I had one apart just a week ago and wondered why they don't drill and tap three places on the slider ring and use allen screws to hold it in place on the axle. Or as a lot of people pointed out, replace the axle with a one peace axle from a TJ.
Use a Dayton 1 5/8 shaft collar split 2 piece item number 1L707 this will fit the on the splines and can use locktite on the Allen head bolts to keep the shaft collar in place which allows the CAD collar to float. Cost 19.99 Amazon!
The 4wd will still be engaged and disengaged at the transfer case. This just keeps the front axle connected to the differential, so when power from the transfer case goes through the front driveshaft, it always powers the front axle. You don't have to wait for the vacuum engagement on the front axle. On cold days, I've been left stuck in 2wd because the CAD wouldn't engage. So the bypass fixes it.
I'd say that's a pretty economical price for the improvement of having 4x4 when you want it/need it instead of when it's in the mood haha. Thanks for watching and adding the info!
YES! Good comment! The light does stay on all the time because the shifter in the axle is what activates the light. Since mine is locked in all the time, the 4x4 light comes on even though the transfer case is disengaged. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Possible? Yes. Healthy? I wouldn't think so. Forcing front tires to turn at the same speed all the time on hard surfaces and at high speeds is not going to end well for the front axle. Lockers and pavement don't usually go well together. I would not do it for a daily.
I didn't pop the diff cover loose. I think I had the passenger side tire jacked up to keep the oil over in the differential. I lost very little in this quick fix, but also topped it off. There is a plug on the CAD cover.
No issues at all, and I've had it to 55 or 60 mph. Not up to 70 yet, but keep in mind, the same axle on the later XJs had a solid axle that spins the driveshaft all the time. At least mine did. The only disconnect is the transfer case. I'm hoping it keeps working fine like it is now.
@@FabbedFun please keep me updated when you do hit 70-75mph I'd greatly appreciate it brotha, I drive 3 hours one way once a month to visit the ol lady's family out of state as well as drive all over our state for work, just want to make sure I can get 4x4 back working before this Michigan winter hits and so we don't get stuck hours away from home with something broken or rips it's self apart haha. I've also referred your channel to about 20 of my close jeep friends so hopefully you should be getting some new subs here soon!
@@sgtsteve92 Thanks! I do a lot more topics than the Jeep but I appreciate it. I hope your friends like dad humor and budget homestead jobs. Thanks again for watching and commenting!
@@sgtsteve92 I did this to my 95 to and drive 100 hwy miles a day and go 60 to 70 and no vibration or problems gas mileage difference isn’t that noticeable either
Thanks for watching! I always heard the best fix is a Dana 60 swap haha! I didn't price the one piece axle shaft, but I assumed it would be higher than a few bolts for a short term fix. We don't really wheel the Jeep. Yet.
@@FabbedFun depends on type of wheeling you do. No mountains until you get into eastern Ind. Or down South. I used to drive truck your way. You can always upgrade to chromoly axles in the 30. Costs for 60s has gone way up. You might look for the rubicon 44s . (TJ) The 35 in the back is not very good. I have 60s in my 93, very expensive, but have lasted a long time.
@@FabbedFun ARBs with 37s. 4.88 gears, still street legal with a safety margin. Have to make some room in back, but can go to 40s. Lots of mods, YJs just keep growing. All depends on driving conditions and style. Do you want to stay street legal or tow on a trailer?
I own a bone stock '79 Toyota FJ40, and I always laugh at my fellow Jeep drivers when we go off-roading! .. These YJs, TJs ... etc are built from cardboards! .. almost everything is prone to breaking, bending, jamming ... just name it! .. while my old FJ40 has beefie tranny, TC, axles, chassis .. just about everything is beefier than even a 2021 Jeep!
I'm not impressed by Jeep's ruggedness for doing hard work or severe abuse off road. I think they build them as inexpensive as possible to market and sell as "off road" capable but mainly streetable vehicles -- grocery getters that can sling a little mud or handle a trail through the woods. Relatively low horsepower, low weight, and stock tires... a Jeep isn't bad. Add weight, more power, more traction, bigger tires, and/or tough terrain, I have no doubt something will break eventually. That being said, I like the way they look, I didn't add a lot of power, weight, huge tires, or harsh abuse, so I'm very happy with the Jeep we own. Thanks for watching!
I honestly disagree with both your comments Jeep’s are very reliable and are amazing off-road vehicles what causes people to have negative experiences sometimes with jeeps is the fact that people don’t take care of there rigs and then when it breaks they complain and say oh jeeps aren’t reliable. Or when they upgrade they or lift there Jeep and do a half job and then have issues off-roading. WE MAKE THEM UNRELIABLE. With that being said when you buy an older vehicle like a yj or tj or any vehicle for that matter and they’re been abused or neglected of maintaince expect to be doing some wrench work. Don’t tell me Toyota or fords are better and say your bone stock vehicle is so much better because I guarantee they have issues or flaws. No off-road vehicle is perfect. And I’m curious how does it engage 4wd now without it and does it make it better now? In my yj I still have it and have zero issues?
