This video was extremely helpful towards my efforts to have a professional do a similar job. Though I tend to avoid doing jobs myself that could compromise the structural integrity of my home, I like to know as much as possible before talking to contractors, so that I can ask the right questions. Much appreciated.
Had to buy a new power tool ... the sunk costs multiply ... now it's a real job! Watching someone *else* do brick work is so relaxing :D Great choice of music, too. Perfect contrast to the profanities you'd be hearing at my place!
Come on RUclips algorithm- put this guy at the top! Excellent info with tons of pro tricks for anyone willing to pay attention. Noticed when you cut the wood with circular saw, you held the square with the flat side away from you. I find it easier to hold with flat edge toward me. Also watch Project Farm on RUclips and see why you might want to use something other than liquid nails.
Thanks, Miguel! I love Project Farm! Been subscribed for years. I saw the construction adhesive one too, but too late :-( ... As for the square, I used to cut with the flat side toward me, but I'd seen some other pros (Tom Silva too) do the opposite. I tried it and realized it helps you hold the board against the push of your saw, and since it sticks out a little on the starting side, it also helps square the sole of the saw before starting the cut.
very good professional job. saved lots of time by fast playing the video and taking out unnecessary parts of video. video was easy to understand. great
What a Video!!!! This should go straight to DVD and commercialize. My hats off to you for an exemplary job. Workmanship was top level . Congratulations on a perfect job.
Thankyou for this video. We've moved into our new build & there is a window, that I thought was meant to be there, missing from our kitchen. The builder has shown me it wasn't even on the plans so it is now up to us to put one in. If we don't we will continue to have to put the light on, even in the middle of the day to see in the kitchen & I'm really not happy with that. I'm a registered nurse, not a builder but I'm determined to do it myself! Time to give it a crack!
May yours be a successful and enjoyable project, Kylie! BTW .. Because I have large overhangs, I didn't need to flash my window, but if yours if your windows are exposed to the elements, you'll probably want to flash them. Here are a couple of videos that might be helpful: ruclips.net/video/EBM-9q7UW-s/видео.html ruclips.net/video/ITfVImuD0Os/видео.html
Adding a window to a brick wall is a big job, costing lots of money if you hide a professional . Impressive what you did. One of the houses I'm looking to buy atm is also a brick house. Overall it's nice, but not having enough light/ windows. Impressed by your work, but have me wonder whether I want to get myself into that much trouble by buying that house, since it also needs to clear the trees on land to extending the backyard... and else... Thanks for the clip. You have a really nice set of power tools, and a cute ducky too :).
This is very impressive. Especially since you hadn't done this before. Thank you for sharing with us! I have a stucco wall I want to cut into. Feeling very thankful it's not brick. Your Brickwork was perfect!!!
Working inside the house, on t h ewood floor, not even a tarp ... savage! LOL If only the miter saw had been on the coffee table, would have been perfect. I've got that same tiny table saw. Isn't she cute? Nice job, well-documented, an inspiratron!
Thanks J! Yeah, I'm terrible when it comes to safety and prep work. And I just can't seem to kill that little table saw. I've never even changed the original Ryobi blade and it still rips as good as I need. Thanks for the comments!
Thanks for the video Dave! I've been working on similar project; however, it's for in-wall speakers in a load bearing wall. Your video had some really good information and detail that helped me and/or made me feel better about what i have done.
The window is in, I still need to do the hard part which is the outside brick work.We have been below freezing for a while now .The inside is finished and trimmed out. Thanks to your project and sharing what you did.
If you have bricks continuing above your window, yes, you'd need to install a lintel, but my bricks stop at the top of all my windows, because my window frames go all the way to my soffits.
At the end of the video, is that a reflection or light leaking through (hole??) between the window and the house? I’d love to have seen more detail on how you insulated around the sides and top of the window.
Yes, that's light shining through the cracks from the inside before I caulked the exterior trim. I used Great Stuff to foam all of the gaps before casing the interior.
All the construction shows I'd watched where they always build temporary walls to support the load (I've done the same in the past and still would under certain conditions) made me concerned---until I thought it through. Logically, there would be no catastrophic failure, as I figured the two sixty-year-old top plates would want to keep their shape for a little while, and if they did sag before I got the header in, I could always go back after the fact and jack things up to get the header in. I thought, "Why waste the time and lumber if the odds are 60/40 in your favor," ;-) ... Great question, Trevor. And thanks for the comment!
