Excellent vid! Great lighting, narration, explanation, camera angles... very thorough and just what I have been browsing for (after 1.5hrs of junk vids). Please do a follow up on the fuel issue, air pressure, etc.
not only was this very detailed and informative....i love the no nonsense video. so sick of terrible over compressed stock techno music and constant fast edits and telling me to like and subscribe. THANK YOU sir!
Excellent video! I have a couple tips. There is a specific tool for installing internal O-rings in such applications. Search “O-ring installation tool for hydraulic cylinder” second, there is a product called Jet-Lube Marine Moly - Disulfide Lubricating Paste. Even if the grease dries out after a couple decades, the Moly stays and will allow easy removal.
Thanks for the feedback and tips. I’ll check into that tool. As far as the grease, this is a SeaDoo, decades is not even a possibility, haha. Although I don’t do a ton of marine stuff, I’ll grab some of that grease for the ones I do.
Hey, like your video, nicely detailed. Question, I was in the process of doing the same thing, however, how would you by removing the driveshaft that has been locktite to the PTO by the previous owner?
Hmm, why would someone loctite the driveshaft? It’s supposed to be greased. The only way to break Loctite is with heat. Be extremely careful as fiberglass is very flammable and difficult to put out not to mention all the gas fumes in the hull. Unless you’re sure that they put a thread locker in there, is a good chance it could be just rusted or corroded in place but the same fix applies. Heat and penetrating oil.
Great video man. I've got a 99 gti and it's been taking in water this summer. It sits in the water all day every day. Was riding today and the jet oump blew apart the plastic fins are gone and the cone actually spins like it's an impeller. Not sure what happened yet. I'll be replacing the jet pump and the carbon ring soon.
Got it apart and a used pump from a local shop. New carbon seal kit also and Orings for the two small sump holes between the pump and nozzle. Gonna put it all back together, hope it goes well! Thanks again foe the great video.
It broke after I was whipping shitties wide open at 45 m I h haha. I think the extra weight in the hull from the water inside and flipping backwards quick just hammered those poor plastic vanes in the jet pump. I'll try to tone it down riding like a teenager haha.
I got it all back together but like your video the new collar and O-rings would not go over the driveshaft so I ended up reusing the old part and it is sealing still. I think I had water coming in before through the two small rings that are part of the Sump System that go between the jet pump and the nozzle. One of them was half hanging out so I think the jet stream was pushing back up through the tube and into the hull in one of the sump suckered puck things. All good now!!! My wear ring must have been way worse than this new one cuz I've got better throttle response snd 2 mph more top speed.
Great Video, I recently just got myself into jetskis and lucky enough you have the exact same one. Are you avbliw to do a video on how to service this jetski ? I tried to take it into a shop for servicing but they said its too old and they only do newer models lol. Thanks again for the great videos
Cavitation of the prop does not break molecular bonds of oxygen and hydrogen. Only electrolysis would do that. Cavitation causes low pressure vapor -steam bubbles.
You should have checked your engine alignment my friend. If the engine is out of alignment, your drive shaft will bend. Using and engine alignment tool is a must have.
Agreed. I don’t have one and don’t do a lot of these so purchasing one was not really priority. There is not much play in the jet pump but should have done it when I pulled the engine for the rebuild
the shop manual for the aluminum housings say to use Loctite 518 gasket maker and a primer between the pump housing and the venturi. The spec sheet for Loctite 418 is pretty clear that it shouldn't be used on plastics, so is there anything needed between the plastic housing and the venturi?
Between the pump housing and the shoe, there is a neoprene seal on some models or a rubber gasket on others. It is a pretty tight fit between the pump and the venturi but if you’re concerned about it, you could put a light bead of Permatex Gasket maker black or gray.
Great video, however you made it seems so easy, on mine the stainless part of the seal is completely stuck on the shaft and i've been trying to get it out for a few hours now ...
That’s right where I was as far as speed on this ski. I don’t remember rpm. You may be able to alter the top speed by changing the impeller pitch at a cost of acceleration but the gains would be minimal.
