Of course, you can only give a very superficial introduction to a machine like this in such a short video. So if you would like to know anything else, or just need some information, please let me know.
Have you measured the roundness deviation you can achieve when milling a circle? I would generally be interested in the precision and accuracy your machine is able to achieve! :)
hey awesome machine, and quite a bit better desinged than my 5-ax mill......but id like to know how much you spent ? id guess somewhere in the 8-12k range
@@JohnWilliams-qk4ik Unfortunately, my linear ball screws are not preloaded and are of simple quality (T7). The result here would certainly only be moderately good..
@@9voltprojects thats honestly less than expected 😮 i also spenk 4.5k on my mill, and the quality of most parts is "aliexpress "😂 cant afford more at 19
Sir, the artistry across all disciplines of design, build and control is astounding. You have made the machine that everybody wants but only you have! Robust, capable, compact, simple, not to mention absolutely beautiful. I would love to see an in-depth series on the construction of this machine, but dont give too much away! you should be kitting and selling this thing!
Thanks ;-) Unfortunately, I don't have any video footage of the spindles being built. I'll see if I can find some pictures, then I could try to make a "short" out of it.
Having watched your other videos, i see that you are a true craftsman. Your machine is incredibly rigid. I thought you were joking when you took that deep cut into steel! Thanks for sharing your work.
If you said you're a toolmaker you could've fooled me :) Very impressive build and design! And wrote your own firmware for it too! Truly a one of a kind machine.
Wow 😮 Ich arbeite bei einem großen Hersteller der Mill-Turn Maschinen herstellt. Dort im Außendienst tätig und finde die Erklärungen und was Du da gebaut hast echt klasse 👍🏼 Weiter so!
Damn, first time i see that carefully maked DIY machine, just perfect, often people lost their entusiasm and machine are not ended in 100%, this one is perfect.
Die Maschine ist unglaublich beeindruckend. Ich hätte ja erwartet, dass du gekaufte Controller verbaut hast, aber als ich gehört hab, dass du auch den selber gebaut hast (inklusive Firmware!!!), war ich sprachlos. Das ganze Projekt ist einfach ein Meisterwerk. Das System, welches Drehmeißel und die Frässpindel auf der gleichen Führung kombiniert, ist der Hammer.
Vielen Dank, freut mich das Dir meine Konstruktion gefällt :) Da ich keinen weiteren Platz für eine Drehmaschine hatte, musste ich halt erfinderisch sein. Elektronik mache ich quasi seit ich laufen kann, deshalb auch der Eigenbau des Controllers.
Incredible! I've been scouring youtube looking for home made mill turns or swiss type lathes. This is pretty much identical to what I want to build. Strong work.
I have to say, this is my absolute favorite DIY Mill and Lathe machine I have so far seen online after years of looking for and watching these types of videos! Absolutely incredible work man!!! Thank you for going over all of this in such great detail. It unfortunately looks like it would be incredibly expensive to build, and is something I can only dream about, but gives me hope and a will to live, so that I can one day possess something as incredibly awesome as this machine! LOL
That's a nice build. I'm actually happy to see that more people use a similar trick as I do for lathing... I basically just mount it right next to the spindle as well. I've had trouble with stainless steel and don't have a good solution for boring yet, but other than that it seems to work quite well. I'd add a proper flood coolant personally. My experience with milling steel and alu is that you can't throw enough fluid on it (and I do a lot of alu). Not only will that wash away the splinters, but it will also help significantly with the life of your tools. Like me, you put the electronics below the cnc - and like me you're probably going to regret that eventually if you flood the thing. I threw the whole cnc in a steel cabinet. There's acoustic foam on the market that does wonders for the neighborhood. Plus, if you do it right, the cabinet can be used to add some more rigidity to the whole thing. But that's just details; great job! I was wondering about the spindle here... did you design and lathe the HSK spindle by yourself or buy an off the shelves HSK adapter? From the single screw it might seem viable to use a stepper to torque it down? I dunno, it's hard to see without a design, but I'd like to see more about that. I also like how you used set screws solution for the rails. I'm not sure if it's better than lapping the rails upside down in a vise, but it seems pretty viable. Did you make all of these yourself?
Extremely impressive!!! It is amazing how much thought you put into what you did. And the aesthetics of your build are also quite amazing. Very functional and beautiful at the same time. The pride you put into your work is quite obvious.
Thank you :-) I've never really understood why so many hobby builders usually build it the other way around. Ok, there is more mass to move, but it is much stiffer and easier to build
@@9voltprojects True, depends a little bit on the aspect ratio of the machine and if it is a traveling gantry or bed but for your machine it looks very fitting.
Diese CNC ist so die BESTE welche ich bisher auf RUclips gefunden habe!!!!!!! Wenn es dafür eine Bauanleitung geben würde…….. :-). 🙏 Das ist kein HOBBY - das ist 100% Engineering 👍 Ich habe den Kanal sofort abonniert :-)
Wow, great job all around on the machine and the video! The extra carriages you slide onto the X rails for turbing work is a clever solution. I would love to see a video on the mill spindle design.
Thanks for sharing, the effort you put into this is inspirational. I love the additional slide-on attachments for turning! Something I might have to look into making :) Peace.
This machine is really a Masterpiece. I hope you can make more Vids about it. Especially i am interested in how you made the two Spindles with the Servo Motors, and the hight adjustment of the Linear-Rails.
This is amazing What a beautiful machine you've made! Im jealous of your knowledge and persistence in not only trying but also completing a project like this.... in your kitchen!
So amazing would you share the 3d model. I’m working on a tools and the parts that you are using would help a lot. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and taking the time to do this video. Absolutely amazing.
Amazing machine! So much work in it. I'm not sure how you program the turning but you might want a tool holder interface that constrains in 3 dimensions so you can maintain tool offsets. If you made a capto holder and used capto lathe tools, you wouldn't need to reset the z offset with each tool change.
