600 -1200 grit are for fine finish or a mirror finish, when staining or painting wood in general the grain can raise slightly or there will be some furry bits which will need to be smoothed out generally after the first coat so you need a sandpaper that will do this. As you apply more coats, (two or more) the surface should be relatively smooth and this is when you could use 600 - 1200 wet/n/dry to get what is called a mirror finish, generally three or more tops coats are needed to achieve this.
Always great videos question I have I just stained similar pony wall counter top I noticed you didnt use any clear coat in the end on the counter top is it really important to do or need to?
The white marks are more then likely just sanding dust, use a damp cloth to remove the dust, general when you apply a coat of clear any remaining marks will disappear. As for sandpaper, when dealing with stain varnish I would say 240 to 320. The surface should be smooth before you apply stain varnish and its best if you seal (clear sealer) the timber before applying. I hope this is of some help,
I sprayed it and noticed it was still sticky so I proceeded to sanding it only to find out I made a mistake, after sanding it, there were white marks left behind from the sand paper so I sprayed it again, what is the recommended sand paper grit that I should be using?
Hey great video. Very helpful. Just a couple of questions. Did you pretreat the timber with anything? Sanding sealer, wood conditioner? What did you "wet" the rags with? Water or turps? Is the stain an oil base or water base stain? Cheers.
If you are going to stain timber the only thing you will need to do is sand any rough bits and sand out any marks like pencil marks etc. A wood conditioner will seal the timber which is something you don't want to do, you want the stain to soak in. The rage has stain on it and it is an oil based stain. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe
@@howtopaintinfo Hi , what if I already applied the wood conditioner. Can I still mix that product with the oil based?? I’m doing the floor ! Please let me know before staining it..
Can the stain be applied directly on any type of wood or there is a prep process to be done?I found a marvelous bedside table good wood quality but i wanna change the color. Will the stain covers the grain,curves, ovals patterns that are naturally shown, i d rather not to.Thank you
Stain can only be use on bare timber unless you use a stain varnish which can be used over existing clear finishes. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
+Fernando Ceja I'm using an oil based stain, water based stains dry too quick so you don't get as much working time with them. If you want to use a water base stain you should use it straight from the can or if you want to water it down you should add water to all of it. The reason is that when thinning it will affect the thickness of depth of the stain (it will most likely look lighter) so if you want a consistent colour you should thin as much as you think you will need.
I've applied Dark Walnut oil stain to a piece of maple pretty much following the instructions in the video. Instead of the nice, uniform result as in the video I have a piece of wood that is very dark in some spots and much lighter in others. I would post a picture if I could (or knew how, I know, I'm a n00b). Is there anything I can do to fix this or do I have to start over?
Clay Porter Are you using a water based stain? Water based stains dry a lot quicker and are harder to work with, oil based stains stay wetter longer so you have more time to work with it. If using water based stains maybe have a damp cloth handy and wipe over any area's that look too dark but that needs to be done when stain is first applied. Now is it possible that the timber you stained had oily patches on it or any kind contaminate that stopped the stain from soaking in. You could try to re stain over the timber as it is and see what happens, you might be lucky and doing this will solve your problem. It is hard for me to judge without seeing it.
howtopaintinfo after i stain wood and let it dry. when i rub my hands across the surface, it gets on my hands a little bit. did i apply too much stain? or is there something else i need to do as well?
Use the rag method .. have a few rags around to get that excess off ... should take 1 coat. Wait 1 or more days and then coat with urethane or whatever. Staining floors is pretty easy and quick. Stain, wipe off access as you go.
+123 456 Depends on what stain you used, if you used a water based stain then you will need to apply a water based clear finish, if you used oil based stain then you will need to apply an oil based clear finish.
I have a VERY old jarrah ( or so I believe) cupboard which I would like to stain an American oak colour ( so it matches the American oak cupboards in my kitchen.) Is this at all possible to do?
its easy to make a light colour timber look darker but its hard to make dark colour timber look lighter. All you can do is try a sample piece and see if you can get it to match. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
Don't sand the stain, it you do you will remove the stain and end up with it looking patchy. If you noticed some thing that looks really bad you could sand back that section and re-stain. Apply the polyurethane then sand. Don't forget to, like, subscribe and share this video.
PLEASE HELP ME! I’m BEYOND frustrated!...I’m using General Finishes Gel Stain (oil based) and after applying and resending THREE times, I’m starting to think I’m never going to get the hang of this! When I apply thinner coats with a lint free rag, it comes out blotchy and not half as dark as I need it to be. BUT...when I apply with a bristled paint brush, I get paint lines. No matter how lightly I do this. Im also getting stain lift, with both application methods. My second problem is...every time I go to wipe off the access product, I’m getting lines in my wood! I’m using a lint free rag and doing this with a very very light hand. * I’m staining over bare wood (maple), that I started sanding with 150 and ended with 220. I’ve also used a pre conditioner, shook and stirred the can thoroughly. Thank you so much for you video and you did a beautiful job on your piece!! You obviously know the technique, that I’m desperately searching for. So I REALLY hope to hear back from you!!! Thanks again!!
