My 65 is to low and would like to raise it since I cant get in my driveway. The rear end looks easy but Im guessing the front end is a whole different story, my first time to own a bug and learning. I just bought it a month ago.
If you're lucky, the front end is adjustable and won't take much work to lift back up to a more reasonable height. We go over setting an adjustable beam here: ruclips.net/video/JgLbQnqv0Fc/видео.html but there are other styles of adjusters.
Adjustable spring plates don't ride any better or worse than stock. Personally I have never seen a need for them, other than for folks that don't want to spend the time to adjust the factory plates properly.
Great video! Question, is this process the same for a 1956? I just inherited one from my Uncle who's unfortunately passed away, and I'm looking to convert the brakes to discs front and rear. Thanks in advance!
The process is the same, yes. A few things to note on the 56 though, the parking brake cables are not long enough, and we do not have an option that is. Also, the bearing caps will have to be replaced with billet aluminum units to hold the caliper bracket in place.
On swing axle cars, like the one in this video, the camber is controlled by the ride height. Think of it as waving your arms, with your elbows locked. When your arms are parallel to the ground, there would be zero camber at the tire. If you raised your arms (lowered the car) the tires would have negative camber. If you lowered your arms (raised the car) the tires would have positive camber. There is less camber change on IRS rear suspension but the same camber changes will happen. There isn't much adjustment other than ride height to the camber. The slots on the spring plates are used to adjust the toe in or toe out but on IRS models there is some wiggle room for some very small adjustments in camber.
Turning the spring plate up, lifts the axle closer to the body, bringing the tire closer to the body which lowers the car. Turning the spring plate down, would do the opposite, pushing the axle and wheel away from the car, lifting it.
Assuming the bushings are both original, really it wouldn't hurt to replace both, but neither have to be changed. I don't quite follow what you're referring to by "on diagram". Keep in mind, we do have a video where we lower the rear of a 1971 Super Beetle which will be more like your 1973. ruclips.net/video/0zkpQ-h57po/видео.html
Does anybody know what thread is used for the torsion bar caps? I need to get a long one to pull the cap back on as it’s proving a problem on mine - are they M8’s etc?
The bolts have a 10x1.5mm thread. The length depends on whether you have single or dual spring plates. Over the counter bolts will probably have a 17mm head which is too large to fit in the spring plate cap so a hex socket cap screw would be recommended.
I'm having problems with the axel not moving past the spring plate for me to go further. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. I don't really want to remove the motor to move the gear box back to free up the axel from the spring plate. TIA
You have to loosen up the emergency brake cables all the way sometimes remove nuts completely make sure in neutral then use your muscle to pull back on axle , dont be scared it's easy
We had initially planned on using them on our 1963 Resto Custom Beetle but we went with a much wider than stock tire that wouldn’t clear the plates. We do plan on installing them on a restoration in the future though. As for the installation, it is exactly the same as the standard plates, but once they are installed, they can be adjusted with the allen screw.
Question ... I have a 68, also have BRM wheels, fronts are 4 1/2 wide and the rears are 5 1/2 wide. My problem is that the tire sits about an 1” just outside the fender. Is this because of the “1 offset? Also will lowering the rear like the video change my camber (negative) so the tire tucks? I want the tires to tuck. Or do I need to switch the rear wheels to 4 1/2s to change the offset. currently I’m running 195/60/15 in the back and 145s up front .... any feedback is helpful ... Thanks
The offset of the wheels along with the long axles and tubes on the 1968 transmission is why the wheels stick out further than those on our 63. Lowering the rear end will cause the top to tuck in, more so the lower the rear is dropped but it may not be enough to clear the tire.
The torsion bar sticks out of the housing slightly, early models just a bit, later models much more so. The spring plate (or torsion arm) doesn't slide inside the torsion housing, it sits at the edge, lining up with the torsion bar.
For swing axle and single spring plate applications the bolts are 15mm long, 10x1.5mm threaded bolts , and original VW units have a 15mm hex head. You can use a generic, 17mm head bolt, or you can use an allen head cap bolt for more clearance.
When we park it is not an emergency and a flash is a bright light that comes and goes. We also call pants trousers pants are worn beneath said pants. Pants is also used when we use it as nonsense, like "That is a load of pants!"