@9voltprojects Fair enough. I do quite a bit of turning on my mill. I have a stick tool block and have found this a hurdle so am mid way through building a capto 4 based block that should make tool changes a lot quicker. The list is always too long!
Thank you.. I think anyone with good metalworking skills doesn't need a construction plan or CAD files from me. I've also just copied most of the things from the big boys in the business. Less experienced hobbyists I would advise to start with a smaller project.
What do you feel is the advantage, or disadvantages, of having the Z axis rails on the support pillars (also supporting the X axis)? Your Z stepper will have to do more work, the X steppers less, compared to a typical CNC router. At first I thought this was a CNC router but when looking at the details I said, no this is a mill. A very interesting design.
In my view, the advantages of this design outweigh the disadvantages. The decisive reason for me is the higher rigidity due to the better lever ratios. The lower the working height, the stiffer the working conditions. Of course, the Z-Stepper has to move the entire weight (50 kg). But this is also an advantage because the z-axis is always preloaded. Only the dynnamics is affected by this, of course.
The rapid speed is 2m/min! Unfortunately, I don't know the actual acceleration values. The acceleration ramps are generated in the FPGA by up/down counters preloaded with values. These values then determine the steepness of the acceleration ramps. I then tested different steep ramps in experiments, so that step losses are excluded. But I have never calculated the resulting acceleration values. Thank you for your question! :)
A well executed project! Very impressive that you created all custom electronics (with an FPGA) and wrote all the embedded software. One suggestion regarding terminology is that 'Borders' could probably be replaced 'Boundaries', if you ever plan to open source or share your firmware. But of course, whatever conveys the information works for a personal project 😂
I had been looking for the right term while programming. I had thought about fences and borders, but both felt wrong somehow. Yep, boundaries ;-) A bit too long for my display, but let's see... Thank you very much!
I am surprised you get deviation in the straightness of linear rails this thick..I always thought these were ruler straight We use the miniature MGN12C rails a lot in our products. Can’t imagine the deviation in these tiny rails…I think I would have to devise a method of correction.. Thanks for posting the video btw
This is nothing unusual and happens during the production of the rails, regardless of the size of the rails or the manufacturer. The error can be compensated for by mounting the rails against a reference stop edge in the machine bed. This stop edge must first be milled/ground in the machine bed. This is explicitly pointed out in the manufacturer's application manuals, at least by the premium manufacturers. As I cannot machine such a high-precision stop edge, I had to come up with something else. ruclips.net/video/QeP8l_hgdT0/видео.html
Thank you so much or sharing this video. I must say what you have created and built is a masterpiece Mill-Turn machine (one of a kind) in the DIY hobby space. I also have a background in Electronics and like you I am able to understand Mechnical pricipals relatively easily and been keen to build my own machine and learning how to use Fusion 360 for producing the CAD design. But having no access to a reasonably rigid cnc, to mill the parts. I see you showed pics of your first cnc built using aluminium extrusions, and I would like to know what was the workarea of that machine and did it mill all the aluminium parts that went into building this awesome piece of engineering? I would like to build a basic machine and did some research and found there are various different types of profiles offered by Motedis such as I-Type slot 5,6,8 and B-Type 6,8,10. What type of profiles would you recommend?
Thank you very much! To be honest, I can't remember the exact working area of my first machine. I hadn't made a 3D model. I think the working area was approx. 330x230mm. I can't really recommend extruded aluminum profiles. At first glance, a construction with them looks temptingly simple. These profiles are not dimensionally accurate and you will encounter problems when aligning the axles. Another problem is that the parts cannot be joined together with sufficient rigidity. It may be that some people see it differently. But that is my experience. If you still want to use them, then take the ones with the thickest wall thickness and the largest cross-section. Good luck and have fun building!
@@9voltprojects I agree with everything you have mentioned and will keep in mind about choosing a profile that has the thickest possible wall thickness and the largest cross-section area. Will keep you in the loop. If I have any question along the my cnc journey then if you don't mind I will be in touch again. :)
Congratulations on your machine and the effort you’ve put into it. I am currently beginning to design my own machine, primarily for milling aluminum and plastics. I am interested to know what type of ball screw you used in the construction. Is the lead 5 mm or 10 mm? What is the precision class-C3, C5, or C7? Did you use higher-quality Chinese components, or a more well-known brand? Also, what torque do the stepper motors have? Lastly, what repeatability, precision can you achieve with it? Thank you in advance for your response! Best regards, Daniel
The ball screws I use are from Isel. They are manufactured in Germany, but are of low-cost quality. They are rolled and in tolerance class C7. The pitch is 4mm for X and Y and 5mm for Z. In terms of accuracy, they are not bad at all. Unfortunately, they are not preloaded, which is why I would like to replace them one day. I haven't installed any Chinese parts except the guide rail for my sliding door 😉 The stepper have a torque of 2NM. Good luck with your construction..
You do not need a CAD file for the leveling plates/blocks. They consist of 40x30x10mm steel and an m8 leveling screw in each corner. There is a through hole in the middle of the plate for the rail screw. And that's it. The challenge is to get them all at exactly the same height. For this you need a reference, e.g. a granite ruler or something and a very good dial indicator. It took me a week to get it right, so be warned. The clamps to straighten the rails are very specific to my machine. I don't have a CAD file of them, I made them right out of my head. The rails of my X and Z axis I also straightened with other tools, but that would have been too much for the video. Just build something to bring the force to the point of highest deviation. I was surprised at how easy it is to straighten them.
I noticed for X axis you did not have leveling plate, have you grounded base? Also with leveling plates you need to level everything together, as without central bolt and rail they won’t stay?
I used double-grinded precision steel plates from Meusburger for the bridge of the X-axis and the machine table. That's why I didn't make any further adjustments to the X-axis.
