Test Drive & Tying Up Loose Ends
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- This is (Episode 9) of the #ETCGDadsTruck Series.
Link to (Episode 8): • GMT400 Rear Disc Brake...
Episode 10: • GMT400 Front End Rebui...
I shot videos of the Rear Suspension Drop, Differential Rebuild, and Rear Disc Brake Conversion on my Dads truck pretty much at the same time. As a result, I wasn’t able to do proper test drives at the end, or during each of the videos I just mentioned.
There were also some other loose ends like my U bolts, and torquing the rear suspension that weren’t covered in the previous videos. Hence the reason I decided to make this video.
So if you had questions about some of the previous videos in the #ETCGDadsTruck video series, this video may help give you some clarity.
Camera: Brian Kast, Eric Cook
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Thanks for watching!
Where I plan to get my driveshaft shortened: cincinnatidrive...
Parts
U Bolts: www.amazon.com...
My Differential: www.summitraci...
My 3:73 Gear Set: www.summitraci...
My Differential Cover: www.summitraci...
Ratech Ring and Pinion Installation Kit: www.summitraci...
Truck Axle Bearings (WE60690)(513067): www.ebay.com/p...
Axle Seals (F4762N): www.ebay.com/i...
SSBC Rear Disc Brake Conversion Kit: www.summitraci...
Russell Steel Braided Brake Lines: www.summitraci...
RT Side Parking Brake Cable: www.1aauto.com...
L Side Parking Brake Cable: www.1aauto.com...
The Kit I Used: www.summitraci...
Bushing Kit: www.summitraci...
Drop Shocks: www.summitraci...
VHT Chassis Roll Bar Paint: www.amazon.com...
Related Videos
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#ETCGDadsTruck 4” Rear Suspension Drop (Part 2): • #ETCGDadsTruck 4” Rear...
#ETCGDadsTruck Axle/Differential Rebuild (Part 1): • #ETCGDadsTruck Axle/Di...
#ETCGDadsTruck Axle/Differential Rebuild (Part 2): • #ETCGDadsTruck Axle/Di...
GMT400 Rear Disc Brake Conversion (Part 1) #ETCGDadsTruck: • GMT400 Rear Disc Brake...
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Just a bit of advice,. I would wait till you get your new engine/Transmission in then talk to the shop that's going to be doing the driveshaft work and ask them how they want you to measure it and let them do the math.They can then make it perfect. Good Luck.
I'm doing exactly that. My new transmission is a little shorter than the one in this video. I may not have to do anything, but if I do, I'll be able to take an accurate measurement so that I can have the driveshaft resized. Thanks for the comment.
Eric, it's SO GOOD to see you working on a project again. I love that you don't cover up any of the complications you encounter, too. As you used to say, "I fall on my sword so that you won't".
GREAT to see Cameraman Brian there with you again!
Transmission/diff distance reduces with suspension compression. If it's tight full droop it'll bind when compressed.
I was thinking the same, way too tight.
Agreed this is going to be a problem later
After you pull the drive shaft, measure the height again. It did look like it was in a bind. It just may drop a little more. Might want to do this before you shorten the shaft. Good luck. Great videos!
Gotta love romping on an automatic and hearing it trying to figure out which clutch pack to fry next 🤣
I always make sure that I have about 1 1/2 to 2 inches of clearance between the u-joint and pinion yoke. That gives you the proper slip yoke travel on the transmission output shaft.
So, I would imagine that you wouldn't be able to remove the driveshaft. It's for sure 2 inches to long! But you said that you are going to get a new engine and trans. You'll have to measure the length and cut it accordingly.
You always have get projects and show the work you do. I appreciate your efforts and information you share. Thanks for the great content!
Not getting a new engine, rebuilding. However the new transmission is a little shorter, I may not have to do anything. If I do, then I'll be able to take an accurate measurement to have the driveshaft resized. Thanks for the comment.
You mentioned axle shims, I remember doing a 4/6 drop years ago and the kit came with them. I never attempted to pull the driveshaft out after that. Enjoy your videos as they are real. No such thing as a " bolt on kit"; something always has to be modified :)
Hear! Hear!
