How To Design A DIY Crossover Using Free Software | Live Crossover Design
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- Опубликовано: 21 июн 2018
- Live crossover design using free software.
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SPEAKER DESIGN SERIES
Step 1 | The Plan - • How To Design Your Own...
Step 2 | Driver Selection - • DIY Speaker Driver Sel...
Step 2.5 | Detailed Driver Selection - • Detailed DIY Speaker D...
Step 3 | Enclosure Design - • Easy DIY Speaker Enclo...
Step 4 | Intro To Crossover Design - • How To Design A Crosso...
FREE SOFTWARE
VituixCAD - kimmosaunisto.net/Software/So...
Recently Vituix released V2 of their software. I'm using V1 in this example.
SPEAKERS
Dayton Audio DS90-8 3” - bit.ly/DS90-8
Dayton Audio TCP115-8 4” - bit.ly/TCP115-8
Dayton Audio TD20F-4 - bit.ly/TD20F-4
CROSSOVER TUTORIALS
www.audioholics.com/loudspeak...
sound.whsites.net/lr-passive.htm
techtalk.parts-express.com/for...
www.diyaudioandvideo.com/
www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-...
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ALL YOU NEED TO GET STARTED
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If you have any questions, comment!
I invite you to be apart of this awesome community.
Thank you so much for watching!
-Kirby 
Хобби
I think I will never build a speaker in my life, but I still enjoy the videos! :P
This is great. Thanks so much for watching!
build 2 instead ; )
Austin Bauman hahaha ok :P
Eduardo same here
may never build a speaker but may still need to build a crossover
Thanks for taking the time to these videos. Great learning.
Love this series of videos. Yes I've gotten alot out of them thank you.
I got a lot out of it. You do a great job explaining things and keeping it real. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I like starting with a notch filter on the tweeter and an impedance compensator on the woofer. Then build the crossover on top of that. It enables the phase relationship between the woofer and tweeter to be more constant across the frequency range above and below the crossover frequency. In other words, the speaker drivers look more like resistors to the crossover network, so the crossover has a more predictable response. I’ve done this and then built 1st order high pass and low pass, which combined with the notch and z-compensation, acted as a 2nd order crossover quite nicely. Worked super well for my project. Anyway, just something you could try on the software pretty easily and see if you like it or not.
I will try this for sure. Thank you for sharing your experience! And thanks for watching
You’re welcome. I enjoy ur whole channel. Keep ‘em coming!
Good approach. Instead notch filter for for tweeter you can use L pad, it also makes impedance more flatten and easy for filters. This is additional reason to do not use single resistor for tweeter before filter, but use L pad after (!) filter. To the filter see easy impedance.
WTF use a notch filter?
I tried looking notch filter and impedance compensator up on Parts Express and struck out, is there another name for these parts?
So I have built a few proven designs and a few of my own full range designs. After watching your videos I really want to try my hand at a full custom design. Keep up the great videos.
Many studio monitors are 2 way speakers, and all this may be a reason. Of course then there is the driver itself, the way an enclosure alters it's response, and the room they go in. Speakers. Lots going on! Great video!
Thank you for a very educational, informative video.
Thank you very much .. you made me seriously consider building my own speakers now ... i downloaded the software and started training on it ... made a couple of nice 2 way crossovers with dayton audio data sheets ( just for fun )
BTW about taking a photo for the nice spots during crossover designing then tweaking again ... you can click ctr-s to save your work then continue tweaking ,so if you want to go back to your nice spot you can return easily that worked for me just fine :)
Great video series Kirby! I am learning a lot as I am getting ready to make my own build! I have forgotten so much!
This was super helpful, thanks kma!
Great minds think alike/fools never differ, unsure. Really appreciate the direction you're heading in man - word on the street is you're a very cool dude and this vid proves it. I've learned enough to know, I didn't know enough to know, I didn't know.
✌🏽
You are a brilliant, knowledgeable, quirky, and extremely likeable audio expert.
Respect, kid.
great class!!!! thank you
Very usefull video. Very well done. It will help me a lot when designing my future speakers. Back in the days we were just using calculators and books. Gonna be fun.
I liked very much your videos, I am building now speakers with DSP crossover, but my target is to replace it with analog. Your video showed me that I can do that easily when I will be ready for that. Thanks a lot. YOU R Great!!!
You could always make save points where you think you like the settings, just label the file after what you liked/disliked about it and then continue to work and make new file names. Lots of your own profiles! :)
I've learned so much! :D
this was a great video, i only wish you would have described the various lines , I eventually figured out the bold grey was the average sound for that build.
You are doing a great job, thank you.
