One thing id point out; the more relevant test isnt how long it holds up under a torch; but if it will sustain and spread a flame. It does not take much silicate to stop that.
Impressed! You followed good scientific method taking into account things which would have skewed results such as the moisture content in the wood, thanks so much for your attention to detail. I’m currently trying to make fire resistant cotton clothes but this video will come in handy for other projects! Subbed!
This is widely known at least in central europe. I remember seeing it in very old books 1960-1970 at least. Very surprising someone would patent this and be successfull from keeping it out of the market. I suppose it may have some disadvantages, not sure what exactly.
In my research, I only found a deck treatment using it. I'm betting the biggest disadvantage is cost. In my experience, timber producers don't like to have wood laying around. In a previous job of mine, the timber producers would send us wood that was clearly grown quickly and had a high moisture content by the time we received it. At ~$5 per 2x4 stud, an added cost of a dollar or two would be significant
Would something like this keep wood from combusting from heat? Not necessarily a direct flame? I have been toying with the idea of making a wood-bodied car, and heat from the motor is what is keeping me from starting to design a project like that.
I can't say for sure, because I haven't tested it. It should help though. The highest heat in an engine compartment would be the exhaust manifold. I don't think that gets hot enough to heat up the engine compartment enough to combust wood (230C, 450F), but it may get hot enough to thermally degrade the wood which occurs between 100C, 212F and 170C, 338F. Also, this treatment is notorious for causing wood to rot outdoors, because it can trap water inside the wood.
@@TenTries from my research, an engine an get up to about 220f, so you may be right about it not getting hot enough to combust. My worries is 1. the off chance it does, and 2: The glue being strong enough to withstand that heat, I would definitely need to think of something else to solve that issue. Is there anything else you could think of that could help "Heat Proof" the inside of the hood? ( either laminating another material, etc.)?
I would be worried about the radiant heat off the exhaust manifolds and I would put heat shields or wrap around them. A gas engine under load on the highway with strong winds, hills, etc, they glow red hot, some almost white. I work on UPS delivery trucks with many using a Gm 6.0 vortec engines and other gas engines and with the dog house off at night on test runs on the highway, they glow so bright under some conditions, you can start to see the frame rails, wiring, engine components etc in total darkness and you can feel the radiant heat from it sitting in the cab. Even if the air in the engine bay only gets to 200 degrees, the surfaces of the components that are directly exposed to this thermal radiation will get much hotter. If you notice, unprotected wiring in an engine bay that run near unshielded exhaust will become brittle and its plastic loom wrap will break away much faster than other areas of the engine bay.
Probably, the test was more about the process of fireproofing rather than a fireproof end product. A less flammable/more dense wood would likely burn more slowly with the same process. Pine is just a very common building material here in the states for our "stick built" houses
They say it's acrylic paint whereas this treatment soaks into the wood. Might seem like splitting hairs, but there may be different chemical(s) used and effectiveness
Not that I could tell. Sodium silicate does have a particular smell, but it is vastly overpowered by the smell of charring wood when testing. The foaming that you might notice when I pour molten aluminum on it in the sand casting video is mostly from the sodium silicate giving off water and the wood producing wood gas. In this video, sodium is being given off which you can tell by the yellow flames. With a torch, I was intentionally exceeding the temperature that this treatment works
The shims are supposedly kiln dried, but they certainly could have absorbed some moisture from the air. Drying after the soak was necessary to ensure the water would not affect the test result
@@TenTries Yes sorry, you do still have to dry after as well, but I suggest drying beforehand as wood is decently hygroscopic and will absorb moisture from the air
One thing id point out; the more relevant test isnt how long it holds up under a torch; but if it will sustain and spread a flame. It does not take much silicate to stop that.
Straight forward and to the point. Nice.
Impressed! You followed good scientific method taking into account things which would have skewed results such as the moisture content in the wood, thanks so much for your attention to detail. I’m currently trying to make fire resistant cotton clothes but this video will come in handy for other projects! Subbed!
Thank you, brief and educational.
Would be interesting to see a test on this using a larger structure 🤔
Interesting. Thanks.
Straightforward, thanks for sharing!
No problem, I try to value your time as much as I can!
I really enjoyed watching thanks
Thank you for watching! If you see another process like this and want me to try it out, let me know!
This is widely known at least in central europe. I remember seeing it in very old books 1960-1970 at least. Very surprising someone would patent this and be successfull from keeping it out of the market.
