I've had about 30 packs through mine on the track, and haven't had too much trouble, but here are the things I've seen so far. One of my rear driveshafts popped out, so I added a bit of nitro fuel tube in the stub axle to hold it just a bit further into the outdrive cup, and reduced the droop just a bit, which seems to have worked so far. Screws on front top plate started to back out, just added lock tite. Screw that holds rear camber link to shock tower backed out completely, just replaced, but with slightly longer screws on both sides as stock seemed really short and a longer one fit...lock tite. Rear inner bearing seized, melted plastic hub, had to replace hub...it happens. Camber, toe, and ride height checks periodically.
Although I'm late to the show, I found this video informative. As of this past Saturday, I'm an owner of new Typhon V5 S6 TLR. So far, I love this car. I bought one of the Typhon Grom's a few month's ago, then sold it when the 3S BLX versions released and bought one of those. Those things are a blast to run, so I just had to buy it's big brother, the 1/8 version. I bought a 4S battery because the hobby shop was out of 3S and 6S Lipos. I'm still going to buy a 6S for just speed runs and playing around. I ordered a 21T pinion which should be here tomorrow, can't wait! This car is really nicely made and seems tough. I like the quality more than the Traxxas Fiesta ST VXL I also own. IMO, Arrma's quality brings Traxxas to shame. Just my personal opinion, plus Arrma MPH is more accurate...My only gripe so far with the Typhon S6 is the confusion as to which Lipos will fit this thing. They say you can use 2 3S or 1 6S battery, but what fits?
Hi there! Glad to hear you are really liking the Typhon - it really is one of the best rcs out there! As for the batteries - there are A LOT of options. I typically run mine on 4S - part due to racing regulations, part due to battery cost, part due to durability. If you want 6S, then yes - either 2x3S or a single 6S will work. Here is a guide to figure out what will work for your buggy: ruclips.net/video/TXZkRZKNHjs/видео.htmlsi=sdW8eaJYKtAGk5DG Note: if you do choose 2x3s, then they MUST be the same identical battery.
Great vid and good info on starting points. Pointing out the tips in the manual that comes with it, and also asking local track drivers for some tips. In my experience most people are willing to take a few to help out new drivers. And most are very knowledgeable about that specific track, and what works or doesn't. Tires, suspension, alignment, ride height, they have all the info! I haven't been able to race mine yet, but can't wait!
I set mine up with Tekin Components to be like a racer, but ultimately just got it to bug around with my son, as I got him the Mojave EXB roller for Christmas… I wanted to keep up with him and be close to his truck in scale so we can run anywhere together at parks and bashing areas around our home here in Germany. Your tips and comments are on point. Thank you for your info and videos!
Top 5 mods for the track ,!!!!! Tires . Softer springs bc stock springs r for 6s battery weight not 4s. Change diff fluid too 10.7.5 front too back . Aluminum chassis braces because the stock ones flex too much .and last cvds in back!!
I really appreciate this video. You speak so intelligently and in terse fashion. Thank you for this! I’m looking for a 1/8 off road buggy now. Anyhow, these tips are fantastic. Thanks for the most excellent tutorial.
Great work on this video. It's a bit advanced for me but great information for someone with a TLR Typhon. What an amazing buggy. Thanks for sharing. 👍👍
I think I’d have to go with a sensored ESC and motor, especially if limited to 4S. The TLR Typhon is next on my list. It’s just gotta have a Castle Creations setup. I put a Castle XLX2 in my Kraton EXB 1:5 several months ago with a Castle 800kV motor and I was immediately hooked on sensored setups and the entire Castle Creations power and experience. I just finished installing a Castle MMX and sensored Rocket Taurus 1950kV with 20t pinion in my Typhon 6S V5 and am currently putting the same setup in my E-Revo 2.0. My Slash 4x4 Platinum is sensored with a Novak Havoc Pro setup. It’s really easy to feel the difference on it. Next up is a Castle MMX 8S and sensored 1650kV motor for my Mojave EXB, replacing the Spektrum 8S setup currently installed (it’s insanely overpowered and an absolute beast).
