I’ve had this problem with a couple of extruders. Have searched for solutions. This is the first video I’ve found that details multiple causes and solutions. Thanks so much for being ‘the one’.
You also want to make sure the heat sink cooling fan is working properly. Otherwise, you can get heat creep. Most people don't think to check this. Heat creep causes the filament to get too hot and it will begin to back up into the feed system. When the hot filament reaches the cooler temperatures of the heat sink it will begin to harden and causes a partial clog. The extruder will start to click as it tries to force the filament on through to the hot end through the partial clog. The clicking is due to the spring pushing on the extruder lever (arm) to move it to another position. As these things are happening, the extruder gear is also grinding down on the filament as it attempts to feed it to the hot end, making gouges, which makes it even more difficult for the extruder gear to bite down on the filament.
Oh great wizard of 3d printing, I am forever in debt to you, this was literally the last thing I tried to get my machine to work properly and it worked like a charm
Just received a new CR-10s Pro v2 and having lots of extruded problems. Your description of possible issues is invaluable. More info than Creality has provided. Thanks again
I just wanted to add to this wealth of information; If your filament is from a cheaper brand make sure the dimensional accuracy of the filament is 1.75mm, because if you're feeding this filament through a bowden tube (Ender 3) and the cheap filament exceeds 1.75mm it will have issues feeding and you will think it's your extruder spring tension, the hotend temp. I have printed at so many temperature settings and honestly didn't think to check the filament I buy with a caliper, sure enough the whole week of printing issues were caused because the filament wasn't true to 1.75mm diameter. This is why I think a lot of people switch to direct drive style extruders because they don't use a bowden tube and can get away with filaments being +/- over 1.75mm. Thank you for all the breakdowns in the video as they covered everything but this one point I wanted to add I've been 3D printing for over 3 years now and I just solved this issue due to poor filament, I was almost convinced it was the bowden tube until I kept running the filament just by it self through the tube and noticed resistance in "random" spots until my brain finally slapped some sense into me and told me to check the filament it self... Gotta Love Printing!
Glad you finally overcame the issue! Yeah I've heard about that problem happening with some filaments. These days, filament tolerances are improving but you might still get those manufacturers that cut corners
After hours of searching I found your video - Tried several of you suggestions and things to look for and it fixed my problem. Ended up just messing with the flowrate and extruder temp. Thanks!
Finally someone to tell me different reasons for this problem ? So difficult to find a video that gets to the point and with all of the different causes for just this problem. Thank you!
Cool thanks for tips... It actually helped fix my Ender extruder click. I went through and did all the adjustments to spring and bolts on the extruder. It still clicked. Then I took your advice of the bed being too close to nozzle. That was my problem. Even though the bed was level. The nozzle was too close to the bed. Causing a restriction back flow of filament. So just brought the bed back down some to increase the space between the bed and nozzle. Boomtastic it worked! Fixed the clicking of extruder motor. Thanks!
That's great! Glad you found it helpful to fix your Ender machine. Yeah, the nozzle being close to the bed seems to be the most common cause of this issue.
Dude, I am new to this extruder game...I have a ender 3 pro with a few improvements that have made life alot easier when making things but I started getting that dang clicking sound and I adjusted flow rates and temperatures and couldn't get it to stop and I had just started a big print and didn't want any issues with it. So I found your video and it made sense when you said that if it's too close to back it off a bit and bam no more clicking! So I just wanted to say thank you for your help, it worked like a champ and no more clicking! Thanks man!!
That's great to hear. Yeah I remember when I first got the clicking noise on my Ender 3 and had no idea why it was happening. Glad I could help solve the issue. Have a smooth 3D printing journey!
Bro I’ve watched so many videos and spent literally years just accepting the clicking on mine, I went from 200 temp to 210… and that’s it. It’s fixed. Wow. lol thanks man!
in my opinion/experience... the clicking is the PREASURE BUILD UP. and this happens because the hotend can not melt the filament fast enough. I READ THAT.. you have to slow it down.. so I studied my project and realized the click/skip/grid was during INFILL. Now my project was/is a helmet, meaning I didnt have any problems on the OUTER WALLS. Cura 4.8 I have to go 60ish% or change the... in properties. Cura 5 I can set outer walls to 80% and up but I run infill at 50-60% and no skips only way to change this is in the hotend raising and lowering the temp for outer vs infill which is actually in the programming.. so, if in any Cura version you can change the temp during infill THEN YOU WOULD HAVE FAST PRINTING. but the temp change would most likely cause jamming. I learned... a woman can grow a healthy baby in 9 months I should be ok with less than a week (slicer vs quality and detain or whatever a creator is looking for). and I bought new extruder.. then dual, the moisture box. (its patience!!!)
