How Much Does Chalk Actually Help In Climbing?
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- I did a few experiments to figure out how much chalk actually helps in climbing!
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Your stool placement on the second go with chalk on the beastmaker was different. When you hung from the beastmaker the first time, the stool was practically right under you, it was so close you could easily step back onto it when you were done. The second time, with chalk, it was much farther back. Taking your feet off of the stool from that far back was like releasing a toe/heel hook, and it transferred the stored energy and made you start swinging immediately. So chalk or no chalk, the second attempt was going to be worse than the first.
Other than that great video! Interesting attempt to compare chalk to no chalk, and quantify how mucb affect it has. If you were to do this over many days, probably alternating chalk/no chalk, you could get more reliable data due to the increased sample size, and it would help control for some other variables.
I too only recently started using chalk. As I'm progressing into harder grades, with more slopers, slopey crimps, and other bad holds, it really helps give you that bit of extra friction that can be all of the difference in the world between sending and not.
Thanks for pointing it out! I do agree that the stool placement might be the main reason I fell, instead of due to too much chalk. The explanation of it being like releasing a toe/heel hook makes a lot of sense to me!
Actually a really great demo of why you've gotta set up directly below a hangboard to stop the swing. Kept happening on my home board (it hangs from my pullup bar so it swings easily). Can easily cause injury when you're pulling very hard
@@GeekClimber That being said: You do have too much chalk on, or atleast not evenly spread out enough. There is a reason to why people claps their hands/blow on their fingers before going on...
@@GeekClimber Yes, this swinging factor is MUCH more relevant for ALL of your hangs than chalk itself. If the hangboards would be reachable from the ground and you could position yourself perfectly when you start, without any swing, it would boost up all your times significantly. If I have even the smallest swing, it uses up some of my power - I can add at least 20% more time if I do this perfectly, than with even with a slight swing.
@@GeekClimber Maybe next time ask someone to remove it :p
Conclusion: Magdust won't turn you into Magnus Midtbo, but you will climb harder with chalk! 😎
You Geek CLimber should do a collab Miguel!
@@Rmikeyhow Haha we have! Check back a few months on my channel 🤙
😭😭😭 you’re the real one for leaving that accident in the video. I hope you’re ok, that looked very painful. Great video as always keep it up!❤️
and showing it a second time lol
It took me a week to recover from that fall 🤣. On the bright side, the recovery time is way shorter than a finger injury.
@@GeekClimber mate that stool made me so scared, I could see the nightmares of whiplash as soon as I saw it woble, try to get a foam stool. Loved the experiment.
@@GeekClimber i bet the stool was hurt more! :D
@@8Hidan8 I don’t think he meant to swing
I think the advantage of chalk is not limited to grade chasing, but also that you can hold the same hold for the same amount of time with lower intensity
Who the heck climbs without chalk WTF. I understand it for outdoors but this is gym climbing there is chalk everywhere. The air is made of chalk. Touching any hold and your oily hands will suck up the chalk so much. Like are you doing it to save 20 bucks every two months? The chalk prevents the oil and moisture from building up. Do you guys not sweat?
@@RekySai It could be that some people have dry hands and as you say, the residual chalk that's all over the gym may be enough for them. But even so I'd say it's probably best to climb with chalk, even if you use less due to already dry hands.
You should retry this but with max weighted hangs. Where I think chalk helps me the most is at my limit of power, not with mega endurance.
Chalk makes a way bigger difference on plastic and rock than on wood. Also, gym holds have so much chalk already that they actually chalk up your hands (as GeekClimber recognized on his non-chalk test). Also also, too much chalk on your hands WILL make the holds slippery, that’s why pros slap their hands or blow on their fingers.
Finally, GeekClimber’s “cracked” finger tips look super healthy compared to the chewed up skin of the vast majority of climbers, and his stats are crazy high for being a V6 climber.
low key this might just be me bc i live in the south and it’s hot and sweaty down here but i find it low key disrespectful to climb anything above like V4 or 5 without chalk because at that point you’re just packing on grease to a hold that someone else is gonna have to brush off later. and even then grease never fully comes out of a hold so you’re just slowly making the holds worse for everyone else. please climb with chalk, at the very least for etiquette’s sake.