We're learning something everyday with you Eric! You're a good man.
Eric, cutting the driveshaft is a must. Without the correct clearance, you'll damage the transmission and the rear differential. Your truck will probably settle down to the advertised 4" drop, but not until you install the correct length driveshaft. At the moment, the truck is binding do to the improper length. The yoke on a proper length driveshaft is centered in the transmission tail-shaft with the vehicle sitting on the ground. Other words, if your yoke is 6" long, you should have 3" showing on the yoke, 3" inside the tail-shaft.... Also did you know the old GMT400 master cylinder has a longer stroke then the upgraded GMT800? I heard a lot of talk about upgrading 88-98 Chevy trucks from the OBS GMT400 master cylinder to the NBS GMT800 master cylinder. Well I attempted that swap yesterday and I was curious about the stroke in both master cylinders. What I found was the GMT400 master has close to 3/4" more stroke. So what that means is your brake pedal will never go to the floor using the GMT800 because it will bottom out in the newer body style master cylinder first.
I’ve been a subscriber for many many years (circa 2011 and beyond) and still continue to learn from your content! One of the few true mechanics still around. Always enjoy your content ETCG!
Thank you! I really appreciate your viewership and your comments.
Yes, I'm a little late to the party, but thanks Eric! I have a high-mileage '94 1/2 Ton 2WD Suburban and a lot of this content is EXTREMELY relevant to me! On my TO-DO list is some type of locker, radio upgrade with rear camera for backing up to trailers, and rear disc brakes w/ ABS delete (the ABS comes in STUPID early and is going to get me injured if I don't get rid of it!). Will be becoming a website member *very* soon!
Those wheels are really cool. They definitely suit the truck well. And while I'm not a truck guy, I'm still excited for the build. This is definitely my favorite body style of any truck.
Lug centering = Lug centric
hub centering = hub centric
Toyota does both on their cars - the hub and hub bore are the same size, but the lug nuts are also centering lug nuts; most manufacturers only do hub centering.
Final Torque while on the ground is always the answer for suspension work; I have ramps I use to simulate "ground" on my WRX because it's real tight under there, but now it rides and handles significantly better than it used to on the 13 year old 125k mile original suspension.
EDIT: when I did my suspension I torqued everything initially, and after it had settled (I honestly waited a couple months) I loosened and re-torqued all the fasteners, again "on the ground" (ramps) Not sure if tat matters or not, but I don't encounter any binding/odd noises while driving. I also waited until it settled to get a proper alignment, I eyeballed it pretty well initially and after a re-torque, good enough such that my toe was only slightly off where I wanted it (target of zero) and my camber was off by 0.1-0.3 across all four corners of my target (-1.8 front, -1.3 rear).
not talking large iron , but back in the days of mini trucks , yes I did that , the driveshaft was often an issue, and to long , but I won't even say how we hacked that issue ... it took me a few years , and about 10k to fix all the crap that was rigged , and having the frame plated where I drug the bottom out if it , but I am proud to say I still own it , most are well and gone now ...
Thanks for all the information, my son has his Grandpa's old 98 Chevy and is experiencing the soft brake pedal, thanks for the help!👍👍
I like the new stance .
18:47 my 96 Town Car had aluminum wheels like that. Was scared of tire shops for this reason. They've already messed up lugnuts on my Grand Marquis by starting them with the air gun, stripping almost every one 2-3 threads in.
My cars now have aluminum rims that sit on the hub, so I make sure they have anti-seize on the mating surfaces so I don't get stuck somewhere with a flat I can't remove
Yep I lowered my 78 dodge Lil red truck in 1985 , 6" rear and 4" front and never had a problem with driveshaft angle , removal, or noise. Will be interesting to see if noise goes away when you have the driveshaft cut. By the way I still have the truck, and bought a second one in 95 and lower it, I did install air bags on top of my leaf springs which made for a really good ride, and Carring capacity.
About 15 years ago, I experienced this same issue when dropping an S-10. Eventually, I concluded using a slightly shorter driveshaft. However, these kinds of things can prompt one to temporarily ponder suicide.
