Luckily for me chalk is one of those "everything works" kind of things. They all dry my extremely sweaty hands effectively. There's never been a moment where I've been like "boy, I wish I had some better chalk". Nah, I grab the cheapest by volume chalk I can find. Usually it's a lot grittier but, it all works. Gotta, save my money for some nice shoes/re-soles... and rope.... and cams... and... oh hey my money is gone.
Don't agree. I'm not convinced (yet) by that über expensive Friction Labs chalk. But there are definitely HUGE differences between all the chalk brands.
U r lucky. I'm getting sweat like hell and I often find my finger tips skin colour first grip after I chalked them. So on one hand it is marketing but on other some people need other variations to check and pick. It doesn't always have to be most expensive though
I used that 8b+ as my second ever chalk. Everything you’ve said about it is spot on. It does tend to leave your hand very easily. Even on short boulders my hands looked fairly devoid of chalk. However, the undeniable feeling of reaching into your chalk bag and feeling like your hand is coated in clouds is something I’ll keep coming back to. Using white gold rn.
i like unicorn dust. has the right amount of chunk to powdery bits for my liking. Just like the texture. As far as the performance i dont really notice much if any difference between it and anything else really.
Matt, please do a proper blind test between the three! I really doubt that you or anyone else could tell the difference between the three (you'd have to break up any big clumps which might make it obvious which one it is). I'm guessing all the supposed differences are placebo. I think it would be super cool to see this!
Nuada exactly. When the sun shines through a gym it’s crazy o see how much particulate is in the air. As a med student - I have to say that finer particulate is definitely a concern for worse for health issues, as if the amount of chalk arrears in the air isn’t bad enough
cant speak about climbing, but the unicorn dust is my favorite for wight lifting. I have tried many brands, and even the liquid chalks and none gave me the sharp bite onto the bar like the fine chalks did.
I started using fine chalk earlier this year with Unicorn Dust. A wonderful friend bought me 2 large bags and it completely turned me to fine chalk. I use it for bouldering, sport and trad. I have since started using Edelweiss which is wonderfully super fine but a lot more affordable. I will definitely try that Seven Sisters as its around the same price as the Edelweiss and I'm very curious lol.
I use "pharmaceutical grade" chalk aswell. From the actual pharmacy tho. This stuff works great for me as a boulderer and comes by the kilo. Storing it buckets and using an outsourced trowel to fill my chalk bag. Also I've just restocked and am back to 45 litre which comes to about 5kg.
Fine chalk is better. It covers more surface area on your skin and will absorb more sweat keeping your skin drier, thus enabling more friction. Chunky chalk requires more labor to work it into the skin and if it isn't properly applied the particles of chalk can actually act as ball bearings and cause you to slip. It's like the difference between a freshly brushed hold with chalk on it, verse a hold with lots of loose chalk sitting on the surface.
In Canada we have a brand called Tembo. It's pretty new still, I'm not sure if it's even well known outside of Ontario, but I love it. It is super fine and you can buy it by the scoop at most local climbing gyms (local to me). They avoid selling it in bags, instead they have large reusable containers that the gyms can get filled.
I agree! They're a company based in BC and their chalk is great. Super fluffy, not too expensive and you can buy it by the onces if your local gym has it. If not, you can always order online. Plus, it supports a nice cause. What's not to like!?
I've used all the friction labs products I like unicorn dust or fine chalk that would blow away in a sock bag and Bam Bam or a cheap block so that you can Crunch and think on the problem at hand.
For bouldering, a chalk bucket is ideal to not waste that excess fine chalk. Not quite as ideal for other areas of climbing or when using small chalk bags when it comes to chalk wastage.
You forgot to mention that you will leave the gnarliest chalk marks ever with that powder. 1/3 will sprinkle down the wall during you chalk up, 1/3 will totally grease up the handhold, 1/3 will dry your hand. With extensive chalking outdoors you ruin the route for the next climbers imho.
When I started climbing, I was sweating and over-gripping over and over, which ended with ripping my calluses. I tried different types of chalk including loose chalk (with and without a chalk ball). First of all, chalk balls are rubbish! Once you're close to getting pumped, specially on a hot and humid day, chalk balls just don't give you enough chalk to dry out your hands. Long story short, I'm more into using semi-loose chalk, not too fine nor too chunky; somewhere in between. At the moment, I'm using POWER CRUNCH chunky chalk made by Petzl, it's cheap and it's good.