Here's an experiment to try! Calculate the coefficient of friction with chalk and without. Lay your hand palm up. Rest polyurethane block on your palm. (Like an Atomik ninja pinch hold.) Measure how much force it takes to move the block from rest. Compare without and without chalk. Can also compare different chalks (liquid, powder). I'm not sure exactly how to measure coefficient of friction, but it seems right you up your alley. I would love to know the measurements. Also, this is an awesome video!!! The previous video inspired me to use chalk for the first time.
Also, Mani the Monkey has a great video on the beastmaker sloper hold and experimenting with different weights. He hypothesized that a heavier climber generates more friction on the BM sloper and can hang from it easier.
To get actionable information, you do need to be doing this test hanging on the block... otherwise dew point/moisture ramp up from finger exertion, loading/density of force vectors aren't well represented for application in climbing.
@@ahbzjr This is a simple and easily testable scenario to see whether chalk makes it more "sticky", to use Magnus's word. All the difficult-to-control variables, such as muscle fatigue and technique are removed. (To make it even more controlled, you could use a cadaver.) If there isn't a measurable difference in the simplified case, there won't be a difference on the wall.
@@richarddoan9172
Check out these two papers published--consider their procedures and methodology beyond the abstract... :
DOI: 10.1080/026404101300149375
DOI: 10.1080/14763141.2012.724700
the problem with mani's video was that his center of gravity completly changes with the 10kg in front of him. put the weight on his back and the results would change. nonetheless it was a nice try and idea.
This
I think if you continue climbing with chalk for a little while, your skin will adapt somewhat, and you'll build up callouses that work with the dryness.
Also, as other users have mentioned, washing your hands immediately after, and using some surface moisturizer (i.e. ClimbOn) can prevent cracking. A deep moisturizer (like most lotions at the store) will prevent cracking but potentially cause flappers so don't do that.
That was hard watching that fall. Hope you were okay!! Cheers for keeping it in the video!
I normally don't use chaulk but watching this I will try to use it more.
I think brushing vs not brushing makes just as much difference as chalk vs no chalk. You should do a test of that as well.
It makes sense if you consider what you're doing. Brushing means there is more friction on the holds after removing chalk/rubber residue, and using chalk means there is less moisture on your skin to increase friction once again.
The effect of chalk also heavily depends on the conditions. Outdoors, where the rock might not always be 100% dry the difference between with and without is like night and day.
Haha. I love it. Chalk helps. I used chalk and my fingers cracked. I’m now not using chalk. Friggin hilarious. Great vid mate. Keep it up.
Chalk increases your coefficient of friction meaning you need to apply less force to counteract gravity. This is why it helps so much on the small crimp and the pinch. However, this makes it less useful for moves that don't require force like the larger crimp. For higher level climbing, it's simply not possible to generate the force needed without chalk so it is necessary once you pass V8 ish.
I like this dude. Happy vibes and a simple concept.
Apart from drying out your skin, chalk increases the friction between your hand and the holds as there are many tiny "crumbs" of chalk that can grip onto the texture of the holds. That is why a hold fully covered in chalk starts getting slippery again, the texture on the hold is gone and the chalk on your hand cannot be placed into the texture of the hold.
Do you moisturize your hands? It may help make chalk more sustainable. I like to keep a small moisturizer in the office to keep my hands from becoming too dry/flakey.
Maybe already said below: If you can exert longer with chalk on test A you are using up session 'batteries' and test B is therefore perhaps not an equal starting point. Main point: Cool video, thanks for making it!
What you said never crossed my mind, but it's actually also true. Thanks for pointing it out. Very difficult to conduct an experiment that is completely fair, haha.
What a wipeout! You should climb with chalk for a month and see if you get up to v7.
It’s great that you’re acknowledging as many variables that may have possibly affected your tests regarding things such as your mood/thought influence. Goes to show you’re not just blindly doing things.
Re: skin cracking - happens to me too, and I work in healthcare where I have to wash hands all the time and disinfect too, so doubly cracky! But moisturising and skin care for hands can work wonders. It adds time and effort, but mitigates dried out hands
I think the tearing of your skin was due to increased friction supplied by the chalk. The skin on my fingertips wears away if I go very hard on plastic or rock.
