Those do break but not as often as on the swingaxles. When they do you need to take the axles out and take them apart in order to swap those; which is a really messy job.
1964 VW owners manual states " leave weight on the wheels, apply sealant to the seam, install with seam at 90 degrees facing the rear with the screw heads on the bottom for ease of install. Check boots at every oil change.
Thanks, guys, for doing a how-to video. These mean a lot to me as I will be working on a basket case 65 bus this spring. I watched the video to the end. Hahaha. Happens to the best of them. I see Jake didn't help free you. He just kept filming.
Great video Gary. You make things look easy to easy. Spot is coming along. Way to sell merch Jake. You guys must've drone this during the freez. Thanks for all the tips on maintenance.
A better way to do the silicone sealant, if you use it at all, is to put it on the inner lip of the boot itself, and then let it dry for 24 hours. Then when you clamp it on the axle tube flange, and axle tube, it will stay in place on the boot, and compress against the surface of the axle tube flange and axle tube, and create a good seal. When you remove it, it will come off with the boot afterwards. A better seal, and easier clean up if you have to replace or remove the boots again. Nice job, and the angle is a great tip. I wish I had known about the angle for the seam before I replaced my transaxle and boots in my '64 but way back in '84.
Old Spot has got to be one of my favorite patina bugs! Thanks for bringing more Old Spot content! Looking forward to seeing the whole gang together again!
Yes, great video, thanks for posting! Definitely not too difficult to work on these cars compared to newer vehicles. No liquid cooling parts to replace, for instance!
Ain't that the truth...I went out day before yesterday and Rocky 13 had a puddle under him, green liquid, slimy, sweet tasting fluid...Mystery to air coolers!
So Spot got a rebuilt transaxle? Febis are my favorite too. And careful not to overtighten the worm gear clamps, those can cut through the boot if over tightened. And your orientation instructions with the seams facing forward at 10 and 2 are right on. I also try to push the boots in against the transaxle as much as possible while installing being that the axles will be hanging down lower later. That way you try to eliminate as much stress from the boot as possible.
Ol Spot's trans was/is good, it was the axle/axle tube that was bent. So, after some serious cleaning, sure looks new! And thank you for the tips on to not overtighen.
Great video. From one Gary to another 😎. I like to use the square end of a chisel or drift between the spring plate and the lower stop. Release the jack and the tool will hold the axle up a bit off the frame horns without balancing on the jack. Cheers Gary.
I like the idea of a "how to" for noobs. I'm actually gunna be doing a brake job on my 66 this weekend. gotta love the VW life! :) I see that you have a blaze cut on your beetle. I've been looking at doing the same but am unsure how they mount. Where did you mount it to on the deck lid? thanks love the videos keep em coming
Hope the brake job went well! Blaze Cut is a MUST! Peace of Mind, at least a little. Installing one on the decklid of a Beetle is a bit tricky, but once you get it in a circle it'll fit pretty nicely.
Hay team im new to buglife and need to do both my boots your video is awesome 👌 thanks, ive watched lots of your other videos and love them very helpful and entertaining 👍
I always feel like no matter how well I get these to fit they're going to leak lol. I attempted to fit the solid one piece boots once, couldn't fit them over the axel lol.
@@CapnTexan I tried them in a bucket of warm water, and prying them with long screw drivers. Might be worth investing in a tool specifically for that job.
The VW Dealer trick was to place an old spark plug butt end in first between the flat spring plate and the cast iron lip ~ jack one side of the car at a time or have a helper hold the plug in place was you jack the car . Remember : SAFETY STANDS ALWAYS ! _NEVER_ trust the jack to hold the car up . -Nate
I neglected to mention that the seam should always face _forward_ never to the rear as that placed it closer to the heater box's radiant heat, shortening life . This _isn't a tough job, just messy and a P.I.A. . Failure to do this and keep the transaxle topped up is what kills many a transaxle . Low co$t gear oil pumps are in every F.L.A.P.S. . -Nate
My engine is in the car and I have the axles jacked up to the correct height by for the life of me I Can't get the boot to come together at the transmission lip. That's with two different boots.