I did a 4/2 drop kit on my 2004 ram 1500 like 9 years ago . I just replace the U joints, no problems by removing the driveshaft
Love the camera angle. It's cool to see the leaf springs twist on accel and decel.
I lowered my 1989 Dodge Dakota a Belltech 4-4 kit. Driveshaft fit a little tighter than before. I also used the 2° shims to correct the pinion angle that Belltech included with the kit.
Thanks for that info! It's what I suspected. If you lower a vehicle, you may need to shorten your driveshaft.
Wow, those wheels are gorgeous!
Yes Eric you are the Master Troubleshooter ! Good Job!
makes sense that when lowering the vehicle, the geometry is being changed, so yes you’d have to shorten the driveshaft. I agree with you that 1 1/2 - 2 inches would do it
I agree 100% with everything you said re the drive shaft.
Normally, the drive shaft should not need shortening when lowering the vehicle IF the new ride height is within the range of the original suspension at full load.
If you're within the range of movement of the original suspension (bump stops haven't moved), and the driveshaft is loaded up, then it must have been technically too long all along. You (or your Dad) maybe just never loaded up the suspension enough to notice it.
I think that driveshaft has been a little too long ever since the transmission change, and your rear suspension drop has just highlighted it.
Re the centering rings - looks like those center wheel trims / hub caps (whatever they're called) will act as centering rings anyway as it looks like they're the same inner diameter as the centering rings.
Love the camera angles. The shots under the car are outstanding.
Agreed, definitely needs to be shortened. You have no room left for suspension compression.
Love the editing, click click click, that was great.
The radio that your going to install is also amazing. I just installed it in my truck. It sounds amazing and has great features. I ordered it because of the factory look. I have the same one with the XM radio and Bluetooth. It connects really quick to your phone and the hands free is amazing quality.
Just installed it yesterday. I'm very happy. I have one of their radios in my Fairmont too.
Lovely camera placement and rear axle action! Always had a very very slight diff whine when coasting off the freeway, has recently had new GL-5 fluid (old Mercedes).
Great job on the truck so far! Looking good and thank you for the helpful knowledge!
the wheels beauty cap IS the centering ring!
I agree the sound is coming from something in the related to the differential. Careful not to shorten up the driveshaft to much. I would grab another Stock drive shaft and shorten that one, incase you want to lift the truck back to stock.
Actually I'm not going to shorten it right away. My new transmission is shorter than the one that's in the truck now. I'm going to check things again after I install it. If it's still too long, I'll be able to take accurate measurements for what I need. Thanks for the comment.
Hey good job on the truck looking good, thank you for taking the time and teaching the youth and other people. Much love
my dad has a truck like this 94 gmc short bed all black he calls it his black widow I love these trucks soooo easy to work on
If you have to move the rear end to install the driveshaft, it's too long. The lower the rear end the shorter DS you need.
@@harborcbs he was a Honda tech. Pretty sure they don't lower cars or make sleepers out of a family car. This is a learning experience for him as well as anyone watching. Don't walk around acting like you know everything the first time you do it
Harborcbs go troll somewheres else dick head
@harborcbs Really wish you had paid attention to what I actually said in the video, or watched the entire thing. I said that the driveshaft was too long, and I talked about why that was the cause of the noise coming from the rear end. I also plan to address this again after I've installed the new transmission which, by the way, is shorter than the transmission that's in the truck now. If the driveshaft is too long then, I can take an accurate measurement of the distance between the transmission and pinion to have the driveshaft correctly sized, but, you already knew that right?
@@harborcbs cool dude. So your telling me you knew everything the first time you did it. Did you have dad or someone who knew what they were doing watching? You could be 100 and still learn something new everyday. Get off the high horse
@@harborcbs oh and like Eric said if you watched, he talked to a mechanic who does it almost on a daily basis. He said you wouldn't have to take out the driveshaft. But if you listened to eric later in the vid or previous vids thats not the stock transmission. So if it had the stock transmission he couldave been fine
I had to lengthen my drive shafts when I lifted my truck, same deal only backwards. I only mess around with shims under the springs when I have to correct the u-joint operating angles on the rear axle.
