Great video. I have a 66k 1920 hand crank the stitches are still perfect and the machine runs beautifully. My 66k has been through 2 world wars and it looks like it has. I will now give it the cleaning it deserves I won't over clean because it's only original once and I like the hard life look. Many thanks for sharing. ❤❤❤
I totally understand, I love how years of use give these machines character but they still make excellent stitches. When I see the little scuffs and scratches it makes me think of all the things they have been through and the people who sewed on them. Thanks for commenting!
I clean mine up real good and sprayed it with lacquer.. one real light coat. .looks awesome awesome ...1950 k66 the original cabinet with stool... And all the accessories whatever they do.
Nice! I haven't tried any painting or lacquer myself yet. Thankfully I have painters with a better set up for that than I do. Sounds like you have a lovely machine!
Wow! What a difference at 13:30! That is shiny! My 201 has ruined a finish just like yours! This polishing vid is what I am gonna be working on for the next few weeks! Thanks!
Oh happy day! I’m so glad that your channel came up on my feed. At the prompting of a long distance friend I just bought a Singer Treadle sewing machine (#27) off of F/B marketplace place. The gal I got it from said she bought it 30 years ago, never used it, just been in storage. It’s understandably not in the best shape, but the beautiful decals are still looking good! So I plan to take my time and this will become a labor of love to restore this beautiful machine & cabinet. I subscribed & will be poring over your videos/ thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.💕
I just acquired a Singer Featherweight 221 sewing machine. It is a bit dirty and dull. After watching your videos, I can see the beautiful machine when restored to k original beauty. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Hi! You can clean a 301 with the techniques I share in this video. If it is a tan/mocha 301 then you won't have to worry about damaging the finish as much as if it were a black one. Just be careful with it if it has black paint. I hope that helps!
Great video. I've just started collecting sewing machines, and although it's lovely to have a nice shiny machine, I don't mind if it has the odd ding as it's part of its history. I have one whose bed has been broke in half and repaired. It's still a Bonnie wee machine and was used for .any years after the repair. I guess it's up to the individual what they want. 😊
Hi! I am as well! The 201 will be easier in some ways I think except for the motor and wiring. A little different set-up and you need a LOT more grease! Can’t wait to tackle it!
I don't know much about applying lacquer to metal, but with wood, layer upon layer can be built by buffing it into the previous finish, , ,since the lacquer is alcohol soluble, the new layer slightly dissolves the dried layer, and puts another coat on top, it is done by hand, and that is how that high gloss finish was (is) applied to grand pianos. (see also French Polish)
That is correct! I am hoping to try the method out one day, I would love to see if I could get the results that I have seen others get. It really would be a great option if the lacquer was degraded at all, maybe it would bring some life back to it. I have watched a lot of videos where others have done it. It is on my bucket list. :)
@@SewingMachineRehab I wish you great success. I hope it's easy, and turns out fine. I'm looking at different light bulbs also. I don't know how hot these get, I messaged the company, but today is Labor Day, and it's closed. SYLVANIA 58831 - CAX-120 It is the correct configuration to fit the machine, , , the Base in the singer is a : BA15d and the bulb is also. The advantage is ; from what I understand,, closer to true than LED or fluorescent, and it's 750 Lumens.
Thank you. I looked at that bulb, I think that they would get hot, at least more than the LED. I know you can buy at least two different tones in the LED, I tend to go with the warm white. However, if it were in a machine like the 301 or the 404 series I don't think the heat would matter as much because you tend to touch around that area less. I think the 221's and any of the vintage models with the lamp on the back would be the ones I would want to use the LED lights in, just because you tend to touch or bump those shades a little more easily.@@thomasgronek6469
@@SewingMachineRehab I am really torn, I like the warm white, and have them in my favorite lamps, unfortunately, at 64 I need something more intense and color-true, (rather color blind as it is). I have an original bulb in the 301 and it’s great, just not bright enough (I polished the inside of the cover but it still isn’t strong enough) , (I used Mother’s aluminum polish, for that, and ( don’t cringe or throw things at me, , , the whole machine). It worked fine for me, but variations of paint formulations might not make it very nice on other machines, even changes from year to year could have made that decision a very bad one
@@thomasgronek6469 I missed this reply, well....if it worked then no harm done! But, I agree that it could have less fortunate results on a different machine. Hope you found a bulb you are happy with!
