An easier way to clean & degrease a sewing machine with less parts removal.
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- Опубликовано: 24 июл 2024
- THIS METHOD IS NOT FOR USE ON BLACK MACHINES WITH SHELLAC/LACQUERED FINISHES.
Tutorial on how to clean and degrease a vintage Singer sewing machine without removing so many parts. Fewer parts removal. Remove grease, grime, dirt, and oil an easier way. Demo using a SInger Model 404 Slant Needle. FREE SINGER INSTRUCTION MANUALS: www.singer.com/support
The Brush seating stone is made by DIAMOND D and I bought mine here:
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Here is a video I made about it: • How to Speedup your Se...
MUSIC: Outlaws Farewell by Reed Mathis.
00:00 INTRO
02:32 TOOLS
08:54 CHEMS
16:50 SUPLIES
19:12 WSH & DRY AREA
22:50 RMV PARTS
30:20 RMV MOTOR
33:24 PREWASH
1:03:06 MAIN WASH
1:14:50 BLOW DRY
1:16:46 INSPECT
1:18:15 HOT DRY
1:26:43 RMV RUST
1:34:06 OIL BUSHINGS
1:40:32 GREASE GEAR
1:42:55 OTHR OILING
1:58:14 BRUSH ON OIL
2:10:20 WSH/DRY PARTS
02:30:40 OIL CLN PARTS
02:32:42 INSTL MOTOR
02:37:30 INSTL HNDWHEEL
02:43:47 RUN IN OIL
02:46:56 FINAL OIL
02:56:00 INSTL BOBBIN AREA
O3:O4:25 WAX ON WAX OFF
03:18:40 NOSE COVER
03:21:00 LIGHT
03:25:45 INSTL PRTS
03:32:42 SEW TEST
03:44:04 SEAT BRUSHES 
Хобби
Good Day Andy, I just found in Italy, I am stationed there - a Singer 401 M. This Singer Machine was Never used apparently received as a wedding present in 1961, it still had the original bobbin that singer included with white thread in the bobbin area. The machine is a combination machine, electric, and with foot manual pedal. It is included in a wonderful varnished wooden table. I have watched your videoes on this type of machine, but I have never heard you mention the 401 M. Where these machines made in Milano, from your videos you mentioned that some where made in Germany. - Muenchen? As the machine had never been used it was stuck....so I followed your video and within one day I got it to work. However I had an issue with the Inside button. So I took it apart following your video, and like magic got it unstuck after let it soak for 12 hours....but this machine...is amazing....it goes through jeans, leather its amazing make my Singer - Heavy duty plastic casing .....look outdated really. Oh by the way I paid 60 euros for it around 62 dollars....so I am very happy.....Thank you for your videos.... lastly....talk about black gobs of gooo....I took out the stacked thing....as shown in your video, to get to the first lever for k to speacial....little round gobs of gooo...that is the only place i found any deposits of oil etc....amazing condition....thank you...for your videos....Made my day...
Was a Pfaff Man now onto Singer.....
Ciao from Italy
Saluti Marco in Italia! The rarest Singer Slant Needle Model and you have a quality one for 60 Euro. Amazing way to start a new year and congratulations. It was not made in Milano but in Monza, Italy: www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/monza If you look on the underside of the machine, in front of the bobbin area, you should see an alphanumeric serial number starting with the letter "M". Your 401 M is modeled after the German made 401G and 411G which also can be used as treadle machines. They were made at the Singer factory in Karlsruhe, Germany. www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/karlsruhe A 401M will occasionally pop up for sale in the USA, like this one on eBay for $299 or 280EU: www.ebay.com/itm/314228965143 You truly have a beautiful, rare gem of a machine. I'm happy for you friend and hope it gives you pleasure for decades to come. Thanks for sharing and for watching my channel.
Omg I’m so so excited to hear Andy’s voice. I’ve been watching reruns just to hear him.
😀💖👀 You're so nice, terry. This video is crazy long, but at least I posted up a new video. Can't thank you enough for your support. Take care.
Soooo great 👍 to see you back, and to hear your voice, especially when you chuckle. God bless 🙏 and keep you.
Thanks very much, Ronald 😊
He is relaxing to listen to
Andy, thank you so much! I used almost all 4 hours as a walkthrough on making my mom's 403a fit for use again. When she gave it to me, she included the repair form from when she had it serviced in 1975. Luckily for me, she hasn't oiled it once since then, so there was almost no old oil or grease to clean out. On the down side, SHE HASN'T OILED THIS THING SINCE 1975!!! Anyway, she's super pretty, purring like a really loud kitten, and sewing beautifully now thanks to your helpful instructions!
WOW! 47 years in the dark patiently waiting for you! A testament to Singer's craftsmanship and your determination. It's really a fantastic model. Happy for you and thanks for the comment.
Very definitely worth the the (not very long for what we got) wait Andy - it was so good I watched it all in one go. I haven't moved from my seat! Thank you so, so much for all the time you put into this video, it is sure to become a classic on how to clean your machine without having to learn how to be a sewing machine mechanic first. It's just ideal for so many people who pick up a vintage machine as a bargain somewhere (or inherit one), get it home, and then realise when they look inside that they've got some housekeeping to do. I will be recommending it for sure!!
Wow! It's like your an endurance runner! I made this video over a week or so and in about 30 segments. I was halfway through the editing and realized "man, this video is really long", haha. Too late to record it all over, so it is what it is. My longest ever. I got complaints about my 2.5-hour gear change video and can only imagine what I'll be hearing about this one, haha. At least I can put the sectioned index on the bottom now, so I won't get sued for sore eyes and stiff necks, right? You're like a blessing on my channel. Megan. My best to Mr. Mills and stay cool there.
Great to hear you voice Andy! As usual, well presented and useful. FWIW, your voice and presentation are clear at even 2x speed. Thanks for the effort and upload...hoping you are well.
Thank you 😊You have fast ears! I just tried it at 2X and it reminded me of the time we took speed to make the 12-hour drive to San Fransico and talked like that for hours. Whew! What a buzz that was. Never again. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 Haha! Great story, Andy! As a kid back in the Dark Ages, we took a family trip out to California one time, all 6 of us. My dear father smoked cigars all the way out and back. I think speed would have been more fun. 🤢
@@graymaquilter9641 Phew! Yes, better yacking all the way than breathing fumes, hehe. Take care.
You are amazing! Thank you so much for all the patience with your incredible teachings and willingness to share your knowledge. May God bless you and your family and keep you all safe.
You're very kind, Grace. Thank you 🙏 for the nice comment. If you are new to my channel may I give you a link to my Playlist page? I list my videos into playlists by model number, like 221,337,99K,404, etc. You may find your special interest model there with some
helpful videos. Hope you and yours have a wonderful 2022.
ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists
@@andytubesewing1953 Yes, new to your incredible channel. This is wonderful, thank you for your suggestion, thank you again.
@@gracekarina7186 😉
Andy, Thank you for your videos, they are awesome!!!
Thanks for your support, and for watching my channel. 🙏
Hi Andy
This is a gem of a Singer sewing machine. And once again you have put a lot of effort into it, with chapters and index, which the heart desires.
Although I am not a native English speaker, I understood everything well even at one and a half speed.
Meguiar's products are tiptop, I use some on my car and of course for that certain "blingbling" on old sewing machines. Thank you for this great post.
Thank you for watching. I was very excited when RUclips changed their software to allow the index. My videos tend to run long and it even helps me when I go back for reference to a viewer. Glad you like it. By the way, hre Englisch- und Satzstruktur ist möglicherweise besser als meine! Schön gemacht 👍
This is very exciting. How to properly clean a sewing machine. GOODNESS, I'm learning something here thanks Sir. Your my Hero. I just hope I'll.know where to place each part back at the right place. I will learn.
Thanks for the nice comment. May I ask the brand and model number of your machine? I may have more information.
Thanks a lot for this video! I got a killer deal ($1!) on an older all metal Pfaff 92 that was basically unused and had sat in a damp basement absorbing the musty smell and gathering surface rust on all the unpainted inner parts for 40 years. I used the technique and products you described in your video and it came out great. No more musty smell and it runs super smooth.
Oh, man. There is not a part on that machine that cost less than a dollar, and you got the whole thing for that price. I know how rewarding it is to restore a machine like that. I only work on Singer models but I know Pfaff made some great machines. There is one on eBay right now for $199.99 so I'd say you got a real bargain, haha. Thanks for taking the time to comment and happy sewing.
