Sea Doo Carbon Seal Removal/Installation (Done the right way!) Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 2 ноя 2024
- Recently I’ve seen a lot of Facebook groups discussing carbon seal replacement specifically on supercharged skis. Some say you don’t have to remove the supercharger (which is not the correct way) and others say you do (which is the correct way). I didn’t capture this in the video, but the tool designed to remove a carbon seal floating ring doesn’t even fit onto the engine properly with the supercharger installed. The tool is meant to brace onto the PTO cover. NOT the supercharger. So as per usual, I show you some tips and tricks on how to make this job much easier than it seems. It’s a long one, but I break down the OEM special tools required for the job. I also go into length about the old style carbon seal vs the new ones. You will quickly see why this is an upgrade! Enjoy!
#seadoo #seadoolife #diy #jetski #brp
• Sea Doo Wear Ring Repl...
A great, well made video. Thanks very much. 👍
Thanks again for this excellent video!
Found your channel and you do an awesome job of explaining and how to R&R. Thank you very much.👍👍👍🍺🍺🍺
so my 2019 rxt230 of 65 hours,is showing wear just like the one your working on(dust in hull) .i took all the hoses off and found that metal ring laying in the bottom of the hull.intresting....so i watched your video and the boot and ring part comparing new style to old i have the new style. so i believe previous owner had this replaced but with no clean up!!!!! still very happy! thank you for the info because i was ready to tackle this now its just a clean up job. only thing is the square hole in dust boot is pointing up? wondering why ?
Great video thank you so much
I pulled the driveshaft out for the first time on my 2nd hand '21 GTI 170SE and the rear PTO bearing pulled out of its rubber boot and oetiker clamp at the same time. I was not expecting that at all.
@@asdfqwerty1889 that’s because your shaft had a little rust on it and jammed the bearing onto the shaft. Next time tap the bearing a little with a 3/8” extension bar and a hammer towards the engine to ensure it moves freely on the shaft.
@@SaltyDogPerformance thanks for the tip mate, much appreciated!
Don't they have grease fittings for the PTO still? So you can grease those so lines on the driveshaft.
If only you are in Houston, I was planning to take my fishpro (240 hrs) to get the carbon seal replace since factory. Don't have trust on dealer or shops around here. Gotta find someone that have passion like yourself to work on my ski!
Wow man thank you so much for the compliment! That means a lot!
I’m down in the Houston area. You still need to change out your carbon seal ?
@SaltyDogPerformance hey Saltydog i see you do maintenance the way is supposed to be done , my congrats to you and your channel. If you allow me a question. I'm getting a vibration that I thought was from the impeller housing and it's components, I replaced everything but the housing and still has some residual vibration. Any thoughts on that ? Thank you in advance. Marcio.
How do you apply proper torque to the SC bolt that threads from the front of the ski? Is that why there is a square in the OEM tool?
Just do it hand tight. It’s only 85lbin. You can’t properly torque with that tool and a torque wrench.
I have 2020 rxpx and she just started to cavitates on launch,I just replaced the wearing and it helped however still does it but not as bad.I was told to replace the carbon seal from green hulk forums think it could be issue,I have no water in hull at all and all motor mounts look fine..ski has 56 hrs. On it.I plan on using the new style carbon seal on the green hulk store..it like 75
Sounds like you needed to replace the impeller as well. The maximum wear ring to impeller gap tolerance for optimal performance is .35mm. Check your gap and I bet it’s out of spec.
@@SaltyDogPerformance I’ll check it,might just put oem impeller back in. I have a Solis 1318 impeller in there and it does not have more than 20 hours on it
I just followed this procedure on my 2021 GTX 170 . I had the bearing fall out of the PTO bellow. I was able to get everything all back together, but where the driveshaft goes into the PTO bearing, its like its not in all the way because the telltale mark on the shaft is visable. In the manual it says that if the telltale is visable, its put together wrong. I cant get the driveshaft to push into the PTO any further, and it appears the PTO bearing is located back in the correct spot in the bellow. Any ideas on what I may have done wrong? Thanks in advance.
@@MrRay3801 the issue is that you didn’t use the PTO bearing holder. So when you pushed the driveshaft in, the o rings in the PTO bearing around able to slide easily over the shaft and the bearing is pushed back. Try pulling on the bearing to get it to move closer to the rear of the hull.
@@SaltyDogPerformance Thanks man, I was able to get the bearing to pull back towards the rear of the machine enough to cover up the telltale groove. Thanks for the response. Going to order the PTO bearing holder now to have it on hand for the next time!
Wondering is there a Torque Spec for the Carbon Seal clamp?
The bellow boot has one but it’s very light. I think 40ish lb in. I would have to look at the service manual. I just do them hand tight.
I saw you grease the Shaft. But then when it came through it looked dry? What happened to the grease? Also did it get grease on the inside of the Carbon ring?
Remember there are 2 orings on the floating ring? They squeegee off the excess. But you have to grease the shaft otherwise the orings will not slide over the shaft.
That small amount of grease is not getting onto the carbon seal surface. Even if it did, it is not going to cause any issues.
Thanks 🙏🏻 can you make a video on how to check the clutch slip next?
Sure thing!
Nice video...positive suggestion is to maybe use a head lamp to illuminate the area that you're describing and working on...other than that, very good analysis and procedure 👍👍
A little Ultra black on the c clip and it will stay on. A racing trick from jetskii racing.
They should go back to the treatable bearing carrier instead of the carbon seal. I watched a few sinking skis when they used to use on rings to hold on the carbon ring, before they switched to the c clip.
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