Trying MyFordBoy's Method
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- Опубликовано: 26 мар 2021
- I review MyFordBoy's Lost PLA Greensand Casting method. It's a combination of Lost PLA Casting and Greensand Casting, so it should be pretty straightforward... right?
The Investment Powder used can be bought here: tentries.com/product/lost-wax...
MyFordBoy's Channel: / myfordboy
Warning: Molten metal is extremely hot and dangerous! Do not try to replicate this unless you know what you are doing!
#tentries
#meltingmetal
#castingmetal
#meltingaluminum
#casting
#melting
#Greensand
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Try #1 at pronouncing 'Myfordboy' was a fail but I guess you get nine more tries. Myfordboy is the man.
That was probably already Try 3 of that pronunciation. My editor hates me lol
Yh Myford is the name of a British lathe manufacturer back in the day. I think myfordboy is a reference to the lathe he owns as it comes up a lot in his videos.
It's "myford-boy" not "my-ford-boy" Myford is an ancient brand of British machine tools.
TIL! I thought he just dug that car manufacturer.
Nah, you did it right on that machining! Happy Thanksgiving! I am grateful for your entertaining videos!
This is great! MFB is a bit of a genius at casting, so good to see that someone else is able to reproduce. Re the burnout, my bet is that it just works with his oven and plaster, so no concern. He said "heat slowly". You made a guess at slow, and that wasn't slow enough...it doesn't mean a slow linear ramp won't work.
If you watch MyFordBoy's video carefully, you will see he pauses on the bag of investment he used. It has the instructions on the label. He did not go into great detail as he knows that everyone will used different investment compounds and would follow the appropriate directions. Your first try failed because you tried to cram too much in your furnace. When doing block investment burn out you need to have room around the entire investment block for proper melt out and sintering the investment compound.
Myford -- pronounced me Ford -- is a brand of lathes and milling machines built in Nottingham England. You can actually see the name on a machine nameplate in some of his videos. I'm impressed with his consistent work and how he gains more skills over fifteen years.
Amen
"Check back soon for try 2..."
Narrator: And then they never heard from him again.
Just found your channel and this is right up my alley! Keep up the good work!
That's great! Thank you, and thanks for stopping by!
Interesting video. Thanks 😀 👍. Would be interested to see more about your mill.
I would have liked to see how you went from 2:26 to 2:28. I realise it’s second nature to you, but watching your whole process would have been great. Your comments about the intricate pattern, and the extra height/weight of aluminium were instructive. Thank you.
I think the reason is that any thing you could design with a CAD you can easily print it with a 3D printer , and then lost PLA then became the easiest method to convert this object to metal , while the traditional sand casting require you to tool a model for the part to Greensand Cast or use an real copy of the part
Additional ideas.
1. Cover the 3D printed master thinly with plaster using a brush. Put some steel wool around and cover again with plaster to build up some thickness. Bury the whole mold in sand and burn out in sand, the thin plaster mold should heat up quickly and dry out while the plastic is melting out. Then cast. This is what I would do because I dont have a dedicated oven with temp and time switch etc.
2. Spray the master with 800°C heat resistant spray paint. Dribble fine sand on to the wet paint on the 2nd 3rd 4th coat to build up some thinkness. Burn out and cast like before. This also should work with aliminium.
The investment casting looked damp shortly before you put it into into the furnace. Could a longer stage of air drying before burnout have helped? Great vid
Possibly. If I had used the burnout cycle from my first video, the investment would have been a little stronger at the end. A proper burnout cycle evaporates the free water pretty effectively without causing damage to the mold
Looking at your pour, I got the impression that the temperature of your molten aluminium was way too high? It might have caused the cracking of your molds..
Anyway, good info on how to, and excellent choice to study Myfordboy's method. He is very knowledgeable! (I bet he knows exactly how to use heatcycles properly:)
I wanted to ask a very specific question, when raising the temperature to burn out the plastic, let's say up to 650 degrees celsius over 8 hours. When you say slowly, would something like 2.7 degrees Celsius every 2 mins work. What is the ideal rate of increase per min?. Also could you clarify why you reduce the the temperature at the end of the mold after its completely burned out and to what temperature for how long. Thank you for taking the time to read my comment and looking forward to your reply.
Really, it's best to follow a burnout schedule/cycle. You can find the burnout cycle I use at tentries.com/lost-pla-casting/. A simple steady increase in temperature isn't ideal for burning out investment. A staged approach as shown in the link works much better.
I let the investment mold cool so that it wouldn't break due to the thermal shock of touching the much cooler sand
@@TenTries Thank you very much, really like your channel and hope you can make some cool aerospace parts, the more complicated the better xD
also use a vacume to suck the air out the of investment slurry. plaster of paris is an awesome investment material to use as well very low amount of air bubbles. if u want better heat retainment try pearlite in the mix.
You can’t argue with success!
