Never mind. I explained to them and they gave me the old price 1299$ thanks man! Can’t wait now. Used to big a big mt biker but diabetes has made it hard, though with electric bike I should be able to get back out there. Tyvm Mike
From what I've been told by many people, the manufacturer that makes these ebikes is SMLRO itself, Philodo purchases and rebrands them, which is why you can find the same paint jobs with different text and the custmer support from what I've been told is very knowledgeable of their own bikes unlike Philodo's
A few months ago, the Keteles 2x1000w model in my country was on sale for $999(promo sale), that price can't be beat. After the promotion, the standard price was $1399, and the quantities are currently sold out now.
Looks like a winner to me. No brainer for super powerful riding on all terrain. Thanks for the heads-up notice, beats buying another car or truck pocketing the savings, and living like a king.
I'm planning to order this bike in the winter but that "new" display is a POS, no voltage, no current, nothing. I'll see if they can give me the old M5 display or if the display is 5 pin barrel plug, KT controller compatible. I don't care if a display has pretty colours, if it doesn't show your battery voltage at the minimum it's useless. Good video.
I would recommend finding a simimlar (there are at least 3 companies with the identical bike) and not doing business with these folks. I had a basic question concerning how to take the bike and modify it so I could turn the front motor off for range. They refused to provide guidance, claiming this was their "IP". They want your money, and I wouldn't trust them to support the product beyond the purchase. There is a 10,000 mile review of the Philodo and my suspicion is, "you will find out the $200 you save is going to cost you in the end". I also think that the newest version of the WIRED has superior everything, with true US ownership out of Chicago. The bike is 60 volt and the single motor peaks at 2400 watts (actually a 60 volt, likely charges to 66, which means with their 40 amp controller, on a full charge it is peaking at 2600 watts. 40 MPH top end.If you are just joyriding on a bike, I'm sure this bike is o.k, however if you plan on putting miles on it, I would not trust the company to support the product beyond your initial purchase. The money you save today, could end up being a total pain in the ass tomorrow. IMO
All valid points. Both the wired bikes and these are still newish and time well tell on the reliability of parts. Wired needs to hire more staff as customer questions and support is not getting through to anyone. The more I do this hobby the more I think diy is the way to go because parts are always available and you know how everything works.
I like the idea of the throttle for the front wheel. That way if you are trying to claw your way uphill you can hit it for a quick torque and traction boost! I loathe PAS bikes but that's because most of them work on cadence and when you're going offroad the pace is not steady.
I have this bike but I'll preface this by saying I am 260 lb. I might get 31 mph out of it. Pedal assist runs the rear tire and throttle runs both tires. It is a very good hill climber but I think the pedal assist is a little weak. I get about 20 mi with the battery using the throttle all the time. But if I run the bike with pedal assist at 18-19 mph I'll get 30 mi from the battery with 1900 ft. Elevation gain. When I first received it the lower controller box was broken off of it and they replaced it. About 50 mi in one of the planetary gears cracked it was making a racket and they replaced the motor. I can't say much about that because I have another e-bike with the name senada and that cracked a planetary gear within 50 mi also. Mine also came I think with a 750 lb shock which is a little under sprung because the tire kept on hitting the second controller box. They also replaced that with a 1200 lb shock. Motors have a julet z910 connectors which aren't for much more than 1000watts. Both controllers are 25amps
They actually sent you a new motor all the way from China? I assume you can only buy the entire Ebike through the internet, so even if they did send you another motor for free which is great, what if you don't know how to install one?
@@flolou8496 Give it to someone that is mechanically inclined or try yourself. It was a little more complicated than removing your rear wheel. You only need to change the motor.
Right, thank you I stupidly forgot the rear wheel comes with the motor, so I figured you just change the entire rear wheel, or in this case, not even that, just the motor, so that was easier for you with this model?
@@flolou8496 yes, it out of warranty you can change the gears (47.5mm). A common bafang 1000 watt Size. You just need gear pullers from Harbor freight.
