I hope Kevin is still employed by Eastwood, he is the single reason why I trust Eastwood products! Honest and everyday guy. I like watching his videos. Especially as a former paint and body guy who hasn't been in the profession for a minute or two. Kevin reminds me of sound practices I have to admit that I forgot . . . especially when I'm working on my personal hobby/ stuff.
As an old biker (69), when you talked about thick Bondo, you didn't mention the trick we used for our frames, which flex and crack the fill: multiple layers, with slightly decreasing the hardener, so the base material would be very slightly harder than the outer layer(s), allowing it to flex a little and not crack. I'm sure you know of this, but that's how we.used to garage-build 'em. Long ago! 😮
As a professional, this series of videos are the most informative with the most efficient ways. Thank you so much. I am able to show my coworkers these to show them the correct process.
He is so right about wearing protective gear, and proper ventilation. I built a paint booth to paint my old 64 GP.. I didn't have any ventilation ; I almost gas myself to death. I was dizzy, from no ventilation. So take care.
Sub frame connectors will solve a lot of the body flex problems and give you a lot more options on what you could use to fill body lines. They are very cheap for most cars and most even have a option of bolt on for those who do not weld or want to. To me sub frame connectors are a must for any unibody car, just to help with keeping or fixing door aliments is priceless.
Thanks Kevin, lots of valuable knowledge for a 'greenhorn' like me, I am burning my food on the grill because I can't pull away from this broadcast !!! John
When your mixing body filler with the hardener, you not only want to mix it good, but good and fast! After that you need to cover the entire area you just sanded down to bare metal. It's important just to get the filler on there first and then you can work on making it look neat and smooth.
As an old school hot rodder, you can also use thinner, it does the same thing, instead of caving and paving, it's more important to get as much metal out as you can then you spend less time laying the mud... More metal less plastic, face it who the hell likes sanding plastic..lol I have been painting and doing body work for over 30yrs..
@@eastwoodco Same! I'll be buying the epoxy 2k primer to put on (VHT) 1k filling primer. Great product variety. Paint supplier in the Netherlands vouches for you guys! Hoping for no bad romance with VHT hahaha
It has been a few years ago, but my auto body instructor had planned to show the class I graduated from some of Kevin Tetz videos! My auto body instructor has been in this field for 25+ years. Kevin Tetz really has some great videos and I enjoy them. When he says a paint pattern should look like a "football" shape (somewhat)... he is right. It takes experience to get the right air pressure and then the speed of moving the paint gun, and how you overlap. Many instructors do not teach that. I know with painting a vehicle, you have to go faster than primer. If not, there will be "orange peel" like a mofo! Then you need to get your distance correct from the tip of your spray gun to the object you are painting. Main thing is distance, shape, and speed once you get your paint mixed correctly. I'm not a know it all! God knows I have messed up on painting. I'm just telling you guys some stuff that you probably won't hear on most videos.
I've always used the Evercoat Lite Weight. It hasn't failed on me yet. Main thing, and I hate to sound redundant, but keep body filler as minimal as possible. A 16th- 8th of an inch thick. Use the blower to expose the "pin holes". Repeat as necessary and then apply the icing.
That was awesome..plain and simple. Straight forward tricks from those in the know. You had mentioned a class or something...education.. how do I did more information regarding this!!
1:26 Use a fine cheese grater to shape the first coat. Catch the bondo at the "rubbery stage" and it shapes easily. Recoat and then sand with an 8 inch orbital or air board. Kevin does a good job here.. practice practice practice
Great video ,Why do you use the glazing putty on something You already filled & why dont I see that many people using it Is there a specific application for its use
P. S. . Should I use sand my sand blasting gun on the rust? Great series of how to, by you guys. I will be clicking in from now on. Thanks for the great things you guys do. Please keep up the great work.!
Im curious the filler manufacturer usually specified to apply to raw metal not on top of an epoxy primer. Shouldnt we follow what manufacturer specs? Thanks!
Subscribed. This info will be help on my upcoming mustang project. Replacement inner fender panels and fill in some holes from EFI system. Any pointers as to doing the tight areas under the hood of a foxbody mustang?
I’m a DIY newbie so I apologize if my questions sound stupid. You started at bare metal but you blocked your filler back down to bare metal at the top. So what’s the purpose of Filler ? Can you lay Primer on sanded bare metal portions? What happens if you do? Also, can you better explain the use of a Guide coat? What am I looking for after I apply guide coat as I’m blocking?