Good video. How much did the bug come off the jack stand when you jacked it up? Not as easy, but I’ve just waited until it’s on the ground for final tightening. That way you get it at the angle where it rests during normal operation
I do that with Jerry the Bus, but Ol Spot is so low, I cant fit under there so well anymore. Need a time machine to go back about 30 years, then I would slip right under !
Spot! Was wondering what happened to him - was it the bent axle? Im guessing so judging by this video and obviously a good excuse to remove the engine and do some work!
Great video guys. Question for you. I just put new boots on but are leaking like mad. I painted by axle tubes and flange. I see that the surfaces, in your vid, where the boot makes contact appear to be bare metal. Is this the case? If so, should I strip the paint to make better contact? Thanks in advance for any advice you may have!
Well sort of.. it is best to have bare metal there not specifically for sealing but more for not have paint come off and be in your gear box also.. if they are split boots make sure they are clocked a little like 10 and 2 .. You can tighten them down but sometimes too much will make them leak also .. Best of Luck!
Hey Jim, I replaced the right axle and right axle tube. AND, at some point in the past 56 years, Ol Spot had a little transaxle work, because it was not running the '67 long tube axles.
@@CapnTexan does the car still use the original Z bar? 67 axle tubes would have the mounts for it. My 66 bad tranny was swapped with a 67 long tube trans by the next owner.
I would go with a 69-71 regular beetle, not super beetle. 1969 and up you get ifs rear suspension and you won't be worried about these boots. Yes ifs has boots but they are better and incorporated into the cv.
SO.... what about us poor schmucks with IRS axles? 😉 I have no issues with mine at present, but hey- the future is always waiting to pounce on me!
Those do break but not as often as on the swingaxles. When they do you need to take the axles out and take them apart in order to swap those; which is a really messy job.
1964 VW owners manual states " leave weight on the wheels, apply sealant to the seam, install with seam at 90 degrees facing the rear with the screw heads on the bottom for ease of install. Check boots at every oil change.
Great job as always showing the details and nuances of a needed task. End goal is no leaks and do it right 1st time or do it over! VW Life!!
Yes indeed! And, so far, no leaks!!!!
So old Spot has a Z bar too? Glad you got unstuck Gary!
Yes, Ol Spot has a Z bar, nothing but the best for Ol Spot!
@@CapnTexan Might be fun at the autocross.
Thanks, guys, for doing a how-to video. These mean a lot to me as I will be working on a basket case 65 bus this spring.
I watched the video to the end. Hahaha. Happens to the best of them. I see Jake didn't help free you. He just kept filming.
No respect for his elders!!!
Great video Gary. You make things look easy to easy. Spot is coming along. Way to sell merch Jake. You guys must've drone this during the freez. Thanks for all the tips on maintenance.
Yes we did. The ice storm was just starting to hit. The next 3 days we cut limbs and trees down. Arrgh!
A better way to do the silicone sealant, if you use it at all, is to put it on the inner lip of the boot itself, and then let it dry for 24 hours. Then when you clamp it on the axle tube flange, and axle tube, it will stay in place on the boot, and compress against the surface of the axle tube flange and axle tube, and create a good seal. When you remove it, it will come off with the boot afterwards. A better seal, and easier clean up if you have to replace or remove the boots again. Nice job, and the angle is a great tip. I wish I had known about the angle for the seam before I replaced my transaxle and boots in my '64 but way back in '84.
Thanks Gary and Jake, some great information, loved the out takes and it turned out Bootiful.
Thank you for watching David!!!
Great video 👍
Thanks that was very helpful. Those boots make that doable for sure please keep doing the “ how to” videos So glad Jake has joined the profession
Thank you Kenneth! Jake grew up with VW''s and he has become a damn good VW mechanic. I am very proud of him!