So what actually seals the shaft to be watertight? It looks like it is the o rings inside the collar and the pressure of the carbon ring against the collar? It looks like the carbon ring isn't tight enough around the shaft to be water tight.
You hit the nail on the head. The o-rings on the collar and the carbon seal against the collar. The rubber boot is tight and pushes the collar and seal together.
@@restoroosterohv Cool yeah. I was here because my Sea Doo somehow had a complete carbon ring failure yesterday. We were out on the lake, it was making some noise wasn't quite sure what it was. Then a big noise and suddenly the ski had more power again, but then only ran for a few more seconds before it shut down. I think it's totaled though since there is little bits of metal in the oil. Oh well, at least I know how all this works if I get another one.
@@restoroosterohv I'd be curious to know what people look for when inspecting a carbon seal. I looked at it last fall when I had the supercharger out and it all looked fine. And I never got water in the hull. Do you just replace carbon seals on a schedule rather than wait to see something that doesn't look right? I can say about the only thing that might have been a clue was a high pitched whine when I was out about a week ago. I assume maybe the carbon seal was seized to the shaft and it blew apart? There is no carbon seal there anymore ...
Excellent video with a variety of important details. Definitely subscribe! - Questions for you: Not using an exterior mounted driveshaft-lining-up-plate, how confident are you that you've lined-up the driveshaft correctly and what makes you confident that you have? - Thanks!
Thank you for your feedback and support. The alignment plate is not necessary for an R&I of the pump assembly. I did pull the engine on this earlier and that would be a good time to check the alignment but 1) It's not a tool that I own or plan to acquire as I don't do enough of these to warrant such a purchase and 2) I just put it back with the shims as they were so it has to be good enough, haha.
If you can’t get it to free up with penetrating oil and tapping it with a hammer, you will have to sacrifice the boot, the carbon seal and the stainless steel sleeve using a cut off wheel. Be very careful not to cut the driveshaft. Cover the engine forward with a tarp or canvas blanket and Put a fan in the hull to blow the fuel fumes out before and while cutting.
Hello Restorooster.. you can help me please.. My clip is rusty and impossible to pull back for release the C clip even with the extract tools of shaft 😥.. Have you do a tips please ? Thanks 🙏🏻
Soak it soak it soak it with WD-40 or PB Blaster for days. Keep tapping the flange until it starts to break loose. Once you get it apart, replace the flange, clip, boot and seal. Clean the driveshaft completely. Liberally coat the clip and flange area of the shaft with marine grease to avoid this problem in the future. Hope that helps. If you have a heat gun, that could help quicken the process by heating the flange. Avoid open flame like a torch.
@@restoroosterohv many thanks 🙏🏻 . How I can soak it ? Normally we can’t because the boot and seal are just behind . I have put some WD 40 today but I don’t know soak it . Thanks for your reply 🙏🏻 Appreciate 🔥🔥
@@restoroosterohv Ok thanks , i Will put some oil every day .. I have a heat gun too … I can use it on the clip , but the o rings will be melt and glue the shaft with the clip maybe ?
@FredCprod the heat gun should not get it hot enough to melt the O-rings but even if it does, you’re going to replace them as well. The heat will expand the flange and help to loosen the rust
Good video, but it seems like you are missing 2 bumpers on each side of the drive shaft and another o-ring that goes inside the "hat" - 2 inside the hat and 1 (missing) in the outer part of the hat before the clamp
Absolutely. It’s just habit for me to use dielectric grease on the o-rings. As an auto tech, there are places that you wouldn’t want to use a bearing style grease but rather a silicone base. For example when assembling air conditioning systems. Thanks for your feedback.
I have a 2007 Seadoo GTX Wake. I can’t figure it out for the life of me how to take this propulsion pump system off. There is a supercharger on it that I may have to remove just a slide that carbon ring / support ring back & remove that cir clip. I know the bearings are definitely bad, but geez talk about tough. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again all these engineers that design this equipment need to physically work on it first before sending it out to the public.