@@RoadsideRC so, I’m fairly new to RC, started in June of last year. So I don’t have historical knowledge past several months ago however, I have installed 3 Castle ESCs and one motor. All have been fantastic and better than I could have asked for with the exception of one of the two MMX 6S ESCs I installed. It sparked and smoked and was toast. No real big deal though, I filled out the easy Amazon return steps and when I mailed the burnt up ESC my new replacement was shipped (as in same day). 1 in 3 ESCs dead is impressive if you ask me. As I add more, that ratio should grow smaller but even as it stands now it outperforms Traxxas ESCs many times over. Ive had 3 VXL-8S ESCs die and this third one Traxxas refused to replace it. Its a shame because I was finally going to sell it. Then I’ve had 2 VXL-6S ESCs in two E-Revo 2.0s fail and be replaced. Then I’ve had 2 Traxxas 2200kV motors fail and the second one they refused to replace. As far as Hobbywing, I’ve had 2 Hobbywing Max6 ESCs die in one way or another in my XMAXX and am on my third successfully running, but still worse than Castle’s record. Strangely, I’ve never had a Spektrum ESC or motor fail out of at least 5 of each even though they are rebranded Hobbywings. I love their reliability but they feel quite underpowered to me and no sensor so in the end they are replaced anyways. I’ve yet to experience any other manufacturer of ESC really. If there’s something out there better than Castle I’d love to know because I haven’t seen anything that compares to the power, technology, and sensored low speeds. I’d say give them another shot. If you have something that can handle the XLX2, I’m sure it would impress.
Wow! I have been in this for a number of years...and have only fried 1-2 ESCs across all of the vehicles. I wonder what is happening where you are frying so many? It is very unusual.
@@RoadsideRC if it were one specific outcome happening to all or most of the ESCs, I’d blame myself in a heartbeat. I guess I should have said “failures” that bricked the ESCs in one way or another. The one Castle ESC did fry. And one of the Hobbywing Max6 did fry. The others varied. The Traxxas ESCs all had the blinking LEDs indicating “programming error” that the manual states to contact Traxxas for. Those are fully Traxxas fault and it’s fairly common if you dig into the exact issue. The last Traxxas ESC refused to calibrate and I could never get the throttle to work. Started randomly after working for weeks I’d say. I called Traxxas once I had given up and they walked me through several things then said it needs replacing at the end when it wasn’t fixed and they were out of ideas. One Hobbywing ESC fan gave out in days. If that happens within days I won’t settle for a fan replacement, the ESC is faulty at that point in my opinion and I need a new one that has no problems until after it’s broken in. The other Hobbywings plastic case bottom and sides cracked to pieces mounted in the stock ESC location on my XMAXX. I had double sided tape under it but it still gave way. I blame cheap plastic being used with no foam block being provided to mount with. Either a foam block should be included or the ESC case needs to be made of metal (XLX2!). I’ve since solved this on my own by using the M2C ESC mounting plate and chassis brace setup with motor mount. Those upgrades solved several issues I had with the XMAXX, particularly chassis flex causing gears to strip when they changed position and gear mesh. The Spektrum ESC was DOA. Never even turned on, no blinking LEDs, nothing. It came from Amazon Warehouse which is open box or returns, but it’s supposed to be inspected and tested before being sold. I imagine that never happened. It looked brand new so I dunno what went wrong. I think I may have had a bad luck string of events happen sporadically during many many changes. Since June I’ve acquired around 15 RCs, the vast majority are in the 1:5, 1:6, 1:7, 1:8 scale with two 1:10 and a 1:14 and a 1:16 and I wanted to beef them up and make them exactly what I wanted. I bet I’ve spent 2-3 hours a day at least for the last 6 months working on them in some way. The only thing I really really don’t like about Castles ESCs is the power switch. What a piece of garbage. Lol
Your video gave a lot of good info for a newbie like me. I have a question about the center diff. You mentioned you would give a link but I was unable to get the link in the video to work on my phone. Then someone asked this "would you recommend the hot racing center diff or the aftermarket arrma dif?" Would you have a link for those two diffs? Just bought the newer 1/8 TLR Tuned TYPHON 6S 4WD BLX Buggy RTR, Red/Blue, and trying to figure everything out. Thank you