Carmelo M You need to try your best not to sand where the paint is but if you do as long as it’s blended in and feels even with the rest of the panel. The fact that the top bare metal portion is sanded eliminates the need for and adhesion promoter so yes you can spray primer on the bare metal and the body filler.
Carmelo M as far as the guide coat I like to use it as my last step before my last sanding with 180 if you spray a guide coat (black spray paint will do) and block-sand over the panel evenly if you see any spray paint after you went over the whole panel then those are your low spots. Now if they are big areas with black paint you might want to go with another coat of filler if they are tiny specs here and there I fill those with a putty and then re sand. Keep in mind if you go extra hard and forget to stay even with the whole panel you will sand the guide coat off defeats the purpose and then you will surely have dips in the panel hope that helps. If you use a guide coat in early steps it helps you know if you hit every part of the panel but remember to keep the block even and not to dig out holes trying to eliminate the guide coat because in the beginning stages it’s never a flat panel always will be dips and grooves that’s why I save the guide coat for last step when I got the panels straight and pretty much just blocking 180 to get rid or the 80 scratches
Id like to note that you have to buy ABEK1 mask filter if you work at home and dont want to get dizzy. You have to deal with various vapors in the process
Never heard someone say that gloves increase dexterity. When I sand body work, I purposely have one bare hand so I can better feel if I have any areas that have ridges.
I’m have a 1980 z28 Camaro I’m restoring. Thinking of doing the body work and paint myself. Is it best to trip paint with a chemical like aircraft remover, or sand to bare metal
Now, I’m more confused. Why are laying glazing putty over the filler? Could you have just used glazing putty over the bare metal portions? When using Filler is bare metal required? If I’m just doing a deep scratch repair or fixing base coat runs, do I use filler or glazing putty? Also, when should I use a cheese 🧀 grinder tool?
I am thankful for this channel.. I am going to sand back to the original primer.. should I put a epoxy primer on the entire panel before fixing dents, or just go to metal in the dents and epoxy primer the metal before filling dents?
+Shawn Lynch To make sure we fully understand what you're doing and what products you need, please contact an Eastwood Paint Tech so you can discuss your project and make sure you do the job right. www.eastwood.com
+Shawn Lynch Never spray anything even epoxy primer on metal before using any kind of filler. Only use filler on metal or fiberglass. Sport putty can be used on primer, you will need to wet sand the sport putty to get it to be at its best, then prime over it and check to see if the sport putty fixed anything you where trying to fix, like pin holes or small scratches. Good Luck.
Hi, this is Tric. My old 64, G.P's., hood, trunk, and top is just - guess, you call it - flash rusted. It's not eat through, - just rusted from where I sanded it years ago. I sanded it perfectly, but cash stopped any further painting of the old car. My question is - should I use chemicals, to remove the rust, or do you guys think I should sand it back down to the bare metal again by hand, as I did in the past? I will be looking into Eastwood suggestions for help also.
1234tric Without actually seeing the car, but assuming it's basically surface rust with some pits, you will want to remove as much rust as possible with sandpaper, wire brushes or stripping discs. You should then soak the area with Eastwood Fast Etch to remove the rust from the pits. Then wipe with Eastwood PRE Paint Prep and do the bodywork and paint. (Eastwood Contour Filler and Epoxy Primer).
Kevin you mention using "Epoxy" 1st and then using body filler "If you have a late model car with aluminum" What if you have a 40's which is all metal- Do I need to using 'expozy 1st".. 2nd question like most early cars because they were so big it has been damaged underneath the right headlight. ( not real bad) I have pop out most of the dented area. Now I need to shape it like the left side or it will look weird. How do I do that? Is there a contour gauge for shaping? I am a novice and may end up doing the body work myself. This area has no straight lines, like doors and hoods. Why doesn't anyone show working on 40's or earlier cars. Ton of them out there that need help... All I usually see is muscle cars and trucks, these are great cars- but everyone's doing them.. Is that because older 40's or non muscle cars are harder to work on. I can't even find and video on putting in windlace or window channels "on cars- not trucks that old"
Epoxy is great over bare metal and you can then spread body filler. Then spray a high builder primer surfacer to fill any imperfections. Then a "sealer" coat which can be reduced epoxy and then base/single stage and clear. Here are the profile gauges I think you're looking for -www.eastwood.com/adjustable-profile-gauges-5-10-15-inch.html.