The carbon seal when it goes bad the boat sinks, did your rebuild solve problem? Otherwise nice video, glad to see DI’s still going. They are now 20 years out of production.
@@brucecooley4170 hey good morning. I haven’t touched them yet. I will be replacing the Carbon seal just to Play it safe. Been house hunting after work + OT. But I will update once its finished. Have a good day.
@@brucecooley4170 I didn’t have any issues with water coming in to begin with, just some light cavitation. I have not lake tested it yet because I am now chasing a no start condition (fuel related). It’s always something with these things…
Fuel pump is a common failure. Also costs in the $800 range last time I looked. There are some aftermarket choices that basically dont work well. The pump has to put out 100+ psi and not draw too many amps current or the charger cant keep up. There is a replaceable filter, but a complete no start is unlikely. Once you get it running , these engines eat spark plugs like crazy.Any high speed miss, just put new plugs in. I have had 2 DI skis for 20+ years with 400 combined hours on them. The 4 stroke Rotax however is a much more reliable engine and will go way more hours trouble free. The DI when its running is very fuel efficient and does run great.
It is not uncommon. Pull the plastic cover over the shaft off and see if water is leaking in through the carbon seal. Check for leaks in your cooling water lines. Be sure your hull drains are tight and secure. Also, check around the inside of the hull for a breach in the fiberglass that could be letting water in.
Hello, well done for your work, I learned a lot. Do you have an email address so I can let you listen to the sound of my jet ski's engine?? THANKS it's for gtx di 2004.
Excellent video with a variety of important details. Definitely subscribe! - Questions for you: Not using an exterior mounted driveshaft-lining-up-plate, how confident are you that you've lined-up the driveshaft correctly and what makes you confident that you have? - Thanks!
Thank you for your support. That is a good question. The alignment plate is one, expensive and I don't do these on the regular. Two, it is not required when pulling the jet pump as it only goes on one way. I did pull the engine in a previous episode and the alignment tool would have been a good thing to do, however, I put all the original shims back where they were so that is the best that will come of that. Haha.
Excellent vid! Great lighting, narration, explanation, camera angles... very thorough and just what I have been browsing for (after 1.5hrs of junk vids). Please do a follow up on the fuel issue, air pressure, etc.
Appreciate all of your kind words and support. Not sure what you are referring to with the fuel issue.
not only was this very detailed and informative....i love the no nonsense video. so sick of terrible over compressed stock techno music and constant fast edits and telling me to like and subscribe. THANK YOU sir!
Thank you for your feedback. To be honest, I do some fast edits and music overlays as well, just no techno, haha.
Thanks for making this informative and well put together video! I'll be attempting this myself in a couple months on my seadoo.
You’re welcome. Thank you for your feedback and support.
Thanks for posting this video. I just used your method of using pry bar and brick (block of wood) to push back the support ring. 😊
Awesome, glad it worked for you too!
You're not cheap. you are smart for straightening out that shaft.
Thank you for your comment and for watching.
Love the brick and pry bar solution for removing the clip....genius 👍
Thank you. If it works, it works.
💪🏿💯💯
very well done. No nonsense, to the point. that is how things get done correctly.
thank ya Sir
Thank you for your feedback and support
Excellent video! I have a couple tips. There is a specific tool for installing internal O-rings in such applications. Search “O-ring installation tool for hydraulic cylinder” second, there is a product called Jet-Lube Marine Moly - Disulfide Lubricating Paste. Even if the grease dries out after a couple decades, the Moly stays and will allow easy removal.
Thanks for the feedback and tips. I’ll check into that tool. As far as the grease, this is a SeaDoo, decades is not even a possibility, haha. Although I don’t do a ton of marine stuff, I’ll grab some of that grease for the ones I do.
Nice video! Thanks for the tips on removing the circlip!
Thank you and you’re welcome
Great video. First time having a ski so im learning a lot about them
Thank you
Thanks for sharing your experience with us 👍👍
You’re welcome. Thank you for your feedback and support.
Nice camera! And nice vid! Thank you!
Thank you for your feedback and support!
Excellent tutorial! Is there any kind of torque spec for the bolts when reassembling the jet-pump?