I've been waiting for someone to mention that! :-) I thought the same thing after I did the first couple of rows, but by then it was too late. If I did it again, I would. Thanks for the comment!
@@MattRichardsonX Yes, and I’ve seen it done that way, but it leaves a very porous surface that usually doesn’t match the rest of the brick. Typically wherever the end of a brick shows you want it to be a factory end and not a cut end. That’s why with all the half pieces that are usually around windows the cut end is turned toward the mortar joint. I think leaving the cut end exposed is becoming more common when the brick is going to be painted afterward.
My thoughts exactly. I removed a giant brick fireplace surround, started at the top. Also not sure why he was sawing the grout. It just comes out when you chisel the brick out so easily. Unnecessary mess…
Dave, Great video and great work! I'm about to install a window on a brick wall and am going to have to do a lot of similar work. Why did you purchase the Evolution saw instead of continuing with your Skilsaw w/ diamond blade to remove the brick? Was the Skilsaw too slow? Thanks.
Thanks! ... As far as the skilsaw goes, it was fast enough, but I wore out the first diamond blade and the grit ended up locking up the blade guard. I had to take it apart to get it working again. It would have been almost $50 for another decent blade, and I think I paid $170ish for the Evolution--which I'll be using in future concrete projects. This was actually a compilation of 4 longer videos on this project--I think I talk about it in one of the other videos ... if anyone's interested in seeing more. Thanks for the comment, Brian!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks for the reply, Dave. Makes sense. I also believe that the standard 7 1/4 circular saw only cuts 2 1/2 inches deep while the Evolution Concrete Saw cuts 4 in. deep. The standard brick depth is 3 5/8 in so it was probably good that you got to cut through the full depth of the mortar line.
Thanks for the video! Did you use anything other than the angle grinder and the evolution saw for cutting the mortar? Im trying to do a similiar project and wonder if there is anything else needed, particularly on the vertical joints that are only a few inches tall
Thank YOU for watching, Gregory! ... and unless you count the "plugging chisel" I used, made by Kraft Tool, for the vertical cuts, I just went as deep as I could without damaging the brick with the 4 inch angle grinder, then worked at it with chisels.
If you're doing it yourself, buying all of the tools, and purchasing new windows, probably around $800-$1000 USD. If you're having a contractor do it, it could range from probably around $3000 to $10,000 depending on where you live.
Thanks Joseph, and ---Oh wow. That might be a little different. They're solid masonry with no wood framing aren't they? ... I'd recommend watching some Stu Crompton for some English style instruction, if you haven't yet. All the best with your project!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY 500mm thick stone walls. They were making nuclear bunkers well before their time haha. I surely will Dave, thanks for the tips and the video ;)
It depends on where you live, BC. The only way to be sure is to contact your local government.--A lot of places have a website and you can do it all on-line.
Very impressive. How long it took you from first removing the existing window to finish. I have a project like this albeit larger but don't think I would even try, but afraid to get a quote
In my part of the world if you removed studs without roof support or lintel in place you would lose your builders license.. turned out ok but potential for roof damage. Not good. Why did you put a join in the archtrave ??? ALl
I know what you mean, AL. That's typically done here as well. I considered a temporary wall to hold things straight while I put the header in, but I've seen enough old framing stay in place when the support was gone that I was willing to risk it. The framing is so old and hard I knew it wouldn't sag immediately at least. ... About the joint in the trim -- 2 things: (1) I'm cheap (2) I wanted to show other cheap folks how to do it ;-) .... Thanks for the comment, AL!
I probably spent $150 on the wood, PVC, caulk etc. to frame the windows; $170 on the diamond saw, $50 on masonry tools, and maybe $15 on a couple of bags of mortar. So around $400 total.
ok why couldnt you just cut out the rectangular hole and be done with it? why all the futzing around knocking out individual bricks and re-laying them? what am i missing?
I'm going to say you're work is AMAZING! You're attention to detail was incredible! Great job! 👍
Projects like this require vision and courage. Well done.
Thanks!
This video was extremely helpful towards my efforts to have a professional do a similar job. Though I tend to avoid doing jobs myself that could compromise the structural integrity of my home, I like to know as much as possible before talking to contractors, so that I can ask the right questions. Much appreciated.
Glad to hear it, Julie! Thanks for the comment!
Had to buy a new power tool ... the sunk costs multiply ... now it's a real job!
Watching someone *else* do brick work is so relaxing :D
Great choice of music, too. Perfect contrast to the profanities you'd be hearing at my place!
