GMT400 Rear Disc Brake Conversion (Part 2)
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- This is (Episode 8) of the #ETCGDadsTruck Series.
Link to (Episode 7 [Part 1] of this series): • GMT400 Rear Disc Brake...
Episode 9: • Test Drive & Tying Up ...
GMT400 Rear Disc Brake Conversion (Full/Extended Version): www.ericthecar...
Here is (Part 2) and the conclusion of the rear disc brake conversion on my 1990 C1500 truck, which is a GMT400. GMT400’s ran from 1988-1998.
In this episode I cover the installation of the new “firm feel” master cylinder. I also show you how to perform an ABS Delete on one of these trucks. In addition, I cover the parking brake set up and how to deal with some of the issues that might come up.
Camera: Brian Kast, Eric Cook
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Thanks for watching!
Parts
SSBC Rear Disc Brake Conversion Kit: www.summitraci...
Russell Steel Braided Brake Lines: www.summitraci...
RT Side Parking Brake Cable: www.1aauto.com...
L Side Parking Brake Cable: www.1aauto.com...
Tools
Eastwood Line Flare Tool: www.eastwood.c...
Tubing Cutter: www.jbtoolsale...
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Rear Disc Brake Conversion (the hard way) Ford Fox Body: • Installing Rear Disc B...
How To Fabricate Parking Brake Cables: • How To Fabricate Parki...
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Introduction to #ETCGDadsTruck Build (Episode 1): • #ETCGDadsTruck Build I...
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ETCG Gets a Truck: • ETCG Gets a Truck!
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"Oh the oxygen sensor just broke off, guess I'll have to replace the engine..." XD It's funny as long as you don't hear that from your mechanic...
Real mekanix break something while fixing something else ahaha
or the "some minor bending may be needed" comment at 14:05
This series is making me miss my 97 c1500. Good truck.
I love your humor AND the fact that you present the real world difficulties of working on cars. Doesn’t make us feel so bad when it happens to us. You’re the best! Thank you
Top tip to remove ads. Slide bar to the end then back to the beginning 👍genius 😇
Or just use Adblock duhhhh
Or allow the creator to make a living. 👍
Or get a Premium Membership to EricTheCarGuy.com where you can watch this video in it's entirety with no ads as well as a couple hundred other exclusive videos. www.ericthecarguy.com/premium-content-streaming-etcg-content
EricTheCarGuy perfect response some people don't understand ads are what brings in the money 😀
Master cylinder worked wonders on my 96 with drums. Thanks for the entertainment Eric!
Do you remember the part number of the Master cylinder?
"Just put it in the slot and spin it, and hang onto it" applies to many aspects of life; a lot of good quotes in this video.
Don't you love working on brakes?
After days of being covered in brake fluid, running laps around the car to bleed, you end up just saying "I think its a little better... Screw it, I'm done!"
"Just put it in the slot and spin it - and hang onto it."
Wise words...but context is important when quoting ETCG.
Havent even watched yet and liked it just because of the awkward hi at the beginning lol
Please start every video like this @ericthecarguy
That awkward hi is from sarah n' tuned
This is cool, and at 35:22 saved me the trouble, "You can just stick with what you have and recondition it" I think I'll do that, lol
How many times has everyone flared a brake line without the fitting on it?? I have plenty of times
Hopefully you only do it once, but it took me more than once and I still forget sometimes.
What he said lol
Thanks for all the montage reminder of all the "fun" brake bleeds that my dad and I have done together. Also, parking brake cable is a $10 part, and probably needed to be replaced anyway. They stretch over time.
Glad to see i'm not the only that thinks the correct way to repair a broken o2 sensor is to rebuild or replace the engine. I had broken the oil pressure sending unit once and decided that a complete rebuild was the best way.....
The hole on top of the caliper is where the parking brake line goes through
But i still enjoyed the video, also I'm sure thats for other models that doesn't have the e brake line coming from the top at a weird angle
Many on a Lincolin, but not on this truck.