When wiping off don't do it gently use some pressure when wiping off the excess stain. I'm not a fan of pre conditioner as it seals the timber and the stain doesn't soak in the same. So if I was to pin point the issue I would say it was the pre conditioner. I could be wrong but maybe try a bare piece of timber you have or get an off cut from a hardware and try that without using conditioner. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
howtopaintinfo Wow!! Ok that does make sense! The wood is maple and doesn’t seem very porous to begin with. So perhaps I shouldn’t have used that. What about the tacky drag marks I’m getting around some of the edges? Does that mean it started to dry in those areas? THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!! I appreciate this more than you know!!
TheStephenBaker Cotton rags (old bed sheets) are better as they don't leave lint behind. Often while wiping over the surface with a rag little bits of the clothe will get caught on the timber, cotton is less likely to do this.
Hi, after using a can of spray to stain my timber (Stain and Varnish), I've noticed that there were drips which is why I am planning on using a tinned stain. If I was to buy Stain and Varnish (all in one), to get a smooth surface, would I have to stain it, sand it and then give it another stain? Because with the spray (couldn't fit the whole sentence)
I got a wattyl english mahogany timber stain I want to apply it to my timber which is radiata pinewood should I sand it or wipe it with water because people are telling me to wipe it with water and others are telling me to sand it what should I do ?
coolkid111111100 The surface should be clean before applying the stain, you could sand it first to get the timber nice clean and also sand out any marks in the timber. You could also use a wood cleaner and wash the timber but it should be dry before applying the stain.
On my website you will find information on how to apply stain varnish, if you have used stain varnish then sanded the surface you may find area's where it has gone back to bare timber, there is a chance that if you use a stain that is the same colour you maybe able to apply just the stain then a few coats of clear. Stain varnishes are hard to use, I personally hardly ever use them.
@howtopaintinfo Hi,I bought a 2nd hand hardwood table,sanded it all down to remove the existing stain (pine) and wanted to do it light oak. I bought Dulux woodstain which is 2 in 1,it has the stain and satin lacquer all in one,i tested a sample on the table top (my kitchen table) and have only given it 1 coat so far,but it did NOT stain as good and as quickly as your ledge in the video. Is this because i bought a 2 in 1 varnish/stain? Is it always better to stain first then over coat with a protective clear lacquer or varnish later? I just tried another quick coat (2nd coat) on what i already did and it has gone darker already but there are brush marks and where ive overlapped in places it looks light and darker,there seems to be no consistency with it,is it because the paint product is rubbish or is it my technique? , whats your best advice to restain a fully sanded down hard wood kitchen table to change from pine to light oak and get a finish thats equal everywhere,i.e., no dark or light patches?
perhaps your table needed a preconditioner ... so, strip again (sanding usually) ... w/raw wood, preconditioner then stain then varnish. Not a fan of 2-in-1 products. Stain likely cost you about $1 for the table top (extra from small can I would imagine ~ little goes long way).
In this video I'm using a straight stain without varnish as it's easier to use and easier to get a uniform finish. Stain varnishes are harder to use as you don't wipe off excess as you do with stain and any over lap marks will stand out. Also as it is a stain and varnish all in one the more coats you apply the dark the colour will be. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
No but if you are worried about it looking a bit dark you could but then it might look lighter when finished. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
You can use what ever you like but it may not last as long as other products suited for floors. You could use an exterior decking oil and that would work. Varnishes also come in a Matt finish if you are worried about the shine of a Gloss.
howtopaintinfo Thanks I was wondering if it was down to fumes given off but I will paint much of this outside then take in when dry. The house is 300+ years old and I want a darker stain MID OAK to give the look of age to it. They didn't have varnish 300 years back but if I find I need it I will add it a few months later. I am just using pine for cost 8.5" wide compared to the original 12". The old pine has had worm in it so I also want to give both sides of the wood some form or protection. I think an exterior fence finish should have insect repellent of some form and also still be good to handle with limited health risks.
Well I was going to say I can't remember but I had a quick look at some old video and managed to read the label, so it's a Wattyl stain and the colour is Teak.
I just bought wood stain from Lowes and applied as you did and when I went to wipe it off it was like tar, could barely remove and it barely stained the wood. What am I doing wrong? I sanded the entire piece then cleaned it off then stained.
sounds like it had polyurethane already in it. I did my front door with it and the same thing happened to me. we had to put it on so fast because it dried really dark in some places and light in the others will never buy stain with poly in it again.
I would suggest hold off for a while till the wood has dried. Chemically treated wood can have a greater moisture level than green wood. If you apply now when its wet, you might ruin your wood and waste your stain.
i am lazy and dont wont to wipe it off, rather just let it dry on its own however it does, what will be my side effects? this is just going to be used for a wooden flat deck on a truck that is my bush truck. just thought I would stain and clear coat it for a half ass decent look.