@@Desertrat35 Yeah, I think each person gets personal experiences and assumes they are the same everywhere and at every time. I can't argue with personal experiences. However, I like Jeep's products historically speaking.
Not that I've noticed. In most of the XJ Cherokees and some later Wranglers (from what I've been told), they made this a solid connection anway. Many trucks without lockout hubs just get disconnected at the transfer case. The front wheels still free spin, but one wheel will transfer spinning to the ring and pinion, the front axle yoke, and the front drive shaft. Some say that causes premature wear on components, but I have two responses to that: 1. The rear axle spins all the time and doesn't typically fail under normal use. 2. My Jeep sees maybe 1000 miles per year at best while it waits for my teenage daughter to take ownership/drive. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@starrvalley12 My next oldest (second of SIX) wants to do an Ecto 1 tribute car/SUV for his first vehicle. I guess I'm going to nerd out on each kid's first car lol.
Wish i’d known this axle hack when i had my YJ. Had to replace vacuum lines several times. Keep up the great videos.
There's more than one way to tackle this job... the video is just how I did it with parts around the barn. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I like your illustration there.
I had one apart just a week ago and wondered why they don't drill and tap three places on the slider ring and use allen screws to hold it in place on the axle. Or as a lot of people pointed out, replace the axle with a one peace axle from a TJ.
Yes, it should have never been a two piece. There aren't enough benefits to engineer it this way to begin with.
Use a Dayton 1 5/8 shaft collar split 2 piece item number 1L707 this will fit the on the splines and can use locktite on the Allen head bolts to keep the shaft collar in place which allows the CAD collar to float. Cost 19.99 Amazon!
Nice! I don't have the Jeep anymore but that sounds like it would work really well!
Intentaré este remedio, pero he estado checando que poniéndole un eje de cherokee 97 en adelante también funciona bien
New to the yj world. So after doing this mod will it be in 4wd all the time or can I still engage it with the 4wd shifter?
The 4wd will still be engaged and disengaged at the transfer case. This just keeps the front axle connected to the differential, so when power from the transfer case goes through the front driveshaft, it always powers the front axle. You don't have to wait for the vacuum engagement on the front axle. On cold days, I've been left stuck in 2wd because the CAD wouldn't engage. So the bypass fixes it.
Sweet. That’s my first thing I’m gonna do
You can just slide the fork over and use the c clip to hold it in the place
I assumed there were multiple ways to accomplish this fix. Thanks for info!
They do make a kit for this $70, it also works your 4wd light.
I'd say that's a pretty economical price for the improvement of having 4x4 when you want it/need it instead of when it's in the mood haha. Thanks for watching and adding the info!
I installed a cable actuator on mine haven’t had a problem since.
Custom or homemade? I've seen some aftermarket cable systems, but wanted to try a total bypass.
My cable actuator is not sliding the fork over far enough to engage
@@thejengels8455 make sure the fork is not installed backwards. The fork is offset to one side and if it is on backwards it will not engage.
Just wondering does ur 4x4 light stay on even if it’s not engaged ?? With this modification done??
YES! Good comment! The light does stay on all the time because the shifter in the axle is what activates the light. Since mine is locked in all the time, the 4x4 light comes on even though the transfer case is disengaged. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Jackstands. Airtools. Less helium.
There's a concrete block under the tire and back wheel chocked.
We do need more jackstands, though...
is it possible to do the CAD delete and run front lockers as a daily ride?
Possible? Yes. Healthy? I wouldn't think so. Forcing front tires to turn at the same speed all the time on hard surfaces and at high speeds is not going to end well for the front axle. Lockers and pavement don't usually go well together. I would not do it for a daily.
Did you not add the seal on the pumpkin side? Also a great time to swap to tj axel shafts.
I didn't pop the diff cover loose. I think I had the passenger side tire jacked up to keep the oil over in the differential. I lost very little in this quick fix, but also topped it off. There is a plug on the CAD cover.
Any driveline vibrations or having to get the front driveshaft balanced?
No issues at all, and I've had it to 55 or 60 mph. Not up to 70 yet, but keep in mind, the same axle on the later XJs had a solid axle that spins the driveshaft all the time. At least mine did. The only disconnect is the transfer case. I'm hoping it keeps working fine like it is now.
@@FabbedFun please keep me updated when you do hit 70-75mph I'd greatly appreciate it brotha, I drive 3 hours one way once a month to visit the ol lady's family out of state as well as drive all over our state for work, just want to make sure I can get 4x4 back working before this Michigan winter hits and so we don't get stuck hours away from home with something broken or rips it's self apart haha. I've also referred your channel to about 20 of my close jeep friends so hopefully you should be getting some new subs here soon!