At my normal gym they don't allow loose chalk. The chalk ball didn't work so well when I got one, but my reusable one works really well now that it has been worn a lot. I buy what's available or the cheapest. Have not noticed any real difference ever between brands
I've never found any chalk that stays on for an entire send - for me it's all about volume. Chalk is chalk; even the lowest of low end brands will still dry your hands. For me, I get loads of cheap chalk, and boost it with a little bit of the high-end stuff.
Thanks so much for doing this video. I've been trying to find out what the difference is, but everyone always says "it's just personal preference" as if that is supposed to help me make an informed purchasing decision.
I just got a bag of unicorn dust and tried using in my at home climbing setup (big ole garage). That stuff gets in the air like crazy and actually got me to cough! My old Black Diamonds never did that to me. And i agree the feeling of the dust is unreal...its like dipping a hand in flour :)
Seven sisters chalk is definitely delivering. I‘ve had other people use my chalk and they said things like „Wow, this is really good chalk“ etc. You feel a difference, and it holds up better while climbing, too. At least if you put on a thick layer.
Friction Labs chalk is just fluffy words. Pharmaceutical Grade just means it has above 43.5% purity. They don't seem to advertise what % is their chalk, maybe is 99%, maybe is 43.5%. Who knows. Also, what's up with their package, it uses more chemicals than any other brand
Recently had a bad experience with the unicorn friction labs chalk... hands just felt super slimy after applying the chalk and sweating on a route. Definitely prefer other chalks (black diamond white gold has been best so far)
Im using the white gold by BD Ive been using it for a year now and im really happy with the grip... it seams to stay on longer than the other products I've tried so far
You mention super fine chalk"fills in"all the tiny ridges in your hand but that would decrease friction (the reason sandpaper has more friction than glass for example)?
While bouldering to the limit yesterday, I notice that towards the end my finger skin was really damaged and when putting my coarse chalk on it really hurt to squeeze all those tiny rocks. Thats a situation where this super fine chalk might come in quite handy (pun intended).
I am doing something wrong, or I am just too new because I wash the chalk off of my hands that gets on there from the holds. If I don't my hands seem to dry out too much and my skin rips too easily.
You guys need to try Tokyo Power Industry super fine chalk. In Malaysia we have Crux Particle - that has the same base as Tokyo Powder but at less than half the price. Nothing is as fine as these two brands.
I like the way friction labs feels but I have never felt that it makes me a better climber. So I just crumble a bison chalk block into my bag and call it a day.
I use both mate, rougher stuff loose in the bottom with a ball on top. Find for indoors is great for quick drying, shove your hand and squeeze the ball and rummage your fingers in it. and when you fall having the ball keeps the chalk in the bag. Bonus
So you shouldn't use it doing multi pitches, you shouldn't use it to boulder, and you shouldn't use it indoors😂where do you use it on the one single pitch climb? 🤦♂️
I pribbaoy committed a sin by filling my boukdering bag with friction labs bam bam. Then topping up with generic "gym chalk" We'll see if I notice a drop in quality as it dwindles
Why is everyone insisting on the “no fillers, no additives” when it comes to chalk? Is there nothing which can improve magnesium carbonate? Like … I don’t know … small quartz crystals to improve friction?
@@monkeyxpwner my point is there's no meaning to saying pharma grade "chalk". If you specify the chemical (calcium carbonate or CaCO3 or CAS 471-34-1) then perhaps.
Chalk talk are a little too geeky for me, shouldn't be such a big fuss, whatever the price of your chalk once your hands are dried out and covered, you have no excuses
@@trueskyte well. Originally was supposed to be a joke but now I'm wondering what the outcome would actually be. Probably nothing that would last any longer than the effect of just using liquid chalk.
*Cries in $1 metolius chalk block*
Crush it into a chalk bag and boom you have chunky chalk. That's what I do
Luckily for me chalk is one of those "everything works" kind of things. They all dry my extremely sweaty hands effectively. There's never been a moment where I've been like "boy, I wish I had some better chalk". Nah, I grab the cheapest by volume chalk I can find. Usually it's a lot grittier but, it all works.
Gotta, save my money for some nice shoes/re-soles... and rope.... and cams... and... oh hey my money is gone.
All this hype on expensive chalk is just absolute marketing tripe. I've never felt any advantage from using it.
