The oil port doesn’t lubricate the drawbar. It is packed with grease and TSC often leaks in and corrodes the drawbar. The oil/air port only lubes the spindle bearings.
They charge you 6000 dollars for the entire cartdridge because it's assembled in a clean enviroment with lots of care. This is not a job you can do in your shop the way you did it and expect the same results. I suggest the video about spindle bearings that Robin Renzetti uploaded to his channel. You'll see a difference or two between both ways.
good morning Michael from the uk could you tell me where you got your new drawbar from as when i contacted haas the dont supply them separately thank you
To be honest, rolling the dice. Aside of making a new one, it's all I could do at the moment. I figure I could change the bearings roughly 4 to 6 times to equal a factory new one. Thus far has been cutting and running fine.
To those that want a bearing number. I will not post my numbers becuz they are very expensive... and if the bearing are different from one to another... I dont want someone to be out. Basically... pull it apart and read the correct numbers off your bearing. Any bearing shop can cross them.
Hey Michael, I've contacted the OEM for the bearings with the bearing number and was advised they are proprietary and cannot be sold. Where did you purchase your bearings from? From a 1996 Haas VF3.
I have done the same procedure as you have but now getting a loud knock when doing tool unclamp . Did you also have to readjust that after fitting the spindle ?
You shouldn't have to. As long as you installed the threaded pins in the draw bar properly and are snug, there shouldn't really be any adjustment needed.
Sir can u help me about this how can i pullout the coupler from spindle shafting pls help me sir the spindle that i replace bearing is same to youre demo haas cnc spindle is very hard to me to pullout the coupler drive thanks sir
I use a torch to gently heat it all the while putting tension on it with a gear puller. When it get warm enough to expand it should literally pop off due to the gear puller slightly compressing the draw bar.
I like your video, but you failed to explain the most critical part of this process... the proper mounting of the matched set of the angular contact spindle bearings. There is a reason why professional service technicians are paid what they are paid, because they know these things. Secondly, machine tool manufacturers sell these spindle cartridges as complete assemblies, because they are balanced after assembly at the factory. Finally, shims are used by FST's who don't understand how to tram the column.
The spindle needs to align where it's mounted. It needs to be parallel to the z axis and perpendicular to the x & y. You aren't supposed to shift the z-rails off vertical to compensate for the mating surface that mounts the spindle - unless you want to cut diagonal vertical lines. No one going to warp their column or do some other extreme measure like trying to resurface the mating surface for something that every guide says to use shims to accomplish. There's not a single machine in this aerospace machine shop that doesn't have a manufacturer guide saying to use shims to align the spindle at the mating surface if needed, including a 5-axis machine. Your comment doesn't make _the FST's_ seem ignorant...
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. Another valuable piece of info gathered for my upcoming cartridge rebuild
The oil port doesn’t lubricate the drawbar. It is packed with grease and TSC often leaks in and corrodes the drawbar. The oil/air port only lubes the spindle bearings.
They charge you 6000 dollars for the entire cartdridge because it's assembled in a clean enviroment with lots of care. This is not a job you can do in your shop the way you did it and expect the same results. I suggest the video about spindle bearings that Robin Renzetti uploaded to his channel. You'll see a difference or two between both ways.
good morning Michael from the uk could you tell me where you got your new drawbar from as when i contacted haas the dont supply them separately thank you
haas quoted $15,000 for new spindle hens y i just need a new drawbar
@@filipszymanski6255 You rebuild the old one with new belleville washers. I get mine from Mc Master Carr.
What about the balancing of the drawbar pushing collar thing, when it has a huge piece missing?
To be honest, rolling the dice. Aside of making a new one, it's all I could do at the moment. I figure I could change the bearings roughly 4 to 6 times to equal a factory new one. Thus far has been cutting and running fine.
To those that want a bearing number. I will not post my numbers becuz they are very expensive... and if the bearing are different from one to another... I dont want someone to be out. Basically... pull it apart and read the correct numbers off your bearing. Any bearing shop can cross them.
Hey Michael, I've contacted the OEM for the bearings with the bearing number and was advised they are proprietary and cannot be sold. Where did you purchase your bearings from? From a 1996 Haas VF3.
Hi, can you please tell me the reference of bearing you used, i see that is NSK. But the reference please.
CAN YOU PLEASE ADD PART NUMBERS FOR BEARINGS?? GOOD VIDEO AND WILL BE VERY HELPFUL WHEN REPLACING BEARINGS IN MY MACHINE. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.
Hi Michael, what are the bearing numbers you used? Do you think they would be the same on a 6000 RPM spindle that uses grease?
Thanks!
I have done the same procedure as you have but now getting a loud knock when doing tool unclamp . Did you also have to readjust that after fitting the spindle ?
You shouldn't have to. As long as you installed the threaded pins in the draw bar properly and are snug, there shouldn't really be any adjustment needed.
The preload pressure on the drawbar is too low. The air regulator for this is inside the spindle cover. I think it should be around 15 psi.
Sir can u help me about this how can i pullout the coupler from spindle shafting pls help me sir the spindle that i replace bearing is same to youre demo haas cnc spindle is very hard to me to pullout the coupler drive thanks sir
I use a torch to gently heat it all the while putting tension on it with a gear puller. When it get warm enough to expand it should literally pop off due to the gear puller slightly compressing the draw bar.
Why you are not giving the bearing codes lower bearings 7012
What were the bearing part numbers?
hi sir iam from india .I want know the bearing sizes for the spindle please
I like your video, but you failed to explain the most critical part of this process... the proper mounting of the matched set of the angular contact spindle bearings. There is a reason why professional service technicians are paid what they are paid, because they know these things.
Secondly, machine tool manufacturers sell these spindle cartridges as complete assemblies, because they are balanced after assembly at the factory.
Finally, shims are used by FST's who don't understand how to tram the column.
The spindle needs to align where it's mounted. It needs to be parallel to the z axis and perpendicular to the x & y.
You aren't supposed to shift the z-rails off vertical to compensate for the mating surface that mounts the spindle - unless you want to cut diagonal vertical lines.
No one going to warp their column or do some other extreme measure like trying to resurface the mating surface for something that every guide says to use shims to accomplish.
There's not a single machine in this aerospace machine shop that doesn't have a manufacturer guide saying to use shims to align the spindle at the mating surface if needed, including a 5-axis machine.
Your comment doesn't make _the FST's_ seem ignorant...
You not mensen how to rimu Frant bering