It’s a true fact climbing does take over your life. To put it into context I’m watching this in the gym after a (rather poor) bouldering session buying my own kit made me feel like I belonged there
Please tell me I'm not the only person to have went climbing once and then bought all the gear😂 love it though, plus having my own gear has came in handy especially with Covid.
The ropes are durable and just like the ones at the gym. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTFxba6lNeHrZaHoY_LXe6ZzmMfaipnwu Caution: I bought the 50 feet ropes and they are long and heavy so make sure you have the space (I do have the space). If I was to do it again I would probably get a shorter version as 50 feet (25 feet each side) is a little long.
Glad someone noted this. We’ve stopped selling nonrefillable chalk balls because not only is the ball wasted but they come wrapped in plastic. We need to do better about this. Wish prana would get into making chalk as they’ve cut far down on packaging waste.
The trick with chalk buckets / boulder bags is to NOT fill them with tons of chalk. They are just as good for chalking up if you only fill the bottom 2-3 cm with chalk, the calk won't get damp after a while and if you knock it over or step on it, it won't spill. If you don't put all that much chalk into it, you can chalk up, toss it on the floor and it will just fold over and "close itself" as far as not spilling chalk on the floor goes. Refilling it every couple of weeks is an absolute non-issue compared to spilling it on the floor, in the changing room or in your bag / backpack.
6:50 have the gyms that want to use chalkballs ever though about that chalk from chalkballs is much finer than loos chalk and this is much more dangerous and aggressive to the human lungs and noses then loose chalk. In my opinion it's very important to get a better air quality in the gyms by opening the windows or installing a better filtering system.
If getting into climbing, if the gym has ropes at all, take a belay class or learn from a friend (generally not allowed inside a gym, but simple anchors in the home work great for top rope teaching, outdoors even better). Many people restrict themselves to bouldering by default due to lack of a rather simple skill. If you learn that skill, you can decide to do a day on the ropes to warm and head to a hard boulder after or feel worked on boulders then decide to get some endurance or cool down and a little more technical dihedral or similar. Or maybe you realize you love rope climbing, or maybe you realize you love bouldering and only belay when being social and a friend asks for a catch. You cannot without learning to belay, and while getting into bouldering at a gym is easier the boulders themselves are not easier nor safer.
Veloce's(veh-lo-chay) are quite soft for a beginners shoe. If they have bad footwork and smear a lot then they'll burn through the rubber. It'd be a waste of money
hyau23 I agree 100%. I am an intermediate climber (V6-7 indoor) and I’ve had the Scarpa Veloce for couple weeks now. Even with half decent footwork I’d be surprised if these lasted another 3 months. Overall, absolutely amazing shoe but do be warned about durability.
Maciek a bit more expensive (75€ on my local shop) is the ocun neon but its lighter and slimmer but still comfortable. I bought it a couple months back and loved it ever since!
Maciek all climbing specific harnesses are rated the same and generally have the same essential feature set. This being said, the Black Diamond Solution is my usual choice for anyone asking me about harnesses. A little more expensive than an entry level harnesses, by about ten euros, but far more comfortable and less bulky plus less hassle to put on. Standard harnesses attempt to pad out the pressure placed on the lower back by load bearing material, but many mid to high level harnesses these days have cut padding and expanded the width of the actual load bearing parts. If you see any of the Arc’teryx harnesses, this will be the most stark example versus anything else. This said, those cost a significant sum more and are only marginally more comfortable than the Solution.
tendon smartlite is the best bang for your buck rope hands down. bought one for my trip to the frankenjura back in june, and performed amazingly. Im not a beginner and that rope is better than some of the more expensive option IMO no Dry treatment, but you wont need it for most cragging. lightweight and durable. I carried it all across Europe and brought it back on the plane! AMAZING value!
Do you not have an official qualification for belaying in the UK? In norway we have something called a leadcard and toprope card that you need in most gyms here. You get the card after a test from the national climbing federation
No in the UK for top roping and lead climbing we just get tested on first registration on knowledge of climbing safety and knot tying. Nine times out of ten a beginner isn't going to rock up with a rope and an ATC to a sport climbing centre.
