Watch THIS Before You Quit Lost PLA Casting Aluminum!
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- I learn lost PLA casting as a novice. I turn 3D print plastic parts into useful aluminum parts at home in the first ever episode of Ten Tries! Who wouldn't want to cast homemade aluminum parts!?
Not another how to lost PLA casting aluminum video. Unlike most lost PLA casting aluminum videos, I show you my mistakes and break down the problems and solutions!
The 3D print files, casting plaster recipe, Python code, and much more is now available! Go to tentries.com/l... and follow the links in the project text! I just ask that you attribute "Ten Tries" and a link to my site if you use my files for a public or school project.
Casting Plaster MSDS (the "right"* stuff): www.usg.com/co...
CORRECTION:
*While this plaster is right for casting aluminum, it isn't the best for investment casting. Check in later for a side-by-side comparison of the DIY Investment formula and a commercial investment formula or two. (likely Ransom and Randolf Ultra-Vest and maybe one other)
Casting Plaster MSDS (the wrong stuff): www.usg.com/co...
Casting Plaster Amazon Screenshot (the wrong stuff): www.amazon.com...
Sprue Design: / @vogman
Music:
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Vanilla by MELURAN / meluran
Creative Commons - Attribution 3.0 Unported- CC BY 3.0
Free Download / Stream: bit.ly/_vanilla
Music promoted by Audio Library • Vanilla - MELURAN (No ...
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0:00 Intro
1:01 Try 1
3:48 Try 2
5:11 Try 3
7:17 Try 4
8:04 Try 5
9:28 Try 6
![[Tutorial] 3d print Lost PLA with plaster mold melting aluminum can making sculpture](/img/1.gif)
Гипс можно смешать с древесным пеплом 50/50 что бы уменьшить его растрескивание. При этом подойдет любой гипс. Лучше использовать скульптурный гипс но подойдет абсолютно любой марки. Даже самый плохой. При этом греть его до температуры 750С не нужно. Это слишком много! Это только увеличит количество трещин. Достаточно 2 часа при температуре 300С. Я обычно делал такой график температур: 1 или 2 часа при температуре 100С (зависит от объема гипсовой формы), 1 час при температуре 150С - 200С, и 2 часа при температуре 300С. Этого хватало даже для форм большего объема. После чего гипс обязательно должен остыть! Заливать расплавленный алюминий нужно в остывшую до комнатной температуры форму! Это важно. Дело в том что гипс очень чувствителен к перепаду температур. И при нагреве до 700С он неизбежно трескается и форма рушится внутри. Когда гипсовая форма разогрета (даже при температуре 200С - 300С) и мы заливаем в нее расплавленный метал, он неизбежно пытается выдавить воздух изнутри формы и давит на ее стенки своим весом. А вес метала всегда больше чем вес гипса. Разогретая форма не дает расплавленному алюминию застыть прежде чем форма начинает разрушаться. Внутри форма неизбежно рушится и портится. Если заливать расплавленный алюминий в остывшую форму то он остывает и кристаллизуется еще до того как гипсовая форма разогреется и начнет разрушаться. Для того чтобы воздух не мешал заливке для него нужно сделать отдельные каналы в самой верхней части модели. А расплавленный метал должен заполнять форму начиная снизу. Это позволит полностью выгнать воздух из формы а так же металл вытолкнет собой любой мусор который мог образоваться внутри формы во время ее прокалки в печи. Не волнуйтесь по поводу того что металл остынет раньше чем заполнит форму. Как показала практика этого не происходит. Это может произойти только если модель имеет тонкие стенки. В этом случае можно использовать сплав алюминия с цинком. Силумин. Он более текущий по сравнению с обычным алюминием и имеет меньшую температуру плавления. Или сплав алюминия с кремнием. Дюраль (автомобильные детали). Он тоже хорошо протекает но температура плавления у него больше.
Your one smart man I must say
The trick is mixing the plaster whit sawdust. Then the paster gets porus wen you burn the pla out. And all the gasses gan escape...
Good stuff, I have been doing the same for a while... a couple of hints...
If you are a tru DIY guy, an ole freezer or dehumidifier pump can easily be tasked as a vacuume pump. Makes a heck of a difference as it also degasses and dehumidifies.
And yep, as much as its fun making boiling bubbles, let it cool down naturally.
And make sure you pour with a big reservior.
Fantastic vid production - love the effort and I am subscribed.
Oh yeah, please never ever do that alu mini um into water again. if you get the temp just right, the result is wonderful if you are recording live... because when it happens you wont be able to upload the recording.
ruclips.net/video/Rt-dtjYORok/видео.html
And yes I have done it myself and survived... but wouldnt do it again.
Thanks for the tips! I'll keep an eye on the classified ads now!
Mix some sand into the plaster
Vibrate the flask while the plaster solidify
What does the sand do?
