VW bug bus axle seals how I do them
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 4 сен 2024
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Odelphi Light On amazon Cheaper price??? I dont know if they are the same as the one I got but???
amzn.to/36HeUqW If you have a VW flat 4 air cooled powered car, you probably have had an axle seal leak. Many people do these wrong. watch how I do it so you stop the endless leaking axle seals on your car.
TO RUN THE SLINGER: On mine I put the seal all the way to the stop and it was not in the right position (rubbing the seal). For the sake of ruining the new seal I decided not to run the slinger.....IF YOU WANT TO RUN IT. you need the seal to be correctly spaced, not all the way in to the stop. When the wheel is tight it will push the slinger away from the housing and closer to the seal. So there is actually a special tool to get the correct spacing. Or you can do trial and error (lots of errors). The seal should -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------setpower fridge amzn.to/3sOIJ1e
TO RUN THE SLINGER: On mine I put the seal all the way to the stop and it was not in the right position (rubbing the seal). For the sake of ruining the new seal I decided not to run the slinger.....IF YOU WANT TO RUN IT. you need the seal to be correctly spaced, not all the way in to the stop. When the wheel is tight it will push the slinger away from the housing and closer to the seal. So there is actually a special tool to get the correct spacing. Or you can do trial and error (lots of errors). The seal should be about 1/16 below the seat of the BEARING race. If it is too close to the bearing, the bearing will rub on the inner side of the seal and cause damage. If it is too close to the stop the slinger will rub on the seal and cause damage to the seal. Think about when you tighten the wheel up where it will be.
You are using the installer backwards; the lip is designed to stop you from driving the seal too far.
Just remembered when I did this to my bug I tossed the OG slinger and used the one in the kit . Later found out the diameter and maybe thickness were wrong and it kept leaking ! Wish I didn't throw the old slinger . Lesson learned .
yea the slingers on the original ones were larger. and they only put 1 washer in the kit which belongs at the bearing. To use the slinger you need to use a large size and put the seal in only a small amount of the race. like use a bearing size seal installing tool to put he seal in. needs to have like 1/4 inch gap in there for the slinger to ride in. Almost always pulling the slinger is the best bet. Because they rub on the seal or bearing holder and cause it to leak.
Great video! 😊 Three things to add from my experience:
1. New axle seal kits have poor quality washers - use your original if possible.
2. Check the spacer carefully for wear from the seal. These VW's are old and there is often a groove worn in the spacer. If it's minor polish it out. If any question, get a new one!
3. Axle nut torque is very important. If not tightened to spec, it'll leak and possibly spin out the splines in the drum (especially the aftermarket ones available today).
Thank You for sharing your knowledge! 👍
@@TheDasbull Hi Jeff quite correct👍🏻. Mike knows his business. like you.
Hi there. I may have mentioned in an earlier message ,that the inside cog of the Brake Drum, on my 1975 super 'disappeared' leaving me with the impression that my clutch had gone.... No go ! Kind regards Alex BTW another great video .Thank you for sharing
Dont forget to really check the inner spacer for wear! The surefire reason they are leaking is that no one ever really checks that part. Rancho Trans here in Fullerton has them in stock. Solved my constant leaky seals once I learned about it(you still need to replace the inner O-ring, so don't forget that) and torque the drum down to seat the seal holder and then retorque them with the bus fully on the ground to 250 pounds feet.
yea for sure they wear a groove. Mine was not like that good point.
@@Mikefngarage I fought leaks on both sides of my small nut '62 and then came across a Samba thread that mentioned it. Somewhere I also read that you should install the seal and torque the drum to seat the seal. Then put the bus on the ground (with wheels and normal weight) then loosen the axel nut and re-torque. Not sure why, but I did it and my leaks are gone. Most likely it was the spacer though.
@@ocavant shouldnt be necessary if the correct oring is on there. The problem is the oring if too large will not tighten the seal race flush to the washer. so it will loosen over time. So if the oring is too large because they did not run the washer (without the washer it will run into that goove in the bearing then you would want a larger oring. But it will spill over on to the mating surface of the Seal race. Then cause the drum to come loose. Samba thread says not to run the washer because they are not as thick as the original ones. I disagree......The washer when the area is tight will still be a firm mating surface with the drum if the oring is not spilling over. Smaller is better. I used the phone a friend on this one too. He agrees. He was the most matriculas vw guy i ever knew and had a successful shop for about 20 years until divorce and demand slowed causing him to close.
