1:01 I watched your video on how to flash a window with outside brick wall as all the other videos didn't do any flashing or put flashing that actually will make things worse because there was no place for the water to flow out. While I think your flashing is the best, I have 2 comments: 1- Having been in construction industry for over 30 years, I know no house that was built in any shape or form close to what you desribed. I don't even know where you you can get the metal flashing sealed at corners other than welding them. No brick layer will stop to make these metal flashing. On my house that I built 25 years ago, the only flashing that was done is at the bottom of the walls to divert water on brick wall side to outside. If water made it to the framing wall side, that water will leak to the inside and down on basement wall. 2- Giving that my windows don't have the flashing that you described, I would like to get your opinion on alternative way: a- installing a pan with sides around 1" and all corners sealed and the pan slopes down as it extends to the outside toward the brick. b- seal the bottom sill plate of the window using tar. c- Install the widow with spacing between the bottom of window and the metal pan. d- on the brick side, you have the metal pan sitting on top of brick or stone piece in my case, a gap and then the window, fill gap between widow between bottom of window and the metal pan from one end of the window to other end after inserting plastic 2 or 3 plastic tubes that will carry the water in the pan to the outside. In other words, I am modifying the bottom of my window to collect water and divert the water to outside using plastic tubes buried in the filler between the bottom of the window and metal pan. I guess I am not sure why windows manufacturers don't include a pan with weeping holes at the bottom of each window they make. Some do that but only if it is a vinyl window. Wood windows don't have anything at all. Any water leaks goes straight to the basement walls. As an engineer, I call this bad by design as every window will leak sooner or later and with climate change causing more frequent and more severe storms, this problem will likely become a bigger problem for home owners down the road I have been thinking about this some more and I have an easier solution as follows: Since the windows in my house are sitting on a concrete cap about 2 inches or more thick, I can take the cap off first and then carve a channel in this cap to be my weep holes. When installing the window back, I install a metal container first. This metal will be similar to the metal container in video and on the outside end will be buried in joint between cap and last layer of the brick. Since the window is sitting higher than this concrete or stone cap, i have the slope that I need for the water to flow from window through the channel that I carved in my cap to the outside. I am only doing this because all windows will start leaking at some point and this flashing will collect such water leak and diverted it to outside rather than going down to basement walls. The windows in the US are extremely cheaply made inspite of being expensive. Most of these windows rely on 1/4" weather strip to stop water and air leaks. Such strips will fail within a year or two. For this reason, I typically buy my wood windows, completely disassemble them and then reassemble them using real wood joints that are both water and air tights using real heavy duty weather strips that are designed to seal doors, md company makes them. Look forward to hear what you have to say. Thank you AJ 1:02
The problem with flashing the sill like that is it's not bonded or tied in to anything to hold it in place. That's not a problem for the header because it bonds and ties in higher up and has sufficient weight on top of it to hold it in place. There's nothing holding the sill in place, if somebody leans on it or puts pressure on it, it can roll right out.
your flashing needs to come PAST the lintel edge slightly to protect it. It should also be sealed below the flashing to the lintel. your lintel is to close wall line also you'll never get enough mortar in front of it to stay very long. Folding your wrap up means zero because water should never get there anyway unless your window flashing fails. It would have no end dam and just run out the sides to the corners.
We have a brick veneer front on our home. We have had a leak near the bay window for the past 23 years. We have had numerous repairs, brick waterproof spray and 2 new bay window roofs installed and yet it still leaks into the house. The leak has ranged from continuous water running through ceiling during heavy rain to slower drips to ceiling stains. We have just learned that our parapets are built incorrectly - they are not sloped at all. But how can determine if this is the exact cause of our leak. How can determine if the veneer brick wall was built correctly; with an air gap, proper flashing at the 2 upper story windows & step flashing around the bay window's roof? And who can we contact to make the necessary repairs once and for all?! Please help.
