Should You BIG TURBO Your Focus ST?? (Watch Before Doing!)
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- Опубликовано: 19 ноя 2023
- Today i walked through what i have done to my ST and what parts i chose to put ion my car to handle the big turbo. I talked about what turbo i went with and why thats important depending on what goals you want to achieve. Stick around and watch the video!
Big turbo edgeautosport.com/atp-turbo-g...
True vacuum www.cjponyparts.com/steeda-so...
Charge piping edgeautosport.com/3p-performa... 
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sounds soooo sick
Dude fr sounds like a jet
I went with a BNR71 and Aux Fuel on E85 remote dyno tuned by Alan. Made 440whp and is a blast to drive. I have the HKS and a Flowmaster Outlaw sounds like a jet airplane. Love It!
@@robertbillington6522 exactly the route I’m going just that turbo upgrade is kinda pricey so I might just wait till my
Stock turbo gives out
similar setup with alan but with an awe track exhaust. havent had it dynoed but he said 440-450whp on the log i sent. this car FUCKS around and finds out.
Great video, but you missed just one VERY key detail. YOU ABSOLUTELY MUST GAP YOUR RINGS if you go BT on a stock motor and are expecting it to last. If you only do a pull here and there, and don't generally drive the piss out of the car, you *could* get some good longevity out of this setup. I'm on motor #3 now though, and I wish I'd known this: IF YOU ARE RUNNING HIGHER THAN 23PSI BOOST ON PUMP GAS AND DON'T LIKE SWAPPING MOTORS EVERY 800 MILES: GAP. YOUR. DAMN. RINGS. Lecture over... but keep reading if you want to hear the full story with this car lol.
*Backstory for anyone curious*:
I autocross my ST regularly, and (used to) drive it extremely hard on the daily, as my commute is all backroads. I blew my first motor during an autocross, just a couple days after fully tightening the stock turbo's wastegate on an OTS tune (big no-no, learned the hard way). Autopsy revealed that the slight overboost from the wastegate mod caused LSPI, which sent my Cylinder 4 rings to hell....that cylinder had 0 psi compression(!!) and pieces of the rings in the oil pan. They basically detonated. I figured since I already had the necessary mods, that it only made sense to go BT while I was already swapping the engine. In theory, a bigger turbo is actually less abusive to stock internals anyway, right?
So I splurged on the ATP GTX2867R Gen-2 kit and dropped that in with the "new" motor, which was a stock, 72k mile longblock with perfect 150psi compression. I, too, got tuned by Alan on 92 octane and was finished by my 6th revision. I had EXACTLY the setup your car has in the video. Car absolutely ripped, 340whp was a lot of fun... For 8 days, anyway. It then blew up AGAIN, tragically at my first autocross using the new setup. Noticed suddenly at idle the car sounded like it was chuffing a bit.. sure enough, compression test revealed Cylinder 4 was yet again down to 100psi from 150. Engine #2 was a goner after 8 days... because I didn't gap my rings. Autopsy revealed that this motor failed ALMOST the same way as the first one... except this time it was from excessive heat from high boost. When you run more than 23psi boost (*and* push the car hard, i.e. any form of racing), you SIGNIFICANTLY increase cylinder temperatures. Even with a good intercooler (I had a CP-E one). Higher boost that lasts up until redline is awesome in theory, unless you're running stock fueling and stock ring gaps. The factory ring gap NEEDS to be widened to accommodate the increase in heat expansion under consistent high boost. People think they're safe with a FMIC and good tuning, but they're ignoring a core truth about these motors. They are mass-produced, economy car motors with a turbo. With boost turned up anywhere above stock, you are WAY closer to the limits of this engine's weak points, which are the rings and the head castings. Rings almost always fail first though. A good preventative measure is to gap rings before going BT, or at least run water/meth injection to lower combustion temps. I didn't do this as I wanted to keep the build simple...big mistake. You HAVE to gap your rings if you want a BT setup to last. Gotta pay to play, absolutely no way around it.
Anyway, regardless this is a fantastic video and I wish it'd been around when I planned my BT build. But I encourage you to be conscientious of how much heat you're subjecting those factory rings to. Always downshift to 4th or 3rd before passing to avoid LSPI (duh, if you own one of these cars) but man, be careful with how hard you push it. If you run it hard and hot enough, I promise you WILL blow it up. And when it blows up, it WILL be Cylinder 4 losing compression. It's like clockwork with these engines unfortunately. It absolutely kills me to see folks do the same things I did and make the same mistakes (and drop Cylinder 4, every. single. time). I so badly wish I knew what I know now before I spent my whole budget on a build that lasted only 8 days due to that one simple oversight. I ended up selling off all my mods and putting the car back to stock on the 3rd motor, since I'm saving for a house, and I need this car to last more than I need it to beat Scat Packs.
Hoping for the best for your build brother, it's a beautiful car! Cheers.
Good to know yes I occasionally drive it on track but mostly street driving I want to build it but I got another car I’m working on rn and I still have to pay the ST off so definitely will be taking it easy on the car! A what ring gap is recommended with bt full build? I love to see people push these cars because most people just dump them after they blow
Thanks for sharing this info! None of it had occurred to me. I don't track my ST and I'm not planning to AutoX it. It's my daily and I want fun, noise, and driveability. I was planning to eventually upgrade to the Garrett Powermax since it's not really BT but more like OEM+. I'm guessing that's not going to require anything drastic to the engine.