Kevin is great and Im sure the Eastwood co is a reliable brand but Id never use 36 for prepping, especially on a car thats going to receive base coat application.
I have a 1964 Pontiac Grand Prix. Rusted over, where I sanded smooth, years ago. I'm going to paint it myself. How can I get rid if the rust and go back to where it was prepared d to be primed. Do you have any shows showing prepping after rusting?
1234tric Depending on how bad the rust is, you can blast it, cut it out or treat it chemically. Eastwood offers many products that can do all of those processes. This is a link to the Rust Solutions page at Eastwood.com and remember you can always talk to an Eastwood Tech who can help you select the correct product. www.eastwood.com/paints/rust-solutions.html
The average DIYer will not use glazing putty and the veteran guys will say that's just lazy. It covers imperfections and scratches from sanding. Since he used 36 grit it became mandatory to use glazing putty. It's near 2021 and most DIYers don't need glazing putty.
I want to know how I should sand two panels on my car to get the sides of my car as smooth as possible... I have a mustang and I'm unsure if I should sand over the fender and door at the same time or focus only on the door, then the fender...
a "cheese grater" or open wood rasp will knock down that excess in a flash, takes a little practice though. if it gets out of shape it will tear deep groves in the mud.
Yes but I would like more on metal prep when its been acid died were its bare metal mt big problem is bond I get it either not setten up very good or its harden to quick
Have body experts stopped using the filler rasp (aka cheese grater)? I don’t see it in videos anywhere. Just seems expensive and wasteful to using 36 grit sandpaper
You want fine powder as it will go into the scratches. It might work but you have to make sure it goes deep into the scratches or else when you go to prime, the scratches will still show up and wont fill properly
the best thing to do is stick with one system right through to paint. In any system what will work over what, is all figured out. If you use many different companies products you can end up with bad reactions from incompatible chemicals. And this stuff ain't cheap!
Man, I jus came from 2. I'm new, never done any body work, ever. Never ever. I got this old metal tool that was my grandad's. I took it when he died, which is how it's mine lol. Anyways. My tool box was stolen from work an I gotta have a tool box. So I went out to my shop and pretty much replaced my set all but a new things that I picked up. Just until I go buy all new ones so I'll still have 2 sets. Ive been using my grandad's tool box. It's pretty old. Couldn't say how old but at least 50 something years old. It's got some holes on the body. Lil pin holes mostly, Biggest hole is maybe as big as the screw hole on the hinges of your kitchen cabinets. I sanded it down to metal and spread some body filler Bondo across the bottom which I'm gonna sand it back down an try again because it honestly looks like a 5 year old did it. Do I need to get some of the stuff you put on second? The blue stuff? It's a tool box so I jus need to know if I can prime it and paint it with just the body filler and get away with it? 👌
Tough to tell without seeing the repair. Body filler should be pretty darn smooth after sanding. The glazing putty will help fill in any pinholes or deep sanding scratches. If those are your issues, try the putty out. You're right though, filler is very forgiving. You can always sand it down and try again. Something to consider: are you able to weld a patch panel into the affected area? It would certainly be a stronger repair if you could get away with it.
@@eastwoodco no I don't have anything that I could patch it up with. Every thing i have is too thick and the box is too thin. I tried to mig weld the holes but it's so thin it basically just blows through. I don't have a tig. What I ended up doing after watching your videos was sand it down .. waaay down. an it brought out all the spots I messed up or completely missed lol. Also twice I think I used too much hardener so I had to add a little filler to it. That's gotta be a learning curve I think 🤣. Today since I'm off work I went out to the shop and tried again. It looks a lot better than the 1st time. My problem is how fast it sets off. Should I turn the heat up in my shop? Turn it down, maybe? Idk seems like it happens really quick
Earl Wilson thanks wilson. But do i use heat gun to heat it up? my shop dont use highbuild primer! Another question can you wet sand the putty, size of putty is 1/8" by 1/4" inch.
before i wet sand,i have it sanded down with 400 grit,,than i wet sand it with 800 grit,any finer than that,your primmer will have a hard time to grip,,if you donnt use a good quaity primmer,your paint could fade into your body fill,,i learnted that the costly way...soak your wet paper for 20 min. if possable lightly mess the body filler,sand fast,wipe it off with a clean rag,air dry it with your air hose,if you use your heat gun ,i always have my left hand on the car,to feel the heat,you want to warm it dry, not burn it,,get it to hot body fill might lift in time down the road,i hope this helps you,,and wear a MASK when theres dust or flumes,,,your lungs will thank you years down the road,[no mask ,not cool ] copd in lungs will kill you slow and painfully,i have it....smart is spelled MASK have fun.