@@ericthecarguy I think JB is right. if you look at the footage at 30:44 the parking brake cable appears to be in perfect alignment with the hole on the caliper. Maybe I'm wrong...its hard to see it from here in my easy chair, but check the footage and you will see what I am looking at.
@@davemall1 I have to agree with you. Its painfully obvious.
Yeah its supposed to go through that hole for sure
Not going to lie i have spent about 4 days just watching these videos
I have a 91 Silverado extended cab 4x4 short box.. To date best truck I own. All I did was over adjust the back brakes and un plug the rear anti lock module. But how I got all the air out was to pump dot 3 from the bottom up about a quart per side saw the smallest of bubbles and that got me some of the firmest brakes I have ever seen on these trucks. To be completely honest I got lucky nothing more or less. I have used that kit for disc in the back it holds up well especially with the salt/brine they use on Ontario roads. The kit that I like uses Gm calipers from an 80's front wheel drive diesel Cadillac they work great.
Understand on some vehicles, especially these GM's, that can be the last hurrah to get rid of some, or up to all, of the spongy pedal. I looked up how the manufacturer does it and they use, yes unobtainable to us, a system that pulls a vacuum on the brake system before installing the fluid. Side story, Did a 78 trans am front disc brake conversion on 1970 cutlass, with station wagon rear drum set up, for a great braking system on it. Did the tall spindle conversion and it handled and braked exceptional well, especially considering most everything was from salvage yard, back some 35 years ago at that. Big shout out to Eric for making it real, letting us see from a different view while he dives into the realities of what can go wrong and how to try and figure a remedy as well as fill in for having a shop to hang out at like I did in younger days. Also, glad to read the comments of those with positive input and experience on alternative methods. Old diesel Caddy calipers, new one on me!!!
“ so it is under spring pressure” Spring Pops out 😂
Camera Man Brian... The only camera man who has "brake bleeding" on his resume!
Thanks for the video @ericthecarguy I have been weighing my options on doing this to my 1990 4WD. One of those options is to find a good used 3/4 ton rear end with disc brakes. The other is to basically do what you have done. After watching your videos, I believe I will go junkyard hopping. However, I do understand the frustration with the soft pedal feel.
Drums can be made to work just fine. Thumbs up......
Using a hose clamp to release the tabs on the parking brake cable was pure genius!
I came up with that idea once and was quite proud of myself. I'm sure I'm not the first one to think of it though. I suggested it to Eric on a previous video and he said he was aware of that method if I remember correctly. Still cool to see though.
@@jonclark1288 You sir are a genius as well. Every now and then I have an idea like that and wonder why it took me so long to figure out the easy way to do it.
I bought my 1998 GMC (GMT400) used, I too didn't like the break pedal feel, the first gas station I took it to did some adjusting on it and made it 'better' but still felt soft but never went to the floor soft, he also said for a couple of years GM puck up truck breaks felt that way. Not before or after but for a couple of model years and I just got 'lucky' when I bought it.
A few years later I had moved t a new location and found a new mechanic that was recommend to me from work friends. They are as honest as the day is long, I finally got around to having new break pads on, when they got to the right rear wheel, they called me over to see what they found, 😱 some of the hardware had been installed wrong. I trust their word because they have done a lot of other work for me and haven't screwed me over. Bottom line on the drum breaks is they still have a 'soft' feel but if I have to apply a lot of pressure to it, it gets a solid feel at about half pedal.
Eric, I'm curious if you ever solved the spongy brake problem. Seems to be a common problem with the gmt400 series with vacuum boosters. I have a 98 gmc k2500 (sierra) with the same problem. I replaced just about every compoment (calipers, flex hoses, entire disc/drum components, etc.) imaginable minus the steel brake lines. I've also upgraded to different MC's (x4) last of which was a MC for the new body style. Breaking scares the hell out of me. I've bled and bled and bled to no avail. I've also bench bled the MC and also cracked the lines at the MC once installed...no difference. I have ABS and have also (manually) bled at the ABS module via other YT videos on how to do that. The only thing I haven't tried was having the dealer bleed the ABS module via a scanner, but I'm skeptical. People tell me, "Oh, well that's just how Chevy's are." I doubt it. I'm sure they didn't come off the assembly line like that. Let me know what you think.