A great Machine! Thanks for sharing with us I'm interested in more Details about the Spindle design especially bearings, Servodrive and tool change . Is there any sensor to measure your turning tools or is it manual measure offset like turning by hand ? How do you set the height offset for the turning tool? Have you thought about using a multi fix tool change system for quick change the turning tools? Thanks 👍 👍 👍
Thank you! I do not use a sensor for tool measurement when turning. I do it like this: After the first machining pass, I zero the displayed position of the Z-axis. Then I measure the diameter of the workpiece with the micrometer. I then enter the radius as the Z position in my control unit. I can work very precisely this way. Additional measuring sensors would tend to interfere with my workflow. I may be a bit old school in this respect, but I like it that way.
Thanks I have some more questions 😄 How do you manufacturing all the parts? With your old machine or on an industrial CNC ? How much time and money did you spend?
Unfortunately, I do not have access to industrial machines. All parts were made on the machine in the intro. Later I made or optimized some parts on my current machine.
Understood. Have you considered sharing your designs either commercially or under a creative commons license or alternative open source license? I believe your machine would be liked by many others who might improve upon your design and share those improvements as well.
Awesome realisation. I'm surprise you can have that kind of precision with only aluminium frame without vibration. I just wandering what is the need to add additional slider for turning instead of having tool directly attached to the side of the milling spindle. I'm sure there is a reason but I'm only an electronics engineer who love to go outside its confort zone : ). I was not aware also that you can rigid taping with mach 3 contrôler. Anyway the result is quite amazing
@@9voltprojects I've seen that and what a side project !! I'm an electronics engineer, and I know what It's like to design stuff that works. (I don't like those FPGA they don't open their minds to debugging easily) I don't know why I fell in love with CNC and metal work, getting outside my comfort zone. I'm in the process of building my second CNC. The first one was crappy little thing more like of a router. I don't want to spend too much time on controller so centroid acornsix will be the way. I was in gantry design with some epoxy granite but after seing your design, I will go your way. What I love is that the whole Y-axis is moving. It's easily understandable that it will be far more stiff when you machine low-height parts compared to those long plate that overhang. One thing that I don't understand. The Z ballscrew attachment...Where is that low end fixing block ? It looks like their is no and that's a really floating side. The only drawback is the protection of the X rails and ballscrew that will be a little more tricky Design spindle is also very nice; maybe this is the part that impressed me the most. It solve one of my issues. Having a strong tool changer without using compressed air (I don't need an ATC). But as I'm not confident enough to try to build a part like that, I'll buy a small and silent compressor, and a Jianken 5.5kw permanent magnet rotor with 3.5Nm with BT30.. I've also see you mixed aluminium and steel to keep it reasonably not too heavy. Is there some point of attention I need to take into account about different thermal expansion between steel and aluminium (for Z lineay rail fixing) or we don't really care ?
@@UPR91 Correct, you should think/care about all the physical relationships when building a machine, including the temperature range and the behavior when using different materials. The higher your requirements in terms of accuracy, the greater the effort. In other words, the greater the temperature fluctuations (day/night) at the installation site, the greater the deviations. Ball screw spindles do not necessarily have to have a floating bearing. It depends on their length.
@@9voltprojects Thx for the answers. I still have a question as I move forward in the design. How did you square the vertical assembly to the base ? I see some pin to perform an accurate angular the link. Does it fit 90° by precision machining or you squared it and drill after ? Dit you glue the surface with some kind of epoxy before assembly making the whole stuff more rigid but loosing the possibility to further adjustment of dissassembly ?
The spindle bearings are from FAG. I still have to look up all the part numbers. I'll do that together in a future video about building another spindle.
Thank you! I'm not sure what exactly is meant by 'angle indexing'. The servo motor has a 17bit encoder and can rotate the spindle to any position (angular steps) of 360°/131072. The servo driver also provides an index signal every 360°, which I use to measure the spindle speed with my controller(FPGA).
@@9voltprojects Meaning, can the lathe rotate in degrees and lock in position, for the mill to come in and machine a flat surface and then on that flat surface? For example, say I want machine a hex shape at the end of a rod, and then engrave one of the faces, then rotate, and drill thru another face. In other words, instead of RPM motion, I get angular rotation with locking in positionn.
@@PaulG.369 The answer is yes and no ;-) It is possible to engrave the radius of a round workpiece, which I have already done. But I can't engrave a flat surface in this way. That would require the turning spindle to be mounted on the machine table or the gantry to be movable in the Y direction (milling view), which is not the case. Yes, I can drill small holes in a clamped workpiece at any angle. However, this is only possible to a very limited extent because the spindle shaft is driven by a belt and is therefore not absolutely torsionally rigid. A worm gear would be necessary for this. I prefer to do such work on the rotary table.
Yes, that would give me some extra space. But the spindle shaft would have to be able to be fixed absolutely rigidly at the spindle nose. I had no idea how to implement this without making the spindle even bigger and heavier.
@@9voltprojects if it's not achievable electronically with the motor or a brake on the motor then maybe a mechanical pin or an electromagnetic brake/clamp mechanism that engages/clamps into/on the drive pulley of the spindle . There are some limitations to the belted drive rather than direct but a guy with your talents will be able to engineer around it.
@@weldchip Unfortunately, this is not possible with a brake alone. The resulting forces must be kept away from the spindle bearings. Unfortunately, this makes such spindles very large and heavy (DMG, Mazak etc.)
Hello, your machine is great, I really take off the hat I'm building a machine but with many limitations I don't have my own workshop to build but I love your machine can I ask some information about your machine...
No big plans so far.. I mainly use this machine to make spare parts or to improve appliances for everyday use. Apart from that, the beauty always looks at me when I walk into my kitchen ;-)
Good day. I liked the concept of your CNC machine. I also tried to assemble approximately the same machine in Solidworks, and according to calculations, the height of the Z axis cannot be 280 mm, even in the video you can see that the ball screw of the Z axis hangs much lower than 280 mm. Can you explain this point? 🤨
@@9voltprojects Yes, but you also have a screw under the X axis, which for large workpieces will interfere with movement along the Y axis. Or have you somehow solved this problem?