I have to say I was terrified when you started rubbing over the decals 😱 if I did that on mine they’d surely rub off. I noticed you also rubbed the badge at the front? Is that how you shine those up? Thanks 🙏🏼
Yes, each machine should be looked at individually when it comes to the decals. Then always test in a place that is kind of hidden. Some will be fine and others maybe not so much. The badges have such a beautiful patina, I usually use a little cleaner wax or just buff them with a soft cloth. If you use a polish for brass it will clean them so well that they look odd in my opinion, too new or something. But it is really just preference. Hope that helps!
I just bought a 66 with the cabinet. I had intended to just use the cabinet and get a Janome treadle machine. Now I'm considering cleaning up the 100 year old machine too. The lacquer is crackling in some places and has minor rust etc but it's too pretty for me to stash it in the garage. The accompanying dirt dauber nests were free of charge. What did I get myself into...
If one is doing a French polish with shellac, it dried in 20 minutes, , , ,very quick indeed. I still haven't tested the 301 to see if it's shellac or lacquer, at which point, a new clear coat could be applied to the old coats if it isn't falling off.
Yes, understandable, Lacquer and shellac are frequently interchanged when spoken about, and I'm sure there are things that take a long time. It took 3 weeks for one of my concoctions for wood to dry (First coat), it contained varnish, beeswax, and unboiled linseed oil. I've worked with wood, never metal, which takes longer I would guess, because metal doesn't absorb anything. Have no fears, everything is fixable, (ust maybe not easy). @@SewingMachineRehab
Hi! It depends on the condition of the clear coat. If it is fairly intact then definitely not. I have never had this wax damage a decal, even when the clear coat was questionable. Always test it out in a less conspicuous spot before waxing the whole machine. I hope that helps!
After watching this video, I purchased a bottle of Zymol Cleaner Wax. It made such an improvement on my 1908 Singer 27 treadle machine named Iris. Nothing I tried in the past worked the way this product did. Do you have any suggestions for cleaning a 1941 Singer 99 with a crinkle finish? It was my mother's machine and is in very good condition, but cleaning that surface is a challenge. Thanks so much for all your instructive videos!
Zymol is so great! The crinkle finish is a little more difficult but it can be done. I use a damp rag to wipe it down and dry quickly after. If the rag leaves lint, I vacuum it off :) Any grimy places you can use sewing machine oil or a penetrating oil to try to get it off. I don’t try to wax the crinkle finishes, just oil and then wipe as much of it away as possible. Hope that helps!
I use Mineral Spirits as a degreaser/ cleaner. I use 0000 soft steel wool dipped in mineral spirits and rub circular motion on entire sewing machine. It won't destroy the sealer coat if you work fast, and wipe off with dry towels, then a sanitizing wipe (water, alcohol, bleach). This kills bacteria, removes dirt and grease. On the inside, unpainted side, scrub with mineral spirits to remove all yellow grease and gummy oil. Wipe off. Rub down with alcohol. Use this technique for the metal guts too, MS then alcohol. Puppy pad to protect paint. Soap and water also work well with a soft teflon sponge, careful on decals. On severely damaged machines, dismantle body and sand blast it with glass beads, then spray paint. Or hand sand down. I would use a primer before painting. No reason to live with peeling paint. Just repaint in bright colors. Give it a clear oil based poly coating for shine and durability. I would use 0000 steel wool + car polish to buff out the rough finish on the 201 machine. That should give you a satin feel.
Hi! Yes, you can but I don’t think it does much. I prefer to use a dremel and a white polishing compound on the chrome plated parts. Unless they are really rusted and pitted a good cleaning is all they need to make them usable, the rest is just fluff. Do what you can and then enjoy the fruits of your labor!
Hi! Yes I have. I love everything from the Featherweight shop except for that. It works but not as well. It also smells like shoe polish (to me) and it’s a two step process. When doing an entire machine it’s nice to not have to go over everything twice. I wish I could say that I loved the Sew Retro Clean and Shine but it’s the one thing I just haven’t warmed up to. Hope that helps!