I have that same issue. Did you ever find a fix?
I did an ABS elimination on a friends 96 Tahoe. I ripped out the nonfunctional and rather expensive, Keysey Hayes ABS and replaced it with a GM "Combination Valve", from an 86 truck from a salvage yard. If you do this, make sure to cut the lines, as you will need the fittings. Line size is the same, the fittings are not. Mounted it under the master cylinder, and the brakes worked very well. Not to a hard to do, you will need to cut and flair some brake lines though.
you could do those rear drum's 5 times over for the price/ and in like a half hour per time (unless you need backing plates(then just might as well rebuild the engine while your at it) saving those old brake lines without a single kink made this worth watching
I have a 96 halfton with 5.7. I deleted the ABS and swapped to the NBS master cylinder and that alone makes your pedal feel like a rock, so much better
Did you put the same master cilinder Or One from the video ? let me know I would like to get a New master cilinder and y How to ask for it when I go to buy it
In my opinion, gathered from my experience driving vehicles of that era, the ABS system was more dangerous than the problem it was supposed to cure.
Sliding through an intersection(in the middle of summer, i.e. no ice) because the road had a few bumps that tricked the ABS, was scary. I was lucky several times that I did not collide with other vehicles. Fortunately they made ABS better a few years later.
My 98 Sierra about got me killed because of the ABS. I dont like ABS. Drove vehicles for decades without it. I was going down hill on gravel road pulling my boat, went to stop at bottom crossroad and the ABS kicked in....no brakes. Ended up stopping by easing into the parking brake.
I'm pretty sure that the end of the parking brake should go through the circular hole on the top side of the rear brake calliper.
If it were installed on a Lincolin, where these calipers came from, yes. But since they are on this truck, they use the supplied brackets.
C/K trucks were designed to have a softened brake pedal feel. I guess the thinking was to provide the operator with more control during normal drivinv. And also so that the ABS (being a relatively new feature at the time) would only activate in an emergency situation.
Personally, I prefer a firm brake pedal feel too, but I've owned several GM 1/2-3/4 ton trucks over the years and I guess that's just how they are.
I feel the same way as i've owned a 91 and 92 c1500. I remember going from my Silverado's to my s10's and nearly throwing myself through the windshield the first couple times i hit the brakes.
Thank you. I was wanting to upgrade my s10 master cylinder so i could have a master with the twist on cap and better brakes the cap would make it easier to pressure bleed but did not know the circuits could be reversed in some master cylinders. Love your videos I have been watching your videos for many years thanks.
I have a 1997 c1500 that I replaced all the hardware, brake shoes and cylinders on the rear drum brakes then vacuum bleed all four corners and ended up going from a spongy brake pedal to a solid brake pedal.
the spot where you put grease on the cable 34:30 on my truck there was a plastic snap in bushing I've found them at regular hardware stores before can't remember the name of them.
Dam I’m getting old, I remember watching Eric back when he had a few thousand subs black hair and no beard
OMG, after watching, think I will just live with the spongy brakes. Fun to watch, not sure it would be fun to do.
Awesome video Eric! Really like where your heading with your channel. 👍🏽🤟🏽
I know I'm two years late, but I found that disabling the ABS on my 95 suburban was really easy - just damage a wheel speed sensor cable, bam, gone. The 4wd suburbans like mine come with 11" drums in the rear, and after flushing the system with fresh fluid and going over them, the pedal feel is actually not bad.
Great tip for clamps if you have a double ended reversible screw driver you can take the bit out and your the shaft for the clamp head bolt
Top quality video and content. I think your one of a handful of mechanics making how to car videos that actually wears gloves. Ps. Dont diminish your value and self worth by using self deprecating humor. You have intention and a clear path of your purpose. ✌️
That was pretty cool.. Now I'm going to jump on over to the SMA channel to check out the O man,
"I'm gonna get the hacksaw and make it happen." 😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣
ikr XD
excellent patience
for those of you looking for a cheaper alternative and possibly a better one. look up LittleShopMFG. they make a a few disc brake kits for these trucks including rear disc conversions.