Hallo Chris, klasse Video und super Maschine mit so viel nützlichem Zubehör! Ich habe auch eine CNC-Maschine gebaut und würde bei einer zweiten auch einiges anders machen, z.B. eine vierte Achse einplanen. Ich möchte eine kleine CNC-Drehmaschine bauen und dafür würde mir als Spindel so etwas wie deine 4. Achse vollkommen ausreichen. Leider kann ich mit meiner CNC-Fräse so ein Spindelgehäuse nicht aus einem Block herstellen. Evtl. könnte ich das Gehäuse aus mehreren z.B. 30mm Alu-Platten fertigen. Habe ich das richtig verstanden, dass Du die Spindel selbst gebaut hast? Wie hast Du die gefertigt? Dafür braucht man doch eine präzise Drehmaschine damit die Passungen für die Lager stimmen. Vielleicht hast Du ja Lust zu deiner 4. Achse ein Video zu erstellen!? Ich denke, dass würde viel Hobbyfräsenbauer interessieren. VG Anton
Hallo Anton, ich werde zukünftig einige Videos über den Bau von Spindeln veröffentlichen. Das wird allerdings noch etwas dauern. Einige Deiner Fragen werden dann in den Videos beantwortet. Vielen Dank für Dein Interesse und schau einfach von Zeit zu Zeit mal wieder vorbei!
@@9voltprojects Hallo Chris kannst Du einen Link zur Spindelpatrone - also dem Stahlteil in deiner 4. Achse angeben? Das ist doch ein Kaufteil? VG Anton
Of course, you can only give a very superficial introduction to a machine like this in such a short video. So if you would like to know anything else, or just need some information, please let me know.
Have you measured the roundness deviation you can achieve when milling a circle? I would generally be interested in the precision and accuracy your machine is able to achieve! :)
hey awesome machine, and quite a bit better desinged than my 5-ax mill......but id like to know how much you spent ? id guess somewhere in the 8-12k range
@@Basement_CNC
Thank you :)
I honestly don't know what I spent on all the parts and raw material. 8K maybe, but probably a little less...
@@JohnWilliams-qk4ik
Unfortunately, my linear ball screws are not preloaded and are of simple quality (T7). The result here would certainly only be moderately good..
@@9voltprojects thats honestly less than expected 😮
i also spenk 4.5k on my mill, and the quality of most parts is "aliexpress "😂 cant afford more at 19
Sir, the artistry across all disciplines of design, build and control is astounding. You have made the machine that everybody wants but only you have! Robust, capable, compact, simple, not to mention absolutely beautiful. I would love to see an in-depth series on the construction of this machine, but dont give too much away! you should be kitting and selling this thing!
I thank you very much 🙂
Please make a video of how you build the spindles :) I am sure everybody wants to see the process!!! Thanks
ne uno a la idea , seria genial ver el proceso
yeah many videos about cnc ways, but i've never seen one about a self made spindle.
Yes!! The HSK spindle is definitely the most interesting part of the machine.
@9voltprojects EVERYONE demands knowledge for Spindle!!!!! YESSS!!! Please, give us knowledge!!!
Yeah, I want to know how the Aux spindle to turning is made. Thanks!
my jaws dropped to the other side of the earth when I knew the spindle is self made, I really hope to see how did you do this amazing achievement
Thanks ;-) Unfortunately, I don't have any video footage of the spindles being built. I'll see if I can find some pictures, then I could try to make a "short" out of it.
@@9voltprojects that would be pretty cool, i'll be waiting for the notification
Having watched your other videos, i see that you are a true craftsman. Your machine is incredibly rigid. I thought you were joking when you took that deep cut into steel! Thanks for sharing your work.
No jokes 😉 I achieved the rigidity through the relatively large cross-sections.
Thank you!
This is very well done, better than many professionally built small machines.
What a nice compliment :-) Thank you very much!
If you said you're a toolmaker you could've fooled me :) Very impressive build and design! And wrote your own firmware for it too! Truly a one of a kind machine.
..just a hobbyist with skilled hands :)
Thank you!
Wow 😮
Ich arbeite bei einem großen Hersteller der Mill-Turn Maschinen herstellt. Dort im Außendienst tätig und finde die Erklärungen und was Du da gebaut hast echt klasse 👍🏼
Weiter so!
Ich dank Dir :-)
Very impressive!
I always said the electronics guys make the best mechanical engineers... 😎👍
:) :) :)
Damn, first time i see that carefully maked DIY machine, just perfect, often people lost their entusiasm and machine are not ended in 100%, this one is perfect.
Thank you. Yes, that's right. Some people simply underestimate the time and cost required to build and complete such a machine.
Die Maschine ist unglaublich beeindruckend. Ich hätte ja erwartet, dass du gekaufte Controller verbaut hast, aber als ich gehört hab, dass du auch den selber gebaut hast (inklusive Firmware!!!), war ich sprachlos. Das ganze Projekt ist einfach ein Meisterwerk. Das System, welches Drehmeißel und die Frässpindel auf der gleichen Führung kombiniert, ist der Hammer.
Vielen Dank, freut mich das Dir meine Konstruktion gefällt :)
Da ich keinen weiteren Platz für eine Drehmaschine hatte, musste ich halt erfinderisch sein. Elektronik mache ich quasi seit ich laufen kann, deshalb auch der Eigenbau des Controllers.
Incredible! I've been scouring youtube looking for home made mill turns or swiss type lathes. This is pretty much identical to what I want to build. Strong work.
Thank you very much! I hope I was able to give you a few ideas along the way. :-)
Your creativity never ceases to amaze me.
Oh, thank you 🙂
I have to say, this is my absolute favorite DIY Mill and Lathe machine I have so far seen online after years of looking for and watching these types of videos!
Absolutely incredible work man!!!
Thank you for going over all of this in such great detail.