@@sgtsteve92 Thanks! I do a lot more topics than the Jeep but I appreciate it. I hope your friends like dad humor and budget homestead jobs. Thanks again for watching and commenting!
@@FabbedFun were all father's and hillbillies with jeeps and live in the sticks so your channel is right up our alley!
@@sgtsteve92 I did this to my 95 to and drive 100 hwy miles a day and go 60 to 70 and no vibration or problems gas mileage difference isn’t that noticeable either
Best fix is to get one piece axle and ranger freewheeling hubs. Cost you more, but saves gas and gets rid of failure risks.
Thanks for watching! I always heard the best fix is a Dana 60 swap haha! I didn't price the one piece axle shaft, but I assumed it would be higher than a few bolts for a short term fix. We don't really wheel the Jeep. Yet.
@@FabbedFun depends on type of wheeling you do. No mountains until you get into eastern Ind. Or down South. I used to drive truck your way. You can always upgrade to chromoly axles in the 30. Costs for 60s has gone way up. You might look for the rubicon 44s . (TJ) The 35 in the back is not very good. I have 60s in my 93, very expensive, but have lasted a long time.
@@FabbedFun also, 60s are very heavy. There goes your fuel mileage.
@@wesbarcus3761 What size tires you rollin on the 60s? Lockers?
@@FabbedFun ARBs with 37s. 4.88 gears, still street legal with a safety margin. Have to make some room in back, but can go to 40s. Lots of mods, YJs just keep growing. All depends on driving conditions and style. Do you want to stay street legal or tow on a trailer?
I wish mine came apart that cleanly. I broke three of the four bolts. 😑
OUCH! Did you use a bolt extractor/EZ out?
I did this and now something is binding. I am so fucked.
I own a bone stock '79 Toyota FJ40, and I always laugh at my fellow Jeep drivers when we go off-roading! .. These YJs, TJs ... etc are built from cardboards! .. almost everything is prone to breaking, bending, jamming ... just name it! .. while my old FJ40 has beefie tranny, TC, axles, chassis .. just about everything is beefier than even a 2021 Jeep!
I'm not impressed by Jeep's ruggedness for doing hard work or severe abuse off road. I think they build them as inexpensive as possible to market and sell as "off road" capable but mainly streetable vehicles -- grocery getters that can sling a little mud or handle a trail through the woods. Relatively low horsepower, low weight, and stock tires... a Jeep isn't bad. Add weight, more power, more traction, bigger tires, and/or tough terrain, I have no doubt something will break eventually. That being said, I like the way they look, I didn't add a lot of power, weight, huge tires, or harsh abuse, so I'm very happy with the Jeep we own. Thanks for watching!
I honestly disagree with both your comments Jeep’s are very reliable and are amazing off-road vehicles what causes people to have negative experiences sometimes with jeeps is the fact that people don’t take care of there rigs and then when it breaks they complain and say oh jeeps aren’t reliable. Or when they upgrade they or lift there Jeep and do a half job and then have issues off-roading. WE MAKE THEM UNRELIABLE. With that being said when you buy an older vehicle like a yj or tj or any vehicle for that matter and they’re been abused or neglected of maintaince expect to be doing some wrench work. Don’t tell me Toyota or fords are better and say your bone stock vehicle is so much better because I guarantee they have issues or flaws. No off-road vehicle is perfect.
And I’m curious how does it engage 4wd now without it and does it make it better now? In my yj I still have it and have zero issues?
@@Desertrat35 Yeah, I think each person gets personal experiences and assumes they are the same everywhere and at every time. I can't argue with personal experiences. However, I like Jeep's products historically speaking.
Is there any effect with having the front axle always connected, like highway driving turning sharp.
Not that I've noticed. In most of the XJ Cherokees and some later Wranglers (from what I've been told), they made this a solid connection anway. Many trucks without lockout hubs just get disconnected at the transfer case. The front wheels still free spin, but one wheel will transfer spinning to the ring and pinion, the front axle yoke, and the front drive shaft. Some say that causes premature wear on components, but I have two responses to that: 1. The rear axle spins all the time and doesn't typically fail under normal use. 2. My Jeep sees maybe 1000 miles per year at best while it waits for my teenage daughter to take ownership/drive. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@FabbedFun , thanks, that's funny, my 87 yj maybe Sees 1000 miles a year also, waiting for my daughter to take ownership,
@@starrvalley12 My next oldest (second of SIX) wants to do an Ecto 1 tribute car/SUV for his first vehicle. I guess I'm going to nerd out on each kid's first car lol.
No, it's an open diff.