You're a Godsend man, I've put my CR-10S Pro V2 through the ringer, it has over 4,000 hours of printing through it and it's really started showing, I've had to do basically everything you mentioned, but it's going again.
It makes perfect sense! I am very new to printing and still finding a happy medium for the nozzle to bed height, different filaments, temperatures etc..the list goes on! Great Video!
Subscribed. Shout out to you man. First thing you said was my issue. I just installed a new PEI sheet and I didn't set the Z axe correctly. Thank you !
Thank you for your video! My issue was printing temperature for a new filament i am using. The print temp range is 190 - 230. I thought I had landed on a the correct temp, but i was getting clicking/slipping. I kept adjusting my temp up unit it is working fine. If I have further issues, I will check the other suggestions you had in your video.
Also cheap nozzles could be the reason. Good nozzles have a narrow cone inside with few resistance. Cheap nozzles could have been drilled with a standard 118 degree drillbit causing a flat cone with much resistance.
@@cecilepuckhaber1067 OK 1 I meant it as in every other help vid I watch they was using terms I didn't understand and going off on about stuff I didn't know what about this guy dumped it down for people who had a printer for days and didn't no fuck all I wasn't saying very help video I watch I in a different language you ignoramus learn to read sarcasm you harf wit
Not a lot of production value but this video is jam-packed with valuable content! I appreciate you for sharing your knowledge! I just became a subscriber! 🙂👍
Dude! Thank you! Raise the z end stop! Thaaaankkk youuuuuu Im been trouble shooting for hours. Did have a slight clog though but when im 0.00 im touching the bed. Even with the bed all the way tight
Having the issue again. I think it’s a tube clog. But my print is going fine, just clicking again. Tried slowing it down, raising the heat at the nozzle. Maybe debris from the filament!! Or it’s my motor 😂😂😂
Non-Capricorn tubing doesn't degrade at temperatures below about 250C, which is well above printing temperatures for nearly any commonly available filament.
I've heard from some people that it degrades at lower temperatures, but it does depend on how the connection is of the tubing to the hotend. PTFE is known to emit fumes at temperatures of around 200 or so. The higher the temperature, the more toxic the fumes.
@@3D-Printerly Don't "hear" anything "from some people" and go repeating it to the masses. Look it up. Do your due diligence. PTFE is NOT known to emit any fumes at any temperature below 250C. If it emitted fumes, it would degrade... because what do you suppose those fumes would be? PTFE can tolerate temperatures right up to 250C, plus or minus about 5 degrees C. It does NOT degrade or emit fumes at 200C. If it did, everyone with a Teflon-lined frying pan would die from the fumes when they fried food. Does that happen? Of course not. Teflon-lined frying pans break down when you use a steel fork to get your food out of the pan... and occasionally when they're left heating unattended and dry so they can reach temperatures above 250C. Many of us print for hundreds or thousands of hours with the same non-Capricorn PTFE tube touching the nozzle, right down through the heat block. Please stop spouting BS that doesn't correlate to reality. Look it up. If in doubt, test.
i had the drive gear teeth ware down on an long print to the point that it slips and won’t feed the filament correctly anymore and +1 for them changing over to an drive gear that pressed onto the motor so i have to replace the entire motor to fix the drive gear…
Hi Max, this could be due to your extruder spring tension being too strong, or there are too many retractions happening. Try adjusting your extruder spring tension and decreasing retraction settings - speed & distance.
If the voltage on your extruder stepper motor is too high, it might cause the motor to become extremely hot. There have been cases where the extruder stepper motor got so hot that it made the filament soft. This caused it to jam at the extruder point. This possibility is worth checking.
Solution to your issue is to reduce travel distance to 5-4 mm and speed to 30. Also, change support settings to larger mesh size by reducing density percentage and using zigzag as it is reducing retraction.
