Jeep Wrangler Vacuum Line Delete and Front Axle Disconnect Removal: Project Rusty Junk YJ
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- Опубликовано: 22 окт 2024
- This time at the Quick Speed Shop I'm ripping out the bane of existence of most engines designed in the 1980s...vacuum lines! AMC used a lot of them and this 1990 Wrangler is no different. I'm going to rip 90% of the vacuum lines out from under the hood. This includes CTO switch, EGR, 4WD, and a ton of other lines. Also tuning the Motorcraft 2BBL and locking in the front axle disconnect. Check it out!
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#jeep #wrangler #yj
I watch a video before this one on replacing the big bolt so it hold the fork over. Then watched your video for quick fix took me 30 minutes thanks. Now my front is always ready to rock.
Holy Vacuum Hose removal time!! Good idea ~~~~ Sounds good!
Crazy what cracked rubber can do. can't wait to see it in action
I agree get rid of all that additional vacuum lines and junk, I can't wait to see you playing in the dirt and mud with her. Thank you for this video. Have a great holiday weekend
Look up the nutter bypass. It should help the idle
What’s that ?
Did you keep the carbon canister connected ?
The carbon canister has nothing to do with the axle disconnect. Also, this video is several years old. I don't even have that Jeep anymore to look at it and see if the canister is there or not.
Do you need to refill the gear oil in the front axle connection after permanently engaging if or do you not refill it? Thanks for time😊
I don't think any oil came out, but I don't remember, it was several years ago. Never hurts to check the diff level no matter if you do this or not just to make sure it's full.
Thanks for the videos! I've just deleted the CAD myself..Did you do anything on the transfer case to cover the connection left open by pulling the vacuum lines off it? Also, I have a vacuum line coming from the firewall (I believe this is for HVAC actuation) that was somehow cobbled in with the CAD system, should I just run this to vacuum off the carb? Thanks again!
I didn't cover the connections. I'm not sure what line you're talking about on the firewall. It might be for the heater bypass valve. I sold my Jeep last spring so I don't even have it to reference.
@@QuickSpeedShop Thanks so much for replying! I was unsure about taking out that connection due to contamination to the system or causing a vacuum leak. I have very few vacuum lines after cad delete and nutter so I wasn't sure. Appears that line I'm wondering about actuates the hvac doors.. We'll get her figured out. Again, much appreciated!!
After dumping the ger oil in the front drive shaft, does more oil need to be put in or can it be left empty? Tanks for any help
Did you just unplug the ones on the transfer case or plug those off
I unplugged them.
Ok I cut lines plugged with screws and put it back on
i just picked up an 82. I started tuning it up with cap, rotor, etc and noticed massive vac lines everywhere. Someone told me all i needed was the Dist and the PVC and that's it.
I started removing some that I know arent working and cappin them off. But, now I got either a super fast idle or i turn it down and it dies. What do you think I should do with this.
On the main roads it run perfectly. Just the dang idle.
What you are describing is a vacuum leak. You must have an open port or crack in a line somewhere. Any lines you removed need to be plugged or capped. You could also have a leak at the carb base plate, intake manifold gasket, brake booster or anywhere else there is a vacuum source. Your PCV should hook to the large fitting at the back of the carb and the vacuum advance for the distributor goes to the port thar sticks out of the middle of the passenger side of the carb.
@@QuickSpeedShop Hey thanks for the reply so quick. That's what I been saying from the beginning, 'it's a vacuum leak. But, I capped everything I pulled off. and checked and there's no other open ports. It's got manual
brakes, so no line there. The Distributor vac is hooked up right. The PVC is
connected to the breather, which I don't see how it could make any difference anyway. So far, I got it to idle fairly good. It spits and spudders, but, at least it idles now. Going down the road she runs strong, no misses.
I'm close to smoothing it out. I put new cap, rotor, now new plugs, filters,
gas and air. Thanks again bro
Hey bro, you mentioned connecting the PVC to a large fitting on the carb. Can you actually do that or is that a typo? I've always had every PCV valve connected to the breathers in my experience. I figured maybe there's another little trick I missed or something?
The PCV valve needs a constant manifold vacuum source to work. That's either the large port on the back of the BBD. You could also use a fitting plumbed into the intake like on a V8. A valve cover breather is different from the PCV valve.
What vacuum line are left… absolute necessity.
Yes.
@@QuickSpeedShop and what lines are those that are nesesity ?
Brake booster , pcv, distributor, anything else ?
I need to guy mine
Gut
That's about it.
Great video but I’m having problem with my jeep because it’s losing battery power and there’s a bunch of wires that are just hanging around everywhere I’m wondering if I could be a problem or not
Yes. If there wiring is a mess there is definitely a chance you could have a voltage drain
@@QuickSpeedShop explain a little more please
If the wiring is all butchered and a rats nest hanging every where then there is a good chance that is your problem. Bare wires could be going to ground making a drain, components could not be grounded making a drain, the charging circuit could not be hooked up correctly making a drain. You need to fix the wiring first.
@@QuickSpeedShopthank you so much this helps a lot 🙏🙏
What is thy speaker by the horn ? Mine has that too.
It was some aftermarket alarm system
Wow, how do you know how to do all this.
I just make it up as I go mostly. 👍
@@QuickSpeedShop "I calls em like I sees em"
I have an 87 yj 4.2 deleted the computer and ignition module, went direct from ignition to distributor, also have a Webber 38/38 carb and a HEI distributor, I use a vacume gauge for best idle.......like what you did with the actuator.....happy trail's
I have a 1991 yj, is there a way for me to do what you did and get rid of the computer? Would I have to put an older motor in it?
If it's fuel injected you need the computer if it has a carburetor yes you can do what I did.
Thanks Joe!
I have a newly acquired 1990 yj . Is there a computer ???
@@bob4003 if you have fuel injection yes you have a ECM ( computer) engine control module. This sends signal to injectors, sensors, distributor, you cannot delete it.
I have a 1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ and love seeing what you do to yours! I’m only 16 so it’s awesome to see the awesome stuff you make! I’ve wanted a front stinger for a while now and would love to see you make one!! And I think it would awesome to see if you could make a a custom built poison spyder rear stinger bumper because they don’t make them for the older jeeps but think they look absolutely awesome
Thanks for watching! This has been a fun little side project. I just finished the rear bumper and frame repair. Video out in a week or so. More pics on IG @ quickspeedshop. The front will probably be a simple channel bumper, but might have a small grille guard/stinger on top.
QuickSpeedShop Can’t wait!
Does anyone know where to put the white vacuum cap , after doing a posilock job, on a 1990 2.5 YJ? I capped off the hvac heater" red hose into the firewall" from what I just read. I'm lost!
?
Google a Jeep Wrangler vacuum diagram. This video is several years old and I don't even have the Jeep anymore.
they make an offenhauser intake manifold for it, I put a 4bbl on the yj I had
👍
I had a 1990 Cherokee with a 6 that had all sorts of vacuum line issues. Sometimes I’d be driving and the motor would almost redline without me even touching the gas pedal...lol 😂🤣
you lost me.
?
He doesn’t understand why you would take a functioning device and remove it. I know I don’t