I'm from the states,New York. Been following you since the beginning. Love your videos. Your skills have developed so much.i learned so much from you.keep up the good work
I have a similar set up but with a smaller hub using astandard gravel bike fork - I see you're using a downhill fork which may be the reason its spinning. Your weight is distributed in the back because of the high position your fork forces you in. My Gravel bike fork forces me to be on top of the handlebars, putting weight down the front so mine doesn't spin as much.
I’m currently building a 2000w dual motor mtn bike, pretty much the exact same thing as you built in this video. This was extremely helpful and answered every question I had, thanks
This video has done me up... I've been eyeing up my 1st build, and I came across your channel a couple of days back. Excellent stuff, and you're only up the road from me testing your bits, which only reinforces why I should listen and learn, because i use the same places. So I've seen this, and now my 1st build has turned into a 3000W dual motor... Hopefully, it'll do 15mph... 😉
When you do this set the front wheel on the controller to soft start if you can or put it 2 levels lower than the rear wheel, it will improve stability by keeping a 60/40 or so ratio back to front torque when you speed up from a stand still in soft ground. A lower max starting power will prevent the front from trying to outrace the bike since the front is much lighter than the back. Also it's not the controller that limits the max speed when going fast like that down hill, that's actually the screen firmware cutting acceleration when it detects the max speed, you can mess with the wheel size and get a higher speed, just put the wheel size smaller like 20" or something, be sure to use GPS when measuring the speed since the speed on the screen will be off.
About 5 years ago I bought a Cyclamatic PowerPlus 250watt rear hub motor e-bike - Even back then I was impressed (and all my mates) with how much fun that bike was... I miss having an ebike and Im seriously thinking about building one just like the one in this vid... Im going to look into it all a lot more before I start doing anything, but wow I was seriously impressed with the dual hub driven motor set-up, looks like a tonne of fun does this bike. Cheers! From West Yorks, UK
@@yobrofish702 if you don't take reasonable care on the road you are risking lives, maybe looking cool is worth that tho, if you're enough of a narcissist
Good project, I would personally reduce throttle/pedal assist signal to front motor by adding resistor so front end is not as aggressive, and gain more traction.
@@shimes424Yes, but that's not necessary You can use twi single motor controllers that support master/slave via canbus. Vesc, sabvoton, fardriver. You really want one of these for the direct drive motors used here. DD motors can handle several times the power level of a geared motor. Unfortunately, most ebikes sold are geared. The motors here could be pumped up to 5kw each, and with a bit of ferrofluid to improve heat dissipation won't even get warm. And you almost have to increase the power level quite a bit with a DD motors because watt for watt, they produce less torque than do geared motors.
If it’s possible I’d limit the torque to the front hub because all that wheel spin is wasted power like a 600whp civic spinning tires on rev limit. Something like a 40/60 bias should be good or even 50/50 for pretty solid consistent launches. I don’t know how complex the controller can be programmed but if it can be adaptable you could set a range of low torque at launch with a gradual increase as the powerband levels out. I definitely wanna convert my rwd to awd but this is an important issue to overcome. You really should get some gear. Over 30mph you’ll still shred skin and break bones when you fall. Even just a lightweight breathable aramid armor jacket and some joint and hand protection is enough for the hotter weather.
I built a dual motor using a trek Marlyn 6. BBSHD mid drive and a 1000watt Andy Kirbe front hub. Each with their own 52 volt 20 amp batteries. Speed and range.
Could you possible elaborate in a build video or share the combining of two controller signals to one throttle please. Great project, and so close to my plan of doing same to a Fat Tire Ebike (already has triple clamp style front forks). Thanx in advance for help and insights you may share.
Fun 2WD bike. I build a lot of them and use independent throttles so keeping the front tire from scratching is as easy as not using the front throttle till I'm cruising fast enough to maintain traction
Really good video and an interesting bike! I suppose riding it with the front set 2 levels below the rear would help in maintaining a nice ride but while minimising or possibly eliminating the wheel spin. It’s a shame there isn’t a display / controller system that can do a split screen to incorporate two motors, that would be well tidy. So.. what’s next.. maybe stick a 1500w mid-drive on it for the hat-trick! 5500w triple drive… 🚲😂🤣
Wicked bike. Looks great fun. Yes of course it will beat a 1000w or 1500w mid drive up a hill as it's 2x 2000w so a 4000w mid drive would be a interesting comparison. Where's the world's fastest ebike gone or did I somehow miss its conclusion? 😁
@@HeathenRides Yes Aluminium spokes are common in cheap Chinese bikes - the weight stress of a Hub Motor in the wheel in my experience lends them to snapping under torsion. You can get them all replaced with Stainless Steel easily enough.
If you add a potentiometer between the output wire of the throttle (the white you said) on the middle pin and ground on the right pin then you should be able to set the amount of torque sent to the front tyre
Duals are just PRACTICAL over using just 1motor on a bike. I use a gear motor as the base motor and use 2nd motor of a gearless as turbo booster. Ride it like a clutch of certain terrain and slopes, use the 2nd motor to put less torque for the gear of just a nad of a throttle nudge, from my 5th gear setting onto a road when needing speeds over 25mph with turbo motor and set gear throttle with turbo throttle to regenerate the gear motor's battery. Best part it has save my ass from being hit by car of a clean quick acceleration of darting out the way like Flash from near on just a foot away from being hit by car ( I dont speed over 36mph for safety and respect for the cars and pedestrians, bike is just 2500 watts of exceeding 42mph PLUS) Use the extra power for cargo overall. Oh, I love this e bike here on this video! DIY Build is Tonka Tuff or a Monster Bike!!! Ride SAFE to save others later.