I could see you were struggling there Eric but it was your first pass. Sleep on it and anything that bothers you can be fixed next oil change. Maybe that adjustment sleeve could be cut and an extension sleeve welded on to give you some more adjustment. Cheers.
Did front disc coversion kit on my Chevelle they said everything needed for complete swap. They lied lol.
Your a great son doing this for your papa!!! Many blessings to you brother!!! Very good mechanic!!
"Long even strokes" 🤣
Loving this series brother
Time to do an Eric The Music Video Guy.... smoke effects will fit right in. Another great vid.. Best to you and yours.
Now would be a good time to invest in some line wrenches. Either Crows Feet (My preferred) or spanners. I'm digging this series, as I've owned a dozen GMT400 Chevy's/GMC's in my days. My 92's brake pedal is stout with the rear anti-lock system in tact, but my later all wheel ABS 1995 has the dreaded spongy pedal. Thanks for all you bring to the table Eric! Zip~
I did use a line wrench. store.snapon.com/Open-End-and-Flare-Nut-mm-5pc-6-Point-Open-End-Flare-Nut-Metric-Wrench-Set-10-mm-14-mm--P630777.aspx
Thanks for the comment.
I feel your pain w/ the damnable Summit Kit hassles. You usually have what's necessary to get the job done, but there always seems to be a stumbling block somewhere in the procedure/process, which, of course, leaves you to your own devices to make things work. Nice improvisation on the E brake assembly. Get 'er done! lol I've been struggling w/ my '02 Blazer, after finding a local "mechanic" help my paraplegic a$$ R&R the trans that died during a road trip, only to have that mechanic get arrested, leaving me to piece things back together, w/o the benefit of having been involved in any of the disassembly. Four months later and I should get it running again this weekend. My hands may look like a road map of greasy cracks for the next few weeks, as I slowly work the grime out of the callous. Stay greasy.
Sorry to hear about your troubles. I hope you overcome them soon.
As for the kit, Summit didn't make the kit, SSBC made the brake kit.
I'm a simple man. I see an EricTheCarGuy video, I click.
And I appreciate it!
I like to bleed brakes starting with rear passenger then driver side rear then passenger front then driver front haven't tried the x direction like your doing in the video Eric
Great vid Eric. I wont say I told you so.
Nicely done, sir.
Awesome install video.
Thank you for your video very informative as always!
Black ties have more than UV protection (of course, if that's stated on the package, but color code means they are UV protected), they also have the chemical disposition to last freeze to heat cycles better. You can actually feel this if you take a pair of nippers to both the cheapo stuff and a better quality one in the way they "crunch". Of course, all this is written on the package, so that's where one has to refer to. I've had black ones snap on my on installation because it was that goddamn cold outside.
I love it Eric Good Job!
Great video Eric
very informative, AND had me laughing out loud. FANTASTIC VIDEO!
Greetings Eric, I commented on part one about using this exact same kit and the prop valve. I initially did the conversion to the prop valve like the instructions stated and still had a soft pedal. I put the old parts back in and my brake pedal is very firm. Hope this helps.
Hi Eric! You are not fat, just big boned guy 🙂
switched my 4wd GMT 400 from 1500 to 3500 axles front and back. did like u said in the end of the video and just bought a rear axle off a newer truck with disc brakes already equipped for about $250, and replaced all the brake parts which ended up costing about $300. so for about $550 I have a rear disc break set up with bigger calipers and heavier rotors and I can confirm that the pedal still feels like crap. Haven't messed with any abs or master cylinder parts yet... truck stops great I can lock up all 4 wheels but the pedal just kind of squishes around...