Thanks! Myfordboy put together a great video, so it wasn't too hard to get this result!
for lost pla, if i used sand instead use paris plaster.its ok?
You'll want to use casting plaster, which is not the same as plaster of paris. Casting plaster has some additives that make it more suitable for casting. Have you seen my videos on Lost PLA casting? I talk about how you can make casting plaster from ordinary ingredients.
If you are referring to just pouring aluminum directly onto PLA without burning out the PLA first, definitely don't do that. It can send molten aluminum spraying everywhere, an you will almost certainly not have a very good cast. The PLA and water in the plaster must be burnt out
Alternative of investment plaster
Isn't ivestment powder just gypsum (30%) and slilica powder (70%) mix? why is it so expensive?
I just had an idea but don't have the equipment to try it - lost pewter casting - make mold of PLA part with high temp resistant silicone for maximum detail, then cast with Pewter which won't melt the silicone, then create a new plaster mold with the pewter part and melt it out as per lost PLA method and then cast with Aluminium?
That's a cool idea! I have some fusible alloy (even lower melting temp), so I might have to give it a go! That might fix any ash issues
On my channel, you can see some old silicone pewter casting videos. Smooth On makes a great high temp flexible silicone for that task.
Interesting, but what would be the advantage of pewter over wax?
Still waiting on try 2
make a casting of a silver ring skull
why use investment, Plaster of Paris/Fine sand mix works just as well and PLA will burn out in an oven set to 220 celsius I leave it at least 24 hours before burn out ( for the plaster mix to lose more moisture) and when ready to cast put the plaster mould on the furnace whilst melting the Ally to heat up then put it in the green sand
220C, no matter the time, is not hot enough to expel the chemically bonded water. You might be getting lucky now, but you shouldn't play with your own safety like that
@@TenTries Maybe the 50/50 mix with sand helps I've had success with Ally but I would not try this with brass. so far so good, Probably 10 times or more and a few of those I could have reused the mold If I did not have to wash it off, so it definitely works for me. Don't believe everything that you see on yuotube. I do prototyping design and cast/machining for a living, (not posting youtube vids) so luck has nothing to do with it, People who do casting with no PPE are the ones who need luck. So maybe you should try my method before criticizing, Thanks for reply
Can you really burn out the PLA at only 220 C? I print PLA with the printer set to 210C...
@@slicktires2011 It is slow but it does melt out
@@TenTries I have NEVER had a problem, I use sand/plaster mix and use an oven to melt the PLA out when I pour the ally in I don't have my face over it (I also use PPE). The problem with the fucking world is that there are too many snowflakes who are scared of everything
.
Lost foam, lost pla and lost wax all have one problem that a wood pattern does not have. If the casting fails, you lost the pattern. Unless you have, like for lost wax a silicone mold to make a duplicate. Lost foam has that option but that can get expensive, depending on how far you want to take it. Lost pla, reprint, every time your casting fails. I'm a patternmaker by trade, haven't found anything that can be done with cnc 3d printing or industrial lost wax yet. Sculptures don't count.
FYI it's Myford not My Ford; from the channel description:
_My user name comes from my lathe which is a British made Myford, nothing to do with the Ford motor company._
Ha, wish RUclips would let me go back and dub that over without reposting the whole video
Two degrees per minute is not slow in casting, it's rapid.
I'll keep that in mind for another Try. What would you suggest?
Legal parabéns
Obrigado!
I saw that method every where
Suppose I should have looked everywhere before saying that I hadn't seen it
@@TenTries Right
You'll have to use very dry green sand, or the plaster will suck up humidity
Once the plaster gets humid, you're screwed
True, I moistened the sand just enough to pass the break test, as usual. It was not moist enough to affect more than a very thin layer on the outside of the investment, away from where the aluminum contacts it
Basically the same as lost foam but with burn out. Its how they make alloy engine blocks. Its 50 year old technology but you never heard about it?
The real question is why do I always carry a heavy military bag around with me at all times
Do you want back problems? Because that's how you get back problems
@@TenTries nah it's because I have no other option for my things going it's pretty good bag though weighing in at 36 pounds with two binders and one Chromebook
you dont have to split your design i guess thats why
For sure, that could be 'part' of it
search:
robinsonfoundry
We're actually in the same Facebook group 😆. He does some great work!
Agreed. I've been doing this awhile and just found his vids!
did you die? ive been waiting for pt 2 lol
Lol not yet, ad revenue doesn't pay the bills so I have been building another business
Credit where credit is due but not where it is not due. Myford did this about 3 years ago. He certainly was not the first. Pauls garage did it about 4 years ago and 3DTPO 4 more before that i.e. 8 years ago. Myford's result suffered some mould fallout and metal miss fill. I know where you got that crazy pouring basin design from and I urge you to abandon it for it is crap. A good basin will keep the sprue full, yours certainly did and indeed because of its design could not. There did seem to be a lot of gas coming from your solidifying metal. Also if you want a half solid castings you need to provide some risers.