Hey man! Great video. I'm a 20 year old kid who just bought a 1962 Bug with a leaky transmission. Rear main seal is the suspect, so now I think I'm confident enough to tackle it.
Andrew Gross welcome to the VW obsession, I mean hobby, I mean.... lol I’m glad you feel confident after watching this, please reach out if you have any questions! There are also a number of other RUclips people who have been doing this longer than I have and are much smarter also..... any of us would be happy to help you along, that’s what the community is about.
Andrew welcome to the vw hobby Gary correct there is a lot of us on you tube you can reach out to for help. Another good resource is a local vw club that may be in your area. My son and I learn a lot when we started by going to vw shows and asking tons of questions and all the psoitive replies gave us the confidents we were lacking, we had the tools and skill set just was not sure how to proceed, this was before you tube.
Same boat. The spring trick looks okay, but I have an OG engine and I found out they put a thin amount of gasket sealant around the outside of rear main seal. They way it was done is very neat which told me factory or professional. Either way works but I trust the silicone
I just found Triangle Auto Parts a few weeks ago. Didn't even know they existed. Yes, awesome service and prices. Nice video and thanks for sharing your spring tip. Will try that out next time I pull the engine. Stay safe.
@@VWJawbreaker your work so neat and clean man. Just found your channel. I'm in South Africa. I drive a 67 bug with a 1700cc motor. Got many videos to watch now...lol
@@bernardstander7642 I appreciate the kind words sir! I’m just sharing what I know and my experiences along the way. I’m by no means an expert and there’s always more than one way to skin a cat as they say.
Cheap aftermarket parts. I'm becoming a pro installing and removing engines. Its getting old. I'm seriously considering making the rear apron removable. Great video. Glad to see all is well.
Volkswagenplanet it does get old unfortunately but that’s just how it is. Removable rear apron isn’t a bad idea, I should look into it as well. Glad you’re well buddy, stay safe.
Misunderstoodboygenius it’s not difficult at all, just intimidating for those who haven’t tackled it yet. Best of luck this weekend, stay safe and healthy buddy.
Man Brother I feel for you engine has been in and out a bunch on Jawbreaker! I just the engine in Penelope and hope it stays in for quite some time!!! Great tips and vid as always!
Mileage Unknown it’s hit much to pull an engine, I’d rather pull it and check things out than leave it alone and hope for the best lol I gotta check out your new vid, hope you’re doing ok man.
Great video brother. Yes I would definitely use Teflon tape, Loctite is not a good sealer. I never used red Loctite on gland nut, I may just do that. Now that’s the first time I seen that spring trick on the rear main seal I definitely want to try that. It makes good sense. Stay safe brother
VWJawbreaker Thank you my friend, we’re staying as safe as can be, we will all get through this. I didn’t know about the yellow? Is that a better Teflon tape?
VWJawbreaker Thank you for the tip brother! I actually believe I have both on hand, not quite sure why I have the yellow for. I must’ve done something at one point. LOL
Loved the video Gary! Great tips I will definitely use next time! Always great to hear your positivity in this shit bag of a world it is right now. ✌🙏😷👊stay up brother! Again loved the update🎥
E-man Deluxe thanks man, I really appreciate your input! All we can do is be safe and positive in this weird thing we’re all going through together. Keep safe and healthy!
SaaaWeeeet! I had the same problem on my aluminum case build. hehehe Where did you learn how to clip the oil seal spring? I usually don't get that aggressive. I seem to always have leakers if I use a big oil pump. Single lip, double lip, Black, Red doesn't matter. daaahhhhhh maybe I should give up driving off road. hehehe Love ya bro!
I thought it was a 26mm pump but I found out it was a 30mm pump. Pressures were pretty high even with thinner oils. Ended up swapping pumps later on. I forget where I learned that trick from but it does work worse case. I normally try to do that as a last resort. Seems the regular single lip red one still works best imo but we all have different opinions and results.
Good question. Assuming your end play was within spec before and you don’t lose any of the shims, no you don’t need to check or change anything for the end play. IF you were replacing the flywheel, then yes you would as end play can vary slightly between flywheels.
I was surprised when it was your oil galley plug! Didn't see that coming, lol. My buggy has oil seeping all around the bell housing and dripping on the ground so I'm almost certain it's the main seal. The last time I had a similar oil leak it turned out to be a cracked case behind #3.