Hi Kirby,Im a beginner and find that I really struggle with software - I purchased bass box pro,trueaudio and also have vituix which i cant seem to get started on especially when using OEM drivers But I would like to say how Excellent your videos are. You actually break things down and explain how they work for me who's no good with books this really means a lot.THANK YOU.
PS Do you have any videos on using speaker cabinet software etc. Many thanks.Mark from UK
Thanks for this video Kirby! This is fun and relaxed addition to my "official" lessons with boring female machine voice by MS :) Video for version 2 with comprehensive off-axis responses 0-180 deg. in two planes could be helpful at this point because new version with free form schematic, OP amps and other parameterized library blocks has been available for few months now.
Br, Kimmo, author of VituixCAD
Very very easy to follow, thank you
This is great. Thanks for videos
Hello Kirby, Nice video! What would the final impedance of the speaker be? (what about if you had used a single 8ohm woofer and tweeter?)
Love the videos. Long cast is to keep you from turning your wrist.
The Vituix software demonstrated has changed dramatically since this video and seems much harder to use. Any chance of getting an update basic guide?
had the same problem XD i just dowloaded an older version 1.1 i think that worked.
@@Phanex cannot find V 1.1
Really clear and helpful explanation
Thank you for all the help. Preferably where should our impedance peak or center be?
I would love to see you do a DML build with exciters.
This was so great, but basically the software needs specific data from the manufacturer, right? And not all include that, so it will only work on some drivers?
woodstocks cup!!
all or my cups are from wood stocks from my time drinking there at ucsb lol
The snipping tool would also work temporarily to save work. Great video. Thanks!
thanks a lot !
A true lifesaver
Question: noticed you didn’t check for the resistors, such as the 1.5ohm on the tweeter, as well as I assume the resistors the come with the inductors? Is the inductor and resistor 2 separate parts? Thanks so much! Learning a lot
I love the FDR parameters. LOL Great dude.
Great info 👍👌
Great video and great software. After playing around with it for a little while it dawned on me that enclosure type and size can really change the frequency response of a driver pretty drastically so how should that be taken into consideration when designing a crossover? Is that kind of why you recommend tweaks after the speaker is built?
The way Kirby proposes to design the crossover is fundamentally flawed, because he suggests that you use the FRD/ZMA files for the drivers. Not only will the drivers you actually receive probably have a different response, they also will be placed in a box, as you mention. When you design a crossover, you really should take measurements with a measurement microphone of the drivers in the box before you start to design the crossover. If you just use the FRD/ZMA files, your speaker's frequency response will look almost nothing like the theoretical model.
Hi Kirby! Can u upload a vid explaining nominal impedance and total impedance of 2 or 3 drivers connected to crossovers in a speaker box?
amazing video
hope you keep update :)
When you get to a point your happy with save it. Then tweak more amd if you make it better save and replace or if you make it worse close without saving. Basically just make save points.
Hey Kirby, love your vids! I have a question, how do you deal with woofer cone excursion going wild under the tuning frequency?
I'm trying to use a high pass filter, and it works for the excursion but really limits the low frequency response of the woofer.
The simulation with a DSA115-8 driver started with a 65hz F3 but with the high pass filter goes all the way up to 85hz... :(
Great video man, i'm going to build my first speaker with crossovers!
would you recommend using a woofer and tweeter of the same brand?
giving my price range i was thinking of buying the combination of:
Peerless by Tymphany BC25SC06-04 1" Textile Dome Tweeter
Dayton Audio RS125-4 5" Reference Woofer 4 Ohm
Would like to hear your thoughts!
Nice part
I downloaded VituixCAD 2, but none of the speaker data I loaded into it shows up on the SPL and Impedance graph. Also, the GUI looks quite a bit different now from what's in this video (this video highlights verion 1.1, which is somewhat older). If you go to the Vituix website, you won't find a download link for their older 1.1 version software. However, if you copy the download link to version 2, then replace "2" in the link with "11", it will download the older version 1.1. And now you can follow along with this tutorial much better. You're welcome.
Had some trouble finding v1.1, Thanks!
Pure genius. Had the same problem
Where to find zma files for drivers and tweeters? I find it hard to make these. Also I can't understand why only Dayton supply them, it wd be great if SB, Scan etc did this
Hi Kirby. When choosing speakers for a build, I see speakers I think look good. Then I consider my listening practices. Mostly soft volumes but sometimes I like to crank the Emotiva mono blocks loud. I have noticed that some of the tweeters I am interested in are rated rather low. Should I be concerned about choosing a bass and mid rated for 400 watts and a tweeter rated for 60? Will the crossover software tell me how many watts are going to each speaker? Will I just blow tweeters when I crank them?