That's definitely, definitely, definitely, 2 o'clock ;-)
Bloopers are awesome!!!
wow. just found your video. long time no see buddy! i have a 60 sunroof bug now.
Old Spot has got to be one of my favorite patina bugs! Thanks for bringing more Old Spot content! Looking forward to seeing the whole gang together again!
Thank you Ian! Looking back, I should have shot video of the Ol Spot build. It would have been epic!
Great tutorial, you Sir are a pro for sure. Loved the "60's sitcom music during the fast-forward part. Thanks for sharing.
What year is spot?? I forget
I'm digging it and as always
Thanks for the how to's 👍🇩🇪
‘67 VW blue
Yes, great video, thanks for posting! Definitely not too difficult to work on these cars compared to newer vehicles. No liquid cooling parts to replace, for instance!
Ain't that the truth...I went out day before yesterday and Rocky 13 had a puddle under him, green liquid, slimy, sweet tasting fluid...Mystery to air coolers!
Great job, it looks “Bootiful”
Love all the videos, maybe some on the Scirocco, or the Fahrenheit in the garage
Life is ALWAYS better with more Scirocco!
Hey Gary ! that was easy
So Spot got a rebuilt transaxle? Febis are my favorite too. And careful not to overtighten the worm gear clamps, those can cut through the boot if over tightened. And your orientation instructions with the seams facing forward at 10 and 2 are right on. I also try to push the boots in against the transaxle as much as possible while installing being that the axles will be hanging down lower later. That way you try to eliminate as much stress from the boot as possible.
Ol Spot's trans was/is good, it was the axle/axle tube that was bent. So, after some serious cleaning, sure looks new! And thank you for the tips on to not overtighen.
Great video. From one Gary to another 😎. I like to use the square end of a chisel or drift between the spring plate and the lower stop. Release the jack and the tool will hold the axle up a bit off the frame horns without balancing on the jack.
Cheers Gary.
i Would love one video like this but a engine rebuild :D Hi from sweden!
That is Ol Barry's specialty!
Rtv black works really good ❤ great video 💯
Another great video Little Dude! And it’s pronounced Fee Bee and you know where I grew up Brother
Thank you Big Dude!!! Same place I grew up, How-stun!
I like the idea of a "how to" for noobs. I'm actually gunna be doing a brake job on my 66 this weekend. gotta love the VW life! :) I see that you have a blaze cut on your beetle. I've been looking at doing the same but am unsure how they mount. Where did you mount it to on the deck lid? thanks love the videos keep em coming
Hope the brake job went well! Blaze Cut is a MUST! Peace of Mind, at least a little. Installing one on the decklid of a Beetle is a bit tricky, but once you get it in a circle it'll fit pretty nicely.
@@CapnTexan o yea easy peezy on the brakes been there done several times. Yea I definitely need to invest in blaze cut for my dubs for sure.
What light did you guys use under the car? It was nice and bright!
LED strip, and then our two headlamps!
Great video lads, very informative. Peace and VW for life!!
that's a great tip...thanks gary!! VW LIFE THURSDAYSSSS BABY
Thank you for watching Mauricio!
Hay team im new to buglife and need to do both my boots your video is awesome 👌 thanks, ive watched lots of your other videos and love them very helpful and entertaining 👍
I'm doing this soon on my dune buggy project. I have a leaking boot. I have the new boot. Just trying to find time to get it done.
You can do it John, Just take your time, have lots of towels to sop up the trans fluid, and you will be good to go!
Yoga with Gary!😂
As always, thank you for an easy fix.
nice job.
Thank you Jim!
I always feel like no matter how well I get these to fit they're going to leak lol. I attempted to fit the solid one piece boots once, couldn't fit them over the axel lol.
I wanna give the one piece boots a try one of these days. The key is to heat em up enough to stretch them!
