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Michael Peterson
Добавлен 23 июл 2015
Видео
Haas Spindle Bearing Replacement Part2
Просмотров 13 тыс.5 лет назад
Haas VF2 SS 12,000 RPM Spindle Show you the inside of a Haas Spindle Cartridge and how to replace the spindle bearings
Haas Spindle Bearing Replacement Part1
Просмотров 41 тыс.5 лет назад
Haas VF2 SS 12,000 RPM Spindle Show you the inside of a Haas Spindle Cartridge and how to replace the spindle bearings
I like your video, but you failed to explain the most critical part of this process... the proper mounting of the matched set of the angular contact spindle bearings. There is a reason why professional service technicians are paid what they are paid, because they know these things. Secondly, machine tool manufacturers sell these spindle cartridges as complete assemblies, because they are balanced after assembly at the factory. Finally, shims are used by FST's who don't understand how to tram the column.
The spindle needs to align where it's mounted. It needs to be parallel to the z axis and perpendicular to the x & y. You aren't supposed to shift the z-rails off vertical to compensate for the mating surface that mounts the spindle - unless you want to cut diagonal vertical lines. No one going to warp their column or do some other extreme measure like trying to resurface the mating surface for something that every guide says to use shims to accomplish. There's not a single machine in this aerospace machine shop that doesn't have a manufacturer guide saying to use shims to align the spindle at the mating surface if needed, including a 5-axis machine. Your comment doesn't make _the FST's_ seem ignorant...
i was quoted $14000 do have my VF4 spindle replaced, so I decided to do it myself, and save the $$$, maybe 10hrs of my labour, and $300 for 4 bearings, and it runs great!
I have high pitch noise on my spindle do you think bearing is the problem here?
Spindle Motor bearing noise not spindle bearing noise…got it! Thanks 🙏🏻
please tell me the reference of bearing you used, i see that is NSK. But the reference please.
The oil port doesn’t lubricate the drawbar. It is packed with grease and TSC often leaks in and corrodes the drawbar. The oil/air port only lubes the spindle bearings.
Sir can u help me about this how can i pullout the coupler from spindle shafting pls help me sir the spindle that i replace bearing is same to youre demo haas cnc spindle is very hard to me to pullout the coupler drive thanks sir
I use a torch to gently heat it all the while putting tension on it with a gear puller. When it get warm enough to expand it should literally pop off due to the gear puller slightly compressing the draw bar.
As of November 2001 you can buy that push out collar from CNC replacement parts online. The drawbar on the spindle is an amazingly good condition save for the need to run through a solvent tank a couple times. I've had good luck replacing the Belleville washers on the spindle draw bars. There's about $60 worth of washers in a draw bar versus 4 to $900 for a new one depending on your spindle.
Hi, can you please tell me the reference of bearing you used, i see that is NSK. But the reference please.
They don't want you opening it up because then you'd see how easy it was to fix and how they were ripping you off. There is significantly less magic inside a spindle than some think. They are usually far less impressive than their price would suggest. Those pins broke because it was poorly made. They keep the myth going so they can charge $1000+ to install $300 bearings. Anyone with a press and 30 minutes can replace bearings, fans, spacers etc. Anyone with a decent CNC lathe could make their own spindle shaft too.
good morning Michael from the uk could you tell me where you got your new drawbar from as when i contacted haas the dont supply them separately thank you
haas quoted $15,000 for new spindle hens y i just need a new drawbar
@@filipszymanski6255 You rebuild the old one with new belleville washers. I get mine from Mc Master Carr.
Nice tutorial!! Do you have the bearings numbers or size?
I have done the same procedure as you have but now getting a loud knock when doing tool unclamp . Did you also have to readjust that after fitting the spindle ?
You shouldn't have to. As long as you installed the threaded pins in the draw bar properly and are snug, there shouldn't really be any adjustment needed.
The preload pressure on the drawbar is too low. The air regulator for this is inside the spindle cover. I think it should be around 15 psi.
Why you are not giving the bearing codes lower bearings 7012
moron
Wow, you took a part that failed due to fracturing and rather than make a new one you spun it around, stuck a new hole in it and reused it, and in a high speed application? Then you say you did "what any machine shop owner would do"? You are a disgrace to the trade.... Then your cheap ass buys bearing off of Ebay not knowing the class, just the number. Then you go on about having to rebuild other spindles, I can see why! Now that you will have an out of balance condition you will kill those new bearings in no time, not to mention crap surface finish. You claim 1/2-20 is a non standard "Funky" thread and you don't have a tap? That is the standard for imperial fine! I guess you have never heard of the "high cost of being cheap"?