Come on RUclips algorithm- put this guy at the top! Excellent info with tons of pro tricks for anyone willing to pay attention.
Noticed when you cut the wood with circular saw, you held the square with the flat side away from you. I find it easier to hold with flat edge toward me.
Also watch Project Farm on RUclips and see why you might want to use something other than liquid nails.
Thanks, Miguel! I love Project Farm! Been subscribed for years. I saw the construction adhesive one too, but too late :-( ... As for the square, I used to cut with the flat side toward me, but I'd seen some other pros (Tom Silva too) do the opposite. I tried it and realized it helps you hold the board against the push of your saw, and since it sticks out a little on the starting side, it also helps square the sole of the saw before starting the cut.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Cool. Thanks for clarifying. I'll give it a try.
very good professional job. saved lots of time by fast playing the video and taking out unnecessary parts of video. video was easy to understand. great
Thanks Amir!
What a Video!!!! This should go straight to DVD and commercialize. My hats off to you for an exemplary job. Workmanship was top level . Congratulations on a perfect job.
Thanks a bunch for you're kind comment, Jose!
I cannot begin to tell you how impressed I am!!
Thanks!
This is America and there isn't a thing that beats good ole fashion American ingenuity! You killed it man great job
Thanks!
Thankyou for this video. We've moved into our new build & there is a window, that I thought was meant to be there, missing from our kitchen. The builder has shown me it wasn't even on the plans so it is now up to us to put one in. If we don't we will continue to have to put the light on, even in the middle of the day to see in the kitchen & I'm really not happy with that.
I'm a registered nurse, not a builder but I'm determined to do it myself! Time to give it a crack!
May yours be a successful and enjoyable project, Kylie! BTW .. Because I have large overhangs, I didn't need to flash my window, but if yours if your windows are exposed to the elements, you'll probably want to flash them. Here are a couple of videos that might be helpful:
ruclips.net/video/EBM-9q7UW-s/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/ITfVImuD0Os/видео.html
Five minutes into your video and I'm very impressed with your work and video editing.
Much appreciated!
Awesome work. Thanks for addressing the flashing issue even if it wasn't needed on your project.
Thank you! Yeah, I hope I put enough emphasis on that, as most people should probably install flashing. Thanks for the comment Craig!
Nice job man. I’ll be referencing this for two transoms I’ve got to install this week on my own build. Thanks a lot
Just what I needed to watch for my project. Thanks for the video!
May your project be a successful one!
Interesting construction, brick wall on the outside, wood framing on the inside. Never seen anything like this.
That's America for ya!
Love the music! Your very skilled ❤
Adding a window to a brick wall is a big job, costing lots of money if you hide a professional . Impressive what you did.
One of the houses I'm looking to buy atm is also a brick house. Overall it's nice, but not having enough light/ windows. Impressed by your work, but have me wonder whether I want to get myself into that much trouble by buying that house, since it also needs to clear the trees on land to extending the backyard... and else...
Thanks for the clip. You have a really nice set of power tools, and a cute ducky too :).
Thanks Kenny. May your decision be the right one! All the best to you!
Background music really enhances watching experience. Thanks
Thanks for the kind comment!
This is very impressive. Especially since you hadn't done this before. Thank you for sharing with us! I have a stucco wall I want to cut into. Feeling very thankful it's not brick. Your Brickwork was perfect!!!
Thanks for watching, Mindy. All the best on your project!
The attic door is the best idea!
You make this look like child's play! 👍🏽💯
I laughed hard when you said, “No Insulation.” I literally did the exact same thing on my house haha.
Wow, I am super impressed with the work you did! I hope to do this one day if the opportunity presents itself. Job well done!
Thanks, and good luck to you if you do :-)
Working inside the house, on t h ewood floor, not even a tarp ... savage! LOL
If only the miter saw had been on the coffee table, would have been perfect.
I've got that same tiny table saw. Isn't she cute?
Nice job, well-documented, an inspiratron!
Thanks J! Yeah, I'm terrible when it comes to safety and prep work. And I just can't seem to kill that little table saw. I've never even changed the original Ryobi blade and it still rips as good as I need. Thanks for the comments!
Nice work 💪🏼
LOVE the realness of this video!
Thanks, Jen!
Very nice work.
Thank you 😊
Really impressed with the work you did. Good job with the video as well.
Thank you very much!