Mine seems quite worn so I have just cleaned with the baby water wipes and paper I probably won’t use the wax because don’t think it will make much difference then
Good call, sometimes it’s best to just leave it as is. I always test in a small inconspicuous area and then decide if I should invest any more elbow grease in polishing the body. Sometimes the finish is just shot but thankfully the finish never affects how well the machine can run!
Has anyone used or tried automotive polishing compound ? I've had great success when I use it on old sunbeam mixers. Rubbing compound is way too aggressive. Is the finish on very old Singers Japanning not paint ?. Looks great, thanks for the video.
I haven’t tried it, at least I don’t think I have. Is there a particular brand you were thinking of or could you give one as an example? I will look into it for sure, always looking for better ways!
@@SewingMachineRehabfor lack of a known micron information, I used Mother’s aluminum polish (10,000 micron grit, which is aluminum oxide). I can’t say to use it , my vesults might be unique. Best of fun and success to everyone.
@ I will! Haven’t been to town to get some yet. On the weekend I picked up a 99K in pristine condition for $30 AU I’ve never felt the paintwork so good! Love it 😊
Hi! I am trying out the Sony ZV-E10. Just with the kit lense. I also use a DJI wireless mic. I edit in Final Cut Pro. I am about to shoot my second video with the camera, changing some settings this time. I had been using my iphone up until now, and I have to say it shot great video. Hoping I like this camera even more!
What is the sewing machine oil that you are using? I have 3-in-1, but I understand that is not what you are referringing to. I am buying to start a few restorations.
Industrial pure mineral/synthetic sewing machine oil with viscosities from 15 to 30. For example, what is for industrial sewing machines such as Yuki and Brother. It is packed in 0.5 to 3 liters bottles and much cheaper than brand oil.
Hi! You know, when it comes to sewing machine oil all you really need is a Lily White. My guess is that most sewing machine oils on the market is really just Lily White, sold under different label names. I could be wrong but it just makes sense. You can purchase a decent sized bottle on Amazon and it will last you a long time. It is clear and truly a great oil for sewing machines. I don’t go for anything that has any kind of additive like teflon, even though I used to when I first started working on machines. I find the further along I go in my journey, the more of a purist I become. I hope that helps!
Do you mean an oil like Lily White? What is in the 3 in 1? I am interested in the different viscosities, do you think it matters when it comes to cleaning the machine with oil vs. actually oiling the moving parts?
Dear All: Note: This is NOT advice, this is NOT a recommendation, these are NOT instructions. These are test results: On a surface of a 1952, black 301 with fine small crazing, I applied 95% ethanol with a Q-tip and lightly rubbed back and forth, , , let it dry, and repeated. then polished the dull surface with Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish. Most of the crazing was gone, but the polishing was not fast, it took a long time to bring back the luster. this was done on a small broken bed extension, that could have been easily stripped and shellac reapplied if necessary. I would conclude that the clear coat is shellac, for that year, and that model, I have no idea if it was changed a month later, or not at all. the results apply to this machine only. the results might extend to other models and other years. I do not know. My best to everyone.
Thanks for your time and attention on this, do you think that the old shellac was redistributed or do you think it was removed in the process? If the shellac is totally removed then the paint underneath can be polished to a shine but usually the decals are silvered. And you will see imperfections in the paint. I have removed or polished away the shellac and could still shine the paint that was underneath. It is fun to experiment and I appreciate you sharing your results!
You are welcome, I'm happy to share my results. I think it was redistributed after the first attempt due to the fact that the second attempt had that shellac stickyness when I started the second round, but it is rather thin from what I can tell, and pondered the same question when i finished the second application of ethanol. It wouldn't surprise me if the shellac is gone at any given time during the process. I continued on last night an added 4 fresh coats of WellerMart Platina color shellac (Platina is the lightest color I could find, lighter than super blond [edit; addition: A home blended, one pound cut was used (1 pound /gallon of ethanol, I scaled it down ] ). It now sits covered with four coats, but is still dull. I will make my first attempt ever with french polishing, But I will practice on a piece of wood, then do the extension. One is supposed to wait a day between french polish layers, (three are recommended), so I might not reporting results for at least a week. Up until now, this has not been quick and easy, I don't see it getting easier on the whole bed. @@SewingMachineRehab
Well, after pulling my head out of my 1800s, it's aluminum, painted with self-etching primer, then black lacquer, and clear coated with Acrylic clear coat. I'm am almost positive. A diversity of solvents was applied to figure this out. it fits. (By the way, after all the shellacking and french polishing I did, 14 hours of playing with this, , , ,I have the original clear coat, minor damage from the ethanol in a few spots, don't let it soak or sit for prolonged time, the shellac never stuck to the clear coat, I just kept smearing stuff around the surface. I kept thinking it might be japanning, shellac, maybe carbon black for color if not Japanning, or lamp black, , , , they didn't have time for that nonsense, It MIGHT be anodized under the self-etching primer, I can't tell. Sorry for wasting anyone's time, but now I've to figure out how to fix crazing the easy way. I will keep everyone posted. At least I have plenty of shellac to refinish cabinets.