Can you go over the epoxy primer to filler again. You said I have 5 days for the chemical bond but after that can I just scuff with 36 and use filler or did you say it has to be sanded to bare metal for the bond. Thanks
I hope Kevin is still employed by Eastwood, he is the single reason why I trust Eastwood products! Honest and everyday guy. I like watching his videos. Especially as a former paint and body guy who hasn't been in the profession for a minute or two. Kevin reminds me of sound practices I have to admit that I forgot . . . especially when I'm working on my personal hobby/ stuff.
Glad you enjoy the content!
I caught ole kev in the bathroom at sema 2012 with an older gentleman have a deep conversation so I'm not sure about ole kev little fruity
They fired him 😊🎉
@@angelseliteautodetailing he left to persue other opportunities
As an old biker (69), when you talked about thick Bondo, you didn't mention the trick we used for our frames, which flex and crack the fill: multiple layers, with slightly decreasing the hardener, so the base material would be very slightly harder than the outer layer(s), allowing it to flex a little and not crack.
I'm sure you know of this, but that's how we.used to garage-build 'em.
Long ago! 😮
As a professional, this series of videos are the most informative with the most efficient ways. Thank you so much. I am able to show my coworkers these to show them the correct process.
Great to hear!
I like your filler application tool. Especially when you said ; Scoring it and seperate it from the whole!.😂😊
He is so right about wearing protective gear, and proper ventilation. I built a paint booth to paint my old 64 GP.. I didn't have any ventilation ; I almost gas myself to death. I was dizzy, from no ventilation. So take care.
Don't forget to Subscribe to our RUclips Channel to get all of our great How-To videos! Are YOU an Eastwood Guy?
this guy is great explaining step by step.
Amen !! I was going to say same.... I like Kevin cause he is passionate and clearly been around the biz his whole life ....
Sub frame connectors will solve a lot of the body flex problems and give you a lot more options on what you could use to fill body lines. They are very cheap for most cars and most even have a option of bolt on for those who do not weld or want to. To me sub frame connectors are a must for any unibody car, just to help with keeping or fixing door aliments is priceless.
The filler technique is invaluable! Great Job Kevin!
Thanks Kevin, lots of valuable knowledge for a 'greenhorn' like me, I am burning my food on the grill because I can't pull away from this broadcast !!! John
This is great! I have learned so much through your vids. Keep up the good work.
When your mixing body filler with the hardener, you not only want to mix it good, but good and fast! After that you need to cover the entire area you just sanded down to bare metal. It's important just to get the filler on there first and then you can work on making it look neat and smooth.
Thanks for the information
i am going to use this info to help me even out the hail dents on my 1965 ford truck
I went to the trade school this year for Collision Repair, we're working on car hoods right now I love it :)
Is Kevin still at eastwood? These old videos are priceless. He's entertaining
As an old school hot rodder, you can also use thinner, it does the same thing, instead of caving and paving, it's more important to get as much metal out as you can then you spend less time laying the mud... More metal less plastic, face it who the hell likes sanding plastic..lol I have been painting and doing body work for over 30yrs..
Thinner also helps heating and drying the filler right?😊
Thank you so much for all that you do brother ! Great job, as usual !
i like the way you show us the tricks. my weakest is body work the paint job is only as good as the body work thank you and eastwood
Thanks for the vids, I'm buying all Eastwood products from now on
Awesome. Love to hear from Real Eastwood Guys!
@@eastwoodco Same! I'll be buying the epoxy 2k primer to put on (VHT) 1k filling primer.
Great product variety. Paint supplier in the Netherlands vouches for you guys! Hoping for no bad romance with VHT hahaha
@@amiesports spraying primer is for us good ole boys, u better stick to the original plan of the ballgame
Steve Zahn...I didn't know you could be such a versatile actor.