Hey Mike 2 weeks ago I was thinking it was in 2008 I put new bearing on Rambus and it is about time to at least re-grease them . One + side is I used Valvoline red grease on them . I tried !!!!!!
I tried? What do you mean?
@@jeffswanson9143 Jeff I used Valvoline red wheel bearing grease and it's probably the best I could get a hold of the Auto Shack staylube brand don't stay put . That junk slings away from the rollers and then you know what you get . I wished I had put some zirts on it I saw where they would work at .
to have the slinger run free, you need a special tool to push the seal at an exact distance from the bearing counterbore,
using a generic tool makes this distance a gess so sometimes, it is a success, sometimes , it is a fail
very good video
funny I just replaced my axle seals on my bug . did not know about the slinger thing have driven the car a few hundred miles, no problem so far maybe I'll get lucky, wish I watched this first . I'm going to run it as is. If I have any leaks, I'll know what to do . Thanks for the info.
if you didnt run the slinger should be ok. some of the washers are super thin on the inside.
When the drum is tightened down, the nut pushes in on the drum, then the drum pushes against what item? Seems like the slinger is the next thing in line.
This is Teaching from the Best. Thanks Mike!
Excellent... how easy it´s to make or build those axle seals... Thanks Mike👍👍👍👍
Hi, Mike as usual🌞.a great and informative video👍🏻. for those who drive this VW T1 -T2 busses or transporters,- It`s different from the VW T3.but one have aøøways to be alert with chains these parts.Greetings.HCS
Hi Mike, washer number 7 might have been missing on purpose. There are a few discussions in the samba regarding the replacement washers being either too thin or of a poor quality metal. These deflect when tightening the axle nuts and tend to damage the oring causing leaks. Many people remove them. I’ve been looking for original German washers to see if the won’t deflect and cut the oring with the sharp inner edge.
that washer was thick enough and it really should be there. to protect the surface from the bearing and space it correctly.
G'day,
I'm also finding the washers in the kits can be hit and miss some I've seen here in Australia are like foil Chinese crapola.
So never throw away your old washers good ones are getting increasingly hard to get.
✌️ Peace.
Many thanks Mike for this video!!
Blue Hylomar! ( A British invention for keeping the oil in jet engines)
My bus hasn't leaked from the axle seals in the thirty years since I last did them.
Where did you put the Hylomar Andrew? Keith
@@kite7214 On the gaskets in the jointing surfaces. I had to fairly regularly top up the axle gearboxes until I replaced the seals and made new gaskets from a cornflakes box.
I have 1961 bus and leaking gear oil from axle. When I disassembled I didn't see the washer right after the bearing (1:01 on your video) and the slinger at the end. Can that be the reason oil is leaking? I replaced seals twice without them and still leaking. I didn't put them because whoever worked on before I got this bus didn't put them. AND I DIDN'T SEE THIS VIDEO back then. Thank you for your help.
What is the book you were looking at? I need a book of diagrams like that to figure out how my bug works
That slinger washer is too small!!!! ive just done my 1967 beetle and there is no way you can fit the slinger after the seal is in.
Hi Mike, Can you please let me use some part of this video in my Axle Oil Leak Repair video? Thank you very much.
Does the wheel bearing need to be greased up like the front?
I did this 3 times. First time I don't think I put seal in far enough, second time pressed in seal all the way. Still leaks. Did again this morning....still leaks. Kept the slinger in all times. When I took apart last time the spring on the seal was broke, out of place and big o ring was busted. Still trying to figure this out. Very frustrated.
try removing the slinger. with a new seal kit.
make sure the seal race is not scored. pretty smooth.
@@Mikefngarage I did it last time without the slinger. Leaking again but lasted longer than last time. Is there another possible issue it could be if my work is correct?
remove the slinger.
@@christinahosler4082 also could be loose bearing. make sure the bearing is not really bad or loose.
👍
Those can be a bitch; no matter how hard you try.