I suppose it may have some disadvantages, not sure what exactly.
In my research, I only found a deck treatment using it. I'm betting the biggest disadvantage is cost.
In my experience, timber producers don't like to have wood laying around. In a previous job of mine, the timber producers would send us wood that was clearly grown quickly and had a high moisture content by the time we received it.
At ~$5 per 2x4 stud, an added cost of a dollar or two would be significant
Excellent video! Subscribed!
Thanks! If any future videos are less than excellent, let me know what can be improved!
Sir, a Very good video. Where can I get "Water Glass". Google couldn't tell me and Amazon is a no go
cool stuff mate!
Thanks! It was a lot of fun to do, too!
Would something like this keep wood from combusting from heat? Not necessarily a direct flame? I have been toying with the idea of making a wood-bodied car, and heat from the motor is what is keeping me from starting to design a project like that.
I can't say for sure, because I haven't tested it. It should help though. The highest heat in an engine compartment would be the exhaust manifold. I don't think that gets hot enough to heat up the engine compartment enough to combust wood (230C, 450F), but it may get hot enough to thermally degrade the wood which occurs between 100C, 212F and 170C, 338F. Also, this treatment is notorious for causing wood to rot outdoors, because it can trap water inside the wood.
@@TenTries from my research, an engine an get up to about 220f, so you may be right about it not getting hot enough to combust. My worries is 1. the off chance it does, and 2: The glue being strong enough to withstand that heat, I would definitely need to think of something else to solve that issue. Is there anything else you could think of that could help "Heat Proof" the inside of the hood? ( either laminating another material, etc.)?
@@thewoodworkinghusky3284 ceramic fiber insulation may help keep the heat away from the wood
@@TenTries thanks, I'm gonna try and look into that!
I would be worried about the radiant heat off the exhaust manifolds and I would put heat shields or wrap around them. A gas engine under load on the highway with strong winds, hills, etc, they glow red hot, some almost white. I work on UPS delivery trucks with many using a Gm 6.0 vortec engines and other gas engines and with the dog house off at night on test runs on the highway, they glow so bright under some conditions, you can start to see the frame rails, wiring, engine components etc in total darkness and you can feel the radiant heat from it sitting in the cab. Even if the air in the engine bay only gets to 200 degrees, the surfaces of the components that are directly exposed to this thermal radiation will get much hotter. If you notice, unprotected wiring in an engine bay that run near unshielded exhaust will become brittle and its plastic loom wrap will break away much faster than other areas of the engine bay.
I heard that borax is also good wood treatment that makes it fire resistant, interesting to compare against the sodium silicate
neat trick.
Should be doing something useful with it soon!
Why did you use pine instead of other woods?Doesnt pine shim have resin in them which makes them easier to burn?
Probably, the test was more about the process of fireproofing rather than a fireproof end product. A less flammable/more dense wood would likely burn more slowly with the same process. Pine is just a very common building material here in the states for our "stick built" houses
I think PinkShield, company in Canada probably uses this.
They say it's acrylic paint whereas this treatment soaks into the wood. Might seem like splitting hairs, but there may be different chemical(s) used and effectiveness
interesting！ but I am still confused why does the 24hr one absorbs less NaSiO3 than the 12hr one?
I think that was a variable that wasn't accounted for. My theory is that the wood is already saturated at 12 hours
The part of the tree and how the grain lies relative to the cutting surface can have a huge impact on that
Is there a toxic/chemical smell or off gassing?
Not that I could tell. Sodium silicate does have a particular smell, but it is vastly overpowered by the smell of charring wood when testing. The foaming that you might notice when I pour molten aluminum on it in the sand casting video is mostly from the sodium silicate giving off water and the wood producing wood gas. In this video, sodium is being given off which you can tell by the yellow flames. With a torch, I was intentionally exceeding the temperature that this treatment works
Should have dried the wood before soaking in sodium silicate, not after
The shims are supposedly kiln dried, but they certainly could have absorbed some moisture from the air. Drying after the soak was necessary to ensure the water would not affect the test result
@@TenTries Yes sorry, you do still have to dry after as well, but I suggest drying beforehand as wood is decently hygroscopic and will absorb moisture from the air
wonder what will happen if charcoal coated with sodium silicate and pyrolyzed again maybe we can produce exotic ceramic like SiC🧐
Interesting idea! Maybe in an inert atmosphere...
full up conduit to make it fire proof