Thank you. Love cleaning/rehabbing these oldies but since I’m all on my own in how to I’m thankful for people like you to guide me when I’m stuck or need help.
Thanks for the nice comment, Jean. I'm happy you found my channel and thanks for keeping the machines clean and working.
What a ballsey way to clean a machine! In the shower!!! But a fabulous, extremely informative instruction for someone new to looking after “retro” machines. Thank you very much, with appreciation from New Zealand.
Who Dares Wins. I had to find a better way than toothbrushes and q-tip cotton buds. Can't use the KK on black old Singers on the outside, but that KK gets the krud out. Hope you try it sometime and thanks for watching my channel.
This is an amazing tutorial. I bought an antique treadle cabinet and a Singer 503a was inside. What a heavy duty machine. I hope I can get it working. I believe a good cleaning and oiling will bring it back to life. The motor turns everything but is super sluggish. Your videos make this a fun project to tackle.
Sure you can get it working, Jan. You will love that 503A Rocketeer. If you need to get into any repairs or adjustments or need to do a little deeper cleaning, I have some playlists of videos that may help. Model 503A Playlist = ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX Model 403A Playlist also, b/c the mechanics are mostly the same = ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg If you want/need a copy of the 98-page instruction manual you can download a free PDF copy directly from Singer here = www.singer.com/search/support?title=503
It's like you found a pearl in an oyster, congratulations. 🏆
Thank you so much for taking the time to show and tell. You are so kind, and I am so grateful. ❤
Such a wonderful comment to end my evening on. I appreciate you taking the time to make it and thank you for watching my channel
I'm glad to see you back.
It is a pleasure to watch your videos and follow the steps through the process.
Thank you so much.
Thanks for the very kind comment, Alberto. 🙏 I appreciate your support. Take care.
I have a 301A that I recently purchased that someone else has rehabilitated already. She sews like a dream. I have watched hours of your videos and am almost brave enough to tackle doing a rehab of my grandma's machine. It is not a fancy machine, it is a 285J, but she is precious to me because my grandma spent many hours sewing at her. Thank you for such wonderful videos that make even us novices feel brave enough to save these oldies but goodies!
How nice of you to comment, Rita, and thanks for watching my channel. I love hearing that you are even considering doing the rehab yourself. My 500+ videos have over 3 million views now, so do not feel alone or that you can not do it. It's very satisfying and rewarding to just even clean the needle bar, haha. Good luck and take care.
Andy. I was thrilled to see you posting again. You're such a wonderful resource for old Singer fans like me and I've referred to your videos countless times. I found your RUclips channel last year when I inherited a 328K in an original cabinet. Your video helped me get it oiled and spinning again. I'm more of an all around mechanic than a seamstress but I've since fallen in love with these machines and I've purchased a few more in the hope that I can put them back into service for people. I've used this video and done a full de-grease and clean using these products with excellent results. I've been concentrating on the late 60's early 70's Made in Great Britain machines. 457's and a 478. They're still inexpensive and they clean up and function really nice. I also grabbed a 401a in it's original case that I plan to restore for myself. I've been struggling with parts that claim to be direct replacements but clearly are not. I'd love to find more resources for genuine Singer part numbers and reasonably good sources for parts. I'm used to automotive, washers and dryers and lawn and garden where I can easily find plenty of sites with exploded views showing original part numbers online. Best of health to you and keep posting great videos!
Thanks for watching my channel, and special thanks for saving those machines. You are on track in wanting parts lists and manuals. Singer had them for free on their website until about 3 years ago, then dropped them. We are lucky they still have the instruction manuals. There are a few sources around for the parts lists. Here is a very reliable source for parts diagrams for a number of models. He sells them for $6 but he is honoring my 20% coupon discount all thru this year (2021) with no limit. The coupon is andy-h-yt and here is the parts diagrams page: store.tandtrepair.com/pasc.html He also sells some parts, but the most common source is eBay when a seller is parting out a machine.
There are a few sellers who have been specializing in parts since the pandemic increased demand, and having the correct part numbers helps you when buying b/c a seller often has no idea if the part is correct for your model. It also helps b/c that part may be on more than one model number and that gives you a better chance of finding it. In the end, the most reliable parts seller I know of is Connie at thriftyfarmgirl.com/sewing-machine-parts.htm She has been doing it a long time and I have bought a number of parts from her. She has even helped me track down parts if she did not have them.
Thank you SO MUCH for taking the time to record this video. I appreciate your thoroughness and attention to detail.
You bet. It's nice you took the time to comment; so thank you too!
I did it! I did it! Sounds wonderful and I don't have to turn the wheel to get it started. My daughter said she never saw so much earwax. Thank you, so much. It was a 301
Congratulations! 🏆 Thanks for rescuing that 301 and happy sewing.✨
Wow! Just wow! Wonderful video. Incredible transformation and very informative. The machine stitches beautifully! Thanks for making this video.
Thank you. You're a strong person to get thru this epic, hehe. The vintage Singer machines ( I only do Singer) come out so nice from this type of cleaning. Sews like brand new again. I appreciate you watching my channel.
Thanks for all of your hard work in doing this video I enjoyed watching and learning! I recently became interested in vintage machines after buying a beautiful Fleetwood for $20 and it was clean . If I encounter a machine needing cleaning I now know what to do! Thanks! Subscribed ☺️
Congrats on your "new" Fleetwood! I appreciate your comment and that you watch my channel.
Excellent lesson. Learned so much. I now have the confidence and know-how to rehabilitate an old sewing machine. I will try this sometime. Thank you teacher Andy T.
Good luck. You can use a lower concentration of cleaner on many machines, like 15 or 20% KK to water. There are other degreasers available too, and some just use kerosene if that is all they can get. Thank you for watching my channel.
Just the video I needed! I got an old Singer 347 from my MIL that’s gunked to all heck. And I actually have a lot of the supplies and tools!
Glad you found the video. The motor on your 347 is internal and must be removed before washing. Video #9 of this playlist shows how to completely remove the wires/motor if you want: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJxbOOMKQPvmeTRqi0dhGa5 As I washed machines more I developed some changes. In this playlist is a video "pre-wash and post-wash" ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKK4y8dsq3oMKJFTGsoNJWmi it shows how I started just pulling the motor out the end of the machine and wrapping it in a ziplock for washing the machine without removing the wiring. On a model 457, that's what I would do. I don't remove the timing belt either b/c the KK cleaner will not hurt it. I leave the light bulb in (or not) and any on/off switches b/c nothing is "electronic" and all those parts can be dried completely with a blow dryer without causing any problems. I seldom use full strength KK any longer but 50% on really dirty stuff and 15 to 20% on body parts/paint but you'll be the judge of what's needed. Model 347 is a very nice home sewing machine; strong enough and versatile while being easy to maintain. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Well, I was watching the new cleaning video and got into the reassembly part where you were moving the needle plate lever and rod and noticed that mine doesn't work like that. I've had trouble adjusting it and the left clamp never went fully down. I noticed that there was no play in the lever and that mine had lots of play so I took the indicator plate off the base and noticed there was a spring in there that wasn't held down by the screw. Reassembled it with the spring under the lever, then the lever and then the plate and top plate and...voila/viola the needle plate is now held down securely. I then lubed the bobbin plate slide and the bobbin carrier. Thanks Andy for all the great videos. You've been a great help to me and my 503A. Ralph-
Nicely done, Ralph, and I understand about those springs there. I was puzzled by them the first time I tried to reassemble. I have a video about the needle plate lifting system for viewers who wonder what Ralph was doing with those springs, ruclips.net/video/n1LSM-BZw9k/видео.html Thanks for watching my channel, Ralph, and take care.
I have a couple of older machines. My most recent was a free 403a. My favorite is my mom's 401. I'd like to keep them in great shape, hopefully I have the confidence to do this. Thanks for your videos.
You can do it 👍 I love that you have your Mom's 401A. A treasure. If you'd like to see more about maintaining your 401A and 403A I have 20+ videos in each of my playlists for those two models. Trouble, my 401A: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO Regina, my 403A: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg I'll try to answer any questions you may have going forward. Easy does it and hope you have fun.
Breaking the video into sections is a great idea!
