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the cracking probably happened because of water expansion, or maybe PLA expansion? you can raise the temp to 60 pretty rapidly, keep it there for a bit, keep it at 80ish for a bit, and keep it around 90-110 for a bit, then start going up the rest of the way, doing the same thing again around the melting temps of PLA?

I cast my metal ingots in one layer of cellophane

I have done a fair bit of lost pla casting in ceramic shells in the past and one thing I did not get right for a long time was the necessity to include a reservoir for molten aluminium on top of the casting. It seems like a stupid mistake to make retrospectively, but I kept wondering why - especially the thinner features - always came out crooked and just weird-looking. I knew that shrinkage was a thing but I thought that it would not need much extra material to compensate for that. In one casting, I accidentally over-filled the mould like crazy and to my surprise, the cast came out almost perfect. Since then, I have always added a lot of material as a sort of 'thermal reservoir'. Since everything can be re-molten, it's not a big deal but the difference it made to the quality of my castings was night and day. It also made me re-consider part-orientation. Now I try to always have the thinnest features at the bottom of the mould to make sure they solidify first, pulling material from the bigger, still liquid parts of the cast downward and filling up any shrinkage.

experiment should have been brush on application not soaking coz you cant expect to soak all the wood in your house project

I add a table spoon of plain salt to the melt and it flows even better than this

Do not use play sand. Go get some green diamond 130 grit sand and your surface finish will be much better.

I cast aluminum for a living. I can hardly start listing how many things you did wrong. Every alloy cast differently. Fire clay is better, but powdered bentonite is cheap if you insist on making your own. Petrobond is easy to make.

have you tried using used motor oil instead of water? I believe its called greensand.

I hate cleaning up sand castings. It's tricky around angles etc

Would be interesting to see a test on this using a larger structure 🤔

Please note that you should get a return through your vents. If no, you may not have enough superheat on your melt. The temperature of your melt should be be at least 200F over the melting point. Also heating the casting faces of the cope and drag will help you get better surface finish. hth

I once cast a good detailed set of Abraham Lincoln using lime powder. It was an open top pour and not gas locked in a 2 part mold. It did not spew and made good casting. I would not try a closed mold though. I may do a small very small 2 part mold ( experimental) and see what happens. Bentonite added some may keep the steam away some. I did like the fine detail in lime powder with a small bit of water mix.

I think you should look up vacuum pouring. Look up --> Microwave Kilns, Lost Wax/PLA/Resin casting with a Vacuum Cleaner . You can also try sand which lets out the air .

Can this handle heat?

I think the shrinking issue is inherent to the alloy, not due to the mold.

Adequate runners and risers are very basic foundry practice. So is pre-heating the sand moulds.

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The mould has to be 10% bigger to allow for shrinkage otherwise the part will not be the same size, just thought I'd say.

great channel concept. subscribed.

The sand needs to be finer. When squeeze testing it should copy and hold every crease of your palm.

Nifty! I would want a PTFE coated temperature probe though, putting steel in certain acid mixtures would not turn out well.

Respect

I'm new to pouring. Every time I "pound" the clay into the mold, the clay "cracks" in certain places. It usually doesn't crack or split, where I was using the hammer. When I add more clay, it still happens. Is it possible I'm pounding too hard on the hammer? Thank you in advance.

Isn't ivestment powder just gypsum (30%) and slilica powder (70%) mix? why is it so expensive?

Just a suggestion but you need to keep the flame on the molten metal and on the material in the flask as you are pouring yes you were pouring at two lower temperature just keep the flame on it on the mold and the crucible with your liquid metal and that’s the trick for better flow

Hello! I want to build a stirplate + low voltage warmer foil. My question is does the moving magnet generate eletriciti in a heating foil? Is that a problem, what do you think?

Did you try lost wax or lost foam?

I always wondered how plumbus's were made.

Wouldn't casting with wax add carbon to the metal? Carbon is in steel.

Something that should be tried is after the pour hold the mold/can firmly with the pliers and take an electric sander without abrasive attached turn it on and hold the rubber/velcro cushion against the handle of the pliers for a bit before it solidifies to see if it can move trapped air to the top and out of the casting.

did you die? ive been waiting for pt 2 lol

Secret fireproof wood? This was discovered in the 1800's! 😂 Also, not a long term solution for exterior use! "In terms of moisture resistance, sodium silicate soaked samples were exposed to effects of weathering for a one year period. It was found that there was evidence of leaching of sodium silicate from the wood, with approximately fifty percent of the sodium silicate removed after one year".

I heard that borax is also good wood treatment that makes it fire resistant, interesting to compare against the sodium silicate

I recently made myself a $30 DRO for my mill which may be of interest "Super cheap Digital Readout (DRO)"

Water plus sand is dangerous! Just don´t try this method, imho! - Evaporating water may explode that flask. One unit of water generates 3.500 units of steam!..

What a DRAG…. Not sure if I can COPE with all of this, But I will Try!… 🤙🏻

When you start with cat litter instead of fine river sand, you fail from penny pinching.

50% sand 50% clay, this is the correct approach, never use water to make it damp, use engine oil..

memang perlu usaha yang betul /// salam hanya bisa melihat anda . salam

you cant just "mix" sand, you have to MULL it. and that takes effort. that was some terrible looking "greensand". way too wet, and barely holding together. i only cast with aluminium castings. extrusion never works very well... wouldnt bother with adding silicon unless doing something stupid thin... theres years of effort have gone into figuring out spruing and risers, mold design for decent castings... well worth doing some more research FIRST.

Amazing work! Thank you for showing us your tries!

Trial and error aren't a waste of time, it's the only reliable process to learn such things, and master them given enough repetition and reflection. You show this very well, and it's an impressive video at that.

"Check back soon for try 2..." Narrator: And then they never heard from him again.

Woe is me! How to repair a pin hole in a stainless steel large stock pot I use for cooking and clothes dying? I need a food safe solder that is ok for high heat. Please anyone? Desperate. Costs too much to replace and is a great stock pot.

👍💓!

👍💓!!

👍💓!!

use fine silica sand