Built a 48v1500w front wheel with a 52v 2000w rear wheel on a felt frame. Earlier this year the front fork gave up. The mounts snaped and just last week the rear mounts gave way and the mounts let the rear wheel completely spin till the wires got messed up.😢 but i plan on doing it again cuz that lasted a good couple years😊
I have a 1500 Bafang Ultra mid drive. Yes it goes up steep hill great but my dual motors 1k watts bike faster going up same hill without feeling like going to fall apart. It does so without hesitation. The Bafang great but you can’t shift without letting off on power as you tear up your chain and gears. I watch that video where that guy states reasons dual hub motors are pointless and he couldn’t be more wrong. You get torque when you need it if you switch off front motor and you get more torque when needed when both motors are on going up steeper hills. So on my commuter bike where have dual motor dual batteries I can get power when needed to put less stress on rear motor and if not needed get more range. Plus with dual motor you can get up to speed very quickly you also gain about a mile or two top speed I notice. Yes dual motors is not for top speed as both motors are spinning at same RPM, it for torque which to me is more important.
if you put a thumb throttle for the front it will be much more controlled I built my 3000w two wheel drive 2 years ago it's awesome for hills great video's keep up the good work richie scotland
The motors have a KV rating and 45 mph is about the max my motor does aswell so its obvious you have reached the max speed from a 52v battery, higher speeds are possible with higher voltage batteries like 72v etc
Yeah hub motors probably have more range but needs a lot of watts/volts to have enough torque to start in a 30 degree upwards hill..here in Norway there's signs with 30 and a triangle where it's more than 30 degrees some people (tourists) doesn't get their car's or truck's up in the summer and doesn't even dare to try in the winter which is good because many wooden houses along these narrow mountain roads would be smashed if they did try..but people here are usually nice and drive it up for you
I have got 750w mid-drive and a 1000w mid-drive with gear sensors, so it cuts the power when changing gears, and if you don't beat em up too much, they are good motors and I own a Zooz 750 urban ultralight ELECTRIC BMX and the hub motor on that has so much torque and no gears but I love it just as much as the mid-drive bikes so I know what you mean plus I've watched your earlier videos of the mid-drives you and Andy have made and they were funny you know what I'm talking about 😅😂
Great video. Love how you explain dual motor is way better than a mid drive, from your experience. I had a Dualtron scooter that was mid drive. 3250w battery and 72v. A beast. But couldn’t go on the beach as wheels are small (13”) Where I am I can only get a fat bike with 500w motors. And 36v batteries. But I think at least running a big 20ah battery could still be good in dual motor mode. Not as good obviously as 2000w on each but at least double will be way more powerful as you just demonstrated
with a new controller and battery can you upgrade any motor basically i have a 1500w hub and would just like to squeeze abit more outta it thinking a 52v battery and and controller with flux weakening maybe? currently on a 48v 13ah system im sure there must be something i can do
Youve got the right idea! Higher volt battery and controller with as much amps as necessary to push the wattage you are looking for. You cpjld probably do 2500w on that motor. People often install temperature probes to see how warm everything gets. As long as heat is under control, you can keep going adding amps. Yoi could probably go right to 72v with that motor but that you cannot quote me.on and better do some research.
Nice work bruv! Thanks for these builds, gives some of us you are into modding these bikes, something to base of or compare to... In short, thanks for being the Guinea pig😂😂😂👍🏾 U will be repayed in ebike heaven with 72 Virg..... Volts! 😅
I'm not sure why kit sellers can't sell dual wheel kits that use one display and are set up for popular bike brands that can be plug and play.. Bikes that can have a rear rack for a bigger second battery to be put out back. Run a bag mounted frame battery and a bag with the rear battery for a dual 15 or 20 ah set up.
I got the large frame battery, and a rear rack...it looks like I could add at least 2 more batteries on the panier rack, maybe even 4. That would give me around 2500Wh, give or take. That is the dream...enough battery to do 100km trips on a single charge. I have also been looking into ev charging stations...adapters and high amp chargers...as a way to recharge quickly on the go.
Why do you not do a hill climb for each bike (the same hill each time for consistency)? People need to know how torquey and grippy bikes are for going up off-tarmac hills. I'd not buy a bike just based on it's flat tarmac speed, and neighter would many others.
hello mate great vid ,love the channel..when i was riding regular mountain bikes i used to love titanium..not cos of the weight savings but the plush ,dampened feel that it gives you ...ever thought of doing this to a ti framed bike?
I bet the range isnt reduced as much as one would think...probably same range reduction youd get if you put the second motor in a backpack unused and just carried it.
The back and fourth shaking looks like crabbing of the wheels they are not working together. Like a 4x4 would in turns. But this is linear. Can you let us know?
looks amazing but no match for my 84v GT . BLUE TOOTH battery[wth NEEEEEY] and BT YANOKING speed controller 72V.. 3000 WATT REAR DRIVE. the GT is also a 29 inch rimmed downhill bike. not for the vertically challenged
Would adding mid motor be easier than adding front? Have engwe x26 but not looking for complicated install. Looking for better take off... I know added maintenance on mid drive but looking for easiest construction. Maybe just replace back motor for better one? Would love to avoid replacing batteries but is possible? Has 48v 29mah stock. Thanks...