It is possible though that your skin was not used to the increased friction it was experiencing and thus why it teared. Given time to adapt to using chalk, I would imagine that you would reap the benefits of the extra friction and your skin would better handle the increased load.
Also if needed use some hand lotion. I do that during some times in the year when the air is dry due skin wear. When climbing a lot even during "moist conditions" I will use hand lotion or climbing specific finger lotion. Avoid doing it the day before a hard project day since it might effect how slippery your fingers are the day after putting it on. Avoid liquid chalk since it contains alcohol and dries out the skin even more. And.. Blow off the excessive chalk before climbing or hanging!
I like your vids but dude... climbing without chalk is so contra productive! Chalk up!!!
This is exactly correct. Hands adapt to the continued use of chalk and they will eventually stop tearing so badly.
I think Magnus actually addresses why your skin can get cracked from chalk/climbing in one of his videos, but chalk effectively removes any moisture from your skin in order to produce more friction. Highly recommend to wash your hands ASAP after climbing to prevent the chalk from further drying out your skin and then rehydrate them with lotion. At least lotion up before you sleep for the night so that your hands will have hours for hydration to set in. The more you do this, the less likely your hands will be cracked from climbing/chalk in the long run. Take care of your hands!
Duuuuuude, I kept shouting at the screen "dude your fall and hit that step stool! Alas it actually happened... maybe safer to keep the stool out in front or to the side? Cool video man
I think there is an optimal amount of chalk - too much can be worse than too little with slopers, this is why we brush the holds. As your hands are on the dry side, using gym holds which are already chalked, you were using chalk already, so maybe your skin just do not need much more, unless you need to use small holds - so with your results, maybe the optimal for you is just to chalk your tips when necessary, not your whole hand.
I am on the other side with really sweaty skin. The most drastic effect for me are slippery, thin pullup bars, I can one hand hang on them 2-3 sec without chalk, and 20 sec with chalk...
Nice test!
Since body position is key on slopers, you can't induce a sving when you start on bad slopers. Standing directly underneath is better, lifting legs from surface.
I really saw that accident coming.
That gym definitely needs to get foam step stools or mats so you can reach the hangboard. Hope you're all good!
Yea pretty stupid having them so high
I think we don’t really have to talk about this one. When it comes to crimps, chalking is just superior. You don’t really need to scientifically prove that once you experienced a wet slip on a crimp. And crimps are everywhere. Not only on „higher level“ (whatever that is) -climbs, you can have pretty bad crimps on a v3 slab. For slopers and bigger holds.. I think it depends on the texture. If the hold is very grippy, it should not make that much of a difference unless you’re sweating like crazy. Means: Granite slopers without chalk will probably work fine. But sandstone slopers without chalk? Oh boy.
Fun fact: The beastmaker slopers are easier without chalk imo when u have the perfect amount of skin moisture, makes the wood a little bit more sticky.
Assuming you switched around granite and sandstone.
Love how you strugged off that nasty fall! I hope you're doing ok and not too sore
bruh, that little ladder for hangboarding just screamed "million dolar baby" to me, instantly i thought wtf, thats dangerous, and you confirmed my suspitions on video! damn, be careful
In my opinion, chalk makes you a better climber because you learn to trust bad handholds way more due to increased an optimally always similar friction on the same hold.
Same as some other comments pointed out... You are able to pull harder with chalk, skin needs to get used to that which takes like 4-8 weeks maybe.
Additionally it dries out your skin therefore you might consider using some hand lotion after climbing. There are also some climbing specific products (im not certain which ones are available in the us).
ouch! that was a nasty fall, always hate seeing stuff like that. Hope you're alright dude👍
You should use Primo Chalk! I have the same problem. My hands are so dry that they will crack and bleed, even without chalk or climbing. I had this issue with regular chalk until I found Primo Chalk. It has a moisturizer component mixed in so it keeps your hands nice and healthy. It was a game changer for me!
i'm confused why the hangboards are up so high in this gym. seems quite dangerous and prevents you from going to your limit due to the risk of a fall. i really prefer if it's in a height such that i can easily reach it while standing, so that returing to the ground requires only a small movement of the legs.
well if you hang you can kick it away to savety. or someone to put it away...