*"Suspension"* isn't spelled with a 't' as t appears in the thumbnail. How bright is that headlamp? Brake lights? Turn signals? What's the shape of the output? What is the diameter and thickness of the brake rotors? Hydraulic or mechanical? Braking distance? Acceleration? Weight? Charge time? Torque sensor? There's another channel it there that recently acquired a motorcycle dynamometer to gauge the exact power output. Hope you can do that too
Some thoughts after 500 miles... Fenders are pretty hideous in how they mount. I run full rain gear and hemet in the rain, so I'm probably going to yank them. Battery sag is very noticeable after running wfo throttle after a few miles. If I'm in a real hurry, i set it to Pas 5 where it matters, and back it off to Pas 4 where it doesn't. Modt if the time, I just run it at Pas 4. At that level, throttle maxes out at 26mph, even on moderate hills, and there is no noticeable battery sag, though when I get to my first train station at 6 miles, the display shows battery at 3 bars. Shut down, ride to my transfer point, battery again shows 5 bars. Pas 5 for a quick mile ride to my next train station, display shiws battery at 4 bars. Shut down, train to my final stop, power up, display shows 5 bars, 1.5 mile Pas 5 sprint, still runs 27-28 mph, at destination display shows 1 or 2 bars battery. Doing the toggle between Pas 4 & 5 doesn't make much speed difference over the course of the commute, but at the right times it gets me to a train station a minute earlier, which means I wait 30 seconds for the train instead of 15 minutes. Only issues with the bike so far was a weirdness that I attribute to the power cables to the motors not being connected as tightly as they should be. Snugged em up by hand - no issue since. Fender mounts are...less than optimum...I'm pulling them off in a moment. The usual nuts n bolts work loose over time as expected. Retightening and locktite-ing. I should true up the wheels too. They are enough off that i think i would feel a smoother ride and probably another mph top speed. Would like to change the gearing so I can peddle to get the speed up when running wfo. Or at least have the option. Seat is not as comfy as I would like. I keep it at minimum height so my fat head isn't causing too much drag. Would like to put a rack on the read that slides back so I can load it, slide it back, get on the bike, and slide it forward. I'm not as flexible as I once was - getting my leg over can be a challenge if I have my grocery box on it, or if I cinched my backpack down on it. Thats a defect in me - not the bike.
Might be getting this bike cause of the bigger battery, can you make it last super long by unplugging one of the motors? And running only one when doing throttle only ? A 1000w e bike is still decent !!
I just ordered one for $1299. Wish I was able to order before xmas - lots of vendors had them with short shipping times. Now, I have to wait about a week.
The 3 day freeze somehow caused a 10 day FedEx delay. But it arrived today and is waiting for me at home. My wife extracted a promise from me not to mod it for a little while.
@maximumchargeEV well, I want to Crack the battery case and see what's in it for starters. I'm guessing 21700 4.8a in a 5p configuration. I'd like a touch more range. Speed is fine - but I tend to run it WFO. I think at max throttle I'm exceeding the continuous output capability of the battery and it starts to sag. I'm in the middle of my morning commute, and instead of being first/last mile (about 5-6 miles) it's bearing most of the load this morning (about 25-20) due to construction. Sprint to the train, ride a few miles, get off and ride the bike around the outage and jump on another train segment, head to the next disruption. It's over all a 26 mile commute when transit is operating properly. This morning it's more like 30 because of the inefficient routing. After the initial out-of-box speed test, I backed it off to level 4. I do like that PAS level also limits the throttle, so I don't hit the battery as hard. The electrical connectors are bout what I'd expect on a low cost bike. Front motor cable disconnected at some point.
Hi mate, can you set it up so PAS is on 0 or 1 and twist throttle on 5 - max, therefore allow for slow pedaling in the city and using throttle to accelerate when needed...cheers
He’s thinking it’s tough to make a profit at that price. But really these bikes have been overpriced considering they’re built on low priced Chinese components.
There has been some weirdness in pricing and other factors. For a long time, scooters were much cheaper than bikes. That has now reversed. What is still current is that when you shop for hub motors, most motors for sale are Direct Drive motors, most complete ebikes otoh, use geared motors.
You're doing a really good job much appreciated! I need your help! I'm working on a friend's trike front-wheel-drive 24in 500w bafang! The hall sensor is bad .I would just like to swap out the motor do you know where I can get one?
I honestly don't know but I would start by getting a specific model number and then try to find the same one on aliexpress. Or you could just replace it with a more powerful system! :)
Suspicious how that big battery is dangling almost on the small frame. It looks out of place. Also a 1,000 watt motor should be doing 1,400 plus peak watts and be using a 28-30 amp controller..each. It has dual suspension going for it. That's one good thing. Imagine a dual 1,000 watt 1,800 watt peak, Ariel Rider Kepler, with dual 33 amp controllers and a 52 V 30 ah battery. That would be a game changer.