Cant wait to get that new brake conversion kit, it sounds like a jet engine under the bed thanks!!!!!
This is my first series watching as a newer sub. These videos are awesome. I'm hooked.
Welcome and thank you!
Absolutely! Thanks for all the content.
years ago my brother lowered aChevy truck ...and I remember I had to go pick up the shortened drive shaft :)
I think shortening the drive shaft will definitely help get rid of the noise on the pinion bearings
Angle is important too.
The exhaust sounds amazing.
Are you kidding, it sounds like dogshit!
Realy nice to see how the diff points up when it acelerates and straigth himself off when its on idle, you may need put bars on the leaves ,because with more power of the future engine and transmicion it wil twist harder
Cheers Men!
I know you are doing the trans et already but if someone happens on this. Short term you could have drilled new guide holes on the spring perches. This would move your axel back giving you room for the stock driveshaft. Though it messes with your tires being centered in the wheel wells. In fact alot of aftermarket perches will have 3 holes out of the box intended for centering the wheels in the arches.
Eric, I had lowered a 1993 C1500 short bed just like the one you are currently working on with the same 4" drop in the rear with no issues. I think the problem is your truck had a manual transmission that was converted over to an automatic transmission. The automatic transmission is longer then the original 5 speed manual transmission which came stock in the truck and when the truck had the stock ride height the driveshaft worked without any issue, even though the automatic transmission was a little longer. So between lowering the truck and the longer transmission you have no more room for correct driveshaft movement.
Bring back the manual!!! lol love all the work being done makes me miss my old truck more and more
Hi Eric. I have a 1994. I did the flip kit in the back and the plate that the axle sits on actually moved the axle back. I use the same driveshaft and have no problem removing it.
Thank you for that info!
Out of all of the trucks I've lowered I've never had a driveshaft modified. All were S10's though so I never had to flip the leaf springs
hi eric i love you channel
and because of your video's i started fixing my own car's,
and then started, selling used car's, because of you i switched from being a locksmith to filliping cars on a regular basis
i've been doing this for about a 8 months now and thing's going great, i 2 have 2 thing's i would like to talk to you about
first one is public so here's a curved one for yea....
my wife's car is a v6 1999 accord
i got it 2 year's+ ago and your video's helped to keep it running and happy, so it was driving fine for a year+ 6 mouths ago it started to shut down mid driving at random, about 2 mouths ago
it was doing it so often we stopped using it, now it won't start at all, will crank, no start, engine is getting gas from pump, all plugs showing spark, (i haven't tested the spark timing) the only error showing is a p0420 and i don't think this is the problem.
main relay was replaced, ignition switch was replaced, mass air flow sensor was replaced, none solved this problem, i had 4 other mechanic's look at it to try to find this problem before it has died completely.
i am thinking some kind of electrical problem.
my wife is ready to junk it, but i think i can fix it.
please help.
second thing is a little more privet, but i couldn't to directly contact you.
would love it if you shoot me an email
binary_code@walla.co.il
I like this kind of video they are very entertaining to watch.
I had one of those trucks. I had air ride put on it. Looked and performed amazing.
I changed all my rear end internals and dropped my 83 C10 im now curious and worried about my driveshaft fitting, THANKS ERIC lol hopefully I can sleep tonight but ill test fit the driveshaft and let everyone know. haven't drove it at all
I'd love to have that info. Thanks.
I love the flapping muffler tape. 😂
When I flipped my 1993 c1500 the drive shaft wouldn't fit with the kit in it moved my rear end back 1 inch then the shaft fit love the truck
Great camera angles Eric. Thanks.
I’ve lowered the same style truck 6 inches and the drive shaft fit. I thought those trucks came with a aluminum drive shaft not steel. Maybe whoever built the steel one made it to long
Stop second guessing the brake system. 4 wheel disc will always look better than a disc/drum combo, because aesthetics matter. Have a Happy Easter!
lol truth - eff the BS, they look cool!
"Was it worth the money and time I put into it? ?
I rebuilt a '79 Chevette engine.