@@greecoboost honestly you’ll be good going bt dude it’s worth it. If you take care of of the car and keep the oil changes up and good maintenance you’ll be fine! Alan is a pretty conservative tuner and he would have e told me where the limits are. That’s around 400whp where things can get dicey
@@greecoboost tbh I’ve done 2500 miles already on big turbo going back and forth from the coast to where I live and track days and she’s been solid
I disagree on the whole "gap you rings" theory. Theres other alternatives Alan over at Edge Autosport recommends when running "high" boost when going BT. Have plenty of mates that are on a BT setup and beat the living crap of their cars with no issues for years now. "What did they do?!?!" you shall say.... well they made sure to run DUAL ventilated OCC & a upgraded BAFFLE plate with 2 baffles (iridiums works AMAZING) compared to the stock one that only come with one baffle and restricted. That will help with any blow-by and too much crank pressure which can result in you engine blowing up.
Couple questions for ya. You got tuned by Alan at Edge, right? Did he say anything negative about having the blow off valve on the hot side charge pipe versus the cold side? Would you be able to ask him his opinion on that? I asked a friend who recently went big turbo on his ST his opinion and he suggested to just stick with kits like CVF and CPE that have the BOV on the cold side.
I like the hot side because it has the most restriction and smaller diameter pipe and it gets rid of the chance of the pipes popping off under pressure. I personally didn’t want to spend 500 on a cold side pipe when I can get a full hot side pipe. I don’t feel any difference in throttle response.
.64 is great if you aren't planing to build the engine. .86 definitely will need some engine internals. Pushing the 2.0 ecoboost on stock internals over 415hp, well, you're just at the limit.
Save yourself a headache and get all piping hot and cold and make damn sure all vacuum lines are tight and secure because they will come off while data logging, then you'll have to do the log all over again.
What is that mod to the passenger side cowl cover below the wiper? It doesnt appear to have any function that i can see.
i just recently finished my BNR3071 (.72 ar) turbo upgrade along with the XDi hpfp/RS injectors, and its a good set up. On E40 at 29psi I am around 420-430whp, and can dial it up quite a bit with bigger injectors. But I purposely limited my power by running RS injectors which are about 100cc up from ST ones (from Rockauto, and they're cheaper than stock ST injectors lol). I still run the stock clutch but power shifting 3-4 or 4-5 and I do notice some pretty heavy slipping...but driving normal or doing single gear pulls its not too bad. Scat packs, S550s modded, M3's, Supras, you name it I've run them down and I'm not even pushing my car that much. Definitely get good ventilation (catch cans, vented if possible) and run that upgraded PCV baffled plate! Of course all the supporting mods, but those listed above are the main power adders. Ive been on this set up for almost 10k miles and its been great..as you said you have to get used to losing the low end torque, but it doesnt matter much when you start getting boost around 3500-3800 and can push your max power all the way up to redline. The power curve is insane vs the stock turbo, which is great FBO/E30 for track days or autocross, but any highway runs that stock K03 is just checking out early and useless lol. Plus the exhale kit with the HKSS bov, it sounds amazing at WOT between shifts.. no more of that 'pssshhhhh' stuff you get on the upgraded BOV on the stock turbo.
the drone is going to come from your exhaust type...straight pipe will drone a lot. You need resonators to reduce drone. I run the CNT Racing catless 3" dp to an SRS 3" straight pipe with an aftermarket Vibrant 14" resonator just after the downpipe...sounds amazing. i was running the CNT Racing cat-back with my dp, but that 2.5" set up is restricted once you pass 400whp.
And Ill bet you $20 that CEL is a P0420 from your cat-less dp...I have it too but Ive been too lazy for about 2 years now to install my defouler lol
Bahaha yup cause my down pipe.
I’m at about 360 wheel. I had the cowl intake before big turbo. But ditched it for the 3in cause of the Garrett. Don’t notice any drone on the ford performance exhaust which is nice. But I may go to a 3in, we shall see. Do you have any recommendations for a pcv baffle kit?
@@jacobMMotorsport i went with the Radium Engineering PCV baffled plate. Its nice looking and good quality. The only issue you may run into is the check valve they provide may not be sufficient for a BT..according to BNR for instance, they recommend a different one to use instead of the supplied valve. I contacted Radium, they claimed that was bs. But after 9k miles on my setup, i started getting smoke on acceleration. Im going to remove the check valve and see if its functioning. Otherwise, Id say Radium or Damond is fine. Radium was about $40 cheaper and has one spare port, where the Damond has 2 spare ports. I only run 2 OCC's..one on the valve cover side (intake piping) and one on the intake manifold side (this one is vented using the damond VTA kit).
The exhaust restriction (back pressure) is mostly for 400+whp. ive seen some tuners tell you to go 3" for sure if you're shooting for bigger power. Stock fueling wont reach 400 in MOST case without Meth or high octane fuel, so the 2.5" is fine below 400.
Just wanna ask, are u running spacers on the st? If so what size?
Nope just lowering springs
What about a Big Turbo for 100k mile car in a focus st??
Depends how it was taken care of
I’m planning on a gtx2867 .64 I want faster spool for drag racing and lsd and new clutch
.86 is better
There is no lag with these turbos
All you need is a cpe exhale kit for the cold side with your choice of bov. So what if its not Japanese? You can still definitely use an HKS 😂. Its all subjective.
You dont NEED a hot side charge pipe kit. Been BT 2867R making 400whp on 26psi E40 with aux fuel for about 3 years now. Have yet to blow the hot side charge pipe off.
If your not utilizing the external WG definitely buy a ln exhaust elbow that eliminates that or you'll run the risk of cracking your cylinder head. The exhaust will swirl in that portion of the garrett EWG superheating it.
If your on a tight budget. Keep your car stock. You gotta pay to play. That should be common sense
Yo bruh what hood strut u using??
Race line
I’ve been thinking of pulling the trigger on the cast iron intake manifold from mountune. Think it’s worth it?
Do it