You put the bigger o-ring and the paper gasget in the wrong order! You must put the paper gasget first against the brake back plate and then comes the o-ring. It's important to put the o-ring against the bearing cover! If the o-ring is against the brake back plate, as you did, and then comes the paper gasget which is against the bearing cover, the paper gasget will brake and you will face oil leaking! And btw the other paper gasget goes to the back of the brake back plate.
im not really surprized he got the order wrong, he doesnt exactly look like a surgeon..but any ideas on this: MY seal holder has no back 'wall' to tap the seal up against, how far do i tap it in?
I pressed the subscribe button once the Eff Wrench came out and I saw how easily it was able to get the hub assembly off the axle. This '68 Beetle here needs the same thing and I wasn't sure I had all the tools. I also have an Eff Wrench and it looks like it will be using it several times for this job. Thanks!
Excellent video, I got my new seals kit. It all started adjusting my handbrake and I noticed my shoes were all oiled up and crumbling away from oil contamination. The shoes were not that old, I replaced the whole lot and drums when I went to a 5 x 130 stud pattern. I did not know how the oil from the gearbox lubes the bearings. The ins and outs of owning an old beetle. Well done clear video, Great stuff.
There are 2 different styles of bearing covers. One has the groove for the oring the other does not. if yours has the groove for the oring you dont use the gaskets. if it does not you use the gaskets. one on each side of the backing plate.
Interesting video ; You never mentioned the lack of a park brake nor that you sheared off the cotter pin taking it apart . It's a simple thing to use a 4MM flat faced pin punch and hammer to knock the sheared off pin out . One shouldn't ever need to remove the backing plate all all . Nice to see you know what a bearing & seal driver is and how to use it, many don't . FWIW, the little hole is a weep hole and it was clearly shown to have been weeping the gear oil out onto the back side of the brake plate, sometimes it soaks the brake shoes, they can be cleaned with hot soapy water, after they're dry be _SURE_ to either lay thhem in the direct sun or heat them to see if any more oil comes out of the friction material . Relined or new shoes don't co$t much but I know many here are on a tight budget . Never, _EVER_ fail to install the darn cotter pin ! . The cotter pins are easiest t remove by un bending the ends then grasping the looped head with a large pair of dykes, them lever against the castle nut and it'll come right out every time . Anyone who thinks swearing is a big deal needs to get a life . -Nate
How can you not like this Man!!!? Straight to the point and a no bull💩 . I love it just what I needed. Blessings and more blessings to you and your family New Subscriber
Lube the O rings. Lube the seals. Torque to 217. (Book spec) then tighten till holes line up. Torque after wheel installed and on the ground. Chock the wheel. Much easier. Cheers!
Kit comes with 2 paper gaskets! 1for the brake assembly backing plate & 1 for the bearing cap! You can also put bearing grease on the bearing so it’s not dry during its first few miles. Other than that you did good?
Dude, that is an oil seal, not an anvil! Why are you "pounding" it in? A little lube and the seal will seat fine. Also using the drift with the proper side facing the seal would help. Lastly if you don't remove the backing plate from the axle, you don't have to fight the large O ring seal that much. I'm guessing the other side went easier.
@@AutoRepairTips No harm no foul. Just pointing out that standard operating procedure for replacing almost any seal that is meant to retain grease or oil is to slightly lube the mating area first. Think oiling the oil filter gasket before install. No offense but do you think it should take as much effort with a small sledgehammer to seat a little seal as it does to remove a ball joint? Having the correct orientation for the drift would have had the seal home sooner, and more evenly and now that folks know, it comes in handy when using it elsewhere.
Hasn’t COME off any of the bolts yet, not CAME!!As mentioned below by Harold, the seal should have been lubricated before assembly and that’s probably why it was pinched by the previous guy, and possibly now, by you. Didn’t look like you repacked the main bearing..,looked a bit dry. Wow!
a paper gasket can't go on the other side of the backing plate. The step in the axle housing (type 1) where the backing plate goes is larger diameter than the inside of the gaskets. The second gasket is for a type 2 to go against the gear reduction box before installing the backing plate then the other gasket and cap. You only need one, but if 2 works well for you, it's all good.
The putting it back on is the hardest part. the brake line makes the backing plate want to come away from the hub. you need a second pair of hands to hold it in place while you get the cover on. I didn't have anyone handy and ended up fucking up the o ring.