I tried staining a chest of drawers & the stain came right off, did 2 coats & the color didn’t change one bit. Sanded it down before hand & i put a wood conditioner
Wood conditioner i really don't understand. As soon as you apply anything to the surface of bare timber it seals it, so the wood conditioner is sealing the timber. Once the timber is sealed then the stain won't penetrate in to the timber, it will more so sit on top. I know someone else left a comment with the same issue, my suggestion is not to use wood conditioner. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe
It would be best if you use gloves. I'm using oil based stain so I wash my hands with Mineral Turpentine or I will use a industrial hand cleaner. I don't recommend washing your hands with mineral turps as it can burn / hurt when washing soft skin.
I learned to use gloves when staining it is a pain to get off & at the end of the board against wall I would have taped it off. I am actually doing a pony wall counter top like this I tore the old wood off completely & bought new wood so I am staining top & bottom then glaze coat it later then attach it to the pony wall.
Yes it would be best to use gloves but I personally don't like the feel of gloves so that's why I don't use them. As for the wall, it's a new house and the walls still need a few more coats of paint. Personally I think its just as quick to touch up the area as it is to tape, it would be different if the walls were finished then tape should be used. When working on new work staining should always be done ASAP even before any paint is applied. In this case the timber was put on after we had painted the walls but before final coats. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
There's not much you can do about it, the only thing that may help it to thin the stain down when doing the end grain. I can't say I have tried it as I have had no need to but it might work.
You could use a sanding sealer, that will seal all the wood, then apply a Stain Varnish. That should give you a more even look but Stain Varnishes are harder to apply, as in it is harder to get an even finish.
yes its very important to sand the wood before going into staining. start with 80 grit(coarse), then continue to sand with 120 or 150 grit, after with 220 grit and then with 320 grit. you can keep sanding with higher grits after like 400 or 600 till the surface feels smooth. you can stain without sanding but the surface wont take in the stain very uniform and you will see imperfections in the wood.
JOSE RAMOS i tried staining my wooden longboard, i sanded it down, made its super smooth, did the stain & cloth technique and all of it came off :D like ive never put any staining on :D
Have no idea if your being sarcastic, but sanding is a standard when staining any wooden material. My question to you is if your longboard's made out of solid wood or something like mdf or particleboard because those will not take a stain very well if not at all. Always make sure to let the stain dry for a couple minutes as well so as to let the material absorb the paint, then wipe off the excess.
JOSE RAMOS yeah eventually did that, applied a few coats to darken it too, looks amazing :D and immagine if a longboard was made out of MDF XD it would be a suicide.
You can wipe with rag but most people wouldn't put enough stain on when doing it that way, but yes you can do that way just make sure you use plenty of stain. Have a happy new year.. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe
First just check to see if you are using an oil based or water based stain. Oil based stains are easy to use and generally wipe off easy. Water base stains dry quicker and can be a bit harder to work with, maybe you are going back over it too much and the stain is building up, that can happen easily with water based stains. Don't forget to like, share and subscribe.
I messed up and brushed on a kona color to a raw bookshelf. Didn't wipe with rag. Very dark. Too late though guess I'll just brush on some varnish and deal with it.
Some times it can still be wiped with a rag with turps on it and it will remove some or you will just have to sand it back. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
YesMan85 If you were to get bubbles they would disappear when going over with a rag and shaking to bottle is to make sure tint on bottom of tin is mixed in.
Hi, We enjoyed your video is very beautiful as well as more creative. We watched it until end of this video. We SUBSCRIBED your channel. Thank you for sharing your opinions. 우리는 귀하의 비디오가 매우 아름답고 더 창의적인 것을 즐겼습니다. 이 비디오가 끝날 때까지 보았습니다. 채널을 구독했습니다. 의견을 보내 주셔서 감사합니다. Vi nød, at din video er meget smuk og mere kreativ. Vi så det indtil slutningen af denne video. Vi har TILBUDET din kanal. Tak, fordi du deler dine meninger. We hebben genoten van je video is erg mooi en creatiever. We hebben het bekeken tot het einde van deze video. We hebben je kanaal INGESCHREVEN. Bedankt voor het delen van uw meningen. Nous avons apprécié que votre vidéo soit très belle et plus créative. Nous l'avons regardé jusqu'à la fin de cette vidéo. Nous avons ABONNÉ votre chaîne. Merci d'avoir partagé vos opinions. हमें मज़ा आया कि आपका वीडियो बहुत सुंदर है और साथ ही अधिक रचनात्मक है। हमने इस वीडियो के अंत तक इसे देखा। हमने आपके चैनल को SUBSCRIBED किया। अपने विचार सांझा करने के लिए धन्यवाद। Mir hu gär datt Äre Video ganz schéin ass wéi och méi kreativ. Mir hunn et bis Enn vun dësem Video gekuckt. Mir SUBSCRIBED Äre Kanal. Merci fir Är Meenungen. Disfrutamos que tu video es muy hermoso y creativo. Lo vimos hasta el final de este video. SUSCRIBIMOS tu canal. Gracias por compartir sus opiniones. Vi tyckte att din video är väldigt vacker och mer kreativ. Vi tittade på det tills slutet av den här videon. Vi TILLBAKA din kanal. Tack för att du delar dina åsikter. استمتعنا الفيديو الخاص بك جميلة جداً وكذلك أكثر إبداعًا. شاهدنا ذلك حتى نهاية هذا الفيديو. لقد اشتركنا في قناتك. شكرا لك على مشاركة آرائك. 我们喜欢您的视频非常漂亮并且更具创意。我们一直观看到本视频结束。 我们订阅了您的频道。 感谢您分享您的意见
Well that choice is yours, I personally don't used them but maybe they would be of some benefit when using water based stains. I generally use only oil based stains. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe.