Hi there! Glad the video was helpful. Hot Racing diff: www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=el&merchant_id=4b85b2b7-558e-4304-89fc-54958c8f47f0&website_id=caf4cba5-8e5f-43be-93b7-934f1a36d50d&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amainhobbies.com%2Fhot-racing-arrma-1-8-aluminum-differential-carrier-case-black-hraaon1101%2Fp650248 Arrma diff: www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=el&merchant_id=4b85b2b7-558e-4304-89fc-54958c8f47f0&website_id=caf4cba5-8e5f-43be-93b7-934f1a36d50d&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amainhobbies.com%2Farrma-6s-blx-metal-differential-case-red-ara220050%2Fp982981%23tab-compatibility
Complimenti per i numerosi consigli!! E anche per il video dettagliato!! Io sono un dilettante che ha acquistato un typhon tlr 6s . Per l'esattezza lultimo del genere. Possessore di un erevo e un Max v2 traxxas, volevo spingermi più in là sia in velocità sia in precisione guida . Scegliendo questo buggy....Ma per il momento cazzeggio un po per sterrati e strade normali. Per andare in pista troppi cambiamenti,al momento mi sono svuotato di dinero! Spero di aver scelto giusto Secondo lei? Grazie mille buona giornata 🤚
@@RoadsideRC grazie Ma sinceramente l'ho presa per avere anch'io un modello rc professionale!! Poi se andrò mai in pista non lo so.Anche per i tempi scarsi che ho a disposizione! Chissà comunque sono contento che mi confermate che è il top O quasi.... Anche perché costa un botto!! Per fortuna la sto pagando a rate😜🤚
Watching this car on race track, the only thing I noticed was it looks like rear suspension packs up badly. Possibly due to those rear dogbones needing to be cv axles or just needing more shock,anti squat adjustment. I say start with getting another pair of front cv axles and install them in rear, add 1mm rear ride height until rear packing issue goes away. If ride height doesn't cure rear packing, start removing anti squat.
My first test I learned that this hw setup is so heavy causing it to push so much my first tuning will be adding anti some anti and softer springs in the front. Might start with thicker sway bar though.
@@thatoneguy2756 I was using my test batteries so I could see what it would be like on 4s because I don't have the battery I would be using. I've seen another comment saying how the batteries forward co version makes big batteries not fit so I'd say I'm going to be buying a low center 4s battery.
@@JustKeepLivingFPV yea I only race and 4s is all your allowed on an e buggy. I use a lightweight low cg 4s. Your weight issue is definitely a battery problem if using a heavy 4s or 6s pack.
I used sencored. 1900 hw and a protek servo 3pm futaba , I do use hw max8 Amazon servos but I wanted to make a racer even though we don't have 8th scale tracks . 😆
@@RoadsideRC no I can only run 4s with this system as I bought the sct xerun...esc I originally was going just pair it with a 2050 kv I had but figured I take advantage of it being sencored system,,> I can see the differences in control using this system . Very smooth and controllable
I do love you videos you helped be with the Vortex video you made. I'm getting back into racing after 23 years being out of it. Also some very true statements you said in the video don't goggle or ask forms for correct information. Yes it takes time to get the correct answers for sure. ALSO spares are big must, very true indeed and even the smallest screw missing will stop your day. Just wondering why bother trying to race this one? It cost $419 and just some more money you can get a real race buggy. Also the weight of it I guess is a over 7lbs. My race buggy with battery is well below 7lbs. I guess I'm saying if it came with everything for $419 it would be alright to see if you like racing, but if you do like racing you are out of $419. Thanks for making all the videos and keep them coming. I not trying to put you down you really have great information in your videos.
Thanks for the kind words. Some folks are just hesitant to put that large $$$ to try racing, thinking they might not like it. This gives them the ability to try for less $$$. As long as it is not destroyed, it could be resold for most of the $$$ back.
I agree but it’s not a bad buggy. It drives really well. I have a Tekno et48.2 and I’m building a en48.2. My girlfriend bought it because she loves the body. It was doing just fine at the track today.