I love it too! When RUclips announced the ability for it I tried it and have used it on most of my videos. It's an editing process you can do after uploading it to YT. It takes time but so very much worth it. I often go back to my own videos for a start time to answer questions in the comments and this index at the bottom saves me so much time. I'm glad you like it and thanks for watching my channel.
Under high pressure and / or high temperature conditions, aluminum fuses to steel, (spark plugs in an aluminum head is a really perfect example; without an anti seize compound, it is a recipe for disaster. Also, The small screws fastened to the aluminum body can fuse to the body ( not high heat, but definitely high pressure ). I always put oil on the screws and bolts before putting the machine together. Many thanks for the video.
And thanks to you for sharing valuable information.
Thank you for your insight.
Great video Andy. It surprised me how quickly flash rusting locked up the mechanical parts . 🇬🇧✊🏻
Thanks for watching it, Jim. Each machine is a little different, but getting locked can happen a lot. Usually, as soon as you get oil in the 6 main bushings everything releases right away, so this one surprised me. I live in the desert here, with very low humidity, too. What really surprised me was the rust on the feed lifting shaft. Wow! That was a first to see it turn the whole thing brown. I usually get some light rust on the main arm shaft, but often just brushing on the oil and wiping off the excess takes that right off. I'm glad the rust remover works so quickly and easily. It's cheap too, considering. Take care, and come back soon.
This is by far the craziest thing I’ve ever seen done to a sewing machine but by god it worked.
@@selenapollard2841 it does seem like a wild idea doesn't it but I've done a few dozen machines like this and it worked well on all of them and they're all still working well some of the machines were really horrible and smelly but because singer made decent machines they all came out shiny and clean appreciate your comment and thanks for watching my channel
Throughly enjoyed this video. Watched a little bit at a time over the past few days. Lots of tips and tricks to use on my own machines. Thank you!
Thanks for sticking with it, hehe. I appreciate your viewership and comment. 🙏
This video is incredible. Thank you for your efforts and for sharing!
It's kind of yo to say so and thank you for taking the time to comment.
This is the best english lerning Film j ever hear, thank you , great master!!
Thanks very much. I am blushing 😊 A teacher is only good if the student can learn so thank you for your dedication. Take care.
Amazing video, that machine is restored to it's full glory. Thank you for passing on your skills!
Thank you for watching my channel, Bondee
Thanks🙋🏼🪡🖌️🪥
Hello Andy, what an amazing video :) Just finished watching. I am now inspired to do do the same with my Singer 28 (Just learnt how old my mother's Singer is) So I have so far taken most of it apart. Having a hard time with the screw on handwheel (letting it sit overnight). And msut learn to rewire motor on it also.... Anyway.... I am thankful for your videos which help me with most of my SM repair learning. Merci Beaucoup from Canada
Thank you. Please be aware the KK cleaner can damage the black finish on a model like yours. Test before using KK on the outside, or washing the outside. I've only cleaned a couple of black machines.
ruclips.net/video/w6fn-TSOCYo/видео.html model 99K
ruclips.net/video/lz2xV3zfvJE/видео.html inside model 221
ruclips.net/video/nZKAVHfUQoc/видео.html
Andy Tube is hitting the showers again! Such fun! I’m intrigued with the thorough washing of a machine with everything still intact. I recently picked up a 1953 201-2 and I’m cleaning the insides with kerosene and SMO in the same manner you clean with KK. So far, so good. The black finish won’t allow me to use KK or water. It’s a slower process, but still so satisfying! Good to see you back in the shampoo and style business!
Good job IMO, Candy. You're smart using the kerosene and plain SMO on a 201 I think. Sure, a little slower, but great results and with your normal maintenance you won't need it again for 30 years. Happy sewing, and thanks for watching my channel again 🙏
Thanks for this excellent detailed lesson! Another great Andy production. :)
Thank you for watching my channel 🙏
CAUTION: Older black machines with shellac or lacquer based finishes and delicate decals must be treated differently. The machine in this video is from mid-century and thus a bit "newer", and has a much more durable painted (or enameled??) finish, compared to the older ones. Andy, could you please reply to this with some crucial differences and tips, to help the newbies who might not know yet? And maybe pin it to the comment section?
OK, pinned it. Perhaps you'd like to make a video on your channel showing proper methods for cleaning/protecting machines with the shellac/lacquer finishes? I'd be happy to refer to it. Thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 I am by no means an authority on the topic. Was just helping to protect the new VSM enthusiasts who might have an older machine. After posting this, I came across another video of yours from a couple years ago where you cleaned and refurbished an old black machine (can't remember the title now). That would be a great secondary reference to this masterpiece. And thanks for sharing everything that you do!!
What an amazing video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
👍😃
I gatta try this I was so scared to even think of this but since I have been taking them apart and putting them back I believe I can do this
Oh, you can do it, Krystie. I've found I can use a much weaker solution of the KK, too. Max at 50% for really bad gears, 20% for the rest and even a 5 -10% will do the outside.
@@andytubesewing1953 I hat a 401 she really dirty still using it lol just oil and did a quick clean I definitely need to do this in the future
Thanks for sharing this, Andy!
I'm glad I was able to make another video. Thank you for watching it, and take care.✨
Thank you very much for this information I really enjoyed this. I have a machine like this and I cleaned the top but forgot to clean the bottom.
Sure, you are welcome. A lot of busy moving parts down there aren't there? I was surprised the first time I removed the bottom plate. Thanks for the comment and for watching my channel.
Thank you for the increased speed tip for the video. Great video as well.. thanks for all the lessons.
I appreciate you watching my channel. Thank you very much
Dear Andy Tube: I just found your channel (& Sub) this morning and really love how you take your time to show and explain everything. Your knowledge of Singer repair is phenomenal. Thanks so much for making all of these GREAT videos for a novice like me. I am cleaning a Bernina but the theory is relatively the same. I plan to watch everyone of your videos. I learned so much after just one hour like "flash rust". ps. your voice is calming and reassuring. :>
Welcome to Andy tube channel Violet. I'm happy that you're here. I know Bernina makes a wonderful machine and it's very true that the methods can be used for most machines. I really only done singers but I've looked at a lot of other brands and you know they all have a motor, a hand wheel and arm shaft, a needle bar or pressure foot, the hook and a feed dog. How they all work together can be a little different sometimes but not too much different. I appreciate the kind words in your comments and hope to hear from you again 💖
Andy Glad to see you back, although I am late as usual to catch you up. Have missed your toot ledge ! Pray all is well.
I appreciate that you find the time to visit my channel no matter when that is. Thanks for commenting and take care.
Msg fm Holland NL
So glad to hear you again Andy.
Luv yr videos
Keep well
Ciao Paulo
Thank you for your support 💖
Hubby restored an old treadle powered singer and cabinet. We're looking forward to trying your techniques on cleaning up a couple of machines a lot like your Singer 494 project.
To buy quality made sewing machines like your 494 performs would be at least a thousand dollars in my estimation.
The spacious area between the needle and machine looks to be about eight inches which only comes in today's quilting sewing machines. The fact that it has metal parts is simply unheard of in modern machines; marketers claim to have ALL METAL parts when in fact, a lot of the gears are actually nylon/plastic, and oil actually melts them from what I've heard.
If folks only knew what these vintage machines are capable of, they'd be buying 'em up
The last time I checked the cost of a new model 404 in today's dollars it was about $1300 so you are right on the mark. Every single machine like this I've done has just amazed me once it's cleaned up and adjusted just how well it has held up and how beautifully it's still sews. I'm sure you'll enjoy working on some more of the machines and I wish you all the luck. And thanks for watching my channel
LOVE this video from start to finish
Thank you so much! I appreciate you watching my channel and the nice comments
When I first realized you were going to actually WASH the machine I thought oh no! Glad I watched the whole video, the machine looked brand new. I don’t know if I would ever work up the courage to do this.
When you have to wash the liner in the bottom pan, if you take an old towel and press out the water, the liner will dry much faster and the liner will not be disturbed. Something we knitters do when blocking our work.
Thanks for sharing a faster way to dry the drip pan liner.
Excellent choice! I have this very machine!
Yes, my favorite heavy-duty straight stitch Singer machine: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIB4kvIHCfHYuyLMUp5A4UI Thanks for watching my channel.
Wow that was a course in cleaning the 404! Thank you!
A real Saga, right? Haha. You're a strong person if you made it through that. I wish you could see and use the machine now. So nice; like new. Thank you for watching my channel. 🙏Take care.