By doing this your moving the plate up , which causes the axle assembly to sit higher , so when cars on the ground again it pushes the axle up creating camber ( gearbox axle end sits lower than the drum axle end / if that makes sense )
Thanks for the vid. I have my 4 bushings and I am ready to install them. In my manual and on other sites I am seeing that there is an outer left/inner right and inner left/outer right bushing. I do see very subtle differences in the bushings I received as a set of 4. Can you elaborate? Mine is a '63. Thanks
Correct, there is an outer left / inner right and an inner left / outer right bushing. Test fit the bushings to see which bushings fit best, for the most part you have a 50/50 shot. Not a whole lot to it.
@@Sam_Mebane Thanks. I figured they were different parts for a reason. For anyone else, looks like the bushings with the 2 raised dots are left inner, right outer. The ones with the single raised dot are left outer/right inner.
The procedure is just about the same, yes. Keep an eye out for an IRS lowering video coming in a month or 2 as we are a day or two away from lowering the rear of our 1971.
Let me ask you this Sam...on a Bug with stock ride height that's sitting on the ground, is the bottom of the spring plate supposed to rest on the lower stop (which is a few inches away from the end where the torsion bars are) or does it normally sit above the stop by some amount? My '68 no longer has its equalizer spring and it seems to me to be sitting low but I can't find any definitive info how high off the ground the back end is supposed to be. The spring plates are about 1/2" off the lower stop when the car is on the ground.
The spring plates shouldn't be touching the torsion housing at ride height, no. Otherwise there would be a constant "knock" while driving. Anything the suspension compressed a bit and then came back to level, the spring plate would hit the torsion housing and the metal on metal clang would be quite annoying for a street car. Ground clearance was listed at about 6" from VW originally. More or less, there should be about 3" or so from the top of a stock tire to the bottom edge of the fender, and the car should sit level. More often than not, the rear suspension will sag over the years so it is possible your car is low in the rear, even if it is stock.
Yes, we do have a video where we covered lowering the rear of a 1963 Beetle here which should answer most all of your questions: ruclips.net/video/EHKDel7dW8M/видео.html
Absolutely, the lower ride height will ride stiffer than stock. We removed the bump stops so it won't be very bouncy. However the lower ride height limits the amount of travel so when the suspension does bottom out, with the bump stops removed the suspension will hit metal to metal. We installed the adjustable Koni shock absorbers to stiffen up the ride further and help eliminate some of the metal to metal contact. Just the same, lowering the car changes the way the car rides. Some like the change, others do not.
Good video you also give measurements for each spline good job
I've got a Sandrail I have been wanting to soften the suspension on. This gave me all the information that I needed.
Thank you.
Great videos I like them you God is amazing thank you so much❤
Thank you John, indeed! Psalm 135:3
I love you guys videos.🤙Thank you
Great video, and yes it worked... JUST bought like 150$ parts!!!
Helped me a lot!
Adjustable suspension height is stock from the factory?Damn, this car is amazing.I gotta get one.
Scott S Honestly it is FREE to lower the back! Great set up
Great help!!! I was wishing you showed a better finial stance picture at the end of the video.
Check the end of this video:
ruclips.net/video/JgLbQnqv0Fc/видео.html
THANK YOUUUUUU
My 65 is to low and would like to raise it since I cant get in my driveway. The rear end looks easy but Im guessing the front end is a whole different story, my first time to own a bug and learning. I just bought it a month ago.
If you're lucky, the front end is adjustable and won't take much work to lift back up to a more reasonable height.
We go over setting an adjustable beam here: ruclips.net/video/JgLbQnqv0Fc/видео.html but there are other styles of adjusters.
Is there any change in ride quality with adjustable spring plates? I purchased them but see no reason to install since seeing your video
Adjustable spring plates don't ride any better or worse than stock. Personally I have never seen a need for them, other than for folks that don't want to spend the time to adjust the factory plates properly.
Great video! Question, is this process the same for a 1956? I just inherited one from my Uncle who's unfortunately passed away, and I'm looking to convert the brakes to discs front and rear. Thanks in advance!
The process is the same, yes. A few things to note on the 56 though, the parking brake cables are not long enough, and we do not have an option that is. Also, the bearing caps will have to be replaced with billet aluminum units to hold the caliper bracket in place.