@@RoadsideRC Yes, does help. I have mine on the bench plan to do it as 4S only. No tracks in Memphis or any cool RC stops, none so I will bash it on a dirt track we made in the county..no large sends more like CCxRC first run video is my setup. My question electronic I have on hand are similar to v5 Typhon Firma 150/2050kv but I guessed at the 18T pinion to install did not want the stock v5 16T pinion since I was not doing 6S. You put in a 20T...looks like you really like it in your testing. Did you try the 18T or others or 20T was first/final pick? Top end speed is not me goal but quick zippy take-off. Thx
Holy cow, did you say 20 tooth pinion? That’s huge. I have a TLR 8 night E 4.0 and a Tekno EB48 and I can’t run a pinion that big at all or I would be cooking my electronics. I am not too sure what the final gear ratio of your Typhoon is but wow, 20 tooth is pretty big. The biggest pinions I can run are 15 tooth in the TLR and 16 tooth in the Tekno and my motor is right around 160 to 170 degrees on a hot day. I wonder if the Typhoon has a different gear pitch than my cars?
I expect the total final gear ratio through the differentials is different. We continued to tune gearing based on the size of the track and brought it down from 20T, but it did just fine.
Oh nice 👍 I pretty much have always went with the biggest pinion I could get away with and just worried about temperature. This year though I am going to try a different approach, I am going to start 1 tooth less and see where that gets me. As long as I can clear all the jumps, that’s what I am going to shoot for with my pinion size, then I am going to introduce some turbo timing in the ESC for some long straight top speed, I think it’s going to work out good; we’ll see
Oh cool! Thanks for the heads up. I was thinking that there might be a few benefits to a smaller pinion. I figured that I should have more snap when I squeeze the trigger and I also think the motor will stay cooler when I am in the infield and it will only be getting a workout down the long straights
Hey great video! I have a question about the center diff, would you recommend the hot racing center diff or the aftermarket arrma diff? I seen the hot racing used rubber seals but the arrma is more of a gasket, what do you think?
From my experience with this buggy. Check your fluids out of the box. The diffs barely had any fluid in them. I knew something was off when it was diffing out worse than a monster truck on the test drive.
I'm on the fence to get this roller and put a Xr8 G2 & 4274 G3 pro. Would it be a Major upgrade from the regular Max8 or Max8 G2 Combo in your point of View in term of power difference and anything? Tks for any tips!
![Coheed and Cambria - Searching for Tomorrow [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hDsYGLbmadg/mqdefault.jpg)
I've had about 30 packs through mine on the track, and haven't had too much trouble, but here are the things I've seen so far. One of my rear driveshafts popped out, so I added a bit of nitro fuel tube in the stub axle to hold it just a bit further into the outdrive cup, and reduced the droop just a bit, which seems to have worked so far. Screws on front top plate started to back out, just added lock tite. Screw that holds rear camber link to shock tower backed out completely, just replaced, but with slightly longer screws on both sides as stock seemed really short and a longer one fit...lock tite. Rear inner bearing seized, melted plastic hub, had to replace hub...it happens. Camber, toe, and ride height checks periodically.
Great tips! Thank you!
i remmber when i used to race years ago i always kept the base set up of all my offroad cars and i tuned them with my big box of tyres
That is a solid strategy that could certainly work!
@@RoadsideRC o it did my friend, it did
Although I'm late to the show, I found this video informative. As of this past Saturday, I'm an owner of new Typhon V5 S6 TLR. So far, I love this car. I bought one of the Typhon Grom's a few month's ago, then sold it when the 3S BLX versions released and bought one of those. Those things are a blast to run, so I just had to buy it's big brother, the 1/8 version. I bought a 4S battery because the hobby shop was out of 3S and 6S Lipos. I'm still going to buy a 6S for just speed runs and playing around. I ordered a 21T pinion which should be here tomorrow, can't wait! This car is really nicely made and seems tough. I like the quality more than the Traxxas Fiesta ST VXL I also own. IMO, Arrma's quality brings Traxxas to shame. Just my personal opinion, plus Arrma MPH is more accurate...My only gripe so far with the Typhon S6 is the confusion as to which Lipos will fit this thing. They say you can use 2 3S or 1 6S battery, but what fits?
Hi there!