Great comment HappinessFactory
Yeah, this really is a case of extreme diminishing returns.
Don't agree.
I'm not convinced (yet) by that über expensive Friction Labs chalk. But there are definitely HUGE differences between all the chalk brands.
U r lucky. I'm getting sweat like hell and I often find my finger tips skin colour first grip after I chalked them. So on one hand it is marketing but on other some people need other variations to check and pick. It doesn't always have to be most expensive though
I used that 8b+ as my second ever chalk. Everything you’ve said about it is spot on. It does tend to leave your hand very easily. Even on short boulders my hands looked fairly devoid of chalk. However, the undeniable feeling of reaching into your chalk bag and feeling like your hand is coated in clouds is something I’ll keep coming back to. Using white gold rn.
i like unicorn dust. has the right amount of chunk to powdery bits for my liking. Just like the texture. As far as the performance i dont really notice much if any difference between it and anything else really.
Why am I watching this, I'm always dropping my chalk bag.
Matt, please do a proper blind test between the three! I really doubt that you or anyone else could tell the difference between the three (you'd have to break up any big clumps which might make it obvious which one it is). I'm guessing all the supposed differences are placebo. I think it would be super cool to see this!
it's been done, google it
I think the health side will start playing a bigger part in years to come, and might lead to rules on indoor environments first followed by outside.
Vince W I don’t think it should, inhaling chalk is only bad if you snort it.
@@jfs366 you might as well be if your in a gym for hours a week or day
Nuada exactly. When the sun shines through a gym it’s crazy o see how much particulate is in the air. As a med student - I have to say that finer particulate is definitely a concern for worse for health issues, as if the amount of chalk arrears in the air isn’t bad enough
I been to gyms here in Norway that ban powder chalk.
@@ApathyLight true but at least it’s a non issue in the US right now being most states still require masks
cant speak about climbing, but the unicorn dust is my favorite for wight lifting. I have tried many brands, and even the liquid chalks and none gave me the sharp bite onto the bar like the fine chalks did.
Cheap chalk cut with nasty chemicals destroys my skin, especially in the summer months. I switched to unicorn dust and didn't look back!
I started using fine chalk earlier this year with Unicorn Dust. A wonderful friend bought me 2 large bags and it completely turned me to fine chalk. I use it for bouldering, sport and trad. I have since started using Edelweiss which is wonderfully super fine but a lot more affordable. I will definitely try that Seven Sisters as its around the same price as the Edelweiss and I'm very curious lol.
I use "pharmaceutical grade" chalk aswell. From the actual pharmacy tho.
This stuff works great for me as a boulderer and comes by the kilo. Storing it buckets and using an outsourced trowel to fill my chalk bag.
Also I've just restocked and am back to 45 litre which comes to about 5kg.
Thx for pointing out using the fine powder indoors. Found something better here than I came looking for
Fine chalk is better. It covers more surface area on your skin and will absorb more sweat keeping your skin drier, thus enabling more friction. Chunky chalk requires more labor to work it into the skin and if it isn't properly applied the particles of chalk can actually act as ball bearings and cause you to slip. It's like the difference between a freshly brushed hold with chalk on it, verse a hold with lots of loose chalk sitting on the surface.
Friction Labs unicorn had worked perfectly for my swety palms.. Just so gooood stuff, but a bit expensive
In Canada we have a brand called Tembo. It's pretty new still, I'm not sure if it's even well known outside of Ontario, but I love it. It is super fine and you can buy it by the scoop at most local climbing gyms (local to me). They avoid selling it in bags, instead they have large reusable containers that the gyms can get filled.
I'm in Ontario and I still haven't heard of it
I agree! They're a company based in BC and their chalk is great. Super fluffy, not too expensive and you can buy it by the onces if your local gym has it. If not, you can always order online. Plus, it supports a nice cause. What's not to like!?
It hurts my heart when you blow away frictions labs chalk in the in intro
more like "Wallets"
I've used all the friction labs products I like unicorn dust or fine chalk that would blow away in a sock bag and Bam Bam or a cheap block so that you can Crunch and think on the problem at hand.
Seven sister chalk!! Been using it for 2 months now, it’s great.
For bouldering, a chalk bucket is ideal to not waste that excess fine chalk. Not quite as ideal for other areas of climbing or when using small chalk bags when it comes to chalk wastage.