Yeah literally the same in the UK, as long as the centre knows you have reasonable knowledge they're happy. But you have to acknowledge that you're climbing at your own risk and if you injure yourself it's your fault
This sign up and safety introduction process that you described surprised me a alot, I had to do it in Japan as well, but here in germany and the netherlands there isn’t something like this at all, so as a newbie it‘s kinda hard to get into it without - and you see that very often that people walk under people climbing or climbing at the same time into another route of another climber which is pretty annoying sometimes and kinda dangerous.
Dali Vanwyngarden this is one reason I avoid a major gym in my area during peak hours in particular is lack of awareness and etiquette of many of the climbers there plus poor spacing for fall zones. Being on a great burn but having someone stumble beneath you ruins an attempt fast as I contemplate preserving my body instead of focusing on climbing
I personally dislike absent-minded parents who just brought their kids to so they can steam off some energy at the boulders but not supervising them at all. So the parents are sitting somewhere, talking to each other, while their offspring is endangering a hell of a lot of people.
Karackal my gym has a youth policy needing accompaniment by staff or gym members, and this gives discretion to allow more calm and behaved children to come in and enjoy climbing under supervision or outright reject groups which would be a risk. We tend to react poorly to any indication they want their children to come in and “play”, since the parents are oblivious this is a training ground foremost. When children are sprinting around underfoot, staff need to confront them and whomever they are with.
Don't know about other countries, but in Belgium climbing with an ATC is strongly discouraged by climbing gyms. Therefore it might be better for a beginner and safer to buy an autotuber (Giga Jul, Mammut Smart, BD pilot etc) instead of a dynamic belay device.
Oliver Levine learning on an assisted braking device does not itself encourage bad habits, learning from someone with poor and incomplete habits does. I teach youngsters on grigris, and my groups could transition with ease to a nonassisted tube, with the only additional instruction given being about lowering. Other groups... let us say I spend a significant amount of time correcting habits which other instructors may have been relaxed or oblivious to.
I bought a black diamond harness kit and climbing shoes for about $200 total so $100 each. In the kit i got a harness, chalk bag, belay device, carabiner, and white gold chalk. Can someone tell me what is a good brand or type of gear. I have a practice rope and I know the knots. I just am not sure on what a good rope would be for climbing. Exited to get into the hobby though I have great balance from skating my whole life and my grip strength is good as well from my job.
guys, I was joking... apparently it wasn´t funny. The whole "veganism" concept doesn´t work in our globalized society either way, but that´s just my opinion
5:45 yes yes. why not tell some other site lol. short url is 1990. its 2021 who click to get malware lol. link can go anywhere. you not see it before click. 1 click is enought. i prefer write address where go
@@samh9642 yep. On my first day in the gym my climbing coach said bouldering has the highest injury rate in climbing and I witnessed a dislocated elbow of the fellow climber a couple of weeks later. He jumped off.
For a first rope the Tendon Smartlite is actually terrible, it's really bad out of the box and takes a lot of uses before it stops twisting and looping, very very bad and scary for a beginner
I'm not a beginner, but my Tendon rope worked just fine on the first go. Needed to flake and coil the rope properly before use but that is pretty standard for any climber looking to lead. TBH the "out of the box" feature is kind of gimmicky and hardly ever helps... Just flake and coil the rope, and every rope is going to develop twists before its broken in.
Don’t climb down the bouldering wall. You’ll never learn how to jump properly and you’ll always be afraid to fall. Landing on your legs and then rolling onto your back is perfectly safe. I think that small injuries (from sprained wrists to broken ankles) are much more common in bouldering.
@@Mike-oz4cv actually, we practice it. We practice jumping down, we practice falling consciously. As a group. But I don't jump down when I boulder alone or when I am not in a situation I don't need to. One bursted joint capsule on my left ankle and severed tendons on top are enough for me.
@@Mike-oz4cv it's entirely possible to do both. Down climbing trains endurance and helps with foot technique. I'd say down climb some, jump/fall from some. You get the benefits of both.
Just do both. Hard problem with no decent jugs next to it to assist the down climb? Jump. Simple problem that's easy enough to down climb? Climb. Though really, if you're not falling, you're not trying.