Thanks a Stack .... I am an Old Bugger already .... :-) :-) :-) , a retired 'Engineer' and do a bit of Audio as a Hobby, Live Christchurch, New Zealand .... I must say that I Really Appreciate all your wonderful explanations .... I am about to build yet another 'Cabinet' pair .... Want to do a Front Ported TL with "Full Range 6.5" Audio Nirvana Ferrite Drivers". Might end up with a little 'Hybrid' TL / Tapered Horn design .... A bit of 'Thumb Sucking' on that one .... :-) :-) :-) I'll be doing a bit of a Binge Watch of your Great vidclips .... All the Very Best to You and Yours for 2021 .... Cheers from NZ
Nice video! Real time playing around and having fun with software! That's exactly how it looks like when I do it and is fun to watch. You did a good job in explaining.
Unfortunately you forgot one thing and twisted a fact a little: 1) this software takes neither the baffle (step) nor the bass reflex enlosure into account. I asked Dayton Audio the other day how they measure their frequency response data. They replied that they mount all drivers onto an infinite baffle. A small baffle will change the responses and you lose the bass bump you liked. 2) As you say at 23:20 if you increase the value of the resistor you need a smaller cap but you need a bigger coil for the same frequency. But this is only true if the resistor is *after* the high pass. As you can see very clearly at 23:53 the position of the slope doesn't change if you change the resistor. If the resistor was between filter and driver the slope would move to left and right and also the steepness of the slope would change because crossover frequencies of coil and cap change in opposite directions.
Some days ago I made a simulation of your project in BoxSim. You can find a perfect and a cheaper version here: drive.google.com/open?id=1amzvyOBJjfB1hwL_pCarYhKDwWbsJUV7 . The 1 inch chamfer/radius on baffle edges around the tweeter is very important in both versions for good balance at every angle. I think that is necessary if you're not sitting in the sweet spot which I would assume for casual listening.
Really great points Marius, thank you! I appreciate you taking the time to model this up. I'll for sure add the chamfer/radius to the front baffle. I think it'll be fun to compare our different crossovers when the speakers are finally built. Thank again for getting involved!
Thanks for your reply, Kirby! No problem! I model up about one project every week and last week I was curious what outcome I could achieve from your idea.
BTW: I now added the enclosure simulation of AJHorn, which I imported into BoxSim, to my Google Drive (same link as above). It predicts -3 dB at 43 Hz in 3.5 litres. Because this driver is a little stubborn due to its high voice coil inductance I otherwise couldn't get the response in BoxSim to match AJHorn. AJHorn usually is at least 90% in correspondence with reality, so I trust it more than BoxSim.
This is great... So long as you can find the files you actually need to make it work. Without them, you're out of luck.
thx bro u just saved me a lot of money
No problem 👍
you are truly a GEEK
Great video. In addition to your design process, I appreciate all the sources for software, parts, etc. Great idea to take snapshots during the design phase with the software. You could also do a Print screen and created a jpg of your settings. Also, Snagit is a great tool for taking screenshots. that would be my 1st choice for saving the screen.
Good ideas! Thanks for watching!
@@KirbyMeetsAudio I just "save as" something else, at regular points.
This great 👍👍
Hello, I bought a speaker without frequency response data or graph but I want to use vituixcad for my crossover design.
How can I measure the frequency response?
Can you make a video about measuring or reading the frequency response of a speaker?
Hi dude. I`m about to change comp. driver from 16 ohm (25watt), in 8 ohm(60watt). Can you tell me, what should i change in my crossover to make the new comp. driver sound well? Thanx.
I realy enjoy you video's, and now i want to buld speakers miself. But i think i have a problem! I download VituixCAD, but Scanspeak do not have the files to add in the program. Is there a way arround it??
Please do a reverse polarity config of the tweeter if there's a good dip. :) Learned it from Audio Judgement.
thanks for sharing, but there is a trojan report when I install the version 2 XO software.....
Canned air under the cast helps with itch
OHHHHHH do I know it! My compressors been getting some work in. Thanks for watching!
Hello. Can you make a 3 way ( woofer-midrange-tweeter ) flat passive monitor crossover diagram? I will use it for recording, mixing and mastering in my music studio. How do we draw the circuit diagram in a flat way?
Hi. Great video. Many many years ago I built a pair of speakers. Two tweeters, two mid range and two bass speakers in each cabinet. I knew nothing about electronics then and still today and asked somebody else to build crossovers for me. The result was a dominant mid range and weak bass and weak tweeter range. Exactly the opposite what I wanted to achieve. I was looking for much more bass and tweeter and very little mid range. I would now like to correct the faulty crossovers. Could you help me with the correct design? Thanks.