Benny Hannah Simple, if you are dealing with stained timber then there is a chance of it being scratched while being installed. Also I'm a painter not a carpenter, the carpenter installs the timber then I stain it.
I stopped the moment I saw you shaking the vinyl like an idiot. The FIRST thing you don't want to do is shake the damn thing so as to introduce air bubbles! The hell you doing?
Horrible, The way you were wiping the wood will leave rag marks all over the finish when its sprayed. You cant just rub the rag over the top of everything, long even strokes so you dont stop the rag on any part of the wood.
The idea of wiping of the excess stain is so it comes out looking even There are no rag marks or wiping marks because the stain has been absorbed in to the timber and you are only remove the excess. Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe
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Thanks for making all videos so easy to follow and simple. Makes it so easy for first time DIY housewife like me!!
Brittani Juneau I glad you found it easy to follow.
Thanks alot. Im now ready to stain my mantle. I had no idea how to stain before your video.
I"m glad this video has helped.
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howtopaintinfo yes this was a very good video I was only continue to stain the ends at the same time
600 -1200 grit are for fine finish or a mirror finish, when staining or painting wood in general the grain can raise slightly or there will be some furry bits which will need to be smoothed out generally after the first coat so you need a sandpaper that will do this. As you apply more coats, (two or more) the surface should be relatively smooth and this is when you could use 600 - 1200 wet/n/dry to get what is called a mirror finish, generally three or more tops coats are needed to achieve this.
Filmed by the Blair Witch Project camera team?
LOL!!! Ya...the background sounds were creepy!
meedily dumb comment
If you look closely you can see someone standing in facing the corner in the other room.
One of my first efforts of doing a video. Better then nothing
Ranga grabbed the camera
never shake wood stain!!! It will cause bubbling.
donovan612ify Lol
donovan612ify That's for polyurethane isn't it? Not wood stain.
That's finish. Stains are so thin it won't matter.
donovan612ify thanks i was about to shake it so just remember yhe opposite of james bond martini
Nice wood stain quick to dry ..
Always great videos question I have I just stained similar pony wall counter top I noticed you didnt use any clear coat in the end on the counter top is it really important to do or need to?
i did put a coat of clear over it and yes it is important because the stain will wear in time.
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The white marks are more then likely just sanding dust, use a damp cloth to remove the dust, general when you apply a coat of clear any remaining marks will disappear. As for sandpaper, when dealing with stain varnish I would say 240 to 320. The surface should be smooth before you apply stain varnish and its best if you seal (clear sealer) the timber before applying. I hope this is of some help,
I sprayed it and noticed it was still sticky so I proceeded to sanding it only to find out I made a mistake, after sanding it, there were white marks left behind from the sand paper so I sprayed it again, what is the recommended sand paper grit that I should be using?
Hey great video. Very helpful. Just a couple of questions.
Did you pretreat the timber with anything? Sanding sealer, wood conditioner?
What did you "wet" the rags with? Water or turps?
Is the stain an oil base or water base stain?
Cheers.
If you are going to stain timber the only thing you will need to do is sand any rough bits and sand out any marks like pencil marks etc. A wood conditioner will seal the timber which is something you don't want to do, you want the stain to soak in. The rage has stain on it and it is an oil based stain.
Don't forget to Like, Share and Subscribe
@@howtopaintinfo
Hi , what if I already applied the wood conditioner. Can I still mix that product with the oil based?? I’m doing the floor ! Please let me know before staining it..
Can the stain be applied directly on any type of wood or there is a prep process to be done?I found a marvelous bedside table good wood quality but i wanna change the color. Will the stain covers the grain,curves, ovals patterns that are naturally shown, i d rather not to.Thank you
If it's not plain wood, you have to sand it first.
Stain can only be use on bare timber unless you use a stain varnish which can be used over existing clear finishes.
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Thanks man I just stained my first desk huge thumbs up.
Great to hear.
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If you don't use a rag you will risk leaving thick areas of stain on the surface, these areas will show out darker then the rest.
do you have to mix that stain with a little bit of water or just use it like that?
+Fernando Ceja I'm using an oil based stain, water based stains dry too quick so you don't get as much working time with them. If you want to use a water base stain you should use it straight from the can or if you want to water it down you should add water to all of it. The reason is that when thinning it will affect the thickness of depth of the stain (it will most likely look lighter) so if you want a consistent colour you should thin as much as you think you will need.
I've applied Dark Walnut oil stain to a piece of maple pretty much following the instructions in the video. Instead of the nice, uniform result as in the video I have a piece of wood that is very dark in some spots and much lighter in others. I would post a picture if I could (or knew how, I know, I'm a n00b). Is there anything I can do to fix this or do I have to start over?