For a first rope the Tendon Smartlite is actually terrible, it's really bad out of the box and takes a lot of uses before it stops twisting and looping, very very bad and scary for a beginner
For a first rope the Tendon Smartlite is actually terrible, it's really bad out of the box and takes a lot of uses before it stops twisting and looping, very very bad and scary for a beginner
It’s a true fact climbing does take over your life. To put it into context I’m watching this in the gym after a (rather poor) bouldering session buying my own kit made me feel like I belonged there
Please tell me I'm not the only person to have went climbing once and then bought all the gear😂 love it though, plus having my own gear has came in handy especially with Covid.
I literally just started climbing and I bought my own equipment after using rental shoes once 😂
@@jdotrizzle8871 How much does it cost you to have them all?
Same
@@feiinc around $400 but this can vary depending on the quality and brand of your gear
@thediabeticbiker It’s been a year, how was your mileage with your gear? Did you keep going?
3 months in. already on my 2nd pair of shoes. im truly addicted. glad i found climbing.
The ropes are durable and just like the ones at the gym. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTFxba6lNeHrZaHoY_LXe6ZzmMfaipnwu Caution: I bought the 50 feet ropes and they are long and heavy so make sure you have the space (I do have the space). If I was to do it again I would probably get a shorter version as 50 feet (25 feet each side) is a little long.
I do like these videos aimed at beginners! Please do more. Us newbies watch you as well! :)
Chalk ball = extra amount of waste... ! Promote the refillable balls instead !
I use a sock for that.
Glad someone noted this. We’ve stopped selling nonrefillable chalk balls because not only is the ball wasted but they come wrapped in plastic. We need to do better about this. Wish prana would get into making chalk as they’ve cut far down on packaging waste.
literally just scrolled down to the comments to write exactly that! so wasteful.
chalk balls are trash anyways. They are legit only good for patting down damp holds lol
@@ianbrannan9608 depends on the brand.
Can you do a video on how to spot clipping errors in lead climbing from a belayers point of view such as backclipping and z clipping
Hey, could we get an updated bouldering crashpad video? :)
The trick with chalk buckets / boulder bags is to NOT fill them with tons of chalk. They are just as good for chalking up if you only fill the bottom 2-3 cm with chalk, the calk won't get damp after a while and if you knock it over or step on it, it won't spill. If you don't put all that much chalk into it, you can chalk up, toss it on the floor and it will just fold over and "close itself" as far as not spilling chalk on the floor goes.
Refilling it every couple of weeks is an absolute non-issue compared to spilling it on the floor, in the changing room or in your bag / backpack.
6:50 have the gyms that want to use chalkballs ever though about that chalk from chalkballs is much finer than loos chalk and this is much more dangerous and aggressive to the human lungs and noses then loose chalk. In my opinion it's very important to get a better air quality in the gyms by opening the windows or installing a better filtering system.
Just started climbing again and this is the 3rd super helpful video I've watched on this channel. Thanks a million. Great stuff to know! 👍✌
Matt's levelled up from Anastazi to Veloss. I gotta give it to the guy.
Those scarpa veloce are going to sell like hot cakes, only been out a few weeks and I’ve already seen LOADS in the wild. Well done Scarpa
If getting into climbing, if the gym has ropes at all, take a belay class or learn from a friend (generally not allowed inside a gym, but simple anchors in the home work great for top rope teaching, outdoors even better). Many people restrict themselves to bouldering by default due to lack of a rather simple skill. If you learn that skill, you can decide to do a day on the ropes to warm and head to a hard boulder after or feel worked on boulders then decide to get some endurance or cool down and a little more technical dihedral or similar. Or maybe you realize you love rope climbing, or maybe you realize you love bouldering and only belay when being social and a friend asks for a catch. You cannot without learning to belay, and while getting into bouldering at a gym is easier the boulders themselves are not easier nor safer.
Hi Matt, could you do a video of bouldering pads. Thank you
Veloce's(veh-lo-chay) are quite soft for a beginners shoe. If they have bad footwork and smear a lot then they'll burn through the rubber. It'd be a waste of money
hyau23 I agree 100%. I am an intermediate climber (V6-7 indoor) and I’ve had the Scarpa Veloce for couple weeks now. Even with half decent footwork I’d be surprised if these lasted another 3 months. Overall, absolutely amazing shoe but do be warned about durability.
which beginner harness would you recommend? ocun twist or bd momentum? or anything else in the same price bracket?