How do they hit that price point? I dunno - got any details on the motors? Based on size they'd be geared - are they using all plastic gears? That would be one way to save money. Are they actually 1000w motors, or 1000w peak? I'd like to find out more about the controller too - are they using two controllers, 1 dual channel, on 1 single channel and doing something flaky with it?
Almost all geared hub motors use nylon gears. Which is a good thing because they are quiet, and they will fail first before something more expensive does in the motor itself. For motors under 1k like these nylon gears are perfectly fine. Allegedly these motors peak at 1kw.
@@maximumchargeEV the gears are extraneous, unless you plan on riding the bike without the motors in which case you are cycling on a boat anchor. If you have 2000 watts you don't need 21 gears. All it is doing is adding weight and complexity with no upside. IMO
I like that smlro 2000w ebike could you tell me how far on throttle only mode. By the way I'm from Boston Massachusetts and I have three Ebikes a Aostirmotor sob7, Add motor motan r7 and a GogoBest 700 but I need more power. Plus I customized them also. 6:00
That is the exact same bike as my Elecrides Zeegr S1. My batter is 52/23ah, but almost the same exact accessories. The phone holder isn't great, but it works if you're nopt going to be riding in the rough....like I do. Mine a switch for the front motor It probably costs these companies a few dollars to manufacture them so they make lots of profit. One thing, people should REALLY wear a helmet with these bikes because they do go fast and acceleration is very good. I used ride Motocross bikes , these bikes are quick.
Have you actually measured the Voltage ? I see inconsistent description everywhere, sometimes 48V, sometimes 52 V, and Zeegr S1 = Keteles 800 Pro = SMLRO V3 Plus = Ebycco Eb7 Pro = something else. Exactly the same, sometimes they say 48V, sometimes 52V
If you look at the all black bike it actually has a 203mm front rotor. I changed it out soon after I got it for better stopping power. I only filmed the rear up close as to not confuse people. I can definitely feel a difference. I also charged out the rear freewheel and derailleur to give me a lower granny gear and higher high gear.
@maximumchargeEV because it's got a huge delay when twisting the throttle and don't go with the full power from standstill. It's so frustrating when riding on the road with cars
Let me Enlighten all of you people it doesn't cost China nothing to make these bikes so quit acting like it cost them thousands of dollars to make one of these bikes it does not that's why they can afford to sell these and yes they do make a profit they make a lot of profit they're lucky to have a couple hundred bucks in this crap it doesn't cost them nothing to make this stuff
$200 Off Here: smlrobicycle.com/products/smlro-v3-plus-dual-motors-electric-bike-2000w-48v-22-4ah?ref=gyxby5t8
Any new codes for this bike
Never mind. I explained to them and they gave me the old price 1299$ thanks man! Can’t wait now. Used to big a big mt biker but diabetes has made it hard, though with electric bike I should be able to get back out there. Tyvm Mike
From what I've been told by many people, the manufacturer that makes these ebikes is SMLRO itself, Philodo purchases and rebrands them, which is why you can find the same paint jobs with different text and the custmer support from what I've been told is very knowledgeable of their own bikes unlike Philodo's
you might be right!
A few months ago, the Keteles 2x1000w model in my country was on sale for $999(promo sale), that price can't be beat. After the promotion, the standard price was $1399, and the quantities are currently sold out now.
Wow!!
Keteles 800 Pro 2 x 1000W is exactly the same as SLMRO V3 Plus, they both come from the same factory
Looks like a winner to me. No brainer for super powerful riding on all terrain. Thanks for the heads-up notice, beats buying another car or truck pocketing the savings, and living like a king.
Right on!
Ya me too, though kind of bummed the 200$ code he talked about is no longer valid
I would call Chao Yang generic, they're about $80 each. There one of the best for mountain biking.
Good to know! I see them everywhere on these fat tire bikes
@@maximumchargeEV I like them, I've never had a flat with one either, but I don't ever go above 14 PSI.
I'm planning to order this bike in the winter but that "new" display is a POS, no voltage, no current, nothing. I'll see if they can give me the old M5 display or if the display is 5 pin barrel plug, KT controller compatible. I don't care if a display has pretty colours, if it doesn't show your battery voltage at the minimum it's useless. Good video.
Oh wow! Those are important things to consider for sure. Every bike should show voltage and wattage being used imo.