Thanks Sam. Do you have a part number for these caps? I'm searching for them on JBUGS and I'm only seeing results for front caps. Thanks! @@Sam_Mebane
@@chainsaw_monday www.jbugs.com/product/17-2700.html
Is it possible to adjust rear camber on a Bug?
On swing axle cars, like the one in this video, the camber is controlled by the ride height. Think of it as waving your arms, with your elbows locked. When your arms are parallel to the ground, there would be zero camber at the tire. If you raised your arms (lowered the car) the tires would have negative camber. If you lowered your arms (raised the car) the tires would have positive camber. There is less camber change on IRS rear suspension but the same camber changes will happen. There isn't much adjustment other than ride height to the camber.
The slots on the spring plates are used to adjust the toe in or toe out but on IRS models there is some wiggle room for some very small adjustments in camber.
How’d you get 5” lowering the rear by turning the spring plate UP two notches? I don’t understand…
Turning the spring plate up, lifts the axle closer to the body, bringing the tire closer to the body which lowers the car. Turning the spring plate down, would do the opposite, pushing the axle and wheel away from the car, lifting it.
0n 73 beetle when lowering should you change other side bushing or leave it alone,also on diagram so both ends turn separately right
Assuming the bushings are both original, really it wouldn't hurt to replace both, but neither have to be changed. I don't quite follow what you're referring to by "on diagram". Keep in mind, we do have a video where we lower the rear of a 1971 Super Beetle which will be more like your 1973. ruclips.net/video/0zkpQ-h57po/видео.html
Does anybody know what thread is used for the torsion bar caps? I need to get a long one to pull the cap back on as it’s proving a problem on mine - are they M8’s etc?
The bolts have a 10x1.5mm thread. The length depends on whether you have single or dual spring plates. Over the counter bolts will probably have a 17mm head which is too large to fit in the spring plate cap so a hex socket cap screw would be recommended.
I'm having problems with the axel not moving past the spring plate for me to go further. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
I don't really want to remove the motor to move the gear box back to free up the axel from the spring plate.
TIA
You have to loosen up the emergency brake cables all the way sometimes remove nuts completely make sure in neutral then use your muscle to pull back on axle , dont be scared it's easy
06 has this covered, yes. Loosening the cables should give you enough slack.
I wish you used the empi adjustable spring plates. I bought these from you and I have no idea how to use them
We had initially planned on using them on our 1963 Resto Custom Beetle but we went with a much wider than stock tire that wouldn’t clear the plates. We do plan on installing them on a restoration in the future though. As for the installation, it is exactly the same as the standard plates, but once they are installed, they can be adjusted with the allen screw.
Question ... I have a 68, also have BRM wheels, fronts are 4 1/2 wide and the rears are 5 1/2 wide. My problem is that the tire sits about an 1” just outside the fender. Is this because of the “1 offset? Also will lowering the rear like the video change my camber (negative) so the tire tucks? I want the tires to tuck. Or do I need to switch the rear wheels to 4 1/2s to change the offset. currently I’m running 195/60/15 in the back and 145s up front .... any feedback is helpful ... Thanks
The offset of the wheels along with the long axles and tubes on the 1968 transmission is why the wheels stick out further than those on our 63. Lowering the rear end will cause the top to tuck in, more so the lower the rear is dropped but it may not be enough to clear the tire.
Wait, why are the teeth on the torsion arm pointing out instead of in meeting with the torsion bar??
The torsion bar sticks out of the housing slightly, early models just a bit, later models much more so. The spring plate (or torsion arm) doesn't slide inside the torsion housing, it sits at the edge, lining up with the torsion bar.
Do you know where i can get the bolts for the spring plate cap?
For swing axle and single spring plate applications the bolts are 15mm long, 10x1.5mm threaded bolts , and original VW units have a 15mm hex head. You can use a generic, 17mm head bolt, or you can use an allen head cap bolt for more clearance.
@@Sam_Mebane Thank you!
Terrific but would be better without the "music" We call the emergency brake a parking or hand brake.
Brits call flashlights torches.
When we park it is not an emergency and a flash is a bright light that comes and goes. We also call pants trousers pants are worn beneath said pants. Pants is also used when we use it as nonsense, like "That is a load of pants!"
If i want to make high, i will do the opposite right? My kombi very low
Yes, either the torsion bar or the spring plate, or a combination of both would be turned down to lift the rear, yes.