The resistor in series with the inductor is not an actual discreet component ... It is a virtual component that represents the dc resistance (R) of the inductor ...Gauge of wire determines the amount of power you can pass through it without burning it up ...
Which componant in passive crossover decided, what speaker watt to be used at output?
Hola. Hace como 20 años empecé a fabricar crossovers de 3 y 4 vías de 2o orden de manera manual, fabricando también los embobinados con las formulas Butterworth pero desde hace como 5 años empecé con las formulas Linkwitz par obtener una mejor respuesta pero lo que ahora veo con estos softwares me tienen realmente asombrado. Esto es una maravilla para mi. Gracias.
Hello. About 20 years ago I started manufacturing 3 and 4-way 2nd order crossovers manually, also manufacturing the windings with the Butterworth formulas, but about 5 years ago I started with the Linkwitz formulas to obtain a better response, but what I now see with These softwares have really amazed me. This is a wonder for me. Thank you.
I want to build a bluetooth Speaker with 2 Dayton PS95-8 and a Dayton RS150-8 powered by a TPA3116 Amp board. I'm not quite shure, if i need a crossover or if it's build in the Amp.
Hi. Cau you tell me the start point and finish point. For a prv 10w650A 8ohm he range from 55 to 5k5. But i know i can't give all thats freq.
Would you consider building 7 crossovers for shipping to the UK? Cheers👍🏻
Can you see the phase? I saw in another video how having two speakers connected properly can create phase issues. Sometime you have to connect a speaker out of phase so the phase will align.
One question. I have two woofers 550w/8omh and two tweeters 120w/8ohm in my house. can i build one speaker with them? they have potencies (watt) very differents... sorry my bad english
That dip in the mids at the 21 minute mark is, in my opinion, what a midrange speaker is for. Bandpass something like a 3.5 inch speaker from 300-500 to 3500hz or so and then don't choke the tweeter as much.
Either that, or nix both it and the tweeter for a 2" or 2.5" widebander. Also the fewer the speakers, the more on axis they have to be.
very helpful video . If you show me how to import from rew measurement to vituixcad will be greatful.
There are a lot of Xover design software or online calculator now, back in my day, I keep using 1/(2*pi*freq*r) for basic tweeter Xover and R/(2.Pi.Freq) for woofer, now I nearly forgot how to calculate without software....
Hello, Im trying to cross the Dayton ND16FA tweeter with the Dayton ND105-4 Midbass driver and the tweeter makes the grey combination line super crazy. I cant get the line to be nearly as smooth as in your example video. It looks like a lie detector test. Do you have any advice in this area? Should I worry about it?
Hey Kirby, these videos got me started, thanks so much! I notice you didn’t address phase and I’m sure you left this out intentionally. It’s my understanding that a second order crossover will shift the low frequency phase by 180 degrees. Do you just switch the polarity of the woofer to accommodate this? And do you do anything to align the acoustic centers of the drivers?
In theory - yes.
In practice - not always.
Sometimes the phase response matches better when non-inverted, sometimes it doesn't match at all. Always check under angle too.
This is gold!! Thank you, going to go design now!
I did industrial electronic in college and should took audio electronic. I really learn something this evening. Thanks you Kirby!
That's awesome! Thanks for watching!
The reason the frequency response of the woofer and teeter don't blend well is bc the teeter and woofer are 180 deg out of phase from each other.
One trick to always check is invert the tweeter. Sometimes that help the transition band response to invert the tweeter.
This applies to active fillers too.
I noticed this when looking at a GR Research upgrade kit for a Klipsch RP-600M. The tweeter terminal was inverted. That threw me all the way off! Thanks for this clarification.
I have a focal crossover that was wired with five wires is there anyway I can send you the picture to tell me
what I need to do ? thanks.
Nice
Are you using 9dB baffle step compensation?
Brilliant tutorial Kirby. Never realised this stuff was available. Need to bone up to get comfortable with the software so that I'm not fumbling in the dark with fingers crossed. I wonder if that's why I've always preferred full range drivers. Great stuff, most in-depth and potentially useful of your videos.
Cheers from Australia. Martin
this is a cool video except for 1) the program UI has changed and 2) I want to be able to reverse-engineer a proaudio amp I have to change the internal crossovers.
What is the ideal center channel crossover .. I've read you don't want low end bass . for the last year I've been learning to build higher end audio cabinets thing is I'm also a starving artist lol. Using drivers I find at thrift stores .. And any on put on free soft ware would be appreciated
what's your final crossover design and parts look like?