Yeah I didn’t see what coming either but oh well lol 2 biggest causes for oil leaks in that area are the main seal and cam plug leaking. Oil galley plugs usually don’t leak and then there’s the worst leak, the crack by #3.... sorry yours was the crack 😞
Would this seal leak cause it to slip out of 2nd gear on an auto clutch? Ive replace shift arm bushing and linkage as well as numerous attempts at adjusting the clutch arm ect in the rear.
Gary, great video. Gotta ask yuh, what do you think is going on with my regulator and gauge? Running 1776 w/dual 34's. Install Holly pump, regulator and a low pressure gauge. the gauge will not register unless I place the gauge on one side of the regulator then T off the other side to the carbs. I noticed that you have the gauge inline to the carb. What am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance for your response.
On the regulator, there’s an in and 2 outs on the Holley’s. The gauge will need to be tee’d on one of the outputs before going to the carb. I’ve never had much luck with installing just the gauge on one of the outs and not having it feed anything.
@@VWJawbreaker I first tee'd gauge on one of the out and it didn't read at all. I only got reading when placing it on one of the out's by itself. Btw, where can I order the elect' temp gauge you installed. Thanks again.
So I'm in the planning/emotional preparation stage of doing this to the 66 Type II engine on my sand rail. I feel pretty overwhelmed with the task at the moment. How long would you say it take to get the engine out? An hour? 2 hours?
All depends on your skills and how comfortable you are doing mechanical work…. Could take 15-20 minutes to have the engine out, could take 45-60 minutes. Don’t worry about speed, the more you do something the better you become at it. Take your time and look at it as a learning experience and enjoy the process.
That is fine, the important thing is that you shared the knowledge with VW community. I do the same things, o share the knowledge I have. However, when I have learned something from one of the VW community RUclips pals; I mentioned them in the videos or share their links. Hope that fixed the oil leak. Awesome.
@@juniorclassicvwbugs924 yes sir, I do the same thing. For me it’s all about the community and helping each other keep these classics on the road. I don’t care about popularity, money from the vids, etc. I’m just trying to pass on what little I know and give back to the community, both VW and local.
Been busy on nothing but Volkswagens now that we are on lockdown we all have the time so we built the 1776 and a 1641 with a cam and then the 1915 we just reinstalled to our sandrail it ran crankshaft so we went with a forged counter weighted crank 69mm going to get it fired up for the first time now after lunch
Lara Hadington wow, you’ve been busy! Wish I had more time and cash to build up some engines and I would love to have a rail. I use to hang around a guy when I was a kid that custom built some sweet rails, his frame design and all.... he would mud race them on Saturdays and then take them to shows and win on Sunday’s.
James Dearman I’m running the red electric fuel pump CB Performance sells.... found it on amazon for cheaper though. Derale brand. Gauge is just a mechanical fuel pressure gauge that is plumbed into the low pressure Holley regulator.
Thank for the video and thanks for the channel list. I will be checking those out. Just got my 2017 on the test stand and fired. I did the brake in, and not without some drama but all seems good now. Somthing that caught my eye is your lower tin with the merged header. Are those just stock lower tins that are cut down to clear the header? I was thinking I will need to do somthing about lower front tins before I install it in the car. Cheers and thank you for the video.
Rob Sannes glad to hear you got the 2017 up and going! There’s usually always some kind of drama and it’s not like we aren’t worked up tight as crap to begin with lol You are correct, I cut down the sled tins to make them fit the best that I could with the merged exhaust. I have never ran them down here but figured why not since I had a bent up set I could sacrifice.
There is a drain back hole already back there. Check out hover mods if you want to modify the case at all… that’s something that you do when the case is apart before you build it.
When I engage the clutch in any gear in my VW it acts like it’s in neutral, sounded like a CV Joint came off when I was cruising down the road, I’m assuming it has the be fly wheel or clutch , so I’m ordering a kit that comes with the main seal and bearing hopefully it’s not the transmission gears
Hey man Kevin here from Australia. Thanks for sharing this one I especially love your new safety boots any chance of supplying a link as to were I can get a pair . Anyhoo stay safe and stay well. ✌ Peace man
Darin Owen you’re more than welcome! Hope it helps you along with your project.... that’s the main reason I do these videos, to help keep these old cars on the road. Have a great week.