Wow! You have been busy! I think depending on the make and model of the machine you could have different types of clear coats so what applies to one may not apply to another. My guess is you are taking notes as you go though. I hope you get this one sorted to a point that you are satisfied with it and thanks for sharing all you are discovering!
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video. I have a 66k 1920 hand crank the stitches are still perfect and the machine runs beautifully. My 66k has been through 2 world wars and it looks like it has. I will now give it the cleaning it deserves I won't over clean because it's only original once and I like the hard life look. Many thanks for sharing. ❤❤❤
I totally understand, I love how years of use give these machines character but they still make excellent stitches. When I see the little scuffs and scratches it makes me think of all the things they have been through and the people who sewed on them. Thanks for commenting!
I clean mine up real good and sprayed it with lacquer.. one real light coat. .looks awesome awesome ...1950 k66 the original cabinet with stool... And all the accessories whatever they do.
Nice! I haven't tried any painting or lacquer myself yet. Thankfully I have painters with a better set up for that than I do. Sounds like you have a lovely machine!
Wow! What a difference at 13:30! That is shiny! My 201 has ruined a finish just like yours! This polishing vid is what I am gonna be working on for the next few weeks! Thanks!
Oh happy day! I’m so glad that your channel came up on my feed. At the prompting of a long distance friend I just bought a Singer Treadle sewing machine (#27) off of F/B marketplace place. The gal I got it from said she bought it 30 years ago, never used it, just been in storage. It’s understandably not in the best shape, but the beautiful decals are still looking good! So I plan to take my time and this will become a labor of love to restore this beautiful machine & cabinet. I subscribed & will be poring over your videos/ thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.💕
You are very welcome! Thank you for the encouraging words and good luck with your model 27, how fun!
Always great to learn your process. Thank you for sharing. Well put together video.
Enjoying your videos, impressed how you answer all the questions in the comments 👏 its very informative to other subscribers, thank you. 😊
Thank you! So happy you are enjoying the videos!
I just acquired a Singer Featherweight 221 sewing machine. It is a bit dirty and dull. After watching your videos, I can see the beautiful machine when restored to k original beauty. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Congratulations! I hope you enjoy the restoration process as much as I do!
Awesome, I am going to give this a try, thanks again for the series 😁
You are very welcome!
Love your channel! You attention to detail while instructing is wonderful!
Thank you so much!
Thank you so much for your video’s, they are so very helpful! What do you recommend for a 301A?
Hi! You can clean a 301 with the techniques I share in this video. If it is a tan/mocha 301 then you won't have to worry about damaging the finish as much as if it were a black one. Just be careful with it if it has black paint. I hope that helps!
I have both a mocha? and a tan & cream to polish-my only black on is a centennial featherweight.
Great video. I've just started collecting sewing machines, and although it's lovely to have a nice shiny machine, I don't mind if it has the odd ding as it's part of its history. I have one whose bed has been broke in half and repaired. It's still a Bonnie wee machine and was used for .any years after the repair. I guess it's up to the individual what they want. 😊
I agree, the dings tell a story. And that would be a very interesting machine to see! To me, if it stitches well I am a happy girl!
@@SewingMachineRehab hi, I'd be happy to show you a photo if I knew how to upload to RUclips 😊
@@MarleyBu I don’t think there is a way to upload photos in the comments but you can email it to jen@sewingmachinerehab.com
Hi Jen, I’m really looking forward to your 201 series! Just an fyi, it’s shellac not lacquer.
Hi! I am as well! The 201 will be easier in some ways I think except for the motor and wiring. A little different set-up and you need a LOT more grease! Can’t wait to tackle it!
