i was quoted $14000 do have my VF4 spindle replaced, so I decided to do it myself, and save the $$$, maybe 10hrs of my labour, and $300 for 4 bearings, and it runs great!
As of November 2001 you can buy that push out collar from CNC replacement parts online. The drawbar on the spindle is an amazingly good condition save for the need to run through a solvent tank a couple times. I've had good luck replacing the Belleville washers on the spindle draw bars. There's about $60 worth of washers in a draw bar versus 4 to $900 for a new one depending on your spindle.
They don't want you opening it up because then you'd see how easy it was to fix and how they were ripping you off. There is significantly less magic inside a spindle than some think. They are usually far less impressive than their price would suggest. Those pins broke because it was poorly made. They keep the myth going so they can charge $1000+ to install $300 bearings. Anyone with a press and 30 minutes can replace bearings, fans, spacers etc. Anyone with a decent CNC lathe could make their own spindle shaft too.
Can you go a bit into depth about the preloading of the bearings? Maybe make a video about it? I have a machine with the same spindle bearings and judging by the slight increasing noise from the spindle I think I have the same operation ahead of me. The replacement spindle is roughly the same price as yours so I will probably take it apart and at least try to fix it :)
When I bought the bearings from a bearing company, they can tell what the pre-load should be. I dont have the equipment to "load" them or check the load, so I just pressed them so they roll snug. It's all back yard mechanics, but it works. The first bearings i did a couple years back, i pressed too much load on them. They created alot of heat. Ultimately i did raid it apart and re-loaded the bearings but they only lasted 6 months. The second set I did on that machine are still running. Been about 2 years and still sound good. I was told when loading them, your spindle should have a little resistance. Should spin roughly one turn before stopping freely.
When you specify bearing number(full) it already has a predefined preload. Preload of those bearings is defined by thickness difference between inner and outer rings, so if you install them correctly and tighten a nut or fit a press-fit ring preload sets itself by micrometer gap between inner rings
I am super interested in this. I just bought a 95 VF3 and I know nothing about it. (check out my channel if your curious) I am learning about spindles now in case I have to replace it. How do you get that pressed nut off?
Press it off. I think one was a puller, but if you can get a bearing clamp under it, a press can get it all off. Putting it back together, I bought some round tubing stock to make sure I pressed on the inner race.
We re-worked a SM ATC gearbox on our Super Mini, after finding out that it's also 4k +core for a replacement, and that it's replacement only, no repairs. Was a pain to pull and drop the carousel, but all together not that bad. Ordered a new needle bearing for $50 that was a direct replacement and polished out where the old bearing had backed out and rubbed against the cam way floor. That was almost 5 years ago. That machine is still in production, and while there's been a couple more issues with the ATC, none of them have been the gearbox.
i was quoted $14000 do have my VF4 spindle replaced, so I decided to do it myself, and save the $$$, maybe 10hrs of my labour, and $300 for 4 bearings, and it runs great!
As of November 2001 you can buy that push out collar from CNC replacement parts online. The drawbar on the spindle is an amazingly good condition save for the need to run through a solvent tank a couple times. I've had good luck replacing the Belleville washers on the spindle draw bars. There's about $60 worth of washers in a draw bar versus 4 to $900 for a new one depending on your spindle.
They don't want you opening it up because then you'd see how easy it was to fix and how they were ripping you off. There is significantly less magic inside a spindle than some think. They are usually far less impressive than their price would suggest. Those pins broke because it was poorly made.
They keep the myth going so they can charge $1000+ to install $300 bearings. Anyone with a press and 30 minutes can replace bearings, fans, spacers etc.
Anyone with a decent CNC lathe could make their own spindle shaft too.
Nice tutorial!! Do you have the bearings numbers or size?
I have high pitch noise on my spindle do you think bearing is the problem here?
Can you share the bearing #
Can you go a bit into depth about the preloading of the bearings? Maybe make a video about it?
I have a machine with the same spindle bearings and judging by the slight increasing noise from the spindle I think I have the same operation ahead of me. The replacement spindle is roughly the same price as yours so I will probably take it apart and at least try to fix it :)
When I bought the bearings from a bearing company, they can tell what the pre-load should be. I dont have the equipment to "load" them or check the load, so I just pressed them so they roll snug. It's all back yard mechanics, but it works. The first bearings i did a couple years back, i pressed too much load on them. They created alot of heat. Ultimately i did raid it apart and re-loaded the bearings but they only lasted 6 months. The second set I did on that machine are still running. Been about 2 years and still sound good.
I was told when loading them, your spindle should have a little resistance. Should spin roughly one turn before stopping freely.
When you specify bearing number(full) it already has a predefined preload. Preload of those bearings is defined by thickness difference between inner and outer rings, so if you install them correctly and tighten a nut or fit a press-fit ring preload sets itself by micrometer gap between inner rings
1 spin
I am super interested in this. I just bought a 95 VF3 and I know nothing about it. (check out my channel if your curious) I am learning about spindles now in case I have to replace it. How do you get that pressed nut off?
Press it off. I think one was a puller, but if you can get a bearing clamp under it, a press can get it all off.
Putting it back together, I bought some round tubing stock to make sure I pressed on the inner race.
In before "This is not a user serviceable component, please contact your local Haas Factory Outlet for service or replacement"
We re-worked a SM ATC gearbox on our Super Mini, after finding out that it's also 4k +core for a replacement, and that it's replacement only, no repairs. Was a pain to pull and drop the carousel, but all together not that bad. Ordered a new needle bearing for $50 that was a direct replacement and polished out where the old bearing had backed out and rubbed against the cam way floor.
That was almost 5 years ago. That machine is still in production, and while there's been a couple more issues with the ATC, none of them have been the gearbox.