I love Gunpowder by Trango. Super fine and feels like cotton when you put your hand in it
friction labs is amazing the price killed me on it I started mixing it with cheaper chalk.
You forgot to mention that you will leave the gnarliest chalk marks ever with that powder. 1/3 will sprinkle down the wall during you chalk up, 1/3 will totally grease up the handhold, 1/3 will dry your hand. With extensive chalking outdoors you ruin the route for the next climbers imho.
Magnus lost nnn on this video :(
Verbal Wound bruhhh lol
For fine chalk I fill a nylon sock like when you try on shoes to roll around the hand preventing some wasted chalk.
When I started climbing, I was sweating and over-gripping over and over, which ended with ripping my calluses. I tried different types of chalk including loose chalk (with and without a chalk ball). First of all, chalk balls are rubbish! Once you're close to getting pumped, specially on a hot and humid day, chalk balls just don't give you enough chalk to dry out your hands. Long story short, I'm more into using semi-loose chalk, not too fine nor too chunky; somewhere in between. At the moment, I'm using POWER CRUNCH chunky chalk made by Petzl, it's cheap and it's good.
At my normal gym they don't allow loose chalk. The chalk ball didn't work so well when I got one, but my reusable one works really well now that it has been worn a lot.
I buy what's available or the cheapest. Have not noticed any real difference ever between brands
Seems not having too much or too little chalk in the bag makes an appreciable difference.
I've never found any chalk that stays on for an entire send - for me it's all about volume. Chalk is chalk; even the lowest of low end brands will still dry your hands. For me, I get loads of cheap chalk, and boost it with a little bit of the high-end stuff.
I've used Unicorn Dust for years and I love it.
Thanks so much for doing this video. I've been trying to find out what the difference is, but everyone always says "it's just personal preference" as if that is supposed to help me make an informed purchasing decision.
I just got a bag of unicorn dust and tried using in my at home climbing setup (big ole garage). That stuff gets in the air like crazy and actually got me to cough! My old Black Diamonds never did that to me. And i agree the feeling of the dust is unreal...its like dipping a hand in flour :)
Seven sisters chalk is definitely delivering. I‘ve had other people use my chalk and they said things like „Wow, this is really good chalk“ etc. You feel a difference, and it holds up better while climbing, too. At least if you put on a thick layer.
I use super fine chalk with a refillable chalk ball. It's dope. Worth the price when have sweaty hands. Friction lab is just amazing, but pricey af.
I use 8b+ powdered chalk and absolutely love it. I used BD chalk until a vender can and was letting people try it. It immediately won me over.
Wait, we're allowed to use chalk?
When I dip my hands into my unicorn dust chalk the feeling of elation I get is like eating a fine dessert.
Friction Labs chalk is just fluffy words. Pharmaceutical Grade just means it has above 43.5% purity. They don't seem to advertise what % is their chalk, maybe is 99%, maybe is 43.5%. Who knows. Also, what's up with their package, it uses more chemicals than any other brand
Nothing like the black gold. Too dang expensive though
Consider recording a video comparing Black Gold versus super fine chalk's
Recently had a bad experience with the unicorn friction labs chalk... hands just felt super slimy after applying the chalk and sweating on a route. Definitely prefer other chalks (black diamond white gold has been best so far)
"and then someone gave me some and that was the end of it for me" - sounds like he's talking about a drug addiction
It’s all about that Black Diamond Black Gold 👌
I recommend bison chalk 1/2 gallon chalk its been the best I've used give it a try
Im using the white gold by BD
Ive been using it for a year now and im really happy with the grip... it seams to stay on longer than the other products I've tried so far
I truly appreciated the opinion and self experience with chalk. I guess imma just mix gorilla and unicorn dust in one
You mention super fine chalk"fills in"all the tiny ridges in your hand but that would decrease friction (the reason sandpaper has more friction than glass for example)?
Fine chalk probably has a better way of covering the skin in the ridges, unlike crush cut, which can't reach the bottom of them
While bouldering to the limit yesterday, I notice that towards the end my finger skin was really damaged and when putting my coarse chalk on it really hurt to squeeze all those tiny rocks. Thats a situation where this super fine chalk might come in quite handy (pun intended).
I am doing something wrong, or I am just too new because I wash the chalk off of my hands that gets on there from the holds. If I don't my hands seem to dry out too much and my skin rips too easily.
you can buy pharma chalk in 1 kg container for 10 euro.... so what you mean about this?