I worked for a large commercial masonry company that 'insisted' that the flashing and termination bars be installed BEHIND the building wrap.! Which I thought was the Stupidest thing.. They had us cutting that house wrap up like a bunch of derelicts, breaching it's integrity and then taping it up😂..
Hi. If a window installer doesn't install flashing on the sill before installing a replacement window, but uses silicon caulking to create a seal around the entire window (silicon seals the gap between window and brick)...is this sufficient? Thanks.
Junior Sanchez Thanks. Im on your side, but inspector comes after window is installed and sealed up....so how does the inspector know if it was waterproofed with flashing tape correctly? Lowes is telling me they do NOT install flashing tape (nor add non-expansion foam) in any of their replacement windows installs...which I think is wrong based on my research and by what you just replied with. The funny thing is, a Lowes youtube video on how to install a replacement window specifically states for a proper install to add flashing tape (and non-expansion foam for insulation)
joapps -- A brick repair person can use a hammer-drill to remove the bricks above and below the window and then install the correct flashing and replace the bricks. Window installers don't know how to do brick work.
My guess is bricks (stone) are a no maintenance item when compared to Hardi plank or wood (repaint @ 5 yrs). Just have to paint trim. If the stick framing behind the brick is properly insulated, brick's low R won't matter much.
You are a fantastic instructor. Thank you!
1:01 I watched your video on how to flash a window with outside brick wall as all the other videos didn't do any flashing or put flashing that actually will make things worse because there was no place for the water to flow out.
While I think your flashing is the best, I have 2 comments:
1- Having been in construction industry for over 30 years, I know no house that was built in any shape or form close to what you desribed.
I don't even know where you you can get the metal flashing sealed at corners other than welding them. No brick layer will stop to make these metal flashing. On my house that I built 25 years ago, the only flashing that was done is at the bottom of the walls to divert water on brick wall side to outside. If water made it to the framing wall side, that water will leak to the inside and down on basement wall.
2- Giving that my windows don't have the flashing that you described, I would like to get your opinion on alternative way:
a- installing a pan with sides around 1" and all corners sealed and the pan slopes down as it extends to the outside toward the brick.
b- seal the bottom sill plate of the window using tar.
c- Install the widow with spacing between the bottom of window and the metal pan.
d- on the brick side, you have the metal pan sitting on top of brick or stone piece in my case, a gap and then the window, fill gap between widow between bottom of window and the metal pan from one end of the window to other end after inserting plastic 2 or 3 plastic tubes that will carry the water in the pan to the outside.
In other words, I am modifying the bottom of my window to collect water and divert the water to outside using plastic tubes buried in the filler between the bottom of the window and metal pan.
I guess I am not sure why windows manufacturers don't include a pan with weeping holes at the bottom of each window they make. Some do that but only if it is a vinyl window. Wood windows don't have anything at all. Any water leaks goes straight to the basement walls. As an engineer, I call this bad by design as every window will leak sooner or later and with climate change causing more frequent and more severe storms, this problem will likely become a bigger problem for home owners down the road
I have been thinking about this some more and I have an easier solution as follows:
Since the windows in my house are sitting on a concrete cap about 2 inches or more thick, I can take the cap off first and then carve a channel in this cap to be my weep holes. When installing the window back, I install a metal container first. This metal will be similar to the metal container in video and on the outside end will be buried in joint between cap and last layer of the brick. Since the window is sitting higher than this concrete or stone cap, i have the slope that I need for the water to flow from window through the channel that I carved in my cap to the outside.
I am only doing this because all windows will start leaking at some point and this flashing will collect such water leak and diverted it to outside rather than going down to basement walls.
The windows in the US are extremely cheaply made inspite of being expensive. Most of these windows rely on 1/4" weather strip to stop water and air leaks. Such strips will fail within a year or two. For this reason, I typically buy my wood windows, completely disassemble them and then reassemble them using real wood joints that are both water and air tights using real heavy duty weather strips that are designed to seal doors, md company makes them.