Touchet!
So did I. In high school Auto Shop class. It was my first car.
If you or the person you are doing it (the work) for can still enjoy it afterward, then it is probably a yes it was worth it.
My girlfriend in highschool had an 81 or 82 Chevette - dont know the exact year. Good times with her in that Chevette, oh yeah!
Great job
I pieced together my kit for my 94 Silverado. Belltech leaf springs are 5950 and I got belltech 3 inch lowering coil springs in front rear leaf spring shackles from AutoZone and I'm sitting at 29.5 inches from the ground front and back with 235 75 15 tires and I don't have any Driveline issues with one degree of angle on both ends but I've got a single cab short bed so different Driveline I guess
I feel like camera man Brian doesn’t get much love, so here’s to you camera man Brian! Great job as always!!!
Noise on decel is the pinion (so if it is at a different angle) most likely is the culprit as the other fella said.
Normally you can get a degree angle measure on the front and should be the same but opposite on the rear, some can have a bit of play on Accel/decel.
Hey EricTheCarGuy I really wish you can respond but I want to tell you that because I am in college for mechanical engineering and learning physics I might know some stuff. To the point I want to say that forces and acceleration will wear if the driveshaft is too long and not only that force from the long driveshaft will impact the transmission and the thrust bearings but it will tear up your pinion gear because it will be too far forward because there are different types of stresses there are rotational stresses and forward and backward stresses when your engine is running plus an engine has pulses of power and no internal combustion engine has a smooth rotational power because the piston and the crankshafts are moving up and down,left and right and rotational force causes wear and having a smaller yoke and a shorter driveshaft will help and if you don't have the correct clearance, you'll damage the transmission and the rear differential. Your truck will probably settle down to the advertised 4" drop, but not until you install the correct length driveshaft. At the moment, the truck is binding do to the improper length. This will cause more twisting force and overload more stress on parts and I think you should get a lighter driveshaft NOT just for performance but it will reduce load on your differential and transmission when driving because when you drive down the road it requires 2-5mph more to get up a hill than it does with your current driveshaft and having more weight and I say having a thinner shim NOT a thicker shim will do the trick because of the movement the mechanical parts and that there might be more force and there are more loads constraining Also make sure you lubricate the bearings with grease so no wear or friction stress is on those bearings...Bearings are designed to take a stationary object like the case of a differential and the pinion shaft and reduce friction loads and constraints I also think your driveshaft is NOT just your problem it is your gear upgrade and your transmission because there are stresses like centrifugal force,frictional force,thrust bearing forces that cause your drive-train to be out of balance. Also having a engine that has 3000 rpm and 1 revolution of a pinion gear is 15 teeth on the pinion gear and 34 teeth on the ring gear that would be harmful to your drive-train to work harder to get up to 10mph than to because of the extra 0.0003 thousandths of an ounce everytihng has to be to a science to know the weight,speeds,forces and frictions. Also another helpful thought is have your fairmount on the lift and look how that is setup Your truck is designed to have very precise measurements and when you modify the truck you can add more centrifugal torque stresses. Torque is rotational or twisting force and too much torque with a long driveshaft and also forces that push one way and another way cause that noise during the test drive and also stresses from the angle causes wear I am sorry that this is a long comment but I wanted to help Thank you :)
you can use the shorter th350 yolk in a 700r4/4l60 (what im assuming is in your truck) will move the u joint closer to the tail shaft on the transmission. what my drive line shop has always had me do when measuring driveshafts is to put the yolk in the transmission bottom it out pull it back 3/4 of an inch then measure from center of u joint to center of the u joint on the rear. they have always come out perfect.
also not sure what you plan on using for a transmission if you plan on going to a 4l80 or th400 from a 700r4/4l60 your have to change your driveshaft length again.