Mid drives come with a shift sensor, there is no sheering if teeth, in fact it's quite smooth.. and tho your set up is faster, with my BBS02 at 25 amps and a 52v batt i can hit 40mph full throttle while "peddling my ass off" And better.. With a full charge of 58.8v i can pull my trailer and dog up slow trails at low speeds where hub drives overheat and struggle.. add a 60v batt to both our builds and and gain even more
I put to motors in one just took the coil out and installed into the hub of the other motor was abit of mission but got it to work and only needed 1 controller and now its a monster tons of torque and speed and had a race with a mid drive beat it without trying was only using half throttle 😂😂😂😂
did you change the fuse on the battery for a bigger one? Was the battery getting hot? Thinking about doing the same, just afraid of battery catching on fire :D
I've an Cargo AWD (350 rear/250 front) fat tire (26x4.0). Fun as all hell tho am ?able on trails. Uping from Kenda Jugg to Krusade hoping for better knobbies/better tpi).
What forks are those? How don’t the drop outs get ripped out? I had a 1500 watt front hub and a 1500watt rear. The drop outs ripped out at 60 kph and I fell. Thank god I was wearing a helmet.
interesting video & i wish i was 20yrs younger, but i do have to ask due to the importance of the brakes how do you adjust for pad wear on the calipers there doesn't seem to be enough clearance to fit a tool on the fly to do this.
What's filming you?? And I need that set up on my bike. I love cycling but would be nice to not have to throw it in the car to go some where a while away on a nice day. Although I can cycle at 21 mph for a fair few miles and that's on mountain bike. But up hill help would be a great help. 😊
Steve do you know anybody in the UK but will rewire the phase cables back into my hub motor as I have a split in The Wire where it comes out of the axle ps it's a 2000 Watt mtx hub motor from Kirkby bikes
I wonder if you would get a bit more traction of you put fat tyres on it? Sure to be the case off road (especially at the beach), but maybe it would help on tarmac too???
IMO, programmable is the way forward with a higher voltage setup. Tuned down to start with, just provides more headroom, for all configurations. I know not cheap, and not for the nubie, just saying 🤔
Do you use 1 or two speed controllers? If you got to choose what would you use? I am thinking of adding another hub motor and am wondering if I should buy another speed controller, or buy one that can run 2 motors.
US cyclist here (pedal-powered only). This contraption is basically a motorcycle rather than a bicycle with an electric assist. If you are riding this thing at 45-50 MPH on a bike path you are endangering the conventional cyclists lives, not to mention the pedestrian's lives. Perhaps you are experienced and mature enough to avoid trouble, but if some stupid kids got hold of this contraption it might get them (and other people) killed. I have encountered e-bikes on bike paths here in the US, but when they get this fast and powerful I think they need to be classed as motorcycles and restricted to streets only, not bike paths or beaches. If you are into this high-powered, wheel-spinning stuff I would suggest that you buy a conventional gas-powered off-road motorcycle and take your antics onto a motorcycle track.
Go hate on cars which actually hurt so many damn people because half yall break traffic laws CONSTANTLY. You hate ebikes. We get it. Go away. Direct your anger somewhere productive.
Of course big hub motors have power - and are illegal. 2 x 1'000 Watt hub motors are illegal too. A 500 Watt middrive is already good on hills, while a 500 Watt hub motor is not.
Im pretty clueless on ev bikes. Im just wondering if anyone bothers with a front motor only and pedalling the rear to give a 2wd bike for mtb purposes.
I got an extra 5-10kmh outta my 500w fatbike by telling the controller the wheels are 14's instead of the actual 26's , since my too speed was only 35kmh , I know I'm going that speed when my speedometer says 19kmh and have only got it to show 26kmh tops which was around 50kmh downhill
I've been seeing that one battery can run 2 hubs , I've seen that there is connector's that can run 2 batteries to one hub , is there any efficiency to longer distance and being faster ?
Awesome testing man!! I'm wanting to put a front wheel 1500w motor on my gasoline rear powered Phatmoto to give it a little better Holeshot and up to mid speed range where the 4Stroke motor can haul it to top end. I still have a lot of work to do on the engine but I think I'm going to go ahead and order the Hub and my batteries, so I can configure it while I'm working on the engine output. I was considering changing the engine to a larger displacement but I like the nice tidy weight of the 79cc motor and don't want to go overboard with weight on the frame. I'm thinking I'd be better off port and polishing the small engine, and get it breathing better. It has ok torque in stock form, but I'm hoping to double it with some nifty porting 😂😂. I'm guessing that 1500w hub is probably the highest wattage I will need to go, or it's not going to get traction. I'll probably mount the Battery pack directly over the front wheel too, on my front rack. That should theoretically give it a better squat without affecting the steering and spinning all the way. If it gets squirrelly around the corner, I may have to go with a speed limit cutoff at 20mph or something. I'm seriously not wanting to kill myself, trying to go 50mph consistently 😂😂
how heavy is it ?, i think my bike is heavy already, mountainbike with only the read 2000w kit. and then the batt on it, i will weight it some day. but it's pretty heavy
Another Great video Steve. If you haven’t tried one you should get a BBSHD mid drive with a BAC855 controller and run it at both 52/72V absolute game changer and you can comfortably run 4000W 💥
yes you can run lots of power through a mid drive but the drive chain becomes a weak link. The chain will wear fast or it will break. It could also damage the free hub body. This cannot happen on a hub drive system. pro's and cons to both systems.