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. Another valuable piece of info gathered for my upcoming cartridge rebuild
They charge you 6000 dollars for the entire cartdridge because it's assembled in a clean enviroment with lots of care. This is not a job you can do in your shop the way you did it and expect the same results. I suggest the video about spindle bearings that Robin Renzetti uploaded to his channel. You'll see a difference or two between both ways.
In before "This is not a user serviceable component, please contact your local Haas Factory Outlet for service or replacement"
We re-worked a SM ATC gearbox on our Super Mini, after finding out that it's also 4k +core for a replacement, and that it's replacement only, no repairs. Was a pain to pull and drop the carousel, but all together not that bad. Ordered a new needle bearing for $50 that was a direct replacement and polished out where the old bearing had backed out and rubbed against the cam way floor. That was almost 5 years ago. That machine is still in production, and while there's been a couple more issues with the ATC, none of them have been the gearbox.
100th subscriber!!!
My VF2SSYT is brand new and has a weird harmonic around 9-12k. I have a 15k spindle.
To those that want a bearing number. I will not post my numbers becuz they are very expensive... and if the bearing are different from one to another... I dont want someone to be out. Basically... pull it apart and read the correct numbers off your bearing. Any bearing shop can cross them.
Hey Michael, I've contacted the OEM for the bearings with the bearing number and was advised they are proprietary and cannot be sold. Where did you purchase your bearings from? From a 1996 Haas VF3.
CAN YOU PLEASE ADD PART NUMBERS FOR BEARINGS?? GOOD VIDEO AND WILL BE VERY HELPFUL WHEN REPLACING BEARINGS IN MY MACHINE. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE.
Can you share the bearing #
Hi Michael, what are the bearing numbers you used? Do you think they would be the same on a 6000 RPM spindle that uses grease? Thanks!
What were the bearing part numbers?
What a bunch of assholes at haas to not sell you that drawbar collar. Its like they want you to fail.
Good day, we have the same problem on our vf-2SSHE. Could You please PM me photos of upper bearing (or any other photos of that motor)?
You not mensen how to rimu Frant bering
Can you go a bit into depth about the preloading of the bearings? Maybe make a video about it? I have a machine with the same spindle bearings and judging by the slight increasing noise from the spindle I think I have the same operation ahead of me. The replacement spindle is roughly the same price as yours so I will probably take it apart and at least try to fix it :)
When I bought the bearings from a bearing company, they can tell what the pre-load should be. I dont have the equipment to "load" them or check the load, so I just pressed them so they roll snug. It's all back yard mechanics, but it works. The first bearings i did a couple years back, i pressed too much load on them. They created alot of heat. Ultimately i did raid it apart and re-loaded the bearings but they only lasted 6 months. The second set I did on that machine are still running. Been about 2 years and still sound good. I was told when loading them, your spindle should have a little resistance. Should spin roughly one turn before stopping freely.
When you specify bearing number(full) it already has a predefined preload. Preload of those bearings is defined by thickness difference between inner and outer rings, so if you install them correctly and tighten a nut or fit a press-fit ring preload sets itself by micrometer gap between inner rings
1 spin
What about the balancing of the drawbar pushing collar thing, when it has a huge piece missing?
To be honest, rolling the dice. Aside of making a new one, it's all I could do at the moment. I figure I could change the bearings roughly 4 to 6 times to equal a factory new one. Thus far has been cutting and running fine.
is this the same one you swapped out the bearings on in the last video? hope you get sorted dude
This was actually the bearings of the electric spindle motor. Took the motor off and replaced bearings. All good now. Have new bearings in spindle cartridge and spindle motor.
Update please :)
Video is coming
hi sir iam from india .I want know the bearing sizes for the spindle please
I am super interested in this. I just bought a 95 VF3 and I know nothing about it. (check out my channel if your curious) I am learning about spindles now in case I have to replace it. How do you get that pressed nut off?
Press it off. I think one was a puller, but if you can get a bearing clamp under it, a press can get it all off. Putting it back together, I bought some round tubing stock to make sure I pressed on the inner race.