The U joint locates the yolk, not the yolk. Installing a different one will make no difference. That said, the new transmission is shorter than the one that's in the truck now. I'm going to recheck after I install it. If it's still too long, I can take an accurate measurement so that I can have the driveshaft resized. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy the shorter yolk lets the slip yolk go further into the transmission moving the u joint closer to the transmission. effectivly making the driveshaft shorter. i have done this before i could send you measurements and pictures if you wanted, have this setup currently in one of my cars. that has independent rear suspension i used that setup because slipyolk travel is illrelevent and locating the u joint closer to the tail shaft reduces chances of drive line vibration. but if your installing a transmission that is shorter its probably a moot point anyway you're want to wait till you get your new transmission in because its cheaper/ easyer to shorten a driveshaft than it is to make one longer. so if you shorten it now you might kick yourself for it later.
The yolk has nothing to do with its positioning inside the transmission. Short or long, the U joint locates the yolk. I actually covered this in the video and explained why it's not possible. Perhaps you're referring to something else that I'm not aware of.
I put 4" drop blocks and a set of Nitro Drop shocks under my S10 leaf springs and had no driveshaft issues. Apples to oranges? The front got 1" taller bottom ball joints, Belltech 2" drop springs. Eventually, I'll have a triangulated 4-link in back w/ an air suspension and be done w/ those harsh leaf springs. Hope things work out w/ that shortened driveshaft.
Eric, Fords have vacume switch ,actually a check valve,dealer part .I had peddle fade on my 99 Mazda b3000 3.0 ,same as Ford ranger. They loose seal and peddle will float. After I replaced my front calipers/ pads./ bleed system. This made a big difference, when I replaced the vacume sw.( on Fords on booster, on newer ones its inline with large vacume lines near boster) very tight non drift peddle after this repair.Me industrial electrician,licenced type,used to work for Ford on. The line,as electrician,robots/ plcs; building transit van, KC,Mo. Check were your vacume switch,related to brakes, is on your Chevy...Peace...Hugh...Chicago...metro
Booster problems often equate to a more firm pedal because you loose vacuum assist. That said, the brakes improved dramatically after replacing the pads, rotors, and the front brake hoses with steel braided lines. You'll see this in future episodes.
Thanks for the info!
I love that truck. Good stuff there Eric.
Another good video, Thanks for sharing. !!!!
The stance has a nice tough look to it. Concerned with the roll the diff has when accelerating. Shaft too long... killed new bearing in my 71... yup, good times... anyways,
Great series, thanks for sharing.
Cheers
All pinions have that angle when accelerating, unless they're locked down. It's the natural tendency of the pinion to walk up the ring gear as you accelerate. Sorry to hear about your '71. Thanks for your comment.
Eric, I have the same Auburn limited slip diff on my 98 mustang, and sounds the same on coasting, that is the normal sound of them, mine is been installed for a year, no problems, at first I thought the mechanic din't put the friction modifier, so I drained completely and put fresh gear oil with the aditive, but it sounded the same, so I learned to live with a new sound on my car! Hope this helps!
I don't believe that's normal at all. I'd check your driveshaft length and also your pinion bearing preload. Im 98% sure the noise is from the pinion bearings being loaded up. As you coast, the pinion settles downward. When it does with a driveshaft that's too long like mine is, it stresses the pinion as well as the transmission.
If your driveshaft is correct, then your pinion bearing preload is likely too high. If you have an 8.8, I did a complete series on that. ruclips.net/video/5fARhE7v5Bg/видео.html
@@ericthecarguy Thanks Eric! I will verify the preload! The car has the original shaft and is not lowered!
I lowered my truck 4 inches in the rear and 2vin the front.. I had to shorten my drive shaft because the difference was shorter than before I lowered it. Everyone I know who has lowered their truck had to get a new drive shaft made
Thank you for that info!
I had a howl on decel exactly like that in my Grand Marquis - it was improper pinion nut torque. If I recall correctly, I tightened the nut just a little bit more, and the noise was gone. 👍
That's exactly why I think the issue has to do with the driveshaft being too long. It puts pressure on the pinion bearings, especially on decell. Thanks for the input.
@@ericthecarguy - No problem, brother. Truck is looking SWEET!! Keep up the great work Eric. 👍👍
Killer camera shots.
I got a 91 shortbed bud. Its c notched and axle flipped for 7" drop in the back. Still using my unmodified driveshaft and not too long ago I took it out as I'm going 4 link. Came out just fine.