When hanging on slopers, start off further below the hangboard with arms straight down to control your swing from the start.
You took that fall like a boss!
The linear comparison is of course silly. Obviously chalk won't turn a V0 climber into a V5 climber because for lower grades all the holds are really good anyway and you don't need chalk. However at elite level, a V10-V15 improvement can be feasible because then you get super bad holds where even small differences such as chalk start to matter.
Also for test like 20mm hold and the pinch hold the failure point seems fatigue rather than friction so it's not a very good test for chalk effectiveness, especially since it's not very representative of what you do on the wall. You don't just hang from a huge crimp or pinch for a minutes straight. A better test would be how much weight you can lift with a pinch rather that holding for time for example.
You are right! In hindsight, a better test indeed should be about how much weight instead of holding time.
@@GeekClimber you call yourself a geek but you are an idiot
Funnily enough you are describing a physics lab that I did last year. My teacher is an avid climber and loves to mix in climbing things into lessons. We did that pinch experiment and it turns out that I could pinch 55% more weight with chalk than without. It was super interesting since, as a skinny climber, without chalk I came in 2nd in terms of how much weight i could pinch ( a D1 swimmer beat me by 5lb). But with chalk I easily came first in our class about 10lb more than the swimmer.
simple comparison vid! super nice
It's probably not related to the specific holds, but rather that the small advantage helps a lot on the holds where your ability is already on the edge.
Probably your pinch would have a bigger improvement with more weight. That's my theory.
Also the whole V6 climber thing. If you were to climb with chalk while projecting V7s if you then end up succeeding twice? as quickly as without chalk. It doesn't make you 6 grades better immediately, but it might allow you to get 6 grades better much quicker.
I have hyperhidrose so chalk is a necessity if I want my fingers to stick to a hold. But I guess if you have really dry hands, just the residual chalk on holds is enough
You said the sequence was the same and therefore fair. If by adding chalk you can exercise and strain your body longer (up to 50%), is it fair on the next exercise?
Actually people say that the beastmaker slopers are better without chalk, even with slightly wet hands, because the slick wood furfice will absorb the sweat and make it more sticky apparently.
If you decide to use chalk again, I highly recommend hand salve. It will help keep your skin healthy and help prevent against rips and tears.
Amazing crossover
You should remember to moisturise your skin after you chalk up to maintain skin health, and also you may get skin tears and cracks shortterm, but the skin will get stronger over time similary to your grip
I was thinking "wow he cld get seriously hurt putting that stool there" after the first time...my intuition was correct but thankfully you didn't get seriously injured. It doesnt take alot to break your neck or spine. Next time just have someone move the stool or use it to the side of what you hanging on to. With grip implements it makes a huge difference using chalk ive found especially when dealing with metal objects.
7:44 Ouuuuch damn that hurt
What an interesting test! I think you made it as fair as you could without making this a major undertaking that would span multiple days, but I think there's a variable that isn't accounted for in this setup. For the sake of proving a point, let's say you were able to complete the V7 project with chalk. Since you only performed a few moves without the chalk, now you're going to be more fatigued going into every other test. So you may actually perform WORSE with chalk, simply because you did BETTER on the early tests! May or may not be significant, but this, to me, implies if you were doing the exercises totally fresh on individual days, we may see an even more marked improvement with chalk on the later tests.
I think you gave up chalk too fast. Based on the stats in the video, it would probably raise your max grade with one :) Your skin will probably adapt quickly and is not going to tear. Also, if you grow calluses, you can probably scrape them off with sandpaper and apply some hand cream.
By the way, why don't you try the front lever with chalk, I think it can help to hold it.
Important to thoroughly wash the chalk off at the end of the session and then moisturise thoroughly to prevent the cracking issue. You don't want dry hands in general, only when climbing.
Bullshit
this.