Maciek a bit more expensive (75€ on my local shop) is the ocun neon but its lighter and slimmer but still comfortable. I bought it a couple months back and loved it ever since!
Maciek all climbing specific harnesses are rated the same and generally have the same essential feature set. This being said, the Black Diamond Solution is my usual choice for anyone asking me about harnesses. A little more expensive than an entry level harnesses, by about ten euros, but far more comfortable and less bulky plus less hassle to put on. Standard harnesses attempt to pad out the pressure placed on the lower back by load bearing material, but many mid to high level harnesses these days have cut padding and expanded the width of the actual load bearing parts. If you see any of the Arc’teryx harnesses, this will be the most stark example versus anything else. This said, those cost a significant sum more and are only marginally more comfortable than the Solution.
tendon smartlite is the best bang for your buck rope hands down. bought one for my trip to the frankenjura back in june, and performed amazingly. Im not a beginner and that rope is better than some of the more expensive option IMO no Dry treatment, but you wont need it for most cragging. lightweight and durable. I carried it all across Europe and brought it back on the plane! AMAZING value!
Do you not have an official qualification for belaying in the UK? In norway we have something called a leadcard and toprope card that you need in most gyms here. You get the card after a test from the national climbing federation
No in the UK for top roping and lead climbing we just get tested on first registration on knowledge of climbing safety and knot tying. Nine times out of ten a beginner isn't going to rock up with a rope and an ATC to a sport climbing centre.
Here in Austria you just sign a form to confirm that you are able to belay and take all responsibility.
@@Mike-oz4cv same here in Germany. It´s your own life, and if sth happens because you made a mistake, theg ym does not have to take any responsibility
Yeah literally the same in the UK, as long as the centre knows you have reasonable knowledge they're happy. But you have to acknowledge that you're climbing at your own risk and if you injure yourself it's your fault
Keep up the Great work!
i would recommend the reflex V for beginners. way more fun and easier to use + way more fun for your feet while walking around (;
At 11:13 wasn’t that Magnus gym in Oslo
VoteableCash 954 looks like it, 7:28 is him for sure tho ^^
@@AM-ti1fl Yup! at 11:13 hes at 3rd floor, and 7:28 ground floor - both from Oslo
This sign up and safety introduction process that you described surprised me a alot, I had to do it in Japan as well, but here in germany and the netherlands there isn’t something like this at all, so as a newbie it‘s kinda hard to get into it without - and you see that very often that people walk under people climbing or climbing at the same time into another route of another climber which is pretty annoying sometimes and kinda dangerous.
Dali Vanwyngarden this is one reason I avoid a major gym in my area during peak hours in particular is lack of awareness and etiquette of many of the climbers there plus poor spacing for fall zones. Being on a great burn but having someone stumble beneath you ruins an attempt fast as I contemplate preserving my body instead of focusing on climbing
I personally dislike absent-minded parents who just brought their kids to so they can steam off some energy at the boulders but not supervising them at all. So the parents are sitting somewhere, talking to each other, while their offspring is endangering a hell of a lot of people.
Karackal my gym has a youth policy needing accompaniment by staff or gym members, and this gives discretion to allow more calm and behaved children to come in and enjoy climbing under supervision or outright reject groups which would be a risk. We tend to react poorly to any indication they want their children to come in and “play”, since the parents are oblivious this is a training ground foremost. When children are sprinting around underfoot, staff need to confront them and whomever they are with.
Hey does anyone have an opinion on scarpa veloce vs boreal ninja?
Don't know about other countries, but in Belgium climbing with an ATC is strongly discouraged by climbing gyms. Therefore it might be better for a beginner and safer to buy an autotuber (Giga Jul, Mammut Smart, BD pilot etc) instead of a dynamic belay device.
Everyone should be able to belay with a tube. Learning on an assisted braking device only encourages bad habits.
Oliver Levine learning on an assisted braking device does not itself encourage bad habits, learning from someone with poor and incomplete habits does. I teach youngsters on grigris, and my groups could transition with ease to a nonassisted tube, with the only additional instruction given being about lowering. Other groups... let us say I spend a significant amount of time correcting habits which other instructors may have been relaxed or oblivious to.