It's nearly unthinkable that an extruder wouldn't be able to keep up with your print speed. I know a guy who uses a conventional extruder to print at 500mm/sec with 0.8mm or 1.0mm nozzles. Your extruder can POUR filament through the nozzle.
The extruder itself can move very quickly, but there are limitations on how quickly the filament can actually flow out the nozzle based on nozzle size, printing temperature, and other things.
@@3D-Printerly Sure there are limitations... but unless you're running a super-fast race printer you'll never approach those limits with any consumer-grade printer. The biggest of those limitations, BTW, is the heating capacity of your hotend heating element. That heater cannot keep up with too high a flow rate... but "too high" is an enormous flow rate.
You CANNOT measure the voltage that is sent to a stepper motor with a DVM. You can do it with an oscilloscope. BUT... that voltage is immaterial and it's a waste of time to try to measure it. Either your driver is working or it is not. Your driver will push enough voltage (up to about 24V) through your stepper motor (which is only rated for about 4.0V) to pass whatever current the driver is preset for. For example, if your driver is set to deliver 0.9A to the stepper motor, then the driver will deliver whatever voltage pushes 0.9A through the stepper motor because these drivers are all constant-current drivers. Maybe it's
Ah interesting. I was more so referring to when people adjust the VREF voltages and stepper motor currents. I've seen a few videos on RUclips of people doing this. Here's one example from TH3D Studio - ruclips.net/video/pJRYXKRAUN4/видео.html
@@3D-Printerly TL;DW. I know very well about adjusting VREF, but VREF has nothing to do with stepper voltages. It has only to do with average stepper current... and stepper current has very little correlation to stepper voltage because stepper motors are inductive loads. If they were purely resistive (passive) loads, there would be a direct correlation but they're highly reactive.
@@timhofstetter5654 Ah okay, yeah I don't know much about the specific terms but I do know it's a potential method that works for this issue. Thanks for clarifying
I’ve had this problem with a couple of extruders. Have searched for solutions. This is the first video I’ve found that details multiple causes and solutions. Thanks so much for being ‘the one’.
That's great to hear, happy I could help! Yeah, 3D printing can be frustrating for sure so I like to try simplify things as much as I can.
You also want to make sure the heat sink cooling fan is working properly. Otherwise, you can get heat creep. Most people don't think to check this. Heat creep causes the filament to get too hot and it will begin to back up into the feed system. When the hot filament reaches the cooler temperatures of the heat sink it will begin to harden and causes a partial clog. The extruder will start to click as it tries to force the filament on through to the hot end through the partial clog. The clicking is due to the spring pushing on the extruder lever (arm) to move it to another position. As these things are happening, the extruder gear is also grinding down on the filament as it attempts to feed it to the hot end, making gouges, which makes it even more difficult for the extruder gear to bite down on the filament.
Thanks for the suggestion, yeah the fans are necessary for that temperature control in the hotend so the filament doesn't get too soft too early.
How can you tell if your heat sink is working properly vs improperly?
Oh great wizard of 3d printing, I am forever in debt to you, this was literally the last thing I tried to get my machine to work properly and it worked like a charm
Just received a new CR-10s Pro v2 and having lots of extruded problems.
Your description of possible issues is invaluable.
More info than Creality has provided.
Thanks again
Hey man, I'm happy I could help out!
The amount of value and insight you provided is absolute gold for this newbie! Thank you!
Thanks Kevin, I'm glad you found it useful!
I just wanted to add to this wealth of information; If your filament is from a cheaper brand make sure the dimensional accuracy of the filament is 1.75mm, because if you're feeding this filament through a bowden tube (Ender 3) and the cheap filament exceeds 1.75mm it will have issues feeding and you will think it's your extruder spring tension, the hotend temp. I have printed at so many temperature settings and honestly didn't think to check the filament I buy with a caliper, sure enough the whole week of printing issues were caused because the filament wasn't true to 1.75mm diameter. This is why I think a lot of people switch to direct drive style extruders because they don't use a bowden tube and can get away with filaments being +/- over 1.75mm.
