4 Knots Every Climber Should Know | Climbing Daily Ep.991
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2024
- On today's gear show we keep things simple: four climbing knots that every climber should know. We look at how to tie the Re-threaded Figure Of Eight, the Lark's Foot, the Clove Hitch, and the Munter Hitch.
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4 Knots Every Climber Should Know | Climbing Daily Ep.991 
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I love your videos, but in this case I must say I don't quite agree: the Munter Hitch DOESN'T LOCK, it's a brake that requires the belayer's hand constatly on the rope. the work "lock" is somehow misleading IMHO, especially for a beginners
Just revisited this to send to a bouldering friend getting into Sport Climbing. Matt you've gotten soooooo much better at presenting.
That figure 8 was messy af.
When you follow with the second figure 8 you should go left-right-left (or vice versa) of the line that is already there. That will keep the knot properly dressed and nice and strong. You also get a much neater knot that way.
Notice how the top of your figure 8 had two huge loops. These are not tight.
Also helps with getting the knot loose when you fall into it a couple of times.
I agree to always dress knots correctly so you can easily see that they are tied correctly, but stress tests demonstrate that knots end up putting all weight onto a single strand and that’s where they inevitability break.
In Germany most climbers learn to belay with the Munter Hitch. You were wrong when you said it would lock up if the climber fell, it does indeed not lock up. It behaves pretty much like a dynamic tuber.
You may hear some people say an atc will 'lock up' obviously not meaning it fully locks
Thats what he means. It will lock up provided you have a grip on the brake strand.
well ya doing it wrong then buddy
Great video for beginners. Its good with short, useful videos like this.
That's a really good video, thanks Matt.
I learn climbing in France, and then I moved to Canada (Québec), where I had been lectured several time for "twisting" the rethreaded figure eight.
In the climbing gym, they take not chance and ask everyone to make a perfect rethreaded figure eigh knot without twisting the rope. In the fact, it doesn't change de solidity of the knot, but it's easier and faster to check if the knot is well made. So, just for you to know Matt, with a twisted rethreaded figure eight like this, you wouldn't pass the certification in most Québec climbing gym.
Le noeud papillon, is really easy to make and could be usefull to know. As well as the prusik, or "le machard" (semi-directionnel). Also, you could show how to make the cabestan (clove hitch) directly on the carabiner with one hand.
I always tell guests at my climbing gym "Make a guy, give him a tie, and poke him in the eye." Much easier to remember. :)
I asked a guy at the gym to show my friend how to make a figure of 8 since I apparently over complicate things. Later my friend comes to me super stoked and says "I don't know what you tried teaching me but that man who you introduced me to showed me how to make an alien, give him a bowtie and then poke his eye out" coming from a 26 year old guy it was quite funny.
@@Franco_Kellerman we say choke him and poke him
Lol I’m mine we have to say the snow man one “and we give him a carrot nose.” Someone once had a panic attack because of a past traumatic event involving a bad ex poking in the eye. So that phrase is no longer allowed
Changing the camera angle... That is so huge, thank you.
What happened to Brian on the bog? I miss it
I have always known the Stopper knot as a Fisherman's and use 2 Fisheman's back to back to tie 2 ends of a rope together and make prusik loops.
Great video, I like the way you teach. I'm new to this, but this was enough for me to sub.
He does not teach well. There are a lot of errors. Check everything on more serius channels
Yeah our daily climbing video !
Very interesting video!
Using a stopper knot on figure 8 which does not need a stopper knot and not using a stopper knot on clove hitch which does require a stopper knot in many situations.
When you make the sling for your direct it is much better to pull one strand of the sling through your belay loop more than the other so the knot (the weakest part of the sling) is not at the apex of the load. This also makes the anchor point easier to manage.
What about the (double) Bulin knot? I've learned to use it instead of the double eight and everyone I talked to told me it's safer and better than the double eight.
FYI (Military K.I.S.S. Method of the ‘Glove Hitch’ Simplified: Right Over Left, Right over Left, then Left loop over right= Done. Thx good Video!
I _poked the snowman in the eye_ and he hit me with a right cross. Apparently, he wasn't completely dead yet.