I said before on my S10, I had to have a custom shaft made. The lowering kit did move the shaft forward a little bit, which put a small kink in the original shaft which caused a vibration. The yoke should have a minimum depth of 1.5" inside the transmission. While I do enjoy my LS swap S10, the money spent on the entire project was just too much. It was a fun project though
You always spend too much on project vehicles, but that's hot rodding. ;)
@@ericthecarguy I agree! It was money that I should've spent on the grand national or my El Camino, instead of the S10. Live and learn I guess.
the truck looks good
Morning Eric
Morning.
A friend of mine has bought himself a '92 Blazer (quite a rare car here in Germany) and he has some issue with his posi diff, it seems to be locking up every time he turns, so he may have to rebuild it as well.
I've got a series of videos on that. 👍 I hope they help.
I think i've seen like 2 of those in the whole of Germany, so yeah, i think a Unicorn is less rare. :) Best of luck to him, he's going to need it.
@EricTheCarGuy I wish, but he doesn't speak English, so I'd have to translate them for him. I'm not a mechanic though, as he is. So it's complicated, but it'll get done eventually. The plan is to bring this car on the road.
Yes I’ve lowered many trucks and cars and alway able to use stock drive shaft as normal.
Great job. You can get black foam back headliner at Michaels crafts.
Your Kentucky chrome is loose and flapping in the wind.
great content! looks to me like the output shaft bottomed out in the slip yoke has some effect on the suspension drop from lowering down all the way due to the mechanical interference once the truck is even lowered onto the ground and the driveshaft is dead bottomed with the trans right off the bat. also those center caps look to have a taper and the exact same inner diameter of the plastic rings that you have so i would assume the center caps are hub centric so to speak when you mount up the wheels.
Love your videos
I've never had issues removing/installing a driveshaft after installing drop shackles/hangers. Even after a flip kit, no issues removing a driveshaft, but that's because the new saddles are offset and move the diff a little farther back. If the shaft is all the way in and you cant slide it on with the suspension at full droop, its WAY too long. At full droop, you should have the most distance between output shaft and diff yoke. Which means that in your case, at ride height, the shaft is pushing into the tail end of the trans and the pinion yoke, probably whats causing your pinion bearing noise. At suspension compression or under hard acceleration, this would be even worse since this is when the yoke is closest to the transmission output shaft. Check your driveline angles as well, might need a shim, but only way to tell is by measuring angles.
My thoughts EXACTLY.
Actually, it's less under acceleration because the pinion has a tendency to walk up the ring gear, thus elevating the pressure on the pinion. As you decell, it comes down and that's when the driveshaft really pushes against the pinion causing the noise.
I'll be installing a slightly shorter transmission. I plan to recheck everything after that install. If there's still an issue, I'll be able to take an accurate measurement and have the driveshaft resized.
Thanks for your input.
your statement only applies if the shaft has wiggle room, which it doesn't in your truck. Its jammed up inside the tail housing that it literally has no room to slide in or out. Any time that differential gets closer to the transmission, the driveshaft is jamming into both components....be it on acceleration, suspension compression or any combination of.
As stated, on acceleration the pinion moves up, thus creating more space between the transmission and differential. It's when it moves down under deceleration that the space becomes less and the noise is heard because the pinion bearings are under pressure. I actually cover this in detail at the end of the video. You can also clearly see it in the footage. Thank you for your input.
Eric, along with shortening the driveshaft, it couldn't hurt to also check the driveline angles with an angle finder (or angle gauge) could make a good video as well.. incorrect angles can cause noise.
I plan to, but checking it now would be useless as a driveshaft that is too long can force the pinion into a different angle. I plan to recheck everything after I install the new transmission which is a little shorter than the one that's in there now. I may not have to do anything. If it's still too long, then I can take an accurate measurement to have the driveshaft resized. Thanks for the comment.
Had similar problem after axle swap way back in early 2000's... only way to fix it was to shorten drive shaft.
Looks great! You might want to re-torque the pinion nut as a precaution.