Absolutely. In periods when I've been climbing a lot, looking after my skin is as important as any other part of my training and care
Here's what I think - on lower grade problems chalk isn't going to make as much of a difference because the holds are so much better in general and you will likely have much more surface area in contact with the holds - the limiting factor is less likely to be the friction between you hands and the rock/plastic. That being said, even at the lower grades, chalk does make a very significant difference. There's a lot of other technique and strength building tho that will be a bigger limiting factor, but the right amount of chalk will help, especially when you're at your limit.
The big key is as others have noted is that since your climbing in a gym where everyone else is constantly chalking up before every attempt and the air is 1/3 chalk dust and every surface has a light dusting at the least no matter, so you are in fact using chalk every time you climb at the gym. And if you're hands tend to not get very sweaty and perhaps you're climbing more casually, then it's maybe not a big difference between actively chalking up or not. It seemed like you were likely overchalking most of the time as well as you noted with the sloper - you don't want a bunch of loose chalk floating on your hand, that will make it slipperier. You want a layer of chalk to more or less absorb into your skin soaking up any moisture and creating a layer that will slightly protect your skin and also create more friction than your skin would.
Those tears are probably mostly just because you're hands are drier than they are used to being - part of chalks purpose is to dry your hands, so it comes with the territory. But if you wash your hands and put on some lotion after you climb you should be just fine.
If the chalk you're just picking up along the way as you climb is enough then more power to ya! Heck, you're probably doing us all a favor and saving some brushing by cleaning off the holds as you go!
In my personal experience, chalk is best on small crimps and wide slopers, and you benefit vastly more the longer you climb. First climb of the day? I often forget to throw on chalk for the first few routes but do fine because ive memorized my warmup routes quite well and my hands are dry. After i get some sweat built up and move onto different routes, thats when chalk really comes into play. While the palm of my hand doesnt really sweat, the top of my hand does, and after about twenty minutes, my palm is well lubricated and will slip off crimps and slopers pretty instantly, and worse, will make the holds wet, which can ruin any further attempts by me or other people to climb them until they dry. I've noticed though, of possibly greater importance then chalk, is clean holds. Brushing some slopers and crimps is like a night and day difference. If im having trouble with a specific hold, instead of thinking "Im not strong enough, oh well", I like to make sure its brushed nice and clean and then try it again, and more often then not, its an amazing hold that was just caked in layers of chalk gunk! A specific V4 with this weird sloper undercling start comes to mind, I had done it once before and while it was difficult it was definitely doable, I hadn't done it in a few days, and decided to do it again, couldn't for the life of me stay on the start, literally as soon as I moved my weight at all, id just slip right off. I thought I was going crazy cause it was a fraction as hard just a few days ago. Dude saw me struggling, offered me his brush to clean it, I gave it a good bit of elbow grease and enough chalk came off that hold to fill a bag! Sure enough, when I tried again, it was much easier. It's very interesting the role chalk and brushes play in creating the best friction possible, hope you make some more videos covering things like this!
Yup this!! Me and a buddy have this thing where when we struggle with a problem we brush it and then send it right after lol. It’s also a bit baffling that he refuses to use chalk for whatever reason when it’s literally a proven fact chalk helps you climb better and it’s not just for “grade chasing”. Personally I think he is being naive in the video because he doesn’t “climb” with chalk so he doesn’t want to start using it now and back track in that. And his hands cracking, I mean my guy you’ve been climbing with bear hands so they’re going to crack with more friction. But they will heal and get use to that. Anyways this video bothered me haha.
Nah u gotta pull on slowly to the slopers and let your feet drag on the ground to the point where you're hanging without swinging beneath the sloper. Ideally, you just pull up from directly underneath the sloper, but the foot drag trick helps with any error.
I don't mind using a little bit of chalk here and there.... but some people pour their whole chalk bag in their hands, slap em together, and climb up- leaving the holds so caked with chalk you lose the grippiness of the hold!
It's so frustrating. I feel like i use my brush to wipe away the chalk of holds more than i ever actually use chalk.
To me, it is not only a question if you prefer chalk or not.
I honestly find it a bit disrespectful to touch holds/hang boards with sweater fingers, as it ruins the other climbers performance on set problem.