Nice video but you should mention that the brake position for the munter is up instead of down. You could then segway into the pinch belay method and maybe convince some climbers to switch to PBUS when using a belay device.
Anyone know where the other video about static slings is?
perfekt video thanks a lot.
Matt, you're a super instructor. Very clear explanations and easy to follow.
You should do more tutorials.
It's not easy to come across someone as good as you on RUclips
awesome video however i would add a super munter at the end because you mentioned the kinking of the rope
I have seen demonstrations of Super Munter Hitch, what are your thoughts on that? Have you used it?
Cheers Mate!
I don’t trust the clove hitch, so I usually use the alpine butterfly or figure 8 on a bite when tying in
Figure 8 was not properly dressed, he went from following from the inside of the 8 to the out side (not staying parallel).
Also never girth hitch just a belay loop! Two reason: one, it's not as redundant as hard points, and two your hard points are meant for rope, cord, and PAS so that the load can be equally distributed across the harness.
Always READ the factory recommendations/ standards for the equipment you use.
Well 1st a figure 8 knot that isn't properly dressed is somewhere near 90-100% as safe as an improperly dressed one, depending on what source you're reading. In some scenarios tying a figure 8 quickly might make you safer than fucking around trying to dress one (rescue scenario, high altitude with mittens, etc). 2nd, a 15kn belay loop with a runner or corlette girthhitched might not perform at full strength, but when used with a personal anchor (no long falls or extreme shock loading) or while rappelling (same again) it's more than strong enough. In a situation where gear or time is limited its perfectly acceptable to girth hitch to the belay loop. My stipulation to that would be not to do that while lead climbing, obviously. But there's no reason to limit yourself with either of those rules.
Follow the manufacturers recommendation. It’s there for a reason. Also, the belay loupe is wrapped multiple times, and is its own back up. It can even tear half way through and still retain its strength.
I thread the rope upwards through the leg loops first on the basis that you are more likely to forget to finish tying the knot than you are to not thread the waist loop. I've done the former several times but NEVER the latter. Done this way the unfinished knot is more likely to fall away as you start to climb.
The vertical life challenge seems quite difficult to participate in if you're in Australia, no places at all in the app
great vid! anchor wasn't equalized, so all weight was on one piece of gear (really not ideal). figure of 8 was poorly dressed as well. but a nice intro to knots!! good work Matt :)
evyn hoon
Agreed. That anchor will not self equalise like that, a running equalising anchor is made differently, and is MUCH SAFER. A basic understanding of weight distribution will show this, and I’m knot (ha ha) typing all that here. The 8 is less of a concern. People get too upset and emotional about “dressing” their 8s, IMHO. It is tied correctly, and will work (tail is excessive in length though - more of an issue, really).
That anchor, however, IS A CONCERN. And not mainly for any of the reasons he mentioned.
"I'm just a bloke on the internet"
How does the app verify your climbs?
i also want to know this.
I thought that you were meant to girth hitch through hard-points, not belay loop?
The belay loop is basically a mini-runner fixed in the hard points, right? So he tied a runner on his runner so he could tie his runner on a runner (anchor)...
Lot's of controversy, maybe it will be covered in another video? ;)
But really, hard points are more redundant in case your belay loop snaps? (gosh, that's a scary thought to begin with... Maybe I'll belay from my hard points next time...)
If you’re tying in, use tie in points. If you’re clipping in, clip into the belay loop. This is current best practice, as I understand it...
Though, a lark’s foot (lark’s head as I know it) will self tighten, and “squeeze” the tie ins together - unlike a trace 8 or bowline. So, maybe a different story?
Nathan Taylor
Weighting a figure eight will pinch your hard points in a very comparable way, so yes, definitely do use your hard points, not your belay loop.
Hard points for ropes (etc.), belay loop for metal hardware.