@@wackedoutdude I see the gears and drive chain as a huge advantage as it’s ability to change gears for all types of riding/terrain/elevation. I’ve done over 7,000 miles at 3-4000W ratings and never snapped a chain. Only use cheap one too and think I’m on 3rd in 4 years. if you’re using the gears sensibly then you’ll have zero issue. A Mid drive also has huge advantages over any steep hill climbs and superior performance over a hub motor as you can go to a huge rear cog (40T+) and just let the motor spin free.
@@jamo9000 nice one mate, 7000miles that is some serious milage. I know that using the correct Gear at the correct time is the way to go but remember lots of people who ride e-bikes don't understand that. They are not mechanically minded so a hub Gear would probably benefit them.
I started with a mid drive...was ok, but tried some hub motors, and, well...not looking back. Cheap hub motors at high volts and amps are amazing. So smooth and quiet. I love the hub motors for that reason alone. Also...i bottom out on my bottom bracket constantly...a mid drive wouldnt have lasted me long cause it basically becomes an expensive skid plate on rough terrain. Also...I go through a bottom bracket every year or two because of leg power...i am 120lbs and can leg press 600 kilos. I felt like I would also go through a mid drive unit every couple years. It was nice for climbing hills, but that is about it. Adding more power to hub motors also gets you up hills quickly. Also...you can juat keep a second set of normal mtb wheels, and remove the battery and youve mostly got your stock MTB back. Mid drive is basically now a mid drive MTB 100% of the time. And...3000w is child's play with a dual hub motor setup. You could probably push 5000 to 7000W through his current dual hub motors without much issue. It isnt needed. Most hub motors are "rated" at 250w/350w due to resteictions in different countries. I run 1100w through my "250w" hub motor and can run even more.
I'm from the states,New York. Been following you since the beginning. Love your videos. Your skills have developed so much.i learned so much from you.keep up the good work
Awesome! Thank you! 😊
My AWD ebike build I have slowed the ramp up speed on the front motor to keep it from spinning out, resulting in faster acceleration.
I added a front hub motor and upgraded forks to my aventon adventure 2. It absolutely rips now. 2WD is a game changer!
I've always thought that motorcycles should have always been 2WD!!😂
I have a similar set up but with a smaller hub using astandard gravel bike fork - I see you're using a downhill fork which may be the reason its spinning. Your weight is distributed in the back because of the high position your fork forces you in. My Gravel bike fork forces me to be on top of the handlebars, putting weight down the front so mine doesn't spin as much.
These are the forks I used www.amazon.co.uk/ZTZ-Mountain-Travel-Aluminum-Alloy-Material/dp/B08PV49KKJ?ref_=ast_sto_dp
This is absolutely right. A friend of mine runs a size smaller Tire up front to help with this. 29 in the back 26 in the front.
@DudeStuff it says the forks are unavailable
I’m currently building a 2000w dual motor mtn bike, pretty much the exact same thing as you built in this video. This was extremely helpful and answered every question I had, thanks
This video has done me up... I've been eyeing up my 1st build, and I came across your channel a couple of days back. Excellent stuff, and you're only up the road from me testing your bits, which only reinforces why I should listen and learn, because i use the same places. So I've seen this, and now my 1st build has turned into a 3000W dual motor...
Hopefully, it'll do 15mph... 😉
Great build! I'm glad you wore your safety flip flops. They work great on my Bandit 1200 as well.
When you do this set the front wheel on the controller to soft start if you can or put it 2 levels lower than the rear wheel, it will improve stability by keeping a 60/40 or so ratio back to front torque when you speed up from a stand still in soft ground. A lower max starting power will prevent the front from trying to outrace the bike since the front is much lighter than the back. Also it's not the controller that limits the max speed when going fast like that down hill, that's actually the screen firmware cutting acceleration when it detects the max speed, you can mess with the wheel size and get a higher speed, just put the wheel size smaller like 20" or something, be sure to use GPS when measuring the speed since the speed on the screen will be off.
About 5 years ago I bought a Cyclamatic PowerPlus 250watt rear hub motor e-bike - Even back then I was impressed (and all my mates) with how much fun that bike was...
I miss having an ebike and Im seriously thinking about building one just like the one in this vid...
Im going to look into it all a lot more before I start doing anything, but wow I was seriously impressed with the dual hub driven motor set-up, looks like a tonne of fun does this bike.
Cheers!
From West Yorks, UK
That's utterly ridiculous and totally irresponsible behaviour, and needless to say really dangerous.
I love it 😂
Haha I want it
My thoughts exactly, oh the fun!!!
Will you love it when it kills a family tho? Or will you tell yourself you had no idea that doing dangerous stuff on a public road can kill people?
i dont think a push bike with an electric motor will kill an entire family@@xmathmanx
@@yobrofish702 if you don't take reasonable care on the road you are risking lives, maybe looking cool is worth that tho, if you're enough of a narcissist
Good project, I would personally reduce throttle/pedal assist signal to front motor by adding resistor so front end is not as aggressive, and gain more traction.
Or just don't use the front motor until your at like 20mph or going up a hill.