It has been a few years ago, but my auto body instructor had planned to show the class I graduated from some of Kevin Tetz videos! My auto body instructor has been in this field for 25+ years. Kevin Tetz really has some great videos and I enjoy them. When he says a paint pattern should look like a "football" shape (somewhat)... he is right. It takes experience to get the right air pressure and then the speed of moving the paint gun, and how you overlap. Many instructors do not teach that. I know with painting a vehicle, you have to go faster than primer. If not, there will be "orange peel" like a mofo! Then you need to get your distance correct from the tip of your spray gun to the object you are painting. Main thing is distance, shape, and speed once you get your paint mixed correctly. I'm not a know it all! God knows I have messed up on painting. I'm just telling you guys some stuff that you probably won't hear on most videos.
I've always used the Evercoat Lite Weight. It hasn't failed on me yet. Main thing, and I hate to sound redundant, but keep body filler as minimal as possible. A 16th- 8th of an inch thick. Use the blower to expose the "pin holes". Repeat as necessary and then apply the icing.
at 6.52 when feeling the surface...he looks away which instantly bring "touch" into it...fantastic
That was awesome..plain and simple. Straight forward tricks from those in the know. You had mentioned a class or something...education.. how do I did more information regarding this!!
Paintucation....
“Feelin Stevie Wonderish”. Haha! You do a great job at this, man.
1:26 Use a fine cheese grater to shape the first coat. Catch the bondo at the "rubbery stage" and it shapes easily. Recoat and then sand with an 8 inch orbital or air board. Kevin does a good job here.. practice practice practice
great video Kevin, and appreciate your sence of humor
You're awesome dude !!! Thanks ! We love you man !
Your videos are top notch and informative. Great job!
I like this guy. Good presentation style.
Great video ,Why do you use the glazing putty on something You already filled & why dont I see that many people using it Is there a specific application for its use
When he wants to go to town😂; He goes on circles like a tornado and hurricane!😂😅😊
I use like a generous to clean my spreaders and to get rid of residue,great job..
Hiya, thanks very much for showing us this very helpful
went way to far down with the 36 grit... now you got raw medal around it.... no matter what you do you gotta fill all that in
I loke how he said, " they call it body work for a reason."😊
I like to know more on auto body sandin and prep work on hard to get area on a frame off restore
P. S. . Should I use sand my sand blasting gun on the rust? Great series of how to, by you guys. I will be clicking in from now on. Thanks for the great things you guys do. Please keep up the great work.!
Im curious the filler manufacturer usually specified to apply to raw metal not on top of an epoxy primer. Shouldnt we follow what manufacturer specs? Thanks!
I bet this guy used to have a mullet!!!
Subscribed. This info will be help on my upcoming mustang project. Replacement inner fender panels and fill in some holes from EFI system. Any pointers as to doing the tight areas under the hood of a foxbody mustang?
I’m a DIY newbie so I apologize if my questions sound stupid. You started at bare metal but you blocked your filler back down to bare metal at the top. So what’s the purpose of Filler ? Can you lay Primer on sanded bare metal portions? What happens if you do? Also, can you better explain the use of a Guide coat? What am I looking for after I apply guide coat as I’m blocking?
Carmelo M You need to try your best not to sand where the paint is but if you do as long as it’s blended in and feels even with the rest of the panel. The fact that the top bare metal portion is sanded eliminates the need for and adhesion promoter so yes you can spray primer on the bare metal and the body filler.
Carmelo M as far as the guide coat I like to use it as my last step before my last sanding with 180 if you spray a guide coat (black spray paint will do) and block-sand over the panel evenly if you see any spray paint after you went over the whole panel then those are your low spots. Now if they are big areas with black paint you might want to go with another coat of filler if they are tiny specs here and there I fill those with a putty and then re sand. Keep in mind if you go extra hard and forget to stay even with the whole panel you will sand the guide coat off defeats the purpose and then you will surely have dips in the panel hope that helps. If you use a guide coat in early steps it helps you know if you hit every part of the panel but remember to keep the block even and not to dig out holes trying to eliminate the guide coat because in the beginning stages it’s never a flat panel always will be dips and grooves that’s why I save the guide coat for last step when I got the panels straight and pretty much just blocking 180 to get rid or the 80 scratches
What Brand name of aerosol cleaner are you using?