It unfortunately looks like it would be incredibly expensive to build, and is something I can only dream about, but gives me hope and a will to live, so that I can one day possess something as incredibly awesome as this machine! LOL
I am very pleased that you like my video and my machine. Thank you very much for the really nice comment! You will make it too 🙂
That's a nice build. I'm actually happy to see that more people use a similar trick as I do for lathing... I basically just mount it right next to the spindle as well. I've had trouble with stainless steel and don't have a good solution for boring yet, but other than that it seems to work quite well.
I'd add a proper flood coolant personally. My experience with milling steel and alu is that you can't throw enough fluid on it (and I do a lot of alu). Not only will that wash away the splinters, but it will also help significantly with the life of your tools. Like me, you put the electronics below the cnc - and like me you're probably going to regret that eventually if you flood the thing.
I threw the whole cnc in a steel cabinet. There's acoustic foam on the market that does wonders for the neighborhood. Plus, if you do it right, the cabinet can be used to add some more rigidity to the whole thing.
But that's just details; great job! I was wondering about the spindle here... did you design and lathe the HSK spindle by yourself or buy an off the shelves HSK adapter? From the single screw it might seem viable to use a stepper to torque it down? I dunno, it's hard to see without a design, but I'd like to see more about that.
I also like how you used set screws solution for the rails. I'm not sure if it's better than lapping the rails upside down in a vise, but it seems pretty viable. Did you make all of these yourself?
Thank you..
Great job!
This Machine is so komplex,incredible.
Thank you.
Extremely impressive!!! It is amazing how much thought you put into what you did. And the aesthetics of your build are also quite amazing. Very functional and beautiful at the same time. The pride you put into your work is quite obvious.
Thank you very much for the kind words :-)
Outstanding work, on both the video and the machine,
Thank you so much :-)
Bonjour, bravo pour votre machine, une véritable bête !
Very nice machine, well done. Interesting design with moving the complete portal as Z axis. I don't see this often in diy machines.
Thank you :-) I've never really understood why so many hobby builders usually build it the other way around. Ok, there is more mass to move, but it is much stiffer and easier to build
@@9voltprojects True, depends a little bit on the aspect ratio of the machine and if it is a traveling gantry or bed but for your machine it looks very fitting.
Excellent build! We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎
Thank you, I am very honored :-)
That’s a beautiful and capable machine you’ve built 👍
Thank you 🙂
That machine is magnificent! Really spectacular! I'd love to build something similar in the future. Good job and thanks for sharing! :)
Thank you so much :)
Diese CNC ist so die BESTE welche ich bisher auf RUclips gefunden habe!!!!!!! Wenn es dafür eine Bauanleitung geben würde…….. :-). 🙏
Das ist kein HOBBY - das ist 100% Engineering 👍
Ich habe den Kanal sofort abonniert :-)
Danke, danke.. Ja, da stecken einige Stunden intensivster Gehirnzermarterung drinnen 😉 CAD-Dateien gibt's leider nicht.
This machine is so crazy.... very good job!!!!!
Thank you a lot 🙂
Wow, wirklich beeindruckend was du alles in eigen Regie entwickelt und auch umgesetzt hast! Ein tolles universelles Werkzeug, durchdachtes Design. 👌
Vielen Dank! 🙂
Great work, thanks for sharing!
Wow, great job all around on the machine and the video! The extra carriages you slide onto the X rails for turbing work is a clever solution. I would love to see a video on the mill spindle design.
Thank you very much. I may build a new spindle at the end of the year. Of course I will make a video of it ;-)
This is an amazing machine! I'm excited to see more of your work!
Many thanks for your interest 🙂
Thanks for sharing, the effort you put into this is inspirational. I love the additional slide-on attachments for turning! Something I might have to look into making :) Peace.
Hey, thanks a lot! I'm glad you like my additional slide-on attachments. Let me know when yours are ready for chipping 🙂
This machine is really a Masterpiece. I hope you can make more Vids about it. Especially i am interested in how you made the two Spindles with the Servo Motors, and the hight adjustment of the Linear-Rails.
It's on my to-do list.. Many thanks :)
Absolutely gorgeous work.
Thank you a lot.
Absolutely amazing. I hope one day you can put up the cad, wiring and programming diagram up for sale!
That would be too much stress for me to do business with. I only do it for the joy of doing it :)
Thank you very much..
same here, great design for a compact mill. would be great if you can share / sale cad, no matter the state ) WBR
Hallo, Watch all your films. Love it and hope to see more from you ... Very clever what you have made . Profi made ....
Thank you!
That's incredibly impressive.
Thank you very much :-)
Many Thanks for sharing this it is much appreciated
This was really interesting and the turning setup is brilliant!!
I'm glad you enjoyed it 🙂
Lovely work.
Thank you :)
Wow! Amazing job.
Thank you.
Very cool you used hsk on the milling spindle.
I love it. It makes every tool change a pleasure.
This is amazing What a beautiful machine you've made! Im jealous of your knowledge and persistence in not only trying but also completing a project like this.... in your kitchen!
I would never want to admit that I didn't make it. So I'm always condemned to success ;-) Thank you a lot.
GBWM sent me. Awesome content man, very nice build.
Thank you a lot :-)
Amazing dude, way to go!
Alter Schwede was für ein geiles Teil!
Vielen Dank! 😉
Nice work! Really a good mechanical design! 👍
Thank you :)
A video about turning spindle construction please!. Impresive job! good work :)
..is planned 😉
So amazing would you share the 3d model. I’m working on a tools and the parts that you are using would help a lot. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and taking the time to do this video. Absolutely amazing.
Thank you for your interest. Sorry, I do not share my Cad models
Amazing machine! So much work in it. I'm not sure how you program the turning but you might want a tool holder interface that constrains in 3 dimensions so you can maintain tool offsets. If you made a capto holder and used capto lathe tools, you wouldn't need to reset the z offset with each tool change.
Yes, you are right. But setting up a new tool is no big deal. Before I would build something like that, I have other little things on my wish list 😉
@9voltprojects Fair enough. I do quite a bit of turning on my mill. I have a stick tool block and have found this a hurdle so am mid way through building a capto 4 based block that should make tool changes a lot quicker. The list is always too long!