Therefore you should always use a bit of chalk, if only to be respectful to other climbers.
the stool placement was giving me anxiety, please be careful because back injuries are no joke!!
Try the BM2000 slopers with damp hands. It's reported to be easier.
I don’t use chalk that much either. It helps when you need. But it technical reduces friction. It’s just moisture control.
There's a bunch of ways to measure how effective chalk is but I think the methods used were insufficient - as others have said, chalk becomes essential once you get on worse holds, and you want all the friction you can get. The best thing in my opinion would have been to try and hang the smallest edge you can, and do max weighted hangs on the 20mm, then test max weight on pinch, and make sure when using the beastmaker slopers not to swing into the hang.
Slopers are a lot more about technique than crimps (in my opinion!!), you should check out Emil's vid about slopers, the tips there could lead to you hanging the beastmaker 45°!
@Geek Climber
As others have said in the comments. Chalk will dry out your skin a lot. So make sure to wash it off as soon as you are done climbing and then apply a good hand lotion. A good one meaning one that actually has credible ingredients that will moisturize. Not a cheap bogus brand :P Go to your pharmasy to find a good one.
Also the added friction from Chalk will tear on your skin more. It's like when you just start out climbing. Your skin will be weak and un-used to the tearing. You start feeling this burning sensation in the skin and soon have flappers or cracks. So try to keep using chalk but be very careful with cleaning it off and applying moisturizing lotions asap. Your skin will adapt! :)
I was worried about you falling and hitting your back on the stool, given how it was placed, and with the high hang, which tends to force fingers to snap off holds. And then you fell and hit your back. Yikes! Hope there was no long term injury! Cheers, Daniel
You have to use a product called "climb on" after if you don't want jacked up skin. Also, on the beastmaker hang on the second attempt, you placed the stool too far away.
The sandal foot tan lol
Using chalk and moisturising before & after you climb is a great combo
Never ever moisturise before climbing! Greasy fingers will fook up your climbing! Even be careful putting lotions etc on your fingers the day before climbing! (Magnus have a video of this as an example)
On those angled beast maker slopers I find it easier so use less chalk and use my handsweat as an advantage to stick.
My guess was chalk would improve the maximum force you could apply, and not the endurance. I think it would be worth testing those claims and it might be as easy as using a digital spring balance to pull a weight loaded sloper over your flat fingertips as you rest your hand palm up. At the point where the sloper moves from rest, if the force on the spring balance increases when you use chalk, then we'll know that chalk provides greater friction.
Would be interesting if you could create a device to measure the friction. Like a vertical force meter attached to a flat plate with something pressing into your hand at a constant force where you can pull up without using your own force against the plate
I think one varaible might be that since you held on for longer with chalk, it might also have tired you out more than you're used to. Might have affected the outcome of the later excercises.
Great video! Magnus also claims climbing with no shirt make a BIG difference. Could you test shirt vs no shirt in another video?😂😂
The chalk will decrease your grade more at the upper grades as holds are smaller and more friction dependant
also placebo effect are possible.
otherwise same opinion, for easy climbing no real difference but huge difference if its super difficult
Not bring able to hang on a beastmaker hold even for a second is a clear indication of chalk being important.
Since even when I'm super weak and untrained I can hang at least a short while with chalk.
The stool placement was deadly for the chalk attempt, never place it so weirdly, it made you swing so much.
This looks like an interesting experiment
You almost Million Dollar Baby'd yourself when you fell on that stool! 😅
I think this entirely depends on how sweaty your hands actually get. If you are a person with generally dry skin, you can climb with no chalk quite comfortably. If you´re like me, and your hands get sweaty after two or three hard moves, chalk is a must.
Pro tip ,if YOU Spit on your palms YOU will hold the side beastmaker stoper
Pretty interesting. I never did much past the 5.10s and almost all outdoors, so I never used chalk. I always resented the people who use way too much, especially on big or easy holds, and what it does to the aesthetic. On popular routes it takes some of the appeal away for me when every hold is a huge obvious white spot, and it feels more like a gym at that point.