Glad to hear you are really liking the Typhon - it really is one of the best rcs out there!
As for the batteries - there are A LOT of options.
I typically run mine on 4S - part due to racing regulations, part due to battery cost, part due to durability.
If you want 6S, then yes - either 2x3S or a single 6S will work.
Here is a guide to figure out what will work for your buggy:
ruclips.net/video/TXZkRZKNHjs/видео.htmlsi=sdW8eaJYKtAGk5DG
Note: if you do choose 2x3s, then they MUST be the same identical battery.
Great vid and good info on starting points. Pointing out the tips in the manual that comes with it, and also asking local track drivers for some tips. In my experience most people are willing to take a few to help out new drivers. And most are very knowledgeable about that specific track, and what works or doesn't. Tires, suspension, alignment, ride height, they have all the info! I haven't been able to race mine yet, but can't wait!
Good luck when you get to try it!!!
All great points but your 2 best are drive it as is first and ask what tires hook up at your track! Keep up the good work!
Glad you agree!
Thanks for the kind words.
I set mine up with Tekin Components to be like a racer, but ultimately just got it to bug around with my son, as I got him the Mojave EXB roller for Christmas… I wanted to keep up with him and be close to his truck in scale so we can run anywhere together at parks and bashing areas around our home here in Germany. Your tips and comments are on point. Thank you for your info and videos!
Great! I bet it does great with the Tekin stuff in there!
Top 5 mods for the track ,!!!!! Tires . Softer springs bc stock springs r for 6s battery weight not 4s. Change diff fluid too 10.7.5 front too back . Aluminum chassis braces because the stock ones flex too much .and last cvds in back!!
Comment pinned! Good stuff for sure!
Thanks!
I really appreciate this video. You speak so intelligently and in terse fashion. Thank you for this! I’m looking for a 1/8 off road buggy now. Anyhow, these tips are fantastic. Thanks for the most excellent tutorial.
Thank you for the kind words!
Great work on this video. It's a bit advanced for me but great information for someone with a TLR Typhon. What an amazing buggy. Thanks for sharing. 👍👍
Thanks for the kind words!
I think I’d have to go with a sensored ESC and motor, especially if limited to 4S. The TLR Typhon is next on my list. It’s just gotta have a Castle Creations setup.
I put a Castle XLX2 in my Kraton EXB 1:5 several months ago with a Castle 800kV motor and I was immediately hooked on sensored setups and the entire Castle Creations power and experience.
I just finished installing a Castle MMX and sensored Rocket Taurus 1950kV with 20t pinion in my Typhon 6S V5 and am currently putting the same setup in my E-Revo 2.0. My Slash 4x4 Platinum is sensored with a Novak Havoc Pro setup. It’s really easy to feel the difference on it.
Next up is a Castle MMX 8S and sensored 1650kV motor for my Mojave EXB, replacing the Spektrum 8S setup currently installed (it’s insanely overpowered and an absolute beast).
Makes sense for sure!
I have not personally had good luck with Castle products, but I should give them a try again.
@@RoadsideRC so, I’m fairly new to RC, started in June of last year. So I don’t have historical knowledge past several months ago however, I have installed 3 Castle ESCs and one motor. All have been fantastic and better than I could have asked for with the exception of one of the two MMX 6S ESCs I installed. It sparked and smoked and was toast. No real big deal though, I filled out the easy Amazon return steps and when I mailed the burnt up ESC my new replacement was shipped (as in same day).
1 in 3 ESCs dead is impressive if you ask me. As I add more, that ratio should grow smaller but even as it stands now it outperforms Traxxas ESCs many times over. Ive had 3 VXL-8S ESCs die and this third one Traxxas refused to replace it. Its a shame because I was finally going to sell it. Then I’ve had 2 VXL-6S ESCs in two E-Revo 2.0s fail and be replaced. Then I’ve had 2 Traxxas 2200kV motors fail and the second one they refused to replace.
As far as Hobbywing, I’ve had 2 Hobbywing Max6 ESCs die in one way or another in my XMAXX and am on my third successfully running, but still worse than Castle’s record.