That is what wrenching on a V Dub is all about, just take your time, think, and execute your plan. Well done! I'm getting back into these and remembering and relearning all kinds of stuff. Lost my clutch yesterday, so got up early and began the engine removal. Luckily local shop had what I needed and should go smooth. Thinking of changing out jugs and pistons to 1641 while I got it out to give me a little more pep, never done it but I'm sure it is not that hard any tips welcome.
Thanks for the comment and welcome back to the obsessive hobby! 😂 Good for you for just jumping in and making it happen. Just as you said to me, take your time, do a little research and it shouldn’t be a problem for you if you’re half way mechanically inclined. There’s plenty of videos out there as well that should help you along including the last 2 I just did on calculating and correcting compression ratio. The process would be the same for you to change out your cylinders.
@@VWJawbreaker ah okay looks good. Make sure you constantly wipe the lens with your shirt. So easy to get smudges. Just something we deal with all the time.
@@VWJawbreaker yes so far so good..same to you. I hope next weekend i can get my clutch & idf ordered to start putting everything back and get the motor back in the car 🙏
VW RICH FLAT4 they do, most cases have an aluminum plug there and not a threaded plug. Aftermarket cases are threaded for all oil galleries. You can pull the aluminum plugs out, tap them and thread in plugs but not with the engine together.... too much of a chance of getting metal pieces in your engine.
Easiest way is to get someone else to do it. Hahaha! Until I found the nick on the edge of the flywheel, I got pretty good replacing rear main seal. A little polishing solved it. Have fun. Moe
the book calls for IN RECEST for the oil seal ,,,,,this caused me so so much problems when i got into this hobby ! some guys that claimed to be vw mechanics said it goes flush with the case ! but i would have a cut seal within a few miles ,,,,," then i read the book " and little phrase that says make sure the seal goes into the recest ,,,,since that no more issues with that ,,,,,,just saying
I hear ya there, I’ve been told so many different ways over the years. I personally think the seals are a different size than they use to be due to setting them recessed makes them too close to the inner part of the case. Again, I’m just sharing my personal experience. Thank you for taking time to comment.
@@VWJawbreaker just look at your case on a 1600 that is there is a recess you cant miss it ,,,,i had pictures of seals completely cut and no one would say they new why ! if you have time there is a rebuild by race tv i believe ? if i knew how to put a link in utube i would do it but ,,,check him out when he gets to the seal part ,," he clearly says push the seal in the recess " like i said i never had a cut or leaking seal since that ,,,,,and these people , some of them called themselves pros ! thank you have a great christmas ,,,,,
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
And if it’s an engine with some time or miles that oring in the flywheel can cause a little oil leak or wheeze.
Randy Peterson excellent point, excessive end play can definitely cause that. Thanks for being here, stay safe and healthy!
+Randy Peterson yes, I did forget to mention the oring, thank you for reminding me!
ROFL at "Slippy Slippy Bad". Thanks for the good video Gary.
Anytime buddy!
It was worth every moment thanks buddy. Ash from South Africa.
Glad you enjoyed the video 🤙
I just watched this video, and you did such a good job. I'm just replacing the rear main on my 58 super informative thanks.
Thank you and I’m glad you found the video helpful!
Hey man! Great video. I'm a 20 year old kid who just bought a 1962 Bug with a leaky transmission. Rear main seal is the suspect, so now I think I'm confident enough to tackle it.
Andrew Gross welcome to the VW obsession, I mean hobby, I mean.... lol
I’m glad you feel confident after watching this, please reach out if you have any questions! There are also a number of other RUclips people who have been doing this longer than I have and are much smarter also..... any of us would be happy to help you along, that’s what the community is about.
Andrew welcome to the vw hobby Gary correct there is a lot of us on you tube you can reach out to for help. Another good resource is a local vw club that may be in your area. My son and I learn a lot when we started by going to vw shows and asking tons of questions and all the psoitive replies gave us the confidents we were lacking, we had the tools and skill set just was not sure how to proceed, this was before you tube.
Same boat. The spring trick looks okay, but I have an OG engine and I found out they put a thin amount of gasket sealant around the outside of rear main seal. They way it was done is very neat which told me factory or professional. Either way works but I trust the silicone
I just found Triangle Auto Parts a few weeks ago. Didn't even know they existed. Yes, awesome service and prices. Nice video and thanks for sharing your spring tip. Will try that out next time I pull the engine. Stay safe.
2 Guys and a Bug triangle is pretty good. Stay safe and healthy, happy Easter!
Great video! Thank you for taking the time to create them.
Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment.
Neat trick with the spring. Glad you're doing well man, stay safe!
Haptic Garage yes sir! Hope you’re doing well and staying safe.
This is a gem of a video!
Glad you found it helpful!
I didn't even know that spring came out of the main seal!!
Thanks for the tip brother!!
Keep up the great work!!
VeeDub P8 I learned it from someone else, thought I’d pass it along.
Hope you’re doing well brother.
Thanks for this one. Great little trick with the spring!!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@VWJawbreaker your work so neat and clean man. Just found your channel. I'm in South Africa. I drive a 67 bug with a 1700cc motor.
Got many videos to watch now...lol
@@bernardstander7642 I appreciate the kind words sir! I’m just sharing what I know and my experiences along the way. I’m by no means an expert and there’s always more than one way to skin a cat as they say.
Very informative. One of the best videos regarding this topic. Thanks a lot. Stay safe. 👍
Thank you for taking the time to leave such a nice comment. I’m glad you found the video helpful! Stay safe and have a great week.
Cheap aftermarket parts. I'm becoming a pro installing and removing engines. Its getting old. I'm seriously considering making the rear apron removable. Great video. Glad to see all is well.
Volkswagenplanet it does get old unfortunately but that’s just how it is. Removable rear apron isn’t a bad idea, I should look into it as well.
Glad you’re well buddy, stay safe.
@@VWJawbreaker have a good day
Volkswagenplanet you as well!
Glad you did this. Not hard at all. It’s funny that you and Duckman both did this in the last week, and I’ll be doing it this weekend :)
Misunderstoodboygenius it’s not difficult at all, just intimidating for those who haven’t tackled it yet. Best of luck this weekend, stay safe and healthy buddy.
Thanks Gary, this video was my beginning watching your you Tubes. It was indeed a very cool tip. It worked/it works!! Thanks ; liked subscribed...
Thank you sir, glad you liked and hope you stick around! Have a great rest of the week.
@@VWJawbreaker sticking around mate. All the way in Ke Africa🙏🏾
Nic job brother! Yes, Triangle is a great local shop!
CT that they are! Hope you’re doing well!
Very helpful especially fixing the oil drain plug that I never knew existed there!😜
The oil galley plugs are on aftermarket cases. Stock cases have plugs there that can be removed and tapped for plugs. 👍
Why would you need this galley?
Man Brother I feel for you engine has been in and out a bunch on Jawbreaker! I just the engine in Penelope and hope it stays in for quite some time!!! Great tips and vid as always!
Mileage Unknown it’s hit much to pull an engine, I’d rather pull it and check things out than leave it alone and hope for the best lol
I gotta check out your new vid, hope you’re doing ok man.
Gary good tip on cutting the spring never seen that before, I can see how it would help.
Busman 54 I heard about it from someone and just thought I’d pass the info along.
Great video brother. Yes I would definitely use Teflon tape, Loctite is not a good sealer. I never used red Loctite on gland nut, I may just do that. Now that’s the first time I seen that spring trick on the rear main seal I definitely want to try that. It makes good sense. Stay safe brother
Slades VW Beetle make sure it’s yellow Teflon tape 😁
Stay safe and healthy brother.
VWJawbreaker Thank you my friend, we’re staying as safe as can be, we will all get through this. I didn’t know about the yellow? Is that a better Teflon tape?
Slades VW Beetle white tape is for regular plumbing, yellow is for gas and oil.
VWJawbreaker Thank you for the tip brother! I actually believe I have both on hand, not quite sure why I have the yellow for. I must’ve done something at one point. LOL
Thanks for the video, I was nervous about using the impact gun. Cuz all the other videos show manual removal
Just like any other tool, use with caution.
@@VWJawbreaker it worked.. just the first attempt with it wasnt budging.. turns out the last guy used tons of thread lock
@@kriscarman6428 some is a good idea imo but not a tun of it.
Loved the video Gary! Great tips I will definitely use next time! Always great to hear your positivity in this shit bag of a world it is right now. ✌🙏😷👊stay up brother! Again loved the update🎥
E-man Deluxe thanks man, I really appreciate your input! All we can do is be safe and positive in this weird thing we’re all going through together.
Keep safe and healthy!
Thank you for the tutorial video. Excellent.
Hope it helps my friend!
I used to bolt on my flywheel lock tool. Now I just slide it on one of the lower engine mount studs. Easy on. Easy off.
