Fantastic install and explanation. I install doors with my handyman business and we have basically the same approach. I’m going to try using the plastic shims for the entire install like you did. I normally only use them under the threshold. You seriously put a lot of other videos online to shame.
Thanks. That's great to hear and I'm glad you're doing installs. The composite shims are so great because they don't split and are very easy to snap accurately. If you understand doors, you're in rare company so get that into your marketing if you do any. I get such great responses from clients because they say they can't find door guys. I'm grateful and appreciate your nice words. Thanks for watching.
I just installed a basement entry door yesterday. I watched your video and about 20 others on how to. It really pays to do your research before you take on a project like this if you never have done one before. It went great with no real problems and turned out better than I expected. Thanks for taking your time and giving step by step instructions.
I'm so glad I could lend a hand. I've done so many of these over the years and it's hard to find a video that shows everything you might encounter, so I've posted a few to help those who want to learn. thanks for watching.
My house has 2x4 framing and brick veneer. The builders installed a door with a 6-9/16” width (also threshold width) because they didn’t flash anything on the house including the door sill. The mortar on the row lock bricks (example at 3:32) has degraded away over 30 years of freeze-thaw and water is getting onto the rim joist of the house and rotting it. Since I’m replacing the door, should I replace it with a 4-9/16" width door and add through wall flashing with weep holes through the brick. Or do you think I could replace the brick row lock sill with a continuous concrete sill and still use a door with a width of 6-9/16” (including threshold). Either way, I have to replace the brick. The first way would be the “right and code compliant way” but is more time consuming and 5X more expensive. The second way is the easiest way and would still work since there’s no more mortar joints for water to get in.
Sheesh, that's a good one. I would take everything out to start with and do whatever you can to waterproof it. With rough conditions like that, I've even covered it with Henry's Damp Proofer. It's not as thick as the roofing patch, it's more like thick paint, and I just covered everything with that, then install your door. To get a 6 9/16" jamb will be more expensive so either buy a prehung with a 4.5" jamb and then just add to it on the outside someway to make it look nice or just buy the door and some 1x8 stock and make your own jamb. Let me know how it goes and thanks for watching
Nice tutorial. I want to replace an exterior door on my brick facade home. However my exterior sheathing and brick air gap must be bigger than yours. Should I get the next size bigger door jamb when I order my door.
That would be ideal, however, that can increase the cost and lead time significantly and I don't if that's important to you. If that's prohibitive, it's best to get a standard size and then cut some nice planks and nail them to the front of the jamb so that they're flush with the exterior. Then you can add your exterior casing to that. Good luck and thanks for watching.
When it's clean like this, I can get them done 2-4 hours. Often the most time-consuming tasks are if I have to replace any rotten wood underneath, alter the size of the opening, or make custom exterior trim. This one was pretty straightforward and took 3 hours. Thanks for watching.
In 15 years of doing doors, here's what I've experienced when it comes to break-ins. NEVER seen a picked lock or something taken apart like removing hinge pins, security screws etc. Only broken glass I've seen is when the whole door is glass. 99% of break-ins that I'VE seen are either a crowbar to pry it open or they simply kick it in. Door guys have a saying, "Locks only keep out honest people." Thanks for watching.
Fantastic install and explanation. I install doors with my handyman business and we have basically the same approach. I’m going to try using the plastic shims for the entire install like you did. I normally only use them under the threshold. You seriously put a lot of other videos online to shame.
Thanks. That's great to hear and I'm glad you're doing installs. The composite shims are so great because they don't split and are very easy to snap accurately. If you understand doors, you're in rare company so get that into your marketing if you do any. I get such great responses from clients because they say they can't find door guys. I'm grateful and appreciate your nice words. Thanks for watching.
I just installed a basement entry door yesterday. I watched your video and about 20 others on how to. It really pays to do your research before you take on a project like this if you never have done one before. It went great with no real problems and turned out better than I expected. Thanks for taking your time and giving step by step instructions.
I'm so glad I could lend a hand. I've done so many of these over the years and it's hard to find a video that shows everything you might encounter, so I've posted a few to help those who want to learn. thanks for watching.
Anyone getting you for an installer (Video genius) has to consider that they would be in the hands of a true craftsman. Great video
Hey Greenish, I truly appreciate that. You're far too kind. Thanks for watching
I don't know shit about construction. But the way you explained it didnt leave no questions. Much luv.
LOL. That's great to hear. I try to explain things clearly, so I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
Very well executed and explained. You made this look simple.thank you for taking the time, Great Work!!
Glad you found it helpful. thanks for watching.
Another fine explanation. I had no idea there was so much involved. Great job
Thank you!
EXCELLENT TUTORIAL
I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching
Great video and install! Thanks very much for sharing
I'm glad you found it useful and I appreciate the comment. Happy to share my experience. Thanks for watching.
My house has 2x4 framing and brick veneer. The builders installed a door with a 6-9/16” width (also threshold width) because they didn’t flash anything on the house including the door sill. The mortar on the row lock bricks (example at 3:32) has degraded away over 30 years of freeze-thaw and water is getting onto the rim joist of the house and rotting it.
Since I’m replacing the door, should I replace it with a 4-9/16" width door and add through wall flashing with weep holes through the brick. Or do you think I could replace the brick row lock sill with a continuous concrete sill and still use a door with a width of 6-9/16” (including threshold).
Either way, I have to replace the brick. The first way would be the “right and code compliant way” but is more time consuming and 5X more expensive. The second way is the easiest way and would still work since there’s no more mortar joints for water to get in.
Sheesh, that's a good one. I would take everything out to start with and do whatever you can to waterproof it. With rough conditions like that, I've even covered it with Henry's Damp Proofer. It's not as thick as the roofing patch, it's more like thick paint, and I just covered everything with that, then install your door. To get a 6 9/16" jamb will be more expensive so either buy a prehung with a 4.5" jamb and then just add to it on the outside someway to make it look nice or just buy the door and some 1x8 stock and make your own jamb. Let me know how it goes and thanks for watching
Anyone else see the spider on frame 4:01 on the top of the door frame?
Nice!😊
Thanks for watching. I appreciate it..
Nice tutorial. I want to replace an exterior door on my brick facade home. However my exterior sheathing and brick air gap must be bigger than yours. Should I get the next size bigger door jamb when I order my door.
That would be ideal, however, that can increase the cost and lead time significantly and I don't if that's important to you. If that's prohibitive, it's best to get a standard size and then cut some nice planks and nail them to the front of the jamb so that they're flush with the exterior. Then you can add your exterior casing to that. Good luck and thanks for watching.
So how many actual hrs did it take from start to finish???...excellent attention to detail sir!!!...👍👍
When it's clean like this, I can get them done 2-4 hours. Often the most time-consuming tasks are if I have to replace any rotten wood underneath, alter the size of the opening, or make custom exterior trim. This one was pretty straightforward and took 3 hours. Thanks for watching.
its funny most thieves just smash the window and unlock the deadbolt, that armor is kinda useless
In 15 years of doing doors, here's what I've experienced when it comes to break-ins. NEVER seen a picked lock or something taken apart like removing hinge pins, security screws etc. Only broken glass I've seen is when the whole door is glass. 99% of break-ins that I'VE seen are either a crowbar to pry it open or they simply kick it in. Door guys have a saying, "Locks only keep out honest people." Thanks for watching.