Gotcha!!! Howdy Andy Tube! This is so helpful having this in-depth lesson! I will watch this probably this evening! Thanks! Have fun, keep safe (I know you do).
Thanks. Bring popcorn!
@@andytubesewing1953 Ha Ha Ha! That's funny Andy!
I hope you are doing well, still watch your videos , still learning more and more, sending many blessings from GA
Nice of you to say Hi, Viviana. Have a nice fall and take care.
I enjoy your videos so much. you make it look so easy and i know its not....Thank you so much!!!
Hey! You again? Haha, I just replied to your earlier question. Thank you for your support, 🙏 but you can certainly do any repair that I have done. Just plan it out and take your time 👍
Soft metal brushes for cleaning Files are very effective as well for removing flash rust on screws and metal parts. awesome Video. Thank you for sharing!👍
Appreciate you sharing these great tips, Bea, and thanks for watching my RUclips channel 🙏
Even tho the video was long, it was very well done n informative.
thank you for watching my channel 🙏
Thanks for making this video. It's been a pleasure to watch as I'm learning about these machines and about to try cleaning up a 500a myself.
Thanks for watching my channel, Hanns. Your 500A model has many more moving parts under the arm cover. You may be interested in this playlist of my videos for the Slant-O-Matic 401A, the model the 500A is based on. Most of the parts are the same as your machine and I cover all those extra parts as far as remove, replace or adjust, Including the cam stack. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO
Your ROcketeer 500A is sure a popular machine with many happy owners and I wish you good luck with it.
@@andytubesewing1953 After I watched this video I checked inside the 500 and noticed the gears you could easily reach in this 404 were buried under the cam stack in my machine. I'll definitely check out your other video for more info. Thanks for the link! There's something to be said for the relative simplicity of a machine like the 404, and I'll be keeping an eye out for one in my travels.
@@hanns1401 You'll do well with the 500A, no worries. If you like you can download a free copy of the ORiginal Service Manual for model 500A at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf
It covers everything on the machine. Yes, I've always loved the model 404 for its power and simplicity. They can usually be found for a lower price as most people know about the 401A and 301A machines. I just like the front drop-in bobbin system better than the side-loading bobbin of the 301A, but don't pass up a 301A either. Best wishes, and take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 I've watched quite a few of the videos in that playlist now and thanks to them have been able to disassemble and clean the cam stack, followers, pattern selection knobs and associated hardware. I've also pulled a few components not specific to the 401/500 such as the motor and throat plate latch assembly since the latches were sticking and I wanted to clean them individually. So I *think* I've gotten it stripped down enough that it's pre-clean and shower time. I'm a little concerned that the worm gear on the horizontal drive shaft is a little difficult to reach because of the race(?) that the cam stack rides on top of. Though it's visible and I can likely reach it with a small brush. Would you recommend any further disassembly for this machine before committing to the full cleaning? Thanks!
@@hanns1401 The part is called the Bight Amplitude and Pattern Selector. I gave you the link to a FREE copy of the service manual in a previous comment, but here it is again: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-500-service-manual.pdf
Page 36 of that manual has the instructions for removing and replacing that part if you'd like to do that to make cleaning easier.
I have WD-40 Bike Chain Cleaner & Degreaser - tempted to try it on my sewing machine but seeing as it's meant for bike chains, you're supposed to hose it off after then reapply chain oil. My bike chain always goes from black and gunky, to silvery and spiffy clean, it works super well...
I found the product online and the SDS looks OK. They say it is good on aluminum, plastic, rubber, and paint "if used as directed". I could not find the "Directions for Use" anywhere. I saw warnings to wash your hands well, but not what you clean, like the bike or chain. It even said "Superior lubrication that extends the life of bike chains" so why wash the chain if it says it lubricates it? Maybe you mean just to get debris off? Go for it! just try a couple small spots and see. You can wash the whole machine as I do. Your product has ethanol, propane, alcohol, and other stuff so no flame nearby, and don't breath too much, right? I have a viewer who cleaned his machine with LA totally awesome orange from the dollar store and said it worked as well as Krud Kutter. I think the WD would work better than that on the really greasy gunk. Let us know, or better yet, make a video. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Hi there. I've used oven cleaner on all the mechanical parts underneath old singer sewing machines and it works extremely well. Just make sure it doesn't get on any decals and anypainted surfaces. I normally do this 2 to 3 times each time washing off with large amounts of water. Being very carrfull of the decals and paint. Oven cleaner sprayed on the affected areas an then a soft wire brush used to help off the grime. The underneath and mechanical parts ie mechanism comes beautifully clean and shining like new. Then dried immediately after . Apply wd40 . Wipe excess of and then light machine oil applied to all working parts. Hope this is helpfull
I’m so glad I found this! Thank you for sharing. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😊
I'm glad you found it too! Thanks for commenting, and happy sewing✨
Andy, many thanks for taking the time to make such an informative video. I would not have thought of washing a sewing machine with water. I am about to commence restoring a Singer 211G156. Do you have any videos on working on this machine?
Yes, it's not intuitive to think of washing a machine like that. I don't know what inspired me but I've done dozens of machines now. No videos for the 211 model. I don't work on Industrial Sewing Machines. I did find a copy of the original 14-page Service Manual if you need it you can email andymanuals53@gmail.com and mention the exact model number. BTW, after replying to these document requests I delete everything in my inbox and do not keep any information of the sender. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
Andy, so wonderful to see you back in this great video! I, too, watched the entire video in one sitting - a restful Sunday afternoon in rainy GA. Your videos have been an education for me and I have restored/serviced at least 36 machines with your video lessons. I still have one 1937 Singer Featherweight whose motor runs too warm but I plan soon to open the motor and replace the wicks as you showed us how in your Featherweight video. I’m a little scared, but I am more confident because of your video. I have opened and cleaned one Featherweight motor but have not replaced wicks. I bought the motor brush seater stone when you first made a video about it and I really like it. I hope you are doing well and thank you again so much for your patient, in-depth videos which are so easy to follow since you are a great teacher.
I can relate to your rainy Sunday afternoon as we've been having a little rain in the desert here lately. I must thank you for saving all those machines! That is impressive and wonderful. It's why I made all my videos, so it helps me justify the time and effort. I'm glad you will do the wicks on the next motor. I know you will be fine with it and imagine how rewarded you'll feel after. I sure felt that way.
This is the first comment I read today, so thanks for the uplifting start on a Monday. Take care.
Another great video. Very helpful. Is there any difference between the Tri Flow Superior oil and the Singer oil? What do you prefer to use the Singer oil for? Also, do you put anything on the bottom rubber feet to treat/condition them? Or do you just clean them?
If the rubber bed cushions are stiff I just replace them: www.ebay.com/itm/283226309302?epid=661359003&hash=item41f19a82b6:g:5tcAAOSwZPdb0Ifn If they are rubber and not hard I have soaked in alcohol for a couple minutes, dried them, and rubbed on a drop of oil. Trying to prevent oxidation, esp. here in the Sonoran Desert. The difference between TriFlow and SMO (sewing machine oil) is the TriFlow has P.T.F.E. in the formula, a type of teflon, and it is supposed to reduce friction. It cost more so I use it where the manual says to oil and where it is metal-on-metal rubbing. I use SMO, any brand, when I'm getting some oil on shafts after washing & drying the machine. That is more to prevent rust from forming. I want to make clear though that I have seen 100 year old family sewing machines that were oiled with only SInger oil and they were in fantastic condition. To me the main idea is to kept the machine clean, remove lint & dust often, wipe and brush old oil off and add new oil. No need to drown the machine in oil, but a drop or two were the manual says to put it. When the old oil/grease is not brushed or wiped off first it just builds up when new oil is added and extra oil is a dust/lint magnet. Thanks for watching my channel.
Andy - I have been rescuing machines for some time now and without fail I learn something new from each one of your videos. I am particularly impressed with the detailed explanations you provide all along the journey. Confessing right now I may never put a machine in the shower but who knows? If I run across a good candidate the education alone might push me into action. Thanks again for excellent educational content. Aside from your RUclips channel where do you find buyers?