@@JamieClark long story short, the redundancy is important when you are talking about any textile on textile contact, like a sling contacting tie in points or the belay loop. Nylon on nylon has a lot of friction and is the leading cause of wear and tear on a harness's attachment points. When that nylon on nylon occuse through the leg loop and waist loop, the leg loop will often wear out first due to it taking a larger portion of the weight and wear, and if you have a catastrophic failure of the lower loop, the redundancy of the top loop makes it a trivial catastrophic failure (bet you've never heard that phrase before). But if you're using a girth hitched belay loop, any failure probably results in death. However, if you only ever use hard goods (carabiners) through the belay loop, the friction is not going to cause any significant wear. Factor in that belay loops are often sewn double thick and you've got nothing to worry about.
If you want to read about a real life death of an experienced climber that occurred because he girth hitched his belay loop instead of his, hard points check out rockandice.com/climbing-accidents/todd-skinner-killed-on-leaning-tower-rappel/
Alpine butterfly it can be used as attech yourself to a point that's good way and when u pull above both ends it don't closes
Can you or someone else tell me the name of the cool song playing in the background of this video please?
What's that harness please?
The method of tying the figure 8 is slow and complicated there is a much easy way...... by twisting in the loop ..well done very useful
So many ads in the videos, yet still it's totally worth watching since everything they're selling somehow seems like something I might need..... Damnit
how about the alpine butterfly?
I don't know if this was mentioned yet but the reason the munter hitch flips is not to lock but rather that is how you would lower the climber. If you just catch a fall the hitch most likely wouldn't flip as you showed
Epic shoe
I learned the figure 8 the same way but an alien rather than the snowman lol
Next time make a video on belay stasions
what harness is that
Figure 8 should be threaded bottom to top or is that just preference
The logic of going top down is that if you miss one loop, you miss the leg rope loop but still have the waist one. If you go bottom to top and miss one, it'll be the waist loop missed, which is rated slightly higher than the leg rope loop, and because you're only being held by the leg rope loop you are likely to flip upside down when you weight it. As long as you have both it doesn't matter, but if you're going to be picky about it then definitely go top to bottom. And ALWAYS buddy check! :)
Belay loupe is for metal, hard points are for material. Girth hitches should go through the hard points.
I Love that
you should make that Clove Hitch with one hand.
What about a prusik? So many deaths could have been avoided if they knew how to tie a prusik!
Jamie From ExplosionBig prusik exemples of application would ne nice yeap
There are maybe two many applications with it for a single video.
lefenec just of the top of my head I can think of using a prusik knot for
1) Abseiling as a panic safety.
2) Ascending a rope.
3) moving along a fixed rope.
4) when pulling someone out of a crevasse so they don't slide back after each pull.
And I'm sure there are many more ;)
@Ludix - all the more reason to show how to tie it. Or, at least mention it. People looking at this video (from the title) could be first timers or beginners, and need to know these safety techniques.
(But yes I would also say, they should be under guidance when starting out)...
Just for anyone who doesn't know what a prusik is, it's basically a knot that grabs on to another (straight) rope and doesn't slide while loaded. There are many reasons why you'd want to do this, and in some applications a friction knot like a prusik is required (if the rope you are tying to is loaded) and other times you can just tie an alpine butterfly or something instead. But one of the key features of a prusik (or similar knots) is that it does slide while unloaded. If you clipped into or are standing on an alpine butterfly, it won't slide upward when you get off of it, you have to untie and retie it. Which would get annoying really fast. You can use prusiks as ascenders (one attached to your harness and another as a foot loop, just shift weight to one and push up the other, repeat.) You can also use them for rappelling, it attaches to your harness and stays inactive under your brake hand, but if you let go then it activates and holds the brake. You can use them for any reason that you might want to unload a piece of gear which you are currently loading, shift the load to the prusik somewhere above the loaded gear. Definitely handy to know and can help you stay safe, but not necessarily essential because a lot of times someone will just use a piece of gear (like an ascender) which is specifically made for whatever task the prusik could also accomplish, but more conveniently.
But to be clear, the prusik is super easy to learn and just requires a small rope loop which weighs practically nothing, so not much of an excuse not to have it ready.
my harness only has one loop does it change anything ?
No, some harnesses are made with one loop. Just use that loop for everything. See my comment above for details about how to use a harness that has multiple loops.
the clove hitch is a self tightening knot the only reason it will come off is if it was put on wrong or in the wrong posistion
where are the videos from the experts below?