Do you have any tips on the singer 319k I've recently bought one and would love some helpful advice on how to clean her up best x
I don't know much about applying lacquer to metal, but with wood, layer upon layer can be built by buffing it into the previous finish, , ,since the lacquer is alcohol soluble, the new layer slightly dissolves the dried layer, and puts another coat on top, it is done by hand, and that is how that high gloss finish was (is) applied to grand pianos. (see also French Polish)
That is correct! I am hoping to try the method out one day, I would love to see if I could get the results that I have seen others get. It really would be a great option if the lacquer was degraded at all, maybe it would bring some life back to it. I have watched a lot of videos where others have done it. It is on my bucket list. :)
@@SewingMachineRehab I wish you great success. I hope it's easy, and turns out fine. I'm looking at different light bulbs also. I don't know how hot these get, I messaged the company, but today is Labor Day, and it's closed. SYLVANIA 58831 - CAX-120 It is the correct configuration to fit the machine, , , the Base in the singer is a : BA15d and the bulb is also. The advantage is ; from what I understand,, closer to true than LED or fluorescent, and it's 750 Lumens.
Thank you. I looked at that bulb, I think that they would get hot, at least more than the LED. I know you can buy at least two different tones in the LED, I tend to go with the warm white. However, if it were in a machine like the 301 or the 404 series I don't think the heat would matter as much because you tend to touch around that area less. I think the 221's and any of the vintage models with the lamp on the back would be the ones I would want to use the LED lights in, just because you tend to touch or bump those shades a little more easily.@@thomasgronek6469
@@SewingMachineRehab I am really torn, I like the warm white, and have them in my favorite lamps, unfortunately, at 64 I need something more intense and color-true, (rather color blind as it is). I have an original bulb in the 301 and it’s great, just not bright enough (I polished the inside of the cover but it still isn’t strong enough) , (I used Mother’s aluminum polish, for that, and ( don’t cringe or throw things at me, , , the whole machine). It worked fine for me, but variations of paint formulations might not make it very nice on other machines, even changes from year to year could have made that decision a very bad one
@@thomasgronek6469 I missed this reply, well....if it worked then no harm done! But, I agree that it could have less fortunate results on a different machine. Hope you found a bulb you are happy with!
I have to say I was terrified when you started rubbing over the decals 😱 if I did that on mine they’d surely rub off. I noticed you also rubbed the badge at the front? Is that how you shine those up? Thanks 🙏🏼
Yes, each machine should be looked at individually when it comes to the decals. Then always test in a place that is kind of hidden. Some will be fine and others maybe not so much. The badges have such a beautiful patina, I usually use a little cleaner wax or just buff them with a soft cloth. If you use a polish for brass it will clean them so well that they look odd in my opinion, too new or something. But it is really just preference. Hope that helps!
@
Hi, thank you for always replying. That is very much appreciated! Cheers
I just bought a 66 with the cabinet. I had intended to just use the cabinet and get a Janome treadle machine. Now I'm considering cleaning up the 100 year old machine too. The lacquer is crackling in some places and has minor rust etc but it's too pretty for me to stash it in the garage. The accompanying dirt dauber nests were free of charge. What did I get myself into...
If you are able to restore the machine you will be rewarded by a beautiful stitch! Good luck with your project!
If one is doing a French polish with shellac, it dried in 20 minutes, , , ,very quick indeed. I still haven't tested the 301 to see if it's shellac or lacquer, at which point, a new clear coat could be applied to the old coats if it isn't falling off.
I haven’t tried the French polish so good to know yours dried quickly. I have only read that it can take a long time to dry…
Yes, understandable, Lacquer and shellac are frequently interchanged when spoken about, and I'm sure there are things that take a long time. It took 3 weeks for one of my concoctions for wood to dry (First coat), it contained varnish, beeswax, and unboiled linseed oil. I've worked with wood, never metal, which takes longer I would guess, because metal doesn't absorb anything. Have no fears, everything is fixable, (ust maybe not easy). @@SewingMachineRehab
will the wax damage decals?
Hi! It depends on the condition of the clear coat. If it is fairly intact then definitely not. I have never had this wax damage a decal, even when the clear coat was questionable. Always test it out in a less conspicuous spot before waxing the whole machine. I hope that helps!
