How to install a door in a cinder block wall | How to install a door in a brick wall
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- #pella #brickhouse
Today I want to go over the process of installing a sliding glass door in a cinder block/brick sided wall. This will work for installing any type of door such as installing a french door or a normal exterior door.
With this process we decided to remove all the brick and cinder block from the sill to the roof.
The process of installing a door in an exterior brick/cinder block starts with determining the make-up of the wall. How thick is it? What's it exactly made out of?
We then cut straight lines in the brick siding with a 16 inch cement saw and removed the brick from the cinder block wall. We then used a demo hammer to remove the rest of the cinder block wall.
A header was built out of two 2x10's and studs to hold it up were made out of two 2x10's. This was the structure.
Then the Rough opening was framed within that.
After the door was installed we cased the exterior with PVC trim.
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Deceptive Title. This is not a video on how to install a door, the video shows the demolition a brick wall. The whole video is the demo of the wall, then they skip the framing and installation of door, and show the finished product.
Sorry you feel that way- was not the intention. The intention was to share an experience and help. Sorry it didn't work out for you tho !
Anyway, enjoy your summer ! And I hope you find what your looking for ...
Thanks
Mike
Damn it. The one thing I wanted to see was the 2x4 and 2x10s you were putting into the frame of the opening; that's why I clicked into this installation of a door into a brick wall! Nice install but darn it.
What type of wood did you use to frame the opening? What type of flashing/sealing tape was that? What kind of anchors/concrete hardware did you use to mount the wood to the brick?
I'm converting my home into a duplex.. all of a sudden I had a vision to not lose a room-- instead, tear down a wall, instead of me losing a room... I just discovered your video. Thank You!
i’m glad it helped, even if it was a little. this is such a custom job - it’s tough to make a video to make everyone happy ! ha.
good luck with your project and a duplex sounds like a great long term investment! good luck
Mike
Good video, good presentation, very to the point / informative. thank you for not playing music throughout.
Luke - Thank-you for the kind words, i really appreciate it ! Thanks for watching - Mike !
Gotta be from Philly with this accent. Nice work bro
Fab..thanks 🎉
Nice video
Anyone have something like this done and can share how much you paid someone else to do this ?
Thanks
Mike
How much would this typically cost to pay a contractor to do? (Just ballpark)
Thanks for the vid! Curious, is there a reason you should not attach the door to the brick facade on the outside and instead the sheathing/wood framing you added?
Not possible in this case because it was a block wall. I had to remove the block behind the brick to add framing to hold roof up. So the brick had to go as well. Unfortunately
Watching to see if it's mentioned.. but I am trying to figure out what those lines of brick in between the block, are for. My DIY is just to knock out space for a vent over a garage man-door (to easily vent hot air from garage.) The exact spot I want the vent, there is a row of brick that looks like you have in your inside wall here, but it looks out of place?
It’s mortar,holds the bricks together. Watch video on how to install bricks and it should make sense. Cutting through the mortar is easier than bricks.
This is the first video I've found that shows the installation and details on adding support with a timber lintel. I'm currently in the middle of a DIY basement finish and I am adding an exterior door in the foundation with concrete landing and steps up to garden level. I'm going with a standard 36x80 steel door and with the cut out being roughly 44", I wanted to see how others add support. My foundation is poured 8" with double 2x4 sill plate. I'm cutting out the entire height to then add a header of 2-2x10 with a spacer supported by a 2x10 on each side directly under sill plate. Opinions would be appreciated.
Chris, your plan sounds perfect to me. So yours going to remove from the sill plate down, correct(not the sill plate) ? If so your fine. Id build a temp support wall inside but I think youre on the right track.
You got this !
Mike
The header will sit against the under side of the sill. I've seen some people cut out extra width at the top so the header rests on the concrete. Do you feel that's necessary or just make the straight cut and build the header to fit the 44" space.
Not argued, parged
Curious why the door wasn't installed with brick moulding to match the windows?
No reason - personal and situation preference. Every jobs slightly different.
Not very helpful. Flashing, types of bolts and screws, what if header and side supports are to thick (alternatives to wood), foam, caulking, square, level. No detail in this video.
you’re welcome!
I was wondering if you argued the edges of the masonry wall at the cut and how the posts were attached to those edges.
I didn’t parge the wall, I used tapcon screws to attach the framing to the bricks and cinder blocks.
I work for a door company and we replace this brand of door just about every week, it’s complete junk, some less than 3 years old. All that work you should have used a quality door. Otherwise great video!
Mike thanks for the comment, in your experience what’s the first part of the door to go ? Maybe we’ll keep an eye on that part of the door ... Thanks again - Mike
Should have used acroprops on the inner leaf, got away with it here because only roof load but that was risky, DO NOT do this is a 2 story building
old video but im confused. This is a load bearing exterior block concrete wall yet the new header for the door installation doesn't extend into the block on either side? it's the same width as the R/O? Is this to code?
Doesn’t need to extend since the block/brick was removed all the way to the roof, then the new header picked up that load. The new opening was wider than the r/o by the amount of the new studs.
curious, would this normally require a building permit?
yes
As a GC yes, 100%.
How much does a job like this cost??
Doing this ourselves cost about 600-800 bucks, got an insane good deal on the door(end year close out) Normally these doors alone can go for this. I'd assume this would be a $3000-5000 job, sure in some cases it could be even higher.
Anyone have this done and can give what you paid ???
Thanks
Mike
@@FamilyDIYtv nice. Thanks for the reply.
It's been a few months. How did the rheem hybrid water heater work out for ya?! I'm still on the fence!
I need to make that video - slacking. I’ll get on that. I need to sit down and do the analysis of energy saving, ect... On my to do.
Thanks for watching !!
Thanks again for the comment and view. See updated video here >>>>>
(Updated Review Oct 2020)How much $$$ does a Rheem Hybrid Water Heater really save you, if any ? ruclips.net/video/PoX1pcYZOKs/видео.html
Another one boss - ruclips.net/video/SHJLvfgpJWg/видео.html
What size header did you use?
Nathan thanks for watching- we used two 2x12’s with 1/2 plywood sandwiched between. Pretty much large enough to hold a second floor above this door. Enjoy ! -Mike
Hammer drill
SDS hammer DRILL !!!
Wastes time talking about was he's going to do and then does it in 3 seconds using super fast forward. Video no good.
what information were you looking for ?
Where are you located.
Philly area