The V3 Plus has the new display. If you order the v3 it comes with the old display and is a bit cheaper.
I would recommend finding a simimlar (there are at least 3 companies with the identical bike) and not doing business with these folks. I had a basic question concerning how to take the bike and modify it so I could turn the front motor off for range. They refused to provide guidance, claiming this was their "IP". They want your money, and I wouldn't trust them to support the product beyond the purchase.
There is a 10,000 mile review of the Philodo and my suspicion is, "you will find out the $200 you save is going to cost you in the end". I also think that the newest version of the WIRED has superior everything, with true US ownership out of Chicago. The bike is 60 volt and the single motor peaks at 2400 watts (actually a 60 volt, likely charges to 66, which means with their 40 amp controller, on a full charge it is peaking at 2600 watts. 40 MPH top end.If you are just joyriding on a bike, I'm sure this bike is o.k, however if you plan on putting miles on it, I would not trust the company to support the product beyond your initial purchase. The money you save today, could end up being a total pain in the ass tomorrow. IMO
All valid points. Both the wired bikes and these are still newish and time well tell on the reliability of parts. Wired needs to hire more staff as customer questions and support is not getting through to anyone. The more I do this hobby the more I think diy is the way to go because parts are always available and you know how everything works.
I like the idea of the throttle for the front wheel. That way if you are trying to claw your way uphill you can hit it for a quick torque and traction boost! I loathe PAS bikes but that's because most of them work on cadence and when you're going offroad the pace is not steady.
My Philodo H8 has 2 batteries and I got a seat post suspension, it's a killer now!
Sounds like an awesome setup!!
I just ordered the same bike. How did you get the 2 battery set up? Do you just carry around a spare or is there a way to mount a second battery?
I have this bike but I'll preface this by saying I am 260 lb. I might get 31 mph out of it. Pedal assist runs the rear tire and throttle runs both tires. It is a very good hill climber but I think the pedal assist is a little weak. I get about 20 mi with the battery using the throttle all the time. But if I run the bike with pedal assist at 18-19 mph I'll get 30 mi from the battery with 1900 ft. Elevation gain. When I first received it the lower controller box was broken off of it and they replaced it. About 50 mi in one of the planetary gears cracked it was making a racket and they replaced the motor. I can't say much about that because I have another e-bike with the name senada and that cracked a planetary gear within 50 mi also. Mine also came I think with a 750 lb shock which is a little under sprung because the tire kept on hitting the second controller box. They also replaced that with a 1200 lb shock. Motors have a julet z910 connectors which aren't for much more than 1000watts. Both controllers are 25amps
They actually sent you a new motor all the way from China? I assume you can only buy the entire Ebike through the internet, so even if they did send you another motor for free
which is great, what if you don't know how to install one?
@@flolou8496 Give it to someone that is mechanically inclined or try yourself. It was a little more complicated than removing your rear wheel. You only need to change the motor.
Right, thank you I stupidly forgot the rear wheel comes with the motor, so I figured you just change the entire rear wheel, or in this case, not even that, just the motor, so that was easier for you with this model?
That's very good to know! It is nice to know that you can get parts for this bike and they help you fix things after purchase.
@@flolou8496 yes, it out of warranty you can change the gears (47.5mm). A common bafang 1000 watt Size. You just need gear pullers from Harbor freight.
This is a steal at the price.
seriously!
1,600$ now. Codes dead. 300$ is not as good of a deal. Gonna keep looking. Bummer
*"Suspension"* isn't spelled with a 't' as t appears in the thumbnail.
How bright is that headlamp? Brake lights? Turn signals? What's the shape of the output?
What is the diameter and thickness of the brake rotors? Hydraulic or mechanical? Braking distance?
Acceleration? Weight? Charge time?
Torque sensor?
There's another channel it there that recently acquired a motorcycle dynamometer to gauge the exact power output. Hope you can do that too
Damn! I keep messing that up! I'll have to fix it asap
Some thoughts after 500 miles...
Fenders are pretty hideous in how they mount.
I run full rain gear and hemet in the rain, so I'm probably going to yank them.
Battery sag is very noticeable after running wfo throttle after a few miles.
If I'm in a real hurry, i set it to Pas 5 where it matters, and back it off to Pas 4 where it doesn't.