Clay Porter Are you using a water based stain? Water based stains dry a lot quicker and are harder to work with, oil based stains stay wetter longer so you have more time to work with it. If using water based stains maybe have a damp cloth handy and wipe over any area's that look too dark but that needs to be done when stain is first applied. Now is it possible that the timber you stained had oily patches on it or any kind contaminate that stopped the stain from soaking in. You could try to re stain over the timber as it is and see what happens, you might be lucky and doing this will solve your problem. It is hard for me to judge without seeing it.
howtopaintinfo after i stain wood and let it dry. when i rub my hands across the surface, it gets on my hands a little bit. did i apply too much stain? or is there something else i need to do as well?
Thanks. I learned how stain the wood properly.
Good to hear.
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howtopaintinfo subscribed, by the way i started to stain a dresser and it went on thick like paint, any ideas why?
I am going to stain tongue and groove pine already put up on the room of a room, would I follow a similar method?
Use the rag method .. have a few rags around to get that excess off ... should take 1 coat. Wait 1 or more days and then coat with urethane or whatever. Staining floors is pretty easy and quick. Stain, wipe off access as you go.
What David Mcbeth said is about right.
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What are you supposed to put on after you stain the wood?
+123 456 Depends on what stain you used, if you used a water based stain then you will need to apply a water based clear finish, if you used oil based stain then you will need to apply an oil based clear finish.
I have a VERY old jarrah ( or so I believe) cupboard which I would like to stain an American oak colour ( so it matches the American oak cupboards in my kitchen.) Is this at all possible to do?
its easy to make a light colour timber look darker but its hard to make dark colour timber look lighter. All you can do is try a sample piece and see if you can get it to match.
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@@howtopaintinfo thanks for the advice
do you have to sand the stain before applying polyurethane coating? then do you sand after the coating?
Don't sand the stain, it you do you will remove the stain and end up with it looking patchy. If you noticed some thing that looks really bad you could sand back that section and re-stain. Apply the polyurethane then sand.
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+howtopaintinfo Thanks!
With what do you wash your hand after?
PLEASE HELP ME!
I’m BEYOND frustrated!...I’m using General Finishes Gel Stain (oil based) and after applying and resending THREE times, I’m starting to think I’m never going to get the hang of this!
When I apply thinner coats with a lint free rag,
it comes out blotchy and not half as dark as I need it to be. BUT...when I apply with a bristled paint brush, I get paint lines. No matter how lightly I do this.
Im also getting stain lift, with both application methods.
My second problem is...every time I go to wipe off the access product, I’m getting lines in my wood! I’m using a lint free rag and doing this with a very very light hand.
* I’m staining over bare wood (maple), that I started sanding with 150 and ended with 220.
I’ve also used a pre conditioner, shook and stirred the can thoroughly.
Thank you so much for you video and you did a beautiful job on your piece!! You obviously know the technique, that I’m desperately searching for. So I REALLY hope to hear back from you!!! Thanks again!!
When wiping off don't do it gently use some pressure when wiping off the excess stain. I'm not a fan of pre conditioner as it seals the timber and the stain doesn't soak in the same. So if I was to pin point the issue I would say it was the pre conditioner. I could be wrong but maybe try a bare piece of timber you have or get an off cut from a hardware and try that without using conditioner.
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howtopaintinfo
Wow!! Ok that does make sense! The wood is maple and doesn’t seem very porous to begin with. So perhaps I shouldn’t have used that.
What about the tacky drag marks I’m getting around some of the edges? Does that mean it started to dry in those areas?
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!
I appreciate this more than you know!!
It most likely has, you need to work in a sequence when painting and also when staining.
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how many people were getting frustrated with him not staining the end piece of the wood LOL
+Kevin McCauley lol, it did get done.
+howtopaintinfo how do you stain the end without it going way darker than the rest of the wood?
Holly Brown Unfortunately end grain will always be darker and there is nothing you can do about it.
howtopaintinfo but when you see decorative items in shops that have been stained there is never darker edges. its always one colour all over?
+Holly Brown If they are using a veneer then it will look even all over as it will have strips of veneer on the edges to cover the end grain.
Can you use any rag or are some rags better than others?
TheStephenBaker Cotton rags (old bed sheets) are better as they don't leave lint behind. Often while wiping over the surface with a rag little bits of the clothe will get caught on the timber, cotton is less likely to do this.
great video. what color is the stain used.???
Thanks, it was a western red cedar stain.
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Hi, after using a can of spray to stain my timber (Stain and Varnish), I've noticed that there were drips which is why I am planning on using a tinned stain. If I was to buy Stain and Varnish (all in one), to get a smooth surface, would I have to stain it, sand it and then give it another stain? Because with the spray (couldn't fit the whole sentence)
the best part that I saw in this video was the old school stereo, guess its still playing cassette tapes :) thumbs up!!!
It's a good old radio and hasn't played tapes for years.
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This is fantastic, and you have an awesome way of teaching, thanks!
Thanks for your comment.