Thanks for watching my channel. I'm glad you enjoy my videos. I remember the trepidation I felt the first time I washed a machine. It was a hot mess of a Singer 600E lubed with some kind of black gunk. I figured I'd end up with a boat anchor but it came out sparkling bright and after fixing the Auto Reel Bobbin WInder it worked very well. I never looked back after that. I've only sold 3 machines thru my RUclips Channel over the years. For the last 8 years or so I just advertise on the local Craigslist with great success. Post those interior pictures with a link to a 30-second long video and they sell the first weekend. Late in the first year of the pandemic, they sold the day I posted them. I won't be doing the work any longer so I'm trying to find a buyer for the few machines I have left and all my extra motors, tensions, bobbin case, foot pedals, attachment sets, etc. but not having much luck locally. I have a handful of friends around the country who do this and they swear by the Facebook Marketplace for selling. I've never tried it myself but it makes sense and they all are willing to ship, even overseas. Thanks for saving the machines, Lee, and take care.
Thank you so much. Unfortunately, I oiled my 503a before watching this video. Fortunately, I did not remove any technical parts other than the hand wheel and the top lid. I will likely need to clean it again as I am seeing more orange, eat wax looking gunk. The oil I received from a local sew/vac shop is removing all the yuck I didn’t initially notice in the gears. Thanks for what you do.
Well, no real harm was done. Anyway, if you got oil on the gears that is bad for them so it needs to be removed.
Only grease on metal gears. Model 503A is a very nice machine and I hope you enjoy it for many years.
Excellent video!
Thank you, Bonnie 🙏
Hi Andy, hope you are well. I have recently purchased a beautiful Singer 503-J that I am hoping to clean up. The machine runs but quite slowly. Is there any extra disassembly that you would recommend for the 503 versus this 404? Or should I just follow the video to the T? Thank you so much for this resource!
Well, since you mention disassembly, here is my 21-video Playlist for model 503: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX You may find more parts you wish to remove for deeper cleaning.
If you clean and oil the machine and it still runs slow it is most likely the foot controller (pedal) needs servicing too. Here is a Playlist for restoring the controller: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71
If you did not get the Instruction Manual with the machine but would like one, a FREE PDF copy of the original 98-page manual is available from SInger Support at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=503 You'll be finding out why SInger called the 503A "Special".
You do NOT need to remove as much as I do, but you do have a worm gear area on the 503A that needs some attention, such as removing the old grease and applying new, and the Vibrating Bracket for ZigZagging the needle bar should be looked at. That's why I usually just pull off parts and wash the whole thing, but it is your choice once you see the condition of the machine. Thanks for watching my channel, and good luck.
I really enjoyed listening and watching you clean this old sewing machine. I have an old 348 that has flat pattern discs. Can I clean this in the same way please. It has not been used for 30 years. It has been stored in a very hot conservatory. Can I clean it using the same method please?
Mostly the same method, yes. I found I can use a lower percent concentration of the KK in water, like 20% KK. With a 347 it is more work to remove the motor out the end. I take off the timing and motor belts with the handwheel. I leave the wires connected to the motor and hang it out the end covered with a plastic bag. I leave the light and bulb, switches, etc. on the machine and that is OK as long as you dry the machine right away and completely. I cleaned a couple of model 347, one in very bad condition, for 2 clients. They cleaned up very nicely. I have 2 Playlists with a few videos for model 347 if you'd care to glance through them.
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJS_4FKPb4bgAbHtYWnexvy
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIv5oChf24tvhU_bc45eVYK
Take your time with yours and try to have fun. It's very rewarding. Thanks for watching my channel.
I love Andy’s laugh ! lol that tub better be clean ! 🧼 lol ❤😂
If the machine was really greasy I just spray it afterward with the solution and wipe it with a grout sponge. She cool with it b/c she has not had to clean the tub in 20 years, haha.
@@andytubesewing1953 love it ! my husbands a plumber so if I clogged the bathtub he could fix it lol 😂
@@krystleroy3068 He's got you covered for sure. By the way, my friend says I must have the cleanest drains in town with all that KK that goes down then haha
Your videos are so great! Thank you thank you!
Thank you Emily. 💖 I appreciate you watching my channel
Thank you Andy . God bless.
Same to you!
Great video as usual!!
I appreciate you watching. Thank you.
I loved watching you take apart the Singer 513 and show the insides! It gave me the courage to take off the top of the machine and see why the reverse stitch action doesn't work. The button pushes in and the springs inside look clean and well connected. What should I do next? Thanks Andy.
You should email me at andymanuals53@gmail.com so we can work towards a solution. Video/pictures can be helpful.
Good to see you! I'm just going through your videos to find somthing on cleaning a crinkle finish machine inside and out. I have one that is just covered in dirt and gummed up crud. I've take quite a bit of the parts off but don't want to have to dismantle the inside completely. Do you use the same method as this video for crinkle machines (mines a 66) or would the degreaser mess up the finish?
I've never worked on a crinkle finish model. If the finish is just painted, a 15% solution of the KK would work, but test it first. Here are a couple of my playlists for black finished SInger models and how I cleaned them: 99K - ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z 221K Featherweight - ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIA1OPw0k6QOSTE-wAUZ4kp Looking back thru some old bookmarks I found 3 pages I marked for crinkle fined machines. I tried them and they are still active and maybe they can help you - www.quiltingroomwithmel.com/2017/08/how-to-clean-godzilla-or-crinkle-finish.html www.quiltingboard.com/vintage-antique-machine-enthusiasts-f22/how-do-you-clean-crinkle-finish-t244686.html cherylsteapots2quilting.blogspot.com/2013/01/cleaning-sewing-machines.html
Good Luck, and thanks for visiting my channel.
Thank you so much for this demonstration Andy! Awesome how clean it gets. I will try this after I opened the motor to find out what is wrong. By the way where do you buy this little diamond pin? :D
Oh, Hi! I just replied to your email, hehe. Here is where I bought my last diamond stone: www.amazon.com/CAI-DIAMOND-D-Diamond-Seater/dp/B07J28CT5L
Thanks for sharing your Knowledge! You should look into buying a steam cleaner (not a clothes steamer). They're pretty good at melting grease and crud away and blowing it out of the cracks. All with much less moisture than washing the machine. I have a restoration shop and detailing business, and my steamers are put to work almost daily! Once you have one, you'll wonder how you got by with out it.
Thanks for the input, Jesse. I looked into a steam cleaner about 10 years ago but not very deeply or completely. Keeping in mind I don't do this for a living if you'd like to suggest one or more steamers my viewers may be able to afford or be interested in I will post the link(s) you give for it/them. Thanks for watching my channel and taking the time to comment.
@@andytubesewing1953 I'd say go with a McCulloch. They have a few different units and they're affordable and pretty durable. They also have great customer service. I think the mc1275 or mc1375 would be plenty for sewing machines.
@@JesseAkersKnives Thank you for the feedback. For viewers interested here are the manufacturers' webpages for these models; www.mccullochsteam.com/shop/steam-cleaners/mc1275-canister-steam-cleaner
www.mccullochsteam.com/shop/steam-cleaners/mc1375-canister-steam-cleaner
My channel is set up to help the average person repair, maintain, and restore their vintage Singer Machine. If I had a business doing the cleaning it would be worth the $140 to $170 if it worked well on the machine. I know the average person on my channel probably won't spend that to clean one or two machines. I would like to try this though b/c you have the hands-on experience and recommended it. I know there are smaller less costly steamers they make also. The next time I restore a machine I'll look into renting a steamer (I looked today for a little bit, but was only coming up with carpet and wallpaper steamers 👀) or maybe I can find someone to borrow from. I've done so many machines with the Krud Kutter That I quit looking for other ways I guess. I found the KK after trying several chemicals (Singer guys told me they often used kerosine) and the KK was quick and earth-friendly so I've been happy. Thanks again for sharing a good idea on my channel comment section, and for watching my video.
@@JesseAkersKnives I used to have on in France. The best from Italy. But this Mcculloch doesn't have the cloth holder. Instead you have to buy those blue things being held I don't know how. I would use any white cloth and it would remove so much crap from whatever you wanted to clean. In the USA there are very few steam cleaner that do. I found one : Dupray but the price is nuts.