Strangely, I’ve never had a Spektrum ESC or motor fail out of at least 5 of each even though they are rebranded Hobbywings. I love their reliability but they feel quite underpowered to me and no sensor so in the end they are replaced anyways.
I’ve yet to experience any other manufacturer of ESC really. If there’s something out there better than Castle I’d love to know because I haven’t seen anything that compares to the power, technology, and sensored low speeds.
I’d say give them another shot. If you have something that can handle the XLX2, I’m sure it would impress.
Wow! I have been in this for a number of years...and have only fried 1-2 ESCs across all of the vehicles.
I wonder what is happening where you are frying so many? It is very unusual.
@@RoadsideRC if it were one specific outcome happening to all or most of the ESCs, I’d blame myself in a heartbeat. I guess I should have said “failures” that bricked the ESCs in one way or another.
The one Castle ESC did fry. And one of the Hobbywing Max6 did fry. The others varied.
The Traxxas ESCs all had the blinking LEDs indicating “programming error” that the manual states to contact Traxxas for. Those are fully Traxxas fault and it’s fairly common if you dig into the exact issue. The last Traxxas ESC refused to calibrate and I could never get the throttle to work. Started randomly after working for weeks I’d say. I called Traxxas once I had given up and they walked me through several things then said it needs replacing at the end when it wasn’t fixed and they were out of ideas.
One Hobbywing ESC fan gave out in days. If that happens within days I won’t settle for a fan replacement, the ESC is faulty at that point in my opinion and I need a new one that has no problems until after it’s broken in. The other Hobbywings plastic case bottom and sides cracked to pieces mounted in the stock ESC location on my XMAXX. I had double sided tape under it but it still gave way. I blame cheap plastic being used with no foam block being provided to mount with. Either a foam block should be included or the ESC case needs to be made of metal (XLX2!). I’ve since solved this on my own by using the M2C ESC mounting plate and chassis brace setup with motor mount. Those upgrades solved several issues I had with the XMAXX, particularly chassis flex causing gears to strip when they changed position and gear mesh.
The Spektrum ESC was DOA. Never even turned on, no blinking LEDs, nothing. It came from Amazon Warehouse which is open box or returns, but it’s supposed to be inspected and tested before being sold. I imagine that never happened. It looked brand new so I dunno what went wrong.
I think I may have had a bad luck string of events happen sporadically during many many changes. Since June I’ve acquired around 15 RCs, the vast majority are in the 1:5, 1:6, 1:7, 1:8 scale with two 1:10 and a 1:14 and a 1:16 and I wanted to beef them up and make them exactly what I wanted. I bet I’ve spent 2-3 hours a day at least for the last 6 months working on them in some way.
The only thing I really really don’t like about Castles ESCs is the power switch. What a piece of garbage. Lol
Great info! I plan to get one for an 8th scale outdoor track near me, but unfortunately it's not going to stop raining until May or June.😞
They are super-fun on track!
Your video gave a lot of good info for a newbie like me. I have a question about the center diff. You mentioned you would give a link but I was unable to get the link in the video to work on my phone.
Then someone asked this "would you recommend the hot racing center diff or the aftermarket arrma dif?"
Would you have a link for those two diffs?
Just bought the newer 1/8 TLR Tuned TYPHON 6S 4WD BLX Buggy RTR, Red/Blue, and trying to figure everything out.
Thank you
Hi there!
Glad the video was helpful.
Hot Racing diff: www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=el&merchant_id=4b85b2b7-558e-4304-89fc-54958c8f47f0&website_id=caf4cba5-8e5f-43be-93b7-934f1a36d50d&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amainhobbies.com%2Fhot-racing-arrma-1-8-aluminum-differential-carrier-case-black-hraaon1101%2Fp650248
Arrma diff: www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=el&merchant_id=4b85b2b7-558e-4304-89fc-54958c8f47f0&website_id=caf4cba5-8e5f-43be-93b7-934f1a36d50d&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amainhobbies.com%2Farrma-6s-blx-metal-differential-case-red-ara220050%2Fp982981%23tab-compatibility
@Roadside RC thank you so much. I'm recently retired and just into the hobby and need all the help I can find.
Really appreciate yours!