I still don’t see which exact part is keeping the oil from leaking in the spline grooves. I did all of this and it still leaks between the axle splines.....down my wheel rim 😢
at 2:51 you can see it clear as day. The oring is behind the splines. If you still have oil leaking its most likely torn the ring I put on at 3:40 they sometimes get pinched on final assembly
@@AutoRepairTips Followed all the same instructions and still leaked. Took it apart and no o-ring pinched. SHould I put permatex on either side of the rubber seal and in the middle?
You put the bigger o-ring and the paper gasget in the wrong order! You must put the paper gasget first against the brake back plate and then comes the o-ring. It's important to put the o-ring against the bearing cover! If the o-ring is against the brake back plate, as you did, and then comes the paper gasget which is against the bearing cover, the paper gasget will brake and you will face oil leaking! And btw the other paper gasget goes to the back of the brake back plate.
im not really surprized he got the order wrong, he doesnt exactly look like a surgeon..but any ideas on this: MY seal holder has no back 'wall' to tap the seal up against, how far do i tap it in?
Anyone can make a video!
“See if we can not f@ck this up” Is how I live my daily life. Thank You for this video! Straight to the point and no BS. 👍🏻👍🏻
I pressed the subscribe button once the Eff Wrench came out and I saw how easily it was able to get the hub assembly off the axle. This '68 Beetle here needs the same thing and I wasn't sure I had all the tools. I also have an Eff Wrench and it looks like it will be using it several times for this job. Thanks!
Excellent video, I got my new seals kit. It all started adjusting my handbrake and I noticed my shoes were all oiled up and crumbling away from oil contamination. The shoes were not that old, I replaced the whole lot and drums when I went to a 5 x 130 stud pattern. I did not know how the oil from the gearbox lubes the bearings. The ins and outs of owning an old beetle. Well done clear video, Great stuff.
There are 2 different styles of bearing covers. One has the groove for the oring the other does not. if yours has the groove for the oring you dont use the gaskets. if it does not you use the gaskets. one on each side of the backing plate.
Interesting video ;
You never mentioned the lack of a park brake nor that you sheared off the cotter pin taking it apart .
It's a simple thing to use a 4MM flat faced pin punch and hammer to knock the sheared off pin out .
One shouldn't ever need to remove the backing plate all all .
Nice to see you know what a bearing & seal driver is and how to use it, many don't .
FWIW, the little hole is a weep hole and it was clearly shown to have been weeping the gear oil out onto the back side of the brake plate, sometimes it soaks the brake shoes, they can be cleaned with hot soapy water, after they're dry be _SURE_ to either lay thhem in the direct sun or heat them to see if any more oil comes out of the friction material .
Relined or new shoes don't co$t much but I know many here are on a tight budget .
Never, _EVER_ fail to install the darn cotter pin ! .
The cotter pins are easiest t remove by un bending the ends then grasping the looped head with a large pair of dykes, them lever against the castle nut and it'll come right out every time .
Anyone who thinks swearing is a big deal needs to get a life .
-Nate
Great walk through on this problem.
How can you not like this Man!!!?
Straight to the point and a no bull💩 . I love it just what I needed.
Blessings and more blessings to you and your family
New Subscriber
That vent hole you refer to is a oil return. The sling washer keeps the oil in the cup and it returns through that hole. Man, you should know that.
Um, not it is not. It's pretty clear that the outlet is out side of the assembly!
@@starlightsims9229it is not. It is inside the cup behind the sling washer. If it was a vent it would be on the top, not the bottom.
very clearly shown what I want to know. you are highly appreciated
Lube the O rings. Lube the seals. Torque to 217. (Book spec) then tighten till holes line up. Torque after wheel installed and on the ground. Chock the wheel. Much easier. Cheers!
What kind of lube?
Kit comes with 2 paper gaskets! 1for the brake assembly backing plate & 1 for the bearing cap! You can also put bearing grease on the bearing so it’s not dry during its first few miles. Other than that you did good?
If there's gear oil on the brake pads, do you think you can get them clean enough with brake clean?
Great video. Thank you very much!
I legit laughed out loud.
Super. Many thanks for the various tips in this video. Juat what I needed .
Worth watching for the Specs 45 on cap and 253 on axle nut...thanks!
put a nut on those threads for the crowbar next time... 🙂 great content. . thanks!
Clean as possible on that nasty table! Lol..
ha, I thought the same thing.
great video though.
Too good. Thank u .
The hole on the gasket is so the oil can travel through there.
Should be good to go if the holes match up
How about the washer before the crown nut ? Mine has one and looked like yours was still on the floor....
Dar.
Very Very good vídeo
Thanks, Brasil.
what no assembly grease ?
Working on a customer's car and doesn't use grease to put things together..