@@CapnTexan I tried them in a bucket of warm water, and prying them with long screw drivers. Might be worth investing in a tool specifically for that job.
Nicely done. 👍
Great video, one of mine is leaking badly, Ive got the replacement boot…. Can i ask what type of grease is best to use on the seals?
im not gonna say who i am,but i was one of your students!
The VW Dealer trick was to place an old spark plug butt end in first between the flat spring plate and the cast iron lip ~ jack one side of the car at a time or have a helper hold the plug in place was you jack the car .
Remember : SAFETY STANDS ALWAYS ! _NEVER_ trust the jack to hold the car up .
-Nate
I neglected to mention that the seam should always face _forward_ never to the rear as that placed it closer to the heater box's radiant heat, shortening life .
This _isn't a tough job, just messy and a P.I.A. .
Failure to do this and keep the transaxle topped up is what kills many a transaxle .
Low co$t gear oil pumps are in every F.L.A.P.S. .
-Nate
We always just put a nut under the spring plate, usually gives enough room to get the boots on.
I put a nut under the spring plate and it squashed it .
Next time I'll use an inverted 13MM ATF bolt .
-Nate
@@donaldbrittsan984
Did you put grease inside the boot? Thanks for the video.
No need
Where's the video with the engine in ? .......or does it Have to be removed ? ..Would a VW shop take the engine out ? Great Video tho 😀
My engine is in the car and I have the axles jacked up to the correct height by for the life of me I Can't get the boot to come together at the transmission lip. That's with two different boots.
EXCELLENT!
MAYBE BETER IF YOU PUSH THE BOOTA LITTLE CLOSER TOGETHER TO HAVE MOOR SWING ON THE RUBBER
Good video. How much did the bug come off the jack stand when you jacked it up? Not as easy, but I’ve just waited until it’s on the ground for final tightening. That way you get it at the angle where it rests during normal operation
I do that with Jerry the Bus, but Ol Spot is so low, I cant fit under there so well anymore. Need a time machine to go back about 30 years, then I would slip right under !
@@CapnTexan I get that. Mine is a tight fit, and I’m at least close to stock ride height!
How did you gess i have this problem ?🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣💪
😅
Spot! Was wondering what happened to him - was it the bent axle? Im guessing so judging by this video and obviously a good excuse to remove the engine and do some work!
Great video guys. Question for you. I just put new boots on but are leaking like mad. I painted by axle tubes and flange. I see that the surfaces, in your vid, where the boot makes contact appear to be bare metal. Is this the case? If so, should I strip the paint to make better contact? Thanks in advance for any advice you may have!
Well sort of.. it is best to have bare metal there not specifically for sealing but more for not have paint come off and be in your gear box also.. if they are split boots make sure they are clocked a little like 10 and 2 .. You can tighten them down but sometimes too much will make them leak also .. Best of Luck!
Did you just replace the entire trans in Spot or the bent right axle?
Hey Jim, I replaced the right axle and right axle tube. AND, at some point in the past 56 years, Ol Spot had a little transaxle work, because it was not running the '67 long tube axles.
@@CapnTexan does the car still use the original Z bar? 67 axle tubes would have the mounts for it. My 66 bad tranny was swapped with a 67 long tube trans by the next owner.
I want a mk1 scirocco
YES!!! I love driving Rocky 13. There is a unique transition between a Beetle and a MK1 Scirocco and then drastic change to a MK2 16V Scirocco.
I do everything the hard way
What is part number for boot?
I really want a vw but I'm wondering what year and style would be best
Getting a bug will allow for most available parts at lowest cost. Earlier the better in years.
I would recommend a Scirocco!!! But then again, that's me!
I would go with a 69-71 regular beetle, not super beetle. 1969 and up you get ifs rear suspension and you won't be worried about these boots. Yes ifs has boots but they are better and incorporated into the cv.