Hi I just picked. up the Typhon can you do a toturial on the front wheels settings i.e. steering, camber., toe etc.....
thanks
Thanks for the note. What do you want to know about the settings?
@@RoadsideRC just a how to I guess
Thanks for this video , I really wanted to know about those tires , just ordered them for my rally build for gravel.
Awesome! Bet you will like them.
Complimenti per i numerosi consigli!!
E anche per il video dettagliato!!
Io sono un dilettante che ha acquistato un typhon tlr 6s .
Per l'esattezza lultimo del genere.
Possessore di un erevo e un Max v2 traxxas, volevo spingermi più in là sia in velocità sia in precisione guida . Scegliendo questo buggy....Ma per il momento cazzeggio un po per sterrati e strade normali.
Per andare in pista troppi cambiamenti,al momento mi sono svuotato di dinero!
Spero di aver scelto giusto
Secondo lei?
Grazie mille buona giornata 🤚
Grazie!
Hai scelto un buon veicolo per la pista. L'abbiamo corso. Funziona davvero bene.
Non esitate ad andare in pista. Vai e inizia a praticare!
@@RoadsideRC grazie
Ma sinceramente l'ho presa per avere anch'io un modello rc professionale!!
Poi se andrò mai in pista non lo so.Anche per i tempi scarsi che ho a disposizione!
Chissà comunque sono contento che mi confermate che è il top
O quasi....
Anche perché costa un botto!!
Per fortuna la sto pagando a rate😜🤚
@@claudiomasiero6054 Grande! Spero che ti divertirai.
Watching this car on race track, the only thing I noticed was it looks like rear suspension packs up badly. Possibly due to those rear dogbones needing to be cv axles or just needing more shock,anti squat adjustment. I say start with getting another pair of front cv axles and install them in rear, add 1mm rear ride height until rear packing issue goes away. If ride height doesn't cure rear packing, start removing anti squat.
Thanks for the tip!
My first test I learned that this hw setup is so heavy causing it to push so much my first tuning will be adding anti some anti and softer springs in the front. Might start with thicker sway bar though.
@@JustKeepLivingFPV what battery you use? My max 8 is awesome
@@thatoneguy2756 I was using my test batteries so I could see what it would be like on 4s because I don't have the battery I would be using. I've seen another comment saying how the batteries forward co version makes big batteries not fit so I'd say I'm going to be buying a low center 4s battery.
@@JustKeepLivingFPV yea I only race and 4s is all your allowed on an e buggy. I use a lightweight low cg 4s. Your weight issue is definitely a battery problem if using a heavy 4s or 6s pack.
I used sencored. 1900 hw and a protek servo 3pm futaba , I do use hw max8 Amazon servos but I wanted to make a racer even though we don't have 8th scale tracks . 😆
With that 1900kv, do you run 4S or 6S? Seems like a 6S kv?
@@RoadsideRC no I can only run 4s with this system as I bought the sct xerun...esc I originally was going just pair it with a 2050 kv I had but figured I take advantage of it being sencored system,,> I can see the differences in control using this system . Very smooth and controllable
Great vid
Thank you!
I do love you videos you helped be with the Vortex video you made. I'm getting back into racing after 23 years being out of it. Also some very true statements you said in the video don't goggle or ask forms for correct information. Yes it takes time to get the correct answers for sure. ALSO spares are big must, very true indeed and even the smallest screw missing will stop your day.
Just wondering why bother trying to race this one? It cost $419 and just some more money you can get a real race buggy. Also the weight of it I guess is a over 7lbs. My race buggy with battery is well below 7lbs. I guess I'm saying if it came with everything for $419 it would be alright to see if you like racing, but if you do like racing you are out of $419.
Thanks for making all the videos and keep them coming. I not trying to put you down you really have great information in your videos.
Thanks for the kind words.
Some folks are just hesitant to put that large $$$ to try racing, thinking they might not like it.
This gives them the ability to try for less $$$.
As long as it is not destroyed, it could be resold for most of the $$$ back.
I agree but it’s not a bad buggy. It drives really well. I have a Tekno et48.2 and I’m building a en48.2. My girlfriend bought it because she loves the body. It was doing just fine at the track today.