They sell dual motor controllers, I’d imagine it’s a little better with a master/slave controller setup
@@shimes424Yes, but that's not necessary
You can use twi single motor controllers that support master/slave via canbus.
Vesc, sabvoton, fardriver.
You really want one of these for the direct drive motors used here.
DD motors can handle several times the power level of a geared motor.
Unfortunately, most ebikes sold are geared.
The motors here could be pumped up to 5kw each, and with a bit of ferrofluid to improve heat dissipation won't even get warm.
And you almost have to increase the power level quite a bit with a DD motors because watt for watt, they produce less torque than do geared motors.
What a great monster of a bike with some serious power I love it.
It’s just as good as I thought it would be, I’d love this bike
If it’s possible I’d limit the torque to the front hub because all that wheel spin is wasted power like a 600whp civic spinning tires on rev limit. Something like a 40/60 bias should be good or even 50/50 for pretty solid consistent launches. I don’t know how complex the controller can be programmed but if it can be adaptable you could set a range of low torque at launch with a gradual increase as the powerband levels out. I definitely wanna convert my rwd to awd but this is an important issue to overcome.
You really should get some gear. Over 30mph you’ll still shred skin and break bones when you fall. Even just a lightweight breathable aramid armor jacket and some joint and hand protection is enough for the hotter weather.
Wicked build mate!!!😎 when you bringing it over mine?!
Was hilarious seeing you ride it today mate good catchup 😁
Hey it’s beavis and butthead 😂
I built a dual motor using a trek Marlyn 6. BBSHD mid drive and a 1000watt Andy Kirbe front hub. Each with their own 52 volt 20 amp batteries. Speed and range.
Could you possible elaborate in a build video or share the combining of two controller signals to one throttle please.
Great project, and so close to my plan of doing same to a Fat Tire Ebike (already has triple clamp style front forks). Thanx in advance for help and insights you may share.
Fun 2WD bike. I build a lot of them and use independent throttles so keeping the front tire from scratching is as easy as not using the front throttle till I'm cruising fast enough to maintain traction
Sounds dumb. 2 throttles lmfao
Really good video and an interesting bike! I suppose riding it with the front set 2 levels below the rear would help in maintaining a nice ride but while minimising or possibly eliminating the wheel spin. It’s a shame there isn’t a display / controller system that can do a split screen to incorporate two motors, that would be well tidy. So.. what’s next.. maybe stick a 1500w mid-drive on it for the hat-trick! 5500w triple drive… 🚲😂🤣
Wicked bike. Looks great fun. Yes of course it will beat a 1000w or 1500w mid drive up a hill as it's 2x 2000w so a 4000w mid drive would be a interesting comparison. Where's the world's fastest ebike gone or did I somehow miss its conclusion? 😁
Watch out for Snapping Spokes under the stress of the Hubs - Replace Aluminium spokes with Stainless Steel
Does aluminum spokes exist I had no idea I only seen steal and those rope spokes
@@HeathenRides Yes Aluminium spokes are common in cheap Chinese bikes - the weight stress of a Hub Motor in the wheel in my experience lends them to snapping under torsion. You can get them all replaced with Stainless Steel easily enough.
@@BudgieFan101aluminum are more prone to bend is it not?
@@OneEyed8135 No its too weak they will just snap. Hub Motors in bike wheel are too heavy.
Nice work mate. Did you modify a rear motor to be a front wheel? The KirbEbike link site did not list a front 2000 watt hub kit? Thanx cheers
Love some electrics currently building a 72v 150a 3000w x-power 50cc into an animal.
somehow i watched both ur vids already cuz
@@jezza17 which ones my old weed grows? Starting them again soon with big production also a separate one for builds
@@jezza17 small world RUclips 😂
@@NemesisGrowz yeah bro 😂😂
Would it give more torque/ better start than this bike in the vidéo?
If you add a potentiometer between the output wire of the throttle (the white you said) on the middle pin and ground on the right pin then you should be able to set the amount of torque sent to the front tyre
Duals are just PRACTICAL over using just 1motor on a bike. I use a gear motor as the base motor and use 2nd motor of a gearless as turbo booster. Ride it like a clutch of certain terrain and slopes, use the 2nd motor to put less torque for the gear of just a nad of a throttle nudge, from my 5th gear setting onto a road when needing speeds over 25mph with turbo motor and set gear throttle with turbo throttle to regenerate the gear motor's battery. Best part it has save my ass from being hit by car of a clean quick acceleration of darting out the way like Flash from near on just a foot away from being hit by car ( I dont speed over 36mph for safety and respect for the cars and pedestrians, bike is just 2500 watts of exceeding 42mph PLUS) Use the extra power for cargo overall. Oh, I love this e bike here on this video! DIY Build is Tonka Tuff or a Monster Bike!!! Ride SAFE to save others later.
Will you be detailing a build for this ? Love to know the wiring and controller setup
Got my kit ordered from andys site today absolutely buzzing for it man estimate arrival next week
Built a 48v1500w front wheel with a 52v 2000w rear wheel on a felt frame. Earlier this year the front fork gave up. The mounts snaped and just last week the rear mounts gave way and the mounts let the rear wheel completely spin till the wires got messed up.😢 but i plan on doing it again cuz that lasted a good couple years😊
The mounts? Not even sure what you mean...fork mounts? Drop outs you mean maybe?