Thank you for all the breakdowns in the video as they covered everything but this one point I wanted to add I've been 3D printing for over 3 years now and I just solved this issue due to poor filament, I was almost convinced it was the bowden tube until I kept running the filament just by it self through the tube and noticed resistance in "random" spots until my brain finally slapped some sense into me and told me to check the filament it self... Gotta Love Printing!
Glad you finally overcame the issue! Yeah I've heard about that problem happening with some filaments. These days, filament tolerances are improving but you might still get those manufacturers that cut corners
After hours of searching I found your video - Tried several of you suggestions and things to look for and it fixed my problem. Ended up just messing with the flowrate and extruder temp. Thanks!
Thanks for watching, glad it helped solve your issue!
BROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO 6 hours on youtube and I finally find this video and it solved my problem in the first 2 min. I'm cryin bruv! THANK YOU!
Haha wow, I know the feeling! I'm glad the video helped out
Finally someone to tell me different reasons for this problem ? So difficult to find a video that gets to the point and with all of the different causes for just this problem. Thank you!
My pleasure, thanks for watching!
Cool thanks for tips... It actually helped fix my Ender extruder click. I went through and did all the adjustments to spring and bolts on the extruder. It still clicked. Then I took your advice of the bed being too close to nozzle. That was my problem. Even though the bed was level. The nozzle was too close to the bed. Causing a restriction back flow of filament. So just brought the bed back down some to increase the space between the bed and nozzle. Boomtastic it worked! Fixed the clicking of extruder motor. Thanks!
That's great! Glad you found it helpful to fix your Ender machine. Yeah, the nozzle being close to the bed seems to be the most common cause of this issue.
Hey man, I know this videos a few years old but it’s still relevant and totally helped me!! Thank you!
Awesome to hear it's still hitting the mark for you even after all this time! Keep printing!
Dude, I am new to this extruder game...I have a ender 3 pro with a few improvements that have made life alot easier when making things but I started getting that dang clicking sound and I adjusted flow rates and temperatures and couldn't get it to stop and I had just started a big print and didn't want any issues with it. So I found your video and it made sense when you said that if it's too close to back it off a bit and bam no more clicking! So I just wanted to say thank you for your help, it worked like a champ and no more clicking! Thanks man!!
That's great to hear. Yeah I remember when I first got the clicking noise on my Ender 3 and had no idea why it was happening. Glad I could help solve the issue. Have a smooth 3D printing journey!
Bro I’ve watched so many videos and spent literally years just accepting the clicking on mine, I went from 200 temp to 210… and that’s it. It’s fixed. Wow. lol thanks man!
Haha wow that's a journey! Glad it's finally sorted out now, sometimes just takes a little tweaking
in my opinion/experience... the clicking is the PREASURE BUILD UP. and this happens because the hotend can not melt the filament fast enough. I READ THAT.. you have to slow it down..
so I studied my project and realized the click/skip/grid was during INFILL. Now my project was/is a helmet, meaning I didnt have any problems on the OUTER WALLS.
Cura 4.8 I have to go 60ish% or change the... in properties.
Cura 5 I can set outer walls to 80% and up but I run infill at 50-60% and no skips
only way to change this is in the hotend raising and lowering the temp for outer vs infill which is actually in the programming.. so, if in any Cura version you can change the temp during infill THEN YOU WOULD HAVE FAST PRINTING. but the temp change would most likely cause jamming.
I learned... a woman can grow a healthy baby in 9 months
I should be ok with less than a week (slicer vs quality and detain or whatever a creator is looking for).
and I bought new extruder.. then dual, the moisture box. (its patience!!!)
Sounds like you went through a journey indeed!
You're a Godsend man, I've put my CR-10S Pro V2 through the ringer, it has over 4,000 hours of printing through it and it's really started showing, I've had to do basically everything you mentioned, but it's going again.
That's great to hear man, I love that things are going smoother for you
It makes perfect sense!
I am very new to printing and still finding a happy medium for the nozzle to bed height, different filaments, temperatures etc..the list goes on!
Great Video!
I appreciate your comment. There's a lot to it, but you'll get used to it soon enough with some practice.
Subscribed. Shout out to you man. First thing you said was my issue. I just installed a new PEI sheet and I didn't set the Z axe correctly. Thank you !
I'm glad the video helped you out! Thanks for subscribing
Thank you, I've been thinking of upgrading this and that, but your explanation help me fix my problem for free.