Very nice video!
If we don't have this file to the programme ,how can I use it?
Where can you get spec files for drivers that aren't Dayton? No other manufacturers seem to have them.
You either have to create them yourself by conducting measurements of the drivers, or you use the built-in tool that lets you import the data from images of graph data
Trace the graphs given by the manufacturer, but neither are going to give you the best graphs to work with. Actually assembling the speaker, then measuring the drivers using dats will take into account the fact that they are now sitting Inside your actual speaker. Thats why professional crossover designers, don't start the crossover until the speaker design is complete. You gotta have a speaker to give them for them to give you the best results. Not just drivers.
wouldn't it have been cool if kirbert told us this? Thanks Moto
I'll have to fiddle about with this software. It would be great for making enhanced crossovers for my Minimus 7's without using someone else's design. So far the best I've done to them was upgrade the woofers and the capacitors for the tweeters. :)
Nice! If you've changed out the woofers, you'll probably hear an improvement with a crossover designed specifically for them. Thanks for watching!
They sounded great when I was listening to them but my stereo receiver is from the 70's. Being old it started acting up when I lasted used it. So I haven't used it for months. I need to take it apart and fix it but I'm a bit afraid of making it worse. I'd love to eventually upgrade and replace all of the capacitors & resistors in it.
The woofers I used were Dayton Audio PC105-8's, so I'll have to see if I can get some bass out of them when I'm able to make crossovers. I mainly bought them because they were affordable, looked good, and fit the Minimus 7 boxes without mods. For having no bass they sound fabulous when paired with a subwoofer. :)
so cool is there software like this for mac....
Hello, I´ve been looking for software similar to Vituix for a Mac, but I can´t find anything. Do you know where can I find something? Thank you!
Hey man,huge fan right here!Really loving this series!I ve been meaning to ask you,what would you do if you designed a reference monitor for mixing?In this example,would you add something to eliminate the bump in the low frequencies?Is that enough or am I missing something?
Keep up the good work!!!
Yeah, my goal with reference monitors would be for the flattest response possible. I've never built reference monitor specific speaker before, so maybe someone else can chime in with other things to keep in mind. Thanks for watching!
Kirby Meets Audio Thank you for the response!I'll try looking more into it!
With this design, as he said he wants to keep the cost down... but if you can swing an extra $5-6 dollars per speakers in extra crossover components, you could have a flatter response and the off axis response in the crossover region would be much better. As for the hump in the low end, I guessing that once its in an enclosure it will disappear.
@@attainableaudio7130 Would you say that the mid bass area tends to decrease when the woofer is put in a box? And if so, is that only when inside a room or outside? What type of curve should i aim for if i want it to sound flat in a livingroom type area?
Great video but what if you have the TS parms but not the files?Can they be derived with DATS?
Is it possible to load your own FRD/ZMA files onto Vituixcad? Bought drivers and cannot find any detail on them except they are been used by Jamo.
Ive been using the v2 version of the program. If I hit Ctrl+Z it undos the changes. You can also undo the changes in the optimizer, there is an undo button.
For some reason I can’t find the ZMA filter option in the files. Should I be doing something first?
I always get caught up thinking about the phase response of each speaker. That must have a big impact at and around the cross-over point.
Could the hump in the response on the low end be that baffle step response has not been taken into account? How do you know how wide the test baffle the woofer response files were taken on? If the woofer was mounted in say a 2ft x 2ft baffle, there would be very little baffle step response. Then when you mount it on a 6" wide baffle in the finished box, there would be significant roll off on the low end. Does the response files provided by Dayton specify the baffle width their tests are made on?
I built a 4 way speaker system. Music is in 4 levels for bass for Body, low mid for Warmth, high mids for Presence, and tweeters for Brilliance. I have 8 ohm speakers, but the Marantz receiver must have 8 ohm impedance. 4 speakers at 8 ohm parallel would be 2 ohms and fry the receiver finals. So, 2 speakers in series is 16 ohm, and another set of two for 16 ohm, when paralleled equal 8 ohms. I put the woofer in series with the tweeter using capacitors and coils to get low frequencies to the 12 inch woofer and highs to the 3.5 inch tweeter. The other set is 8 inch low mid in series with a 5 inch for high mids. I have acoustic suspension cabinets. The sound I get from the speakers is crisp and natural. Orchestra music is the most difficult to replicate, and these speakers sound as close to being there as the $1000+ speaker systems will. Yes, there was a lot of engineering used to calculate everything, starting with free air resonance of each speaker.
Hi Kirby ,
does the free software used in your video work for Australian conditions eg ,,240volts, 10amps at 50hz