Our main supply line is 3/4”. I plan on having 3 beds on this zone. Would I run 1/2” pvc from the valve to the entire zone or keep it at 3/4”? Our our GPM is 15. The beds go around the perimeter of the yard so there’s a long distance the water must travel to get to the farthest bed. Thanks!
Run the 3/4 at least. But running 15 gpm through 3/4 is not recommended. Velocity will be over 5 feet per sec creating more pressure loss. You may need to split the zone into 2 valves. It will probably still work but I wouldn’t do it.
I like to use cost based pricing. So that is time plus materials plus a profit percentage. Some guys charge per foot of drip used and some charge per square foot of the bed area. It really is what works for you and the more you do the better you get at pricing it.
I am working on building a system that will pump water out of my creek to a couple of different areas. The zones are not close to each other. Can my valve boxes be in two different areas? I also am going to be teeing off the main line and putting three hydrants to water animals with. The three zones will be for my fruit tree orchard and two garden areas. I may expand this later. I am looking at using a DC pump and putting a bladder tank on it and some solar panels with a marine battery to run it. Any ideas on this? Right now I can figure out where the valve box would go. If I had one on the lower end and one on the higher end it would work I believe.
Essentially you can put your valve boxes anywhere as long as you have main line and wire there if you are doing a automatic system. I like to be strategic in my valve box and valve placement. Not in the way of anything but also easy to get to. It may be good to consider putting the valve close to each zone that it operates if these areas are real far apart. Like the tree zone valve close to the trees, the garden valve close to the garden. This may help with pressure loss. But if they are fairly close you can manifold them so they are all in one valve box. A few ideas for ya.
@@AmericanIrrigator Thanks for the tips. I got a visual of what you are saying. So the wire just has to all run from the valves back to the controller? So I need to have the wire ran in the main trench and then branch off to the valve boxes, then run back to the controller. Is there any specific gauge wire I need for distance. Max distance might be 300 ft.
As always great info! Thank you. I have a question on an unrelated topic. Do you have a recommendation for irrigation clocks that can be used with an app. Seems to be a lot of different brands. Wonder if you like one better than the other.
Thanks. I like Rainbird’s and Hunter’s wifi controllers the best. Rachio is good and I’ve heard the B Hyve is good but I have not used it personally. I think it depends on who is going to use it and have access to it. If it’s only for personal use and it is just going to be you using it, Hunter Hydrawise is a great option.
Be sure to watch all the way to the end because I give some tips on how long to run a drip irrigation system like this.
Very simple and easy to understand. Thanks American Irrigator.
Thank you. Glad you enjoy it.
Our main supply line is 3/4”. I plan on having 3 beds on this zone. Would I run 1/2” pvc from the valve to the entire zone or keep it at 3/4”? Our our GPM is 15. The beds go around the perimeter of the yard so there’s a long distance the water must travel to get to the farthest bed. Thanks!
Run the 3/4 at least. But running 15 gpm through 3/4 is not recommended. Velocity will be over 5 feet per sec creating more pressure loss. You may need to split the zone into 2 valves. It will probably still work but I wouldn’t do it.
I was wandering if you could give me some advice on how to quote on jobs like this ?
I like to use cost based pricing. So that is time plus materials plus a profit percentage. Some guys charge per foot of drip used and some charge per square foot of the bed area. It really is what works for you and the more you do the better you get at pricing it.
Figure out material, then your time multiplied by your per hour rate, and add profit to it. Best way to bid irrigation in my opinion.
Agreed.
I am working on building a system that will pump water out of my creek to a couple of different areas. The zones are not close to each other. Can my valve boxes be in two different areas? I also am going to be teeing off the main line and putting three hydrants to water animals with. The three zones will be for my fruit tree orchard and two garden areas. I may expand this later. I am looking at using a DC pump and putting a bladder tank on it and some solar panels with a marine battery to run it. Any ideas on this?
Right now I can figure out where the valve box would go. If I had one on the lower end and one on the higher end it would work I believe.
Essentially you can put your valve boxes anywhere as long as you have main line and wire there if you are doing a automatic system. I like to be strategic in my valve box and valve placement. Not in the way of anything but also easy to get to. It may be good to consider putting the valve close to each zone that it operates if these areas are real far apart. Like the tree zone valve close to the trees, the garden valve close to the garden. This may help with pressure loss. But if they are fairly close you can manifold them so they are all in one valve box. A few ideas for ya.
@@AmericanIrrigator Thanks for the tips. I got a visual of what you are saying. So the wire just has to all run from the valves back to the controller? So I need to have the wire ran in the main trench and then branch off to the valve boxes, then run back to the controller. Is there any specific gauge wire I need for distance. Max distance might be 300 ft.
Yes that is right.
@@AmericanIrrigator Thanks buddy
As always great info! Thank you. I have a question on an unrelated topic. Do you have a recommendation for irrigation clocks that can be used with an app. Seems to be a lot of different brands. Wonder if you like one better than the other.
Thanks. I like Rainbird’s and Hunter’s wifi controllers the best. Rachio is good and I’ve heard the B Hyve is good but I have not used it personally. I think it depends on who is going to use it and have access to it. If it’s only for personal use and it is just going to be you using it, Hunter Hydrawise is a great option.