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I got a wattyl english mahogany timber stain I want to apply it to my timber which is radiata pinewood should I sand it or wipe it with water because people are telling me to wipe it with water and others are telling me to sand it what should I do ?
coolkid111111100 The surface should be clean before applying the stain, you could sand it first to get the timber nice clean and also sand out any marks in the timber. You could also use a wood cleaner and wash the timber but it should be dry before applying the stain.
Can I do this after applying primer
if it was a clear primer as there are some situation where that will work.
On my website you will find information on how to apply stain varnish, if you have used stain varnish then sanded the surface you may find area's where it has gone back to bare timber, there is a chance that if you use a stain that is the same colour you maybe able to apply just the stain then a few coats of clear. Stain varnishes are hard to use, I personally hardly ever use them.
@howtopaintinfo Hi,I bought a 2nd hand hardwood table,sanded it all down to remove the existing stain (pine) and wanted to do it light oak. I bought Dulux woodstain which is 2 in 1,it has the stain and satin lacquer all in one,i tested a sample on the table top (my kitchen table) and have only given it 1 coat so far,but it did NOT stain as good and as quickly as your ledge in the video.
Is this because i bought a 2 in 1 varnish/stain?
Is it always better to stain first then over coat with a protective clear lacquer or varnish later?
I just tried another quick coat (2nd coat) on what i already did and it has gone darker already but there are brush marks and where ive overlapped in places it looks light and darker,there seems to be no consistency with it,is it because the paint product is rubbish or is it my technique? , whats your best advice to restain a fully sanded down hard wood kitchen table to change from pine to light oak and get a finish thats equal everywhere,i.e., no dark or light patches?
perhaps your table needed a preconditioner ... so, strip again (sanding usually) ... w/raw wood, preconditioner then stain then varnish. Not a fan of 2-in-1 products. Stain likely cost you about $1 for the table top (extra from small can I would imagine ~ little goes long way).
David Mcbeth
it was the product water based rubbish,going to buy a product called rustins dye,its the best you can get and does the job
In this video I'm using a straight stain without varnish as it's easier to use and easier to get a uniform finish. Stain varnishes are harder to use as you don't wipe off excess as you do with stain and any over lap marks will stand out. Also as it is a stain and varnish all in one the more coats you apply the dark the colour will be.
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Well done. Question... do you burnish the end grain prior to staining so that it doesn't darken too much?
No but if you are worried about it looking a bit dark you could but then it might look lighter when finished.
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So what purpose would the 600 - 1200 grit serve?
Why cant you use fence paint on floorboards inside your house/ loft?
Or a exterior decking paint?
This is if you don't want a shine from varnish etc.
You can use what ever you like but it may not last as long as other products suited for floors. You could use an exterior decking oil and that would work. Varnishes also come in a Matt finish if you are worried about the shine of a Gloss.
howtopaintinfo Thanks I was wondering if it was down to fumes given off but I will paint much of this outside then take in when dry. The house is 300+ years old and I want a darker stain MID OAK to give the look of age to it. They didn't have varnish 300 years back but if I find I need it I will add it a few months later. I am just using pine for cost 8.5" wide compared to the original 12". The old pine has had worm in it so I also want to give both sides of the wood some form or protection. I think an exterior fence finish should have insect repellent of some form and also still be good to handle with limited health risks.
Is the exterior fence finish oil based or water based? Personally I would use an oil based product on timber floors.
howtopaintinfo
Just a water based, I am trying it out and if not good will add another covering to it.
Well I was going to say I can't remember but I had a quick look at some old video and managed to read the label, so it's a Wattyl stain and the colour is Teak.
Are you going to stain the end of the wood? And if so when? And can we watch?
that unstained end bugged the hell out of my ocd.
Yes I have done it and took a video but having trouble uploading the 30 minutes of footage.
I just bought wood stain from Lowes and applied as you did and when I went to wipe it off it was like tar, could barely remove and it barely stained the wood.
What am I doing wrong? I sanded the entire piece then cleaned it off then stained.
sounds like it had polyurethane already in it. I did my front door with it and the same thing happened to me. we had to put it on so fast because it dried really dark in some places and light in the others will never buy stain with poly in it again.
sorry didn't see how long ago this was posted lol
It was a while ago
I have a giant wooden fire escape to stain tomorrow. brand new pressure treated wood.. same process applies I hope? very helpful thank u man
I would suggest hold off for a while till the wood has dried. Chemically treated wood can have a greater moisture level than green wood. If you apply now when its wet, you might ruin your wood and waste your stain.
Bryan Gatewood i talked it over with my landlord and he decided to have me wait a while due to the moisture level. thank u Bryan, much appreciated man
How did the first escape go.
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i am lazy and dont wont to wipe it off, rather just let it dry on its own however it does, what will be my side effects? this is just going to be used for a wooden flat deck on a truck that is my bush truck. just thought I would stain and clear coat it for a half ass decent look.
+dynocompe Your deck will end up looking like mud.
+dynocompe If you brush it on evenly it should look good, just if you want a consistent look then wiping off is best.
THANKS...you are an excellent teacher.
Thanks!!
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Super helpful. Thank you!!!
Thanks.