That works!
Great Video with Good Tips for the oil leak repair. Nice Sharing Video. BigW:-)
Big W Adventures thank you buddy for always being here. Hope you both are staying safe and healthy! Happy Easter!
SaaaWeeeet! I had the same problem on my aluminum case build. hehehe Where did you learn how to clip the oil seal spring? I usually don't get that aggressive. I seem to always have leakers if I use a big oil pump. Single lip, double lip, Black, Red doesn't matter. daaahhhhhh maybe I should give up driving off road. hehehe Love ya bro!
I thought it was a 26mm pump but I found out it was a 30mm pump. Pressures were pretty high even with thinner oils. Ended up swapping pumps later on.
I forget where I learned that trick from but it does work worse case. I normally try to do that as a last resort.
Seems the regular single lip red one still works best imo but we all have different opinions and results.
Excelente video, excellent video, you are awesome.. thanks for sharing 👍..
I’m glad it helped you out and thanks for the kind words.
Very good video. Thank you
Thank you for the feedback!
Newbie question. Do you need to check end play while replacing a rear main seal?
Good question.
Assuming your end play was within spec before and you don’t lose any of the shims, no you don’t need to check or change anything for the end play.
IF you were replacing the flywheel, then yes you would as end play can vary slightly between flywheels.
Cool, i needed that, very good thanks
Glad it helped you out.
Stay safe and healthy
Darn good trick love the videos
Patrick McCormick M3 I appreciate that, thanks for being here. Hope you’re staying safe and healthy.
I was surprised when it was your oil galley plug! Didn't see that coming, lol. My buggy has oil seeping all around the bell housing and dripping on the ground so I'm almost certain it's the main seal. The last time I had a similar oil leak it turned out to be a cracked case behind #3.
Yeah I didn’t see what coming either but oh well lol
2 biggest causes for oil leaks in that area are the main seal and cam plug leaking. Oil galley plugs usually don’t leak and then there’s the worst leak, the crack by #3.... sorry yours was the crack 😞
great video as always!
Vdub618 thanks my friend! Hope you’re staying safe and healthy.
Jawbreaker rides again!
✌✌👍👍
Vintage Speed VW jawbreaker just needed a firewall seal lol
Would this seal leak cause it to slip out of 2nd gear on an auto clutch? Ive replace shift arm bushing and linkage as well as numerous attempts at adjusting the clutch arm ect in the rear.
If it ls slipping out of second gear and the other 2 gears in the auto stick are ok, that would be an internal transmission issue.
Thanks for your time.
Of course, thank you for being here.
great video - Thanks Brother! Thanks
Glad you enjoyed the video!
Hey there! Say I notice you lost your shoes? I would hate to think what damage it will do if the flywheel fell on your feet
@@davidrodriguez-rk4ee that’s why you pay attention to what you’re doing and wear the proper ppe when needed.
Gary, great video. Gotta ask yuh, what do you think is going on with my regulator and gauge? Running 1776 w/dual 34's. Install Holly pump, regulator and a low pressure gauge. the gauge will not register unless I place the gauge on one side of the regulator then T off the other side to the carbs. I noticed that you have the gauge inline to the carb. What am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance for your response.
On the regulator, there’s an in and 2 outs on the Holley’s. The gauge will need to be tee’d on one of the outputs before going to the carb. I’ve never had much luck with installing just the gauge on one of the outs and not having it feed anything.
@@VWJawbreaker I first tee'd gauge on one of the out and it didn't read at all. I only got reading when placing it on one of the out's by itself. Btw, where can I order the elect' temp gauge you installed. Thanks again.
@@CasmoD1 that’s odd but if it works let it rip.
I got the electric auto meter temp gauge form Amazon.
great video
Thank you, hope you found it useful.
So I'm in the planning/emotional preparation stage of doing this to the 66 Type II engine on my sand rail. I feel pretty overwhelmed with the task at the moment. How long would you say it take to get the engine out? An hour? 2 hours?
All depends on your skills and how comfortable you are doing mechanical work…. Could take 15-20 minutes to have the engine out, could take 45-60 minutes.
Don’t worry about speed, the more you do something the better you become at it. Take your time and look at it as a learning experience and enjoy the process.
Cool trick with rear seal spring
I can’t take credit for it, someone told me about it or something.... can’t remember that far back.