Thank you. You would need to check your service manual for all of the torque specifications for your particular model as they are all different.
Great video! Thanks for sharing this information ! ❤
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching
Great video. Thanks for making. How can you tell if your carbon seal needs to be replaced?
If you are getting water in the boat through the seals. Thanks for watching and commenting
Hey, like your video, nicely detailed. Question, I was in the process of doing the same thing, however, how would you by removing the driveshaft that has been locktite to the PTO by the previous owner?
Hmm, why would someone loctite the driveshaft? It’s supposed to be greased. The only way to break Loctite is with heat. Be extremely careful as fiberglass is very flammable and difficult to put out not to mention all the gas fumes in the hull. Unless you’re sure that they put a thread locker in there, is a good chance it could be just rusted or corroded in place but the same fix applies. Heat and penetrating oil.
Great video man. I've got a 99 gti and it's been taking in water this summer. It sits in the water all day every day. Was riding today and the jet oump blew apart the plastic fins are gone and the cone actually spins like it's an impeller. Not sure what happened yet. I'll be replacing the jet pump and the carbon ring soon.
Maybe corrosion weakened the pump, maybe the bearings locked up.
Got it apart and a used pump from a local shop. New carbon seal kit also and Orings for the two small sump holes between the pump and nozzle. Gonna put it all back together, hope it goes well! Thanks again foe the great video.
It broke after I was whipping shitties wide open at 45 m I h haha. I think the extra weight in the hull from the water inside and flipping backwards quick just hammered those poor plastic vanes in the jet pump. I'll try to tone it down riding like a teenager haha.
Haha, ride hard!
I got it all back together but like your video the new collar and O-rings would not go over the driveshaft so I ended up reusing the old part and it is sealing still. I think I had water coming in before through the two small rings that are part of the Sump System that go between the jet pump and the nozzle. One of them was half hanging out so I think the jet stream was pushing back up through the tube and into the hull in one of the sump suckered puck things. All good now!!! My wear ring must have been way worse than this new one cuz I've got better throttle response snd 2 mph more top speed.
Great Video, I recently just got myself into jetskis and lucky enough you have the exact same one. Are you avbliw to do a video on how to service this jetski ? I tried to take it into a shop for servicing but they said its too old and they only do newer models lol. Thanks again for the great videos
Thank you for your feedback. I no longer have this ski so there won’t be any more videos on this model unless I end up with another one.
Cavitation of the prop does not break molecular bonds of oxygen and hydrogen. Only electrolysis would do that. Cavitation causes low pressure vapor -steam bubbles.
Thanks for your comment. I am certainly not a scientist but it sounded feasible.
glad I wasn't the only one who caught that.
You should have checked your engine alignment my friend. If the engine is out of alignment, your drive shaft will bend. Using and engine alignment tool is a must have.
Agreed. I don’t have one and don’t do a lot of these so purchasing one was not really priority. There is not much play in the jet pump but should have done it when I pulled the engine for the rebuild
the shop manual for the aluminum housings say to use Loctite 518 gasket maker and a primer between the pump housing and the venturi. The spec sheet for Loctite 418 is pretty clear that it shouldn't be used on plastics, so is there anything needed between the plastic housing and the venturi?
Between the pump housing and the shoe, there is a neoprene seal on some models or a rubber gasket on others. It is a pretty tight fit between the pump and the venturi but if you’re concerned about it, you could put a light bead of Permatex Gasket maker black or gray.
Great video, however you made it seems so easy, on mine the stainless part of the seal is completely stuck on the shaft and i've been trying to get it out for a few hours now ...
You could try a little heat with a heat gun. Don’t use a torch due to fumes and fiberglass burns very quickly
Enjoyed to watch , what is your top rpm on water and your top speed? With same pwc I have 6700 and 50mph, is it possible to get bit more?
That’s right where I was as far as speed on this ski. I don’t remember rpm. You may be able to alter the top speed by changing the impeller pitch at a cost of acceleration but the gains would be minimal.