@SewingMachineRehab thanks. :)
After watching this video, I purchased a bottle of Zymol Cleaner Wax. It made such an improvement on my 1908 Singer 27 treadle machine named Iris. Nothing I tried in the past worked the way this product did. Do you have any suggestions for cleaning a 1941 Singer 99 with a crinkle finish? It was my mother's machine and is in very good condition, but cleaning that surface is a challenge. Thanks so much for all your instructive videos!
Zymol is so great! The crinkle finish is a little more difficult but it can be done. I use a damp rag to wipe it down and dry quickly after. If the rag leaves lint, I vacuum it off :) Any grimy places you can use sewing machine oil or a penetrating oil to try to get it off. I don’t try to wax the crinkle finishes, just oil and then wipe as much of it away as possible. Hope that helps!
Thank you for your suggestions for cleaning my crinkle finish.! @@SewingMachineRehab
Excellent
Thank you so much 😀
I use Mineral Spirits as a degreaser/ cleaner. I use 0000 soft steel wool dipped in mineral spirits and rub circular motion on entire sewing machine. It won't destroy the sealer coat if you work fast, and wipe off with dry towels, then a sanitizing wipe (water, alcohol, bleach). This kills bacteria, removes dirt and grease. On the inside, unpainted side, scrub with mineral spirits to remove all yellow grease and gummy oil. Wipe off. Rub down with alcohol. Use this technique for the metal guts too, MS then alcohol. Puppy pad to protect paint. Soap and water also work well with a soft teflon sponge, careful on decals.
On severely damaged machines, dismantle body and sand blast it with glass beads, then spray paint. Or hand sand down. I would use a primer before painting. No reason to live with peeling paint. Just repaint in bright colors. Give it a clear oil based poly coating for shine and durability.
I would use 0000 steel wool + car polish to buff out the rough finish on the 201 machine. That should give you a satin feel.
Can you use that polish on the faceplate? The Crome?
Hi! Yes, you can but I don’t think it does much. I prefer to use a dremel and a white polishing compound on the chrome plated parts. Unless they are really rusted and pitted a good cleaning is all they need to make them usable, the rest is just fluff. Do what you can and then enjoy the fruits of your labor!
Have you used the Sew Renuncia and Sew Polish from the Featherweight Store?
Hi! Yes I have. I love everything from the Featherweight shop except for that. It works but not as well. It also smells like shoe polish (to me) and it’s a two step process. When doing an entire machine it’s nice to not have to go over everything twice. I wish I could say that I loved the Sew Retro Clean and Shine but it’s the one thing I just haven’t warmed up to. Hope that helps!
Mine seems quite worn so I have just cleaned with the baby water wipes and paper
I probably won’t use the wax because don’t think it will make much difference then
Good call, sometimes it’s best to just leave it as is. I always test in a small inconspicuous area and then decide if I should invest any more elbow grease in polishing the body. Sometimes the finish is just shot but thankfully the finish never affects how well the machine can run!
Has anyone used or tried automotive polishing compound ? I've had great success when I use it on old sunbeam mixers. Rubbing compound is way too aggressive. Is the finish on very old Singers Japanning not paint ?. Looks great, thanks for the video.
I haven’t tried it, at least I don’t think I have. Is there a particular brand you were thinking of or could you give one as an example? I will look into it for sure, always looking for better ways!
@@SewingMachineRehabfor lack of a known micron information, I used Mother’s aluminum polish (10,000 micron grit, which is aluminum oxide). I can’t say to use it , my vesults might be unique. Best of fun and success to everyone.
@@SewingMachineRehab Any top brand like Meguiar's or DuPont would be safe
I wish I could get that cleaner wax here in Australia. Does anyone know of a similar product here? I’m thinking maybe mothers? Cheers
I think the Mother’s would work great, let me know if you try it!
@
I will! Haven’t been to town to get some yet. On the weekend I picked up a 99K in pristine condition for $30 AU I’ve never felt the paintwork so good! Love it 😊
What Camera kit are you using now?
Hi! I am trying out the Sony ZV-E10. Just with the kit lense. I also use a DJI wireless mic. I edit in Final Cut Pro. I am about to shoot my second video with the camera, changing some settings this time. I had been using my iphone up until now, and I have to say it shot great video. Hoping I like this camera even more!