@@TenTries it makes the plaster more permeable to air/vapour
Pure plaster needs a vacuum pump
@@ronnybe7994 I might have to try that out
I know this video is two years old but you have to pour in one solid smooth motion you cannot for 1 stop and poor again in the same mold
Just a suggestion but you need to keep the flame on the molten metal and on the material in the flask as you are pouring yes you were pouring at two lower temperature just keep the flame on it on the mold and the crucible with your liquid metal and that’s the trick for better flow
It is sufficient for the plaster to dry out in 50 - 70 C. Putting it to 100 C is too violent causing it to crack as water will explode out. Good work
try coating in thin dry wall compound and then cover with sand, while wet. a few coats then place this in a container and add loose dry sand.
This should allow the gases to escape better.
Your intro is FIRE :) Blows mine away.
Just took a morning to learn, an afternoon to set up, and 3 days for the computer to render!
@@TenTries 3 days, ouch.
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing this 🙌 🙏
what a genius idea of a channel, keep it up!
Glad you enjoy it!
I would love to try this but looks difficult
Nice video, very informative!
Glad you think so!
Yours was the first comment ever on this channel. Remember that when it grows 🙌🏼
Get proper investment plaster,it wont crack up on heating, cracks are to much moisture left in th eplaster.Invert the mold and let most of the pla run out at melt temp, not burn out at higher temp.shallow forms work best, deep narrow crevices are harder to fill evenly as gas gets trapped.keep your pieces as close to the top as possible with vents.
Thanks for the tips!
Add sprues to let the air out. Air bubbles go up.
I got an idea, might seem extra but could have better results.. Obviously this wont work with every design you're trying to make but 3D print a 2 piece mold, fill with wax, take that wax cast and put in plaster, you can burn out wax with much less heat, pour aluminum into plaster mold.
interesting and incredible video 👍
Wouldn't casting with wax add carbon to the metal? Carbon is in steel.
Put a stainless bowl or plate in your quenchbucket to prevent melting holes
Jim the blacksmith
You did in the last quench though
great vid! could you share the quantities of talc you used for the new plaster? i also didn't quite catch this thing: you added in the plaster talc and also soap and graphite? if so, quantities? thanks a lot
The quantities of each ingredient are available on tentries.com/lost-pla-casting/ under "Downloads:". It's the link titled "Investment Plaster Formula which will download a spreadsheet with the proportions of each ingredient. The numbers are all in grams, unless otherwise specified
En mi experiencia para que no quede con poros o granitos.
1. Retirar la escoria con bicarbonato de sodio
2. Desgasificar. Puede hacerlo con pastillas de cloro para baño, en poquito cantidad y varias repeticiones.
3. Muy importante.Nunca revolver o quitar la capa que se hace luego de agrar el color.
4. Molde libre de humedad y si está muy caliente es mejor.
5. Tratar de no estar en corrientes de viento.
Todo esto se hace para evitar que el hidrógeno penetre en el aluminio.
De nada 😊
veg oil guy rocks!!!
9:09 Fish like😅
Great vid! Are you putting the flask upside down so the melted PLA can flow to outside?
Thanks! No, I tried it both ways, and found that it doesn't matter so much if you use natural clear PLA with thin walls and little infill. The clear stuff doesn't have pigments, and therefore doesn't leave much ash. Ideally, PLA ((C3H4O2)n) should burn out cleanly into CO2 and water vapor. Realistically, it tends to boil off into the air and partially combust, so you should always wear a mask around it.
I found that flipping the mold increases the risk of cracking a bit, so I try to avoid it. If you only have pigmented PLA (the TiO in white PLA doesn't burn at all btw), you may not be able to avoid flipping the flask
@@TenTries Oh i get it, great answer thanks. Another thing that may help improve the quality of your pieces is to have a higher flask, so when you pour the aluminuim you will need to pour a extra amount to reach the top of the flask, and this extra amount implies extra weight added to the molten aluminium column, excerting pressure, and thus making the aluminium reach the more distant/smal spots (sorry for the bad english!)
@@maxicordier6348 Your English is good! You're absolutely right! I tried that in part 2 and it worked wonders! Where were you when I was trying to figure this out? Haha
Here's a link to the full project:
tentries.com/lost-pla-casting/
@@maxicordier6348 Would you mind if I asked what your native language is and if the captions seem to translate properly?
@@TenTries I speak spanish, im from Argentina. And yes the captions are great! 💪
Quel type de plâtre avez-vous utilisé ? Est-ce du plâtre de Paris ?
I cast farm bells from cast aluminum alloy.
you can make a vacuum assist caster with a cheap vacuum pump from harbor freight
I just got a free freezer compressor and I'm planning on using that. If it doesn't work, I'm going to HF for sure!
@@TenTries the average vacuum caster has 3 cfp If I remember. I think it is what I use
sorry cfm
Ah, I'm seeing that these refrigeration compressors generally work at 1CFM or less. I'll prepare myself to buy a cheap vacuum pump. Thanks!
@@TenTries for burnout I Take it up 200 degrees F to 500 hold for three hours. then two hundred per hour up to 1450 for five hours then 1600 for two hours. the 1600
burns out 95% of ash.