So what actually seals the shaft to be watertight? It looks like it is the o rings inside the collar and the pressure of the carbon ring against the collar? It looks like the carbon ring isn't tight enough around the shaft to be water tight.
You hit the nail on the head. The o-rings on the collar and the carbon seal against the collar. The rubber boot is tight and pushes the collar and seal together.
@@restoroosterohv Cool yeah. I was here because my Sea Doo somehow had a complete carbon ring failure yesterday. We were out on the lake, it was making some noise wasn't quite sure what it was. Then a big noise and suddenly the ski had more power again, but then only ran for a few more seconds before it shut down. I think it's totaled though since there is little bits of metal in the oil. Oh well, at least I know how all this works if I get another one.
@semosancus5506 that sucks. Sorry to hear that.
@@restoroosterohv I'd be curious to know what people look for when inspecting a carbon seal. I looked at it last fall when I had the supercharger out and it all looked fine. And I never got water in the hull. Do you just replace carbon seals on a schedule rather than wait to see something that doesn't look right? I can say about the only thing that might have been a clue was a high pitched whine when I was out about a week ago. I assume maybe the carbon seal was seized to the shaft and it blew apart? There is no carbon seal there anymore ...
Excellent video with a variety of important details. Definitely subscribe! - Questions for you: Not using an exterior mounted driveshaft-lining-up-plate, how confident are you that you've lined-up the driveshaft correctly and what makes you confident that you have? - Thanks!
Thank you for your feedback and support. The alignment plate is not necessary for an R&I of the pump assembly. I did pull the engine on this earlier and that would be a good time to check the alignment but 1) It's not a tool that I own or plan to acquire as I don't do enough of these to warrant such a purchase and 2) I just put it back with the shims as they were so it has to be good enough, haha.
So my stainless ring is rusted onto my driveshaft. What next?
If you can’t get it to free up with penetrating oil and tapping it with a hammer, you will have to sacrifice the boot, the carbon seal and the stainless steel sleeve using a cut off wheel. Be very careful not to cut the driveshaft. Cover the engine forward with a tarp or canvas blanket and Put a fan in the hull to blow the fuel fumes out before and while cutting.
Hello Restorooster.. you can help me please.. My clip is rusty and impossible to pull back for release the C clip even with the extract tools of shaft 😥.. Have you do a tips please ? Thanks 🙏🏻
Soak it soak it soak it with WD-40 or PB Blaster for days. Keep tapping the flange until it starts to break loose. Once you get it apart, replace the flange, clip, boot and seal. Clean the driveshaft completely. Liberally coat the clip and flange area of the shaft with marine grease to avoid this problem in the future. Hope that helps. If you have a heat gun, that could help quicken the process by heating the flange. Avoid open flame like a torch.
@@restoroosterohv many thanks 🙏🏻 . How I can soak it ? Normally we can’t because the boot and seal are just behind . I have put some WD 40 today but I don’t know soak it . Thanks for your reply 🙏🏻 Appreciate 🔥🔥
@FredCprod the clip is toward the engine side under the flange. Penetrating oil does just that
@@restoroosterohv Ok thanks , i Will put some oil every day .. I have a heat gun too … I can use it on the clip , but the o rings will be melt and glue the shaft with the clip maybe ?
@FredCprod the heat gun should not get it hot enough to melt the O-rings but even if it does, you’re going to replace them as well. The heat will expand the flange and help to loosen the rust
Good video, but it seems like you are missing 2 bumpers on each side of the drive shaft and another o-ring that goes inside the "hat" - 2 inside the hat and 1 (missing) in the outer part of the hat before the clamp
The bumpers are absolutely missing for sure, somebody has already been in here. This model only uses two O-rings in the “hat“
The under side looks like you drove it on the road. ;-)
Haha, yeah people love to beach these things
Thank you for this vid.. Is this a 4tec rotax engine…
You’re welcome, thanks for watching. This was done on a GTX DI.
Awesome video
Thank you for your feedback and support
7:04 is that black peice suppost to have the metal ring peice rub on it when running?