This is a review from a McCulloch :
So I do love the concept, however as a steam machine expert (I have bought numerous steam cleaners I know how to use it correctly)and it takes a lot of time and to go over floors at least three times until they are really good and clean and washing the pad every few fills keeps the floors from streaking around the dirt.. I’ll say after first hour of use the button that locks in the attachments stopped working making every attachment go flying off ! Dangerous!!!! Broke my mirror as it went sailing into it! The gasket that holds the steam in the machine fell apart and the screw cap just started shooting steam all over and nothing came out of the gun. I replaced the gasket on the cap and it’s ok now but the button connecting every attachment still doesn’t work I have to hold it in place the whole time or risk shooting the attachment at whatever I’m cleaning. I also removed he gasket from that piece as well that helped a bit but made random surges of hot water come dripping out either onto my hand or the floor. The attachment brushes only work for a few minutes as the don’t “lock” and just slip on so when the steam heats the plastic it causes it to expand and boom they go shooting off as well. For almost $200 you’d think it’s not ROCKET science here it’s a tea kettle with a wand… someone needs to better design this thing. Secondly I got a bissel hand held steam shot from wal mart for $30 and it won’t mop the floor but it’s a WAY better product. So I’m returning this beautiful disappointment and investing the money in Bitcoin as I’ll probably make out better. I’m not mad writing this either it’s just a clean freaks PSA.
The one I had in France was from Polti.
I’m so glad I tuned into this video. I’m in the middle of restoring a 500A. I think it’s the grimiest machine I’ve ever seen. Thick black and brown grease and oil everywhere. And it’s all dried up. I’ve taken most of the parts off, except I cannot loosen, as of now, three screws-they seem stuck and stuck but good. I can’t get the faceplate that covers the stitch width lever off because one of the little brass screws won’t loosen, therefore I can’t remove the feed regulator. Then, screw that holds the bobbin winder spindle bracket to the frame has rusted in place, it seems. And, the clamping screw that holds the hinge pin for the vibrating bracket isn’t budging for me. (I did get the rest of the vibrating bracket parts off, just not the hinge pin and its screw) So, now what, I said to myself. How the heck am I going to clean those parts without taking them off the body? Well, you showed how to do it in this video, with nearly all the machine parts attached. I feel so much more comfortable now. I won’t be ready to wash the body for a while as I’m busy cleaning the many parts I did take off-very tedious-I can see why people would not want to remove everything.
I feel the frustration of screws like that. Oh, man. I've found that heat (hair dryer) can help sometimes. WD40 still works. For the last broken/rusted screw, I had to use The Must for Rust, a drop every couple of hours, over a couple of days. Very easy does it to protect the nearby paint. If I were making this video again, I would suggest using lower concentrations of the KK to water, to begin with. You can always go to a stronger one if needed. Tedious is a great description for removing so many parts. For me, the reward of a spotless machine was satisfying enough to justify it in most cases. Music or sports on in the background and slowly/surely dismantle. You never saw it in my videos, but on the side wall, I keep pictures of all the machines I restored along with close-up shots of certain areas. When I was frustrated I would stop, stretch, and review those pictures, haha. Take care, Carole, and nice to hear you are saving another machine. ( I'd name it Stormy if it was mine ⛈)
Thanks so much for your advice, Andy. I chose to re-cover the screws in liquid wrench or WD-40, let sit (at least overnight), heat, then repeat and repeat. I got the screws as hot as my hair dryer would allow. I got the screws to the hinge pin and the bobbin winder spindle bracket loose! What a relief! I’m still working on the little brass screw. It’s swathed in WD-40 today. I must remember to have patience that you so often mention in your tutorials for this kind of work. I’m working on it; it does pay off! Stormy and I are both very happy.
@@carolemagnusson5044 Virtue... a state of moral excellence... patience was a hard-learned virtue for me but I finally got there. Mom called me hot boy as a kid and always asked where's the fire buddy? haha. it does give worthy payback though. I hesitated to mention one other method b/c those little screws are so soft. You may have seen me, and others, tapping on a screwdriver while turning it to loosen screws. I've always been hesitant to do that on such a soft screw, but I have found just a couple three fairly good raps on the screwdriver head (without turning) have helped at times. Something about jarring the screw and breaking the "seal" of the threads maybe. At your own risk and your satisfaction may vary 😀
Well, that little brass screw is just not going to loosen! So it’s off to the shower for Stormy. I’ve got to clean up my work area first to make room for pre-cleaning, and get the shower ready (backyard, big plastic tub, garden hose). So maybe I will soak the screw some more in Liquid Wrench while I get things ready. I think Stormy will turn out nicely. All the parts are cleaned and ready to go. I much appreciate all your advice.
@@carolemagnusson5044 I think Stormy will be great b/c I know of your work. Don't feel defeated by the screw, but live to fight another day, haha. Let Stormy have her small victory in that battle while you win the war. She'll learn to be grateful for your kind and loving restoration work and perform beautifully.
Hi Andy, unfortunately we have very iron rich well water at home so I won't be able to clean my machines this way. I will be introducing rust throughout. Love your videos.
Thanks for watching my channel. Sorry about your well water. The Kroger store down the street from me has a machine selling drinking water for 30 cents per gallon. 10 gallons should be enough. If you change your mind. Take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 Ohhh, thank you. I never thought of that.
@@donnasmith2720 No worries. Before I got the new shower head I filled a 5-gallon bucket and used a 1-quart dipper for rinsing. The spray head just makes it a little quicker.
I'm flabbergasted and happy at the same time. I always had the idea to hose a sewing machine down, but haven't found a good degreaser since I live in Europe. Do you know the Ph value of the Krud Kutter you use? And does it have a citrus/lemon smell?
I use the Original Cleaner & Degreaser formula of Krid Kutter. It has a ph of 12.5 - 13.0 Here is the free SDS (Safety Data Sheet with the info about it. www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/339798.pdf This formula has a very mild odor but no citrus or lemon tones. A neutral odor, water-based. Here is the product page www.rustoleum.com/en/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter/cleaners-and-stain-removers/original-krud-kutter#tab-1 This product is made by Rustoleum and they have several newer formulas of the Krud Kutter line. I do not know what the other scents are like except the rust remover "The Must for Rust" works very well but has a stronger musty odd smell so I always use ventilation with it. Here is the main Brand Page for the KK Cleaners;
www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/krud-kutter Thanks for watching my channel.
Andy, I have an older 99 without the tension dial etc and the spring has its tail over the discs also the wiring is directly into the motor and the bed surface is all pitted from the metal foot having been stored there in the bentwood case. Should I get some black paint to fill? Even with all these issues the decals are good! Except where pitting or chipping has happened.
I've never tried paint, but a friend recently restored a 201-2 and used a paint scratch and fill product. Here it is: www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-EACC04410-Exact-Match-Automotive-Touch-Up/dp/B01BPGFWPU
BTW, since you commented on this video I want to be sure you know DO NOT use Krud Kutter on an old black Singer. I've been told it harms the finish, so just an FYI
I dont know how to send you a picture.
@@debbiepring2236 can't send through RUclips but if you post it online somewhere let me know.
Do you show the featherweight 221 as well? Im having trouble getting my feet cover off? Its def rusty as are the feet .Also how to oil it in general. I like how you teach.
Thank you. I have a 26-video Playlist for Model 221 that includes cleaning videos: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIA1OPw0k6QOSTE-wAUZ4kp This family company is famous for knowing everything about Featherweights. They have a wonderful "Schoolhouse" section with many fine videos for working on and maintaining the machines.
singer-featherweight.com/ Thanks for watching my channel, and good luck.
Hi Andy.........glad to see you.
Very kind of you to stop by, and thanks very much. 🙏
This is such a helpful video! I have two 401 machines that I hope to return to their former glory and usefulness. Im planning to start with the one that doesn't actually work and then depending on how that goes, to work on the one that I use all the time. Is there another video that has more information about the 401 that I should watch first? I know its much more complex in the arm mechanisms than the 404.
Thanks. Yes, the 401A model is more complex, with more parts and a true camstack vs the pattern selector system of the 403A.
FYI, here is my main PLAYLIST page to bookmark. 90% of my videos are on this page, organized into Playlists by model number;
ruclips.net/channel/UCUSPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4wplaylists One of those playlists is for model 401A; ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO and has videos of all those extra parts and the camstack. The Playlist for model 403A has more part removal and repair than this cleaning video; ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg Some viewers do want to disassemble their machine more for cleaning and the playlists can help with that. Many viewers did not want to or can not do so much disassemble, so I made this video for cleaning with removing minimum numbers of parts. There are Playlists for foot pedals, motors, and tension assemblies. Something for everyone, I guess 😊 I hope they will help you with your goals for your 401A machines. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Andy, I am interested in cleaning the black vintage Singer machines that have shellac finishes and decals. I cannot find mineral spirits or kerosene. I have read that some people use diesel fuel. I am most interested in cleaning the mechanical parts of the machines. I have also read where some people use Marvel Mystery oil. What are your thoughts?