What is the sewing machine oil that you are using? I have 3-in-1, but I understand that is not what you are referringing to. I am buying to start a few restorations.
Industrial pure mineral/synthetic sewing machine oil with viscosities from 15 to 30. For example, what is for industrial sewing machines such as Yuki and Brother. It is packed in 0.5 to 3 liters bottles and much cheaper than brand oil.
Fantastic. Thank you. Where is your favorite place to shop for this? @@Акула-б3х
Hi! You know, when it comes to sewing machine oil all you really need is a Lily White. My guess is that most sewing machine oils on the market is really just Lily White, sold under different label names. I could be wrong but it just makes sense. You can purchase a decent sized bottle on Amazon and it will last you a long time. It is clear and truly a great oil for sewing machines. I don’t go for anything that has any kind of additive like teflon, even though I used to when I first started working on machines. I find the further along I go in my journey, the more of a purist I become. I hope that helps!
Do you mean an oil like Lily White? What is in the 3 in 1? I am interested in the different viscosities, do you think it matters when it comes to cleaning the machine with oil vs. actually oiling the moving parts?
Thank you sooo much. Very helpful . @@SewingMachineRehab
😮❤
Dear All: Note: This is NOT advice, this is NOT a recommendation, these are NOT instructions. These are test results: On a surface of a 1952, black 301 with fine small crazing, I applied 95% ethanol with a Q-tip and lightly rubbed back and forth, , , let it dry, and repeated. then polished the dull surface with Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish. Most of the crazing was gone, but the polishing was not fast, it took a long time to bring back the luster. this was done on a small broken bed extension, that could have been easily stripped and shellac reapplied if necessary. I would conclude that the clear coat is shellac, for that year, and that model, I have no idea if it was changed a month later, or not at all. the results apply to this machine only. the results might extend to other models and other years. I do not know. My best to everyone.
Thanks for your time and attention on this, do you think that the old shellac was redistributed or do you think it was removed in the process? If the shellac is totally removed then the paint underneath can be polished to a shine but usually the decals are silvered. And you will see imperfections in the paint. I have removed or polished away the shellac and could still shine the paint that was underneath. It is fun to experiment and I appreciate you sharing your results!
You are welcome, I'm happy to share my results. I think it was redistributed after the first attempt due to the fact that the second attempt had that shellac stickyness when I started the second round, but it is rather thin from what I can tell, and pondered the same question when i finished the second application of ethanol. It wouldn't surprise me if the shellac is gone at any given time during the process. I continued on last night an added 4 fresh coats of WellerMart Platina color shellac (Platina is the lightest color I could find, lighter than super blond [edit; addition: A home blended, one pound cut was used (1 pound /gallon of ethanol, I scaled it down ] ). It now sits covered with four coats, but is still dull. I will make my first attempt ever with french polishing, But I will practice on a piece of wood, then do the extension. One is supposed to wait a day between french polish layers, (three are recommended), so I might not reporting results for at least a week. Up until now, this has not been quick and easy, I don't see it getting easier on the whole bed. @@SewingMachineRehab
Well, after pulling my head out of my 1800s, it's aluminum, painted with self-etching primer, then black lacquer, and clear coated with Acrylic clear coat. I'm am almost positive. A diversity of solvents was applied to figure this out. it fits. (By the way, after all the shellacking and french polishing I did, 14 hours of playing with this, , , ,I have the original clear coat, minor damage from the ethanol in a few spots, don't let it soak or sit for prolonged time, the shellac never stuck to the clear coat, I just kept smearing stuff around the surface. I kept thinking it might be japanning, shellac, maybe carbon black for color if not Japanning, or lamp black, , , , they didn't have time for that nonsense, It MIGHT be anodized under the self-etching primer, I can't tell. Sorry for wasting anyone's time, but now I've to figure out how to fix crazing the easy way. I will keep everyone posted. At least I have plenty of shellac to refinish cabinets.
Wow! You have been busy! I think depending on the make and model of the machine you could have different types of clear coats so what applies to one may not apply to another. My guess is you are taking notes as you go though. I hope you get this one sorted to a point that you are satisfied with it and thanks for sharing all you are discovering!
Hai parlato per mezz'ora!!! Che palleeeee