Most people don’t understand that it takes proper PREP /prime/. Prep will make or break your job !
Id like to note that you have to buy ABEK1 mask filter if you work at home and dont want to get dizzy. You have to deal with various vapors in the process
Are YOU an Eastwood Guy? Check out this video from Eastwood to find out: Little Kid with a Sawzall - Cutting a Cake - Are You an Eastwood Guy?
Epoxy is a steel sealer just like clear coat seals the oaint job!😊
Is there any difference between red and blue cream hardener for the filler other than just the color? Any reason to use one over the other?
Tape a square and remove when ready for 320 grit to 400 grit (ready for paint to avoid sanding outside of square to remove 36 grit scratches)
Hey Kevin I’m prepping my old car do you ever use wet and dry sandpaper to Finnish your primer off
Never heard someone say that gloves increase dexterity. When I sand body work, I purposely have one bare hand so I can better feel if I have any areas that have ridges.
Awesome.. Where did he get those hand?
I’m have a 1980 z28 Camaro I’m restoring. Thinking of doing the body work and paint myself. Is it best to trip paint with a chemical like aircraft remover, or sand to bare metal
Now, I’m more confused. Why are laying glazing putty over the filler? Could you have just used glazing putty over the bare metal portions? When using Filler is bare metal required? If I’m just doing a deep scratch repair or fixing base coat runs, do I use filler or glazing putty? Also, when should I use a cheese 🧀 grinder tool?
I am thankful for this channel.. I am going to sand back to the original primer.. should I put a epoxy primer on the entire panel before fixing dents, or just go to metal in the dents and epoxy primer the metal before filling dents?
+Shawn Lynch To make sure we fully understand what you're doing and what products you need, please contact an Eastwood Paint Tech so you can discuss your project and make sure you do the job right. www.eastwood.com
+Shawn Lynch Never spray anything even epoxy primer on metal before using any kind of filler. Only use filler on metal or fiberglass. Sport putty can be used on primer, you will need to wet sand the sport putty to get it to be at its best, then prime over it and check to see if the sport putty fixed anything you where trying to fix, like pin holes or small scratches. Good Luck.
+ROBERT CAMMARATA never leave the shop with any bare metal exposed.
thanks from Ireland
Epoxy is a steel sealer just like clear coat seals the oaint job!😊
Flash-Rust?:
AKA; Temperature Cracks on the Filler,Primer,Paint and Clear-Coat:😂😊❤
Hi, this is Tric. My old 64, G.P's., hood, trunk, and top is just - guess, you call it - flash rusted. It's not eat through, - just rusted from where I sanded it years ago. I sanded it perfectly, but cash stopped any further painting of the old car. My question is - should I use chemicals, to remove the rust, or do you guys think I should sand it back down to the bare metal again by hand, as I did in the past? I will be looking into Eastwood suggestions for help also.
1234tric Without actually seeing the car, but assuming it's basically surface rust with some pits, you will want to remove as much rust as possible with sandpaper, wire brushes or stripping discs. You should then soak the area with Eastwood Fast Etch to remove the rust from the pits. Then wipe with Eastwood PRE Paint Prep and do the bodywork and paint. (Eastwood Contour Filler and Epoxy Primer).
what other common solvents can be used to get that stickiness off the filler before sanding? could denatured alcohol work okay?
+hondamxbmx692 benzine or just prepsol
Kevin you mention using "Epoxy" 1st and then using body filler "If you have a late model car with aluminum" What if you have a 40's which is all metal- Do I need to using 'expozy 1st".. 2nd question like most early cars because they were so big it has been damaged underneath the right headlight. ( not real bad) I have pop out most of the dented area. Now I need to shape it like the left side or it will look weird. How do I do that? Is there a contour gauge for shaping? I am a novice and may end up doing the body work myself. This area has no straight lines, like doors and hoods. Why doesn't anyone show working on 40's or earlier cars. Ton of them out there that need help... All I usually see is muscle cars and trucks, these are great cars- but everyone's doing them.. Is that because older 40's or non muscle cars are harder to work on. I can't even find and video on putting in windlace or window channels "on cars- not trucks that old"
Epoxy is great over bare metal and you can then spread body filler. Then spray a high builder primer surfacer to fill any imperfections. Then a "sealer" coat which can be reduced epoxy and then base/single stage and clear. Here are the profile gauges I think you're looking for -www.eastwood.com/adjustable-profile-gauges-5-10-15-inch.html.