@@AaronHendu yes where u mount the front wheel. But just the part where the wheel axel go's. That broke
I did this and I can't believe how f'n cool this con fig is!🎉❤😂
I have a 1500 Bafang Ultra mid drive. Yes it goes up steep hill great but my dual motors 1k watts bike faster going up same hill without feeling like going to fall apart. It does so without hesitation. The Bafang great but you can’t shift without letting off on power as you tear up your chain and gears.
I watch that video where that guy states reasons dual hub motors are pointless and he couldn’t be more wrong. You get torque when you need it if you switch off front motor and you get more torque when needed when both motors are on going up steeper hills. So on my commuter bike where have dual motor dual batteries I can get power when needed to put less stress on rear motor and if not needed get more range. Plus with dual motor you can get up to speed very quickly you also gain about a mile or two top speed I notice. Yes dual motors is not for top speed as both motors are spinning at same RPM, it for torque which to me is more important.
if you put a thumb throttle for the front it will be much more controlled I built my 3000w two wheel drive 2 years ago it's awesome for hills great video's keep up the good work richie scotland
Looked like a motocross bike ripped up the shingles when you were at the beach 😂👍🤜
Epic!!
Loved this one Steve ☺️
The motors have a KV rating and 45 mph is about the max my motor does aswell so its obvious you have reached the max speed from a 52v battery, higher speeds are possible with higher voltage batteries like 72v etc
I think it needs the throttles balancing, this is why its wheel spinning. If you can balance them you will get even better performance..
Awesome creation, looks like the answer to more torque.
Really cool, I wonder if maybe having two throttles would help so the front wheel doesn’t spin out
My duel 1000w Lankeleisi mg740 is superb. Great range as well. This must be a beast!!
Nice! There’s nothing like a torque monster e-bike!!!
Yeah hub motors probably have more range but needs a lot of watts/volts to have enough torque to start in a 30 degree upwards hill..here in Norway there's signs with 30 and a triangle where it's more than 30 degrees some people (tourists) doesn't get their car's or truck's up in the summer and doesn't even dare to try in the winter which is good because many wooden houses along these narrow mountain roads would be smashed if they did try..but people here are usually nice and drive it up for you
Does those fit on 148mm boost? And what about 110mm fork ?
If you buy a front wheel motor they are usually 100-110 mm dropout fits...mine was. I used it to put in back of a bmx due to such small dropouts
Not a 2000w isn't. Maybe a smaller motor yes
I have got 750w mid-drive and a 1000w mid-drive with gear sensors, so it cuts the power when changing gears, and if you don't beat em up too much, they are good motors and I own a Zooz 750 urban ultralight ELECTRIC BMX and the hub motor on that has so much torque and no gears but I love it just as much as the mid-drive bikes so I know what you mean plus I've watched your earlier videos of the mid-drives you and Andy have made and they were funny you know what I'm talking about 😅😂
It is common sense and physics that a dual motorbike will have more torque than a mid bike❤ I've enjoyed your video keep doing what you do sir.
Good points! Direct drive is the way forward!
Do you have a build video for this? I have a bafang hub motor I’m interested to see if I could fit a wheel motor to work together? A hard job?
Great video. Love how you explain dual motor is way better than a mid drive, from your experience. I had a Dualtron scooter that was mid drive. 3250w battery and 72v.
A beast. But couldn’t go on the beach as wheels are small (13”)
Where I am I can only get a fat bike with 500w motors. And 36v batteries. But I think at least running a big 20ah battery could still be good in dual motor mode. Not as good obviously as 2000w on each but at least double will be way more powerful as you just demonstrated
with a new controller and battery can you upgrade any motor basically i have a 1500w hub and would just like to squeeze abit more outta it thinking a 52v battery and and controller with flux weakening maybe? currently on a 48v 13ah system im sure there must be something i can do
Youve got the right idea! Higher volt battery and controller with as much amps as necessary to push the wattage you are looking for. You cpjld probably do 2500w on that motor. People often install temperature probes to see how warm everything gets. As long as heat is under control, you can keep going adding amps. Yoi could probably go right to 72v with that motor but that you cannot quote me.on and better do some research.
Nice work bruv! Thanks for these builds, gives some of us you are into modding these bikes, something to base of or compare to... In short, thanks for being the Guinea pig😂😂😂👍🏾
U will be repayed in ebike heaven with 72 Virg..... Volts! 😅
I'm not sure why kit sellers can't sell dual wheel kits that use one display and are set up for popular bike brands that can be plug and play.. Bikes that can have a rear rack for a bigger second battery to be put out back. Run a bag mounted frame battery and a bag with the rear battery for a dual 15 or 20 ah set up.
I got the large frame battery, and a rear rack...it looks like I could add at least 2 more batteries on the panier rack, maybe even 4. That would give me around 2500Wh, give or take. That is the dream...enough battery to do 100km trips on a single charge. I have also been looking into ev charging stations...adapters and high amp chargers...as a way to recharge quickly on the go.
The sliders got me laughing 😂 and cringing 😮. Safety first ….maybe mr Steve👌. Brilliant
Why do you not do a hill climb for each bike (the same hill each time for consistency)? People need to know how torquey and grippy bikes are for going up off-tarmac hills. I'd not buy a bike just based on it's flat tarmac speed, and neighter would many others.
hello mate great vid ,love the channel..when i was riding regular mountain bikes i used to love titanium..not cos of the weight savings but the plush ,dampened feel that it gives you ...ever thought of doing this to a ti framed bike?