Dude, that is an oil seal, not an anvil! Why are you "pounding" it in? A little lube and the seal will seat fine. Also using the drift with the proper side facing the seal would help. Lastly if you don't remove the backing plate from the axle, you don't have to fight the large O ring seal that much. I'm guessing the other side went easier.
If you know how to do it so well why are you watching a video on how to do it? Sounds like you should make a video to show the better way.
@@AutoRepairTips No harm no foul. Just pointing out that standard operating procedure for replacing almost any seal that is meant to retain grease or oil is to slightly lube the mating area first. Think oiling the oil filter gasket before install. No offense but do you think it should take as much effort with a small sledgehammer to seat a little seal as it does to remove a ball joint? Having the correct orientation for the drift would have had the seal home sooner, and more evenly and now that folks know, it comes in handy when using it elsewhere.
@@AutoRepairTips Yikes.
@@starlightsims9229 You are 100% incorrect on lubing seals before install on the outside. any seal under pressure is more likely to blow out.
@@AutoRepairTips
Um the seal can't blow out on the outside as it is hard up against the metal seat and plate. Kinda why it needs to be forced in!
Hasn’t COME off any of the bolts yet, not CAME!!As mentioned below by Harold, the seal should have been lubricated before assembly and that’s probably why it was pinched by the previous guy, and possibly now, by you. Didn’t look like you repacked the main bearing..,looked a bit dry. Wow!
Worked perfectly since I did the repair, owner is a great customer.
Its oil lubricated, no reason to pack with grease. Thats why it leaks.
Anyone got a idea on how to remove the spacer if it's stuck on haven't had any luck
What kind of grease would you use if you were to use grease?
White lithium 😊
Does the backing plate actually press the large o-ring or does it sort of fit around the o-ring.
a gasket goes on each side of the drum assembly
Well, it doesn't leak this way so works good enough for me.
I forgot to say it is a good video, thanks! whatever works!
Auto Repair Tips NOW that's another reason why I like your ass. New subscriber
richard carr I wonder if the other paper gasket was on ,it would help hold the o ring in place??
a paper gasket can't go on the other side of the backing plate. The step in the axle housing (type 1) where the backing plate goes is larger diameter than the inside of the gaskets. The second gasket is for a type 2 to go against the gear reduction box before installing the backing plate then the other gasket and cap. You only need one, but if 2 works well for you, it's all good.
The putting it back on is the hardest part. the brake line makes the backing plate want to come away from the hub. you need a second pair of hands to hold it in place while you get the cover on. I didn't have anyone handy and ended up fucking up the o ring.
For sure the brake line and o-ring are the two worst parts.
There was no reason to remove the backing plate anyway...
@@Mr572u I know that. it comes loose while replacing the bearing though. not much you can do about it.
"all f-d up" This guy tells it like it is.
that was a spacer you called a bearing ,,,so this is not cv axles ,,,,thanks for sharing though
I still don’t see which exact part is keeping the oil from leaking in the spline grooves. I did all of this and it still leaks between the axle splines.....down my wheel rim 😢
at 2:51 you can see it clear as day. The oring is behind the splines. If you still have oil leaking its most likely torn the ring I put on at 3:40 they sometimes get pinched on final assembly
@@AutoRepairTips Followed all the same instructions and still leaked. Took it apart and no o-ring pinched. SHould I put permatex on either side of the rubber seal and in the middle?
How long is the torque wrench you used???
You fucked it up, one of those paper seals is for the inside.
Yikes. So much is wrong in this video for this to be a car of a customer.
Personally I always run into that safety cutter pin not lining up with the hole every time I lock it down to that 250lbs ish... 😑
tighten the nut more till hole lines up
Now take it back apart and replace the greasy brake shoes.
217 is the book spec. As long as the holes line up you are good. Nothing less than that.
Sure we wont know if u messed that one up...I would use grease....lots of moving parts in there
It's in an oil bath, no need for grease.
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Maybe the guy could invest in some brake parts cleaner?? Is he still in business???
Am I still in business? Yes. Not sure where your going with the brake parts cleaner. You can even see a can sitting on the floor in the shot.
If the poor guy can't afford grease he can't afford brake cleaner!!!
@@arthurstrickland4955 😂😂
That was painful 😂
I don't have the outer most shim
the kit I installed has that in it. They are super cheap like less than 5 dollars
The spacer isn’t a bearing like you called it and the hole you don’t know what it is has a purpose
the hole lets the oil drain back into the axle housing
@@arthurstrickland4955 Um no, it still doesn't!
“I don’t know how really important that is….” says it all. A total hack.
I appreciated your video until you started using vulgar language. Vulgar language doesn't make your video more informative or you any more of a man.