Great job!! Are you planning to open source the project or sell the CAD files and BOM for DIY?
Thank you..
I think anyone with good metalworking skills doesn't need a construction plan or CAD files from me. I've also just copied most of the things from the big boys in the business.
Less experienced hobbyists I would advise to start with a smaller project.
Very clean build. Nice one
Thank You.
What do you feel is the advantage, or disadvantages, of having the Z axis rails on the support pillars (also supporting the X axis)? Your Z stepper will have to do more work, the X steppers less, compared to a typical CNC router. At first I thought this was a CNC router but when looking at the details I said, no this is a mill. A very interesting design.
In my view, the advantages of this design outweigh the disadvantages. The decisive reason for me is the higher rigidity due to the better lever ratios. The lower the working height, the stiffer the working conditions. Of course, the Z-Stepper has to move the entire weight (50 kg). But this is also an advantage because the z-axis is always preloaded. Only the dynnamics is affected by this, of course.
@@9voltprojects
What's your rapid- and acceleration settings if I may ask?
The rapid speed is 2m/min!
Unfortunately, I don't know the actual acceleration values. The acceleration ramps are generated in the FPGA by up/down counters preloaded with values. These values then determine the steepness of the acceleration ramps. I then tested different steep ramps in experiments, so that step losses are excluded. But I have never calculated the resulting acceleration values. Thank you for your question! :)
Vraiment impressionant tres beau boulot felicitation🙏👌
merci beaucoup
Sehr beeindruckend Chris!
Vielen lieben Dank!
Beautiful machine, can you share the spindle servo model and the pulley/belt size. Thanks 🙏🏽
I have specified the servo model in the “Specification” chapter 😉 The belt is a HTD. More information will be available soon in a following video.
A well executed project! Very impressive that you created all custom electronics (with an FPGA) and wrote all the embedded software.
One suggestion regarding terminology is that 'Borders' could probably be replaced 'Boundaries', if you ever plan to open source or share your firmware. But of course, whatever conveys the information works for a personal project 😂
I had been looking for the right term while programming. I had thought about fences and borders, but both felt wrong somehow. Yep, boundaries ;-) A bit too long for my display, but let's see... Thank you very much!
@@9voltprojects Even 'Bounds' & 'Left /Right Bound' might suffice ;-)
I am surprised you get deviation in the straightness of linear rails this thick..I always thought these were ruler straight
We use the miniature MGN12C rails a lot in our products. Can’t imagine the deviation in these tiny rails…I think I would have to devise a method of correction..
Thanks for posting the video btw
This is nothing unusual and happens during the production of the rails, regardless of the size of the rails or the manufacturer. The error can be compensated for by mounting the rails against a reference stop edge in the machine bed. This stop edge must first be milled/ground in the machine bed. This is explicitly pointed out in the manufacturer's application manuals, at least by the premium manufacturers. As I cannot machine such a high-precision stop edge, I had to come up with something else.
ruclips.net/video/QeP8l_hgdT0/видео.html
Thank you so much or sharing this video. I must say what you have created and built is a masterpiece Mill-Turn machine (one of a kind) in the DIY hobby space.
I also have a background in Electronics and like you I am able to understand Mechnical pricipals relatively easily and been keen to build my own machine and learning how to use Fusion 360 for producing the CAD design. But having no access to a reasonably rigid cnc, to mill the parts. I see you showed pics of your first cnc built using aluminium extrusions, and I would like to know what was the workarea of that machine and did it mill all the aluminium parts that went into building this awesome piece of engineering?
I would like to build a basic machine and did some research and found there are various different types of profiles offered by Motedis such as I-Type slot 5,6,8 and B-Type 6,8,10. What type of profiles would you recommend?
Thank you very much!
To be honest, I can't remember the exact working area of my first machine. I hadn't made a 3D model. I think the working area was approx. 330x230mm.
I can't really recommend extruded aluminum profiles. At first glance, a construction with them looks temptingly simple. These profiles are not dimensionally accurate and you will encounter problems when aligning the axles. Another problem is that the parts cannot be joined together with sufficient rigidity. It may be that some people see it differently. But that is my experience.
If you still want to use them, then take the ones with the thickest wall thickness and the largest cross-section.
Good luck and have fun building!
@@9voltprojects I agree with everything you have mentioned and will keep in mind about choosing a profile that has the thickest possible wall thickness and the largest cross-section area. Will keep you in the loop. If I have any question along the my cnc journey then if you don't mind I will be in touch again. :)
Congratulations on your machine and the effort you’ve put into it.
I am currently beginning to design my own machine, primarily for milling aluminum and plastics. I am interested to know what type of ball screw you used in the construction. Is the lead 5 mm or 10 mm? What is the precision class-C3, C5, or C7? Did you use higher-quality Chinese components, or a more well-known brand? Also, what torque do the stepper motors have? Lastly, what repeatability, precision can you achieve with it?
Thank you in advance for your response!
Best regards,
Daniel
The ball screws I use are from Isel. They are manufactured in Germany, but are of low-cost quality. They are rolled and in tolerance class C7. The pitch is 4mm for X and Y and 5mm for Z.
In terms of accuracy, they are not bad at all. Unfortunately, they are not preloaded, which is why I would like to replace them one day.
I haven't installed any Chinese parts except the guide rail for my sliding door 😉 The stepper have a torque of 2NM.
Good luck with your construction..
Hola, gran proyecto! ejecución impecable. Felicitaciones
Muchas Gracias
very nice achievement
Thank you.
Nice work
Wow! just wow! What a realy cool and nice machine! +1 sub for sure 😎👍
Thank you a lot 😏
wow! super impressive machine! thanks for sharing & weiter so! :)
Danke :)
no tienes instagram ,estaría genial ver tus ideas mas cotidianamente , me salio de pura casualidad tu canal y desde hoy me uno a tus seguidores
Could you release CAD and way you made adjustments for leveling and straightening everything for this masterpiece?!