Now do a three motor bike! one on each wheel and a crank motor
That is a animal Steve good stuff dude stuff
One question don’t know if it’s stupid one would the range be massively reduced with the two motors?
I bet the range isnt reduced as much as one would think...probably same range reduction youd get if you put the second motor in a backpack unused and just carried it.
The back and fourth shaking looks like crabbing of the wheels they are not working together. Like a 4x4 would in turns. But this is linear. Can you let us know?
looks amazing but no match for my 84v GT . BLUE TOOTH battery[wth NEEEEEY] and BT YANOKING speed controller 72V.. 3000 WATT REAR DRIVE. the GT is also a 29 inch rimmed downhill bike. not for the vertically challenged
Would adding mid motor be easier than adding front? Have engwe x26 but not looking for complicated install. Looking for better take off... I know added maintenance on mid drive but looking for easiest construction. Maybe just replace back motor for better one? Would love to avoid replacing batteries but is possible? Has 48v 29mah stock. Thanks...
What volts and ah on the battery m8 . Great vid btw 👌🏾 love your content
52v 20ah standard kirbebike battery mate
Impressive 👌🏾 doin a awd set up myself but with smaller geared motors . Video very inspiring
Looks like a lotta fun bud
Now you gotta try dual hub motors AND a mid drive just for the hell of it
I guess its summer there. Winter in Sydney and solid 20 degrees every day.
Mid drives come with a shift sensor, there is no sheering if teeth, in fact it's quite smooth.. and tho your set up is faster, with my BBS02 at 25 amps and a 52v batt i can hit 40mph full throttle while "peddling my ass off" And better.. With a full charge of 58.8v i can pull my trailer and dog up slow trails at low speeds where hub drives overheat and struggle.. add a 60v batt to both our builds and and gain even more
I put to motors in one just took the coil out and installed into the hub of the other motor was abit of mission but got it to work and only needed 1 controller and now its a monster tons of torque and speed and had a race with a mid drive beat it without trying was only using half throttle 😂😂😂😂
did you change the fuse on the battery for a bigger one? Was the battery getting hot? Thinking about doing the same, just afraid of battery catching on fire :D
I've an Cargo AWD (350 rear/250 front) fat tire (26x4.0). Fun as all hell tho am ?able on trails. Uping from Kenda Jugg to Krusade hoping for better knobbies/better tpi).
What forks are those? How don’t the drop outs get ripped out? I had a 1500 watt front hub and a 1500watt rear. The drop outs ripped out at 60 kph and I fell. Thank god I was wearing a helmet.
interesting video & i wish i was 20yrs younger, but i do have to ask due to the importance of the brakes how do you adjust for pad wear on the calipers there doesn't seem to be enough clearance to fit a tool on the fly to do this.
What a beast, get a pair of schwable magic Marys that'll sort your traction out, ride safe.
What's filming you?? And I need that set up on my bike. I love cycling but would be nice to not have to throw it in the car to go some where a while away on a nice day. Although I can cycle at 21 mph for a fair few miles and that's on mountain bike. But up hill help would be a great help. 😊
Steve do you know anybody in the UK but will rewire the phase cables back into my hub motor as I have a split in The Wire where it comes out of the axle ps it's a 2000 Watt mtx hub motor from Kirkby bikes
I don't I could do with that myself
I wonder if you would get a bit more traction of you put fat tyres on it? Sure to be the case off road (especially at the beach), but maybe it would help on tarmac too???
Obviously it's still summer. I (probably others) would like to see what it does in snow. Thinking winter commute.
Not a menace to society at all 😂. Maybe a 1000w on the front maybe a bit more useable…. Save a bit of battery 🔋 life too👍.
Should of carried on up the path to Hadleigh and gone up some of them Badboy hills!
Be interesting to see 2 X phase runners with a 20s 72v pack😊
IMO, programmable is the way forward with a higher voltage setup. Tuned down to start with, just provides more headroom, for all configurations. I know not cheap, and not for the nubie, just saying 🤔
@@ballparkcy totally agree, just finished building a new 20s pack, HV is the way to go for power and efficiency, if you can master using a kweld 😄
Do you use 1 or two speed controllers? If you got to choose what would you use? I am thinking of adding another hub motor and am wondering if I should buy another speed controller, or buy one that can run 2 motors.
Helmet but flp flops. Made my day.
how fast can it pull the car and van
US cyclist here (pedal-powered only). This contraption is basically a motorcycle rather than a bicycle with an electric assist. If you are riding this thing at 45-50 MPH on a bike path you are endangering the conventional cyclists lives, not to mention the pedestrian's lives. Perhaps you are experienced and mature enough to avoid trouble, but if some stupid kids got hold of this contraption it might get them (and other people) killed.
I have encountered e-bikes on bike paths here in the US, but when they get this fast and powerful I think they need to be classed as motorcycles and restricted to streets only, not bike paths or beaches.
If you are into this high-powered, wheel-spinning stuff I would suggest that you buy a conventional gas-powered off-road motorcycle and take your antics onto a motorcycle track.
Go hate on cars which actually hurt so many damn people because half yall break traffic laws CONSTANTLY. You hate ebikes. We get it. Go away. Direct your anger somewhere productive.
I really want to build one just like this. What brand mountain bike would be best for this conversion? Looking for it to be stable at speed.