Where?
@@noahmorris7940 diacleanshop.com/en/magnesium-carbonate-powder-chalk-44
@@noahmorris7940 just search for pharmaceutical magnesium carbonate powder chalk 1 kg ore 2 kg
Exactly lol
You guys need to try Tokyo Power Industry super fine chalk. In Malaysia we have Crux Particle - that has the same base as Tokyo Powder but at less than half the price. Nothing is as fine as these two brands.
I use Unicorn Dust and it's amazing.
I like the way friction labs feels but I have never felt that it makes me a better climber. So I just crumble a bison chalk block into my bag and call it a day.
Once I used super fine chalk, I never went back.
I use Bison Chalk
Yes! Bison is the way to go. Available at REI, super cheap, and feels like baby powder. $11 for a gallon is a no brainer.
Zen Lizard chalk. Look it up. It’s worth it. Great stuff.
Review all of friction labs products please!!
Strongly dislike the amount of plastic packaging used on chalk. Chalk blocks are normally in paper which is probably a lot better imo.
Could you compare this with Black Gold?
Unicorn dust is perfect for me. I hated it for couple days.... thennnn I figured out what it’s good for. Perfect
Do a episode on lose chalk vs chalk ball
I use both mate, rougher stuff loose in the bottom with a ball on top. Find for indoors is great for quick drying, shove your hand and squeeze the ball and rummage your fingers in it. and when you fall having the ball keeps the chalk in the bag. Bonus
I cant understand buying fine chalk. You should buy the chunkiest possible and its gets beat to dust over time
had a friend that gushed over the chalk i had. its basically blocks of cheap chalk for weight lifting. dont buy into the hype yall
Bison comp chalk good fine stuff
So you shouldn't use it doing multi pitches, you shouldn't use it to boulder, and you shouldn't use it indoors😂where do you use it on the one single pitch climb? 🤦♂️
I pribbaoy committed a sin by filling my boukdering bag with friction labs bam bam. Then topping up with generic "gym chalk"
We'll see if I notice a drop in quality as it dwindles
Why is everyone insisting on the “no fillers, no additives” when it comes to chalk? Is there nothing which can improve magnesium carbonate? Like … I don’t know … small quartz crystals to improve friction?
It might be related to heath issues, I thinks it's not such a great thing to inhale quartz crystals...
lol drawn in by "pharma grade" which has literally no meaning.
It does tho. Medicines use chalk as filler often
@@monkeyxpwner my point is there's no meaning to saying pharma grade "chalk". If you specify the chemical (calcium carbonate or CaCO3 or CAS 471-34-1) then perhaps.
I use buffalo ultra fine
Miss the unicorn with the cheap so it last longer
that seven sisters smooth out comment just shows they know nothing about friction! just another package crap up and sell it on. no knowledge as to why
Ep. 1530...
Welcome to the channel
I have super fine chalk and it just clumps together...
Chalk talk are a little too geeky for me, shouldn't be such a big fuss, whatever the price of your chalk once your hands are dried out and covered, you have no excuses
please... keep it away from indoors and save the lungs
This is ridiculous. Chalk is chalk. Use regular block chalk, climb more frequently, and stop making excuses for your own weakness.
Not really buy some expensive chalk and and some cheap one and you will some differance
Nobody is making excuses lmao. It’s just a matter of preference and comfort. Relax.
Just soak your hands in vinegar for an hour before you climb. You will be sporting dry hands that everyone will envy.
I don't know if this is supposed to be a joke or not, but you can use antihydral to keep your hands dry.
@@trueskyte well. Originally was supposed to be a joke but now I'm wondering what the outcome would actually be. Probably nothing that would last any longer than the effect of just using liquid chalk.
what a bunch of nonsense :D
Chalk is for the weak
I Don’t Know But I Do Wonder Why You Have To Write Every First Letter Of Each Word Capitalised.
zuurkool it’s a title you goof
@@rellify3 You Have To Admit It Looks Goofy, Though
@@zendium91 Not When You Are Educated
@@noahmorris7940 When Someone Isn't Educated, Why Would He Notice The Capitalised Letters At All? Your Logic Is Absent.
@@zendium91 Are You Implying Education Would Be Required To Identify Differentiating Characters?
Please language Polski
FrictionLabs is a scam