I have used the Krud Kutter Cleaner & Degreaser for many years to clean parts and insides of the body of the machine. I've only done a couple of black finished models. Here is a playlist of 16 videos for cleaning. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKK8O1UvRsU-eNo2G2yX3f2G You can look at the list and watch the Featherweight 221 videos and the 99K video to get some ideas. It would be hard to find anyone more knowledgeable than the featherweight shop when it comes to refurbishing the black finishes. You can find their tutorial page here and navigate to the section you like: singer-featherweight.com/blogs/schoolhouse/tagged/maintenance Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Any reason not to try this on an early 70s Kenmore? It's stuck in stretch stitch and I'm looking at buying a new machine. But I have sentimental attachment to the old girl... it's the machine I learned to sew on. Oddly enough the previous owners of our house left a jug of crud cutter in the garage... almost feels like a sign. :-D
Is it best to keep the lightbulb in for some reason? I would worry about breaking it.
It's a sign ✨ I don't do Kenmore machines, but let me say the Krud Kutter is OK for iron, steel, aluminum, glass, vinyl, rubber, plastic, and most paints. Don't use it on an old black machine with varnish-type coating. I have found I can use a light concentration of the KK to water, like 25% KK to 75% water will clean most machines nicely. It's only the really dried-out grease on gear teeth that needs stronger. Just try a small area on the bottom of the machine. Getting the machine super dry afterward is a must. I usually leave the light bulb in b/c the socket inside is rarely dirty, but feel free to remove it for cleaning if you like, no harm. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Thank you, very informative !
Thanks for watching my channel. 🙏
Andy, thanks for the great lesson. We are washing a singer 66 treadle. One question: do you use hot water in the shower or could we do it with a power nozzle, outside with a hose? Our shower head is not a wand. Thanks again. I've learned so much.
First, yes, rinsing outside with a hose is how I started. I did not use a power nozzle, just the flow out of the hose. The chemical does most of the work. In Phoenix, it is often too dang hot outside, so I installed the shower nozzle. Don't let the rinse off get on tender plants or grass. My main concern for you is the finish of your model 66. Many Black Singer machines have a varnished or lacquered finish and I've been told the krud kutter can harm it, so depending on the quality of your finish you may want to test a small area, like under the motor, or just do not use the KK on the outside finish. I've also read that getting the finish wet is not good as there can be tiny cracks in the finish and if water gets inside and under the varnish, it can make it much worse. Please be careful. I've only done 2 black machines, a model 99K and a Featherweight 221. Here are links to how I cleaned those machines: featherweight inside: ruclips.net/video/lz2xV3zfvJE/видео.html Featherweight outside: ruclips.net/video/nZKAVHfUQoc/видео.html Cleaning inside & outside of a model 99K: ruclips.net/video/w6fn-TSOCYo/видео.html
Could you show me a video of a Kenmore 158.13180.I have one of these good machines and have the top off,I also have the aluminum rectangular piece loosened, because I took out the 3 screws and then a spring has came out part way and can't seem to get it back together. I believe that the zigzag is not working right is why I took the that apart. Thanks for all you do.😊
Oops. I don't do Kenmore, Gary. You can buy an Instruction Manual here that maybe will help: manualsoncd.com/product/kenmore-158-1318-158-13180-sewing-machine-manual/
You may be able to buy a Service Manual: www.ebay.com/itm/122165564317 sewconsult.com/product/kenmore-158-series-general-service-manual/
This was a very interesting video and may help with some of the problems I have. Thanks Andy.
😇2023 in November
Thank you for watching. I appreciate your nice comment.
omg! I think you (Andy Tube) are answering questions! SO I have one. When is the regular sewing machine applied and when is the TriFLow lubricant applied. I got the lube on the gears part but cannot see the difference when you are applying oil. And where do I acquire the long tube applier for the TriFlow lubricant. My sewing machine oil has one on the bottle already. THANKS! Getting it together to make the plunge next weekend. 503A
Okay, let me try and clear this up. I use triflow clear synthetic grease on the metal gears and the textolite gear of the hand wheel. I use the triflow oil where metal rubs on metal so all of the factory oil ports shown in the instruction manual and my video like the shaft bushings, the needle bar, pressure bar, the bobbin case, race of the hook, etc. I use regular sewing machine oil because it's cheaper on the bare metal parts that I have stripped all the grease and oil off of like the arm shafts on the outside, the bottom shafts for the hook and feed system and so forth. I just want some oil on those to prevent future rust. I prefer the triflow oil on the metal friction parts because it has PTFE in it and that's like Teflon and it. It reduces the friction on those metal parts so I'm hoping they will wear less and last longer. But on metal parts that don't have friction, I feel like the regular cheaper sewing machine oil is just fine. Thanks very much for watching my channel and keeping your machine in service
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you SOOOOO much!! I got the grease on gears bit but just was confused on when to use TriFLow oil vs regular sewing oil. You certainly cleared all that up! I'm going out today to get my last thing on the tools list: TriFlow lubricant oil. You are AMAZING and SO incredibly helpful! After this 503A (it goes to twin 14 year old girls) then I will do my vintage Brother! I'm sure I can handle that after all your lessons here! Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!
@@samibear4092 sure, you're very welcome. I usually get the triflow online but locally I have found it in some bicycle repair shops and one small family owned hardware store. Good luck and I love you giving that to a couple of young girls. It will last their lifetime no problem and it can sew just about anything they can dream of.
Excellent video.thank you
Glad you liked it!
Oh my! Do I have my work cut out for me. My sister gave me her machine 503a. It is so dirty.It has been in her basement for twenty years. Dirt and rust and dried oil red grease.
Do you need to wipe the rust remover off or clean after using it?
What you clean with rust remover should be free of dirt and oil. I usually wipe off any excess rust remover when finished and you especially want to wipe chrome & aluminum off with water on a rag, then buff dry. Always try a small area first. I usually brush a little oil on all the clean metal as shown in the video, but the rust remover by itself prevents rust for up to a year. I have several other videos that may help with your "New" 503A if you find it needs a little adjusting after it is clean. 21 videos for model 503A: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX Also 26 videos for model 403A which is the same mechanically: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKKyqvdDRwS-9MfLuwSNJTcg If you did not get the manual with your machine you can still download a free copy from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=503
Good luck, Kimberly; the vintage Singer machines clean up very nicely.
Love your videos. I was wondering how would the 404 work with tex 69 or 90 using a leather needle on garment leather 3-4oz?
Probably, George. Page 5 on the Instruction Manual has a needle/thread chart that shows up to a size 18 needle. A free instruction manual is here: www.singer.com/search/support?title=404 There are several online references that show tex 69 uses a size 18 needle. Here is just one of many: www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=needles_thread_size_chart I don't know if you'd need to reset the tension with a heavieer thread. That depends on the particular machine. I have a whole series of tension videos for model 404: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJaeFB_GW97NsW5GYM7KD9U You may be able to modify the machine to take a size 20 needle for the tex 90 thread. Besides adjusting tension you may need to move the hook a tiny bit farther from the needle point. Page 144 of the service manual has instruction for doing that. A free copy of the Service Manual for Class 401 machines is available here: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf Thanks for watching my channel, George, and good luck. P.S. For sure use a leather needle!!
@@andytubesewing1953 Andy, thank you so much for the detailed information. I will follow your recommendations. I am using a leather needle. The biggest I found was 19. However, I know there are some #20 around. Thanks again.
@@georgesanchez9971 Sure, and good luck.
My brand new singer has a bad smell. i have chemical sensitivity so i can't use it. do i need to take some of it apart and wipe out whatever smelly oil they used. smells like a car repair shop and replace it with versa oil?
I can't advise you about a new model that I've never worked on. Mostly plastic. I would ask Singer Support about it. In general on the older vintage machines I have cleaned them without removing a single part by spraying a 15% solution of the KrudKutter and then rinsing with a clean water spray. Afterward, you must dry, dry, dry the machine. None of those vintage machines have electronic boards or chips in them but that is what would concern me with a new plastic machine.