That is fine, the important thing is that you shared the knowledge with VW community. I do the same things, o share the knowledge I have. However, when I have learned something from one of the VW community RUclips pals; I mentioned them in the videos or share their links. Hope that fixed the oil leak. Awesome.
@@juniorclassicvwbugs924 yes sir, I do the same thing. For me it’s all about the community and helping each other keep these classics on the road. I don’t care about popularity, money from the vids, etc. I’m just trying to pass on what little I know and give back to the community, both VW and local.
Yes; I know what you mean. Same here. Have a superb day.
@@juniorclassicvwbugs924 you as well, stay safe this week.
Lol we just had to do it on our 1776cc very good video
Lara Hadington thank you for that, I had quite a few people ask for a video procedure. Hope you’re doing well and staying healthy and safe.
Been busy on nothing but Volkswagens now that we are on lockdown we all have the time so we built the 1776 and a 1641 with a cam and then the 1915 we just reinstalled to our sandrail it ran crankshaft so we went with a forged counter weighted crank 69mm going to get it fired up for the first time now after lunch
Crazy how we built 3 motors in 2 weeks but there was myself my dad and some friends before the lockdown but now only 2 of us
Only problem is if we need any other spares we can't get any hopefully everything we need is in our hoard of parts
Lara Hadington wow, you’ve been busy! Wish I had more time and cash to build up some engines and I would love to have a rail. I use to hang around a guy when I was a kid that custom built some sweet rails, his frame design and all.... he would mud race them on Saturdays and then take them to shows and win on Sunday’s.
What fuel pump and gauge are you running? How’s it working for you, would you recommend it again? Thanks
James Dearman I’m running the red electric fuel pump CB Performance sells.... found it on amazon for cheaper though. Derale brand.
Gauge is just a mechanical fuel pressure gauge that is plumbed into the low pressure Holley regulator.
Thanks very helpful 👍
No problem 👍
Thank for the video and thanks for the channel list. I will be checking those out. Just got my 2017 on the test stand and fired. I did the brake in, and not without some drama but all seems good now. Somthing that caught my eye is your lower tin with the merged header. Are those just stock lower tins that are cut down to clear the header? I was thinking I will need to do somthing about lower front tins before I install it in the car. Cheers and thank you for the video.
Rob Sannes glad to hear you got the 2017 up and going! There’s usually always some kind of drama and it’s not like we aren’t worked up tight as crap to begin with lol
You are correct, I cut down the sled tins to make them fit the best that I could with the merged exhaust. I have never ran them down here but figured why not since I had a bent up set I could sacrifice.
How do you make sure there is proper drainage back into the crankcase ?
There is a drain back hole already back there.
Check out hover mods if you want to modify the case at all… that’s something that you do when the case is apart before you build it.
A tapered thread shouldn’t need sealant correct?
Correct…. Usually.
Great job . Thanks 😊
Thank you for watching!
Excelent vídeo . Good tips 👍
Thank you for watching 🤙
When I engage the clutch in any gear in my VW it acts like it’s in neutral, sounded like a CV Joint came off when I was cruising down the road, I’m assuming it has the be fly wheel or clutch , so I’m ordering a kit that comes with the main seal and bearing hopefully it’s not the transmission gears
Fingers corseted it’s not the trans and if the flywheel did come off hopefully there’s no damage from that!
Hey man Kevin here from Australia. Thanks for sharing this one I especially love your new safety boots any chance of supplying a link as to were I can get a pair . Anyhoo stay safe and stay well.
✌ Peace man
Kevin Hamling I remembered all of the safety gear this time minus shoes.... I always forget shoes for some reason lol
Stay safe and we’ll my friend.
Thanks for this 👍
Darin Owen you’re more than welcome! Hope it helps you along with your project.... that’s the main reason I do these videos, to help keep these old cars on the road.
Have a great week.
That is what wrenching on a V Dub is all about, just take your time, think, and execute your plan. Well done! I'm getting back into these and remembering and relearning all kinds of stuff. Lost my clutch yesterday, so got up early and began the engine removal. Luckily local shop had what I needed and should go smooth. Thinking of changing out jugs and pistons to 1641 while I got it out to give me a little more pep, never done it but I'm sure it is not that hard any tips welcome.