I bought a black diamond harness kit and climbing shoes for about $200 total so $100 each. In the kit i got a harness, chalk bag, belay device, carabiner, and white gold chalk. Can someone tell me what is a good brand or type of gear. I have a practice rope and I know the knots. I just am not sure on what a good rope would be for climbing. Exited to get into the hobby though I have great balance from skating my whole life and my grip strength is good as well from my job.
Thank you so much!
I would add that if you don't have the skills then most gyms will have a course to get you up to speed on ropes, falling from a bouldering wall etc.
Nothing says "Leave now" like having floor anchored grigris.
What's wrong with floor anchored grigris?
“It’s called the Toms” hahahaha, toms are a shoe company that obviously did a colab with a climbing company 🤣
I like the sound of those scarpa veloce shoes. Don't suppose they're vegan friendly?
Richard Roberts they actually are
do you wanna eat your shoes?
@Mister K someone here needs to look up the definution of veganism..
@@MisterK9739 He cares if leather and/or other animal products. Scarpa often uses leather but they're moving towards synthetics.
guys, I was joking... apparently it wasn´t funny. The whole "veganism" concept doesn´t work in our globalized society either way, but that´s just my opinion
A tube might not be the best belay device for a beginner though …
„scarpa veLOSS“ oh no
nice vides of Magnus
Chalk balls don‘t chalk enough... loose ohne is better
5:45 yes yes. why not tell some other site lol. short url is 1990. its 2021 who click to get malware lol. link can go anywhere. you not see it before click. 1 click is enought. i prefer write address where go
What's wrong with breathing in chalk?
Bouldering is much more dangerous than rope climbing
Definitely more dangerous than top roping
@@samh9642 yep. On my first day in the gym my climbing coach said bouldering has the highest injury rate in climbing and I witnessed a dislocated elbow of the fellow climber a couple of weeks later. He jumped off.
@@stevey6294 I've had whiplash in my neck from coming off a dyno when I didn't catch it properly while bouldering so I can vouch for that.
Still not as dangerous as rapelling.
For a first rope the Tendon Smartlite is actually terrible, it's really bad out of the box and takes a lot of uses before it stops twisting and looping, very very bad and scary for a beginner
Thomas Clarke what rope do you recommend?
@@lenkabauman9184 look for a rope that says 'ready to climb' or similar on it, BEAL make some very good cheaper ropes they can be good
I'm not a beginner, but my Tendon rope worked just fine on the first go. Needed to flake and coil the rope properly before use but that is pretty standard for any climber looking to lead. TBH the "out of the box" feature is kind of gimmicky and hardly ever helps... Just flake and coil the rope, and every rope is going to develop twists before its broken in.
I spot Magnus
“Misleading” haha
Don’t climb down the bouldering wall. You’ll never learn how to jump properly and you’ll always be afraid to fall. Landing on your legs and then rolling onto your back is perfectly safe.
I think that small injuries (from sprained wrists to broken ankles) are much more common in bouldering.
I think you should make climbing down a habit, AND train to fall properly on a regular basis.
@@maybeageek But how do you train to fall if you climb down all the time?
@@Mike-oz4cv actually, we practice it. We practice jumping down, we practice falling consciously. As a group.
But I don't jump down when I boulder alone or when I am not in a situation I don't need to.
One bursted joint capsule on my left ankle and severed tendons on top are enough for me.
@@Mike-oz4cv it's entirely possible to do both. Down climbing trains endurance and helps with foot technique. I'd say down climb some, jump/fall from some. You get the benefits of both.
Just do both. Hard problem with no decent jugs next to it to assist the down climb? Jump. Simple problem that's easy enough to down climb? Climb.
Though really, if you're not falling, you're not trying.
This is the gumbiest gumby video I've ever gumbied. That said, everybody starts somewhere.
This was just one big advertisement
Well yeah? EpicTV sell gear, they'd like you to buy it, so they're promoting it. That's kind of normal...
3 months in. already on my 2nd pair of shoes. im truly addicted. glad i found climbing.
For a first rope the Tendon Smartlite is actually terrible, it's really bad out of the box and takes a lot of uses before it stops twisting and looping, very very bad and scary for a beginner
For a first rope the Tendon Smartlite is actually terrible, it's really bad out of the box and takes a lot of uses before it stops twisting and looping, very very bad and scary for a beginner