Love the part that was the blooper reel.
another great video.🤘🤘few things that might help get a better pedal... ...the booster pushrod to master cylinder clearance probably needs to be adjusted. You dont want more than.020" clearance between the two.too much clearance makes the pedal feel soft. Going to a different style master almost alwyas requires adjustment. Good news is that it can be adjusted without removing lines from the master. Unbolt master, slide it forward and adjust the threaded rod on the booster pushrod. I turn it out a couple turns and slide the master back on until there is interference. Then screw back in a 1/4 turn at a time until master seats without touching the pushrod. Vehicles with rear drums have residual valves to maintain a little pressure in the line so the shoes dont fully retract. Not sure if ABS vehicles still used them but they dont play nice with calipers. Last thing...could be the camera angle but it looks like even the new bleeder screw isnt high enough. May need to remove the caliper or tilt it to make sure the bleeder is the highest point. If not a little bubble of air will remain in the caliper and the pedal will never feel firm.
There will be a follow up video next week. Since the new master cylinder is also for later models of this truck that use the same booster, adjustment isn't necessary. You have to be very careful adjusting the pushrod. If you get it too tight, you can burn up the brakes or lock them up because of excess heat. Ask me how I know.
I got the best results after I replaced the front brake hose with steel braided units. I also replaced the front rotors and pads. Great pedal feel and it stops on a dime.
@@ericthecarguy i have made a few masters cylinders drag the brakes over the years myself. Sux when you spend hours tuning trying improve off- idle performance and discover the brakes are dragging. Looking forward to the next video.
Ok Eric, we get it.... YOU VAPE. Cool story bro! 23:18
NICOPP BRAKE LINE! get you some.
I've never had issues with drum brakes on my vintage cars.. But then again, i don't drive them like i stole it. But i guess it's nice to have conversion kits so if you can't find replacement parts anymore then it's nice to have something instead of nothing.
Downside is you have to buy disk brake pads for a Lincoln you dont have lol you will have to write it down so you dont forget
28:03 to 28:15 had me crying from laughter! I've had those days it's just a part of growing up.
Nice video as usual, little bit concerned about the bend in the brake line that you did on the vice, I thought that you had a set of brake bending pliers?
With the parking brakes it looks like it might be worth cutting off that little bit of metal with the hole on the top of the calipers, I'm pretty sure that's only there to hang the calipers when you're doing service work... That might allow the cables to run a bit more freely.
I'm really enjoying this build!
Kinda cringed on that part too :/
Otherwise it's a great tutorial.
Everything works fine without issue. Thank you for your input.
Yes getting rid of the ABS makes for a better brake pedal. Couldn't get fluid to the rear of my 89, bypassed the ABS and got fluid. Much better pedal feel and the truck stops on a dime.
5-6am _SQUAD_
Eric why did you put the fitting in the back and swap the lines? Every video I've seen about the NBS master has the fitting in the front and the lines are put back in as they came out. Please explain if u have some time. Thanks!
Why did you not route the parking brake cable through the hole on the caliper?
The camera was right on it 30:45 ... the heck?
Because it was made for a Lincolin, not this truck. The cables on the truck won't fit that attachment.
Bet they will
I did a abs bypass on my truck yesterday. My isolation valve was leaking out of a capped hole? It caused my abs light to flash 3x followed by a long blink. Luckily my fitting was the same size. I bought the edlemann 258450 adapter and it didn’t fit. My dumbass didn’t check if they were the same size and I went searching to adapt to my other fitting. Once I finally put the male end of the adapter to the fitting I realized how much time I wasted going store to store try to adapt to the same fitting 🤦🏻♂️. All I had to do was bend the line over and connect.
But you could have adapted it pretty easily. I had a terrible time getting that 1/4 fitting into the bottom of the proportioning valve with my abs in the way. I can’t imagine getting that brake line back into that tiny space on the frame there lol. I just bent it in the truck. Hopefully I didn’t break a line lol.
Your channel should be to ErictheCARGUY to the Comedic Mechanic! lol
Love your flair tool
Me too. It works pretty good.
@@ericthecarguy you got any recamendations on a flair tool need one for my shop but cant find one that I dont see people having bad reviews on
The one that I use, linked in the description, I've seen branded by a few other companies besides Eastwood. Aside from the label falling off, it's served me well.