Thanks for the comment and welcome back to the obsessive hobby! 😂
Good for you for just jumping in and making it happen. Just as you said to me, take your time, do a little research and it shouldn’t be a problem for you if you’re half way mechanically inclined. There’s plenty of videos out there as well that should help you along including the last 2 I just did on calculating and correcting compression ratio. The process would be the same for you to change out your cylinders.
Very hopeful!
Thank you
My car leaking true the motor and gearbox.
You think its the main seal?
Im about to buy main seal and shaft seal :)
Probably a main seal. Don’t forget to change the flywheel o ring if your flywheel has one.
Do you have a rasing cam
Depends on what you think a racing cam is.
Is this the same seal for a 36 hp
Different seal same process.
cool tip!
VW Life thanks. Hope you all are staying safe and healthy!
how about a snap on seal puller
That would probably work as well.
did you get a gopro?
VW Life I didn’t, Levi did for Christmas.... kinda borrowed it.
@@VWJawbreaker ah okay looks good. Make sure you constantly wipe the lens with your shirt. So easy to get smudges. Just something we deal with all the time.
VW Life thanks for the tip, I’ll keep it in mind for sure! Hope to get one down the road when things smooth back out.
3:58 the way you put down that flywheel on its thrust bearing surface 😨
There’s shims between the flywheel and the bearing…. Flywheel is fine.
Nice one
Dean Robinson thank you, hope you’re staying safe and healthy.
Do you have a rasing cam 😂
I feel your pain lol.. Mines done ✔ 😁✌
VW RICH FLAT4 happens to the best of us I guess lol
Hope you’re doing well and staying safe buddy.
@@VWJawbreaker yes so far so good..same to you.
I hope next weekend i can get my clutch & idf ordered to start putting everything back and get the motor back in the car 🙏
All t1's have that oil galley plug? I swear i didnt notice it on mine
VW RICH FLAT4 they do, most cases have an aluminum plug there and not a threaded plug. Aftermarket cases are threaded for all oil galleries. You can pull the aluminum plugs out, tap them and thread in plugs but not with the engine together.... too much of a chance of getting metal pieces in your engine.
@@VWJawbreaker ok awesome..ill take another look. Thank you!
Barefoot in shop, nice for osha.
My garage, my feet. If I’m doing anything that could hurt my feet the boots go on.
Easiest way is to get someone else to do it. Hahaha! Until I found the nick on the edge of the flywheel, I got pretty good replacing rear main seal. A little polishing solved it. Have fun.
Moe
jdmeaux you have a good point there, but where is the self gratification from doing it yourself? 😁
Stay safe and healthy my friend.
@@VWJawbreaker Funny, but my wife keeps telling me to do it myself. Or did she say to myself? I wasn't listening too hard.
jdmeaux funny, mine keeps talking also but I can’t determine what language she’s speaking.
the book calls for IN RECEST for the oil seal ,,,,,this caused me so so much problems when i got into this hobby ! some guys that claimed to be vw mechanics said it goes flush with the case ! but i would have a cut seal within a few miles ,,,,," then i read the book " and little phrase that says make sure the seal goes into the recest ,,,,since that no more issues with that ,,,,,,just saying
I hear ya there, I’ve been told so many different ways over the years. I personally think the seals are a different size than they use to be due to setting them recessed makes them too close to the inner part of the case.
Again, I’m just sharing my personal experience. Thank you for taking time to comment.
@@VWJawbreaker just look at your case on a 1600 that is there is a recess you cant miss it ,,,,i had pictures of seals completely cut and no one would say they new why ! if you have time there is a rebuild by race tv i believe ? if i knew how to put a link in utube i would do it but ,,,check him out when he gets to the seal part ,," he clearly says push the seal in the recess " like i said i never had a cut or leaking seal since that ,,,,,and these people , some of them called themselves pros ! thank you have a great christmas ,,,,,
@@MrGarcon98 I will check it out, thank you for that.
Have a great Christmas and thanks again.
Dude tape some paint sticks to the back of the prybars!
Never heard if that, nice idea!
Dude are you ok? The shakes look rough
Mike Gilbert yeah man, I’m good. I’ve always had them and they get worse when stressed, over tired, etc. Appreciate you asking!
Get a flywheel lock.
I have one, thanks.
FYI, VW's Don't Leak Oil, they mark their spot!
They sweat horsepower 👍
can u. change. mine. whats up $
so whats up.
Please don’t start off with hay youtubers.
It’s evolved into Youtubians.... kind of a thing.
Very helpful!
Glad you found the video helpful!