Absolutely
how the heck did that shaft get so bent?!
Good question.
So the boot closer to the motor had a grease cert, do you grease that and is it hold any oil inside ?
No oil. That grease fitting is for the shaft splines and yes you should give it a few shots
You the Man👍
Thank you
We're you putting the flange/collar on backwards?
The flat part of the flange must face the carbon seal
Here's my thoughts if you straightened that easy it'll bend that easy I'd order a new shaft and if there available buy a hardened shaft
Thanks for your comment, that ski was sold last year.
Great vid! Question Why do you use die electric and marine grease can’t u just use marine grease for everything?
Absolutely. It’s just habit for me to use dielectric grease on the o-rings. As an auto tech, there are places that you wouldn’t want to use a bearing style grease but rather a silicone base. For example when assembling air conditioning systems. Thanks for your feedback.
That shaft is bad,just buy a new one. ☃️👍👍
That would be the right way to do it, but unfortunately, it’s discontinued and difficult to find
Hey man love the video!! How long did it take you to remove the pump assembly?
Less than 10 minutes
I have a 2007 Seadoo GTX Wake. I can’t figure it out for the life of me how to take this propulsion pump system off. There is a supercharger on it that I may have to remove just a slide that carbon ring / support ring back & remove that cir clip.
I know the bearings are definitely bad, but geez talk about tough. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again all these engineers that design this equipment need to physically work on it first before sending it out to the public.
Amen on the engineers. Boats are such a pain…
The carbon seal when it goes bad the boat sinks, did your rebuild solve problem? Otherwise nice video, glad to see DI’s still going. They are now 20 years out of production.
@@brucecooley4170 hey good morning. I haven’t touched them yet. I will be replacing the Carbon seal just to Play it safe. Been house hunting after work + OT. But I will update once its finished. Have a good day.
@@brucecooley4170 I didn’t have any issues with water coming in to begin with, just some light cavitation. I have not lake tested it yet because I am now chasing a no start condition (fuel related). It’s always something with these things…
Fuel pump is a common failure. Also costs in the $800 range last time I looked. There are some aftermarket choices that basically dont work well. The pump has to put out 100+ psi and not draw too many amps current or the charger cant keep up. There is a replaceable filter, but a complete no start is unlikely. Once you get it running , these engines eat spark plugs like crazy.Any high speed miss, just put new plugs in. I have had 2 DI skis for 20+ years with 400 combined hours on them. The 4 stroke Rotax however is a much more reliable engine and will go way more hours trouble free. The DI when its running is very fuel efficient and does run great.
If this seal was brown could it cause an oil leak?
This seal keeps water from getting into the hull.
How do i replace the carbon seal on my Kawi???.....oh it doesn't have one bawabahahaha
No but through hull bearing designs have issues as well not limited to expense. Thanks for your comment.
Not to sound like an asshole but that wut happens when you are cheap and don't buy new parts that are compatible with each other
I take it you’ve never purchased an aftermarket part in your life…odd.
So this is possibly why mine is fillling up with water everytime i put it on the lake.
It is not uncommon. Pull the plastic cover over the shaft off and see if water is leaking in through the carbon seal. Check for leaks in your cooling water lines. Be sure your hull drains are tight and secure. Also, check around the inside of the hull for a breach in the fiberglass that could be letting water in.
Hello, well done for your work, I learned a lot. Do you have an email address so I can let you listen to the sound of my jet ski's engine?? THANKS it's for gtx di 2004.
Restoroosterohv@gmail.com
@@restoroosterohv thanks you.
Excellent video with a variety of important details. Definitely subscribe! - Questions for you: Not using an exterior mounted driveshaft-lining-up-plate, how confident are you that you've lined-up the driveshaft correctly and what makes you confident that you have? - Thanks!
Thank you for your support. That is a good question. The alignment plate is one, expensive and I don't do these on the regular. Two, it is not required when pulling the jet pump as it only goes on one way. I did pull the engine in a previous episode and the alignment tool would have been a good thing to do, however, I put all the original shims back where they were so that is the best that will come of that. Haha.