My dune buggy has the ride of a fork lift---no rear suspension at all. Does lowering it make it softer? If not, how do I make it softer?
"Lowering" the rear suspension, or just reindexing the rear suspension to take some of the preload of the spring plates may help, yes.
Lowering it will give it a lower center of gravity so it won't roll as easy plus get softer shocks
Any reason why I would get some negative camber after completing this job?
By doing this your moving the plate up , which causes the axle assembly to sit higher , so when cars on the ground again it pushes the axle up creating camber ( gearbox axle end sits lower than the drum axle end / if that makes sense )
The suspension design causes negative camber the lower the car goes. Swing axle cars will have more negative camber than IRS cars.
What if I want to lift my bug do I turn the torsion bar down?
Either the torsion bar or the spring plate, or a combination of both would be turned down to lift the rear, yes.
Thanks for the vid. I have my 4 bushings and I am ready to install them. In my manual and on other sites I am seeing that there is an outer left/inner right and inner left/outer right bushing. I do see very subtle differences in the bushings I received as a set of 4. Can you elaborate? Mine is a '63. Thanks
Correct, there is an outer left / inner right and an inner left / outer right bushing. Test fit the bushings to see which bushings fit best, for the most part you have a 50/50 shot. Not a whole lot to it.
@@Sam_Mebane Thanks. I figured they were different parts for a reason. For anyone else, looks like the bushings with the 2 raised dots are left inner, right outer. The ones with the single raised dot are left outer/right inner.
Do you have any issues with tire rub? If so what have you done to correct?
We have not had any problems with tires rubbing. Typically the solution is a smaller tire if you do have issues.
Did you do a 2.5 inch spindle drop on the front of the car?
Yes, along with an adjustable beam.
I have a 1969 Beetle. Would the procedure be the same for it?
The procedure is just about the same, yes. Keep an eye out for an IRS lowering video coming in a month or 2 as we are a day or two away from lowering the rear of our 1971.
Thank you!
Let me ask you this Sam...on a Bug with stock ride height that's sitting on the ground, is the bottom of the spring plate supposed to rest on the lower stop (which is a few inches away from the end where the torsion bars are) or does it normally sit above the stop by some amount? My '68 no longer has its equalizer spring and it seems to me to be sitting low but I can't find any definitive info how high off the ground the back end is supposed to be. The spring plates are about 1/2" off the lower stop when the car is on the ground.
The spring plates shouldn't be touching the torsion housing at ride height, no. Otherwise there would be a constant "knock" while driving. Anything the suspension compressed a bit and then came back to level, the spring plate would hit the torsion housing and the metal on metal clang would be quite annoying for a street car. Ground clearance was listed at about 6" from VW originally. More or less, there should be about 3" or so from the top of a stock tire to the bottom edge of the fender, and the car should sit level. More often than not, the rear suspension will sag over the years so it is possible your car is low in the rear, even if it is stock.
Do you have to remove back shocks?
Yes, we do have a video where we covered lowering the rear of a 1963 Beetle here which should answer most all of your questions: ruclips.net/video/EHKDel7dW8M/видео.html
Do the shocks need to be adjusted for the 5" drop as shown in the video? I just did the exact same thing and need new shocks. Thank you.
Stock length shocks don't need to be replaced when going this low, no. Your shocks may have been longer than original.
Stock height is best for the car. Eventually, you will tire of bottoming out, boot replacement, and tire wear.
To each their own, there are just as many people that like lowered cars as they do stock height or even lifted.
What type of grease do you use for the bushings?
Silicone based spray lube or grease is best for rubber bushings.
Cyprian Skiba typically K78 carbon fiber grease is used but if you’re on a budget, Jerry curl may be substituted
This has to be done on both sides, correct?
Correct, the spring plated must be adjusted on both sides in order to lower the suspension properly.
Does this affect the ride at all? More bouncy?
Absolutely, the lower ride height will ride stiffer than stock. We removed the bump stops so it won't be very bouncy. However the lower ride height limits the amount of travel so when the suspension does bottom out, with the bump stops removed the suspension will hit metal to metal. We installed the adjustable Koni shock absorbers to stiffen up the ride further and help eliminate some of the metal to metal contact. Just the same, lowering the car changes the way the car rides. Some like the change, others do not.