No lightweight. As massive as possible.
Of course big hub motors have power - and are illegal. 2 x 1'000 Watt hub motors are illegal too. A 500 Watt middrive is already good on hills, while a 500 Watt hub motor is not.
Im pretty clueless on ev bikes. Im just wondering if anyone bothers with a front motor only and pedalling the rear to give a 2wd bike for mtb purposes.
Need to take it to them steep grassy hills you go too
3:45 if that was a fat bike imagine the speed it’s dragging like that because it has lots of power but not enough weight to keep it grounded
I recomend lowering your tyre pressure but I’ve had those specialized tyres and they’re shit, get chunky Continental or Michelin tyres
Beautiful Build!!!! what controllers are you running?
dies 2 2000w hub motors make 4000w or are they both 4000w pls really need to know building one soon
Should have done the hill test using the back wheel only . Your weight over the wheel would have helped you up the hill wouldn't it.
So using your model. 1500 watt rear 1000watt front ? Or 2000watt rear 1000/1500 front ? Need to know
God daaaamn thanks for all the informative videos as well!!
Good evening, can you explain to us how to install two motors and how to adjust them? We will be happy with this video waiting for you
I got an extra 5-10kmh outta my 500w fatbike by telling the controller the wheels are 14's instead of the actual 26's , since my too speed was only 35kmh , I know I'm going that speed when my speedometer says 19kmh and have only got it to show 26kmh tops which was around 50kmh downhill
I've been seeing that one battery can run 2 hubs , I've seen that there is connector's that can run 2 batteries to one hub , is there any efficiency to longer distance and being faster ?
Can you link the fork?/ Talk more about it ive been struggling with Fwd/Awd bikes
Awesome testing man!! I'm wanting to put a front wheel 1500w motor on my gasoline rear powered Phatmoto to give it a little better Holeshot and up to mid speed range where the 4Stroke motor can haul it to top end. I still have a lot of work to do on the engine but I think I'm going to go ahead and order the Hub and my batteries, so I can configure it while I'm working on the engine output. I was considering changing the engine to a larger displacement but I like the nice tidy weight of the 79cc motor and don't want to go overboard with weight on the frame. I'm thinking I'd be better off port and polishing the small engine, and get it breathing better. It has ok torque in stock form, but I'm hoping to double it with some nifty porting 😂😂. I'm guessing that 1500w hub is probably the highest wattage I will need to go, or it's not going to get traction. I'll probably mount the Battery pack directly over the front wheel too, on my front rack. That should theoretically give it a better squat without affecting the steering and spinning all the way. If it gets squirrelly around the corner, I may have to go with a speed limit cutoff at 20mph or something. I'm seriously not wanting to kill myself, trying to go 50mph consistently 😂😂
Can anybody tell me how long the spokes are on a 26 inch 2000 watt MTX kirby hub?
I'm tempted to put a front hub motor on mine . Do you think it makes it look more hot for the police with 2 hubs Steve?
how heavy is it ?, i think my bike is heavy already, mountainbike with only the read 2000w kit. and then the batt on it, i will weight it some day. but it's pretty heavy
Well said dudestuff, people don't understand the speed concept, anything above 30mph+ is so sketch 😂😂😂
Absolutely mental build!! Where did you get the forks from?
Thanks and Amazon
Another Great video Steve. If you haven’t tried one you should get a BBSHD mid drive with a BAC855 controller and run it at both 52/72V absolute game changer and you can comfortably run 4000W 💥
yes you can run lots of power through a mid drive but the drive chain becomes a weak link. The chain will wear fast or it will break. It could also damage the free hub body. This cannot happen on a hub drive system. pro's and cons to both systems.
@@wackedoutdude I see the gears and drive chain as a huge advantage as it’s ability to change gears for all types of riding/terrain/elevation. I’ve done over 7,000 miles at 3-4000W ratings and never snapped a chain. Only use cheap one too and think I’m on 3rd in 4 years. if you’re using the gears sensibly then you’ll have zero issue. A Mid drive also has huge advantages over any steep hill climbs and superior performance over a hub motor as you can go to a huge rear cog (40T+) and just let the motor spin free.
@@jamo9000 nice one mate, 7000miles that is some serious milage. I know that using the correct Gear at the correct time is the way to go but remember lots of people who ride e-bikes don't understand that. They are not mechanically minded so a hub Gear would probably benefit them.
I started with a mid drive...was ok, but tried some hub motors, and, well...not looking back. Cheap hub motors at high volts and amps are amazing. So smooth and quiet. I love the hub motors for that reason alone. Also...i bottom out on my bottom bracket constantly...a mid drive wouldnt have lasted me long cause it basically becomes an expensive skid plate on rough terrain. Also...I go through a bottom bracket every year or two because of leg power...i am 120lbs and can leg press 600 kilos. I felt like I would also go through a mid drive unit every couple years. It was nice for climbing hills, but that is about it. Adding more power to hub motors also gets you up hills quickly. Also...you can juat keep a second set of normal mtb wheels, and remove the battery and youve mostly got your stock MTB back. Mid drive is basically now a mid drive MTB 100% of the time. And...3000w is child's play with a dual hub motor setup. You could probably push 5000 to 7000W through his current dual hub motors without much issue. It isnt needed. Most hub motors are "rated" at 250w/350w due to resteictions in different countries. I run 1100w through my "250w" hub motor and can run even more.