You do not need a CAD file for the leveling plates/blocks. They consist of 40x30x10mm steel and an m8 leveling screw in each corner. There is a through hole in the middle of the plate for the rail screw. And that's it. The challenge is to get them all at exactly the same height. For this you need a reference, e.g. a granite ruler or something and a very good dial indicator. It took me a week to get it right, so be warned.
The clamps to straighten the rails are very specific to my machine. I don't have a CAD file of them, I made them right out of my head. The rails of my X and Z axis I also straightened with other tools, but that would have been too much for the video. Just build something to bring the force to the point of highest deviation. I was surprised at how easy it is to straighten them.
I noticed for X axis you did not have leveling plate, have you grounded base? Also with leveling plates you need to level everything together, as without central bolt and rail they won’t stay?
I used double-grinded precision steel plates from Meusburger for the bridge of the X-axis and the machine table. That's why I didn't make any further adjustments to the X-axis.
A great Machine! Thanks for sharing with us
I'm interested in more Details about the Spindle design especially bearings, Servodrive and tool change .
Is there any sensor to measure your turning tools or is it manual measure offset like turning by hand ? How do you set the height offset for the turning tool? Have you thought about using a multi fix tool change system for quick change the turning tools?
Thanks 👍 👍 👍
Thank you!
I do not use a sensor for tool measurement when turning. I do it like this: After the first machining pass, I zero the displayed position of the Z-axis. Then I measure the diameter of the workpiece with the micrometer. I then enter the radius as the Z position in my control unit. I can work very precisely this way. Additional measuring sensors would tend to interfere with my workflow. I may be a bit old school in this respect, but I like it that way.
Thanks
I have some more questions 😄
How do you manufacturing all the parts? With your old machine or on an industrial CNC ?
How much time and money did you spend?
Unfortunately, I do not have access to industrial machines. All parts were made on the machine in the intro. Later I made or optimized some parts on my current machine.
Have you considered selling kits for this? I'd love to buy the frame-set and spindle myself. Fantastic work! Subscribed
Sorry, I don't offer kits. I only do it as a hobby.
Thank you very much!
Understood. Have you considered sharing your designs either commercially or under a creative commons license or alternative open source license? I believe your machine would be liked by many others who might improve upon your design and share those improvements as well.
AMAZING!
Thank you!
looks good brotha
Thank you :)
Awesome realisation. I'm surprise you can have that kind of precision with only aluminium frame without vibration. I just wandering what is the need to add additional slider for turning instead of having tool directly attached to the side of the milling spindle. I'm sure there is a reason but I'm only an electronics engineer who love to go outside its confort zone : ).
I was not aware also that you can rigid taping with mach 3 contrôler. Anyway the result is quite amazing
Thank you, I do tapping with my own self build controller ;-)
@@9voltprojects I've seen that and what a side project !! I'm an electronics engineer, and I know what It's like to design stuff that works. (I don't like those FPGA they don't open their minds to debugging easily)
I don't know why I fell in love with CNC and metal work, getting outside my comfort zone.
I'm in the process of building my second CNC. The first one was crappy little thing more like of a router. I don't want to spend too much time on controller so centroid acornsix will be the way.
I was in gantry design with some epoxy granite but after seing your design, I will go your way.
What I love is that the whole Y-axis is moving. It's easily understandable that it will be far more stiff when you machine low-height parts compared to those long plate that overhang.
One thing that I don't understand. The Z ballscrew attachment...Where is that low end fixing block ?
It looks like their is no and that's a really floating side.
The only drawback is the protection of the X rails and ballscrew that will be a little more tricky
Design spindle is also very nice; maybe this is the part that impressed me the most. It solve one of my issues. Having a strong tool changer without using compressed air (I don't need an ATC).
But as I'm not confident enough to try to build a part like that, I'll buy a small and silent compressor, and a Jianken 5.5kw permanent magnet rotor with 3.5Nm with BT30..
I've also see you mixed aluminium and steel to keep it reasonably not too heavy. Is there some point of attention I need to take into account about different thermal expansion between steel and aluminium (for Z lineay rail fixing) or we don't really care ?
@@UPR91 Correct, you should think/care about all the physical relationships when building a machine, including the temperature range and the behavior when using different materials. The higher your requirements in terms of accuracy, the greater the effort. In other words, the greater the temperature fluctuations (day/night) at the installation site, the greater the deviations.
Ball screw spindles do not necessarily have to have a floating bearing. It depends on their length.
@@9voltprojects Thx for the answers. I still have a question as I move forward in the design. How did you square the vertical assembly to the base ? I see some pin to perform an accurate angular the link. Does it fit 90° by precision machining or you squared it and drill after ?
Dit you glue the surface with some kind of epoxy before assembly making the whole stuff more rigid but loosing the possibility to further adjustment of dissassembly ?
Absolutely amazing, really like the Z axis, what cad software are you using please?
Thank you. I use Solid Edge (CE) by Siemens.
good evening and congratulations for your design work, your ideas are excellent, but what is the type of your spindle with the tool changing system ?
Thank you!
All spindles were designed and built by me. The HSK tool change interface is from Gühring.
@@9voltprojects thanks you my friend
Amazing! May I know which Gühring part you used for the HSK-C clamping? Also what kind of bearings did you use for the spindle?
The spindle bearings are from FAG. I still have to look up all the part numbers. I'll do that together in a future video about building another spindle.
Impressive...
This is pretty cool! Love the jog control panel.
Does the lathe spindle perform angular indexing as well?
Thank you!
I'm not sure what exactly is meant by 'angle indexing'. The servo motor has a 17bit encoder and can rotate the spindle to any position (angular steps) of 360°/131072. The servo driver also provides an index signal every 360°, which I use to measure the spindle speed with my controller(FPGA).
@@9voltprojects
Meaning, can the lathe rotate in degrees and lock in position, for the mill to come in and machine a flat surface and then on that flat surface?