This dude/series is great
This guy is the energetic version of bob Ross for body work
Kevin is great and Im sure the Eastwood co is a reliable brand but Id never use 36 for prepping, especially on a car thats going to receive base coat application.
Hello thanks. Kevin why do not sanding wet ????
is the pre painting prep virtually brake clean?
Is it ok to use body filler on a old 1986 Chevrolet c10 custom deluxe truck if needed too?
Less is more. Do as much body work as possible, then apply filler..
@@santeebandit3246 I started on my 1986 Chevrolet Silverado custom deluxe today it turned out pretty great actually
Moped Coin nice! That’s all that matters in the end!
@@santeebandit3246 true that
I keep a clean wire brush on hand to clean the filler out of my 36 grit paper
I have a 1964 Pontiac Grand Prix. Rusted over, where I sanded smooth, years ago. I'm going to paint it myself. How can I get rid if the rust and go back to where it was prepared d to be primed. Do you have any shows showing prepping after rusting?
1234tric Depending on how bad the rust is, you can blast it, cut it out or treat it chemically. Eastwood offers many products that can do all of those processes. This is a link to the Rust Solutions page at Eastwood.com and remember you can always talk to an Eastwood Tech who can help you select the correct product. www.eastwood.com/paints/rust-solutions.html
@paula black burn, just clear coat over the rust and have u s cool rat rod.
The average DIYer will not use glazing putty and the veteran guys will say that's just lazy. It covers imperfections and scratches from sanding. Since he used 36 grit it became mandatory to use glazing putty. It's near 2021 and most DIYers don't need glazing putty.
I want to know how I should sand two panels on my car to get the sides of my car as smooth as possible... I have a mustang and I'm unsure if I should sand over the fender and door at the same time or focus only on the door, then the fender...
good explaination..
What using a rounded cheese grader for shaping or was the filler too thin ?
a "cheese grater" or open wood rasp will knock down that excess in a flash, takes a little practice though. if it gets out of shape it will tear deep groves in the mud.
This guy demo's a cheese grater really well:
ruclips.net/video/koMw6-auoIs/видео.html
Does guide coat come in gray or white color?
Yes but I would like more on metal prep when its been acid died were its bare metal mt big problem is bond I get it either not setten up very good or its harden to quick
I wood like how to work with fiberglass body repair please
Got an s10 with rattle can paint looking to automotive paint where do I start
Down-Draft Vacuum and Down-Force Fan to push light-weight materials from inhaled or ingested in our lungs or body.😊
Thanks Buddy:😊
Can use a cheese grater to file it down so you don’t need to sand so much with 36.
Yes, I don't use a 36 at all. Cheese grater then 80
I will like to work with you this is what I do for a living
How can U feel the dint if there is a high/ low spot with gloves on??????
Can you use prepsall to clean the top of the Bondo
kevin looks like Dexter..tonights the night :)
This is Dexter's version of witness protection.
Have body experts stopped using the filler rasp (aka cheese grater)? I don’t see it in videos anywhere. Just seems expensive and wasteful to using 36 grit sandpaper
Here ya go, this guy nails it:
ruclips.net/video/koMw6-auoIs/видео.html
@@MK-ih6wp Thank You!! This video was really good
I like this guy
Remember that polyester primer needs to be completely setup before any primer or paint ! Sometimes several days !
Question: Can I use marking chalk, blue chalk or gym chalk as guide coat?
You want fine powder as it will go into the scratches. It might work but you have to make sure it goes deep into the scratches or else when you go to prime, the scratches will still show up and wont fill properly
What should I do to it to get it ready for painting?
Down-Draft Vacuum and Down-Force Fan to push light-weight materials from inhaled or ingested in our lungs or body.😊
is it ok to use self etch primer then putting epoxy primers on top of the etching primer?
the best thing to do is stick with one system right through to paint. In any system what will work over what, is all figured out. If you use many different companies products you can end up with bad reactions from incompatible chemicals. And this stuff ain't cheap!
can you please name down the filler that you used in the video>?