Super, super video! Thank you so much. I’ve taken a hands on class for my vintage/antique machines where I disassembled everything, and now I have another method for my toolbox and can watch it whenever needed. I can’t thank you enough. I have about a dozen 301s to keep maintained, one of which smells so strongly of cigarettes I can’t use it. I’m nervous about dunking it in the shower; but willing to give it a try. My friend has a 401 that we couldn’t find a new drip pad for, so I was happy to see it could be cleaned. Now to go back through your playlist and learn so more. One quick question... can you list some of your favorite resources for ordering parts? Thanks again!
The "Coco" playlist can help you with your 301A. Here are a few sellers on eBay I have used for years. IMO, all are honest and reliable. The rare mistakes ever made were corrected immediately. www.ebay.com/str/Central-Michigan-Sewing-Supplies?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 www.ebay.com/str/Lovebug-Sew-N-go?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 www.ebay.com/str/SHARP-SEWING-SUPPLIES?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 www.ebay.com/str/SewVacUsa?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 For vintage replacement parts, like oil pans, needle bars, motors, tension assemblies, I buy from whoever has them for sale b/c the parts come and go often and quickly. Thanks for watching my channel. BTW, removing tobacco odors is easy with the Krud Kutter. If it cleaned this mouse house of a machine it will clean your smelly one, no worries.
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJS_4FKPb4bgAbHtYWnexvy
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks so much!!
@@texstylust Sure. Not trying to overwhelm you, but I have 30+ videos for servicing model 301. The Coco series:
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLZyGebzS_oISgesXNyREyI and the Technical Series: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKI_6fbu3itbd1v4z3uQvvkO Finally, with a $10 Diamond Stone you can speed up your machines motors spending about 5 minutes per machine. It's an immediate performance increase until you can properly service them: ruclips.net/video/pzq4tv8qn94/видео.html Thanks for watching Andy Tube.
Andy, have considered using an ultrasonic cleaner? Using it with either the soap solution or crud cleaner diluted solution. Should vibrate all those loose items clean in a short period. I’m in dentistry and we use the ultrasonic unit with an enzymatic solution cleaner to vibrate the instruments clean before sterilization. Just a thought.
A good thought, Grace. I do have an UltraSonic cleaner and here is my video about it: ruclips.net/video/EI_3eZ89E2Y/видео.html
It does a good job and there are still a few items I clean using it. Very bad steel gears, for example, and it does very well cleaning a fancy chrome faceplate of the older black machines. I just usually clean them by hand as I can do it when/if I please and it is quiet too, so on a sleepless night of pain I don't disturb anyone at 3 AM.
Hi Andy, thanks for your video. I have a question, I am trying to take off the wheel with my singer 411g like you did but it is not coming, do I have to do something more ?
I've never seen any of the German-made Singer machines, but viewers have told me they are very similar to the US-made slant machines. If the parts on your 411G look similar to the machine in this video then I would say that the wheel is stuck onto the counterbalance by old, dried-up oil/grease.
I have encountered that a few times. I usually try heat first by using a hair dryer for a few minutes. The heat can soften that old gunk enough to get the wheel free. Once it starts to move it gets easier and easier. I usually hold onto the needle bar assembly while trying to turn the wheel back and forth to get it moving. I use an old leather garden glove to hold onto the wheel b/c it's very hot at that point.
If that does not work I will soak the handwheel with penetrating oil, like WD40. I apply it where the hole in the handwheel slides onto the counterbalance on the arm shaft. I often take the nose cover off and prop up the machine nose end down so the wheel faces straight up and drip the oil on there.
I will wait about 30 minutes and try twisting the wheel as I described before. If no luck I will start using heat on the oiled area. It kind of blows the oil around but that wipes right off later.
I have freed up the wheel in 5 minutes and had others that have taken overnight soakings.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for your response and the time that you took ! 🙂I have another question, it's about the camstack. I already watched your video showing how to remove and clean it. I followed the instructions, but in the moment that I would like to put it back inside it seems to be stuck and it's not passing... I mean that in your video it seems to slide easily.
In my case I can giggle all I want but it's not going down as it should....
I will thank you your time again because I don't find an answer again of this new problem 😭
Have nice day Andy!
@@claudiamanriquealejos1300 Could you please ask this question on the video you watched about the camstack? Thank you
Hi Andy! Thank you for this video!. I'm a broke student who bought a Singer Stylist 533 online and I've learnt so much from your videos about fixing it up. I've been watching your series on the 513 in particular and I was wondering if you could point me to any video/other resource on how to replace the 4 plastic gears at the bottom ( - I believe they're for the rotating hook drive and the feed drive.) I've ordered the gears already but I have no idea how to actually replace the old ones myself. Thank you!
Here is the most popular video for the gears: ruclips.net/video/qHx6VPdenj0/видео.html You can also buy a copy of the Service Manual ($5) IT does show removing the shafts for replacement, which would include the gears. manualsoncd.com/product/singer-500-sewing-machine-service-manual-518-538-513-514-533/
If you'd like a guide written by a Singer Master Technician you can buy that here: store.tandtrepair.com/st4134164185.html
It's $10.95 but use my coupon code for 20% off andy-h-yt Good luck and thanks for saving that machine!
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much!
Hi Andy, Thank You!! I am thoroughly enjoying watching your videos. I really appeciate your efforts to educate us on the care of our machines. I recently acquired a Singer 401A. Unfortunately, I am quite obsessive about the cleanliness of my electronics of any kind. So I have watched your video about the easiest way to clean and degrease my sewing machine. However, internally your demo machine is not as complicated parts wise as my 401A. I can remove and clean the cam stack based on your other video but I am concerned about how I would go about cleaning all of the other complicated parts using the bathtub method. Any advice you could give me would be very much appreciated. Thank You!
Thanks for watching my channel, Rita. Yes, the model 404 in this video is the Heavy Duty Straight Stitch brother to your 401A and the mechanics are very simple. If you want to do a deeper cleaning of your 401A it can involve more parts removals. (that's why I called it the "easier" way to clean in this video) I have several videos that can help you. In fact I have 65 videos that can relate to the parts removal, replacement, adjusting, cleaning of your 401A. There are three Playlists you can take a look at to decide for yourself. 1. Models 401A Playlist is 17 videos: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKLiDl9yFTP6mJgQmz5lj4NO Model 403A (another brother) is 27 videos, and Model 503A (cousin machine) has 21 videos: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJZaZn2zl3LsnV2d7UhrqvX Some of the videos are for the same part of the machines, like the needle bar, presser bar, etc. I'll say that the more parts you remove for cleaning, the better total results of the cleaning, but I'll also say that cleaning without removing the parts requires more precleaning on the bench with cleaner and brushes, but you end up with a 90 to 95% clean machine. You may notice this in the other videos. I'll also add that I have come to use weaker solutions of the cleaner after testing and have settled on about a 15 to 20% of the Krud Kutter to water. Sometimes I use stronger like when the gears are just impacted with dried black and hard gunk. I have never figured out what that gooey over-sticky black stuff is but find it occasionally. The results of a weaker solution on some of the metal results in less chance of spot rust forming. I also suggest having the 401A Service Manual on hand as a guide while doing and parts removal, installation, adjusting. I try to be thorough in my videos, but having a written guide, with diagrams, can be helpful. You can download a FREE copy of the manual from Sewing Dude at this link: sewingdude.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/singer-401-service-manual1.pdf Best of luck then.
@@andytubesewing1953 Andy, Thank you so much for your reply. I have watched several of your videos thus far and will definitely watch your complete playlist. I have been taking notes as I watch because it helps me to find portions of your videos that I especially want to remember. Your mention of flash rust was a little intimidting but it is very helpful to know that a weaker Krud Kutter solution will help with this. I am excited about owning this machine and look forward to sewing with it. Fortunately, I am not in any hurry and I want to do everything right from the beginning. Thank you again! Rita in Philly
@@ritagoldman7232 I know it will turn out beautiful for you. You have a great approach to doing the work. Your machine is 60 years old now, but can easily go 60 more years, and longer, with normal lubrication. I had a retired SInger man from Canada tell me years ago that my machines were cleaner that the ones they sold in the stores. You know where to find me if needed. Take care.
That's amazing I am not sure if I'm brave enough to try this though lol.
It can seem intimidating; I know I was when I first started working on the machines.
Some folks try spot cleaning here and there, and some just try one part, like the presser bar or needle bar to see how it goes. When they see how clean the part can get they often are encouraged to continue. Thank you for watching my channel and take care.