Thanks for the video Dave! I've been working on similar project; however, it's for in-wall speakers in a load bearing wall. Your video had some really good information and detail that helped me and/or made me feel better about what i have done.
Glad to hear, Ryan. All the best on your project, and thanks so much for the comment!
Would you need a temp wall to support the second level load before cutting out 2x4 and installing header?
Awesome job, I'm installing a single hung 36 x 48 only one window .I hope my window looks as good as yours.
Thanks! Good luck with yours Kevin.
The window is in, I still need to do the hard part which is the outside brick work.We have been below freezing for a while now .The inside is finished and trimmed out. Thanks to your project and sharing what you did.
That’s awesome, Kevin!.😃It would be cool if you could post a link to a pic or video of the finished product when you’re done.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIYruclips.net/video/-TGxxnTiDwc/видео.html
I will update when the brick work is finished
Awesome Job!!! You made it seem so easy for your first time.
Thank you, Tina!
What about all the extra weight on that wall?
Well done sir!!! Love the patience!!
Much appreciated!!
Awesome!! You don't have to support the bricks at the top of the window with a frame under them?
If you have bricks continuing above your window, yes, you'd need to install a lintel, but my bricks stop at the top of all my windows, because my window frames go all the way to my soffits.
You were doing so well! But is that a heap of light coming through on the left side in the last few seconds?
Good eye, SabreAnt! ... That's before I caulked between the brick and window. I wanted the mortar to completely dry first. Thanks for the comment!
Excellent work 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Thanks!
did you install a lintel above the window in the brick?
Good question, Jonathan. ... I didn't need to. There is no brick above the window (my windows abut the soffits), so nothing to support.
very great job! it is better to put flashing under the window.
At the end of the video, is that a reflection or light leaking through (hole??) between the window and the house? I’d love to have seen more detail on how you insulated around the sides and top of the window.
Yes, that's light shining through the cracks from the inside before I caulked the exterior trim. I used Great Stuff to foam all of the gaps before casing the interior.
Beautiful job. Way to go
Thanks Jeff!
Great job! But am I the only one seeing what looks like light between the window and the brick?
Ha ha, someone else mentioned that as well. That footage was taken before I caulked. I wanted the mortar to dry first. ... Observant, Maddy!
Should be using Type N mortar.
What an amazing job!
Thanks eva!
Hi! I might be doing this soon... Can you tell me if you were worried about supporting the load on the top plate when you were doing the framing?
All the construction shows I'd watched where they always build temporary walls to support the load (I've done the same in the past and still would under certain conditions) made me concerned---until I thought it through. Logically, there would be no catastrophic failure, as I figured the two sixty-year-old top plates would want to keep their shape for a little while, and if they did sag before I got the header in, I could always go back after the fact and jack things up to get the header in. I thought, "Why waste the time and lumber if the odds are 60/40 in your favor," ;-) ... Great question, Trevor. And thanks for the comment!
why not start at the top removing bricks?
I've been waiting for someone to mention that! :-) I thought the same thing after I did the first couple of rows, but by then it was too late. If I did it again, I would. Thanks for the comment!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Is it possible to just cut the brick, alleviating the need to rebrick around the edges?
@@MattRichardsonX Yes, and I’ve seen it done that way, but it leaves a very porous surface that usually doesn’t match the rest of the brick. Typically wherever the end of a brick shows you want it to be a factory end and not a cut end. That’s why with all the half pieces that are usually around windows the cut end is turned toward the mortar joint. I think leaving the cut end exposed is becoming more common when the brick is going to be painted afterward.
My thoughts exactly. I removed a giant brick fireplace surround, started at the top. Also not sure why he was sawing the grout. It just comes out when you chisel the brick out so easily. Unnecessary mess…
Lintel??
Good call out. No lintel necessary because of my low soffits, there is no brick above my window to support. My windows are flush to the soffits.
*Adds windows, finds out why the energy bills are high*
Dave, Great video and great work! I'm about to install a window on a brick wall and am going to have to do a lot of similar work. Why did you purchase the Evolution saw instead of continuing with your Skilsaw w/ diamond blade to remove the brick? Was the Skilsaw too slow? Thanks.