Useful, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Those were some awesome tips Troy! 👍🏻
Thanks! I hope it helps some folks.
@@RoadsideRC I’m sure it will!
@@RoadsideRC Yes, does help. I have mine on the bench plan to do it as 4S only. No tracks in Memphis or any cool RC stops, none so I will bash it on a dirt track we made in the county..no large sends more like CCxRC first run video is my setup. My question electronic I have on hand are similar to v5 Typhon Firma 150/2050kv but I guessed at the 18T pinion to install did not want the stock v5 16T pinion since I was not doing 6S. You put in a 20T...looks like you really like it in your testing. Did you try the 18T or others or 20T was first/final pick? Top end speed is not me goal but quick zippy take-off. Thx
You will be fine with a 18T for sure. We just had the 20T available, and it was a little too fast.
I bought a Kyosho Inferno RTR as my first 1/8 buggy instead.
Hope it works well for you!
@@RoadsideRC It is. Got a very good deal on it that was cheaper than the TLR Typhon price.
Great show 👏
Thanks!
Holy cow, did you say 20 tooth pinion? That’s huge. I have a TLR 8 night E 4.0 and a Tekno EB48 and I can’t run a pinion that big at all or I would be cooking my electronics. I am not too sure what the final gear ratio of your Typhoon is but wow, 20 tooth is pretty big. The biggest pinions I can run are 15 tooth in the TLR and 16 tooth in the Tekno and my motor is right around 160 to 170 degrees on a hot day. I wonder if the Typhoon has a different gear pitch than my cars?
I expect the total final gear ratio through the differentials is different. We continued to tune gearing based on the size of the track and brought it down from 20T, but it did just fine.
Oh nice 👍 I pretty much have always went with the biggest pinion I could get away with and just worried about temperature. This year though I am going to try a different approach, I am going to start 1 tooth less and see where that gets me. As long as I can clear all the jumps, that’s what I am going to shoot for with my pinion size, then I am going to introduce some turbo timing in the ESC for some long straight top speed, I think it’s going to work out good; we’ll see
@@fuzzfreak1967 Yes! I think that will work well for you.
Stepping down in pinion got us much faster, as we had better control over the car.
Oh cool! Thanks for the heads up. I was thinking that there might be a few benefits to a smaller pinion. I figured that I should have more snap when I squeeze the trigger and I also think the motor will stay cooler when I am in the infield and it will only be getting a workout down the long straights
Good information. Step 10- remove those stickers!
That step is only for one person - THE Rich D RC.
cool video and great information
Thanks!
Hey great video! I have a question about the center diff, would you recommend the hot racing center diff or the aftermarket arrma diff? I seen the hot racing used rubber seals but the arrma is more of a gasket, what do you think?
I think either will work just fine! Go with whichever is easier to get your hands on.
From my experience with this buggy. Check your fluids out of the box. The diffs barely had any fluid in them. I knew something was off when it was diffing out worse than a monster truck on the test drive.
For a race buggy, you are supposed to use very light weight diff fluids.
Good tip!
I went with a 16t pinion for mine. Now i'm not sure if I should have gone with a bigger pinion.
Pinion size all depends on the size of the track you will be on.
Trust me 16 is fine. The more overpowered it is the worse you will drive.
I'm on the fence to get this roller and put a Xr8 G2 & 4274 G3 pro. Would it be a Major upgrade from the regular Max8 or Max8 G2 Combo in your point of View in term of power difference and anything? Tks for any tips!
The setup in this buggy is hard to beat. Not sure if the combo you are talking about would really be better enough to justify the $$$
Just tried to get on the Tlr tuning page and its non existent now. Any ideas?
It is there!
Setup sheets: www.tlracing.com/on/demandware.store/Sites-tlr-us-Site/default/Page-ShowSetupSheets?pid=TLR04012
If it's already tuned...why does it need so much tuning?
It is roller race vehicle - it is rather standard to have to set the vehicle up for your exact needs.
The point of it is that it has much more tuning options for you to play with like a real race 8th buggy does
4S? I thought this was 6S?
The chassis comes as a roller. You can put the electronics of your choice in it.
You will find the rules for 1/8 buggy racing require 4S.
😸✌️
Thanks!