Thank you
Glad I could help!
Thank you for your video! My issue was printing temperature for a new filament i am using. The print temp range is 190 - 230. I thought I had landed on a the correct temp, but i was getting clicking/slipping. I kept adjusting my temp up unit it is working fine. If I have further issues, I will check the other suggestions you had in your video.
Great to hear you fixed the problem! Yeah, sounds good. Thanks for watching
Lowered my bed .001 after hearing you say it. Click went away instantly. Paused it and boom. Thank you. God bless you
Sweet! Thanks for watching bud, happy printing
Very nicely put together video. I was expecting some rambling, but it was to the point with no BS. Thanks
My pleasure! Yeah I like to get straight into the good stuff, thanks for watching
Great video!
Thanks man, lots of help in this video
Glad it helped
Solved my problem, thanks.
Problem solved, on to the next challenge like a boss!
Cheers man! Was about to take the hot end apart but your first tip about lifting the print head worked!!! 👍😃
My pleasure man, thanks for watching!
tysm you fixd my my 3d printer
I'm glad it helped! Thanks for watching
Also cheap nozzles could be the reason. Good nozzles have a narrow cone inside with few resistance. Cheap nozzles could have been drilled with a standard 118 degree drillbit causing a flat cone with much resistance.
I've not heard of this reason, thanks for the input. Always a good idea to buy nozzles from a reputable brand!
nice thorough list of possible causes. Good job!
Thanks for watching bud, I appreciate it!
Thank the gods someone that speaks English and tells you how to fix it
Haha, thanks for watching
That's kinda rude. Just because someone doesn't speak English doesn't mean it's not helpful. English isn't the universal language.😡
@@cecilepuckhaber1067 OK 1 I meant it as in every other help vid I watch they was using terms I didn't understand and going off on about stuff I didn't know what about this guy dumped it down for people who had a printer for days and didn't no fuck all I wasn't saying very help video I watch I in a different language you ignoramus learn to read sarcasm you harf wit
I feel so dumb, thank you for your help man for real
No worries, we all have those moments. Happy to help you out!
I like your vids, you solve it very well (:
Thanks for watching!
Thank you.
Your answers cleared up a lot.
Much appreciated.
Thanks for watching! I'm glad it helped you out
Not a lot of production value but this video is jam-packed with valuable content!
I appreciate you for sharing your knowledge!
I just became a subscriber! 🙂👍
Haha thanks man, I appreciate it!
The first reason solved my problem instanly. Saved some good time :)
That's great! Happy printing
Great video, explanations and advices.
Thank you very much !!!!
No problem man, thanks for watching
Thank You
My pleasure, thanks for watching
Dude! Thank you! Raise the z end stop! Thaaaankkk youuuuuu
Im been trouble shooting for hours. Did have a slight clog though but when im 0.00 im touching the bed. Even with the bed all the way tight
Sweet, glad I could help!
Having the issue again. I think it’s a tube clog. But my print is going fine, just clicking again. Tried slowing it down, raising the heat at the nozzle.
Maybe debris from the filament!!
Or it’s my motor 😂😂😂
Well mine was the floor + screw back a full turn and its gone the clicking thanks man..
Love it! Glad I could help, those clicking noises get annoying don't they haha
Thank you for the tips my friend
No problem, thanks for watching. Glad I could help!
Thank you Mikey!
My pleasure!
I will try lowering the bed but I’ve had these settings for a long time and it randomly started clicking
Sweet, hopefully that fixes the issue for you. If not, try some of the other methods.
good tips brother!
Thanks man!
Non-Capricorn tubing doesn't degrade at temperatures below about 250C, which is well above printing temperatures for nearly any commonly available filament.
I've heard from some people that it degrades at lower temperatures, but it does depend on how the connection is of the tubing to the hotend. PTFE is known to emit fumes at temperatures of around 200 or so. The higher the temperature, the more toxic the fumes.
@@3D-Printerly Don't "hear" anything "from some people" and go repeating it to the masses. Look it up. Do your due diligence. PTFE is NOT known to emit any fumes at any temperature below 250C. If it emitted fumes, it would degrade... because what do you suppose those fumes would be?