Look forward to hear what you have to say.
Thank you
AJ 1:02
Amazing demonstration for flashing system on openings. Cheers mate
I can tell you are not just a spokesman but a knowledgeable instructor. And props to the cad programmer for the 3D renderings.
The problem with flashing the sill like that is it's not bonded or tied in to anything to hold it in place. That's not a problem for the header because it bonds and ties in higher up and has sufficient weight on top of it to hold it in place. There's nothing holding the sill in place, if somebody leans on it or puts pressure on it, it can roll right out.
Certainly not, the strength is gained from the joints laterally. So basically the sill it tied into both panels each side and can’t be pushed out
I have no idea how I ended up here but I really enjoyed your presentation haha bravo!
your flashing needs to come PAST the lintel edge slightly to protect it. It should also be sealed below the flashing to the lintel. your lintel is to close wall line also you'll never get enough mortar in front of it to stay very long. Folding your wrap up means zero because water should never get there anyway unless your window flashing fails. It would have no end dam and just run out the sides to the corners.
Very helpful for my project. Thank you!
Nice video.Very helpful.
Just removed the original windows in my 30 year old brick house . No flashing and not a hint of any water damage .
We have a brick veneer front on our home. We have had a leak near the bay window for the past 23 years. We have had numerous repairs, brick waterproof spray and 2 new bay window roofs installed and yet it still leaks into the house. The leak has ranged from continuous water running through ceiling during heavy rain to slower drips to ceiling stains. We have just learned that our parapets are built incorrectly - they are not sloped at all. But how can determine if this is the exact cause of our leak. How can determine if the veneer brick wall was built correctly; with an air gap, proper flashing at the 2 upper story windows & step flashing around the bay window's roof? And who can we contact to make the necessary repairs once and for all?! Please help.
this man is golden
my 60's doesn't have any flashing, is there a way to fix it without removing the bricks?
Please share a video which shows how to construct brick veneer near a simple gable roof
Thanks sir 🙏
it sure wasn't a bricklayer who smeared up your wall it was a shoemaker.
I worked for a large commercial masonry company that 'insisted' that the flashing and termination bars be installed BEHIND the building wrap.! Which I thought was the Stupidest thing.. They had us cutting that house wrap up like a bunch of derelicts, breaching it's integrity and then taping it up😂..
Weep holes under sill bricks and positioning of damp course flashing ..... at. 7:00
Sic guitar ensemble!
I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS!!!!!
Hi. If a window installer doesn't install flashing on the sill before installing a replacement window, but uses silicon caulking to create a seal around the entire window (silicon seals the gap between window and brick)...is this sufficient? Thanks.
Junior Sanchez Thanks. Im on your side, but inspector comes after window is installed and sealed up....so how does the inspector know if it was waterproofed with flashing tape correctly?
Lowes is telling me they do NOT install flashing tape (nor add non-expansion foam) in any of their replacement windows installs...which I think is wrong based on my research and by what you just replied with. The funny thing is, a Lowes youtube video on how to install a replacement window specifically states for a proper install to add flashing tape (and non-expansion foam for insulation)
joapps -- A brick repair person can use a hammer-drill to remove the bricks above and below the window and then install the correct flashing and replace the bricks. Window installers don't know how to do brick work.
And when it leaks the phone will ring,if you're still in business.
this window needs a control joint
Bricks are so porous -- and have such poor R values -- why do we still use them?
My guess is bricks (stone) are a no maintenance item when compared to Hardi plank or wood (repaint @ 5 yrs). Just have to paint trim. If the stick framing behind the brick is properly insulated, brick's low R won't matter much.
Use water struck brick,insulation goes behind any veneer.Assuming some idiot doesn't paint them 0 maintenance.
Wow a video made buy a pro
my dream to learn how to bild brick please make my dream real
Nonsense requirement. How the heck does water get into the cavity. Magic.