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I tried staining a chest of drawers & the stain came right off, did 2 coats & the color didn’t change one bit. Sanded it down before hand & i put a wood conditioner
Wood conditioner i really don't understand. As soon as you apply anything to the surface of bare timber it seals it, so the wood conditioner is sealing the timber. Once the timber is sealed then the stain won't penetrate in to the timber, it will more so sit on top. I know someone else left a comment with the same issue, my suggestion is not to use wood conditioner.
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What color stain did you use?
I think it was teak.
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It would be best if you use gloves. I'm using oil based stain so I wash my hands with Mineral Turpentine or I will use a industrial hand cleaner. I don't recommend washing your hands with mineral turps as it can burn / hurt when washing soft skin.
howtopaintinfo I have mahagony and I have applied a coat of primer on it how can I get oak like pattern on it.
I learned to use gloves when staining it is a pain to get off & at the end of the board against wall I would have taped it off. I am actually doing a pony wall counter top like this I tore the old wood off completely & bought new wood so I am staining top & bottom then glaze coat it later then attach it to the pony wall.
Yes it would be best to use gloves but I personally don't like the feel of gloves so that's why I don't use them. As for the wall, it's a new house and the walls still need a few more coats of paint. Personally I think its just as quick to touch up the area as it is to tape, it would be different if the walls were finished then tape should be used. When working on new work staining should always be done ASAP even before any paint is applied. In this case the timber was put on after we had painted the walls but before final coats.
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hi what colour is that?
Teak..
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how i can make dark brown color for front door???
DEEPAK MATHUR You should be able to buy dark stains, if not just ask the paint shop to add more tint to it to make it a dark brown.
thank you...
I wish I would have watched this video before doing my project....mine looked ok but you did an awesome job
Thanks, at least you know for next time.
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How to apply on carving..? Its look dark at end grain.
End grain will always absorb more stain so it will look darker.
How to to avoid that one...?
There's not much you can do about it, the only thing that may help it to thin the stain down when doing the end grain. I can't say I have tried it as I have had no need to but it might work.
Honestly, I already did that. its to hard. is there any primer coating before we apply wood stain..? So, the stain doesn't go in side.
You could use a sanding sealer, that will seal all the wood, then apply a Stain Varnish. That should give you a more even look but Stain Varnishes are harder to apply, as in it is harder to get an even finish.
What is the color of this stain ???
I think it was Jarrah.
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Looks nice and smooth. Thanks.
Thanks..
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What kind of wood is that? Pine? Poplar? Oak?
Meranti.
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this video was sooooo helpful! thank you!!!
I'm glad you have found it helpful.
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Great work. Thank you sir!
My pleasure!
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How can I remove a heavy line of stain from a floor
I'm no expert what so ever but I think paint and stain stripper would work
Sanding could work or paint stripper.
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Thanks for the tips.
Happy to help!
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should i sand paper the bare wood first?
yes its very important to sand the wood before going into staining. start with 80 grit(coarse), then continue to sand with 120 or 150 grit, after with 220 grit and then with 320 grit. you can keep sanding with higher grits after like 400 or 600 till the surface feels smooth. you can stain without sanding but the surface wont take in the stain very uniform and you will see imperfections in the wood.
JOSE RAMOS i tried staining my wooden longboard, i sanded it down, made its super smooth, did the stain & cloth technique and all of it came off :D like ive never put any staining on :D
Have no idea if your being sarcastic, but sanding is a standard when staining any wooden material. My question to you is if your longboard's made out of solid wood or something like mdf or particleboard because those will not take a stain very well if not at all. Always make sure to let the stain dry for a couple minutes as well so as to let the material absorb the paint, then wipe off the excess.
JOSE RAMOS yeah eventually did that, applied a few coats to darken it too, looks amazing :D and immagine if a longboard was made out of MDF XD it would be a suicide.
rory bellamy If the wood is smooth then you don't need to sand, normally I run my hand over the wood and sand all the rough bits.
Why not wipe with rag instead easier?
You can wipe with rag but most people wouldn't put enough stain on when doing it that way, but yes you can do that way just make sure you use plenty of stain.
Have a happy new year..
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what color stain is that?
this guy knows his stuff
Yes I do.
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😊 thank you!
I'm not sure what I'm going wrong I bought weather grey stain today and it looks like actual paint...I followed the same steps as the video 🤷.
First just check to see if you are using an oil based or water based stain. Oil based stains are easy to use and generally wipe off easy. Water base stains dry quicker and can be a bit harder to work with, maybe you are going back over it too much and the stain is building up, that can happen easily with water based stains.
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I messed up and brushed on a kona color to a raw bookshelf. Didn't wipe with rag. Very dark. Too late though guess I'll just brush on some varnish and deal with it.
I did the same thing, and tried to put on the poly (varnish) but it started to clump....don't know how to fix it..
Some times it can still be wiped with a rag with turps on it and it will remove some or you will just have to sand it back.
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WOW groundbreaking stuff
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Great video.
Thanks.
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I love your videos, keep up the cool work! I make similar vlogs too :)
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looks beautiful
Thanks.
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Thank you i know how to apply wood stain.