Perhaps variations of the fisherman :)
Why you don't start to tie your self from the buttom to the top?I climb to 10 years with the seven summiter from Greece for coach and I have learn to tie myself from the buttom to the top!
Interesting your belay is not equalised when you step back to weight it. You should have pulled the sling in the direction of the potential pull before tying the clip in loop. Nice video though.
2:25 it does not matter if it starts from top to bottom or bottom to top.
I love how the demonstration of how to tie a figure of 8 is that it didn't work. If you look closely it doesnt create a figure of 8
It was one, just poorly dressed. Also technical less safe because it had redundancy in having a completely unneeded stopper knot
if you have problems with the Trucker's Hitch: ruclips.net/video/TUHgGK-tImY/видео.html
Nice video for beginners , but I can't believe that u dress that figure 8 in the wrong way
Ok, Im happy I wasnt the only one to see that
I work rope rescue and also climb and I was having a minor stroke
Knots fine, perfectly safe.
I was about to freak out. To think this guy has taught people that dressing the knot like that is ok is even more frightening.
People are implying that his figure of 8 knot is dangerous because its not "dressed" properly. Dressed = looks pretty and in theory, will load evenly. In my experience and every seasoned climber/highliner I've spoke with about the topic, it does not matter if the knot is perfectly dressed as long as its tied correctly. I see perfectly tied Figure 8s load unevenly all the time and there is still no way that it would come untied.
A climber should be able to tie a clove hitch one handed. Oftentimes when you reach a belay you have to hold something to clip yourself into the belay since not all belays are on ledges or flat pieces of rock.
I always knew it as a Larks head rather than Larks foot. Doesn't really matter but people should know if you use it on a tree or tie off a piton, it's not as strong as other knots.
You did a great job explaining these 👌
tieing knots in slings is fine
That double 8 is crossed. It’s safe but it will be a bitch to get out if you’d take a fall on it. Stopper knot on a retraced 8 is completely redundant. Bowline is a different matter though.
Thank you very much for your answer.If your explanations.were in french ,it would be great but I imagine it would be a big work for you.
If you could speak ...three time slower ..( as if you were half asleep or speaking to a child of ..6 ..) soule
be perfect.
What you say is extremely interesting and I feel frustrated,I must say,to understand just a third
of it.
( You must be a fast climber I presume ..
his knots aren't good for any climbing gym in Qc (guessing from your name) so don't even bother with learning what he said...
Mmm not that it’s reaaally a big deal it’s still a safe knot but I was always taught bottom to top on the fig8
There are arguments both ways. Top first may be better if you accidentally tie through only one loop. You're better off if it's the top one that's tied and not the bottom one because there's less chance of flipping upside down in a fall. On the other hand, if you accidentally tie through only one loop, you're far more likely to notice the error if it's the bottom one, making bottom first safer. However, I very frequently tie through only one loop if I'm having a conversation while tying but I have never failed to notice it and I always tie top first.
Figure eight: "If you put in your harness from the bottom you can flip upside down" WTF! NO, the knot's loop is big enough to rotate free. As a guideline, the knot's loop should be about the same size as your belay loop, a little shorter.
That anchor with the clovehitch wasn't equalized
are you supposed to attach your rope to the top and bottom Loops like this guy did or to the one Loop in the center that joins the top and bottom? I've seen videos where it's different not on this channel though
The general rule is that anything flexible (rope, sling, etc) should attach through the top and bottom (waist and leg loops), like he did with the first knot (the figure 8), and he should have done that with the sling (cow tail) as well. This gives you two attachment points in case one breaks. Anything rigid (like a carabiner) should attach to the one loop in the center (the belay loop). A carabiner is only meant to be loaded (stressed, pulled) in two directions, such as between the rope and the belay loop. If you attach a carabiner to a rope and the waist loop and the leg loop, you are pulling in three directions, this is called tri-loading and the theory is that it could damage the carabiner, or, if not using a locking carabiner, one attachment could open the carabiner while the other two are under load. In reality, modern equipment is so strong that it probably doesn't matter, but you might as well do it right when your life is on the line. If you get sloppy, you get hurt.