Modt if the time, I just run it at Pas 4. At that level, throttle maxes out at 26mph, even on moderate hills, and there is no noticeable battery sag, though when I get to my first train station at 6 miles, the display shows battery at 3 bars. Shut down, ride to my transfer point, battery again shows 5 bars. Pas 5 for a quick mile ride to my next train station, display shiws battery at 4 bars. Shut down, train to my final stop, power up, display shows 5 bars, 1.5 mile Pas 5 sprint, still runs 27-28 mph, at destination display shows 1 or 2 bars battery.
Doing the toggle between Pas 4 & 5 doesn't make much speed difference over the course of the commute, but at the right times it gets me to a train station a minute earlier, which means I wait 30 seconds for the train instead of 15 minutes.
Only issues with the bike so far was a weirdness that I attribute to the power cables to the motors not being connected as tightly as they should be.
Snugged em up by hand - no issue since.
Fender mounts are...less than optimum...I'm pulling them off in a moment.
The usual nuts n bolts work loose over time as expected. Retightening and locktite-ing.
I should true up the wheels too. They are enough off that i think i would feel a smoother ride and probably another mph top speed.
Would like to change the gearing so I can peddle to get the speed up when running wfo.
Or at least have the option.
Seat is not as comfy as I would like. I keep it at minimum height so my fat head isn't causing too much drag.
Would like to put a rack on the read that slides back so I can load it, slide it back, get on the bike, and slide it forward.
I'm not as flexible as I once was - getting my leg over can be a challenge if I have my grocery box on it, or if I cinched my backpack down on it.
Thats a defect in me - not the bike.
Great helpful comment, thanks!
Might be getting this bike cause of the bigger battery, can you make it last super long by unplugging one of the motors? And running only one when doing throttle only ? A 1000w e bike is still decent !!
You can run this bike in single motor only if you like.
I just ordered one for $1299.
Wish I was able to order before xmas - lots of vendors had them with short shipping times.
Now, I have to wait about a week.
That's great! Enjoy
The 3 day freeze somehow caused a 10 day FedEx delay.
But it arrived today and is waiting for me at home.
My wife extracted a promise from me not to mod it for a little while.
Anyone know what cells are in these?
I'd like to find out what the max charge rate is based on the configuration and specs.
what mods will you do to it? @@Zomby_Woof
@maximumchargeEV well, I want to Crack the battery case and see what's in it for starters.
I'm guessing 21700 4.8a in a 5p configuration. I'd like a touch more range. Speed is fine - but I tend to run it WFO. I think at max throttle I'm exceeding the continuous output capability of the battery and it starts to sag.
I'm in the middle of my morning commute, and instead of being first/last mile (about 5-6 miles) it's bearing most of the load this morning (about 25-20) due to construction.
Sprint to the train, ride a few miles, get off and ride the bike around the outage and jump on another train segment, head to the next disruption.
It's over all a 26 mile commute when transit is operating properly. This morning it's more like 30 because of the inefficient routing.
After the initial out-of-box speed test, I backed it off to level 4.
I do like that PAS level also limits the throttle, so I don't hit the battery as hard.
The electrical connectors are bout what I'd expect on a low cost bike. Front motor cable disconnected at some point.
Hi mate, can you set it up so PAS is on 0 or 1 and twist throttle on 5 - max, therefore allow for slow pedaling in the city and using throttle to accelerate when needed...cheers
unsure, sorry.
Just bought one rebranded from Boombike for $1233 includes tax and shipping
wow that's a good price!
He’s thinking it’s tough to make a profit at that price. But really these bikes have been overpriced considering they’re built on low priced Chinese components.
There has been some weirdness in pricing and other factors.
For a long time, scooters were much cheaper than bikes.
That has now reversed.
What is still current is that when you shop for hub motors, most motors for sale are Direct Drive motors, most complete ebikes otoh, use geared motors.
.... that'll explode in your house while you're charging it and set everything on fire within 6 feet.
You're doing a really good job much appreciated! I need your help! I'm working on a friend's trike front-wheel-drive 24in 500w bafang! The hall sensor is bad .I would just like to swap out the motor do you know where I can get one?
I honestly don't know but I would start by getting a specific model number and then try to find the same one on aliexpress. Or you could just replace it with a more powerful system! :)
Thank you for the kind words my friend!
Suspicious how that big battery is dangling almost on the small frame. It looks out of place. Also a 1,000 watt motor should be doing 1,400 plus peak watts and be using a 28-30 amp controller..each. It has dual suspension going for it. That's one good thing. Imagine a dual 1,000 watt 1,800 watt peak, Ariel Rider Kepler, with dual 33 amp controllers and a 52 V 30 ah battery. That would be a game changer.