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Shaking the bottle?! And doing back and forth with the brush? You must get bubbles and dark spots
YesMan85 If you were to get bubbles they would disappear when going over with a rag and shaking to bottle is to make sure tint on bottom of tin is mixed in.
very helpful , thank you !
Thanks..
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Very helpful. Thankyou so much!
Thanks, I needed that.
Good.
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Great video thank you
Thanks.
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what this video has taught me is that i fucked up the first time I tried to stain wood...Good Video!!!!
Thanks.
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Great job
Thanks..
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thanks
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Cheers mate, ausy ausy ausy!
I was gunna say that
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Hi, We enjoyed your video is very beautiful as well as more creative. We watched it until end of this video.
We SUBSCRIBED your channel.
Thank you for sharing your opinions.
우리는 귀하의 비디오가 매우 아름답고 더 창의적인 것을 즐겼습니다. 이 비디오가 끝날 때까지 보았습니다. 채널을 구독했습니다. 의견을 보내 주셔서 감사합니다.
Vi nød, at din video er meget smuk og mere kreativ. Vi så det indtil slutningen af denne video.
Vi har TILBUDET din kanal.
Tak, fordi du deler dine meninger.
We hebben genoten van je video is erg mooi en creatiever. We hebben het bekeken tot het einde van deze video. We hebben je kanaal INGESCHREVEN. Bedankt voor het delen van uw meningen.
Nous avons apprécié que votre vidéo soit très belle et plus créative. Nous l'avons regardé jusqu'à la fin de cette vidéo.
Nous avons ABONNÉ votre chaîne.
Merci d'avoir partagé vos opinions.
हमें मज़ा आया कि आपका वीडियो बहुत सुंदर है और साथ ही अधिक रचनात्मक है। हमने इस वीडियो के अंत तक इसे देखा।
हमने आपके चैनल को SUBSCRIBED किया।
अपने विचार सांझा करने के लिए धन्यवाद।
Mir hu gär datt Äre Video ganz schéin ass wéi och méi kreativ. Mir hunn et bis Enn vun dësem Video gekuckt. Mir SUBSCRIBED Äre Kanal. Merci fir Är Meenungen.
Disfrutamos que tu video es muy hermoso y creativo. Lo vimos hasta el final de este video. SUSCRIBIMOS tu canal. Gracias por compartir sus opiniones.
Vi tyckte att din video är väldigt vacker och mer kreativ. Vi tittade på det tills slutet av den här videon. Vi TILLBAKA din kanal. Tack för att du delar dina åsikter.
استمتعنا الفيديو الخاص بك جميلة جداً وكذلك أكثر إبداعًا. شاهدنا ذلك حتى نهاية هذا الفيديو.
لقد اشتركنا في قناتك.
شكرا لك على مشاركة آرائك.
我们喜欢您的视频非常漂亮并且更具创意。我们一直观看到本视频结束。
我们订阅了您的频道。
感谢您分享您的意见
Thanks
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Thanks!
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At the 2:25 mark you can hear a faint whisper from the ghost of the old homeowner telling him to stain the end of the mantle...
lol, no he was asking me if I wanted a beer for doing such a great job.
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Thanks, mate!
No worries.
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use wood conditioner first always
Well that choice is yours, I personally don't used them but maybe they would be of some benefit when using water based stains. I generally use only oil based stains.
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I don’t understand why u wiped it why not jut let it dry
You need to wipe it off to get a uniform finish, it will remove any thick spots.
Is the cameraman on a boat out at sea?
It's hard to get good help these days.
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Nice
Thanks.
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Who are you agreeing with, have you got an invisible friend?
Nice job
nice trick;)
Thanks
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does anyone else hear a weird voice whisper something around 2:25? Or am I losing my shit lmao.
Your losing your shit
Jake Moyer he's in a vacant haunted house I'm sure..
It was a new house so no ghosts in there yet.
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Great
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You forgot the masking tape for the white walls...
The walls had only been first coated, you should always do staining before final coats unless you are staining near finished walls then yes mask them.
Meranti
Dying is a rock and roll bɔand
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How about you stain and finish before installing ! So backasswards.
Benny Hannah Simple, if you are dealing with stained timber then there is a chance of it being scratched while being installed. Also I'm a painter not a carpenter, the carpenter installs the timber then I stain it.
I'm one of them @Kevin.....I'm looking like "hey dude, what about the end, duh!"
kileigh pailen What is uu77???? I don't understand what that means
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what accent is that ? Welsh.
Australian
I'm an Aussie.
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Oh ok, thanks :)
Jason Statham paints
Don't tell anyone.
You got a ghost in the house bro
Just a new home and a windy day.
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I stopped the moment I saw you shaking the vinyl like an idiot. The FIRST thing you don't want to do is shake the damn thing so as to introduce air bubbles! The hell you doing?
Lol, What, you think the bubbles will stay there.
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Horrible, The way you were wiping the wood will leave rag marks all over the finish when its sprayed. You cant just rub the rag over the top of everything, long even strokes so you dont stop the rag on any part of the wood.
The idea of wiping of the excess stain is so it comes out looking even There are no rag marks or wiping marks because the stain has been absorbed in to the timber and you are only remove the excess.
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