@@ericthecarguy thanks for the info Eric 200 bucks not a bad price either
Gm had an issue with the diaphragm in some of their vacuum boosters failing. I didn’t have good breaks in my ‘88 K1500 till I put a newer model dual diaphragm booster on and master-cylinder from a 2500.
That vise has (online) a set of jaws that are half bald, half toothed. You should totally get that pair or at least a sleeve for exactly these kinds of jobs where you don't want to poke holes in to tubes or pipes or damage a surface.
OR... he could put it inside a cut piece of hose.
Great work man
I would like to swap out my master cylinder for the one in the video without buying the conversion kit. Where would I get that?
That Hi looked like a SarahNTuned Scenario.
I wanna watch a fat guy do a brake line! By the way you’re not fat Eric we have a saying at the maintenance shop at the winery when we have vendors come in and they’re looking for a certain guy in the shop we say “was he a tall short fat skinny guy” 😂
BTW, @ 19:05 what are those mysterious green things under your chair's castors?! :/ What purpose to they do? :3
LMC sells those E-brake adjustment nuts/contraptions. Anyway.. I have a 89 GMT400, and kept that entire brake system stock, but replaced the lines with SS. I did pick up the LMC Sloted rotors for the front, and that was truly an amazing difference. Now you have Ford parts on your Dads truck... What did your Dad ever do to you to treat him like that? Shocking.
I fell to see how you get all the air out of the rear given the fact that the bleeder is on the hose and not pushing through the caliper and pushing the air out, the fluid can simply go out the bleeder rather than into the caliper. I see why they did that but I would rather have the e cable under the bottom and the stock bleeder on top. Good vid, thanks.
I wonder if this truck has the cleanest body of any 90's gm truck ever...
Why did you swap the lines on the master cylinder? I've got the same master but have drums in the back. Brakes don't feel that great.
I have a special tool to pop a button out to bleed those older abs units. Can’t remember where the “button” is, or the tool for that matter. But you can’t just actuate the older units to bleed them is my point, at least not in my experience. Of course none of this matters here anymore. Thanks for watching
Hey Eric, Please do a follow up on the electrical side of the anti-lock withdrawal. Did any lights come on on the dash? If they did, how did you deal with them. I think my truck has the "computer", but I do not remember seeing the "actuator valve". I'll take a look when I get home tonight.
Yes, the ABS light is on, but since I'm going to build my own cluster without an ABS light it's not going to be an issue.
Some gold content starting right around 28 minutes, lol.
If you remove your ABS does that not invalidate your insurance ? Is not your insurance Co insuring your truck knowing that in an emergency stop the brakes won't lock up and let the truck spin/slide into another vehicle or person...
I got what seem to be the same results, re stopping and pedal feel, with just that master cylinder upgrade.
*watches him loosen brake lines
*screeches in mechanic*" LIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIINE WREEEEEEEEEEEEEEENCH
When your doing your brake thing what do I say to the guy driving behind me calling the police thinking I'm booze cruisin haha
Hey Eric im installing a new combination valve but the new one has four ports and i only have two lines what holes do i use?
good job as always
You want a much faster way to bleed brakes that doesn't require the "down. Okay hold. Up. Wait, are you pushing the pedal all the way down? What?" dance?Go get a vacuum pump, like the Harbor Freight #61245. Use an old jar as a catch can. Put two hose barbs through the lid of the jar and run one hose to the vacuum pump, and use a silicone hose on the other end and run it to the bleeder valve. Turn on the pump. Crack the valve. Watch the bubbles flow. Close the valve, refill the master cylinder, and repeat.You can use a tee and two silicone hoses to get the job done even faster.It's basically a Mityvac, except it works way faster and doesn't break after a couple of uses. And the silicone hose is much more resilient, in my experience, than those dumb 90-degree rubber adapters that the Mityvac uses.
Rear brake calipers are on wrong sides. Bleeder valves ALWAYS go on the top side. You have air trapped.
Ive been watching vid on the master cylinder swap and youe the only one who put the adapter in the back how much of a difference does it make