I'm testing a dual motor bike now (review coming soon) and wow does it eat battery! And it has 40ah of it!
How do they hit that price point?
I dunno - got any details on the motors?
Based on size they'd be geared - are they using all plastic gears?
That would be one way to save money.
Are they actually 1000w motors, or 1000w peak?
I'd like to find out more about the controller too - are they using two controllers, 1 dual channel, on 1 single channel and doing something flaky with it?
Almost all geared hub motors use nylon gears. Which is a good thing because they are quiet, and they will fail first before something more expensive does in the motor itself. For motors under 1k like these nylon gears are perfectly fine. Allegedly these motors peak at 1kw.
Have you had any issues with your usb charging port.
Mine has never worked. I don't think it has to be enabled.
I almost never use those ports. I hear horror stories!
Bought one before the tariffs went up, the Benxi
nice!
Great review I would opt for the PHILODO instead for the 21 speed
Cheers!
@@maximumchargeEV the gears are extraneous, unless you plan on riding the bike without the motors in which case you are cycling on a boat anchor. If you have 2000 watts you don't need 21 gears. All it is doing is adding weight and complexity with no upside. IMO
Because they buy in bulk from ali and only give 500 a piece and make quick 400 profit off each
Makes sense
I want 9 of them
That's it?
u got a bunch of e-bikes??? shoot can i steal one 👀
stealing? Isn't that against the law?
I like that smlro 2000w ebike could you tell me how far on throttle only mode.
By the way I'm from Boston Massachusetts and I have three Ebikes a Aostirmotor sob7, Add motor motan r7 and a GogoBest 700 but I need more power. Plus I customized them also. 6:00
Depends on hills
It has a full electrical mode , or should be with PA. ??
It has both
I've been struggling between this and the Wicked
Tough choice!
Wired is better Worth the money although I'm looking at this bike I got hills where I live .
That is the exact same bike as my Elecrides Zeegr S1. My batter is 52/23ah, but almost the same exact accessories. The phone holder isn't great, but it works if you're nopt going to be riding in the rough....like I do. Mine a switch for the front motor
It probably costs these companies a few dollars to manufacture them so they make lots of profit.
One thing, people should REALLY wear a helmet with these bikes because they do go fast and acceleration is very good. I used ride Motocross bikes , these bikes are quick.
Have you actually measured the Voltage ? I see inconsistent description everywhere, sometimes 48V, sometimes 52 V, and Zeegr S1 = Keteles 800 Pro = SMLRO V3 Plus = Ebycco Eb7 Pro = something else. Exactly the same, sometimes they say 48V, sometimes 52V
@@familydenhaag9860 I haven't checked any voltage yet, but it does have a lot of power.
How do you start the bike, and display?
There's a Facebook group dedicated to this bike you could get a ton of info there
I think this bike should have 180 mm disc, not 160 mm.
There's some truth to that but it won't make that much of a difference unless you get quad piston rotors
If you look at the all black bike it actually has a 203mm front rotor. I changed it out soon after I got it for better stopping power. I only filmed the rear up close as to not confuse people. I can definitely feel a difference. I also charged out the rear freewheel and derailleur to give me a lower granny gear and higher high gear.
can you unlock the speed?
Yeah it tops out at 34-35mph
This bike is similar to philodo H8 bikes
I believe they are made in the same factory
except the philodo has dual 27 amp controllers whjere this onl has 21 amp ones... 1500 watt peak vs 1000 watts per motor for this
What about if we need another battery? Ae they available?
This bike is very generic, and yes, changing battery is super easy an affordable
attention.. genuine pack is a bit smaller as the 52v 25 Ah from unity pack power upp pack does not fit
I have one and don't recommend it
whys that?
@maximumchargeEV because it's got a huge delay when twisting the throttle and don't go with the full power from standstill. It's so frustrating when riding on the road with cars
Is this guy reviewing a bike he doesn't even have?
not reviewing, commenting.
Let me Enlighten all of you people it doesn't cost China nothing to make these bikes so quit acting like it cost them thousands of dollars to make one of these bikes it does not that's why they can afford to sell these and yes they do make a profit they make a lot of profit they're lucky to have a couple hundred bucks in this crap it doesn't cost them nothing to make this stuff
Who hurt u