Thanks! ... As far as the skilsaw goes, it was fast enough, but I wore out the first diamond blade and the grit ended up locking up the blade guard. I had to take it apart to get it working again. It would have been almost $50 for another decent blade, and I think I paid $170ish for the Evolution--which I'll be using in future concrete projects. This was actually a compilation of 4 longer videos on this project--I think I talk about it in one of the other videos ... if anyone's interested in seeing more. Thanks for the comment, Brian!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks for the reply, Dave. Makes sense. I also believe that the standard 7 1/4 circular saw only cuts 2 1/2 inches deep while the Evolution Concrete Saw cuts 4 in. deep. The standard brick depth is 3 5/8 in so it was probably good that you got to cut through the full depth of the mortar line.
Good job but get but of scaffolding up
Did you take the fins of off the windows?
No. These were “replacement” windows.
good job!!!
Thanks!!
Thanks for the video! Did you use anything other than the angle grinder and the evolution saw for cutting the mortar? Im trying to do a similiar project and wonder if there is anything else needed, particularly on the vertical joints that are only a few inches tall
Thank YOU for watching, Gregory! ... and unless you count the "plugging chisel" I used, made by Kraft Tool, for the vertical cuts, I just went as deep as I could without damaging the brick with the 4 inch angle grinder, then worked at it with chisels.
I'm impressed and inspired to do it myself now. I gotta ask, how many hours did the labor itself take?
Thanks, Joel. I think it was about 4 Saturdays.
Great video
Thanks!
Wouldn’t have type N mortar been better for bricks?
Maybe, but the N doesn't come in pre blended bags where I am. You have to buy the "cement" and mix the sand in yourself.
Good job!
Thanks!
Wow so amazing!
Thank you!!
nice video, thanks. should have take out the glass while measuring on the wall, i suppose u wanted her to feel weight too, haha 😉
I know, right? :-) Didn't think of it till afterward.
Well done
Thanks, Ahmad!
This is what I’m hoping for when enlarging my kitchen windows.. so neat and can’t tell it’s not original
Thanks, Sharon. May your project be blessed!
Aprox how much would a job like this cost including refinishing the drywall?
If you're doing it yourself, buying all of the tools, and purchasing new windows, probably around $800-$1000 USD. If you're having a contractor do it, it could range from probably around $3000 to $10,000 depending on where you live.
Good vid. I have to do this on a 16 Century English Cottage now. 😳
Thanks Joseph, and ---Oh wow. That might be a little different. They're solid masonry with no wood framing aren't they? ... I'd recommend watching some Stu Crompton for some English style instruction, if you haven't yet. All the best with your project!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY 500mm thick stone walls. They were making nuclear bunkers well before their time haha.
I surely will Dave, thanks for the tips and the video ;)
Hi, Do I need a permit from City Hall to do the same job? Thanks.
It depends on where you live, BC. The only way to be sure is to contact your local government.--A lot of places have a website and you can do it all on-line.
Awesome 😎
Thanks Gina!
Very impressive. How long it took you from first removing the existing window to finish. I have a project like this albeit larger but don't think I would even try, but afraid to get a quote
Thanks, Bernard. If I remember right, it took me 4 Saturdays --- so technically 4 days.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks.
In my part of the world if you removed studs without roof support or lintel in place you would lose your builders license.. turned out ok but potential for roof damage. Not good. Why did you put a join in the archtrave ??? ALl
I know what you mean, AL. That's typically done here as well. I considered a temporary wall to hold things straight while I put the header in, but I've seen enough old framing stay in place when the support was gone that I was willing to risk it. The framing is so old and hard I knew it wouldn't sag immediately at least. ... About the joint in the trim -- 2 things: (1) I'm cheap (2) I wanted to show other cheap folks how to do it ;-) .... Thanks for the comment, AL!
So my question is how much was your cost on installing this window
I probably spent $150 on the wood, PVC, caulk etc. to frame the windows; $170 on the diamond saw, $50 on masonry tools, and maybe $15 on a couple of bags of mortar. So around $400 total.
how much does a job like this cost on a brick house
To have a contractor do it, it looks like about $3k to $10k dollars, Trinity.
www.homeadvisor.com/cost/doors-and-windows/install-windows/
Maybe. Ok tutorial. Very skeptical.
Did you wife ever find out you used her ironing board?
She did the filming of it. It was either that, or have her stand there holding the mortar tub ;-)
some of the worst music I've had to endure...brutal.
Thanks for the input :-)
THEY STILL MAKE CHEAPASS CORDED TOOLS..HUH...AMATEUR CRAP..ONLY 1 KINGSTUD ON A 4 FOOT OPENING....BAHAHAHA
ok why couldnt you just cut out the rectangular hole and be done with it? why all the futzing around knocking out individual bricks and re-laying them? what am i missing?