It sure is more easy if you use an aluminum alloy made for sand casting, it flows much better. it's rarely 100% aluminum in an aluminum part u se :P
Absolutely, I alloyed some silicon with the aluminum in my sand casting video. It flowed much better and had a better surface quality too!
I want to see if I can save a bunch of time using a microwave and an old croc pot or coffee cup as a flask. then once the mic removes all the water ill pop it in my oven four 2 hours then cast. I can't afford a kiln and want to find a cheaper way to a burn out.
sheesh thats a long time for the burnout process
Yup, I bet it could be done faster, but it wasn't really worth the time to figure out. Not when it's so easy to build another burnout furnace
don't pour down the hole pour to the side of it.
hi creative
have a question pls help me
how can I separate Al from plastic???
The PLA plastic should be completely burned away after the burnout process.
If you mean that there is plastic attached to the Aluminum before you melt it, like the lining inside pop cans, most people just melt it and it burns away right before the aluminum melts. If you burn plastic make sure to wear a respirator. The smoke is really nasty and you do not want to breathe it in. Also, make sure you don't force a lot of plastic into your melt as it could splatter aluminum when the plastic boils.
If you have aluminum wire with insulation, you should strip the insulation off of the metal before melting it. There are some wire auto stripper videos out there, but I may make one as well if there is room for improvement in the videos that already exist (e.g. no translated captions, confusing build directions etc.)
@@TenTries thanks , I send please check your pv
1. Ideally your investment mix will consist of 3 equal parts plaster, fine sand and ludo (crumbled pieces of former investment material), and of course water. Mixed to a thin milkshake consistency.
2. I have never seen an investment submerged. PATIENCE. Just let it air cool for several hours.
3. Before even putting into flask, vents are a MUST. Call it wasted aluminum art or whatever. There's a reason Rodin is world famous and you are not. Vents are a necessity. Period.
Haha a war almost starts every time an american says aluminium wrong, but even typing it wrong has to be the troll of the decade 😂
The Part 2 video, 3D print files, casting plaster recipe, Python code, and much more is now available! Go to tentries.com/lost-pla-casting/ and follow the links in the project text! I just ask that you attribute "Ten Tries" and a link to my site if you use my files for a public or school project.
hydroperm by usg or randolph and ransom, look up jeweler supplies. I am going to do some experiments with hydroerm, 235 mesh silica flower and potters plaster. was thinking 33 % each.
I realize I'm quite off topic but do anybody know of a good site to stream new movies online ?
@Felix Diego Try FlixZone. You can find it on google =)
@Felix Diego try FlixZone. Just google for it =)
@Felix Diego I would suggest FlixZone. Just search on google for it :)
👍💓!!
You didn't mention what kind of aluminum you were using. its not all the same. you may want to you something that was cast before. Nice video though. cheers
Good point! I made this video some time ago, and have learned a bunch since then. I was using almost entirely melted pop cans (98%Al-1%Mg-1%Mn, I believe) which does not fill a mold very well. In my sand casting video, I tried to alloy the pop can ingots with elemental silicon to reduce the viscosity and surface tension. The difference was pretty astounding! You can see that project here: tentries.com/sand-casting-everything-you-need-to-know-to-get-started/
And thanks! I'll add the alloy I used to the description!
Fair warning you should never use stainless steel in a forge smelter or welding without a proper gas mask it makes a toxic gas
I believe that stainless steel stick welding would generate some thick, toxic, brown gas. Is that what you're referring to? What gas is it, if not?
@@TenTries I know I am late to the party, but it is Hexavalent Chromium, and is usually invisible. Powerful carcinogen.
@@TenTries Hey, no, the bulk of fumes from stick welding is due to the flux from the outside of the stick being vaporized. Hexavalent chromium is what is being discussed but generally you have to get the stainless up to welding/melting heat to generate it from solid metal. Stainless, especially 316 stainless is used frequently in high temp applications like BBQ grills without any chromium release so neating up your stainless cups to burn out the PLA is not going to release any chromium metal fumes or nickel and actually, nickel is by far the bigger risk with some stainless alloys.
Hexavalent chromium is a much bigger exposure hazard from Portland cement dust, electroplating vapors and some paints.
Beer cans aren't useful???
Not empties
Your plaster is all cracked. You roasted it way too long
i dont know who translated your English description into Chineae, but i have to say there are many wrong Chinese charicters.
It is auto translated from English, because I only know English and some Portuguese. If you feel like emailing corrections to contact@tentries.com I can get the description fixed
I'm cool wink
Melt the metal right into the mold
Might have to try that out one of these days. I believe that's how it was done sometimes in ancient times
i like your glue gun, is it your moms?
No, it's your mom's
Is this a scientific lesson?
A bit, yes. My background is in engineering and I've always been fascinated by practical applications of science
yeah, i fucking know what aluminum is. whats with the time-wasting intro.
Yeah, this was our first video. We've been working on 'trimming more fat' since then. Thanks for the input!
@@TenTries well you're going I. The right direction then. "All killer no filler"
@@davidcollins6164 I haven't heard that saying before, but I like it!