PTFE can tolerate temperatures right up to 250C, plus or minus about 5 degrees C. It does NOT degrade or emit fumes at 200C. If it did, everyone with a Teflon-lined frying pan would die from the fumes when they fried food. Does that happen? Of course not. Teflon-lined frying pans break down when you use a steel fork to get your food out of the pan... and occasionally when they're left heating unattended and dry so they can reach temperatures above 250C.
Many of us print for hundreds or thousands of hours with the same non-Capricorn PTFE tube touching the nozzle, right down through the heat block.
Please stop spouting BS that doesn't correlate to reality. Look it up. If in doubt, test.
Thank you!
My pleasure!
i had the drive gear teeth ware down on an long print to the point that it slips and won’t feed the filament correctly anymore and +1 for them changing over to an drive gear that pressed onto the motor so i have to replace the entire motor to fix the drive gear…
Wow that's unfortunate, which 3D printer was that?
Thanks !
My pleasure
Good job mike
Appreciate it Mark!
Great job ma men.
My pleasure!
Very well explained. Thank you for your video and your time. We appreciate it. Keep printing!
That's my pleasure, thanks for watching man!
Thank you. 👍
No worries, thanks for watching
Good video !
Thanks bud
Exactly what I needed. Really Appreciate the explanation of the cause as well! Thanks for the info!
I'm glad you found it useful, thanks for watching!
If you want to solve this issue change your Filament to PLA+, the plus sign is very important and you can find them at Micro Center or Amazon.
Hi, yes I know about PLA+ but I don't think doing just that wouldn't solve the problem
thanks for the vid :)
My pleasure! Glad it was helpful
The problem I’m having is the extruded is grinding the filament too much to the point where it can’t pass through anymore
Hi Max, this could be due to your extruder spring tension being too strong, or there are too many retractions happening. Try adjusting your extruder spring tension and decreasing retraction settings - speed & distance.
If the voltage on your extruder stepper motor is too high, it might cause the motor to become extremely hot. There have been cases where the extruder stepper motor got so hot that it made the filament soft. This caused it to jam at the extruder point. This possibility is worth checking.
Solution to your issue is to reduce travel distance to 5-4 mm and speed to 30. Also, change support settings to larger mesh size by reducing density percentage and using zigzag as it is reducing retraction.
It's nearly unthinkable that an extruder wouldn't be able to keep up with your print speed. I know a guy who uses a conventional extruder to print at 500mm/sec with 0.8mm or 1.0mm nozzles. Your extruder can POUR filament through the nozzle.
The extruder itself can move very quickly, but there are limitations on how quickly the filament can actually flow out the nozzle based on nozzle size, printing temperature, and other things.
@@3D-Printerly Sure there are limitations... but unless you're running a super-fast race printer you'll never approach those limits with any consumer-grade printer.
The biggest of those limitations, BTW, is the heating capacity of your hotend heating element. That heater cannot keep up with too high a flow rate... but "too high" is an enormous flow rate.
You CANNOT measure the voltage that is sent to a stepper motor with a DVM. You can do it with an oscilloscope. BUT... that voltage is immaterial and it's a waste of time to try to measure it. Either your driver is working or it is not. Your driver will push enough voltage (up to about 24V) through your stepper motor (which is only rated for about 4.0V) to pass whatever current the driver is preset for. For example, if your driver is set to deliver 0.9A to the stepper motor, then the driver will deliver whatever voltage pushes 0.9A through the stepper motor because these drivers are all constant-current drivers. Maybe it's
Ah interesting. I was more so referring to when people adjust the VREF voltages and stepper motor currents. I've seen a few videos on RUclips of people doing this. Here's one example from TH3D Studio - ruclips.net/video/pJRYXKRAUN4/видео.html
@@3D-Printerly TL;DW. I know very well about adjusting VREF, but VREF has nothing to do with stepper voltages. It has only to do with average stepper current... and stepper current has very little correlation to stepper voltage because stepper motors are inductive loads. If they were purely resistive (passive) loads, there would be a direct correlation but they're highly reactive.
@@timhofstetter5654 Ah okay, yeah I don't know much about the specific terms but I do know it's a potential method that works for this issue. Thanks for clarifying
Are there English subtitles? I can't understand your accent..
Yeah, there should be the standard auto-generated subtitles on RUclips that you can click
🙏🙏🙏