(Detailed) Corolla clutch replacement - Part 3 - Shifter cable, driveaxle, exhaust
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Multi part series on 2005 Toyota Corolla clutch replacement. Part III is primarily about removing the shifter cables, driveaxles and disconnecting the exhaust.
There's a trick to removing the shaft nuts. Many cars use a cotter pin, but these Corolla driveaxle shafts are notched, and the rim of the shaft nut is dented into the shaft notch to prevent it from coming loose. I just hammered a phillips into the notch to unlock them on my car. That's not the best way because it damages the threading of the nut slightly, but it worked like a charm.
Used your video to do mine thank you so very much! p.s love how you walk us threw it with the 'mechanically inclined dad voice teaching his kid' voice lmfao 10/10
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Thanks for the comment :) I just try to be clear. A lot of video authors skip things and aren't clear so I try to get the point across. i get a lot of negative comments from guys that already know a lot, wanting to get to the point, but they don't understand that there are more people who appreciate the detail.
Hi, I think you forgot to mention the shaft nut being pinched at its end. I'm at hour 2 of fighting it haha
Also: "I don't think it'll be a problem to pop the plastic back onto the shifter cable" I thought the same.... that statement is incorrect.
My axels popped open just pulling on them lol. I had to go in and percussion out the small part of them
1:20 Same on Yaris Sedan. It is really weird that they use two types of connection on these two cables. Perhaps deliberately to prevent mixing up？
0:56 It is probably the original pin. Toyota usually puts a twisted pin instead of a straight cotter pin there.
Just wondering if a 2006 corolla clutch job would be around the same thing
Is it really necessary to mess with the exhaust manifold bolts ? I replaced my clutch using your videos a few years back and now I have to do it again as the clutch is slipping again. The last time I replaced it I didn't have the flywheel machined but I worked fine. This time I'm also replacing the flywheel. Thanks for making your videos. They helped me tremendously
Hi, thanks for your kind words. It's been a while but I definitely didn't do anything that wasn't necessary. Good idea to machine the flywheel!
hi!! I had to change the clutch of my 2005 xrs, does the crossmember had to come down too?
+Michael Williams I didn't have to take off the crossmember. I just used it to support the engine. If you can drop your transaxle and not hit the crossmember, then you don't need to drop it.
ok ,thanks a lot!
you did not record the hole video when you dropped the transmission so i have lost track on how to do that
You just have to keep moving it around to get it out. I'm sure mechanics have a smooth move, but I had to keep jacking it up, rotating it, and moving it around.
So by removing the bolts from the control arm instead, removing the axle nut won't be necessary anymore?
You mean leave the axle attached to the hub like I show around 5:30? Looking back, I think that would work except that I wonder if leaving the axles in place would just make it hard to drop the transaxle. Give it a shot and let us know, thanks.
I just managed to drop my transaxle with the axle nuts still in place and without removing the bolts from the control arms. They get in the way a bit but nothing that can't be managed. The reason I left everything in is that those parts are severely rusted on my car.