For example, say I want machine a hex shape at the end of a rod, and then engrave one of the faces, then rotate, and drill thru another face.
In other words, instead of RPM motion, I get angular rotation with locking in positionn.
@@PaulG.369
The answer is yes and no ;-) It is possible to engrave the radius of a round workpiece, which I have already done. But I can't engrave a flat surface in this way. That would require the turning spindle to be mounted on the machine table or the gantry to be movable in the Y direction (milling view), which is not the case.
Yes, I can drill small holes in a clamped workpiece at any angle. However, this is only possible to a very limited extent because the spindle shaft is driven by a belt and is therefore not absolutely torsionally rigid. A worm gear would be necessary for this. I prefer to do such work on the rotary table.
wish I had friends like you haha
😮
I wonder if you can find some hsk holders that will hold turning tools, if you can lock the mill spindle you could use it for turning.
Yes, that would give me some extra space. But the spindle shaft would have to be able to be fixed absolutely rigidly at the spindle nose. I had no idea how to implement this without making the spindle even bigger and heavier.
@@9voltprojects if it's not achievable electronically with the motor or a brake on the motor then maybe a mechanical pin or an electromagnetic brake/clamp mechanism that engages/clamps into/on the drive pulley of the spindle . There are some limitations to the belted drive rather than direct but a guy with your talents will be able to engineer around it.
@@weldchip
Unfortunately, this is not possible with a brake alone. The resulting forces must be kept away from the spindle bearings. Unfortunately, this makes such spindles very large and heavy (DMG, Mazak etc.)
amazing
Hello, your machine is great, I really take off the hat I'm building a machine but with many limitations I don't have my own workshop to build but I love your machine can I ask some information about your machine...
Thank you 🙂 ..of course you can ask questions.
Fliegt der Spahn in lila-blau, stimmt der Vorschub haargenau :).
😏
Please tell us you have plans for this beauty!
No big plans so far.. I mainly use this machine to make spare parts or to improve appliances for everyday use. Apart from that, the beauty always looks at me when I walk into my kitchen ;-)
Good day. I liked the concept of your CNC machine. I also tried to assemble approximately the same machine in Solidworks, and according to calculations, the height of the Z axis cannot be 280 mm, even in the video you can see that the ball screw of the Z axis hangs much lower than 280 mm. Can you explain this point? 🤨
280mm is the max distance between the table and an locked HSK63 chuck without a tool. Sometimes I wish there were 50mm more..
@@9voltprojects Yes, but you also have a screw under the X axis, which for large workpieces will interfere with movement along the Y axis. Or have you somehow solved this problem?
Моё уважение ❤
Thank you!
Dude you have like a baby DMG Mori turnmill with a grinding head 😭😭
I want one!
😉
Очень аккуратно сделанный станок!
Большое спасибо.
Hallo Chris, klasse Video und super Maschine mit so viel nützlichem Zubehör! Ich habe auch eine CNC-Maschine gebaut und würde bei einer zweiten auch einiges anders machen, z.B. eine vierte Achse einplanen. Ich möchte eine kleine CNC-Drehmaschine bauen und dafür würde mir als Spindel so etwas wie deine 4. Achse vollkommen ausreichen. Leider kann ich mit meiner CNC-Fräse so ein Spindelgehäuse nicht aus einem Block herstellen. Evtl. könnte ich das Gehäuse aus mehreren z.B. 30mm Alu-Platten fertigen. Habe ich das richtig verstanden, dass Du die Spindel selbst gebaut hast? Wie hast Du die gefertigt? Dafür braucht man doch eine präzise Drehmaschine damit die Passungen für die Lager stimmen. Vielleicht hast Du ja Lust zu deiner 4. Achse ein Video zu erstellen!? Ich denke, dass würde viel Hobbyfräsenbauer interessieren. VG Anton
Hallo Anton, ich werde zukünftig einige Videos über den Bau von Spindeln veröffentlichen. Das wird allerdings noch etwas dauern. Einige Deiner Fragen werden dann in den Videos beantwortet. Vielen Dank für Dein Interesse und schau einfach von Zeit zu Zeit mal wieder vorbei!
@@9voltprojects Hallo Chris kannst Du einen Link zur Spindelpatrone - also dem Stahlteil in deiner 4. Achse angeben? Das ist doch ein Kaufteil? VG Anton
6:41 Is that a Garant 203014? Those are pretty good we also use a lot of them
Correct - Unbelievable ;-) Here in 8mm, they cut very nicely..
非常牛逼，非常感谢您的介绍。
感谢您的关注 😉
Hi! Yoa have overheated endmill when you cutting the steel. You need cooling!
Yes, you're right. This cutter should be cooled ;-)
Wow great job! Did you make your spindle by your self?
Thank you and yes, both were built on my machine in the video
@@9voltprojects Did you have a grinding process? What is the runout, and what rpm are they capable of? I really appreciate what you have done!
At 2:38, how do you measure the straightness of the rail ?
With a straight reference and a high-resolution dial gauge.
Sehr geil
Danke :-)
super👍
カッコえぇえ！！！
ありがとうございました。;-)
hello ! Which steel did you use in this machine? stainless steel?
The steel parts are all made from different types of steel. No stainless!
Can you tell me where you bought the spindle head of the machine?
The HSK-Clamping-Adapter is from Gühring. You can find them in their webshop.
@@9voltprojects I mean the connection from the main shaft through the Holder
The flange and the clamping cylinder belong together. There are similar systems from other manufacturers, e.g. Mapal, Röhm
its cutting steel better than my 800kg manual milling machine :D
In the demo, this was also only an 8 mm end mill. And admittedly, the steel was not that hard/strong (C45) ;-) Thank you!
My mill is 50yo, really abused and screams for restoration. Chatter like hell and brake or chip endmils at every possible chance she have 😅
just Wow
Geile Maschine
Dank Dir!
Das Ding würde sich wie Butter verkaufen
😉