah you get into 3s there's so much junk kinda like he said with the 210c or whatever it was... Yeah... Right...
Are graphene batteries better?
Hi, thanks for the informative vid. What would you recommend for the Skyzone Sky02x?? I'd appreciate your input, thanks again
How good those 4S 1500 mAh Turniq 65/130C graphenes are? Same 4S 1300 mAh batteries are quite good, however sometimes begin to sag on long punches.
I was thinking about getting a max amps battery, what do you think about them?
I am going to get a Happymodel Mantis for my first drone. I see the battery is really bad and I am still not sure if i should get a high mAh 2s such as this 7.4v 5000mAh LiPo i found. Is it safe?
Great video as usual Stew!
Do Graphine batteries charge the same as lipos?
Good day stu. Have you tried the china hobby line g+ lipo s? Their newest one are supposedly 100c and they are really well priced. I just got 3 4s 100c for 60 bucks. Haven't flown them yet but I don't get to put batteries thru the paces like you. They don't say Graphene but I'm hoping that is what g+ series are. Thought maybe you could give them a look. Cheers
Hey ... Have it ever happened to you - because I hear it a lot - "be aware, LiPo's can be dinosaurs", ... like overheating / over changing a battery, battery court fire and so on. ... and ... Do you have any recommendations to look out for?
So I heard ... I'm new to the hobby and the only thing I need now is a good and reliable Charger. And some LiPos. And I need to find and figure out the "What Not To Done" so I know the risk :)
I am totally new to the hobby and did a bit of research but I missed the info about C rating. I bought some 4s. 14.8v batteries but they are 50c. Will they still be strong enough to lift a 4 inch drone? Any help is appreciated!
is their any brands that are considered better then the rest??
So it is okay if your c rating is more higher than your esc??
Otg receiver review pls?
Have any links of 1500mah that ship to Canada?
Can I use Infinity 4S 14.8V 1500mAh 70C Graphene LiPo Battery?and let me know if I can use this battery then what kind of change in parts I should do?
Hi all ? Once choosing the battery, with what do you charge it ?? 😳
Im looking for 7.4V 1100mAh rc helicopter battery for so long but ever since i cant even find the right store
Hi Stu I am probably the worst pilot that I know and crash a lot. I find that my batteries get beaten up more than my props ;)
Although I've never had a fire or a problem with charging/balancing. When I have a battery that comes back from the field bent like a banana or crushed to 2/3rds of its original size i usually toss it. My question to you is how much of a beating can a lipo take until it is unsafe and how much can you manipulate it if it is damaged. None of my batteries have been pierced.
I get mine pretty much exclusively from hobby king and they range in price from $7 to $27 (I hang out for the sales). I have about 6 left, all have some sort of damage, I have thrown out 4 so far, not happy about that, its why I want to know about how far I can safely push them. The ones that I have range from 1Ah to 2.2Ah all at or above 35C in 3S and 4S voltages.
Cheers for that link Stu 👍 Legend 🙏
one thing with the tattuu battery I don't see much difference between the 75c and 95c