Boline!!!? or a large clove hitch for an anchor on a tree
You know this is the reason why I love bouldering so much
This is the second video i watch featuring the teachings of this guy, and again, there are mistakes ...
Ummm what were the mistakes in your opinion?
2. Cow's hitch
Dude I am a guide and all I will say is the belay loop is made for metal goods and the tie in points are made for soft goods. Don't teach people to girth hitch to your belay loop, you can avoid the wear you talk about on the belay loop simply by girth hitching to your tie in points. One of the reasons pointed to for Todd Skinners death was his belay loop breaking from over wear from . girth hitching to it. Also the end of the draw with the rubber stopper on it should go to the rope not the bolt.
Wow, I didn´t know legend Todd Skinner has also died. Yeah, I don´t think this guy in the video knows too much about climbing. Never put rope against rope or against sling is one of the very first rules I learned. Hard to believe such a great and experienced climber, Todd, made that mistake. Overconfidence, I guess. The clove hitch is a great knot, but some people got killed for doing it wrong. I prefer a figure 8. It takes a little longer but it´s hard to do it wrong.
girth hitching the belay loop is perfectly fine.
On Todd Skinner's death...
www.dailycamera.com/ci_13066899
I like to poke my snowman eyes once in a while.
I wish I could report this video for being awesome! I have just found out that I have been doing the figure of eight wrong. Thanks a million
nono... he's doing it very wrong. Don't do it his way...
Figure 8 is an alien, and we all know everyone hates aliens. Make an alien's head, choke it's neck, then poke it's eye out.
Bowline
I always thought the munter knot was called an Italian hitch
Me too
I prefer the Ligma knot over the the fig 8
Who would want to poke anyone, much less an innocent snowman in the eye? Or snow person?
lol,lol,lol! just kidding people.
bowline???
Everybodies a critic.
Does anyone think he looks like Armin Vaan Buuren? O_O
For the figure 8 you can make the alien, choke the alien then poke the alien.
Figure of eight?! What!?!?
Song name??
O cara trepo o oito veio, ta louco mano
The actual knot formation is not as clearly demonstrated as it should be for those who are learning, which is the common falts of the video knitters.
No oiro trepado vei
Always secure a clover hitch with something to stop it losening itself by wiggeling!
don't put knots at the apex of the load :/
That was funny and sloppy. The figure-8 could have been much better if you are going to film it. Best practice is to girth hitch the tie in points of the harness. Even thou its unlikley that this would be real problems, it could be better.
tying a knot in a sling justs half its strenght...
European death knot ?
best knot evvah
I'm completely comfortable using hitches by themselves in various situations, but as this appears to be a video geared for novices: Maybe just beat home the fact that in order to make a clove hitch more secure, one can add a double fisherman's knot/safety knot after it. I know it would seem obvious to you, but people looking at this as gospel may just not think about it. And to not come off as "that guy" I'll be completely candid, I don't typically use a safety knot at the end of a hitch or other knots when in non-life safety scenarios. But this is a life safety scenario. Hitches and knots are not the same and shouldn't be glanced over as such. If a figure eight needs one, then a clove hitch should have one as well. Sorry if I'm coming off as that lame overly cautious guy or if I missed the point completely. I just don't like using hitches as knots and a butterfly or in-line figure eight would work great here. I guess I am that lame overly cautious guy, but maybe someone will read this and get something out of it. Didn't mean to write a novel on here. You have good videos, I love your stuff, and obviously subscribe to this channel. Just an idea. Thank you for all the good content.
Does it matter which strand of a clove hitch is weighted?
Derek Warnick
I don't believe so, if you spin it 180 degrees it looks exactly the same, so I assume it's symmetrical from front to back.
This is not the case with a Munter hitch however.
The stopper knot does nothing.
"Annoyingly Kinky" :P
Sorry to be picky but clove hutch and Münster are hitches not knots. Knots are fixed while hitches are adjustable. Also with the girth hitch it should go through both the waist and the leg loops not just the belay loop, that’s pretty common knowledge.
content is good, but the background "music" makes me ill.