I see why its benefits are needed for some situations though.
the one thing im missing in this video is the benefit of chalk to the gym sustainability, using chalk allows holds to be cleaned easily with a brush whilst just climbing with your skin and everything that might be still on your skin can easily get stuck in the pores of the holds wich at some point can only be cleaned with laborious methods when the wall gets reset
Hey Geek Climber! I don't think it is a fair comparison because without the chalk friction may be failing you before your strength. However with the chalk you achieved better results on the earlier tests which may have used more of your strength.
the v7 test is pretty awful since you struggle with the heel and not with grip
I was thinking "that chair if he falls..." and it happened 😨
How’s your back? That looked gnarly. Glad it wasn’t your head. Maybe step ladder in front of you from now on.🤙🏽
Dude your forearms are insane! Bro they're bigger than my biceps lmaoo
You should do climbing shoes next.
It's too expensive to buy a bunch of climbing shoes and compare them haha.
As a v1-2 climber he can hang longer on 20mm hold than I can on whole hand jugs.
I will now climb the orange V7 without chalk. (Fade to V7 route literally white with chalk)...
yeah but the difference with mangus is that he has the strenght of a v13-v14 strenght so chulk will make a huge difference for him cause he has the strenght for it he just needs to not be sliping
Is there another orange hold youre missing just above your right hand on the project? An interesting video nevertheless
That V7 is a V3 in my gym lol
Crazy how fast ads will make you click off a video you were interested in. Lol
Try taking Biotin supplements daily. I train pull ups very often and few years ago my hands used to rip because they were dry. Now I keep training pull ups but my hands doesn't rip anymore and I'm pretty sure that Biotin has helped me with that
I think you might want to retest by first cleaning the holds. I believe you will see even better results with the chalk.
Ok I’m well passed time, but I would like to emphasize something, I’m probably the 100th to tell you so, but still, it’s itching, I’ve got to scratch.
You didn’t fall because of “to much chalk”. You fell because the stool was 25cm far back the second time and so, when hanging, your feet went forwards in order to align your barycentre with your hand.
And the energy released caused the swing.
Which tells us 3 things :
1 yes, having studied physics definitely shapes anyone into an annoying know it all. That is almost science. It’s certainly worst when he’s also a climbing trainer.
2 use chalk you’ll climb a little harder, especially in lead climbing
3 practice your abs, you’ll climb a lot harder, especially in bouldering. Aside from this purely materialistic and performance oriented, then vain, goal, you’ll stop a little swing easily and avoid bruises.
You should pick difficult boulder problems which you can climb with chalk, and try to climb them without chalk.
I bet 100$ that this is the kind of thing which has a greater effect at elite performance levels. Since the margins of error become smaller and smaller the helpfulness of chalk increases.
@@Jacob0481 I have climbed but Im essentially a novice. Do you think I am incorrect? It just seemed logical to me. Im fairly sure that at my level chalk helps but it is probably not as essentialy as it would be if I was climbing very steep slopers with big technical movements. If you are driving a car going 10 miles an hour then wearing a seatbelt is not going to matter to you as much as if you are going 100 miles an hour. Likewise even with good driving technique a car designed to handle well at high speed will benefit you much more at those speeds.
You know, in general the climbing community is known I think from being quite friendly and inclusive, but you were rather rude in your response to my benign comment. I mean even magnus himself said it. I don't know why my opinion triggered you but I'm only being sincere in what I think. If I am ignorant then please teach me. The intention of the video and channel is education, so feel free to add your two centz right?
@@Jacob0481 lmao smh
Try liquid chalk next
A few drops of liquid chalk for pull-ups 👍👍👍👍
Do you think your beta for the v7 was right? The heel hook looked terrible and I’m sure there’s another way
That's the beta I saw people attempting in the gym. Hard for me to imagine there's another easier beta to bypass that area.
I think if all the holds were cleaned and no chalk were on the holds, I think it’ll be a lot different. I don’t use chalk the past 6 years but times my fingers were so slippery that I end up gripping much harder to stay on the holds and pumping out a lot quicker, especially on slopers and small crimps. I am about v4-v5 bouldering inside, 5.12a/b on sport inside and outside. depends on the gym, one gym I went to, I was able to climb their v8? Idk. Very Subjective.