Good bro thanks
How do i get a straight flat surface over a convex surface like back of tailgate? Thnx
Hit it with your purse
Man, I jus came from 2. I'm new, never done any body work, ever. Never ever. I got this old metal tool that was my grandad's. I took it when he died, which is how it's mine lol. Anyways. My tool box was stolen from work an I gotta have a tool box. So I went out to my shop and pretty much replaced my set all but a new things that I picked up. Just until I go buy all new ones so I'll still have 2 sets. Ive been using my grandad's tool box. It's pretty old. Couldn't say how old but at least 50 something years old. It's got some holes on the body. Lil pin holes mostly, Biggest hole is maybe as big as the screw hole on the hinges of your kitchen cabinets. I sanded it down to metal and spread some body filler Bondo across the bottom which I'm gonna sand it back down an try again because it honestly looks like a 5 year old did it. Do I need to get some of the stuff you put on second? The blue stuff? It's a tool box so I jus need to know if I can prime it and paint it with just the body filler and get away with it? 👌
Tough to tell without seeing the repair. Body filler should be pretty darn smooth after sanding. The glazing putty will help fill in any pinholes or deep sanding scratches. If those are your issues, try the putty out. You're right though, filler is very forgiving. You can always sand it down and try again.
Something to consider: are you able to weld a patch panel into the affected area? It would certainly be a stronger repair if you could get away with it.
@@eastwoodco no I don't have anything that I could patch it up with. Every thing i have is too thick and the box is too thin. I tried to mig weld the holes but it's so thin it basically just blows through. I don't have a tig. What I ended up doing after watching your videos was sand it down .. waaay down. an it brought out all the spots I messed up or completely missed lol. Also twice I think I used too much hardener so I had to add a little filler to it. That's gotta be a learning curve I think 🤣. Today since I'm off work I went out to the shop and tried again. It looks a lot better than the 1st time. My problem is how fast it sets off. Should I turn the heat up in my shop? Turn it down, maybe? Idk seems like it happens really quick
Ive Already epoxy car. Do i have to take to bare metal to use filler? Or can i just scuff epoxy?
You can scuff/sand the epoxy and apply body filler over it. Always check the specs on the products you are using to confirm.
What is that aerosal spray called
what does that called of blue cream?
When would be the right time to use the cheese grader file?
Jackross7_11 on fiberglass filler. I don’t usually use one though. Just low grit on the air tools.
For much quicker putty cure, use a hair dryer. It will work very well.
***** Entire coat of putty dries well, it's not an acrylic primer, base coat or clear coat. Which cannot be dried with hair dryer.
It's a chemical hardener, not a physical hardener.
Question can you wet sand the bondo? one of the prepper in my shop wet sand the body filler often. n i thought bondo absorbs water like a sponge.
Yiru Li no you cannot wetsand body filler it will rust the metal beneath it
if you wet sand b fill,,air dry quit once your done,than heat it lighy ,than spray highbuild right after.Donnt leave it wet
Earl Wilson thanks wilson. But do i use heat gun to heat it up? my shop dont use highbuild primer! Another question can you wet sand the putty, size of putty is 1/8" by 1/4" inch.
before i wet sand,i have it sanded down with 400 grit,,than i wet sand it with 800 grit,any finer than that,your primmer will have a hard time to grip,,if you donnt use a good quaity primmer,your paint could fade into your body fill,,i learnted that the costly way...soak your wet paper for 20 min. if possable lightly mess the body filler,sand fast,wipe it off with a clean rag,air dry it with your air hose,if you use your heat gun ,i always have my left hand on the car,to feel the heat,you want to warm it dry, not burn it,,get it to hot body fill might lift in time down the road,i hope this helps you,,and wear a MASK when theres dust or flumes,,,your lungs will thank you years down the road,[no mask ,not cool ] copd in lungs will kill you slow and painfully,i have it....smart is spelled MASK have fun.
+Yiru Li yes you can but its not ideal.Wet sanding entirely is becoming a method of the past
Can you go over the epoxy primer to filler again. You said I have 5 days for the chemical bond but after that can I just scuff with 36 and use filler or did you say it has to be sanded to bare metal for the bond. Thanks
Yes, you can apply filler over the epoxy, if that's your question. You can also contact an Eastwood Tech to discuss in detail - 800-343-9353.