No, I don't believe that has anything to do with it. Also, it's not a torque, it's a measurement of how much resistance it takes to turn the pinion. That's very difficult to gauge after the gears have been broken in. I covered that in the differential rebuild part of the series.
I'm going to recheck everything after I install the new transmission which is a little shorter than the one that's in there now. If the driveshaft is still too long, I can take an accurate measurement and have it resized. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy Yes, you're right. I should know better than to comment at 2:00 am. {:>)
just now getting to watching this series. The driveshaft being too long is likely due to the fact that it's lowered WITH a non-stock transmission. The manual trans probably had a shorter tail-shaft. Not so much so that the trans conversion had a problem, but add to it the shorter distance with lowering and the drive shaft is too long. Or maybe when the auto trans was put in they had a custom driveshaft length made then.
I also recently installed same auburn lsd on my 95 c1500 and same drop done lowering shackle and drop hangers and I’m still able to remove my drive shaft with no problem and I even removed the over load leaf spring and am still able to remove drive shaft.
Good to know. Thanks for that input.
Any more than a 3' drop in the ass, angle shims are needed. My experience on my 90 454SS, 91 standard cab and box and a 92 standard cab and box. Parents 2002 standard cab and box and 2005 standard cab and box. Went to 4" on the 92 and the 2005 with hangers, and shims where a necessity once I did. I also added another leaf in the spring pack for people that didn't understand they weren't work trucks anymore.
Thank you for that info!
Back at it again with a fire truck vid!
That's not a fire truck, fire trucks are red silly /s
If I'm not mistaken. Changing ride height also changes the angle of the driveline. And if you dont take into consideration of that angel you will get either noise, clunking, rapidwaer including possible damage to driveline components
What does angels have to do with anything? Oh wait, you mean angle?
That's true, but the issue with the driveshaft needs to be addressed first. A driveshaft that is too long will effect pinion angle.
I've never had an issue getting the driveshaft out after lowering any of my trucks or cars.
And aren't you supposed to drop the carrier bearing to get it out?
with the rear end hanging you will not be able to remove the DS. if you let the truck on the ground you should be able to remove it. it will be tight. once you do the pinion angle correction. about 4 degrees negative it will be easier to remove it. I believe the 4l60e is the same overall length as your 4l60 you need to shorten the DS, like you said about 1". I really enjoyed watching you do some Hot Rodding Dads truck.
Have you thought about setback plates? I'm not sure if they're a thing with GMT400s, but on S10s, the rear end isn't perfectly centered in the wheel well. A setback plate is a common modification for S10s with engine swaps or lowering kits to move the rear end further back in the wheel well as an alternative to shortening the driveshaft. Worth looking into for your truck before you invest in shortening the driveshaft.
I'm actually waiting until after I install the new transmission which is a little shorter than the one that's in the truck now. If it's still too long, I'll be able to take an accurate measurement so that I can get the driveshaft resized. Thanks for the comment.
Great vid sir
From what ive seen, it seems to be over a 2 inch drop when you start having problems with pinion angle. I have a dakota that is dropped 2 inches in the rear and I dont have any problems with the drive shaft
12:40 exhaust leak? anyway great video, love the suspension shots - gives one a good appreciation of the abuse any car's suspension takes on a daily basis! I'm currently hunting down every last clunk and noise on my project Forester XT, only problem is I lack the expertise - learning more everyday though doing almost all of it myself - car is in pretty good shape at this point partly thanks to channels like yours!
I'm happy to help. You might also find this helpful. www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/diagnosing-noises-in-your-car
Turn your springs around. When you installed the lowering kit you somehow reversed the springs. The center locating pin is not dead center in the leafs moving your axle housing more forward causing your driveshaft yoke to bottom out in the transmission.
I’ve got a 1993 Silverado with the 350 and a 5speed manual with a 4inch drop on the stock rear axle and I have no issues with noise or removing my driveshaft
Thank you for the info!
As tight as that drive shaft is with the rear suspension fully decompressed in the air i wouldn't doubt it if it's holding the back of the truck up when u set it down. Take the shaft out and measure the rear ride height again for kicks, it might be 4 inches lower lol.